Paris is the world's most gorgeous city. The chic Marais and St. Germain, the romantic stairway streets of Montmartre, the imperial grandeur that sweeps west from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower--all shine as brightly as ever. But the magic is spreading, especially to the north and east of the Bastille. The bohemian classes are infusing new vibrancy into old working-class quarters, turning a disused train station into a club, a hardware store into a bar, a railroad into a garden walkway, old workshops into atmospheric restaurants. Discover (or rediscover) Paris. Start here.