10 Incredible National Parks of Canada

Prices in Alaska during summer can be crazy, we won't lie to you (full disclosure: the bugs can be awfully hungry in summer too). Hotels and transportation may be double or more than their winter rates. Alaskan businesses have to make up in the tourist-popular summer what they lose in the locals-only wintertime. But don't worry, we'll show you some of the secrets in visiting the southcentral region of Alaska and Anchorage cheaply in its glorious and, yes, warm summer (temperatures in the 60s to 80s). In this, the state with the lowest population density in the U.S. (less than one person per square mile, compared to over 1,000 people per square mile in New Jersey), and where two-thirds of the land mass is set aside as protective wilderness, the idea of a city is a novelty. But Anchorage is just that--a sprawling, very American metropolis with gleaming buildings built during the oil-rich '80s, and fast food restaurants, mini malls, and an espresso stand on every corner (to help the residents keep up with the eternal summer sunshine, day and night). Sure, its utilitarian aura may not make it the most attractive city in the U.S., but what other city may have moose strolling through its downtown, or bears living in its suburbs? Alaska's epic wilderness may overwhelm the entire state and its inhabitants, but Anchorage puts up a good fight. It's an entire city (and a rather new one, having been established in 1914) carved directly out of nature. Nearly half of the state's population of 600,000 reside here. Rare is the tourist who comes to Alaska just to see Anchorage. But almost every tourist spends a good amount of time here since this is where nearly everyone flies in and out of, and sets up excursions to the wilderness in the surrounding southcentral part of the state. In fact, you can get an excellent dose of nature by simply doing day trips out of Anchorage, which many tourists do. Anchorage is a rambling, friendly town, filled with stoic parking lots, refurbished wooden houses, flashy skyscrapers, and a spacious, mellow atmosphere. And Anchorage has more hidden treasures to it than its first Spartan impression gives you. All that oil money has been put to good use, funneled into arts centers, museums, civic halls, and well-maintained parks. And unlike most tourist towns, the locals love hanging out with people from "Outside" (meaning anywhere outside Alaska) and divulging local secrets. First, when planning to visit Alaska anytime before October (the weather stays nice through September), book early, since this is high high season. Although Anchorage has the largest selection of lodging in the state, even the banal Econolodge starts at $120 a night for a blah room. So stay away from the Sheratons and Days Inns and look to Anchorage's great accommodation secret: B&Bs that are scattered all around town, even in tourist-popular downtown. They're cheaper and lot more fun than brand hotels, and you have built-in hosts to fill you in on the hows and whys of the city. Check out anchorage-bnb.com/ for a complete list of B&Bs. One highly recommended one is the B&B on the Park (800/353-0878, bedandbreakfastonthepark.net/). It's a full fledge log cabin right in the heart of Anchorage, looking somewhat like a wooden fort. Run by long-time residents Helen and Stella, you're served a full homemade breakfast in the dining room, animal skins adorn the walls, and the rates start at just $100 a night. If you're willing to stay a little north of town in the Eagle Creek area, there is the Alaska Chalet B&B (877/694-1528, alaskachaletbb.com/), with summer rates starting at an amazing $55 for their "Rise and Shine" room, paneled in cedar wood and including a private bath, TV, phone and fridge and a quilted, homey feel. The house is wooden too, with an outside deck with mountain views all around. For $95 a night for a double, the popular Oscar Gill House (907/279-1344,oscargill.com/) is a great deal. Built in 1913, this historic downtown B&B offers Body Shop toiletries, family-style breakfasts, and three rooms with clawfoot bathtubs and antique furnishings. Or for a splurge that's worth every penny, check out the Copper Whale (888-WHALE-IN, copperwhale.com/), one of the best B&Bs in the state, with a wonderful garden complete with espresso bar, incredible views of the inlet, spacious rooms, and a super helpful staff. Rooms start at $125 in the summer for a double. And don't just leave Anchorage in a mad rush to see Alaska's stunning wilderness. The city can prep you for your wilderness adventures quite well with its well-oiled infrastructure (pun intended!). Your first stop before you even get to Anchorage should be the excellent web site travelalaska.com/, overflowing with maps, food and lodging info, public parks details, events, packages, and more. After you get your fill online, stop by the visitors center housed in rustic log cabin along 4th Avenue in the heart of the downtown (907/276-4118 anchorage.net/). You can't miss it--it's the only building in Anchorage with tall flowers and grasses growing from its roof! After that, you'll want to check out some of Anchorage's museums and attractions that will educate you about the state so you know what you're looking at later. The Alaska Native Heritage Center (907/330-8000, alaskanative.net/) is a bit expensive at $20.95 a head, but for those interested in the ancient cultures of Alaska, it's a must. You can watch artists at work, and daily programs include traditional storytelling, dances, games, and clothing and canoe presentations. Less interactive but much cheaper is the Anchorage Museum of History and Art (907/343-6173, anchoragemuseum.org/, $6.50), full of contemporary Alaskan art, ancient crafts, and historical photographs. It's fun if for nothing else the fact that you can walk through life-size dioramas of detailed and authentic native homes. It may seem strange to visit a zoo in a city where wild critters roam freely everywhere, but be sure to stop by the Alaska Zoo (4731 O'Malley Road, 907/346-2133, alaskazoo.org/, $9), since it may be your only chance to see a real Alaskan polar bear (they are only found way north of Anchorage). You'll also see other wolverines and native grizzlies here--a much better option than on a hiking trail! For local eats, try the Snow City Café (4th Avenue and L Street, 907/272-2489, snowcitycafe.com/), a low key but hip hangout with lots of windows and fake snowflakes dangling from the ceiling. Prices range from $5-$10 for breakfasts and lunch (it closes at 2 PM), and be sure to try the signature (and huge) Crabby Omelet stuffed with Alaskan Dungeness crab for $9.95. Another must is the Bear's Tooth Theatre Pub (1230 W. 27th Ave., 907/276-4200, beartooththeatre.net/), with Lemon Greek Salads for $7.95, Asian Chicken Wraps for $6.95, and Chipotle Steak Burritos for $7.95. But the best thing about Bear's Tooth is that you can munch on these yummies while watching $3 Hollywood movies in their full-fledge theater! (Leave it to the Alaskans to refine the art of enjoying themselves indoors.) And Anchorage has quite the nightclub and lounge scene too. Stop by Bernie's Bungalow (626 D Street, 907/276-8808, berniesbungalowlounge.com/), a local hotspot with a hopping outdoor patio where the cool of Anchorage sip on martinis and Alaskan brews while listening to live music and gossiping. So don't bolt out of Anchorage just because the hinterland is calling--this American outpost has many hidden budget treasures for those willing to look beyond its no-nonsense façade.

I'm sure the executive types who staff Seattle's cluster of gleaming steel-and-glass skyscrapers show up for work in Nordstrom's finest pinstripes. But down on the sidewalks, the rest of the folks are apt to be decked out in hiking boots, down parkas, and other hardy outdoor wear. And for good reason. A budget traveler's haven, Seattle is an out-of-doors city - an exciting urban center of fine art galleries, museums, and concert halls wrapped closely by a rugged Northwest wilderness of expansive seascapes and soaring, snow-tipped mountains. Cosmopolitan pleasures here are served up with frontier flavor. In Seattle you really want to be outdoors, where the crisp air - a mix of tangy sea and icy mountain - puts a bounce in your step in any season. This is a city made for walking, and walking is the best and cheapest way for a cost-conscious visitor to explore. No need to pay big bucks to rent a car or hail a taxi; you can get almost anywhere you will want to be on foot. Too much walking for you? On downtown streets, Metro Transit buses are free. Step aboard and tour in comfort. As in many foreign cities, Seattle's captivating street scenes - its dramatic architecture, parks, amazing collection of contemporary crafts shops, and panoramic views - are what you will remember most. And none costs a penny. You really can have a terrific time on foot, as I did recently, without spending more than a few bucks on entertainment. Inviting lodging and cozy cafes, all within the bustling city center, are easy on the budget, too. A big-city dweller myself, I found plenty to keep me busy. On self-guided walking tours, I explored several very different close-in neighborhoods, seeking out the many free and rewarding things to see and do. Initially, I expected to spend my time at Seattle's fee-charging museums and other attractions. But the free stuff proved more interesting, and I really wanted to be outdoors more. At any point where my energy flagged, one of the city's famed coffee houses stood just a few steps away. Architectural oddities As I walked, I paid special attention to the pleasing architecture, both contemporary and historic, juxtaposed on the city's steep, roller-coaster hillsides. A few whimsical oddities got me chuckling. One curious eye-catcher - a massive glass box at the REI outdoor sports store - turns out to house one of the world's tallest indoor climbing walls. Climbers inch to the top of its 65-foot summit, while a line at the bottom waits to follow. At Seattle Center, site of the soaring 605-foot-high Space Needle, the latest architectural curiosity is the futuristic structure designed by the acclaimed Frank Gehry for the Experience Music Project, a rock music museum (entrance fee, $19.95; skip it). A Technicolor mass of undulating metal, it resembles the crumpled sheets of an unmade bed. Is Gehry's style art for the future or a passing fancy like Cadillac fins? Judge for yourself. One recent morning I strolled along the waterfront, watching cargo ships sail past on Puget Sound. A brass plaque at Waterfront Park marks the site where a ship from Alaska docked in 1897 carrying a legendary "ton of gold," sparking the great Klondike Gold Rush. Across the Sound, the 7,000-foot-high Olympic Mountains play hide-and-seek in the clouds. At Steamers (two waterfront locations), I stopped for a fresh, reasonably priced Northwest seafood lunch with a water view. A basket of prawns and chips made a tasty meal at just $7.29. Another day, I wandered the exotic streets of Chinatown, the International District, where inexpensive cafes serve a kaleidoscope of Asian foods. Looking like a rich Chinese temple, the Ocean City Restaurant tempted with a six-course Family Kowloon Dinner. Just $9.95 with tea. Uwajimaya, a massive Japanese food-and-gift market, is stocked with odd fruits and vegetables you won't find at your neighborhood Safeway. Recognize gobo, a Japanese turnip, or lobar, a Korean radish? Nope. Opting for a more recognizable treat, I tried an 80[cents] coconut tart from the Yummy House Bakery. In the next stall, a uniformed crew of Japanese women assembled trays of carry-out sushi and bento boxes for the lunch crowd. Across the street, a warehouse-size shop called Eileen of China is filled with fine Asian antiques and porcelains. As if I were in a great museum, I roamed the aisles intrigued by such items as two beautifully hand-carved chairs, priced at $8,000 for the pair. Briefly I tested one for comfort. You can't do that in any museum. Artworks in glass As much as anything, though, I marveled at the quality of Seattle's many contemporary arts and crafts galleries, popping up in clusters almost everywhere I turned. I discovered that Seattle is second only to Venice in the number of studios creating colorful artworks in glass. Giant sculptures by Dale Chihuly, who launched Seattle's adventure with glass-blowing 30 years ago, can be easily seen at Benaroya Hall, where the Seattle Symphony plays, and in the lobby of the nearby Alexis Hotel. In and out I went, shop after shop, feasting my eyes for free. On I strolled during my penny-pincher's tour. A prime (indeed, indispensable) destination for any visitor afoot is the sprawling Pike Place Market, reputedly the nation's oldest continually working farmer's market (since 1907). Overlooking the harbor, it's a crazy, crowded scene where fishmongers play catch with salmon, vendors sing the praises of their fresh produce, and street musicians serenade with Mozart airs. Out front, the life-size bronze pig called Rachel is an example of Seattle's trove of public art, all viewable for free to foot travelers. For a cheap meal, enjoy a hearty buffet breakfast or lunch at the aptly named Sound View Cafe, for only about $3.50. Also at the market, check out Ticket/Ticket, the half-price, day-of-show ticket booth. Seattle loves theater, ranking third (Seattle claims) behind New York and Chicago in the number of professional theaters. When I stopped by, the booth listed two dozen choices, including an acclaimed production of Macbeth by the Seattle Shakespeare Company. Tucked into a nearby alleyway, the popular Market Theater features improvisational comedy for just $10 (full-price) Friday and Saturday, $5 Sunday. The young crowd from two nearby hostels loves the place. The Klondike boom Seattle's frontier past unfolds on a walk through Pioneer Square, a neighborhood of more art galleries, boutiques, and pubs displaying a fine Victorian face. Period street lights are decorated with baskets filled with flowers, a pleasant setting for outdoor cafés. Pause at the Visitor Center of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park; the little museum features exhibits and movies detailing Seattle's role in the Klondike gold rush. Thousands of adventurers poured into town en route to the gold fields, giving the young lumber center a major economic boost. The museum is free, as are the almost daily readings by notable authors at the Elliott Bay Book Company just up the street. All rough wood beams and odd nooks and crannies, the huge store is so cozy I stopped by to browse every afternoon. Almost everywhere, glorious views of Puget Sound boost your spirits. And so, like me, you'll want to get on the water. The budget way is to board one of the Washington State Ferries for a round-trip cruise to a nearby island. The 35-minute ferry to Bainbridge Island, a popular choice, departs almost hourly, costing just $4.50 each-way. My head spun as I relished the Olympic views ahead and Seattle's thrilling skyline in our wake. More information Getting There: Budget-priced Southwest, JetBlue, and Frontier airlines serve Seattle, getting your trip off to an economical start. To reach downtown, catch Metro Transit bus 194, about a 25-minute ride costing $2 rush hour, $1.25 non-rush. The Airport Express bus (206/626-6088) charges $8.50 one way; $14 round-trip. Before leaving the airport, stop at the visitor information booth for a free booklet of discount coupons to many of Seattle's most interesting attractions. Lodging: A year-round destination, Seattle boasts a mild climate that tends to be cooler and damper in winter. Bring that parka in any season. But hotel and motel rates are generally cheaper from November through April, dropping as much as 50 percent. High-season rates are provided for these recommended lodgings: Least expensive: Near Pike Place Market, the 193-bed Hostelling International facility (888/622-5443), $19 to $26, or the 37-room Green Tortoise Backpackers Hostel (206/340-1222), $20. Best buy for families: Also near the market, the well-kept Moore Hotel, a historic 120-room property (800/421-5508), a real find at $67 for two. Intriguingly funky: Near the International District, the historic, mostly restored 100-room Panama Hotel (206/223-9242), $65 for two with shared bath. Chic boutique: In Belltown near the Space Needle, the hip 30-room Ace Hotel (206/448-4721), starting at $65 per room with shared bath. Motel country: Also near the Space Needle, the 68-room Kings Inn (800/546-4760), $75 per room weekdays/$85 weekends, or the 73-room Travelodge Downtown (800/578-7878), $89. Dining: For a wide choice of Asian meals under $10, head for the International District and scan the menus in dozens of windows. Closer to city center hotels, Belltown bustles with well-priced cafes, many serving contemporary Northwest menus. Try the neighborly Belltown Pub & Cafe (salmon-cake dinner, $11.95); the similarly cozy Virginia Inn (crab-cake plate, $10.50); Sonya's (beer-baked fish and chips, $9); Zeek's Pizza (the gourmet "tree-hugger" for two, $13.50); and the stylish little Noodle Ranch (grilled pork with Vietnamese marinade, $8.50). Information: Seattle Convention & Visitors Bureau (206/461-5840, seeseattle.org).

C'est possible? A crop of sleek new economy hotels in one of Europe's most notorious graveyards for vacation budgets? With good, clean rooms as cheap as $46 a night? Mais oui. Though you'll find them in almost no American guidebooks, a slew of slickly modern (for the most part) budget hotels called Ibis have stealthily emerged within the city limits of Paris, most of them near metro (subway) stops a five-minute ride from the Seine. Operated by Accor Hotels (800/221-4542), which owns Motel 6 and Red Roof Inns in the States, Ibis' Parisian branches now total several thousand rooms in 57 individual properties, of which 20 are in the central city and 37 more in the suburbs beyond the peripherique ring road. Taking a leaf from les americains, the cookie-cutter Ibises have become the McDonald's of European budget lodgings (486 such properties are scattered across the continent) by taking the guesswork out of finding reliable modern digs with certain minimum features: private bathroom, TV, phone, and room service (though not always air-conditioning). Rates in Paris (with the exception of one property) run 330-545 francs ($46-$78) per double (singles just slightly less)--not including another $5.40 for the buffet breakfast and $10 for three-course meals. All properties have elevators, most have bars, and many have restaurants, as well as 24-hour hot snack service; locations are in good yet relatively less expensive neighborhoods. Drawbacks? Attractive but tiny, rather clumsily designed rooms with papier-thin walls; severely limited storage space; bathrooms not easily maneuvered by the "full-figured" among us; lack of frills like shampoo and desks with actual drawers; and service sometimes closer to traditional Parisian hauteur and sullenness than to the perky "customer-is-always-right" approach of, say, America's Microtel. And if you want local color and charm, find a more traditional petit hotel down the boulevard (our recommendations for that in a soon-to-come issue). But with that in mind, and abetted by one of the most impressive exchange rates in years (recently around 7 francs to the dollar) and info on the 20 key "inside-the-beltway" Ibises, you can have even a modest budget singin' on the Seine. Right Bank Ibis Gare de L'Est 165 rooms with air-conditioning, some for nonsmokers/disabled; bar, restaurant, on-premises parking; single $60, double $66. A couple of blocks from the grand Gare de l'Est and Gare du Nord train stations, this yellow, eight-floor updated version of classic nineteenth-century Parisian design (complete with mansard roofs) is walkable to many shops and restaurants in its workaday neighborhood. 197-199 rue La Fayette, 10th arrondissement; tel. 44-65-70-00, fax 44-65-70-07. Ibis Gare L'Est/Boulevard de Strasbourg 68 AC rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, parking; single $64, double $68. An early twentieth-century building with a relaxing lobby, it's on a quiet little lane named for the atmospheric fifteenth-century stone church around the corner. 6 rue Saint Laurent, 10th arr.; 40-38-05-05, fax 42-05-71-16. Ibis Lafayette 70 AC rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; single $62, double $69. Intimate in a 1990s kind of way, it's got a cute little reception/bar area, a charming yard with ivy-covered walls, trees, tables, and chairs. Or hang out with Parisians of all ages across the street in the petite park adjoining the imposing, neoclassical St. Vincent de Paul. 122 rue La Fayette, 10th arr.; 45-23-27-27, fax 42-46-73-79. Ibis Republique 67 rooms, nonsmoking; bar; single $62, double $66. Steps from the place de la Republique and an easy stroll to Chatelet-Les Halles and the Op,ra, the handsome gray town house dating from 1896 mixes six floors of standard-issue rooms with local flavor like a genteel white foyer and stone vaults in the basement breakfast room. 9 rue Leon Jouhaux, 10th arr.; 42-40-40-11-12, fax 42-40-11-12. Ibis Jemmapes Louis Blanc 49 rooms, disabled; restaurant; single $60, double $67. Tucked onto a very quiet side street near a canal and lined with modern apartment houses, the eight-story, sand-color older building has been renovated beyond recognition. It's unexceptional but certainly pleasant, and a short hop to busy boulevard La Fayette; for peace and quiet, a great choice. 12 rue Louis Blanc, 10th arr.; 42-01-21-21, fax 42-08-21-40. Ibis Bastille 305 rooms, nonsmoking, disabled; bar, restaurant, parking; single $64, double $71. Punctuated by porthole-style bathroom windows, it's an easy walk to place de la Bastille with its mod performance hall, and to ritzy place des Vosges and the medieval Marais. Nearby is a very happening (and late) nightlife along rue de la Roquette and rue de Lappe, as well as neat street markets along boulevard Richard Lenoir. 15 rue Breguet, 11th arr.; 49-29-20-20, fax 49-29-20-30. Ibis Menilmontant Pere-Lachaise 31 rooms, nonsmoking; bar; single $61, double $66. On a side street in a low-key working-class area-once the stomping ground of Maurice Chevalier and Edith Piaf and now enjoying a retro resurgence among cool Parisians - this yellow Ibis is small and friendly. And necrophiles will dig the nearby Pere-Lachaise cemetery, one of the world's most beautiful, where you can commune with the likes of Colette, Jim Morrison, and Oscar Wilde. Rue la Folie Regnault, 11th arr.; 53-36-82-92, fax 53-36-82-99. Ibis Bercy Expo 195 AC rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; parking, bar, restaurant; rooms $60. Fans of modern architecture will like this sleek sandstone-faced property, next to a huge movie multiplex and a food trade-show hall (often open to the public). Even more interesting is the newly restored thirteenth-century village of Bercy, its former wine warehouses hosting shops, restaurants, and the Club Med World entertainment complex. 19 place des Vins de France, 12th arr.; 49-28-06-06, fax 49-28-06-20. Ibis Gare de Lyon 119 AC rooms; nonsmoking; parking; single $69, double $71. Among the grand town houses along this big, bustling thoroughfare, this one's a bit plainer than most, yet still fits right in. A nice bonus: the backyard with tables/chairs and 20 rooms that look out on it. Locally, don't miss picturesque little side streets like rue Cremieux. 41-43 ave. Ledru Rollin, 12th arr.; 53-02-30-30, fax 53-02-30-31. Ibis Porte de Clichy 700 AC rooms; bar, restaurant, parking; single $62, double $76-$90. The biggest and newest Ibis in Paris is hidden off the avenue up in the northwest corner of town, not too far from Montmartre. Big with tour groups, the 15-year-old, nine-floor behemoth taken into the fold just last year offers three-star amenities at two-star prices, including several bars and restaurants and a swimming pool and fitness center (though for the latter you pay $25-$55 extra). 163 bis, avenue de Clichy, 17th arr.; 40-25-20-20, fax 40-25-26-00. Ibis Montmartre 326 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, restaurant; single $64, double $71. Attached to one of Accor's (more upscale) Mercure hotels and wedged between a parking garage and a shopping mall just outside romantic Montmartre, its public spaces are plastered with murals evoking "olde Paris." A good "big hotel" option for folks wanting walkability to the famous artists' quarter, Sacre Cour, the Moulin Rouge, and such. 5 rue Caulaincourt, 18th arr.; 55-30-18-00, fax 55-30-19-18. Ibis Sacre Coeur 68 rooms, nonsmoking; bar, parking; single $55, double $60. A more intimate choice with an excellent location amid the tourist buses and tchotchke shops lining the boulevard just below Sacr, Cour and Montmartre, this nineteenth-century town house boasts nice views of the skyline from some of its ninth-floor rooms. And of course there are the Pigalle porn parlors right down the street, if that's your bag. 100 blvd. Rochechouart, 18th arr.; 46-06-99-17, fax 42-55-42-26. Ibis La Villette 284 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, restaurant, parking; rooms $46. On a bend in the idyllic Ourq Canal in Paris's extreme northeast, it's funkier looking than most Ibises, with its blues, yellows, and vaguely Deco-looking touches. Why stay way up here? The groovy multiethnic (especially African and Sephardic Jewish) neighborhood and the futuristic Science City, with its unmissable "geode" gleaming like a giant pinball. 31-35 quai de l'Oise, 19th arr.; 40-38-58-00, fax 40-38-04-04. Left Bank Ibis Cambronne Tour Eiffel 523 rooms, nonsmoking; bar, restaurant, parking; single $65, double $72. Just off the cobblestone place Cambronne, eight floors of modern white tile are a little jarring amid gracious nineteenth-century structures. But one of Paree's biggest Ibises is nicely situated not just for Gustave Eiffel's famous phallic symbol (with its new sparkly lights, switched on nightly for ten minutes each hour), but also the Invalides, the Musee d'Orsay, and lots more. 2 rue Cambronne, 15th arr.; 40-61-22-22, fax 40-61-21-21. Ibis Gare Montparnasse 30 AC rooms; nonsmoking/disabled; rooms $78. At the corner of two major tree-lined thoroughfares within sight of the Montparnasse skyscraper, this facade's stripes and mirrored glass stand out among the more traditional architecture of a nabe hopping with businesspeople by day and bar/restaurantgoers by night. Oh, and if you're in the mood for a browse through French Foreign Legion memorabilia, or military doodads dating back to the Battle of the Marne, duck into the surplus store right around the corner. 71 blvd. de Vaugirard, 15th arr.; 43-20-89-12, fax 43-22-77-71. Ibis Maine Montparnasse 102 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; parking; single $58, double $65. On a small street in a low-key residential area sprinkled with mom-and-pop restaurants and shops, two early-twentieth-century buildings were painted red and beige and turned into one Ibis (a couple of whose top-floor rooms have terraces). The nearby arrondissement town hall is like a smaller version of the imposing Hotel de Ville; two slightly morbid but highly worthwhile sights within striking distance are the catacombs and the Montparnasse Cemetery (say hi to celebs like Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir). 160 rue du Chxteau, 14th arr.; 43-22-00-09, fax 43-20-21-78. Ibis Albesia 264 AC rooms, disabled; bar, restaurant, parking; single $60, double $65. For les shopaholiques (apologies to the Academie Francaise), have we got an Ibis for you: it's just off Rue d'Alesia, crammed with stores both cheap and cher - and you can even snag discontinued haute couture for a fraction of the price. The hotel's big, its standard beige facade tarted up with mirrored glass rising from the flag-adorned entrance. Nearby, don't miss the 1861 St. Pierre de Montrouge church, its interior done in "primitive" Roman style. 49 rue des Plantes, 14th arr.; 40-44-50-51, fax 40-44-53-44. Ibis Brancion "Expo" 71 rooms, some AC, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, parking; rooms $57. Blending in perfectly among the apartment blocks of an outlying neighborhood just inside the p,riph,rique, it's a great choice for joggers and others appreciating a break from the hustle and bustle of central Paris: right across the street is the lovely Parc Brassens, which contains an antique book market and the respected Sylvia Montfort Theater. 105 rue Brancion, 15th arr.; 56-56-62-30, fax 56-56-62-31. Ibis Place d'Italie 58 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; parking; single $62, double $66. Joining two other two-star hotels on a very peaceful residential street, this six-floor affair fronted by gray tiles, steel, and glass has a whiff of the Bauhaus. The place d'Italie area itself is tres diverse, from the stores (including a mammoth shopping mall) of avenue d'Italie to attractions like the Botanical Garden and a natural history museum. 25 ave. Stephen Pichon, 13th arr.; 44-24-94-85, fax 44-24-20-70. Ibix Italie Tolbiac 60 rooms; nonsmoking/disabled; bar; single $60, double $62. Below place d'Italie and several blocks off bustling avenue d'Italie on a quiet leafy street next to a "Zen boutique," it's convenient to the Quartier Chinois (Chinatown), which though dinkier even than Washington, D.C.'s still has some neat restaurants, shops, and even a temple with an impressive Buddha statue. On a more Christian note, check out nearby St. Anne de la Maison Blanche, with its soaring nave, star-spangled barrel vault, and gorgeous stained glass. 177 rue de Tolbiac, 13th arr.; 45-80-16-60, fax 45-80-95-80. Birds on the wire Before the phone numbers in this article, dial 011-33-1. You can also book or get a directory of properties worldwide at 800/221-4542 in the U.S. or ibishotels.com.

It once housed the dreaded leper colony of Hawaii, which obviously caused tourists to shun and avoid it. But though leprosy was essentially eliminated as a health threat by the development of sulfa drugs in the 1940s, the once-isolated island was slow to overcome its former reputation. In fact, it is still blissfully undeveloped and totally without hotel towers or gaudy shopping malls. On rural, remote Moloka'i, you enjoy a Hawaiian vacation filled with the culture of the islands, moderately priced, and rich with outdoor activities that are either free or cost next to nothing. Less than 70,000 travelers a year make the 20-minute flight from Honolulu to this tiny isle, slightly less than 38 miles by 10 miles in size. In an age of rental jeeps, helicopter tours, and submarine rides, Moloka'i retains the lifestyle and culture of the past. When you step off the plane at Moloka'i's tiny airport, a sign greets you, saying, "Slow down, you're on Moloka'i now." To each other, the population speaks Hawaiian. Not everything on the island is bargain-priced, but with a bit of planning and a decision to focus on free outdoor activities, you can have both a rewarding and affordable vacation. You will spend your days in such noncommercial activities as floating in the warm tropical waters above a rainbow array of exotic fish, or walking through the mist of low-lying clouds into a primeval forest, or venturing back in time at a sacred Hawaiian temple, once used for human sacrifice. Your nonstandard lodgings The most expensive item (outside of your airfare to Hawaii) will be accommodations. But the cost can be less than on any other island if you simply make the decision to stay in nonhotel lodgings. The easiest and quickest way to book accommodations on Moloka'i is to call Karen Buhr, of The Travel Shoppe, 800/657-9112 or 808/553-3671, fax 808/553-3672, e-mail travelshoppe@oldhawaii.com. Her one-stop booking agency handles nearly all the accommodations on Moloka'i (some 400 plus), including all of the budget accommodations. Rates range from privately owned studios in condominiums for $50 a day to bed-and-breakfast units for $75 or two-bedroom vacation homes for $85. Most of the units are at least near the ocean (with a good many right on it) at prices that would be 30 to 50 percent higher on any other Hawaiian island. B&Bs are generally cheapest. A typical example is Ka Hale Mala (808/553-9009, molokai-bnb.com), with four large rooms, private entrance through the garden, and a fully equipped kitchen. The owners generously share pickings from their organic garden and can direct you to all the sights on the island. Ka Hale Mala is priced at just $70 per double (without breakfast) or $80 (with breakfast). There are also low-priced vacation cottages in the scenic East End of Moloka'i. Families looking to get away from it all can escape to a 14,000-acre ranch of pastures and forests, plus a private beach minutes away, at the Country Cottage at Pu'u O Hoku Ranch (808/558-8109, puuohoku.com). The two-bedroom cottage ($125 for two guests, $20 more for each additional person) is surrounded by a tropical landscape and has breathtaking views of rolling hills and the Pacific Ocean, comfortable country furniture, a fully equipped kitchen, two baths, a big living area, and a separate dining room on the enclosed lanai (porch). If you must have the amenities of a hotel, the rustic 45-room Hotel Moloka'i (800/367-5004 or 808/545-3510, castleresorts.com), located on the ocean, just a mile-and-a-half from the main town of Kaunakakai, offers comfortable rooms in a cluster of Polynesian-like huts, with a restaurant, swimming pool, and lounge on site. Rooms start at $78 for two, $58 with an Internet booking. Getting around Your second major cost will be transportation. Unfortunately, since there's no public transportation on the island, bicycling, hiking, or renting a car are the way to go. Car rentals start at $35 a day, from either Island Kine Auto Rental (808/553-5242, e-mail cars@molokai-aloha.com, Budget (808/567-6877), or Dollar (866/434-2226). Bicycles run from $27 a day ($140 a week), from Moloka'i Outdoor Activities, in the lobby of the Hotel Moloka'i, toll-free 877/553-4477, or molokai-outdoors.com. And off you go The best place to begin an island tour is in the main town of Kaunakakai, once an ancient canoe landing, now the main commercial, financial, and recreational center of the island -- all three blocks of it. Kaunakakai looks like something out of an old Hollywood B movie: Western-style storefronts, complete with dusty streets, somnolent dogs, and talkative storekeepers who stop to ask you where you are from and give their opinion on the best places to see. Kaunakakai is literally the geographical center of the island. On one side of town a cactus stands, palms raised, announcing entry to the arid West End with its dramatic contrast of austere rust-colored soil sloping down to the sapphire-blue ocean. On the other side lies a lush tropical jungle, like something out of a Gauguin painting; it marks the beginning of the bay-studded and voluptuous vegetation of the East End. Kaunakakai also is the location of the island's free tennis courts in the Mitchell Pauole Center. Tennis rackets can be rented from Moloka'i Outdoor Activities (see above) starting at $4.95 a day (or $19.95 a week). The West End: Moloka'i's ranch and finest beach A thriving Hawaiian community before Western contact, the West End of the island today is dominated by Moloka'i Ranch (whose ownership of over 60,000 acres includes just about the entire west end). The Ranch mixes a working cattle operation and an ecotourism business (which consists of three luxury "safari"-type campsites and an upscale lodge, plus numerous outdoor activities, ranging from kayaking to horseback-riding). The budget-conscious will want to skip the activities and accommodations of the Moloka'i Ranch and head for one of Hawaii's largest and most dramatic beaches, Papohaku. Nearly three miles long and 100 yards wide (you can spend a day here and never see another soul), the intense beauty of this sandy beach lies in sharp contrast to the muted-beige and rust tones of the tropical desert and the surreal cerulean blue of the sea. Great for beachcombing, picnics, and sunsets year-round, the thunderous surf at Papohaku makes swimming risky during much of the year, except in the summer when the furious ocean calms down to a placid lake. Best of all, a day at the beach is absolutely free. The East End For gentler, swimming-and-snorkeling-friendly beaches, head for the East End. The Kamehameha V Highway, a narrow two-lane country road named after Hawaii's fifth king, meanders along the palm-tree-lined south shore of the island. Before you leave Kaunakakai, pick up groceries (restaurants and eateries are limited on this tiny isle) at Friendly Market Center, 808/553-5595, or at Misaki Grocery and Dry Goods, 808/553-5505. Or stop and get some beach toys from Moloka'i Outdoor Activities (see above), like snorkeling equipment ($7.95 a day or $31.95 a week), kayaks (from $13 an hour), or boogie boards (just $5.95 a day). As you continue eastward along the serpentine country road, notice the rock formations along the shoreline. These are ancient Hawaiian fish ponds, the equivalent of modern fish-farming, practiced by Moloka'i residents several centuries before Captain Cook "discovered" Hawaii. Many of the fish ponds have been restored so the ingenious system once again allows water and nutrients to flow into the pens to fatten up the fish inside. The result: a constant supply of fresh fish. Tours are free; contact the Moloka'i Visitors Association, P.O. Box 960, Kaunakakai, HI 96748, 800/800-6367, fax 808/553-5288, or molokai-hawan.com. A cultural highlight further east is the Ili'ili'opae Heiau, the Shrine of Sacrifice. A dense canopy of vegetation leads from the road up to the charcoal-gray volcanic rock heiau (or sacred temple), which was used both for human sacrifice and as a "university" for training the priests (some called them sorcerers) from other islands. You can visit this archaeological wonder free; contact the Visitors Association (see above) to arrange permission from the property owner, or you can go via horseback through Moloka'i Horse and Wagon Ride, 808/558-8132, for just $40. As you continue down the palm-tree-lined coastal road, numerous little coves with white sand beaches appear. One of the best snorkeling beaches along this coast is Kumimi Beach Park, locally known as Murphy Beach Park. Shaded by tall ironwood trees, which line the powdery white sand beach, this is a particularly good area for a picnic (all the fixings for homemade lunches are available, for under $5, at the Neighborhood Store 'N Counter, located near the 16-mile marker on the East End, 808/558-8498). How to get to Moloka'i There are no direct flights from the continental United States to Moloka'i. You can fly directly to either Honolulu or Kahului, Maui, and then take a commuter airline to Moloka'i. The four airlines that serve Moloka'i are: Moloka'i Air Shuttle (808/545-4988), with the lowest airfares -- around $70 round-trip from Honolulu (however, their Honolulu terminal is a $10 cab ride from the main airline terminal, and the planes are small commuter aircraft); Pacific Wings (888/575-4546, pacificwings.com), $155 round-trip, also a small commuter airplane; Hawaiian Airlines (800/367-5320, www.hawaiianair.com) the only jet service, and Island Air (800/323-3345, alohaair.com), with 37-passenger turboprop planes, both $200 round-trip.