Cancun

By Patricia Harris
June 4, 2005
There's authentic Mexican cuisine in Cancun, but only for those who break away from the resorts.

If you only hang out in Cancun's Hotel Zone, you'll never discover how great Yucatecan food can be, with its fresh fish, marinated meats and poultry, and accents of lime, orange, and herbs native only to this part of Mexico. Leave the beach crowds to their buffalo wings and tequila; dining salvation is a 55-cent bus ride away in Cancun City, the service town for the big resorts.

Labna (Margaritas 29, 011-52-998/892-3056, entrees under $10)

Mayan kitsch is Cancun's curse, so the soaring but low-key temple design befits the restaurant's contemporary approach to the rustic food of the Yucatan. Two can easily share papadzules (corn tortillas filled with chopped hard-boiled eggs and covered with green-pumpkin-seed sauce) or empanadas de cazon (baby-shark turnovers). Most entrees fall well below $10, including the traditional Mayan dish poc chuc (achiote seed-rubbed grilled pork served with bitter oranges and a green-chile tomato sauce) and pollo pibil (spicy chicken slowly braised in a banana leaf). Good desserts are rare in Cancun, so it's worth indulging here on guayaba mousse or caramel-infused tres leches cake.

El Cejas  (Mercado 28, 011-52-998/887-1080, entrees $8-$15)

Given that a heavy portion of residents are between 25 and 35, beer swilling isn't confined to Hotel Zone bars. Swing by the Mercado 28 crafts market (south of avenida Yaxchilan at the end of avenida Sunyaxchen) on a Sunday afternoon, when groups of friends twirl longnecks and share platters of shrimp, octopus, conch, or scallop ceviche as wandering musicians play for change. Crabs are a specialty-stuffed and steamed or fried with garlic or chipotle sauce.

El Rincon Yucateco (Uxmal 35, west of av. Tulum circle, no phone, entrees $4.50-$9)

This casual grill's two-for-one bottled beers are a perfect match for the house specialty of panuchos-puffed corn tortillas stuffed with epazote-stewed black beans and topped with barbecued pork. Diners at the noisy sidewalk tables preen in the sun and watch the cosmopolitan foot traffic around the nearby bus station. El Rincon's signature dish is a heaping bowl of shredded chicken in a tangy broth of chicken stock and lime juice: the classic Yucatecan comfort food called sopa de lima.

Cocina La Chaya (Mercado 28, 011-52-998/888-6437, entrees $5-10)

Buff young fitness freaks who practically live in their bathing suits swear by chaya, a vitamin-rich Yucatecan green that's like a cross between spinach and mint. This mom-and-pop business in Mercado 28 features big plates of beef, fish, chicken, or mushrooms heaped with chopped chaya and slivered ham. They're best washed down with the gem-colored "waters": papaya, melon, lemon, or orange.

Parque de las Palapas (Between av. Tulum and av. Yaxchilan, quesadillas 75¢)

Once the searing sun goes down, families congregate in this palm-filled park, tucked between busy avenidas Tulum and Yaxchilan, to enjoy concerts at the bandstand, ride the Ferris wheel, and hit the vendors selling quecas, slang for quesadillas. The turnovers are filled with beef, chicken, or chorizo, as well as exotic options like cactus leaves or cuitlacoche, a delicacy made from corn kernels bloated by a tasty fungus. Cuitlacoche might set you back $15 in the States, but in the park quecas are rarely more than 75¢.

Club Nautico (Puerto Juarez, just north of ferry dock, 011-52-998/116-8471, entrees $4-$9)

Each night in Puerto Juarez, on the beach by the Isla Mujeres ferry, fishermen unload their catch, pull up plastic chairs, and wait for fillets to come off the fire. Grouper rubbed with achiote seed, drenched in sour orange, and grilled over charcoal is perhaps the most popular dish, but the bouillabaisse-like sopa de mariscos is a rich bargain for shellfish lovers, as is the mixed "cocktail" of octopus, shrimp, and conch. Every so often, a neighborhood lady wanders in with a tray of flan and coconut custard, each under $1.

La Faena (La Faena Plaza de Toros, av. Bonampak, 011-52-998/884-4197, entrees $4-$7)

The cantinas tucked into the outside wall of Cancun's bullring serve some of the city's best bar food. Patrons follow soccer matches on a giant TV as they dip hot Spanish sausage in cool guacamole (chistorra) or slurp down green chile strips in melted cheese (queso fundido). After the third beer--how about a Negra de Leon, a malty, dark brew rare in America--you'll crave a meaty main dish such as the barbecued lamb (barbacoa de cordero). If bullfighting isn't your sport, skip Wednesday afternoons.

La Parrilla (av. Yaxchilan 51, 011-52-998/884-8193, entrees $6.25-$15)

The plastic cow out front and the strolling mariachis inside scream "tourist trap," but some of the savviest folks in Cancun celebrate anniversaries at La Parrilla because it's festive and the meat comes in substantial gaucho-like portions. Crunchy, lime-saturated green-cactus leaves on soft tortillas (nopalitos) will cleanse your palate for the mixed grill of chicken breast, skirt steak, pork chop, and chorizo served on a hibachi at the table. Side dishes of cowboy beans (pinto beans with smoked bacon, green chile, and cilantro), grilled onions, and strips of roasted green chile peppers round out the meal.

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Crash the Party: Kentucky Derby

Whether you're a fan of old-time cocktails, big-time hats, or fast-time horses, the Run for the Roses, this year on May 7, promises thrills. Louisville hotel rooms have been booked for months, and grandstand tickets are sold out. But don't let that stop you. Get in the gate As many as 150,000 people usually turn out, yet Churchill Downs seats only 54,000 for the Derby. How? There's an unlimited supply of $40 walk-up general-admission tickets that grant access to the paddock and infield. The Derby, the 10th of the day's 12 races, starts around 6 p.m., and the gates open at 8 a.m. You'll want to get there early (some come as early as 3 a.m., but 7:30 a.m. should be fine). Head for the 40-acre infield. The best seats are near the turns, where you can feel the horses' speed; drop your blanket as close to the fence as possible. Bring folding chairs and blankets--permitted only through Gate 3--to hold on to your spot. (Leave the coolers and umbrellas behind. They're not allowed.) The first and second turns attract a mellow crowd, while the hard-core partyers congregate at turn three. Scoring a last-minute grandstand ticket, if you can get one, will cost at least $300. (Tickets' face values range from $60 to $700.) Scalping is illegal in Kentucky, so you'll have to go through an online ticket broker such as gotickets.com. Secure a room Start by calling around to Louisville hotels: Cancellations aren't unheard of. Next, try the tourist board, which may know of options you haven't considered. Finally, expand your search to Lexington, an hour-long drive east on Interstate 64; the Radisson Plaza Hotel, downtown, has 367 rooms, so it may have availability. Blue Grass Tours runs shuttles for $55 per person, but for that price, you might as well rent a car. Drink in style No race day is complete without a mint julep: bourbon, sugar, muddled mint, water, and crushed ice ($7.50). More than 80,000 will be poured at Churchill Downs over Derby weekend. Have at least one, if not for the bourbon, then for the souvenir--a collins glass imprinted with the names of previous Derby winners. Dress the part Much of the fun here is watching--and joining--the parade of women in overstated hats. Look for a big, floppy brim loaded with feathers or ribbons. Pick one up last-minute at Kentucky Museum of Art and Craft. Most are by local milliners, and prices start around $120. Transportation   Blue Grass Tours 800/755-6956 Shopping   Kentucky Museum of Art and Craft 715 W. Main St., 502/589-0102 Resources   Louisville Visitor's Bureau 888/568-4784 Attractions   Churchill Downs 700 Central Ave., 800/283-3729 Lodging   Radisson Plaza Hotel 369 W. Vine St., 859/231-9000, radisson.com/lexingtonky, from $149

Vacation Coach

MaryBeth Reardon played the role of big sister when her family took in a Swiss exchange student named Steve Ziegler in the late 1970s. Steve kept in touch with the family over the years and always offered to host anyone coming to his hometown, Zürich. After years of saying they should, MaryBeth and her husband, Dan, of Bellmore, N.Y., decided to take Steve up on his offer. "We're both turning 50 this year, and our 30th wedding anniversary was in June." MaryBeth told Budget Travel. "We want to celebrate 50/30 in a big way." The last of their three daughters would soon be graduating from college, and they'd heard rates to Europe were good, so why not go for it? Initially, the Reardons thought about visiting Steve in the summer of 2003, but airfare alone was well over $1,000 a person. Prices were supposed to be better in winter, and besides, MaryBeth always had pictures in her head of snow-covered Swiss chalets, craggy mountains topped in white, and flurries falling in villages right out of a fairy tale. Switzerland without snow just wouldn't seem right. So winter it would be. In addition to seeing Switzerland with Steve as host, the Reardons were also intrigued with traveling on their own for a week or so. On a map, Italy looked close and especially tempting. "I can't wait for Dan to get to Italy--to eat," said MaryBeth. "I know he's going to flip." A group tour or simple air/hotel package wouldn't work for them. They needed advice on finding airfare, deciding where to go in Italy, and figuring out how to get around. That's where we stepped in. In August, Dan had started searching for airfare for flights leaving in February or March of 2004. At that point, winter prices didn't seem much better than summer--around $800. We told the Reardons to wait, that it was just too early to find good rates. Sure enough, in mid-October, several airlines announced sales to Europe for winter. After shopping around at search engines and various wholesalers, we decided on an American Airlines flight booked directly through the carrier's website, aa.com/. Not only was the price good ($345.50 each, with taxes included), the flight was direct from JFK to Zürich. In order to get winter scenery and winter prices but still have a chance at spring weather, we told them to depart as late in March as possible. (Airlines generally raise fares to Europe starting April 1, and rates are based on when you leave, not when you return.) They decided on a March 31 departure, with a return on April 13--both midweek flights, by the way, which helped ensure the least expensive fare. Now, where to go on their trip-within-the trip? The Reardons weren't exactly sure what they wanted, but preferred casual strolls in pretty, romantic settings to trudging along with a checklist of must-sees. We advised them to stick to northern Italy--heading all the way down to Rome or Florence would eat up too much time. They'd never been to Venice, so that was a definite. We recommended dividing up the journey to Venice with a couple of days on gorgeous Lake Como. Finally, instead of retracing their tracks, they would head north from Venice and spend a night in charming Innsbruck, Austria--which has hosted two Winter Olympics--before looping back to Zürich. Renting a car seemed like a headache to the Reardons, what with figuring out driving directions, mountain roads, insurance, and foreign signs. The train was much more appealing--fewer worries, and ample time to relax as the scenery rolls on by. The cheapest rail pass that would work for their itinerary was over $300; point-to-point tickets were cheaper (we compared options using Rail Europe, raileurope.com/). We told the Reardons to skip the reservations, too--at that time of year, it shouldn't be a problem finding seats, so there was no need to pay $10 or $25 on top of each train ticket. This was a special trip, so the Reardons didn't want to worry about saving a few bucks if it meant staying in dumpy hotels. They didn't require luxury, just good value and location. Paying a bit over $100 a night was fine, as long as the hotel seemed worth it and they had a private bath. Here's the itinerary we created for them. Wednesday, March 31 Fly to Zürich. Thursday, April 1, to Saturday, april 3 Visit Steve, tour Zürich and surroundings. Sunday, April 4 Board a morning train from Zürich to Como. The trip takes three-and-a-half hours, and a second-class seat is $53. Our advice is to consolidate clothing, toiletries, and other necessities into one bag--traveling light is always best--and leave the rest with Steve. At Como, grab the express ferry for a one-hour cruise to Bellagio (bellagiolakecomo.com/, $16). The bus is cheaper but not nearly as pleasant or scenic. Stay two nights at the Suisse, a modest hotel with wood floors and carved furnishings set in a 15th-century palazzo overlooking the lake. Doubles start at $116, with breakfast. Monday, April 5 Sightsee around Bellagio and Lake Como. If the previous day's boat ride didn't suffice, take a ferry to one of the nearby villages for more stunning scenery. For dinner, dig into traditional pasta dishes and fresh lake fish at cozy Ristorante Barchetta, in the historic center. Tuesday, April 6 Ferry back to Como (or take the bus if you want to save a few euros). Train from Como to Venice, four hours, $36. Hop on the No. 82 ferry and get off at the Accademia Bridge. Spend two nights at the Hotel Galleria, a 17th-century palazzo at the foot of the bridge on the Grand Canal, where doubles are $134, with breakfast in your room included. Wednesday, April 7 Enjoy Venice. Overload on art and history at the Accademia Gallery and the Doge's Palace, go window-shopping on Calle Larga XXII Marzo, watch the pigeons have their way with the other tourists in Piazza San Marco, or just get lost wandering among the canals, bridges, palaces, churches, and alleyways. Thursday, April 8 Train from Venice to Innsbruck, five hours, $48. Spend the night among the cobblestones and colors of the Altstadt (Old Town), at the delightful Weisses Rössl, which dates back to 1410 and is an easy 10-minute walk from the train station. Doubles start at $128, with breakfast included. Or, to save a bit, hail a cab or take the D bus out to Pension Paula, a hillside chalet just outside town with doubles from $63, breakfast included. Friday, April 9 Go for a morning stroll along Innsbruck's quaint old-world streets and gaze up at the huge Tyrolean peaks around you. Afternoon train from Innsbruck to Zürich, four hours, $57. Saturday, April 10 to Monday, April 12 More time in Switzerland with Steve. Tuesday, April 13 Fly back to New York. SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA & ITALY Lodging: " Suisse Piazza Mazzini 23, 011-39/031-950-335, bellagio.co.nz/suisse, $116" Hotel Galleria Campo della Carità 878a, 011-39/041-523-2489, hotelgalleria.it/, $134" Weisses Rössl Kiebachgasse 8, 011-43/512-583057, roessl.at/, $128" Pension Paula Weiherburggasse 15, 011-43/512-292262, pensionpaula.at/, $63Food: Ristorante Barchetta Salita Mella 13, 011-39/031-951-389

Made in Mexico

Cristina's fingers, dusted with oily crumbs from our tombstone-size bag of pork rinds, slipped on the steering wheel, and we careened through burning debris. "Hold on, and roll up your windows. Now!" commanded my friend and former college roommate as we drove into the yellow smoke that poured across the mountain road. I never would've imagined, sitting in our dorm room 15 years earlier, that this would be our end. To be clear, we were not chasing wildfires in California. We had just crossed from Jalisco, Mexico, into Michoacán at the tail end of the dry season--the time of year when the fields that creep to the road's edge are singed to their roots to make way for new crops, and when driving becomes something of an extreme sport. "This is what happens when you take the back roads," declared Cristina, who is now a chef and restaurant owner in San Miguel de Allende, in the neighboring state of Guanajuato, and knows a thing or two about farming cycles. We made a vow to avoid the roads less traveled. As far as I can tell, Michoacán has never had a problem coaxing anything green and useful from the earth. It's legendary nationwide for its everlasting bumper crop of fruits and vegetables. Cristina spent a good portion of our six-week road trip waxing poetic about Michoacán cuisine--the abundant local produce, of course, but also the nifty molded tamales, nutty cream sauces, spiced stews, and ancient, hearty dishes made with beans and wild game. Only a few hours into my visit to what is arguably Mexico's most alluring western state, I became aware that its reputation is only a slight exaggeration. Uruapan: South-of-the-border Switzerland Until recently, Michoacán was a monolithic challenge to visit because of its lack of roads and poor public transportation. Most important, there was no easy way to connect the state's three main cities: Uruapan, Pátzcuaro, and Morelia. But just a decade ago, government initiatives forged a tire-friendly toll, or cuota, superhighway, connecting them. This smooth, multilane route is dramatically safer than previous roads, but it's not cheap. Tolls run upwards of $7 (so at least there isn't much traffic). After our close call on the back roads, Cristina and I were both more than ready to shell out a wad of pesos. With a heavy dose of adrenaline still rolling through our veins, we snaked through eucalyptus and pine forests, carefully making our way toward Uruapan. The rush subsided with the distraction unfolding before us. We'd entered another world, a deeply green place of conifers and unusual local architecture--cabins called trojes that look as if they'd just been airlifted from the Alps. I half expected to see locals sporting snowflake-pattern sweaters, skis on porch steps, or Swiss Miss herself splitting logs. This scene evaporated when we entered Paracho, a town of indigenous Purépechans, the majority of whom are woodworkers who carve out a living whittling everything from back-scratchers to Mexico's finest guitars. Women with babies strapped to their chests swished by us in intricately embroidered skirts while their braids, woven with colored ribbons long enough to wrap 20 presents, slapped their backs. We felt a shade like intruders, but every local smiled, their dark eyes welcoming us without reservation. Admittedly, our hopes for Uruapan were not high. Cristina and I had heard it was an industrial place you weren't likely to visit unless you needed to negotiate contracts for your avocado import business. However, within minutes of our arrival at Hotel Mansión del Cupatitzio, a gracious hotel on the edge of the city and abutting the staggeringly beautiful Parque Nacional Eduardo Ruíz (often called Barranca del Cupatitzio), we suspected we'd heard nothing but lies told in an attempt to keep this heavenly semitropical corner of the planet a secret. In search of dinner, we put on sneakers for the downhill walk and strolled past stalls selling towering piles of toasted coconut patties called cocadas to the main plaza, Jardín Morelos. We bypassed the town's main tourist attraction, a well-tended crafts exhibit called the Huatápera, and made for the Mercado de Antojitos, a market devoted to the region's best small dishes. Cristina and I pushed our way past racks of cheap clothing, pirated Eminem CDs, and teenagers sucking on bottles of Coca-Cola to the central dining area. Women stirring vats of savory liquid startled us as they yelled like carnival barkers, but we were too hungry to care. Cristina always orders well; she has an uncanny ability to hone in on local specialties, so I followed her lead. We greedily tucked into fried poblano chiles stuffed with local Cotija cheese and a regional soup (sopa Tarasca) thickened with pureed beans and infused with guajillo chiles, cream, and a stomach-soothing herb called epazote, only to follow up the first two courses with a couple of rounds of our requisite tacos al pastor, made with marinated roasted pork. The entire meal, including cold Victoria beer, cost all of $3. I can't help it; I've always been a sucker for Mexican markets. They wallop the senses, fill me with energy, and tempt my inner glutton without fail. Some people consider dining on street food to be risky business in Mexico, but without risk there's little reward. My most memorable, authentic Mexican meals have all been plastic-plate affairs at markets or modest family restaurants. A few rules of thumb diminish the chances of unwanted trips to the bathroom: Sit at the busiest counter, where the food is sure to be freshest; avoid raw fruits and vegetables that may have been sprayed with unpurified water; and when in doubt, a spritz of lime (or a sip of tequila) can go a long way toward warding off pesky bacteria. Uruapanu Lodging Hotel Mansión del Cupatitzio, 011-52/452-523-2100, mexonline.com/mcupatitzio.htm, doubles $85 Posada Morelos Morelos 30, 011-52/452-523-2302, doubles $19 Campamento Regional In the national park, 011-52/452-523-2309, parquenacional.org/, $3.50/night Food Urani Next to Hotel Mansión del Cupatitzio, 011-52/452-524-8698, grilled trout $6 Mercado de Antojitos A half block off the Jardín Morelos, lunch $3 Shopping Town of Paracho 25 miles north of Uruapan, wood carvings Casa Regional del Turista Emilio Carranza 20, 011-52/452-524-0667, crafts Pátzcuaro: Cobbles, crafts, and comfort food "I have ants in my pants," admitted Cristina a few days later--her polite way of saying, "Let's move on." So our lazy stay in Uruapan climaxed with a farewell meal at Urani, the open-air restaurant next to our hotel. Overlooking the government-protected park waters and sweeping vegetation, we enjoyed an appetizer of chunky avocado, then grilled trout, fresh from the mountain brook babbling below. It was perfect nourishment for a final stroll in the park. Along the lushly lined paths, the swan-like orchids craned out from jacaranda trunks; banana trees reached Jurassic heights. Throughout our tour, Cristina and I became avid fans of aguas frescas (flavored "fresh" water). Easily Mexico's favorite drink, the sweet and semisweet concoctions come in exotic, mostly fruity, flavors. One sweltering day in colonial Zacatecas we achieved personal records of 10 each. A healthy percentage of the nation's aguas frescas are sold at open-air stores called La Michoacana. Not an original name, I was told, but not franchises--vendors simply want to capitalize on Michoacán's rep for freshness. Most mornings, I started with a creamy horchata, made with rice milk, honey, and cinnamon, graduating to tamarind or jamaica (hibiscus blossom) agua fresca for afternoon pick-me-ups. We also stumbled across some surprising flavors, such as chía (as in Chia Pet), which has a sprightly, wheatgrassy appeal, or tepache, a fermented, rough-around-the-edges pineapple brew that Cristina insists smells like cat urine. Thankfully, there are dozens of flavors to choose from. Of the 35 towns and cities on our aggressive itinerary, we were probably most excited about visiting colonial Pátzcuaro, the beating heart of the Purépechan homeland. Our exuberance was not unfounded; we hankered for dishes made with the flaky white fish (pescado blanco) from nearby Lake Pátzcuaro, and we breathed easy knowing the charming, historic Hotel Mansión Iturbe had a room with our name on it. Time in Pátzcuaro doesn't pass linearly, as if turning pages of a book. It's a dreamy place, surrounded by mountains and full of craggy cobblestone streets; days can meld together without explanation. At first I thought this was simply the effect of a potent "welcome cocktail" or the weirdly wonderful beer-flavored ice cream I ate upon arrival. Or maybe I'd been hypnotized by the fluttering of winged "butterfly" nets still used by locals for fishing. We checked into the hotel, a 17th-century house overlooking Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, a central square with willowy trees named for the beloved Spanish bishop who championed the rights of the indigenous people. The inn's mother hen, Señora Margarita Arriaga, gave us a tour of the exquisite property, which has been the pride of her family for centuries. She even invited us to sip tequila with her in the drawing room--keeping us up well past our usual bedtimes. On the second day, Cristina and I gave up on browsing Pátzcuaro's copper-crafts shops, and meandered lakeward to the ramshackle fish joints for fried charales, minuscule, smelt-like fish. While we ate, the lake's largest island, Janitzio, beckoned, so we boarded a longboat to its shores. Onboard, a trio of musicians kept time by slapping the sides of their cello and guitars. The foods of Michoacán aren't defined by ingredients that set the chest on fire; instead, regional dishes support richer, mellower flavors that have been enjoyed since ancient times. Señora Arriaga encouraged us to sample classic Michoacán cuisine in the hotel's restaurant, Doña Paca. We settled on churipo, a rich stew made with beef, chicken, and pork that tasted like it was given a kick in the pants by sour cactus fruit and ancho chiles. This traditional dish was served with corundas, steamed corn tamales shaped like pyramids that reminded us, in miniature, of the nearby archaeological sites of Tzintzuntzán and Ihuatzio. Patzcuaro Lodging Hotel Mansión Iturbe Portal Morelos 59, on Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, 011-52/434-342-0368, mexonline.com/iturbe.htm, doubles $90 Posada de la Salud Serrato 9, 011-52/434-342-0058, doubles $25 Posada Mandala Lerín 14, 011-52/434-342-4176, doubles $25-$35 Food Doña Paca Portal Morelos 59, in the Hotel Mansión Iturbe, 011-52/434-342-0122, stew $8 El Primer Piso Plaza Vasco de Quiroga 29, 011-52/434-342-0122, closed Tuesdays, pollo en nogada (chicken in a nut sauce) $9 Misión del Arriero Dr. José María Coss 20, in the Hotel Mesón del Gallo, 011-52/434-342 1474, plátano macho (baked banana) $2 Shopping Casa de los Once Patios Lerín, near El Sagrario, crafts market Town of Santa Clara del Cobre 12 miles south of Pátzcuaro, copper goods Morelia: Michoacán's sugary center After a painless 40-minute drive from Pátzcuaro, we entered Morelia. Perhaps we should have started in the aristocratic state capital, slowly acclimating ourselves to the other parts of Michoacán, places where nature and native influences rule. Instead, Morelia left both of us wanting to turn the car around--at first. Unprepared for its swaggering sophistication, I felt overwhelmed by its majestic plazas, dizzy over the number of city festivals, and annoyed by the swarms of students on mopeds. Once beyond the fray, it was hard not to admire Morelia's architectural treasures or cosmopolitan allure. And within hours, I was more than curious about its famous local candies. Even the blush-hued facades of the city's innumerable colonial buildings look as if they were carefully extracted from giant sugar molds. At the Mercado de Dulces, or sweets market, slyly tucked into the rear section of a former Jesuit convent, Cristina and I scoped out the goods: ates (thick fruit pastes), candied-fruit wedges, pralines, more cocadas, colossal lollipops, and loads of piloncillo, unrefined sugar that comes in flavors such as blackberry, licorice, and pumpkin and is often mixed with cocoa to make atole, a murky beverage. After an hour of grazing, guaranteeing ourselves a sugar rush, we moved on. Like drug addicts looking for the next fix, we zeroed in on another source: an old-fashioned candy store called Dulces Morelianos de la Calle Real, whose towering shelves were packed with over 300 of Mexico's finest cavity-inducing treats. I immediately spotted bags of glorias--chews made from cajeta, or caramelized goat's milk, that Cristina used to bring back to school from visits home. But looking wasn't enough. I made my way to the café, where a waitress in a kitschy colonial bonnet promised me that the iced café con leche, laced with my favorite cajeta syrup, would produce sweet dreams of Michoacán. Sure enough, it did. Lodging La Casa de las Rosas Guillermo Prieto 125, 011-52/443-312-4545, doubles $25 Hotel de la Soledad Ignacio Zaragoza 90, 011-52/443-312-1888, hsoledad.com/, doubles $70-$80 Hotel Virrey de Mendoza Av. Madero Poniente 310, 011-52/443-312-0633, hotelvirrey.com/, doubles $120 Food San Miguelito Av. Camelinas, opposite the Centro de Convenciones, 011-52/443-324-2300, arrachera steak with ancho chile butter $11 Villa Montaña Patzimba 201, Col. Vista Bella, 011-52/443-314-0231, margarita $4 Los Comensales Zaragoza 148, chicken mole lunch, $4 Shopping Mercado de Dulces Valentín Gómez Farías, behind the Palacio Clavijero Dulces Morelianos de la Calle Real Av. Madero Oriente 440

Scotland

The Central Florida Highland Games is a big annual celebration of Scottish heritage, with piper bands, lots of plaid, and competitions like the caber toss (throwing a telephone pole--like log end over end). And Connie Kimsey of Melbourne, Fla., has attended every year since 1979--except once, when her uncle got married. "I've dragged along most of my family at one time or another," she said. The festival was always fun, but Connie yearned to see the real Scotland. Her grandfather, William Downs, was born there but left as a teenager for the U.S. around 1930. Connecting with her family's homeland was something Connie had dreamed about for decades--especially after her grandfather passed away 12 years ago. Even though Connie knew that the exchange rate was terrible, she and her husband, Grant, were finally going to follow through on their plans to visit. After years of socializing with Scotophiles and hearing endless stories about Edinburgh, Connie wanted to spend most of their 10-day trip in that lovely, mysterious city. She had made hotel reservations but needed help with flights and sightseeing. She also asked us to figure out how to get to Uddingston (pronounced OOH-dingston), her grandfather's hometown, and how to find Bothwell Castle, where his family picnicked. The Kimseys planned on a tour of the Scottish Highlands, too. "We don't want to drive because of the left-hand side of the road issue," said Connie. "We'd rather be able to look around than worry about looking out,' if you know what I mean." The best round-trip fare between Orlando and Scotland in late May or early June was $651 for an Icelandair flight into Glasgow (via Reykjavík). But because they weren't all that interested in Glasgow, we decided it was smarter to pay a bit more ($714) for a British Airways itinerary that connected in London. "We want to experience some of Edinburgh's great pubs and avoid the tourist traps," Connie said. In the New Town section of Edinburgh, where the Kimseys had already found a hotel, we recommended the Cumberland Bar, a traditional pub with real ale pumps, a beer garden, and decent prices, and the historic Café Royal, where it's worth putting up with the crowds to soak up the Victorian atmosphere. As for sightseeing, the Kimseys didn't have anything specific in mind, so we steered them to the Royal Mile, the famous stretch of museums, shops, and historic homes that's bookended by two palaces: Edinburgh Castle and Holyroodhouse. A century ago, the people of Uddingston made a living in the coal mines and steel and cotton factories around Glasgow. "My grandfather said he remembered a lot of fun and carousing in his youth," said Connie. "There was not much adult supervision due to all the men off fighting in World War I and the women working at temporary war-related jobs." When the war ended, Scotland found itself with more men than jobs, prompting Downs and others to leave. These days, Uddingston is a middle-class commuter town (population 5,000) on the ScotRail line between Edinburgh and Glasgow. Getting there would take a little over an hour. Connie wanted to look up her grandfather's old address, so instead of them wandering the streets of Uddingston willy-nilly, we suggested she print out maps and directions from streetmap.co.uk/ or theaa.com/. These sources also led us to discover that the Kimseys could walk a mile from town to where the Downs family had picnicked and played cricket years ago: Bothwell Castle, a massive medieval structure with most of its brick walls still standing. Another site, ancestralscotland.com/, is loaded with info on libraries, historical museums, and archive centers, should Connie want to do more research. The General Register Office in Edinburgh, accessible via the Web, has indexed records of every birth, death, and marriage in Scotland since 1855. Finally, after looking at several tours with Connie, we settled on a two-day trip with Timberbush Tours. For $108 per person, the Kimseys could cruise along in a small bus to must-sees such as Loch Ness and the rugged terrain of Glen Nevis, where scenes from Braveheart and Rob Roy were filmed. Enjoy Scotland, Connie!