HOTEL DEALS

Buenos Aires at a Price That's Right

We've picked reliable, affordable places to stay in a wide variety of neighborhoods in Argentina's capital. Here are eight properties worth considering, from upscale hostels to apartment-style hotels.

Your dollars go far in Argentina for meals and shopping, but not for hotels. As bargain-seekers fly in to sample Buenos Aires's famous steaks, wine, and tango lessons, they may be surprised that hotels, as a general rule, aren't cheap.

Some booking strategies
Watch out for the value-added tax (VAT) of 21 percent. Some hotels leave it off their price sheets, while others include it as part of the published rate.

High season runs November through March, when swimming pools are especially in demand. Book a few months ahead for a choice spot. But that's about as far ahead as you may be able to reserve at many places. Double-digit inflation has kept some hoteliers from setting rates more than a few months in advance. Naturally, you'll want to verify all prices before you book.

For a longer stay, consider renting an apartment by the week. Reputable agencies, such as B y T Argentina, list hundreds of digs by price range and neighborhood.

Be aware of bargain-looking city hotels—albergues transitorios (or telos in local slang)—these charge by the hour and block all windows so straying spouses can keep a low profile. Look elsewhere for a traditional hotel experience.

Light sleepers should ask for a room away from the street, especially on bus routes. Buenos Aires may be the noisiest city in South America. Public buses with screechy brakes run 24 hours a day.

Buenos Aires's independent boutique hotels hit a sweet spot. They tend to be run out of renovated mansions and town houses bought at bargain prices during or after the financial crisis of 2001. The best ones offer a level of luxury and personalized service that's usually out of reach for bargain-minded travelers. You might pay as little as $120 to stay in an impeccably renovated 18th-century house. And you'll typically receive service that large, corporate-owned hotels can't provide.

Below is our boutique hotel–heavy list of places to stay in Buenos Aires from about $85 to $175 a night—along with a classy hostel for good measure. Cheaper lodgings can be found, but these properties are among the city's best values.

ART HOTEL
'Hood Recoleta/Barrio Norte, on a residential block with doctors' offices and sought-after apartment towers. Within a short walk of tourist must-sees, such as the Recoleta Cemetery (where Eva Perón is buried) and the fine-arts museum (Museo Nacional de Belles Artes).

First Impression Relaxed civility. The six-story 1929 town house has an art gallery and café on its ground floor and a sundeck on its roof. A whirlpool bath is open in warm weather, typically between December and March.

Rooms Thirty-five rooms are classified from "small & cozy" to "king." Elegant touches include canopied beds, wrought-iron work, French doors, and wood floors. Light sleepers may want to opt for the rooms in back, which are at a quiet remove from the street.

Plus A fine value in a desirable area—plus it packs personality. Nearby competitors tend to be in anonymous towers.

Minus Only the king rooms contain bathtubs, but not even kings have king-size beds: Queen-size beds are the largest ones here.

Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in the lobby.

Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa.

Details Azcuenaga 1268, 011-54/11-4821-4744, arthotel.com.ar, doubles from $95, including VAT.

Hotel Type Hotel.

Relevant Lifestyle Romance, Family-friendly.

Photos 1 of 4

AXEL HOTEL BUENOS AIRES
'Hood San Telmo, a densely packed historic neighborhood. Antique shops, church spires, and tango shows compete for your attention. Sotheby's "For Sale" signs in front of many buildings signal the area's gentrification.

First Impression Architecturally at odds with the well-preserved neighborhood, Axel Hotel is modern and angular. It's a self-proclaimed "heterofriendly" luxury hotel chain for gay travelers. The top-floor swimming pool has a glass bottom that gives an eyeful to people five stories below in the lobby. If you're not a fitness buff, you'll wish you were.

Rooms Most of the 48 rooms fall into two categories: "City" rooms provide views of the skyline (or of a parking lot, if you're unlucky) and "superior" rooms offer a view of Axel's second pool, which is surrounded by terraced sundecks in the style of an amphitheatre. All rooms are nearly soundproof. Clever wood sliding doors alternately conceal and reveal features in the compact rooms, blocking out, by turns, the sun or the closet, the bathtub or the minibar. A hydro-massage bathtub or shower is in each superior room, and a standard shower is in each city room. Interior glass walls leave a bather on display.

AFFORDABLE B.A.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Bungee cords make versatile travel accessories. They come in handy at the airport for lashing a duffel bag to a wheeled suitcase. They can be hooked together and used as a clothesline for swimsuits, towels, etc. On skiing trips, hook them onto ski boots to create carrying handles. While camping, use them to secure tarps, to suspend a lantern from a nearby tree limb, or to secure items in a canoe. They even hold your pants up if you misplace your belt.

— Keith Saul
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Tell me I'm not alone: Almost every time I park my car at the airport, I have trouble finding it when I return. (I even reported my car stolen once after searching for hours, only to discover I was in the wrong lot!) I now use my cell phone to leave myself a message as to where I've parked my car.

— Perry Babel
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Online check-in isn't just for airlines. After reserving an Alamo car over the Internet, I was offered online check-in just by entering my credit card number and driver's license information for approval. At the airport, following Alamo's instructions, I informed the shuttle-bus driver that I had checked in online and reserved an economy car. I was dropped off in the lot and told to pick whichever car I wanted. I drove it to the exit, where my credit card and driver's license were verified on the computer, and I was done.

— Brad Cook
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Pack a travel-size shampoo container refilled with detergent and a one-gallon Ziploc bag for when you need to wash hosiery, bras, and other delicate undergarments. Put a few drops of detergent into the bag and fill it part way with water. Place the garment in the bag, close it up, and shake it around for a few minutes. Instant washing machine! For larger pieces of clothing, I've used the plastic laundry bags supplied at most hotels. Just hold on to the open end tightly.

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When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
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Use an empty M&M's Minis tube to carry quarters. The top holds tightly, but still pops open easily enough, and the size is perfect to slip into a car door or bag. I find it very useful when traveling by car (for tolls and parking meters) and by airplane (for luggage carts or newspapers).

— Judi McDowell
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I prefer laminated city maps because I can circle all the things I want to see in a given day with a dark erasable marker. Once I have everything marked, I plan my route and start walking. The next day, I erase the previous day's marks and begin all over again.

— Sandy Hughes
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My husband and I travel to out-of-the-way towns where rural roads can be hard to navigate. We use a handheld GPS (Global Positioning System) to mark the spot where we're staying, the main highway turnoffs, and, most important, the turns to unmarked side roads. When we're back-tracking and arrive again at confusing intersections, we whip out our GPS and immediately know which route to take home.

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I work for a major airline and can attest to this tip for redirecting lost luggage. Place a copy of your itinerary--including contact info for where you're staying--inside your checked suitcase. If name and flight tags are missing, we'll still know where your bag needs to go.

— Michelle Keonig
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Paper place mats can be useful anywhere there's an outdoor shower. By stepping onto a place mat after a bush shower in Botswana, I managed to keep my feet clean and avoided getting dirt in my clothes.

— Sandy S. Hogan
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Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

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If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

— Jean Schwinn
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If you're planning to use an ATM abroad, make sure the money you need is in your checking account, because some foreign ATMs don't allow access to savings accounts. And remember to carry your bank's local phone number with you; 800 numbers generally don't work overseas.

— Donna Johnson
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Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

— Terry Clemson
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I've saved lots of money using AAA. In addition to providing excellent roadside services (help with stalled cars, lost keys, etc.), most AAA chapters offer discounted tickets to Disney World and a preferred parking pass that enables you to grab specially designated spots near the entrances. It's a dollar saver, and you don't have to walk far or take the trolley in the parks!

— Judy Small
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When I called to book a hotel room in Budapest, I was offered a rate of $75 per night. After I told the concierge that I was looking for a room in the $35 range, he agreed to the lower price without much fuss. It sometimes pays to barter.

— Julie Jensen
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For fire-safety reasons, cabins don't have their own irons. Don't wait until the last minute to tackle your evening wardrobe. You can find shared irons down the hall in the laundry room, but lines often form before mealtimes. Opt for off-hours (like mornings).

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When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
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The best carry-on bag that I've found is a gardener's tote. It has lots of pockets on the outside and room inside for a medium-size purse, yet it's small enough to sit comfortably at my feet on a bus or plane.

— Sheila Monk
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Some people think that traveler's checks aren't necessary anymore, but they really can be useful in a variety of situations. My ATM card wouldn't work on Easter Island, where most restaurants did not accept credit cards and wanted to be paid in pesos. Luckily, our hotel cashed my traveler's checks and gave me the pesos I needed. On Dominica, my purse was stolen. But because I had traveler's checks stashed away in my luggage, the vacation wasn't ruined. I always travel with what I call the "trusty four": American dollars (lots of ones and fives divided up and hidden in several locations), traveler's checks, an ATM card, and a credit card.

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Anyone tired of the same boring postcards that are found at every roadside tourist trap should try shopping for vintage postcards at an antiques shop. They're a great addition to any photo album, as they often show what the local attractions looked like prior to development.

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Ziploc now makes extra-large bags with handles. They're nearly two feet by two feet, and although Ziploc advertises them as being good for storage, they're also useful for traveling. Bring one on long shopping excursions and then use it as an extra carry-on for souvenirs on the way home.

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Don't assume a single room costs less than a double one. I booked a hotel in Spain online and noticed that rates were the same whether I booked a single or a double, but the single was much smaller and its bathroom had only a small shower stall and no tub.

— Don Carne
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Avoid spills in your Dopp kit. Cut up plastic grocery bags into little squares and place them under the tops of toiletries to prevent leaks. Discard the squares upon arrival, but bring extras for the trip back.

— Roland Zuniga
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— John Rybczyk
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Carry the exact change for public transportation. In Venice, we were annoyed when a vaporetto (water taxi) ticket-taker refused to give us our change. Later, we discovered that if you don't have the exact fare, ticket agents make no promises about giving change.

— Dana Hunting
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If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
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Driving around Italy last summer, my husband and I found that even the most detailed maps left us scratching our heads in confusion. Desperate and lost, we decided to follow a tour bus. Guess what? It got us exactly where we wanted to go.

— Cindy Marcus
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My husband and I create personal cards (like business cards) before we leave home. We put our name, address, phone, and email address on them, as well as a picture of us. How many people have gotten home from a trip, looked at a slip of paper with a name and address, and wondered, Who is this? The picture helps link a name to a face.

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If you're a woman traveling alone, or your accommodations don't inspire confidence, simply wedge a small rubber doorstop at the base of the door when you're inside the room. It'll be virtually impossible to open the door from the outside.

— Kimberly Milne-Fowler

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