Rediscovering Arizona

Native son Mario López-Cordero returns home to the Sonoran Desert to find it all grown up—world-class vineyards, smart B&Bs reclaiming old adobes, and a food culture both earthy and full of surprises.

On the ride back to Nogales, the Patagonias loom over the highway, silhouetted against the moonlight. I take them in from the passenger seat while Rob drives. Backlit by a million stars, they shine black against the steel-gray sky. It's real and it's lovely and it's home.


Hacienda Corona de Guevavi
348 S. River Rd., Nogales,, doubles from $189, including breakfast

The Duquesne House
357 Duquesne Ave., Patagonia,, doubles from $125, including breakfast


Zulas Restaurant
982 N. Grand Ave., Nogales, 520/287-2892, entrées from $8

Canela Bistro
3252 Hwy. 82, Sonoita, 520/455-5873,, entrées from $13


Callaghan Vineyards
336 Elgin Rd., Elgin, 520/455-5322,, tastings $7

Sonoita Vineyards
290 Elgin-Canelo Rd., Elgin, 520/455-5893,, tastings $5

Dos Cabezas WineWorks
3248 Hwy. 82, Sonoita, 520/455-5141,, tastings $7

Canelo Hills Vineyard & Winery
342 Elgin Rd., Elgin, 520/455-5499,, tastings $5

Rancho Rossa Vineyards
32 Cattle Ranch Ln., Elgin, 520/455-0700,, tastings $5


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