Buenos Aires . . . Then What?
Our last stop is a late lunch at Hostería del Palomar, which has since moved a block away and changed its name to Viejo Roble. María, our guide at the Draghi museum, had mentioned that it's popular; the half-hour wait for a table proves her right. Locals sit outdoors in front of piles of ribs, chorizo, and whatever else the grill-master happens to be cooking. I ask for a vino con soda--the house red mixed with ice and carbonated water from a classic soda siphon. It's the Argentine way.
Getting there: By bus or taxi
Remises Esperanza, a remis (car service), charges about $50 each way for the 90-minute ride from Buenos Aires to San Antonio de Areco (011-54/11-4829-1551). The Nueva Chevallier bus company has service from Retiro Station in B.A. to San Antonio for $5 each way; the trip takes two hours (011-54/11-4016-7000, nuevachevallier.com.ar). A taxi from San Antonio to La Bamba costs $6.50 each way.