COOL OFF

The Inside Scoop on Rome's Gelato

Where do Romans go for a cup? A local food writer steers us beyond tourist favorites to six artisanal gelaterias churning out creative, all-natural flavors.

Stefano Marcotulli, a former pastry chef, and his wife, Silvia, use only the finest seasonal ingredients at Gelateria del Teatro, on a side street off via dei Coronari. Lemons from Amalfi, pistachios from Sicily, and hazelnuts from Piedmont are translated perfectly into creamy, flavorful gelati. The couple's creative side comes out in combinations like sage with raspberries, and dark chocolate with Nero d'Avola, a Sicilian red wine. Ask to peek through the Plexiglas into the back room where it's all made. And if the weather's not too hot, savor your finished product at one of the outdoor tables. Via di San Simone 70, Centro Storico/Piazza Navona neighborhood, 011-39/06-4547-4880, summer weekdays 11 a.m.midnight, weekends until 1a.m. (hours change seasonally), from $2.50 (2).

Piazza Venezia, where tourist hordes dodge whizzing traffic, is the last place in Rome you would expect to find exceptional gelato. But Giancarlo Corona's Gelateria Ara Coeli delivers just that. All the flavors here are seasonal and prepared without artificial ingredients, with a range from classics like chocolate and hazelnut to the more unusual lime with celery, and raspberry with star anise. The shop's semifreddi, semi-frozen custard treats, are like little works of art in a cup. Although Giancarlo will likely hand over his place to new owners at the end of 2010, his daughters will carry the family torch at their Gelateria Corona in Largo Argentina (opposite the busy tram stop in Largo Arenula 27). Piazza Ara Coeli 9/10 on the southwest corner of Piazza Venezia, Centro Storico/Piazza Venezia, 011-39/06-679-5085, gelateriaaracoeli.com, daily 11 a.m.11 p.m., from $2.50 (2).

Take a number at the entrance of Gelateria dei Gracchi's Prati location—just a few blocks south of the Lepanto Metro stop—and prepare to be wowed by some truly innovative flavors, like apple cinnamon, coffee with star anise, and meringue with ground pistachio. Bonbons, a house specialty, are displayed in stacks near the gelato case. As an added bonus, Gelateria dei Gracchi also serves gluten- and lactose-free versions. Via dei Gracchi 272, Prati, 011-39/06-321-6668; viale Regina Margherita 212, Prati, 011-39/06-8535-3508; via Tuscolana 251, Tuscolana, 011-39/06-785-6622; open daily noon10 p.m., from $2.50 (2).

It's easy to overlook Fior di Luna, a quiet shop on a busy street in Trastevere that prides itself on serving certified organic gelato made with fair-trade ingredients. This near-obsessive commitment to quality explains the cups-only policy: Fior di Luna frowns on the industrial production of cones. Fill your cup with the peanut butter gelato—almost unheard of in Italy—and pair it with any of their half-dozen varieties of chocolate. From October to Easter, the gelateria also makes its own chocolate bars. Via della Lungaretta 96, Trastevere, 011-39/06-6456-1314, fiordiluna.com, Tues.Sun. noon1a.m., from $2 (1.50).

Maria Agnese Spagnuolo opened the first Gelateria Fatamorgana in northern Rome and has since expanded to a slightly more-central location in Prati. Her flavors are whimsical and one of a kind: Kentucky is a blend of tobacco, cinnamon, and dark chocolate, while Panacea combines mint, almond, and ginseng. Fatamorgana serves about 60 varieties that change seasonally, although you can count on around 10 or so chocolate options year-round. Via di Lago di Lesina 9/11, Salaria, 011-39/06-8639-1589; via G. Bettolo 7, Prati, 011-39/06-8639-1589; gelateriafatamorgana.it, daily noon11 p.m., from $2 (1.50).

In a piazza just off the posh via del Corso, Ciampini is an old-school Roman café that sticks to traditional Roman flavors like hazelnut, pistachio, stracciatella (chocolate chip), and marron glacé (candied chestnut), the house specialty. The result of decades of experience is an incomparably creamy and rich gelato that attracts serious crowds of locals in the summer. Pay for your gelato at the register, and then take your receipt to the back where you can choose from the flavors listed on engraved brass plates behind the counter. Be prepared to answer the barista's question: "Panna?" (whipped cream?). You can beat the queue at the counter by grabbing a table outside, but you'll pay about double for table service. Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 29, Centro Storico/Corso, 011-39/06-687-6606 . ciampini.net, open daily 9 a.m.9 p.m., from $3.20 (2.50).

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 

Article Comments

Please log in to post comments/ratings

Rate this article

Comment on this article

(Limit 5000 characters / 5000 characters remaining)

Overall Rating:

Follow Us!

Booking Tool

Check Current Prices

  1. Hotels
  2. Flights
  3. Cars
  4. Cruises

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Travel Tips

Tagged
Air Travel
365260

Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

— Sherill Hacker
Tagged
Packing
385250

Put a few plastic trash bags in the outer pockets of your suitcases and carry-ons. If you arrive at your destination and it's raining, you can cover your luggage with the bags while you make your way to your hotel. Just cut a slit for handles or straps.

— Barbara Gesse
Tagged
Transportation
358251

In Europe, my husband and I like to use public transportation. As a result, we frequently find ourselves studying itineraries displayed on train station walls, trying to read schedules posted at bus stops, or staring at kiosk-size town maps. On our last trip, my husband snapped digital photographs of those things. We were able to take the map or itinerary with us and could refer to it as needed by using the zoom feature.

— Anne Supsic
Tagged
Packing
354251

Pack a travel-size shampoo container refilled with detergent and a one-gallon Ziploc bag for when you need to wash hosiery, bras, and other delicate undergarments. Put a few drops of detergent into the bag and fill it part way with water. Place the garment in the bag, close it up, and shake it around for a few minutes. Instant washing machine! For larger pieces of clothing, I've used the plastic laundry bags supplied at most hotels. Just hold on to the open end tightly.

— Erika Kumada
Tagged
Technology
417278

When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
Tagged
Car Rentals
382259

When renting a car, photograph any damage the car may have before leaving the rental agency; a digital camera records the date and time of each picture. On a recent trip to Argentina, I rented a car with extensive paint damage. When I returned the car, the agency attempted to blame me for the scratches. I showed them my photographs, and they rescinded their accusations.

— Richard L. Garcia
Tagged
Dining
361255

In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

— Winston Wong
Tagged
Car Rentals
362252

You won't always save by bringing the rental car back early. Alamo has an early-return policy at all of its locations, designed to discourage customers from returning cars early. If you show up at the lot a day or two ahead of schedule, Alamo will recalculate what you owe them at the daily rate; if it turns out to be less than what you would have paid for the week, they'll charge a $15 fee. Yet another reason to read the fine print on your contract carefully!

— Beth Ann Finster
Tagged
Packing
450627

I started saving the heavy-duty plastic wrappers that sheets and curtains come in. Most have zippers or snaps, great to hold everything from toiletries to shoes to wet swimsuits. And I bet airport security must love them because they're see-through.

— Terry Schmieder
Tagged
Safety
439300

A simple but effective anti-pickpocketing measure is to fasten a safety pin across the opening of the pants pocket on the inside. Leave enough room to pull your wallet out with some effort, but not enough for a quick hand to lift it in a second or two.

— Rusty Cartmill
Tagged
Hotels
445327

Even if you're staying at a standard resort hotel, take advantage of the day passes sold by many all-inclusive resorts (i.e., the right to use their facilities--such as swimming pools and beach chairs--and enjoy their meals for a day). The passes are primarily designed for cruise passengers on day trips but can be obtained by anyone for very little money. For persons staying in a less-expensive, no-frills hotel, it can give you the experience of a larger, more extensive resort for a day or two.

— Mandy Vieregg
Tagged
Packing
346276

I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

— Linda Steven
Tagged
Planning
335270

I have the words "hotel" and "taxi" on my cell- phone speed dial. On a trip, I change the numbers, but leave the preprogrammed titles the same--instant access and no more little slips of paper everywhere.

— Isabel Burk
Tagged
Planning
356273

Spring skiing often means a wild temperature shift from morning to afternoon. If you want the option of removing outer layers or switching to a lighter ski jacket midday, attach the lift ticket to your clothing with a split-ring key ring. You'll be able to move your ticket as the weather warms up.

— Don Harbold
Tagged
Planning
363267

If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

— John Lavelle
Tagged
Cultural Etiquette
423605

My husband and I befriended some locals in Provence by joining them in a game of petanque. It was such a memorable experience that now we brush up on local games each time we plan to travel abroad. We've played dominoes in Spain and bocce in Italy.

— Lesa Porché
Tagged
Air Travel
343254

Don't settle for the first answer to your travel question. If you need flight information, it's a good idea to phone the airline more than once and ask the same question. Recently, I wanted to see if I could fly standby on an earlier flight the same day. The first time I called, I was told that the earlier flight was booked. The second time, however, an agent said there were in fact seats available, and I could certainly fly standby. In the end, not only was I able to get on the flight, but I was upgraded to first class.

— Lynn Babcock
Tagged
Hotels
408349

Remember to check the hours of operation for your hotel's airport shuttle. In Rome,we were surprised to learn that our hotel--which touted its shuttle--only offered the service a few hours a day.

— Gail Moriarty
Tagged
Dining
373284

I carry recipe cards with me to jot down interesting dishes I come across while on vacation. (I also like to use colorful postcards from the area I'm visiting and trim them to fit my recipe box.) Here's a wonderful dessert idea I brought home after spending a rainy afternoon with my husband in a London pub: Top a warm waffle with vanilla ice cream, maple syrup, and chopped pecans. It's heaven with a cup of hot tea.

— Susan Mullens
Tagged
Packing
385298

My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic cassette case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry.

— Nancy Bastian
Tagged
Hotels
445353

Instead of dropping my laundry off at the front desk, I take a walk around the block and look for the nearest dry cleaner--probably the same one the hotel would've taken it to. By cutting out the middle man, I pay a quarter of what they charge at the hotel!

— Amy Paks
Tagged
Air Travel
380270

Check fares periodically after booking your airfare. The airline may have a sale, and buying new tickets could save you money, even after you pay the change penalty. My wife and I used Travelocity's Fare Finder to pocket $187 each on a recent trip from Seattle to New York City, simply by re-ticketing.

— Doug Rittenhouse
Tagged
Air Travel
489605

When looking for the lowest airfare, I've found that in some cases the best rates pop up when searching for one traveler instead of two. Recently, I wanted to buy one-way tickets from New York to Orlando for two people and came up with $87 per person. But when I selected one traveler, the fare dropped to $72.

— Yoshi Matsuda
Tagged
Technology
384292

When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

— Carol Vela
Tagged
Planning
349255

If you're planning to use an ATM abroad, make sure the money you need is in your checking account, because some foreign ATMs don't allow access to savings accounts. And remember to carry your bank's local phone number with you; 800 numbers generally don't work overseas.

— Donna Johnson
Tagged
Technology
390297

Don't put your magnetic sunglass clip-ons in the same pocket as your mass transit fare cards or hotel key cards. I managed to erase both my subway pass and my hotel key on a recent trip.

— Jim Tichenor
Tagged
Packing
423607

Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

— Linda Phelps
Tagged
Packing
385302

After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

— Jennifer Minton
Tagged
Packing
378275

Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman
Tagged
Packing
355245

Water-bottle holsters are good for more than holding water. I own several Water Bottle Totes by Outdoor Research (orgear.com). With their Velcro-like straps, I can fasten them anywher--to my belt, camera strap, fanny pack, purse, or airplane seat. I've used them at various times to carry my camera, binoculars, snacks, umbrella, battery-powered fan, flashlight, sunglasses, a windbreaker, and a rain poncho.

— Patricia S Beagle

Custom Search

Select the details relevant to your trip to see a list of articles that match your needs — it's the best way to get ideas!
SELECT YOUR DESTINATION
SELECT YOUR ACTIVITIES