50 Best B&Bs in Hawaii for Under $100

Just another loud, bustling afternoon in Seoul's hip downtown shopping district of Myong-dong. Gigglesome schoolgirls yak on designer cell phones as they stroll arm-in-arm down crowded lanes lined with clothes shops (goodness, so much black this season) and eateries -- both Western fast-food and local. One store blasts Korean-language hip-hop out onto the street, while down the block a Christian evangelist tries to compete by bellowing his spiel interspersed with slurred, off-key snatches of "Auld Lang Syne." Another guy's selling a boxful of adorable fuzzy pups (for pets, not lunch). Amid all this sensory overload, suddenly a blotch of red and green zigs and zags through the throng: a woman in a traditional silk hanbok, Korea's answer to the kimono or the sari. Who knows what the deal is there? A bride late for her wedding picture? A gonged-out refugee from a folkloric troupe? No matter -- it's like glimpsing the ancient soul of the nation flitting silently through the noisy modern megalopolis. Modern and mega certainly do describe this capital of 11 million -- yet unexpectedly dotting the glass, steel, and concrete sprawl are lovely tucked-away pockets of the "land of the morning calm," the Korea that was: palaces and gardens and marvelously atmospheric old neighborhoods. And beyond Seoul other gems await. Topping the list are Kyongju, the old imperial capital with a millennium's worth of awesome antiquities, and Cheju Island, a semitropical offshore haven with its own singular culture and feel. For a very different kind of history -- the Cold War -- there's nothing else in the world like the DMZ, where U.S. and South Korean troops still tensely guard against the still real menace of Stalinist North Korea (you can't go on your own; day tours from Seoul start at $35). Many of the relatively few Americans who visit do so as a stopover on the way to "bigger fish" like China and Japan. But this particular minnow still manages to pack enough to see and experience to fill at least a couple of weeks. Its cuisine and culture are fascinating -- uniquely Korean forms whose flavor lies somewhere between Japanese and Chinese. The same could be said for its geography -- half of a peninsula hanging down from Manchuria -- and prices that, thanks to the Asian economic crisis that started in the summer of 1997, range from refreshingly affordable to downright amazing for Americans. The U.S. greenback just recently bought more than 1,110 won (everywhere abbreviated as W) compared to 890 in May 1997, which though not as high as a year ago still means a major boost in Yank buy power. Whether shopping for an extraordinary bargain in custom-tailored clothing, enjoying a deluxe hotel for less than $100 a night, or gorging on a 20-course dinner for under $12, this is the time to experience another, truly one-of-a-kind side of Asia. SEOUL SEARCHING The capital of it all is a souped-up mix of past, present, and future. But just as you think you're about to drown in canyons of steel, you stumble into oases like the gargantuan palace complex Kyongbukkun (entry fee W700, or 62¢), reminiscent of Peking's Forbidden City, or the smaller, even more gorgeous Changdokkung ($1.82). Then, too, there are low-slung old quarters like Insa-dong, with its teahouses, crafts shops, and antiques stores, graced with sweeping pagoda-style tile roofs. Explore on your own using the very navigable subway system (35¢-75¢), or grab a bus tour (as little as $18 for three hours). Traditional culture's also very much alive and kicking; don't miss one of the spectacular (sometimes downright acrobatic) performances of ancient court and folk music; ticket prices range from $16.50 for the superb Chongdong Theater to just $4.15 at the National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts. Jock-watchers might appreciate an exciting bout of traditional wrestling or a battle between the Samsung Lions and the Haitai Tigers for $4.15 (baseball is a passion here as in Japan). Then of course there's that great American (and Korean) sport, shopping -- and Seoul boasts some world-class options at bargain-basement prices. In choosing a base of operations for all this, you'll find a plentiful supply of budget-friendly lodgings. The Hamilton Hotel, a brick box on the foreigner-popular shopping and entertainment avenue of Itaewon, offers amenities including a pool and its own mall for a reasonable $99. Over in Myongdong, doubles with private bath at the Savoy start at $58 nightly, and nearby the Metro offers much the same for $50. If you're really looking to stretch that won, consider a yogwan (sometimes translated as "inn," sometimes as "motel"). Comparable to the European pension, they range from disgusting fleabags run by shady characters to simple but well-maintained family establishments. The Korean National Tourism Organization can provide a list of budget inns, but two winners in the charming old Insa-dong area are clean, right off the main street, and offer a night in a double room with bath, A/C, phone, and TV for $21. The Han Hung Jang is run by friendly Shin Kyu Park and her son and (English-speaking) daughter-in-law, while several doors down Kyong Guk Kim operates the Kwan Hoon Jang with his wife and son -- and they'll also feed you for about $3 a meal. If that seems remarkably low, it is. But though one 1999 survey claimed a tourist's eating costs in Seoul rank among the world's highest, away from the Western restaurants and expense-account places there are many eateries where you can fill up for next to nothing, including some good ones in Myongdong. Myongdong Kyoja serves up just four dishes-dumpling soup and three kinds of noodles (bean, spicy, and beef-and-chicken) - but each is a filling treat for just $3.75. At the end of an alleyway between Burger King and Citibank, check out the joint with the fish tank out front: Myongdong Chigae is the famous originator of budae chigae ("boiling soup"), prepared in a big gas-heated platter right on your table. It's just $4.15 for the basic veggie-and-noodle version; each extra ingredient (including -- believe it or not -- frankfurters and Spam) adds $1.65 to $2.10, but even the fully loaded model costing $8.25 easily feeds four. Up the road and around the corner, look for the sign showing a big goofy guy clutching what appears to be a giant rutabaga. He's a North Korean defector whose clean, modern restaurant Morangak specializes in Pyongyang-style nagmun (cold noodles), either spicy or in beef broth with fruit slivers, for $4.15. But if you really want ample, head for the alleyway off Insa-dong where Sok Jung lays out a scrumptious banquet: 10 to 24 dishes served traditional-style on a low table, with floor cushions as seating. Lunch starts at $8.25 per person and dinner at $16.50. CAPTIVATING KYONGJU Not to be confused with other similarly named places like Kwangju, this eastern city is a national treasure well worth at least an overnighter from Seoul. Yes, it's now got high-rises, a commercialized downtown, and a resort district at Pomun Lake jammed with hotels and an amusement park. But Kyongju is also home to two of Asia's most magnificent ancient monuments, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The eighth-century seated Buddha at Sokkuram Grotto ($4.15) is awe-inspiring, as is the nearby sixth-century Pulguksa temple ($2.50), where you can (discreetly) watch real Buddhist monks and nuns going about their devotions. Other must-sees include huge mounds housing royal tombs, the Kyongju National Museum with its 11-foot-tall "Divine Bell," and compounds where residents have added a fridge here and a TV there to a lifestyle otherwise little changed in centuries. You can see it all on a bus tour ($37 with a local outfit, including lunch, or $150 overnight from Seoul, including meals and hotel), or rent a car for $42 per day. A good lodging choice downtown is the salmon-colored yogwan Shilla Jang, where a double runs $21 a night. If you're feeling adventurous, blow an additional $8.25 on an ondul, a traditional Korean-style room where you have to take off your shoes to walk on the floor (covered with thick paper, oiled and varnished) and your bed is a futon on the same; practically every hotel in the country offers ondul rooms, but caveat dormitor: make sure your back is up to the experience. Most Kyongju hotels are out at Pomun Lake, a $6.75 taxi ride from downtown or 35¢ to 60¢ by public bus. The Pomun Grace has modern, pleasant, and comfy doubles with baths and amenities for $29 (plus all meals served for $5 to $8.30 each), but right up the road at the Swiss Rosen, $40 will buy you something similar in a much snazzier designer hotel. No, there's nothing particularly Swiss about the place (they just liked the name), but it's a beaut for the bucks. Eating in Kyongju is generally even cheaper than supping in Seoul. For lunch, head downtown to Chang-u-dong, have a big $2.10 plate of mandu (fried dumplings), and maybe add another -- also $2.10 -- of kimpap, similar to our California roll. Around the corner from the Shilla Jang and three blocks down, it's a clean, modern chain lunchroom sporting a big blue-and-white sign next to a men's shop called Mayfair. (Not uncommon for Korea, there's no street address -- try taking a cab; because most Korean taxis have cell phones, they can call for directions.) Save room for dinner at Won Pung, an atmospheric traditional-style restaurant near the royal tombs, where for $7.50 your table is loaded up in the kitchen and plopped down in front of you, groaning with 20 different delicacies; if your gluttony knows no bounds, order yet more grub from the English menu (roast pork, boiled octopus, roast ox tripe for $8.30 each). The Koreans like to think of this 42-by-24-mile isle (also referred to as Cheju-do) as their very own Hawaii. Well, the palm trees are imported, but they do have several things in common: impressive scenery, volcanic origins, a balmy clime (Cheju's average year-round temperature is 60 degrees), and an ancient, separate language and cultural tradition. Or to compare with Japan, if Seoul is the Tokyo of Korea and imperial Kyongju the Kyoto, then Cheju's not unlike Okinawa. It's a vacation and honeymoon getaway mostly for Koreans and Japanese, but one that hasn't yet been paved over. Apart from loads of natural beauty (lovely waterfalls, lava formations including the world's longest lava tube, South Korea's highest peak), there's plenty of evidence of the Mongol-influenced local culture to explore. Burial mounds encircled by walls of lava rocks dot the hillsides. Mysterious harubang -- ancient humanoid statues -- pop up over the place (originals, copies, and images on everything from buses to harubang-shaped phone booths). Groups of distinctive, white-garbed women divers plumb the coasts for sea critters. Old-style mud-and-thatch houses can still be seen right in the main towns; the rest are in the touristy but still lived-in village of Songup and the Colonial Williamsburg-style Cheju Folk Village (for an entry fee of 83¢, a great visit). And don't forget the botanical, from one of Asia's largest gardens to the Punjae Artpia ($4.15), an impressive one-of-a-kind park filled with 2,000 bonsai trees. You can rent a car for $48 a day (the roads are quite good); take a daylong tourist association bus tour for $27; or even book a package from Seoul (a typical two-nighter might cost around $170, including air, hotel, and daily breakfast). Naturally, there's no shortage of hotels and restaurants, and the exchange rate translates into great bang for your buck even at top-end spots. But budget options are pretty good, too, especially in the capital, Cheju-Shi. The blue-and-white, three-year-old City Hotel is a stylish choice where a double goes for $28 and a suite for $50. Just down the hill, the also newish Hotel Cheju Core offers comparable rooms and amenities (plus a slightly better location closer to downtown) for $33 per double. An hour's drive across the island's width lies the somewhat smaller and quieter city of Sogwipo, whose biggest advantage is that it's near a number of tourist attractions. There's an outlying zone of upscale hotels, but it's cheaper and more convenient to stay right in town. Two worthwhile choices are the Napoli (where doubles with private baths and the usual amenities run $30, and meals $5.80 apiece) and the Lions Hotel, which charges $51.50 per double thanks to its hilltop view over the harbor and the romantic Chonjiyon waterfall (rates drop by 20 percent on weekdays, though, and non-sea-view rooms go for just $43). Heading inland down the street from the Lions, do stop and sample an island specialty: bubbling toenjang tchigae (soybean-paste stew, with vegetables plus local clams, mussels, and prawns) for $4.15 at a simple eatery called Jin Ju. The cook's peppery $3.25 kimchi tchigae (cabbage stew) is also a treat. Or get a taxi ($1.10 within town) to take you to the local culinary landmark Gin Go Gae, where the Korean classic kalbi (barbecued beef) sizzles on a brazier right at your table and is served with an array of side dishes; you wrap the cooked beef in a lettuce leaf with some savory condiments, and dig in. As Korean meals go, it's a bit of a splurge at $10 per person -- but well worth it. Seoul for sale As profiled in our first "World's Best Bargain Shopping" article in the Summer 1999 issue, the quality of Korea's manufacturing and the strength of the U.S. dollar make for some incredible Seoul savings, especially leather and clothing for both sexes. Check out hip Myong-dong and the Nam Dae Mun street markets; for top-quality custom-made duds (how about $225 for an entire men's suit?), look up the better tailors in the Itaewon shopping/entertainment district. Korea counseling All calls to South Korea need to be preceded by 011-82, then the area code minus the initial zero. There's a 13-hour time difference from the U.S. East Coast, 10 hours from the West Coast. For general information, contact the Korean National Tourism Organization (with branches in Chicago, Los Angeles, and New York): 800/868-7567; knto.or.kr. In Seoul, 10 Da-dong, Chung-gu; 02/757-0086, fax 02/777-0102. Getting there Six airlines have service from the U.S., including nonstops on KAL (800/438-5000; koreanair.com) and Asiana (800/227-4262; asiana.co.kr); others include United and Northwest. Current consolidator and online fares can be as low as $700 from the East Coast, $500 from the West. A small number of packages are available, such as Asiana/Asian Holidays' "Shopper's Heaven" tour: air plus two nights in a top Seoul hotel for $699 from the West Coast (800/871-9700). Getting around Intercity ground transport is reasonably priced. The trip from Seoul to Kyongju, for example, takes about four to four-and-a-half hours, with one-way bus fares starting at $11 and train at $17.50. The one-hour flight to the nearest airport, at Pusan (an hour's drive from Kyongju), costs $39 each way. Flying is the only practical way to get to Cheju Island from Seoul; it also takes an hour and costs about $51 one-way. Vouchers for the Korea Rail Pass can be purchased in the U.S, through American Tour Consulting (703/256-8944 or 800/535-7552); a three-day pass good for travel on any train in the country costs $40. Lodging leads Korea Hotel Reservations Center (in U.S., 800/251-4848, fax 914/426-7338; khrc.com). Korean Youth Hostel Association (02/725-3031, fax 02/725-3113). LABO homestay programs (02/817-4625; fax 02/813-7047; labostay.or.kr). Korea Budget Inns Reservation Center (02/757-0086; fax 02/777-0102; knto.or.kr), Korea Lodging Reservation Center (ktell.com) Seoul hotels (area code 02) Hamilton Hotel (119-25 Itaewon-Dong, Yong San-Ku. 794-0171; fax 795-0457). Han Hung Jang Yogwan (99 Kwanhoon-Dong, Jongro-Ku. 734-4265) Kwan Hoon Jang Yogwan (95 Kwanhoon-Dong, Jongro-Ku. 732-1682). Metro Hotel (199-33, Eulchi-Ro, 2-Ka, Choong-Ku. 752-1112; fax 757-4411). Hotel Savoy (23-1, 1-Ka, Chumgmu-Ro, Choong-Ku. 776-2641; fax 755-7669; savoy.co.kr). Seoul restaurants Morangak (corner of Chungmuro and Fashion Streets, Myongdong. 777-2343). Myongdong Kyoja (25 Myongdong 2-ga. 776-5348). Myongdong Chigae (off Myongdong 2-ga. 752-6800). Sok Jung (193-1 Insa-dong, Chongnogu. 734-0916). Kyongju hotels (area code 0561) Bomun Shillajang (243-5 Hwangoh-dong, downtown. 749-6622). Swiss Rosen Hotel (242-19 Shinpyong-dong, Pomun Lake. 748-4848; fax 748-0094). Pomun Grace Hotel (242-14 Shinpyong-dong, Pomun Lake. 745-0404; fax 745-0409). Kyongjur restaurants Chang-u-dong (89 Nodong-dong, downtown. 772-2692). Won Pung (Hwangnam-dong, near downtown. 772-8630). Cheju hotels (area code 064) Hotel Cheju Core (304-13 Yon-dong, Cheju-Shi. 744-6600; fax 747-7001). City Hotel (306-13 Yon-dong, Cheju-Shi. 749-1851; fax 744-8945). Lions Hotel (803 Sogwi-dong, downtown Sogwipo. 762-4141; fax 733-3617). Hotel Napoli (587-3 Sogwi-dong, downtown Sogwipo. 733-4701; fax 733-4802). Cheju restaurants Gin Go Gae (319-23 Sogwi-dong, downtown Sogwipo (opposite Hotel Top. 733-5089). Jin Ju (313-10 Sogwi-dong, downtown Sogwipo. 762-5158).

Editor's note: This article is part one of a two-part series on India. Please visit us again on Sept. 23, to see part two on Agra and the Taj Mahal. It's early evening in Mumbai and I think to myself, if this taxi cab had legs, it would walk faster than we're moving. All around us are other cars, buzzing rickshaws and hordes of people carrying bundles in their arms and on their heads. I am sweating profusely as a child beggar appears at the window, palm open, eyes beseeching. She is nearly run over by a gleaming blue BMW driven by a guy who looks like he's about 19, perhaps one of the country's newly-minted software magnates. Suddenly a song pops into my head: Sunrise, burning heat Nothing is as traveled as a Bombay street Contradictions, city of extremes Anything is possible in Bombay dreams City of extremes. How true. With this cheery refrain from the Broadway hit Bombay Dreams in my mind I think to myself how perfectly Mumbai (or Bombay, as it used to be called) merges its unique extremes, extremes which somehow coexist in a vibrant mélange of culture and history. From the shimmering glamour of Bollywood cinema to the rank sprawl of Asia's largest slum, the city is indeed an experience in contrasts. Sitting in traffic I realize that anyplace else, I'd probably be in a lousy mood about it all. But to be honest, this is some of the most interesting traffic I've ever been in. The window of our cab is like a TV, broadcasting a fascinating documentary on daily life in one of the world's most interesting and complex cities. I have been here for three days already and have to confess that the city is growing on me. The complexities of the city While most travelers who come to Mumbai will continue on to other destinations within the sub-continent, Mumbai is, without a doubt, worth at least a few days of your time. The city can be frustrating and overwhelming, but it is never boring. The crowds and chaos of Mumbai can perplex even the savviest traveler. (In fact, Mumbai is projected to be the world's second most populous city, surpassing Mexico City by 2015). But adjust to the rhythm and thrum of Mumbai, and you'll soon find yourself pleasantly surprised. And while Mumbai is more expensive than other places in India, the budget-minded traveler will find that the city is easy on the pocketbook. To me, Mumbai seems far larger in reality than it appears on the map. It took us almost two days just to get oriented to the city, which, unlike the mostly grid-like layout of cities like New York or Los Angeles, is organized in a more haphazard fashion, with some of the streets looking on a map like the scribbles of a child. Part of this is due to the city's geography. Mumbai itself is actually a network of islands with bridges connecting one another and to the mainland. The core of the city can be found downtown, where the city forms a claw around Back Bay on the Arabian Sea. Colaba, as the southern peninsula is called, is the tourist Mecca where most travelers find accommodation and where there is a broad range of hotels, bars, bookstores and restaurants. Like much of Mumbai, the streets here are teeming with eager wallahs (peddlers), eager to hawk their wares, which range from piquant street dishes to books to basic household items. Despite a reputation for over-priced accommodation, there are actually good deals to be found all over the city. Down in the Colaba area hotels near the water can run from $30 to $250 a night. Further uptown in the Juhu Beach area, where we stayed, we spent about $60 a night for a very spacious and comfortable room just a minute's walk to the beach. For fans of Indian food, Mumbai is a gustatory delight. It's a piece of cake to find restaurants serving all sorts of regional dishes that will boggle the palate. Dishes from Kashmir, Tamil, Hyderabad and Punjab will astonish those whose notions of Indian food are limited to Tandoori Chicken to Tikka Masala. And while you will find plenty of amazing Indian food almost anywhere in the city, Mumbai is a cosmopolitan town and has a sampling of just about every type of cuisine, from Chinese to American to French. Your best deals, if your stomach can handle it, are probably to be found on the street or at Chowpatty Beach, where an unbelievable array of quick, delicious meals can be found for around a dollar: kanji vada (Indian doughnuts), aloo tikkis (potato snacks) and pao bhaji (fried bread with filling). On the beach, the bhelpuri shops hawking Mumbai's most popular snack (puffed rice, fried noodles, and vegetables in a mint, chili, and tamarind sauce) should not be missed. What to do? Of course, every traveler has their own philosophy for how to approach a new city. Some arrive with elaborate itineraries and detailed maps marked up red pen. Some arrive in a new place and just throw themselves into the scrum. While nothing beats having a good map and a guidebook, to me wandering is the best policy. When I hit a new city, especially one as dynamic as Mumbai, the first thing I do is generally throw out any detailed game plan and I wander. Our first day touring in Mumbai, we hired a cab off the street -- negotiating our driver's services for the entire day for about $15 -- and headed downtown. Traffic was typically abysmal, but our driver knew the roads to take and we were afforded a quick and dirty tour of some of Mumbai's more diverse neighborhoods, ranging from the foul, disheveled train track slums at Dadar, to the swanky abodes of Mumbai's elite on Malabar Hill, where some of the city's wealthiest denizens call home. Driving along the broad, coast-hugging lanes of Marine Drive, we got a glimpse on the left of the 500-year old Hajji Ali Tomb, a magnificent Muslim shrine surrounded by water. I was perplexed how anyone could reach the building since there didn't seem to be any boats around and the tomb itself appeared to float alone in the sea, but our driver said that it was high tide, when the pathway leading to the Tomb gets submerged under the water. We got out of the cab and took a stroll along the swooping promenade near Chowpatty Beach, where in front of the sun in the distance, the Mumbai skyline rose from the city in a jagged shadow. Soon, we found ourselves at the Gateway of India, the Mumbai version of the Arc de Triomphe, which squats on the water in the wonderfully named Apollo Bunder area. Erected to commemorate the landing of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911, there's not much to the arch itself, but the breeze blowing off the water and the general hullabaloo makes it an excellent place to people watch. That night, we ended up in Colaba where we ambled through the noisy neighborhoods and ended up sipping beers in a busy restaurant near the water that was popular with well-dressed business people. Hitting the markets On another day in Mumbai, we set out to explore the famous Mumbai Bazaars. Though not avid shoppers, and in search of nothing in particular, we left Juhu Beach and packed ourselves into a local city train stuffed with commuters and headed down to the famous Crawford Market. Also known as the Phule and Mohatta Market, this is an ideal place to begin exploring Mumbai street commerce because it is covered, cool, and, compared to what we'd soon face in the bazaars of Kalbadevi, one of Mumbai's hectic marketplaces, it is by comparison sedate. The market was built by the British in 1871, and its setting is a beautiful Victorian style building whose soaring clock tower looks like it belongs on the Thames. We entered the market and were immediately surrounded, marinated almost, with the fragrances of fresh fruit and flowers. The fruit sellers were paragons of mercantile gentility, whose wares were meticulously arranged in brilliant rows, pyramids and geometrically perfect towers that would have made Euclid proud. We strolled through the market savoring the delicious air and dodging fast-footed coolies carrying reed-baskets on their heads. We bought some mangoes for a quarter then passed through the back to the animal and poultry section, where live domestic and exotic animals are kept in dingy cages, waiting to be bought by locals for food and as pets, and perhaps to infuriate visiting members of the ASPCA. Adventures in wandering By now, we felt prepped enough to move on to something more challenging. We decided to head a few blocks north to the sprawling bazaar of Kalbadevi. This labyrinthine warren of stalls and street sellers is not for the faint of heart. This predominantly Muslim area is a seething mass of people and traffic and is the location of a dozen or so crowded chowks (bazaars) selling jewelry, textiles, metal and leather goods, hand-made ceramics, electronics . . . just about anything, and all of it for the most part quite cheap. The most famous is the Chor Bazaar, Mumbai's "thieves' market," which sells antiques, faux antiques and miscellaneous junk (and I do mean miscellaneous . . . it sometimes hard to tell exactly what an item's purpose is). The noise here is unreal, with merchants yelling over one another to get your attention ("Sir, sir! No buy, just look!"), and goods-laden coolies screaming at you to get out of their way. But we wandered without purpose and soon were addicted to the throbbing energy of the place. At one point, heading down some dark corridor, we realized we had no idea where we were, or which direction we'd come from. We were lost. Our entreaties for directional succor were largely met with dull stares, if not derisive smirks. At one point, we ended up in a shadowy dead end, where a huge white cow and an ornate temple shrouded in incense smoke caused us to wonder if we'd just stepped through a time portal. We finally got our bearings and made it out of the market, exhausted but safe. A bottle of cold beer in a nearby pub helped bring us back to our senses and into this century. To aid the process, that evening we caught a Bollywood film whose plot was allegedly James Bond-ish, but left us trying to recall any Bond film featuring 007 in an elaborate dance number. We could think of none. No matter. We'd be leaving Mumbai the next morning, and I was already starting to miss the place; not the din, or the traffic or the swampy heat, but just the zest of the place, and the realization that no place on earth is quite like it.

Standing outside the village of Romuna, I bear the traditional sevu sevu (offering): a bundle of kava or yaqona root (pulverized and mixed with water, both look and taste like mud to outsiders but are nectar to Fijians). The beverage is an integral ingredient of any ceremony-indeed, of daily life - and a means of bonding with newcomers. A local, Simon, whom I'd met at my hotel, acts as my mana (advocate), initiating a ritualistic dialogue with the chief in the main bure (typical hut, with bamboo walls, woven mats, and classic - and increasingly rare-cathedral thatching). Cups of kava are served from a bowl beautifully carved from tanoa, a native dark wood. I clap once, drink, clap three times again according to custom, then watch a meke, a joyous folkloric song and dance accompanied by the percussive lali (a hollowed tree trunk). I'm asked to join in, and an unlikely, sweatily vigorous line dance ensues. Cost of the experience for our group of six: US$10 for the pound of kava (the price had just doubled, since herbal pharmaceutical companies are now exporting it hand over fist as a stress reliever). That tradition of hospitality prevails throughout Fiji, an archipelago of more than 300 islands (only one third inhabited), covering 426,000 square miles. A century-old British colony that became independent in 1970, its culture has remained intact, which helps account for its affordability. TV didn't arrive until 1990 (and McDonald's in 1996), so the islands attracted either backpackers or fabulously wealthy people to a few get-away-from-it-all private resorts. Traditional chiefs still own most of the land, and international companies must enter into a legal agreement with a local resident - meaning fewer sprawling deluxe properties. Instead, cheaper facilities - many appealing to cost-conscious divers-sprang up, in marked contrast to destinations like Hawaii and Tahiti. The ten-hour flight from Los Angeles discourages many Americans, leaving Fiji more to rambunctious Aussies and restrained young Japanese on low-cost package deals. This hospitality also made Fiji legendary among the international grunge set, some of whom took advantage of the Fijian concept of kere kere, or shared property: what's mine is yours. If when visiting a village you express interest, the chief may invite you to attend a lovo feast (tubers, fish, and meats swaddled in banana leaves and cooked in an underground pit) or even to stay with a family, sleeping on a bark-cloth mattress stuffed with dried coconut fibers. "Going native" remains an honored form of travel, and amazingly cheap: many locals still feel uncomfortable accepting money, because the entire village is an extended home and you're their guest. Be careful admiring something, as many Fijians will feel obligated to give it to you; rather than offering cash for your stay, buy a T-shirt, groceries, or ask the family what they would like. But you can just as easily "rough it" in contemporary or colonial-era hotels for as little as US$15 (one greenback is worth roughly two Fiji dollars; prices below are U.S.) or stay in your own fully equipped modern if basic home for $25-right on or near a beach. Dorm-style digs run as little as $5 per person ($12 including meals). Although the people who arrived on these shores first are Melanesian, approximately half the population is East Indian (Hindu and Moslem). Their ancestors were brought in as forced labor for the sugarcane fields in the nineteenth century. Political turmoil, as the Indians demanded greater self-determination, scared off many travelers in the 1980s - another reason Fiji remains low on the tourism radar for Americans-but a new constitution has fostered peace and stability. Many towns have elaborate Hindu temples and onion-domed mosques with minarets, exotic contrasts to typical Fijian bures. That diversity is also reflected in the cuisine: curry shacks are common (as are inexpensive Chinese and pizza restaurants). At these lowest-cost eateries, full meals average $4-$8; Fijian dishes are slightly more expensive, though worth sampling, especially kokoda (seafood marinated in coconut, lime, and coriander) and wahoo steamed in lolo (coconut cream). Veni, Vidi, Viti Levu The easiest way to vacation in Fiji is to stay on the main island of Viti Levu. Roughly 10,000 square miles, it provides a microcosm of the archipelago's appeal: pristine beaches along the Coral Coast, the teeming colonial capital of Suva, a jumping-off point for exploring nearby islands on day trips, and a range of eco-adventures from trekking in mountains that tower to 5,000 feet to white-water kayaking down surprisingly fierce rivers to diving the renowned Beqa Lagoon with its currents, dramatic drop-offs, and riotously colored soft corals. The centrally located Coral Coast is an ideal base, from which you can visit Suva for a day, then overnight on the historic island of Ovalau (a $27 one-way flight from Suva). International flights arrive at the Nadi (pronounced "NAN-dee") airport, usually in the middle of the night. At the airport's tiny tourist office, helpful staffers provide recommendations, even make calls; brochure racks climb like ivy up the walls, containing all conceivable information on lodging, sight-seeing, dining, and car rentals (including a few coupons). Regrettably, the town of Nadi is a bustling, congested, grubby bazaar of handicraft shops, Fijian fast-food joints, and markets; the main "sight" is its extraordinary multicolor temple. Still, it's best to decompress at an airport motel, then get a fresh start the next day. The best value is the New Nadi Bay Hotel (723-599, fax 720-092)*, with 24 snug rooms and apartments decorated in soft pastels; doubles with fans are $34 ($42 with air-conditioning). The area does boast attractions (and comparatively pricier beachfront lodgings for the severely jet-lagged) worth visiting before leaving. Fortunately, Viti Levu is easy to negotiate. The island is ringed by one main drag, called King's Road in the north, Queen's in the south. The southern shoreline runs from Nadi past the Coral Coast to Suva. The northern coast is unspoiled but far less accessible (roads are frequently rained out); though there are numerous hotel bargains, they're generally shabbier than their southern counterparts, and restaurants scarcer. The cheapest way to navigate the southern coast is via bus, which is also a perfect introduction to the friendly locals (expect village invitations and an endearing curiosity manifested in often ingenuously personal questions). You could circumnavigate Viti Levu for $5; service is slow but regular throughout the day and evening hours. Every village has a bus stop (though you can hail the glorified safari vans from the highway); Nadi and Suva have mini-depots. Rental cars offer more freedom and can go as low as $10 per day plus 17 per mile for a small car without air-conditioning, up to $35 for a Toyota Corolla. Gas is expensive-approximately $3 a gallon-figure $30 for the Nadi/Suva round trip. A valid U.S. drivers' license is required and driving is on the left. The usual names - Avis, Hertz, Budget - have Nadi and Suva airport offices. Singatoka/Coral Coast, Viti Levu: Sandy, low-cost catches Some of Viti Levu's finest beaches lie southeast of Nadi, accessible only via dirt tracks from Queens Road, including the gorgeous Natadola ("nah-tahn-DOH-lah"), where tour operators offer day trips, including lunch and horseback riding, for about $25. Buses are infrequent; a rental car is advisable. The next major town, Singatoka ("sing-a-TOH-kah"), marks the beginning of the Coral Coast, an almost unbroken scimitar of palm-shadowed sand running to Pacific Harbour, a modern development with an 18-hole golf course, resorts, condos, a cultural center, and little genuine appeal. Several properties and eateries cluster across the street from the sand in the next village, Korotogo ("koh-roh-TONG-oh"), whose beach could be better maintained. The best buy is the Casablanca Hotel (520-600, fax 520-616), halfheartedly Moorish and sitting atop a hill overlooking the sea amid two acres of overgrown gardens. Immaculate if narrow efficiencies-tiled, fully equipped, and modern, with local touches like bark-cloth wall hangings-are $29. Waratah Lodge (500-278) is composed of three A-frames in Christmas colors crawling with hibiscus and bougainvillea; $30 duplexes with fans and aging kitchens sleep six to nine. Both have pools, BBQs, and bike rentals. A half block away, Le Caf, (520-877) and Sinbad Pizzahouse (520-600) both offer unusual pizzas as well as curries, grilled chicken, and seafood for $3-$8. This area is more memorable for its side attractions. The fertile, meandering Singatoka Valley is nicknamed the "Salad Bowl" of Fiji; take a cruise along the Singatoka River under a canopy of lush, sun-filtered vegetation or haggle with a spearfisherman to take you out on a traditional bilibili, a bamboo raft. The villages along the river are renowned for their pottery, fashioned from the rich red earth, while the tawny, 100-foot-high Sigatoka Sand Dunes comprise Fiji's first national park. The beach widens as you approach Suva, with excellent offshore snorkeling. Tubukula Beach Bungalows (500-097, fax 340-236) provides clean if spartan lodgings, from dorms ($7.25) to fully equipped multi-bedroom units ($28-$44, depending on size and beach proximity), as well as activities and a mini-mart. This is one of the properties, ranging from beach bungalows to air-conditioned hotels, endorsed by the Fiji For Less organization (340-211, fax 340-236; or in the U.S. fax 310/362-8493; fiji4less.com), affiliated with several backpacker and hosteling associations. Gorgeous landscaping and beach; warm Aussie owners; lively clientele; free bikes, bush walks, and canoes; and cheap meals ($1.50 breakfast, $1.50-$4 buffet and full meals like lasagna or tuna fettucine) are the lure of Beach House (530-500, fax 530-450). Lodgings are adequate, with cramped, shared-bath loft doubles $19, dorms $8.25, and camping $5. For a splurge, the local-style bures of intimate yet full-service Tambua Sands Beach Resort (500-399, fax 520-265) are cheerful, with fridges and ceiling fans; oceanview bures are $45 (two meals daily cost $11 per person extra). The grounds and beach are lovely; the restaurant-decorated with local crafts-offers nightly entertainment; and activities range from coconut husking (free) to horseback riding ($4.50). Suva, Viti Levu: A really capital mishmash Fiji's steamy capital of Suva (population 120,000) is a bizarre mix of colonial and contemporary, of traffic jams and tranquil gardens, with the appealingly tatty air of an old-time sailor's port of call and ethnic crossroads (the disco and clubs lined up on the main drag tell it all: Bourbon and Blues, O'Reillys, Bad Dog Cafe, Traps). Graceful Victorian government edifices alternate with cinder-block office buildings and hotels. It's not necessarily worth an overnight, but you can take in the sights during the day and catch the 5 p.m. flight for Ovalau. Some might enjoy checking out Suva's slightly seedy but colorful nightlife, then grabbing the 7:45 a.m. early bird or a ferry/cargo boat. Patterson Brothers Shipping (315-644) is reliable and comfortable; most boats have VCRs and refreshments, and one-way fares start at $12 (they run car ferries, too). Stop by the bustling public market, with produce from around the islands. Then visit the excellent Fiji Museum, nestled in the impeccably landscaped Thurston Gardens. It provides a superb glimpse into the origins and culture of Fiji, from a great oceangoing war canoe to traditional native costumes and more gruesome historic relics (Fijians were considered the world's fiercest cannibals a mere century ago). There are also galleries celebrating Indian culture, rotating crafts exhibits, and artisans engaged in demonstrations. Prices are lower and quality higher for authentic crafts at actual villages. But you'll find the widest selection in the bustling Handicraft Centre (really just a place to gather aggressive pushcart peddlers) by the waterfront. Bargaining is expected, but beware "sword sellers," who will ask your name, then instantly carve it on a wooden sword or tanoa bowl and expect you to buy it. Also, even some genuine pieces are often emblazoned "FIJI." Local restaurants run the gamut, but the best are Asian; try Sichuan Pavilion (corner of Pier and Thompson streets, 314-865), elegant in lacquer and mirrors but quite reasonable, with entrees starting at $4. To lay down your head, the South Seas Private Hotel (312-296, fax 340-236) is a turn-of-the-century wooden building in a peaceful residential area within walking distance of city center; plain rooms with fans and private baths are $19. Ovalau: Old-time offshore charm Just a few miles and a hundred years offshore from Suva lies Ovalau, site of Fiji's first capital, Levuka. An official candidate for designation as UNESCO World Heritage Site in honor of its cultural and historic importance, it's an indescribably charming town of peeling clapboard houses and crooked sidewalks. The oldest (1850s) hotel and drinking club in the South Pacific - and straight out of a Somerset Maugham novel - the Royal Hotel (440-024, fax 440-174) has doubles with bath, ceiling fan, enclosed patio, uneven hardwood floors, and four-poster or brass beds for $14-$17. Nearby, the dilapidated but atmospheric Ovalau Club (440-507), founded in 1904, sports yellowed photos of royal coronations and weddings, and nautical banners from around the world. Beach Street, Levuka's restored waterfront, is now practically a promenade, where kids play soccer with coconut husks while women sell fruit under banyan trees circled by squawking mynah birds. Also here are three marvelous restaurants. Caf, Levuka (no phone) prepares full dinners like papaya prawns or chili and garlic pork for $5; breakfasts and lunches are even less. Kim's (440-059) is harshly lit but gussied up with Chinese New Year's dragon wall hangings and Christmas lights year-round, and serves up sumptuous Chinese/Fijian/Indian/European buffets Sunday nights for $5.50, all you can eat. The "gourmet" spot is Whale's Tale (440-235), with a nautical theme (driftwood, whale photos, dried sea fans, thatch-and-bamboo bar) and Fiji-tinged Continental fare-$6.50 for a three-course dinner (delicious chicken in kumquat sauce with garlic bread). The owner's Australian husband, Arnold Ditrich, is the island's self-professed kava "dealer"; a bowl is always being emptied at the back table. Ovalau's few beaches are tiny and black-sand (one reason it lacks a tourism infrastructure), but it's surrounded by unspoiled keys and pockmarked with underwater caves and mangrove channels. Sea kayaking is popular, as is mountain biking, through Ovalau Transport and Tours (440-611, fax 440-405, ecotoursfiji.com), which also organizes "Tea and Talanoa" chats with delightfully eccentric locals and expats. Wrapping up in Nadi Since return American flights depart at night, you can explore the Nadi area before leaving. Just north is the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, Raymond Burr's astonishing terraced gardens showcasing lily ponds and over 2,000 varieties of orchid from around the world (buses stop there and at Visisei village, reputed landing place of the first Fijians, for roughly 50[cents]). Trekkers can experience the Abaca Village & Koroyanitu National Heritage Park (666-644; $6 includes guide and round-trip transport from Lautoka), a tropical rain forest with glittering 100-foot waterfalls framed by black volcanic mountains and lava outcroppings. Abaca ("am-BAH-tha") is one of a few isolated villages that host a work/stay program. For $15, you hike with a guide, perform typical tasks like tilling fields or beating laundry on rocks in a stream, then eat and sleep with a family. One caveat: the ride up the rutted dirt road in a cushionless safari van alone qualifies as adventure travel. Many travelers prefer ending (or starting) their trip on the water. The best nearby beach accommodations are at Club Fiji (702-189, fax 702-324), which attracts a youthful international crowd to its 12 acres and 24 traditional thatched bures with hardwood floors, ceiling fans, fridges, verandahs, private baths, and seashell color schemes. Beachfront lodgings cost $44, but identical "oceanview" bures offer a sliver of sea view for $35; dorm rooms ($5.50 per person) are further from the beach. On premises are full water sports (free), a dive shop, and an excellent restaurant - with everything from tacos to pizzas, starting at $4. For a more Robinson Crusoe feel, you can also stay on one of the Mamanucas, flat coral keys tossed casually into the Pacific off Nadi like a luminous strand of pearls. The best value is Ratu Kini's (721-959), owned by the chief of Mana island; its basic thatched bures with bath run $44-$56, bountiful buffet meals included. If you enjoy your Fijian experience, you can explore the other main islands (Kadavu, Taveuni, Vanua Levu), all remarkably lush, mountainous, with world-famous dive sites, and even less developed for tourism. Indeed, that bundle of kava costs more these days than many basic digs. Further Fiji facts Contact the Fiji Visitors Bureau (5777 W. Century Blvd., Ste. 220, Los Angeles, CA 90045; 800/932-3454, 310/568-1616; bulafiji.com). Another helpful Web site is City.Net Fiji, at city.net.countries.fiji. Fiji flights Air Pacific (800/227-4446) offers direct flights from Los Angeles, starting at $699 round-trip. The two domestic airlines, Air Fiji (877/AIR-FIJI, airfiji.net) and Sunflower Airlines (800/294-4864), offer dependable, comprehensive service between Nadi and Suva and most of the islands on various smaller aircraft; tickets start at $25 one-way; ask about special off-peak rates during the week.

Reid Bramblett and Jason Cochran answered your questions about traveling to Thailand Tuesday, July 6, at noon EST. Reid Bramblett holds the somewhat dubious distinction of having authored both The Complete Idiot's Travel Guide to Europe and Europe for Dummies. His love affair with Europe began at age 11 when his family moved to Rome and proceeded to spend much of the next two years exploring Europe in a hippie-orange VW campervan. Reid experienced a budget continent of campgrounds and picnics with the locals, though mostly he remembers having to sleep in the VW's moldy pop-top. After a brief stint as an editorial assistant at a travel publisher, began writing European guidebooks for Frommer's, Dorling Kindersley's Eyewitness, Idiot's, and For Dummies. He joined the Budget Travel editorial staff in 2002. He champions such underdog Irish causes as real ales, traditional Celtic music, Irish cheeses, hurling (that's a Gaelic sport, not what happens after too many whiskeys), pub grub, and tramping around bogs and wind-bitten downs in search of ancient tombs. Jason Cochran is Senior Editor of Budget Travel magazine. In addition to writing for publications such as Entertainment Weekly, The Village Voice, and Arena, he wrote questions for the first season of ABC's Who Wants to Be a Millionaire. He recently spent two years backpacking around the world, visiting six continents and over 40 countries. A current resident of New York City, he has also lived in Chicago, Atlanta, Key West, and Cape Town, South Africa. _______________________ Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Hello! We're both online and primed to answer your every question about the beauty and appeal of Thailand. We'll get started right away: _______________________ Towson, MD: Hello to you both...Can you list the top five absolute MUST SEES in Thailand? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason here. I've gotten this question many times. Naturally, it's a matter of taste, but here are my top five, which hit many of the bases and span the country: Bangkok: Wat Phra Kaeo and The Grand Palace: This luxurious, over-the-top complex of royal pavilions (check out those fantastic gilded sculptures!) is home of the famous Emerald Buddha (actually made of jade) and once the stomping grounds of the King of Siam, fictionalized by Yul Brynner. Nearby is Wat Pho, which houses the enormous Reclining Buddha. The huts on the grounds are the best place to get a cheap traditional Thai massage. The price? About $5 for an hour. Chiang Mai: In northern Thailand, a city of monasteries, busy markets, and tourist-friendly courses in everything from Thai cooking to Thai massage. It's also the gateway to the jungles of Hill Country. The islands: Each island suits a different taste, from the youth-oriented party isle of Ko Phagnan and Ko Samui to the more upscale, top-drawer resorts of Phuket. Sands are soft, waters are warm. (We sort through the identity of each of these islands in Budget Travel's July/August issue, on sale now.) Sukhothai: The ruins of a city that until the 15th century served as the first capital of Siam, during the peak of its power in the region. Like Angkor Wat, it lay undisturbed in the jungle until the nineteenth century, but unlike its Cambodian counterprt, it's now well-kept, landscaped, and easy for travelers of any age or physical ability to navigate. It gives a peek into Thailand's long and varied history. Kanchanaburi: Toss in a little recent history at the site of the infamous Bridge on the River Kwai, where the Japanese drove Allied soliders and hundreds of thousands of Asians into slavery and starvation to create a short-lived railway line. Lest you get too depressed at the painful wartime memories, the area is beautiful, with caves, raging rivers, and lush jungle national parks nearby. Tourists who come for the bridge, turn around, and return to Bangkok are really missing something. _______________________ Cabin John, MD: Reid, Have you seen or heard of $500 RT fares to Thailand (from NYC)? Someone told me they saw that, but could not remember where. Seems like an urban myth, but I thought I'd ask. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: That would be a great fare, but not one that'll come along very often. (We saw a lot of those types of tickets last year, when the specter of SARS, war in Iraq, and general vague terrorism fears were keeping people away from travel in general and Asia in particular in droves.) We've had a lot of questions about how to find cheap tickets or any ongoing sales, so here's a blanket answer. You have to do your homework. Don't just run a query through Expedia, Orbitz, and Travelocity. Double-check those with sidestep.com (only for PC users), and at cheapflights.com. Check out the sales pages at all the major US airlines -- but don't forget to surf over to the Asian airlines as well, such as Cathay Pacific, Singapore Air, and (naturally) Thai Airways. Right now, Cathay Pacific is selling roundtrip from Sept through Nov for $636 from LA or San Francisco, $806 from New York's JFK (book by July 31). You should be able to find fares in the $600 to $700 range from Los Angeles, about $100 more from New York (it'll be a bit more difficult to match these up with airfare to LA or NYC from somewhere else in the US, but major airlines all have intertwining alliances that should help). _______________________ Kennewick, WA: Is the second half of April really a horrible time to go weather-wise? What should we expect at that time of the year versus, say mid-January? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: In April, expect intense heat and humidity. I'm not being facetious -- Bangkok in April, right before the rainy season kicks in, can be oppressive to even those used to tropical climates, and the searing glare of the sun can turn an idle sightseeing stroll into a grueling trudge. It's still do-able (I myself have tramped around the country at that time of year -- boy, what an exotic way to lose weight!), but for more reasonable temperatures, December and January are the better months. (Jason) _______________________ Los Angeles, CA: My friend and I are interested in traveling to Thailand with very little itinerary. For example, not booking hotels or ground transportation in advance. We basically want to fly in, go where the wind takes us, and fly out. We're extremely adventurous and flexible, and believe this attitude will add to our experience. Others think we're being irresponsible. Any thoughts or suggestions? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason here: Yes -- I think that's a terrific idea. Frankly, most of the international budget travelers who are touring Thailand right now (Australian, British, Kiwi, etc.) are doing so on the fly. Since Thailand's tourist industry caters so heavily to independent travelers, it's enormously easy to pick up ideas and change your direction. When it comes to travel, Thailand is a very informal country. Bus tickets can be purchased minutes before departure, plane tickets can be had hours before takeoff, and at every train station, proprietors of guesthouses will forever be clamoring for your custom. Everywhere you stay (particularly in tourist hubs like Khao San Road in Bangkok), you'll hear tips and suggestions from your fellow travelers ("Don't go there -- it's not worth it" or "Don't miss this little town we found!") that will enrich your travels. My first trip to Thailand was completely unplanned. I arranged a plane ticket to land me in Bangkok and another to fly me out of Singapore a little over a month later. I filled my time once I arrived and I never got crowded out of something I wanted to see. If you're as adventurous as you claim, I dare say that you may even be a little surprised by how well-trod Thailand has become and how easy it is to tour. Die-hard travelers, in fact, report a little annoyance with how easy Thailand is these days. _______________________ Boston, MA: I know Thailand's a very popular destination these days: what are the most over-rated or over-touristed sights I should avoid? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason: Some people may want to smack me for saying this, but I am not a big fan of some of the markets held around the country, particularly the night markets in Chiang Mai and in Bangkok's Patpong. They are decidedly touristy. Visitors usually come away with overpriced Chinese-made trinkets or ridiculous souvenirs that, once they get home, will never see the light of day. The one great thing about many of the markets, though, is that they serve inexpensive and fantastic food. If you go to a market, go to eat. Reid: The Bridge on the River Kwai. It's got a fantastic story behind it, but it's just an iron bridge over a river. It's not about the beauty of Thailand. It can be a moving experience, but if you're choosing it over a true antiquity such as Ayutthaya or Sukhothai, you're selling yourself short. _______________________ Camp Verde, AZ: Is the language going to pose problems ? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Not really. English has become the world's common tongue, and you'll find it spoken (or broken, which is usually good enough) just about everywhere -- especially on the tourist circuit. Outside of America, most people are used to interacting with people who don't speak their languages. Most countries are small and most languages are spoken only locally, so people like the Thai know how to communicate with foreigners without using a common tongue. International tourism is big business in Thailand, so language barriers don't present much of a problem. You'll be fine. _______________________ New York, NY: I am getting married in Thailand in January. We are going on our honeymoon in the islands then. What 3 islands would you recommend for a romantic honeymoon? Also, do you know a good place to find elaborate Thai flatware in Bangkok? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: First off, congratulations! Thailand can be a terribly romantic spot, and January is a great time to go, weather-wise. Picking an island is a pretty personal thing, and depends on what sorts of things and what kind of scene you are into. You can get the gist of five of them in my article in this month's BT magazine, which is also available on this site today (msnbc.msn.com/id/5023648). For utter romance? Definitely skip Phuket, which is overbuilt and overrun with tourists. Ko Samui has a well-developed infrastructure, and plenty of sightseeing opportunities as well, but for some it's getting a little too commercial (nothing like Phuket yet, though). I'd stay steer clear of Ko Phangan as well, unless you guys are ravers (every full moon, the beach at Hat Rin becomes a raging party of booze and designer drugs with thousands of 20-somethings jumping to trance beats; happens again on the half-moon). Ko Phi Phi is getting a bit crowded, but is still stunningly beautiful. If all you're looking for is a lot of sun, sand, and time to spend alone together, my pick would be Ko Lanta. It retains that feel of being all by yourself out on a tropical Asian isle, utterly relaxing, wither perfect surf and temperatures. A true dream destination, and the sum of what the Thai isles are supposed to be all about. As for flatware in Bangkok, I'm afraid I haven't a clue. One place I'd suggest to start is at the government-run Narayana Phand, a kind of department store of traditional Thai crafts at 127 Rajadamri Road (between Petchaburi Rd. and Ploenchit Rd., just down from the Grand Hyatt Erawan). They have the highest quality everything on 3-4 floors. I don't recall seeing flatware (probably because I wasn't looking), but there was loads of tableware and other ceramics (along with silks, carved wood, statues, musical instruments, and a hundred other artisan items), so it's a good bet. (Funny aside: my girlfriend and I actually ate with some gorgeous flatware in Le Grand Bleu restaurant on Ko Phi Phi -- forks and spoons so nice we both actually commented on them [not normally our sort of dinner table conversation]. Another couple in the restaurant clearly felt the same way, as we overheard them asking the waiter where the utensils came from and then interrupted their meal to bustle up the street to that shop. However, once we actually started eating with the things, they turned out to be incredibly conductive of heat -- uncomfortable to hold in our hands, and burning our lips. I guess the lesson is: buyer beware.) _______________________ Fort Worth, TX: My husband and I will be in Bangkok the first week of October. We have 2 days of sightseeing planned for the city, but have a 3rd day open for an excursion outside of Bangkok. Ayutthaya has been offered as a possible excursion, and I've heard it's worth seeing, but we are more interested in flying from Bangkok to Cambodia to see Angkor Wat. Would it be worth it for us to try to see as much as possible of Angkor Wat in one day, or are we better off going to Ayutthaya, since it is closer to Bangkok and takes less time than Angkor Wat? Thank you. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: While it is possible to fly from Bangkok to Angor Wat and back in one day, you'd only get a few hours in the complex -- a complex which covers 300 square kilometers! There's a reason tickets are only sold for three-day and seven-day entry periods; it's impossible to do the site any sort of justice in less time. Save it for next trip, and spend the extra day exploring Ayutthaya, as you said, or just hanging around Bangkok. Two days is already barely long enough for such a fascinating city. Ride a long boat through the khlong (canals) that thread through the city. Wander the residential neighborhood of northern Banglamphu where folks still live in wooden houses and play out their lives in courtyards and narrow alleys. Return to Wat Po for an hour-long, full-body Thai massage. Go shopping for traditional crafts in the Siam Square area. Browse the markets. Visit temples. Cruise the river on the public ferries. Bangkok hides a thousand delights; you just have to take the time to discover them. _______________________ Southfield, MI: Hi, is Thailand safe for a young woman to travel alone? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: As safe as you could hope for. Violent crime is quite rare in Thailand, as the local police can be quite unforgiving with lawbreakers. It tends to keep people in check. In fact, by our State Department's own admission, Bangkok's crime rate is lower than that of many American cities. Tricksters and petty thieves are more common, so thwart them with the usual precautions: Don't dally with strangers, don't accept food or drink from someone you don't know, be streetwise, and so on. Besides, there are so many independent travelers in Thailand right now, you may even find it a struggle to stay solo. It's incredibly easy to link up with other travelers, make friends, and travel as a team. And should something terrible happen, health care is amazingly inexpensive -- just a few bucks for an X-ray or a cast. It makes you wonder why we have to pay so much for the same procedures back home. _______________________ San Francisco, CA: Is Thailand safe for Americans? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: For the same reasons as above, yes. The Thai are friendly people and they have no beef with the American style of life. In fact, they're adopting it more and more. Thai shopping malls are full of multiplexes and Dairy Queens and one-hour photo shops, and every Thai teenager has a flashy cell phone glued to his or her hand. There are a few poorer areas that are experiencing some domestic problems: along the Burmese border, for example, and in the deep south of the country near the Malaysian border, but these problems have been sporadic and they have nothing to do with American tourists. (Thailand, by the way has sent -- and lost -- men in Iraq as part of the American-led coalition.) _______________________ Vernon, CT: I am headed to Thailand for 2 weeks and I have $1,500 to spend on food, hotels, etc. Do you think this is enough? Thanks. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Thailand is still wonderfully, exhilaratingly cheap. Simple hotel rooms in Bangkok and beach bungalows on the islands start at $5 to $10 -- maybe as much as $10 to $20 for really nice mid-scale places. Full meals start at under $1, and usually clock in around $2 to $5 (at really, really fancy places you may spend $25 per person on massive, gut-busting feasts). So yeah, you got plenty! _______________________ Edison, NJ: I am going to honeymoon in Thailand next summer (2005) for 2 to 4 weeks. Is this a bad season to go in terms of the weather? Is July better or worse than August? We are looking to stay at remote beach locations, as well as some towns and cities. What are your top 3 (or 5)? Any other suggestions? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason here: I answered a Top Five query a few entries back, but to follow on the weather-related portion of your question: Thankfully, you won't find the "monsoon" season in Thailand to be anything like the rainy season in, say, India, where life feels like a ceaseless deluge. Think of Thailand's rainy season as a relative of the rainy season in Florida, which coincidentally happens around the same period. You'll have sunny, warm days periodically interrupted with the odd heavy cloudburst and incidental tropical storm, but in general, you'll still be able to travel around the country and see what you want. Just be prepared for unexpected, warm passing downpours. If you want nearly guaranteed fine weather, go from December to February. As I also mentioned above, March to May can be insidiously hot and humid. If beach-going is part of your plan, be aware that on the southern peninsula, the weather is markedly different between the east and west coasts. On the west coast, the best time to visit is November to April, and on the east coast, the best period is May to October. The coasts aren't very far from each other, but their weather systems are worlds apart. _______________________ Floral Park, NY: I loved your article on Thailand. I am planning on going the end of August, but I heard it is monsoon season. Is this a completely bad time for me to go? I would be going to Phuket and a couple islands you wrote about. Help! Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Yeah, that is the height of Monsoon Season. That doesn't mean it'll be raining constantly or every day -- more like sudden downpours each afternoon, that they clear off to sunny again. It gets really humid, though. If you can put off the trip until November or December, so much the better. _______________________ New York, NY: I'm off to Bangkok and the southern islands in a couple weeks and wanted to know what I should pack. I don't want to lug around a lot of luggage, I was hoping to bring 2 backpacks or even one big one. Do you think this is enough? Oh, I'm going for a little over 2 weeks. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: A single backpack is ample. Thailand is a hot country, so you won't want or need much clothing. A couple of bathing suits, a few T-shirts and pairs of shorts, and a good pair of walking sandals should do you. Don't bother with make-up or elaborate evening wear; I can't foresee an occasion when you'll need to dress up -- the Thai beach towns are gloriously informal. You can buy anything else you need, from batteries to sunglasses, for next to nothing once you're there. But save a little space for the one article of clothing that will be indispensable for you: a brightly colored sarong. You can buy one for a few bucks anywhere you go, since they're on sale positively everywhere. They're the Swiss Army Knife of Thai vacation fashion; they function as skirts, they stand in for beach towels (and they dry quickly), they become headdresses when you come out of the shower, etc. The other item you'll buy there will be a ubiquitous roll-up straw mat that you will sit upon when you're on the sand. They also cost a few bucks, and one will last you two weeks. Light linen or cotton pants are also available for a few dollars everywhere -- for those times you need to cover your legs, such as in a temple. They'll be cheaply made, but they'll certainly last two weeks. _______________________ Los Angeles, CA: What's the cheapest way to get to Thailand? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: In addition to airfare sales like the stellar one we touted above, we're big fans of the cheap air-hotel packages offered by a number of companies these days. They get you discounted airfare plus a handful of nights in a hotel, and the whole package doesn't cost much more than airfare alone probably would if you bought it on your own. For example, In September and October, Go-Today.com will fly you to Bangkok and put you up in a three-star hotel for five nights for $679 double from Los Angeles. Compare that price to the rate I just got on Delta from Orbitz (the airport code for Bangkok is BKK, by the way): $678 in late September. So for $1 more, you get five nights in a hotel and a transfer from the airport in Bangkok -- not a bad deal! OctopusTravelPackages.com is selling five-night packages in four- and five-star hotels from September to November for $959 double. Most of the time, you can extend your return flight date and stick around for a while, traveling independently, but those first five nights in a paid-for hotel really help a traveler get their feet on the ground in a new country. It's an ideal set-up. _______________________ Mountain Home, ID: My husband and I are going to Thailand in mid-September. We made our travel arrangements with a travel company, Djoser. What can you tell me about this company? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Djoser (pronouned "JOE-zer"), a company that originated in the Netherlands but now has an American office, has quite a following with the tourists who have discovered it. It specializes in escorted tours (as opposed to the air-hotel packages noted earlier in our chat). Budget Travel has received many positive notices about its guides and the company's organization, so we would say it's an excellent option. If you end up going with Djoser, please send us a note and let us know what you thought of it so that we may continue to keep tabs on the quality of its tours. _______________________ Burlington, NC: Just how bad are the mosquitoes on these islands and are they seasonal? Also, is there ever any surf on Thai beaches? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: First, the little biters. Mosquitoes are a bit worse throughout Thailand during and just after the rainy season (June through October), but they are a nuisance all year round -- though the risk of catching Dengue Fever and Japanese B encephalitis from one of them is greater during the rainy season. Frustratingly, the breed of mosquitoes that's out by day can carry dengue; those out by night are the type to carry malaria, so it's no like you can trick them. It's really more a time-of-day, issue than a time-of-year one. Mosquitoes are out feeding in the early morning and again in the late afternoon/early evening. In the end, it's easiest just to plan to be indoors during these swarming hours. Also, be sure to wear long sleeves and pants as often as possible (spray them with permethrin for extra protection; you can get it at www.rei.com), bring plenty of DEET repellant for your skin, keep windows and doors closed during those morning and evening hours, and treat that mosquito netting around your bed with respect. That said, the islands are actually infinitely better than the interior when it comes to flying blood-suckers, if for no other reason than the steady light breeze off the water keeps them at bay (seriously; you can be sitting at a beachside restaurant, completely bug-free, then walk just one block inland to where the buildings cut off the breeze, and all of a sudden it's feeding time.) Speaking of beaches, no, there's no surf to speak of in Thailand; a bit during monsoon season, but really that's more of some ripples you could conceivably ride a board on, not something you'd go out of your way to do. _______________________ Hopewell Junction, NY: I will be traveling to Thailand in September. Do I have to worry about chicken virus? Should I take any precautions, like maybe not going? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: You must be referring to the headline-making avian flu. Relax -- there is no evidence that you can catch it from another human. In order to get it, you'd have to spend an awful lot of time fraternizing with chickens. As long as your accommodations aren't in a henhouse, you'll be fine. Neither the World Health Organization nor the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention -- two of the planet's most trigger-happy groups when it comes to issues of contagious disease -- have deemed the avian flu worrysome enough to issue any travel warnings. It would be a shame for you to cancel your Thai adventure because the press has failed to adequately portray the nature of the disease. For official assurances, refer to the State Department's fact sheet on the topic: travel.state.gov/avian_flu_factsheet.html _______________________ Cloverdale, CA: Hello Reid & Jason, I am going to Thailand at the end of this month for 5 months on a study abroad program at Thammasat University in Bangkok. I've read different articles about appropriate clothing for women but wondered if you can give me any insight into this. I was told that I need to bring along a "uniform" of a white shirt and a black skirt. I know you are a couple of guys, but can you tell me what would be appropriate in skirt length. Also, I have a tongue piercing. How is that looked upon? Should I remove it before I go? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: We think it's great you are being so conscious of social norms. Kudos. More people should travel as respectfully as you. Even as guys, we know to recommend that you cover as much skin as possible. At the beach, fine, wear a bikini. But in Bankgok, spend your days in pants or, when in school with that uniform code, a demure skirt down to at least mid-calf. It'd be best if you just ask the school how long a skirt is appropriate (for all we know, ankle-length is the rule; or maybe it's a ultraprogressive, miniskirt type place -- though we doubt it). Short-sleeve blouses are OK (a concession to how hot it is over there). As for the tongue stud, you're on your own. It'll definitely set you apart as one of those wacky foreigners. Your tongue is going to be punished enough by the nuclear-hot spices in the food over there, so maybe you'll want to take it out now and let the hole heal before subjecting it to Thai cooking! have a great time; we're jealous. _______________________ Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Well, that's it! We had a great time. Sorry we couldn't get to every question, but we hope this helped. Sawat dii, khap. (That's goodbye...also hello, which is a nice sentiment) _______________________