New England, Old Haunts

Years ago, a father and son spent two summers by the lake in New Hampshire. Now they're back for the foliage and a near-vertical train ride you shouldn’t miss.

I've planned one last stop in Portsmouth: a self-guided tour of theUSSAlbacore, an experimental nuclear submarine built in the 1950s at the town's Naval Shipyard. But on the way, I start to have second thoughts about whether this is a good idea. My dad has a low opinion of subs after 20 years in the Navy, and setting foot on one might be the last thing he wants to do. I'm relieved, however, when he says he's game for the tour. And he even serves as a guide, telling me all about how subs are built and how this one differs from those still in operation.

I enjoy listening to his stories from the past, especially those about our summers here. Our trip back 30 years later has been eventful, too, despite the fact I didn't win any prizes from the goldfish pond and Dad didn't wind up with a broken nose.

Squam Lakes Natural Science Center
23 Science Center Rd., Holderness, 603/968-7194,, $13

USS Albacore
600 Market St., Portsmouth, 603/436-3680,, $5

Manchester is the more convenient city to fly into, but Portland, Maine, can be cheaper. One of the most scenic drives is on Route 11, which hugs the southern shore of Lake Winnipesaukee.


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