ON THE HORIZON
Move Over, Tuscany
Six reasons Germany's Zabergäu valley is the next great place to experience artisanal Europe.
1. The wines Germany is known for Rieslings, but it's the red wines that garner attention here. Taste Trollingers and Lembergers from private vineyards at Jupiter Wine Cellar (Kelterstrasse 2, Brackenheim-Hausen, 011-49/7135-974-210, jupiterweinkeller.de, tastings from $11.75).
2. The farmers Part of the burgeoning agritourism scene, Rolf and Angelika Hering give tours of their organic sheep ranch, where they sell every color of yarn imaginable (Grüner Winkel 28, Zaberfeld, 011-49/7046-7741).
3. The honey For centuries, bees have been used to pollinate the crops in the area. The Steinhausen family tends 25 hives and sells beeswax lip balm, hand salve, and candles, and 12 types of honey (Rodbachhof 24, Pfaffenhofen, 011-49/7046-881-275).
4. The inns From 1568 until its renovation in 1979, the Herzogskelter served as the town of Güglingen's wine and fruit cellar. Today, it's still the place to go for a glass of Lemberger and some schnitzel, or to stay in one of the 33 warmly simple rooms (Deutscher Hof 1, Güglingen, 011-49/7135-930-610, herzogskelter.de, rooms from $56).
5. The comfort food Forget fusion—Zabergäu is all about traditional specialties like knockwurst, expertly grilled so the outside has snap and the inside is juicy.
6. The architecture The Fachwerk houses are storybook cute, but most of them are sturdy enough to date back to the 1700s.