INTO THE REDWOODS

Secret Hotels of Big Sur

The dramatic scenery is clearly the star along California's Big Sur coast, but these nine hotels—all with double rooms for well under $200—come in a close second. Did we mention the views?

By Laura MacNeil, Tuesday, Mar 18, 2008, 12:00 AM

(map by Newhouse Design)

DAVENPORT
Davenport Roadhouse
The former whaling town of Davenport isn't much more than a tiny row of buildings right on Highway 1, the two-lane road that winds along the California coast. One of those buildings is the Davenport Roadhouse. Originally a general store, the Roadhouse had evolved into a restaurant and B&B by the time Renée Kwan, a real-estate asset manager, noticed it as she was searching for good waves to surf. She now oversees the place with managers Jesse Katz, Jeff Hansen, and Robin Sirakides, CFO of Newman's Own Organics. The eight guest rooms in the main house have high ceilings and oversize windows, and they share one large balcony with ocean views. Next to the kitchen garden is a former bathhouse with four more rooms, each with photos of the property and the town from the early 1900s. The restaurant uses local, organic ingredients in its salads and thin-crust pizzas, and for dessert there are gigantic slices of ice cream cake. To create a sense of community, the owners showcase folk singers and bluegrass bands in the restaurant and host rotating art exhibits. 831/426-8801, davenportroadhouse.com, from $120, with breakfast.

APTOS
Sand Rock Farm
Kris Sheehan always kept an eye out for arts-and-crafts antiques--and a small inn where she could show them off--as she traveled the coast for her telecom job. When she found a five-bedroom Craftsman-style home in Aptos, 60 miles north of Big Sur, she pounced, and opened it as a B&B in 2000. The rooms have a country aesthetic--rocking chairs and antique beds--and three have their own hot tubs. But the inn's main appeal is its surrounding 10 acres, which include a redwood grove and four gardens. Lilac and camellia bushes flower in one; rose bushes, protected from deer by a redwood fence, grow in another. Beyond the gardens and past a large wooden barn is an 1897 winery built by the original owner, who abandoned it after producing only one year's worth of wine. Guests have the option of eating breakfast--baked French toast with braised pears, for example, or broccoli and sun-dried tomato frittatas--in the dining room or on the deck under towering redwoods. Unless it's raining, there's really no choice. 831/688-8005, sandrockfarm.com, from $185, with breakfast.

PACIFIC GROVE
Anton Inn
When John Enns landed a teaching position in Monterey in 2003, he and his wife, Gail--and all the art in her gallery in Washington, D.C.--moved to Pacific Grove, a sleepy respite from nearby Monterey. "We couldn't find anything that would be suitable for a gallery, so we bought a motel," John says. Soon after, Gail and their daughter Ilana opened Anton Inn as a motel/gallery, using the slow winter months to renovate. The 10 rooms have new electric fireplaces, tile floors, and subdued color palettes that complement the paintings and sculptures. On Thursday nights, the family hosts dinners for artists and any guests and friends who are interested in art. "We've had golfers, Japanese businessmen, an English playwright, an artistic director from an Israeli kibbutz, newlyweds from Egypt, and a wonderful German woman who spoke no English but delighted us all with her personality," says Gail. "One thing's for certain--it's always an experience." 831/373-4429, antoninn.com, from $119, with breakfast.

BIG SUR
Ripplewood Resort
Back in the 1920s, the Fees, a local family, saw promise in the scenic valley formed by the Big Sur River. They built nine redwood-plank cabins along the river and christened them the Ripplewood Resort. (Eight other cabins, added over the next two decades, sit among the trees across Highway 1.) In 1955, Ted Hartman bought the property; two years ago, his son-in-law, Carl Shadwell, took it over. He and his brother Sean run the place. Room features vary from cabin to cabin: Some have decks, fireplaces, and/or skylights above the showers, and most have kitchens. Carl, a former chef, overhauled the restaurant's menu. "People insisted that we keep the potato casserole," says Sean, "so we had to invent a version we'd be happy with." The result--shredded potatoes blended with sour cream and cheese, and then baked or grilled--is the creamiest, most irresistible hash browns ever. 831/667-2242, ripplewoodresort.com, from $95.

BIG SUR
Glen Oaks
In 1955, Doris Fee decided to build a 15-unit motel along Highway 1, next to the Ripplewood Resort. When Basil and Tracy Sanborn took over in 2005, everything was exactly as it had been 50 years earlier. The couple updated the reservations system--guests used to secure a spot by mailing in a check--and then tackled the rooms. "We wanted to maintain the spirit of Big Sur," Tracy says. She kept the adobe walls, added bamboo floors and furniture made of sustainable wood, and had California artists create felted-wool rugs and pillows. Bathrooms now have heated pebble floors and vanities made from recycled sorghum stock. Last fall, the Sanborns installed stairs along the redwood forest trail, and soon they'll put in picnic benches along the Big Sur River. "We have the best swimming hole in Big Sur," says Tracy. 831/667-2105, glenoaksbigsur.com, from $135.

BIG SUR
Deetjen's Big Sur Inn
Deetjen's has been the embodiment of Big Sur for generations. It isn't about the plush amenities (there aren't any) or a feeling of seclusion (single-panel wood walls mean you can hear a neighbor's sneeze), but an appreciation for Big Sur itself. "The whole idea behind Deetjen's is its sense of place," says general manager Torrey Waag. Built in the 1930s by Norwegian immigrant Helmuth Deetjen, the hotel became a haven for artists and writers. These days, the hotel and its café are as much a draw for full-time Big Sur residents as they are for visitors. There are 20 rooms in seven ramshackle cabins, and they're not for everyone. But if the glowing comments in each room's guest book are any indication, there's something deeply satisfying about staying amid all the hand-built furniture, surrounded by a collection of antiques, with trees rustling and surf crashing in the background. 831/667-2377, deetjens.com, from $95.

JOLON
Hacienda Lodging
The drive to the Hacienda, over the Santa Lucia Range, is so narrow and windy that it's impossible to go faster than 20 mph. The 17-mile journey from Highway 1 takes at least an hour, but it's worth it for the views of the Pacific and Los Padres National Forest. Built in the 1920s by William Randolph Hearst, the Hacienda was sold to the Department of War in 1940. A division of the Army now runs the California-mission-style house as a hotel. Rooms retain many original features--carved wooden doors and star-shaped windows--but the furniture is basic at best. Since it's within an active military-training base, the Hacienda has a peculiar set of amenities: Guests can play tennis, go bowling, pick up light meals at a café, and knock back $2 beers at the hotel bar (but only military personnel can shop at the commissary and the gas station). Call ahead to find out about any military exercises, because roads and gates may close. 831/386-2511, from $45, with breakfast.

SOUTH BIG SUR
Treebones Resort
John Handy and his wife, Corinne, spent years searching the central coast for a place to retire. Only after they bought 11 acres in southern Big Sur, however, did they realize that new zoning laws wouldn't allow them to build a house. So they built a hotel. "But we didn't want it to be like a hotel at all," says John. His mother turned the couple on to the idea of yurts, tent-like structures that can be built with very little wood; their simple foundations also wouldn't require bulldozing the steeply sloped land. John commissioned craftsmen to make chairs from unwanted saplings for the main lodge; for the terrace, he had a 65-foot bar built from a redwood that had been cut down and abandoned. The 16 yurts have pine floors and wooden furniture, and best of all, each has a skylight to let the sun and stars peek through. 877/424-4787, treebonesresort.com, from $155, with breakfast.

SAN SIMEON
Best Western Cavalier Oceanfront Resort
As Highway 1 approaches San Simeon, the cliffs of Big Sur mellow into rolling hills and low bluffs--an ideal setting for the oceanfront fire pits at the Best Western Cavalier Oceanfront Resort. The 90 rooms, spread out among five 2-story buildings, share three fire pits, outdoor heated pools, and a hot tub. The property's story is a testament to the area's allure. In 1959, Harris Victor, a butcher in Tacoma, Wash., took his family on a road trip along the California coast. When he noticed all the tourists heading to Hearst Castle, he decided to open a motel--and bought property within the week. "It was quite a surprise," says his daughter, Barbara Hanchett. "We never went back to Tacoma." Harris eventually sold that motel and opened this one, now run by Barbara and her husband, Michael. The family oversaw an extensive renovation of the rooms three years ago; some now boast two-person soaking tubs. All the rooms with views have binoculars for bird-watching--but you don't need anything except your ears to hear the churning waves. 800/826-8168, cavalierresort.com, from $99.

Big Sur proper is a town on the Pacific Coast about 150 miles south of San Francisco, but the term also refers to the 90-mile stretch between Carmel and San Simeon. To get there, fly into San Francisco or San Jose, and make your way to Highway 1. Because of high demand, the hotels in this story tend to book up very early, especially in summer, and they often have minimum-stay requirements on weekends. As an alternative, you may want to check out the house rentals and B&Bs listed on Vacation Rentals By Owner's website, vrbo.com.

CALIFORNIA CLOSE-UP