ROAD TRIP

Belles on the Bayou

Reader Eliana Osborn and her friend were psyched for the zydeco music and plantations of Cajun country. But who knew they'd soon be eating alligator?

Rosedown Plantation
Rosedown Plantation (Chris Granger)

DAY 1

When Jenny and I were roommates in London 10 years ago, we vagabonded around Europe and laughed our way through sketchy hotels, impossible-to-follow directions, and more than one visit to a foreign hospital. Since then, we've both married and had kids, and we now live 700 miles apart—she's an English teacher in Utah, I'm a stay-at-home mom in Yuma, Ariz. We were due for another grand adventure. We'd been longing to see the old South, so we set our sights on sultry southern Louisiana.

We kick off the trip at Baton Rouge's Capitol Park, a cluster of green spaces and government buildings in the heart of downtown. Sandra at the Welcome Center gives us our first big hit of Southern hospitality, sending us on our way with maps, a local's perspective on politics (Governor Bobby Jindal is "young and good-looking"), and food recommendations. The self-guided tour of the area—about a mile square—seems just our speed: I'm four months pregnant and not moving quickly.

The 34-story Louisiana State Capitol building is famous for being the tallest state capitol in the U.S. It was here that senator and presidential hopeful Huey Long was assassinated in 1935—one of the bullet holes is still visible in a marble pillar. At the observation deck on the 27th floor, Jenny and I stare out at a lot of riverboat casinos. But what's impressive to us desert Westerners is the size of the Mississippi River. I live in a place that gets just a few inches of rain a year, so this looks like an awful lot of water.

Across the capitol grounds is the new Louisiana State Museum, its mirrored-glass façade a nice contrast to the capitol building's art deco design. Jenny and I are particularly intrigued by the full-size shrimp boat, à la Forrest Gump, and the collection of memorabilia that details how native son Louis Armstrong went from juvenile delinquent to U.S. jazz ambassador. Our next stop, a few blocks away, is the Old Louisiana State Capitol, where we marvel at the stained-glass dome until we're dizzy. Back outside, we're blanketed by the humidity; it's time to head to Sandra's top recommendation.

Poor Boy Lloyd's is the real thing: People are spilling in from the surrounding office buildings. We order boiled-shrimp po'boys at the counter, snag the last table, and savor the air-conditioning. When our sandwiches arrive, they're overflowing with fresh, juicy shrimp, and we're happy campers; if only we'd ordered the plate-size onion rings.

Jenny is intent on seeing alligators and wangles me into a tourist trap I wouldn't ordinarily go for: a sunset swamp cruise out of Prairieville. Our Alligator Bayou Swamp Tours adventure starts on land with a feeding demonstration of baby snapping turtles and alligators. Then we move on to a walkway and watch the big gators. The largest, Elvis, is more than 14 feet long, and even though I know he has no interest in me, that wide-open mouth is still scary. Our time on the swamp is my favorite part; the trees look haunting in the fading light. As we try to spot wildlife, I get Jenny excited by telling her I think I see a deer. When it turns out to be only a large dog, she nearly pushes me overboard.

It takes us about an hour to drive to Pointe Coupee Bed & Breakfast, in New Roads, where we're spending the night. After we check in, husband-and-wife owners

Jim and Sam McVea shoo us out the door so we can get to their favorite restaurant, Ma Mama's Kitchen, before it closes. The food is worth the rush: seafood gumbo, softshell crabs, and something magical called seafood boulettes, crab and shrimp cakes served over a spicy risotto. Back at the B&B, we feel like we're staying in grandma's spare room, with straw hats, framed lace, and more floral patterns than I can count.

LODGING
Pointe Coupee Bed & Breakfast
405 Richey St., New Roads, 800/832-7412, manornetworks.com, $145

FOOD
Poor Boy Lloyd's
201 Florida St., Baton Rouge, 225/387-2271, po'boy $6

Ma Mama's Kitchen
124 W. Main St., New Roads, 225/618-2424, entrées from $12

ACTIVITIES

Louisiana State Capitol
State Capitol Dr., Baton Rouge, 225/342-7317, free

Louisiana State MuseumBaton Rouge
660 N. Fourth St., Baton Rouge, 225/342-5428, lsm.crt.state.la.us, $6

Old Louisiana State Capitol
100 North Blvd., Baton Rouge, 800/488-2968, free

Alligator Bayou Swamp Tours
35019 Alligator Bayou Rd., Prairieville, 888/379-2677, alligatorbayou.com, from $27

SULTRY SOUTHERN LOUISIANA

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
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When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

— Kelly Christensen
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Turn off your fridge's icemaker before you leave home. And remember to empty the ice cube bin. The power was out for several days while I was away recently. When I got back, the melted ice had refrozen throughout the freezer compartment. It took forever to clean up.

— Mary C. Clements
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Consider asking your driver or tour guide to haggle on your behalf at bazaars and souks. (But don't let them lead you to places where they might have a connection to the shopkeeper.) The money you tip them will usually be less than the markup on prices for tourists.

— Rami Aboumahadi
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Try getting a discount on your hotel room by offering to pay in cash. A hotel reservationist suggested this approach when I phoned to reserve at a hotel in London. I asked if the hotel could grant a discount based on my AARP or AAA membership, as many hotels do in the United States. Her response was that the only discount she was able to offer was 10 percent if I paid in cash.

— Joan Nikelsky
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If your tablecloth is wet at dinner, you should prepare for rough seas. Restaurant staffers have been known to slightly dampen the tablecloth to keep plates and glasses from sliding.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

— Carol Muth
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Rather than risk losing your department-store credit cards and club-membership cards, you should really leave them behind when you go somewhere you won't need them. Your purse or wallet will be lighter and your worries fewer.

— George Bracken
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The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

— Audrey Ting
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To find a reasonably priced villa or apartment to rent, try going directly to the owner through a site such as abritel.fr. (Click on the British flag for English.) I arranged to spend two weeks in an apartment in Brittany and one week in an apartment in the Loire Valley, all for a total of $800.

— Suzanne Maurice-Roberts
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If you start to feel a painful blister coming on, put some lip balm or Vaseline on the hot spot--it'll help stop the rubbing.

— Donna Benesch
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A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

— Susan Day
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While traveling, I love to send postcards to friends--and also to myself. I get the best photo postcard of the place I visited and write down what I did there as a reminder. When I get home, I tape them in my travel journals so I can flip back and forth between the photo and the reverie.

— Kimberly Morgan
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In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

— Winston Wong
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When buying bottled water, look at the bottle cap to see if the seal is still intact. While visiting the Acropolis on a very hot day this summer, I caught a young boy refilling empty water bottles from a tap and recapping them. He was then selling the bottles to thirsty tourists.

— Alice Atkinson
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We rented a car last summer to tour northern Italy. Initially, we contacted Europcar (europcar.com) and got a quote of more than $500. We then clicked on a rental-car link from Best Fares (bestfares.com) and received an offer that knocked off about $50. When we mentioned to Europcar that we'd seen lower offers on the Web, they told us that if we sent them the URL and they could verify the offer, they'd match it. We eventually found a car that was an additional $100 cheaper from a British company. Europcar-which offered better service for our itinerary-accepted that lower price, saving us $150.

— Marcia Meyer
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To find the perfect destination with airfare that meets your budget, try Travelocity's Dream Maps travel tool (travelocity.com). Select a maximum fare and a type of destination (city, national park, etc.) and the Web site will display a variety of trips matching that description.

— Matt Vance
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When I travel for business, I usually tack on a few extra days to do something active like hike in a nearby national park. I find that by taking two small suitcases instead of a single large one, I stay better organized and less burdened. I keep my business clothes, papers, and laptop in one bag and hiking clothes and gear in another. I leave the suitcase I'm not using at the time in the rental car and easily carry the lightweight case with the equipment and clothes I need into my hotel.

— Ellen Worthing
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Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

— Nina Gormley
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I don't go anywhere without individual packets of antibacterial wipes. I slip some in my carry-on, daypack, and shirt pocket. They're very convenient when you can't find any running water with which to wash your hands. And because they're antibacterial, they're also great for cleaning cuts, and the alcohol from the wipes helps stop the itching when you rub them on insect bites.

— Lawrence Brenner
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Lightweight, washable, and multifunctional, a cotton sarong is an easy and practical addition to every traveler's don't-leave-home-without-it bag! I've used mine as a swimsuit cover-up, as a picnic blanket on the grounds of a château in the Loire Valley, as a temporary skirt (over my shorts) in a Bangkok temple, and as an extra pillow while hiking the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. It's also handy as an airplane blanket, emergency towel, or tablecloth.

— Nicole Serafica
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Attach a few carabiners--the kind of clips rock climbers use--to the top of your wheeled suitcase. Purses, cameras, and shopping bags can be clipped to your suitcase, giving your hands and shoulders a rest while you're walking around the airport.

— Kathryn Murphy
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If your children are old enough to dress themselves, consider this packing tip: Put each outfit (including socks and underwear) into a Ziploc bag and pack one bag for each day you'll be on vacation. It will save both time and aggravation, and may even prevent items from getting left behind.

— Robert E. Jones
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When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

— Alice Fraser
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I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

— Dr. Cornelia Cho
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By starting a blog for each trip--at blogger.com, among others--you can keep your friends and family up-to-date on your adventures. All you need is an Internet café to add entries and photos while you're on the road.

— Alan A. Lew
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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
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Hotels
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The magnets you use on a refrigerator will also stick well to most hotel and motel room doors, turning them into makeshift bulletin boards. Post theater tickets, itineraries, reminder notes, and any other useful information, then grab what you need before you leave the room for the day.

— Karen Hartz
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On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

— Aaron Lisle
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Shopping
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Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber

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