Amsterdam's Eastern Docklands The long-neglected New East is a glowing example of 21st-century urban planning done right. Budget Travel Tuesday, Mar 22, 2005, 11:31 AM From left: A resident of Sporenburg; the bar at Odessa; De Walvis, an office building whose name means "The Whale" (Left: Guy Offerman, Morad Bouchakour) Budget Travel LLC, 2016


Amsterdam's Eastern Docklands

The long-neglected New East is a glowing example of 21st-century urban planning done right.

A day of high-design hopping is best finished by revisiting the Docklands' wild roots. For that, head to Azart, an eccentric, Felliniesque cabaret boat--also known as the Ship of Fools. A man named August Dirks is the unlikely captain of a motley crew of performers. The boat, only open on Fridays from 11 p.m., has burlesque theater and cheap drinks. If only the boat would take you back to your hotel....

Getting to the Eastern Docklands

Amsterdam's main train depot, Centraal Station, is practically on the doorstep of the Eastern Docklands, so it's feasible to walk to where the neighborhood starts--though the wind can be relentless. Beginning in June, a tram (#26) will start running from Centraal Station to the area. Another option is to arrive by water; two ferries run a route every 20 minutes from Steiger 8 (Pier 8) behind the station and drop you off at Java-eiland. It's a 10-minute trip and costs $1.30. Alternately, bus 42 heads from the station to the Oostelijke Handelskade, then Java-eiland and KNSM-eiland; night bus 359 takes over running the route from midnight to dawn. You'll need to buy a strippenkaart, a card priced according to how far you travel. For more information, consult the transit authority (, 011-31/20-460-0606).



  • Rederij Lovers 011-31/20-530-1090, $25 including coffee, tea, and cake

  • Arttra 011-31/20-625-9303, $144 per hour per group

  • Bakker & Bakker 011-31/20-683-6359, $102 per hour per group
  • Lodgings


  • Lloyd Hotel Oostelijke Handelskade 34, 011-31/20-561- 3636,
  • Food


  • Odessa Veemkade 259, 011-31/20-419-3010, three courses $35

  • Einde van de Wereld next to Javakade 2, 011-31/20-419-0222, cash only, dishes from $7

  • Roos en Noor Baron G. A. Tindalstraat 148, 011-31/20-419- 1440, dishes $2-$3 per 3.5 oz.

  • Fifteen Jollemanhof 9, 011-31/20-509-5011, à la carte plates average about $26

  • Azart Azartplein 117, no phone,, beer $1.90, no cover
  • Attractions


  • NEMO National Center for Science and Technology 011-31/20-531-3233,

  • Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ Piet Heinkade 1, 011-31/20-788-2010

  • Po's Potten KNSM-laan 39, 011-31/20-419-3541

  • Dominio KNSM-laan 301, 011-31/20-419-0546

  • ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600, 011-31/20-620-4878, Tues.-Sat., 1 p.m.-5 p.m., maps $9.60
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    Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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