ALL SHOOK UP

L.A.'s New Cocktail Scene

Ambitious mixologists have set their sights on Los Angeles, making it the latest hotspot for groundbreaking cocktails like liquid-nitrogen caipirinhas and mojitos strained through cotton candy.

The Varnish serves plenty of classics, garnished with perfectly oversize ice cubes (Trujillo Paumier)

Seven-month-old The Tar Pit, the latest installment from big-time L.A. restaurateur Mark Peel, takes its inspiration from the art deco age—the mirrored booths and wrought-iron palm fronds suggest the setting of a Howard Hughes flick. Mixologist Audrey Saunders, of New York's celebrated Pegu Club, developed cutting-edge drinks meant to be paired with sweet or savory small plates. The libations are separated into sours, aromatics, and champagne cocktails like the French 95 (bourbon, lemon, sugar, and champagne). Selections off the former two menus get more adventurous. There's the Bees Knees, a joint-tickling blend of gin, honey, and lemon, or the After Glow, mixed with aquavit, amaro, maraschino, and bianco vermouth. 609 N. La Brea Ave., 323/965-1300, tarpitbar.com, cocktails from $12.

Listen up, fans of the smoky spirit mezcal, or the more popular Mexican export tequila—Las Perlas is the bar you've been waiting for. It's named for the bubbles that form when high-quality mezcal is shaken (the more perlas, or pearls, the better). A pool table and a jukebox lend a casual feel to Las Perlas, whose architecturally sophisticated interior is punctuated by custom woodwork and enormous 100-year-old Oaxacan mezcal bottles. Over at the bar, you can help yourself to complimentary snacks, including cacahuates (peanuts) and chicharrones (fried pork skins). Wash it all down with the likes of the Poblano Escobar (mezcal, poblano peppers, and pineapple) or the El Melón (mezcal, goji berries, cantaloupe foam, salt, and pepper). 107 E. 6th St., 213/988-8355, lasperlas.la, cocktails from $10.

Chef José Andrés has racked up critical accolades and awards for the SLS Hotel's Bazaar, his 2-year-old shrine to molecular gastronomy. Another bragging right: It houses one of L.A.'s most-talked-about bars. Directly inside the Mid-City West hotel, guests are greeted by the quirky yet lavish interior of the Bazaar's Bar Centro. Filled to the brim most nights and barely navigable on the weekends, Bar Centro whips up concoctions so complex they're likely only offered at a handful of places around the globe. There are liquid-nitrogen cocktails in the form of potent caipirinhas and mojitos strained through cotton candy. With prices starting at $16, cocktails here are by no means affordable—or forgettable. 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., 310/246-5555, thebazaar.com, cocktails from $16.

In the back room of Cole's restaurant, The Varnish is a speakeasy-themed cocktail joint from some of the biggest names in the business. Sasha Petraske (NYC's Milk & Honey, Dutch Kills, White Star), Eric Alperin (L.A.'s Osteria Mozza), and Cedd Moses (L.A.'s Broadway Bar, Golden Gopher, Seven Grand) teamed up to launch this oak-paneled, transporting one-room space in downtown L.A. With just a few seats at the bar, most patrons are relegated to about a dozen vintage booths salvaged from a graveyard of old trolley cars in New Orleans. While the bar serves plenty of classics, garnished with perfectly oversize ice cubes, especially ambitious—or indecisive—drinkers can choose a base liquor and let a more-than-adept bartender surprise them. 118 E. 6th St., 213/622-9999, thevarnishbar.com, cocktails from $12.

The Roger Room, tricked out with rust-colored mohair booths and murals of carnival performers, follows in the footsteps of speakeasy-themed predecessors like the Varnish. There's no sign outside; look for the bouncer and the barred windows. On any given night, celebrities from Gerard Butler to Jon Hamm can be seen rubbing shoulders—quite literally, as the space continuously flirts with exceeding capacity—with in-the-know Angelenos. Try the Grifter, best described as an absinthe mojito, or the Spiced Mule, an import from Paris that pairs Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum and ginger juice with lime juice, vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon, and club soda. To avoid being turned away, arrive before 10 p.m. 370 N. La Cienega Blvd., 310/854-1300, cocktails from $12.

The landmark 1923 Millennium Biltmore Hotel has appeared in many films, from Chinatown to Beverly Hills Cop to Wedding Crashers. But the hotel remains most notorious as the last reported location the Black Dahlia was seen alive. Pay tribute to the murder victim at the on-site Gallery Bar, where her namesake martini combines Grey Goose Le Citron vodka, Chambord, Kahlúa, and orange peel garnish.The wood-paneled interior is rarely too packed, making it perfect for chatting over a well-crafted cocktail, minus the see-and-be-seen crowd. Chandeliers and the painted Renaissance-esque ceiling lend an element of Old Hollywood. 506 S. Grand Ave., 213/624-1011, millenniumhotels.com, cocktails from $10.

Hotelier André Balazs knows how to manufacture a scene, and the environment at Bar Marmont, one door down from its namesake, Chateau Marmont, is no different. As a secluded rendezvous point on the Sunset Strip for tabloid fixtures and those whose job it is to keep them famous, Bar Marmont is prime turf for people watching. Bide your time with a cocktail and decadent bites from the Spotted Pig's Carolynn Spence. Libations of choice at this watering hole are the Westside (citrus vodka with fresh lemon juice, a pinch of mint, and a splash of club soda) and the Dorothy Palmer (gin, fresh lime juice, and a splash of Chambord topped with a splash of champagne). 8171 W. Sunset Blvd., 323/650-0575, chateaumarmont.com, cocktails from $10.

L.A. CONFIDENTIAL

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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If you know you'll be cooking while on vacation, bring along small amounts of the spices you need for your favorite recipes. You'll save by not buying large containers of spices.

— Joan Phillips
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If you make a hotel reservation online and then cancel online, print out and save the cancellation confirmation for at least two billing cycles past your trip. After our vacation, I found a "no-show" charge on my credit card for a room that I'd canceled well in advance. Without the confirmation, I had no way to contest the bill.

— Karen Griffith-Hedberg
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Preserve even the small number of frequent-flier miles you may obtain by making occasional use of a particular carrier; the miles can be worth money. Even if you don't regularly fly on Delta, Northwest, Continental, or several other airlines, sign up for their frequent-flier programs when you book a long or overseas flight. Points.com allows you to redeem miles for magazine subscriptions, music downloads, and other products. You can also use miles to get small discounts on purchases at retailers such as Amazon.com.

— Jonelle Niffenegger
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Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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When traveling with my kids, I bring a Ziploc bag that includes four things: Benadryl, children's ibuprofen, one of those little medicine cups, and a thermometer. This all-purpose kit will help with minor ailments, or treat a more serious flu until you can get to a doctor. Best of all, it saves Dad from driving around at 2 a.m. looking for an all-night pharmacy.

— Heather Crow
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On the final day of a recent Caribbean vacation, I tried to arrange for a late checkout, but was told it wasn't possible. The hotel offered me the use of a day room; it would have been perfect, but it was being used by other guests, and there was a very long wait for the shower. I went back upstairs and saw that someone was just about to clean my room. I told the housekeeper that I understood she had to do her job, but I wondered if I could I take a quick shower first. She offered to clean next door while I took my shower. I tipped her $10 and then left for the airport.

— Michele Chico
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When I'm packing to leave a hotel room, I turn the bedding down to the foot of the bed so that the white sheets are facing up. This way, items placed on the bed are clearly visible. I once left a camera behind because I couldn't see it against a very dark bedspread.

— Fran Schaak
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I've found that by wedging a bath mat under my hotel-room door, I can reduce any light or noise coming from the hallway—ensuring that I'll sleep better.

— Louisa Elder
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I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
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Every summer, we drive out West from Pennsylvania with our two kids. To avoid that infamous road trip question ("Are we there yet?"), I give each child a map with our route highlighted on it. Along the way, they can match up the town names with road signs we pass, and that way, they always know exactly where we are and how much farther we have to go until we'll get there.

— Machelle McCoy
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When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
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If you're planning to use an ATM abroad, make sure the money you need is in your checking account, because some foreign ATMs don't allow access to savings accounts. And remember to carry your bank's local phone number with you; 800 numbers generally don't work overseas.

— Donna Johnson
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My husband cut an old contact lens case in two and uses the halves to carry his medication when we're traveling. He prefers them to regular pillboxes because lens cases are watertight and compact enough to carry inside a shirt pocket.

— Jean Holtmann
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Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

— Nancy Norman
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If you don't have enough frequent-flier miles to get to Europe, use your miles to reach a major airport in the United States and then pay for the overseas flight from there. For a trip to Ireland, my husband and I used Delta SkyMiles to get from Cincinnati to New York's JFK airport and from there took Aer Lingus to Ireland. The Aer Lingus internet special was $267 per person. A Delta flight from Cincinnati to Ireland was $1,150 for two. We saved more than $600.

— Kristin Farrell
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I enjoy off-peak travel best--rates are cheaper, lines are shorter--but the weather can be iffy. To combat Mother Nature's unpredictability, I always pack a roll or two of black-and-white film. While dreary-day color photos bring only consoling remarks from friends, black-and-white film tends to lend a mystique to gray landscapes and creates some very dramatic Ansel Adams--esque shots.

— Ed Danyo
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About a month before leaving on vacation, I start clipping the crossword puzzles from the daily newspaper and pasting them into a blank notebook. The puzzles keep me occupied during my trip. The newspaper's crosswords are so much more interesting than the generic books of them you can purchase at the airport.

— Kathie Meyer
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Lightweight, washable, and multifunctional, a cotton sarong is an easy and practical addition to every traveler's don't-leave-home-without-it bag! I've used mine as a swimsuit cover-up, as a picnic blanket on the grounds of a château in the Loire Valley, as a temporary skirt (over my shorts) in a Bangkok temple, and as an extra pillow while hiking the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. It's also handy as an airplane blanket, emergency towel, or tablecloth.

— Nicole Serafica
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If your travels take you to U.S. cities large enough to have museums, zoos, and/or botanical gardens, consider buying a membership in your home city's counterpart. Many have reciprocal privileges with institutions elsewhere. A membership at Chicago's Lincoln Park Zoo, for example, lets you see the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and zoos in Los Angeles, Des Moines, and Jackson, Mississippi, at no charge.

— Alice M. Solovy
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When buying bottled water, look at the bottle cap to see if the seal is still intact. While visiting the Acropolis on a very hot day this summer, I caught a young boy refilling empty water bottles from a tap and recapping them. He was then selling the bottles to thirsty tourists.

— Alice Atkinson
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Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

— Carol P. McCrea
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Even if you're not hungry when the flight attendant comes around with the snack service, take it for later. Although peanuts may not look appetizing at 7 a.m., they will look good later if you have nothing better to eat. And it saves you from picking up something at expensive airport shops.

— Fran Rifkin
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To find a reasonably priced villa or apartment to rent, try going directly to the owner through a site such as abritel.fr. (Click on the British flag for English.) I arranged to spend two weeks in an apartment in Brittany and one week in an apartment in the Loire Valley, all for a total of $800.

— Suzanne Maurice-Roberts
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Attach a few carabiners--the kind of clips rock climbers use--to the top of your wheeled suitcase. Purses, cameras, and shopping bags can be clipped to your suitcase, giving your hands and shoulders a rest while you're walking around the airport.

— Kathryn Murphy
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Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

— Michele Graves
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Pick just two colors to mix and match throughout your trip. You'll cut down on luggage, not least because you won't have to bring a bunch of shoes to match a wide assortment of colors.

— Lori Fields
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Don't be too quick to grab one of those GST tax-rebate envelopes that are everywhere in Canadian airports. The envelopes look official, but they're really from companies that process the request for you and often pocket 15 percent or more. Instead, go to the Canada Revenue Agency Web site (cra-arc.gc.ca), download the Application for Visitor Tax Refund, and then file the request yourself. Your check will arrive in a few weeks. Just remember to get your receipt stamped by the Canada Border Services Agency at the airport.

— Tony Reynolds
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When we come home at night, my wife and I each take a dollar from our wallets and put them in a special spot. We deposit what we've collected into a travel account at our bank every few months, so at the end of a year, we have $730 toward our next vacation—not counting interest.

— Wayne Block
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After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

— Carol Muth
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In Europe, my husband and I like to use public transportation. As a result, we frequently find ourselves studying itineraries displayed on train station walls, trying to read schedules posted at bus stops, or staring at kiosk-size town maps. On our last trip, my husband snapped digital photographs of those things. We were able to take the map or itinerary with us and could refer to it as needed by using the zoom feature.

— Anne Supsic

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