Heart and Seoul: The Affordable Taste of Korea

If you like the outdoors and have an interest in history or conservation; if you're determined to take your children on an affordable but different sort of vacation with time for bonding and sharing; or if you would simply appreciate a vacation of learning and excitement in a safe and economical environment, then it's time to "cowboy up," as they say in Texas, and contact Passport in Time. PIT needs you. Who knows-perhaps you need PIT, too. People of all ages, from all walks of life, can participate in the U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service's Passport in Time program, which matches volunteers with projects of historic preservation, conservation, restoration, and archaeology throughout the United States. A biannually published catalog of current PIT projects lists so many activities, you're sure to find one that strikes your fancy. They range from archaeology (my own interest, and the source of my examples below) to surveys of Civil War sites, restoration of ranger stations or historic sites to laboratory analysis of artifacts or other scientific data. Most projects require at least a one-week commitment. Will it dig into my budget?Volunteers are not paid, but unlike many other programs, there is no fee to join. Your expenses are those you incur traveling to the site and feeding yourself while there. Most projects offer campsites for your tent, space for your RV or car, water, hookups, and toilet facilities. PIT provides all the tools and instruction. Some projects involving intense laboratory work provide free housing for volunteers in dormitories at local universities or in barracks maintained by the Forest Service. Many sites are located close to towns, villages, or resort areas where motels or rustic cabins are also available at low prices. Generally, you're on your own for food. On some projects, participants take turns cooking for their team. On others, everyone tends to their own grocery needs. (You'll work hard if you are on outdoor projects, so anything will taste good.) You live as simply or as lavishly as you like, but most volunteers opt for the savings and camaraderie of camping together and eating simple group meals. My last stint as a volunteer cost me the price of gasoline to drive from Texas to Arizona and one night in a budget motel with a senior citizen's discount. I bought food and snacks for myself. And on the last day of the project, I chipped in to provide food for a good-bye luncheon. That was all. I spent less than $100 for food for the 10-day trip. On another occasion, I stayed with other participants in a cabin nestled in a pine forest. It cost $46 per night split four ways, with full kitchen and bath. Almost free! Kids Can Dig it Every archaeology project has its complement of youngsters, although each project director sets age requirements for his or her program. Some activities might not be suitable for the very young. Many projects carry specific minimum-age requirements, but most allow kids under 18 years old as long as they are accompanied by a responsible adult, making PIT a rare, inexpensive opportunity for all kinds of participants. I recall a 13-year-old girl, Anna, who came to a dig with her single mom. Anna found evidence of a large pottery jar in a pueblo. Rather than calling on a more experienced volunteer or one of the staff to excavate it, the project director provided her with appropriate tools and instruction to excavate the find herself. Anna lay on her stomach for hours with dental tools and art brushes, meticulously freeing the piece from its resting place. When the jar was finally lifted out, the volunteers gathered with cameras as Anna beamed through a substantial coating of dirt. Singles Can Dig itWhen I arrived at the Forest Service site for my first project, I was stunned at how many single people were there-retired singles, widowed or divorced folks, and younger ones, too. Not only is it a great way to make new friends of all ages, it's also suited to single people (especially women) who want an adventurous vacation but have reservations about attempting it alone. The volunteers, bonded by the energy that comes from doing something selfless, quickly become a working "family," with all members looking out for each other. Solo travelers will seldom find a safer or more welcoming environment. Seniors Can Dig itI was amazed at the amount of rock that one volunteer, Don, could move. He also had a grasp of engineering that frequently eased the tasks at the dig site. When the rest of us pooped out, he rallied us. He kept up a steady stream of jokes. He flirted endlessly with the ladies. He was Superman! He was also 80 years old. For those who aren't as fit and athletic as Don, there are other gratifying things to do. I have met senior volunteers who were nurses, educators, pilots, and housewives. The one thing they had in common was their willingness to do useful work, be it in the laboratory or in the field. And since there's an application process, no one ended up on a project that didn't suit them. There is no such thing as "too old" on a PIT project. PIT's costs also appeal to seniors-or to anyone on a fixed income. Digging up the scoopTo obtain a copy of PIT Traveler, a newsletter containing upcoming projects along with the info you'll need to apply, contact: Passport in Time Clearinghouse, P.O. Box 31315, Tucson, AZ 85751-1315; or call 800/281-9176. This information is also available at passportintime.com.

There are plenty of reasons to set your sights on Barbados, whose West Indian and British influences give the island a unique culture all its own. In sharp contrast to other resort-laden Caribbean islands, a good chunk of Barbados is still carpeted with sugar cane crops, dotted with the occasional weathered windmill, as well as English churches whose first stones were laid well over three centuries ago. Vacations there can be as peaceful or as active as you like. Chill out on the pink-and-white sand of the Southern Caribbean with a stiff rum punch in hand, or slap on the snorkeling gear and swim with the green turtles, whose shells can measure up to four feet in diameter. Take your pick. Tiger Woods may have just tied the knot there to Swedish model Elin Nordegren, and British Prime Minister Tony Blair has already recharged his political batteries twice this year on Barbados, but the island is accessible to those who live outside the spotlight as well. The Barbados Tourism Authority "Best of Barbados" program, for example, helps vacationers by giving them up to $600 (per couple) in discounts on flights, accommodations, dining, car rentals, and tours galore. (Available through Nov. 30.) Despite the fact that Barbados, which sits far outside the hurricane belt, has not had a serious storm sweep across its shores in 50 years, it still suffers by association and muddles along with the rest of the Caribbean in proclaiming early fall as its "low season," which means prices right now are at their best. From the Harrison Caves to the top-heavy boulders that appear on Bathsheba Beach like giant fantastical spores, Barbados' natural beauty is genuinely astounding, enhanced by the fact that it's easy to be alone there, sitting on the sands and staring at a sunset--that is until you stumble upon a fisherman, a couple of smooching teen-agers, or elderly Bajans out for a walk. In democratic fashion, all of Barbados' beaches are public, and open to tourists and locals alike. The island's egalitarian approach to life also extends to education: Barbados has the third highest literacy rate in the world. Its rigorous schooling shows in the form of low crime, good jobs, and a generally high quality of life. Barbados' other riches are perhaps more tangible, and owed in large part to Mother Nature. The trade winds blow directly south from Boston to Bridgetown, the island's capital city to form a triangle with London in what was the most active and profitable shipping route of the day. For better or worse, the brisk sugar business brought slaves, produced plantations, and put Barbados on history's map. Underscoring the unique ties between the island and the US is the recently discovered George Washington House in what was the fortified Garrison district--an area that gets surprisingly little attention from tourists. The house where the first president of the United States lived for a year in 1751 when he was 19 is presently being restored with TLC by the Barbados National Trust, and will soon make for one of the most compelling sights on the island. Accommodations, and the lay of the island Marriott lovers, Hyatt fans, and Radisson regulars be forewarned; Barbados is blessedly free of chain hotels and mega-resorts. In fact, no building can be higher than a royal palm, or three to four stories. The result of this centuries-old law is a diverse array of privately owned properties, many of them invitingly intimate in size. Barbados has 3,000+ beds, and each side of the island its own distinct reputation, fostered in part by the character of the beaches, and in part by who lives, works, and plays there. The South Coast, which encompasses the parish of Christ Church, is experiencing a renaissance of sorts, and is a good choice for younger travelers and those on a budget. The atmosphere is lively, mainly due to the tangle of small resorts, beach condos, and comparatively cheap places to eat, with the St. Lawrence Gap being the center of attention when it comes to nightlife. This part of the island, just east and south of Bridgetown, has a good many of guesthouses, a number of which come ready with kitchens for make-it-yourself meals. Here are a few budget lodging options worthy of consideration: Shells Guesthouse (Worthing) Friendly spot with eight rooms (and shared baths). A relaxing place where you can afford to chill out for a while. Rooms $25-50/night. Cleverdale Guesthouse (Worthing) German-owned property with a communal flair and generous outdoor terrace. Rooms $25-50/night. DoverBeach Club (Dover) Casual beachside property with welcome A/C, kitchenettes, and nice sized pool. Rooms $75-100/night. doverbeach.com Places to Stay Abbeville Hotel (Rockley) This slightly worm mini-motel makes up for what it lacks in charm with a welcoming staff. There's a pool and a big, busy bar. Rooms $25-50/night. Casuarina Beach Club (St. Lawrence Gap) Attractive full-service resort with tennis courts, pool, and tour desk. There's also a great collection of local art. Rooms from $160/night. Anchoring the Gold Coast primo spot is Sandy Lane, Barbados' grand-daddy of luxurious stays--and the site of Tiger's wedding. For years, the refined resort has attracted the very rich, as well as the famous that come for its gourmet meals (they're true fruits de mer feasts), Roman-style spa, golf on three impeccable courses, and all-around fine living. Even with $800/night rooms, Sandy Lane commands a healthy clientele of repeat visitors, which includes many families who land there for a full two weeks over Christmas, considered the island's high season. Its wide beach, which is shaded with gracious ancient trees, however, anyone can enjoy. Places to Eat It's a well-known fact that McDonald's failed miserably on Barbados. As one local explained, "Islanders are suspicious of beef. Cows are so big, but give us fish, chicken, or pork and we're happy." Just as you won't see monster hotels on Barbados, you won't see many chain restaurants either (except for Chefette, Barbados' answer to KFC-meets-ice cream parlor.) Bajans eat well, and the island dishes up a range of culinary experiences. Flying fish is one of the most usual suspects on menus at Caribbean joints (first marinated in lime, salt and herbs, then broiled, grilled or seared), but high-falutin' French eateries serving dorado au poivre are almost just as common. Those who delight in island delicacies will want to keep their eyes peeled for street-side stalls serving such delicious (if greasy) snacks as conch fritters, fried kingfish, and grilled pigtails ($2). Just sidle up, and place your order to go, or hang out and listen to calypso on the radio while you order seconds. At night, the sidewalks come alive with food vendors. The pedestrian strip between Rockley Beach and Worthing south of Bridgetown is a good bet. There, you'll also find the Ship Inn, an English pub that's been around for decades--think pints of stout and shepherd's pie, but it also serves a mean rum punch ($5) and flying fish and chips ($13). Nearby David's Place is good for real-deal Caribbean fare for those on a budget. Tuck into dinners of pickled chicken wings and Bajan fish dishes served with fiery pepper pot for all of $20.In the blink-and-you'll-pass-it fishing enclave on Mullen's Beach just north of St. Charles on the West Coast, the family-run Fish Pot restaurant serving gourmet dishes mainly featuring daily catches in a breezy, beachside dining room. The Fish Pot's not near much else, but is worth the drive, or taxi ride to get there. Dinners at this sweet out-of-the-way spot will run you about $30. Other recommendations include: The Cliff (very romantic and pricey with dramatic torch-lit dining, cliffside), Daphne's (Italian in a stylish setting), Sasafras, Carambola (French), Joseph's, La Mer (International), and Sugar Sugar. Barbados by air Barbados sits about 300 miles northeast of Venezuela. Cruise ships do visit the island's lauded shores, but for most people hopping on an airplane is the easiest (and cheapest) way to get to the West Indian isle, especially if you can nab a nonstop flight. From the East Coast, the five-hour flight is a straight shot south; expect to spend more time on a plane (and more money) from the West Coast. American, which flies daily nonstops from NYC and Miami has a good hold on air travel to Barbados, but so does BWIA with Dallas added as a nonstop gateway. Air Jamaica flies from all of these cities, as well as Chicago and Los Angeles. US Airways, too, is making inroads in the skies over Barbados. The Barbados government requires visitors to pay a $13 departure tax when they leave (both Barbados dollars and US greenbacks are accepted). For travel post-hurricane season in mid-November, the best prices on round-trip airfare (weekend to weekend) to Barbados are as follows: $523--Atlanta $402--Boston $464--Chicago $613--Dallas $573--Denver $519--Kansas City $593--Los Angeles $366--Miami $419--New York City $620--Seattle

Once again, we bring you good news from Sin City: Vegas remains a steal for the budget traveler in 2003 And here's why. Although the events of September 11 had a negative impact on the travel business across the nation, Las Vegas was shaken with particular force. In fact, the ensuing slowdown ended what had been an unfathomable 18-year roll of year-to-year visitation gains. When occupancy levels in the hotels plummeted, the resorts had to react. Not surprisingly, they returned to the same safe harbor that they have in the past: unbridled, unmitigated value. Room rates were slashed, meal specials were installed, and juicy promotions popped up all over town. The strategy was effective enough, and things began moving back toward normalcy in 2002. But the numbers aren't back yet, so the bargain strategy continues. At this moment, in early 2003, casinos are still fighting for market share, which means that opportunities for savvy vacationers in Bargain City are boundless. Bargain rooms-and how to get them Why should you work so hard to find a low-cost hotel room in Vegas? It's because resorts with low room rates also tend to offer bargains in dining and entertainment. Hence, finding the best room bargain leads to savings right down the line. So how do you get a comfortable but budget-priced room? You keep three tactics in your subconscious- avoid peak times, be flexible in your choices, research like crazy-and then you make a savvy choice from the three Vegas areas where the bargains could have been lifted from your dreams. The subconscious, first. The ability to avoid busy times in Las Vegas has always marked the difference between getting a good room rate and a great one. Visiting Sunday through Thursday is the fundamental strategy, but it's never been as powerful as it i s now. Why? Because although weekend crowds have returned to just about pre-September 11 levels, weekday visitation continues to lag significantly. So casinos discount during these times. Searching thoroughly should turn up at least one room with a per-night tab of less than $30, and finding several options below $40 is almost a given. True bargain mavens should schedule for either December or July/August, when rates all over town plummet into the $20 to $40 range. And there are plenty to choose from-last July saw an astounding 51 casinos with rates of $50 or less. In December, a stunning 52 casinos had rates under $40! The second rule, being flexible in terms of location, is paramount. In a macro sense, it means bypassing the Strip megaresorts to concentrate on the location categories that we've identified below. In its micro-application, flexibility means being willing to go where the deals materialize, whether it's one of the newer "off-Strip" hotels a mile from the center of all action, or one of the older joints downtown. The third rule is research. When you find a rate you like, confirm that you are protected by a penalty-free cancellation period, then book it and search some more. Why is it important to lock it in? Today's casinos use sophisticated computer programs to move rates at the drop of a hat, which means a price you decide you want may not exist when you call back ten minutes later. But of all the strategies for finding a well-priced room, the single most important relates to geographic location. For best value, look to casino hotels in the downtown area of Las Vegas (Fremont Street and nearby); casino hotels off-Strip in the outlying locations; and older resorts on the north Strip. 1. Downtown Las Vegas Las Vegas's new bargain mecca is downtown. This was the area hit hardest by the fallout from September 11, and this is where the value is. Low-rate champs Las Vegas Club and Lady Luck are virtual sure bets for below-$40 (and of ten below-$30) rates year-round. Right behind them for consistency are Four Queens, Fitzgeralds, Golden Gate, and Plaza in the heart of the downtown enclave. Although slightly aging, these are full-service resorts, and many have upgraded their rooms in recent years in concert with the ongoing overhaul of downtown itself. Ask the reservations agent if there's an area in the hotel with recently renovated rooms and request placement there. If you don't mind stepping up to about $60 per night midweek, opt for the four-diamond Golden Nugget, older but classy through and through. Downtown's big draw is the Fremont Street Experience, where free, impressive light-and-music shows run after dark on a huge overhead canopy. On weekends, free concert events often featuring name performers are held in the Fremont Street commons. Location is not really a problem, as it's a mere four-minute drive via freeway to the Strip. Downtown's budget-dining standbys are plentiful (for instance, the 99 > shrimp cocktail at the Golden Gate or the under-$5 old-time snack-bar specialties at Binion's Horseshoe). Super supper joints (with specials under $11) include Plaza (Center Stage), California (Pasta Pirate), and El Cortez (Roberta's). Roberta's runs ridiculously low-priced midweek specials, including a two-for-one prime rib dinner on Wednesdays for $11.50. There's also a passel of new restaurants in the just-opened Neonopolis movie theater/entertainment complex, most within budget range. 2. Nearby Off-Strip hotels For several years now, the roster of "locals' casinos"-resorts built in key population pockets around town that survive by marketing to those close-by denizens-has been expanding at a fever pitch. An interesting phenomenon, however, is that these places are now being built closer to the Strip. The outliers have always been tops for dining and certain forms of entertainment (lounges, concerts, sports events) value; plus they easily sit atop the pack for offering best gambling odds. Their prime negative has been location: They're just too far away. This is no longer the case. There are now two developed communities of nearby outliers. Both are on Flamingo Road-one about a mile east of the Strip and the other a mile west. To the east is Terrible's, Tuscany, Key Largo, Ellis Island (Koval Super 8), and Hard Rock. To the west is Gold Coast, Rio, and Palms. Expand the west area slightly to add the bargain-minded Wild Wild West and Orleans to the south and Palace Station to the north. Though Hard Rock, Rio, Palms, and Tuscany command higher rates, the others in this list are solid bets for rooms in the $30 to $60 range. When it comes to dining deals, the undisputed value kings remain these neighborhood operations. Meal deals are how these places market to the locals, and the competition is fierce. The single corner housing the Rio, Palms, and Gold Coast may offer the most prolific concentration of cheap eats in the universe. Five of the city's best buffets reside here. The Rio boasts two, including Las Vegas's only daily seafood spread (lavish-but expensive at $29.99) and the city's original superbuffet, the Carnival World ($9.99 to $16.99). The Palms also has two buffets: The Fantasy Market is close to the Rio in quality and better priced at $5.99 to $9.99. The second Palms buffet is a little-known lunch spread for $7.95 in Gardu-o's, the casino's pride-and-joy Mexican restaurant that the owners imported from New Mexico. The Gold Coast has only one buffet, but it's one of the city's best and most affordable at $4.95 for breakfast, $6.95 for lunch, and $9.95 for dinner or Sunday brunch. The Gold Coast, in fact, stands out as the premier casino for dining deals across the board. For dinner, the Italian Arriva, Chinese Ping Pang Pong, and venerable Cortez Room are all excellent feeding grounds for as little as $10 a head. The Cortez Room somehow manages to hold the line on a fabulous $7.95 prime rib special, wh ich is about as good as it gets for these stakes. 3. Hotels on the North Strip No matter what other options may exist, there will always be those who will settle for nothing less than staying directly on the Strip. That's okay, there's a bargain play here, too. The move is to concentrate on the north end of the boulevard, where the casinos are older. In a few years, the north end will be the place to be, as Steve Wynn's Le Reve is sure to launch a whole new wave of development. For now, though, the north is the Strip's low-rent district. Look to the three S's-as in Stratosphere, Sahara, and Stardust-where rooms tend to be priced in two-figureland, even on (nonprime) weekends. Also check Circus Circus, Riviera, and New Frontier, as well as the Imperial Palace, which is really more Strip central than north, and the Las Vegas Hilton, which could almost be classified as a nearby outlier given its location just east of the Strip (behind the Riviera). If you're a frequent visitor , Stratosphere and Imperial Palace are good hotels to get involved with, given their proclivity to market back to former customers (a good room rate today often leads to an even better one tomorrow).

Hostels are associated with backpacking in Europe, not schussing in North America. But hostels do exist in Canada and the States, and some are right down the road from top ski resorts. In exchange for bunk beds and a shared bath, guests pay a tiny fraction of what a hotel might cost. Combine these inexpensive accommodations with discounted airfare, and even the low budget ranks of students and backpackers can afford a trip to the mountains. Check out the super-cheap ski sleeps Canada is where Americans find outstanding value for their dollars right now (US$1 = CAD$1.53). And considering the proliferation of hostels and inexpensive lodging in the vicinity of great Canadian ski resorts, a trip to the snow up north is possible on a seriously skimpy budget. One great source of ski-friendly hostels north of the border is canadianskihostels.com. A sample of what's possible: At the Revelstoke Traveller's Hostel, rates start at just CAD$28.95 (US$21.73) for a night's stay and a day's lift ticket at Powder Springs ski area on Mount Mackenzie. This is truly a great value, considering purchasing a day's lift ticket alone usually costs CAD$34 . At the SameSun International Hostel in the Silver Star Mountain Resort (also in British Columbia), dorm rates are just CAD$20 (US$15.02), and private, two-person rooms with bath are just CAD$79 (US$59.32). You simply can't beat the location. The hostel is built right in the resort, within walking distance from the lifts. Low-budget ski beds in the U.S. There are also a handful of hostels near ski resorts in the U.S. Hostelling International (301/495-1240, hiayh.org) provides a list of hostels within a reasonable reach of the slopes. Like most hostels, a night's sleep should cost around $30 (sometimes less), even though the bed may be within a few blocks of $400 rooms. Colorado's got some of the best skiing in North America, as well as some of the best locations for skiing hostellers. The HI-Crested Butte International Hostel (888/389-0588, crestedbuttehostel.com), located three miles from the resort and 150 feet away from a free shuttle, costs $27 a night for members, $30 for non-members. The Fireside Inn (970/453-6456, firesideinn.com) is a ten-minute walk from the lifts at Breckenridge, or around the corner from a free shuttle to Breckenridge, Keystone, Arapahoe Basin, or Copper Mountain. Dormitory rates at the Fireside are $30 a night early and late season, $35 for most of the winter. There over 30 hostels listed on the HI-AYH site, in 16 different states. None of them are within walking distance of the lifts (as are occasionally found in Canada), but they're all within an hour's drive of ski resorts. There aren't any lift-lodging packages offered, but oftentimes an individual hostel can provide guests with a coupon or discount on lift tickets. Student flights and cheap nights A cheap bed does a skier no good if he or she can't get to the mountains to enjoy it. The problem is that flights into the tiny airports of top ski towns like Telluride and Aspen are often very pricey. Here's a way for one avid group of skiers and snowboarders to get around these hefty rates. Less than three years old, Student Universe has made way into the student travel world, often with airfares that beat the giant in the market, STA Travel. This winter, Student Universe is offering great student-only airfares to places like Aspen, Eagle County in Colorado (near Vail and Beaver Creek), Jackson, Wyoming, and several ski destinations in Europe. Student Universe has also partnered up the super-cheap lodgings of with Hostel World (hostelworld.com), making it easy for a student to book air to a ski town and a cheap bed at the same time. What are the prices like? Airfares for students are often much less expensive than those available to the general public. Mid-January -- a "down" travel time, but a period when many students have yet to return for the spring semester -- is among the best times to find a ski bargain. If booked through Student Universe, fares such as Milwaukee to Jackson or New Orleans to Eagle start at $260 round-trip. Flights to Europe such as New York to Munich (not far from the ski resorts of Bavaria) start at only $270 for students. As for the price of a night's sleep, here's a sampling of what's possible through Student Universe and Hostel World. Cheap rooms like the Fireside Inn in Breckenridge (listed above) are available through its booking engine, as are beds at the St. Moritz Lodge in Aspen, starting at only $21 per night. Several hostels in British Columbia, Canada range from $10 to $30 a night; in Europe, nightly rates in ski towns go for $15 and up. It's not necessary to book a package through Student Universe to get any of these rates (actually, no "packages" are offered at all). A student simply books airfare or a night's bed individually. For that matter, booking a night's bed can be done directly through each property, often at the same exact price. Student Universe only accepts reservations via the Internet at studentuniverse.com. It maintains a toll-free number to answer questions, at 800/272-9676.