ROAD TRIP

A Low-Key Drive in Florida

Strung together by bridges and causeways like an unclasped necklace, the Florida Keys transport you back to a mellower way of life, filled with Key lime pie, scruffy beaches, and odd birds of all stripes.

Seven Mile Bridge—it's actually 6.79 miles long—is one of 42 bridges that connect the Florida Keys (M. Timothy O'Keefe/Alamy)

Living in Miami Beach, Fla., undeniably has its charms, but sometimes I need a break from international supermodels and Armani-clad valets. Luckily for me, only 50 miles south there's a time machine to an older, quieter Florida, where the only glitz is the sun's reflection on the silvery scales of the tarpon.

Home to an odd mix of rednecks, hippies, and people committed to wearing fishing vests every day instead of ties or panty hose, the Florida Keys have a loose, unpretentious vibe. Too many tourists hurtle through them on the four- to five-hour drive between the discos of South Beach and the bars of Key West. But I prefer slower going.

The road itself, the Overseas Highway (U.S. 1), is one of the biggest draws—a mostly two-laner that stretches southwest 125 miles over dozens of islands until it reaches mile zero in Key West. The Atlantic is on your left, the Gulf of Mexico is on the right, and spectacular vistas of turquoise sea and emerald vegetation are all around.

As I cross Card Sound Road, the prettier of the two gateways from the mainland, my most pressing issue is where to eat. The majority of restaurants in the Keys are of the Tiki Shack school of architecture—that is, when they don't look like auto body shops. But what matters is the local fish: fried, grilled, jerked, or variously dusted and encrusted. I opt for the Pilot House Marina & Restaurant in Key Largo, a classic waterfront joint with a glass-bottomed deck (13 Seagate Blvd., pilothousemarina.com, fish sandwiches from $9). While I nosh on my blackened-grouper sandwich, I see a barracuda lurking like a Mafia don underneath my feet. The waitress tells me a mother and baby manatee were spotted a few days earlier.

Islamorada, a town occupying five islands about halfway to Key West, makes a perfect weekend base. The 25-room Pines & Palms Resort, a collection of whitewashed cottages on a private beach, gets the Keys atmosphere just right: laid-back, unfussy, and all about enjoying the outdoors (MM 80.4, pinesandpalms.com, rooms from $99).

I love the access to wildlife in the Keys, from curious dolphins to small Key deer that will eat carrots out of your hand. The next morning I head for the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center, a sanctuary for injured wild birds (MM 93.6, 305/852-4486, entry by donation). The open-air center is a mini Galápagos. Most of the birds are uncaged, and one pelican is so mellow that he lets me stroke his tail feathers like he's a lap cat. A yellow-crowned night heron perches near a sign explaining that he has returned annually to the same spot since his rehab there 13 years ago, the ornithological equivalent of a Cheers regular with his own bar stool.

Rather than wait for the birds' 3:30 p.m. feeding time, I drive 12 miles south to Ma's Fish Camp for my own lunch. I've been hearing buzz that the year-old Ma's is an upstart contender for the best-Key-lime-pie tiara, and I can see why (105 Palm Ave., Islamorada, 305/517-9611, slice of pie $5). Ma's pie has a pale, silky, tart lime heart, a graham cracker crust, and a high hat of slightly burnt meringue. The chef, Barbara Cockerham, says that unlike some of her competitors, she doesn't tinker much with the classic recipe. "A Key lime pie is not supposed to be frozen," she says with a shudder. "Or topped with Cool Whip. Or green."

To work the pie off, I rent a kayak at Robbie's Marina, four miles farther south, and paddle about 30 minutes to Lignumvitae Key Botanical State Park, where I navigate past tangled tunnels of mangrove and gumbo-limbo trees—which locals call tourist trees because of their red, peeling bark (MM 77.5, robbies.com, kayak rental $50 per day).

There's still time for a walk before dinner, and I see a free parking spot at Anne's Beach, a scruffy-but-secluded stretch of sand at MM 73. Like most beaches on a road where you can often see the whole island in your peripheral vision, Anne's is tiny. And this being the Keys, it's not without a few eccentrics. At one point during my stroll, I look up to see an old guy in a thong, sunbathing standing up.

As the day draws to a close, I drive back north (the setting sun behind me—beware late afternoon driving in the other direction), bound for my favorite restaurant, whose name, Marker 88, guarantees you'll always find it (marker88.info, cocktails from $8). I settle into a glider swing and sip a blood-orange margarita while the color-coordinated sunset slides down the Gulf.

WHEN TO GO

Anytime. Even in low season (August to October), temperatures are in the 80s and the water is bathtub-warm. You'll get the best combo of prices and weather from April to June.

WHAT TO PACK

Even your most scuffed-up flip-flops won't be too casual.

GETTING AROUND

Locals refer to highway mile markers (MM) rather than physical addresses when giving directions.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
Follow Us!

Booking Tool

Check Current Prices

  1. Hotels
  2. Flights
  3. Cars
  4. Cruises

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Travel Tips

Tagged
Technology
367274

I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

— France Freeman
Tagged
Packing
331286

Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

— Nancy Norman
Tagged
Packing
317266

Before I embark on a trip, I cover the dirt of my potted plants with plastic bags after watering them well. (Cut a few slits in the bags and keep plants out of direct sunlight.) The soil will stay damp for about three weeks.

— Jean Walsh
Tagged
Packing
324257

Whenever my husband and I get new pairs of eyeglasses, we relegate the old ones to our luggage, along with an inexpensive repair kit from the drugstore. If something happens while we're away from home, we can hopefully fix the glasses ourselves. If they're beyond saving, we have the backup pairs to get us through the rest of the trip.

— Carol Alabaster
Tagged
Shopping
343259

If you plan to buy crafts in a country where bargaining is expected, use the time it takes for luggage to be unloaded to scope out the airport stores. Jot down items you like and their retail prices. If you find a similar item while touring the country, you have a top-end bargaining point. If you don't find the object at a better price, you can always pick it up at the airport while you're waiting for your flight home.

— Deborah Seter
Tagged
Air Travel
356260

On international flights, I used to fumble through my belongings--often having to retrieve them from the overhead bin--after a flight attendant appeared with customs and immigration forms. (I don't know of many people who have their passport's number and date of issue memorized.) Now I write all that info on the bookmark of whatever I plan to read on the long flight so I don't have to dig out my passport. I can fill out the card quickly--giving me more time to loan my pen to all the people who never seem to carry one.

— Bill Serues
Tagged
Hotels
347256

If you make a hotel reservation online and then cancel online, print out and save the cancellation confirmation for at least two billing cycles past your trip. After our vacation, I found a "no-show" charge on my credit card for a room that I'd canceled well in advance. Without the confirmation, I had no way to contest the bill.

— Karen Griffith-Hedberg
Tagged
Car Rentals
338244

You won't always save by bringing the rental car back early. Alamo has an early-return policy at all of its locations, designed to discourage customers from returning cars early. If you show up at the lot a day or two ahead of schedule, Alamo will recalculate what you owe them at the daily rate; if it turns out to be less than what you would have paid for the week, they'll charge a $15 fee. Yet another reason to read the fine print on your contract carefully!

— Beth Ann Finster
Tagged
Transportation
343255

Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

— Carol P. McCrea
Tagged
Loyalty Programs
347251

After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

— Carol Muth
Tagged
Planning
346253

Save major bucks by going onto eBay and purchasing coupons and gift certificates that others don't want or can't use for lodging, transportation, food, and admissions. I've found great discounts for airline and Amtrak tickets; car rentals; entrance to amusement parks such as SeaWorld, Disney, or Universal Studios; as well as overnights at many hotels. For example, I bought a $30 savings coupon at SeaWorld for only $1. Simply search for your destination and then type in "coupon" or "gift certificate."

— Nathaniel V. Greenwood
Tagged
Photography
352279

Disposable-camera lenses scratch just like any other lens would. Place a small piece of painter's tape (or another kind that won't stick too much) over the lens to protect it from contact with other items in your purse or backpack during travel.

— Hugo Scherzberg
Tagged
Technology
379269

Download the most up-to-date airline schedules from the individual airline Web sites to your PDA before you leave home. Should you encounter a delay or cancellation at the airport, you'll have all the information needed to find another flight quickly.

— Neal Green
Tagged
Planning
358241

Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

— John Nechman
Tagged
Cruises
389305

Some cruise lines offer discounts on a future sailing if you book it while on a current cruise. Back home, you can transfer the booking to your travel agent and work with them to try to lower the price even further. You'll be able to cancel your booking at no cost if you follow the cruise line's cancellation schedule. This is a great way to get some of your onboard expenses paid for in advance.

— Jeff Putel
Tagged
Family Travel
354247

When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
Tagged
Hotels
395337

If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
Tagged
Packing
361265

Bring your own linens. They're useful in a million different ways. Obviously a soft cotton pillowcase makes those scratchy airplane pillows bearable, but it can also be used to gather loose items when deplaning. A nice sheet will cover up an ugly bedspread or sofa, and makes a great tablecloth or picnic blanket.

— Dori Egan
Tagged
Cruises
360306

If your vacation spot is a major port of call for cruise ships, plan excursions for the days that the ships aren't docked. Tours will be less crowded, and you'll get to see and do a lot more.

— Krista Fowles
Tagged
Packing
331255

My husband and I are retired, and we take two trips abroad each year. When unpacking, I put items we use repeatedly on each trip (flashlight, alarm clock, travel-size toiletries, etc.) into a box and keep it stored near the suitcases. No more searching or trying to remember if I've got everything for the next journey—it's all in one place.

— Mary Meikle
Tagged
Air Travel
318246

Don't settle for the first answer to your travel question. If you need flight information, it's a good idea to phone the airline more than once and ask the same question. Recently, I wanted to see if I could fly standby on an earlier flight the same day. The first time I called, I was told that the earlier flight was booked. The second time, however, an agent said there were in fact seats available, and I could certainly fly standby. In the end, not only was I able to get on the flight, but I was upgraded to first class.

— Lynn Babcock
Tagged
Planning
340241

Don't be too quick to grab one of those GST tax-rebate envelopes that are everywhere in Canadian airports. The envelopes look official, but they're really from companies that process the request for you and often pocket 15 percent or more. Instead, go to the Canada Revenue Agency Web site (cra-arc.gc.ca), download the Application for Visitor Tax Refund, and then file the request yourself. Your check will arrive in a few weeks. Just remember to get your receipt stamped by the Canada Border Services Agency at the airport.

— Tony Reynolds
Tagged
Safety
416309

We all know to avoid drinking tap water in certain countries, but remember to forgo ice cubes, too. I've started bringing along two ice trays, which I fill with bottled water and freeze in my hotel room's mini-fridge.

— Christa Babel
Tagged
Shopping
312225

When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

— Alice Fraser
Tagged
Family Travel
350273

Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

— Chandra Huang
Tagged
Technology
378303

Destinationcoupons.com supplies free discount coupons for cities all over the United States and the world. Print them out on your home computer and save on hotels, shows, rental cars, restaurants, and many other activities.

— Donald Bertolet
Tagged
Photography
346258

Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
Tagged
Packing
408590

Before I visit poorer countries, I pop into a thrift store and pick up some toys, stuffed animals, and an old suitcase or carryall. I try to avoid toys like Easter bunnies or Santas, which could be offensive, and expensive things that might embarrass parents. The contents of my extra bag bring joy to countless kids who have never had a thing.

— Ingrid Newkirk
Tagged
Hotels
401352

Before you buy expensive bottled water from your hotel room minibar, head to the fitness center. You'll be able to fill up an empty bottle at the gym's water cooler or fountain for free, and you don't need to break a sweat.

— Amanda Geraci
Tagged
Planning
340256

Scuba-diving vacations can get expensive. As I start planning a trip, I call one of the local PADI dive shops and ask the employees about accommodations nearby. They give me hotel connections I couldn't find on my own, and I often save enough to pay for my dives.

— Lyle Bennett

Custom Search

Select the details relevant to your trip to see a list of articles that match your needs — it's the best way to get ideas!
SELECT YOUR DESTINATION
SELECT YOUR ACTIVITIES