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DREAM TRIPS 2009

Party at the World Cup

The best soccer teams on earth. One solid month of fleet-footed action in South Africa. Who wouldn't want to be among the paint-smeared fans?
By Mark Aiken, March 2009 issue |

There are sports fans, and then there are soccer fans. Every four years, when the best soccer teams on the planet go cleat-to-cleat in the World Cup, legions of their frenzied followers, decked out in wigs, wacky costumes, and clown makeup, turn the stands into a rollicking carnival.

"The atmosphere is absolutely electric," says Jim Doykos, a snowboarding instructor who traveled to Massachusetts and New Jersey for games when the World Cup was held stateside in 1994. "Everyone's singing and waving flags."

France's Florent Malouda (in white) is brought down by an Italian rival in the 2006 World Cup final, which Italy won (Alex Livesey/Getty Images) [enlarge photo]
(Map by Nicholas Felton) [enlarge photo]

Doykos is no newbie to major sports events—he's been to the Super Bowl, the World Series, and the NBA Finals. "None of them," he says, "match the unbridled enthusiasm, the craziness that I experienced watching soccer."

When the 2010 World Cup kicks off in Johannesburg, it will be blazing uncharted territory: Never before has the tournament been held in Africa. Not surprisingly, South Africans are beyond thrilled to be hosting an estimated half- million visitors, particularly given the isolation the country suffered during apartheid. (South Africa was banned from the World Cup and the Olympics until 1992, after the white-minority government ended apartheid.)

After the tournament opens on June 11, 2010, the 32 teams play 48 round-robin games in nine cities—the locations are on the map at left. Then the competition moves into high-stakes mode: The top 16 teams meet in single-elimination matches, followed by the quarterfinals and semifinals. The final will be held on July 11 in Johannesburg in front of an expected crowd of 90,000—and a worldwide television audience of nearly a billion.

Of course, you can't join the painted bodies in the stands without a ticket, and obtaining one is not quite as simple as going to Ticketmaster's website. Because of the tremendous demand, as well as concerns about counterfeiting, FIFA (Fédération Internationale de Football Association, the organization that runs the World Cup) is selling tickets in several phases on its website, fifa.com. The first session started February 20 and runs to the end of March; subsequent sale dates had yet to be announced at press time.

To order, submit your name, passport number, e-mail address, and the matches you hope to see. Some tickets will be sold on a first-come, first-serve basis; the rest will be doled out through a lottery, and FIFA will notify the winners by e-mail at the end of each sale. If you're lucky, you then pay online, and the various venues in South Africa will hold your tickets until the matches. If your name doesn't come up, you can keep trying in future lotteries—and hope that the soccer gods are on your side.

As in all stadium sports, tickets are priced according to desirability. Category 1 and 2 seats, the most expensive at $120 to $160 apiece for the round-robin games, are on the sidelines, where the views are best. Category 3 tickets are behind the goals, a slightly less advantageous place to sit, but close to the field. These are the cheapest passes available to foreigners, running from $80 for the opening round up to $400 for the final game. Only South Africans can buy Category 4 tickets, high in the rafters, starting at a bargain rate of $20.

Since most fans traveling all the way to South Africa will want to take in more than one game, FIFA also sells special follow-your-team packages, which include tickets to three opening-round matches and guaranteed admission to at least one elimination game. You don't save by buying the package; the incentive is the certainty of getting a ticket to a later-round match.

But the soccer is only part of the experience—the celebrations always carry on into the night. When South Korea upset Spain at home in the 2002 quarterfinals, American Andrew Ullman says he danced in drum circles in the streets and threw back shots of soju until the sun rose. "It felt like I had landed at the biggest party in the world," he says.

Teams to Watch

Brazil
The most celebrated squad in the world: Brazil has won five World Cups—the most of any country—and is home to legendary Pelé and current superstar Ronaldo.

Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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