EXPERT ADVICE

Drink Beer Better

Brewmasters and industry insiders weigh in on how to pour, store, and judge a fine beer—and survive a long night at the pub.

Lost Abbey's labels have a biblical slant: (l-r) Angel's Share, Judgment Day, and 10 Commandments (courtesy Lost Abbey)

Americans have always been hearty drinkers. W.J. Rorabaugh—author of The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition and a history professor at the University of Washington—suggests that travel has influenced our beer-drinking habits since the 1840s, when Germans arrived with lager in tow.

"When beer returned in 1933 after Prohibition, Americans no longer had a taste for the heavy, flavorful beers available before 1917," Rorabaugh says. "For many years, brewers turned out very light-colored beer that had little flavor. Only in the 1960s, when Americans began to visit Europe in large numbers, did they rediscover flavorful beers."

Seeking out breweries and pubs "When traveling to new cities, consider that the best beer is often found at the source of production. There are thousands of opportunities to visit breweries. I was just in Brussels, Belgium, and recommend the Brasserie Cantillon, which brews lambic beer—using an old-world production method of spontaneously fermenting beer from airborne yeast—and runs tours in English, French, and Dutch. And north of Brussels, near Antwerp, the Moortgat family brewery, which produces Duvel, also has a fantastic tour. If it's a pub you wish to visit, ask locals where they drink. They often can recommend pubs and bars that are less tourist-centered and more down to earth—you'll find the experience vastly different than heavily commercialized offerings." Tomme Arthur, director of brewery operations, Port Brewing Co. and the Lost Abbey (Motto: "In illa brettanomyces nos fides" or "In these wild yeasts we trust")

Pouring and enjoying "Begin your beer pour down the middle of the glass, and as the head forms to your satisfaction, slow down as you shift to pour from the side. Leave a little open air at the top of your glass so there's room to smell the beer and swirl it in your glass. This releases carbon dioxide fizz, which carries the aromas of hops, malt, and fermentation out of the beer, into the foam and to your senses. Gently inhale as you quaff your brew—you'll notice exciting shifts in flavor and aroma balances as you drain your glass. Look for floral and spicy-herbal hop character: sweet malt; fruity fermentation; bold, complex alcohol; and other intended surprises." Charlie Papazian, president, Brewers Association

Freshness "People ask me all the time what my favorite beer is, and I always reply that it's the freshest beer wherever I may be. Check freshness dates like you do when buying milk, and purchase beer within 90 days of being bottled or within the manufacturers "best before" date. (Most brewers provide a freshness date on their packaging.) Buy from the refrigerated section, only buy what you will consume in a week, and keep the beer in your fridge. Remember that beer is liquid bread—you wouldn't buy a three-month-old loaf and expect it to taste good." Matthew Brynildson, brewmaster, Firestone Walker Brewing Co.

Judging a good beer "If a beer is really sweet or made with fruit syrup, you can most likely cross it off your list. Most good beer should be unfiltered and unpasteurized, and served as fresh as possible. Taste is subjective, but the real craftspeople of the beer world don't make sweet, artificially flavored muck. If you've seen a lot of advertising for the beer in a magazine or on TV, that is a reason to question where the money is being spent. Small breweries don't have money for marketing and spend all of their money on making great beer. Look to small breweries for better products; they tend to be in business because of their passion for great beer." Matt Dinges, sales manager, Shelton Brothers

Glasses "Every brewer wants you to fully experience the pleasures it has brewed in each of its beers. For aromatic, hoppy, or strong ales and lagers, try glassware that resembles a brandy snifter, trapping the complex and tantalizing aromas released by the carbonation. Elegant beers are enhanced by slender and thin-walled glassware. Hearty ales and full-malt lagers do you well in hearty, straight-up glasses or handled mugs. For barrel-aged and/or very strong brews, try short-stemmed wine-type glassware." Papazian

Temperature "Yes, ice-cold light lager does taste great on a hot summer day at the ballpark, but when it comes to enjoying a well-crafted American brew, an English-style ale, or a spicy Belgian-style beer, make sure that you serve the beer between 45 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit (not 35 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit where most Americans set their refrigerators). Lower temperatures may add to refreshment, but they also lower the perception of flavor and aroma—numbing the tongue. Allowing a beer to warm up a little will go a long way to releasing the flavors locked inside." Brynildson

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