Golfing Pebble Beach

When I was in college, several friends worked summers in a national park. I kick myself now that I didn't join them. They got a fun-filled vacation with pay. I returned each year to a waiting warehouse job in my hometown. It seemed like a prison sentence. Come fall, my buddies regaled me with tales of exciting outdoor adventures and the gorgeous coeds they met. I kept my mouth shut. Like mine, their jobs weren't great-washing dishes, serving tables, hauling trash. But those perks sure sounded terrific. Imagine it! Spending an entire summer at Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, or dozens of other parks. (Or working in the winter. The South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park never closes, and winter is prime time for exploring the exotic corners of Death Valley National Park.) Lots of great times with new friends. For outdoor addicts like me, it's a dream vacation. And you earn while you play. Now that's a travel bargain. Nowadays, students, retirees, and other folks still sign up for temporary park jobs as a way to see the country, have fun, and bank a little money. In most park jobs, count on receiving cheap lodging and meals. On days off, hiking, fishing, or swimming hardly cost more. It's a fact of park work: If you can't spend, you'll save. The big change in recent years is the Internet, which makes it easier to track down seasonal jobs. A number of Web sites offer updated details on temporary employment at parks and other outdoor destinations. Read on for a list of the most useful ones. And keep in mind some of the drawbacks to park work. If you can't handle being stuck in a remote wilderness outpost, try elsewhere next summer. Maybe my old warehouse job is open. Where (and what) the jobs are Park officials-the human resources managers who hire summer help-tell me that if you want a job, you almost certainly will find one. That is, if you're not picky about what park or (especially) the job you get. Generally, you will be asked to commit to a three-month stay. Think how amazed your parents-or spouse-will be to see the skill and speed with which you can make a bed after three months of cleaning lodge rooms. Sean LaBarge, 23, thinks he lucked out in his first park job. Unhappy pushing burgers at a fast-food outlet in Yuma, Arizona, he spotted a Web posting for a front-desk job at the famed Bright Angel Lodge at Grand Canyon National Park. The chance to enhance his resume with an interesting white-collar job appealed to him. So did the Grand Canyon's cool summer temperatures, a sharp contrast to the scorching heat of the Yuma desert. When I talked to him, he had been on the job a month and was still enthusiastic about it. As a newcomer, he was paid $6.50 an hour, but raises could be expected. His two-person dorm room, just steps from the canyon rim, cost him $16 a week, and he ate well at the employee cafeteria for less than $10 a day. At these prices, "You can save a big bundle here," he told me. Uniforms are provided, but no health coverage. Employees must be at least 18 to live in a dorm. In his time off, LaBarge hiked into the canyon on the popular Bright Angel Trail. But Xanterra, the company that runs the Grand Canyon lodges, also maintains a staff recreation center, where he can use the fitness room or watch movies for free. Off-duty workers often unwind at the sports bar at nearby Maswik Lodge. A park job can be "a rich life experience," advises Bill Berg, 49, of Gardiner, Montana, and he ought to know. He launched a career at Wyoming's Yellowstone National Park in 1972 by pumping gas on his summers off from college. That's where he met his wife; she was pumping gas, too. His wife became a ranger, while he recruited employees for one of the park's concessionaires. That led in 1995 to CoolWorks.com (see its Web address below), the job-listing firm he founded. It was one of the first online databanks for seasonal park employment. "The parks are a real melting pot," Berg assures the adventurers, young and older, eager to follow in his footsteps. "You meet people from all over, and it's not at all hard to make friends. For people who live in an urban area, it's a great way to get to know the wilderness." Sometimes, as happened with Berg, the lifestyle gets in your blood. Some people swing from summer work in the parks to a winter job in a ski town. The big resorts routinely lure Yellowstone's summer temps with visions of deep powder and endless runs on the slopes. Still, what seems like a dream job for some might prove to be a nightmare. Dorm life can be a drag if you prefer privacy. And the nearest mall to the Grand Canyon is 90 miles away. The isolation gets to some people. LaBarge lost his first roommate early on. "I've had my fill of the Grand Canyon," the disgruntled young man told him. "I'm going home." Where to apply There are two basic alternatives. Ranger Ruth: The National Park Service, the federal agency that oversees more than 380 parklands, regularly hires seasonal help. Depending on your experience, you could spend the summer doing archaeological research; patrolling trails as a substitute ranger; leading campfire talks; fighting fires; staffing a search-and-rescue team; serving as a lifeguard; or tackling tasks such as collecting fees, planting shrubs or, yes, hauling trash. Housekeeper Harold: The other major alternative is to work for a concessionaire-one of the firms that manage the lodges, restaurants, and gift shops. A lucky few become fishing guides or kayak instructors. But first-timers are more likely to wait tables, wash dishes, or make beds. National Park Service jobs tend to pay more than the concessions jobs, but openings are fewer. At the Grand Canyon, one of America's busiest parks, the National Park Service employs about 540 people. Of these, 100 to 200 are seasonal and only work in summer, according to Larry Thompson, the park's human resources specialist. In contrast, Xanterra Parks & Resorts, the official concessionaire, keeps a summer work force of 1,200-about 400 of whom are seasonal, says Patrice Armstrong, its staffing manager. At Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming, the Grand Teton Lodge Company hires about 1,000 temps each summer. Choice jobs include boat captain (three to five slots per season), cowboy/wrangler (25), and van driver (six). At Yosemite National Park in California, the Yosemite Concession Services Corporation takes on 800 seasonal temps. You'll probably be an "unassigned hire," which means you take whatever job is open when you show up. Chances are you will clean rooms or dish up cafeteria food. If you want confirmed summer work, start looking by late winter. At Virginia's Shenandoah National Park, lodges line up temps as early as January or February, according to Debbie Zinn of ARAMARK Sports and Entertainment Services, the concessionaire. For a winter job, get moving by early fall, since fewer openings are available. But don't be discouraged if you miss out. Some hires fail to show up, and dropouts create last-minute openings. For a National Park Service job, consult the Web site of the park that interests you. Shenandoah, for example, is at www.nps.gov/shen and www.shenandoah.national-park.com/jobs.htm. Addresses for other parks with jobs include the Grand Canyon, www.nps.gov/grca; Yellowstone, www.nps.gov/yell; Yosemite, www.nps.gov/yose; Glacier, www.nps.gov/glac or www.glacier.national-park.com; Bryce Canyon, www.nps.gov/brca; and Redwood, www.nps.gov/redw-you'll easily be able to find or deduce others. For a national overview of positions, check the agency's seasonal employment site: www.sep.nps.gov. If you don't have Web access, call the National Park Service in Washington, D.C., at 202/208-5074. For a concessionaire job, check the concessionaire's Web site. (You can usually find it from the park's Web site.) Also check third-party sites listing openings. They include: CoolWorks.com (www.coolworks.com), the most comprehensive site, lists positions at more than 35 parks. Fun Jobs.com (www.funjobs.com) has fewer listings, but is useful. ResortJobs.com (www.resortjobs.com) and ActionJobs.com (www.actionjobs.com) sometimes post something interesting. So, now that I'm well out of college, is it too late for a temporary park job? A summer at Montana's Glacier National Park might be a great way to beat the heat. "Go for it," urged Alex, a clerk I met at the Bright Angel Lodge. A retired heavy-machine operator, Alex and his wife now hold temporary Grand Canyon jobs. "We're on a great adventure."

If your plan is to dine on scarce, succulent (and usually nonfatal) fugu fish, shop for designs by Issey Miyake, or score box seats for the Yomiuri Giants, you'll pay through the proverbial proboscis in Japan's capital city. If you're willing instead to brush up on chopsticks, learn to use a city map, and plan each step you take, you'll spend as little as you could (with a little help from the improved dollar-to-yen exchange rate) in many less expensive cities. After living penniless for my first six months in Tokyo, I realized the only way to thrive was to do my homework and legwork - and cut all spending by half. Herewith, the fruits of my labor; lift a cup of sake for me. (To call these numbers from the United States, first dial 011-81-3. Within Japan, but outside Tokyo, first dial 03.) 1. LOOK BEFORE YOU LEAP The worldwide Japan National Tourist Organization offices (JNTO, jnto.go.jp, japantravelinfo.com/offices.html) have an excellent brochure called "Your Traveling Companion Japan: with Tips for Budget Travel." Upon arrival, head to the Tourist Information Center (TIC) at Narita Airport (Terminals 1 and 2) or in town at the Tokyo International Forum (3-5-1 Marunouchi, 3201-3331; JR Yurakucho station) for other useful brochures. The Tokyo Convention and Visitors Bureau Web site (tcvb.or.jp) offers museum discount coupons ranging from ¥100 ($1) to half off admission to top museums: Print out and flash at the door. At bookshops or hotels, pick up freebie mags such as Tokyo Classified, Tokyo Noticeboard, and (for ¥600/$5) Tokyo Journal for decent bar/restaurant discounts. 2 A GOOD SCRUB Don't miss a Japanese sento (public bath), not only for a hearty scrub but also for a taste of old Japan; it can be single-sex or mixed, and towels, shampoo, and soap are provided (look for a chimney or a chimney logo). Some picks: Azabujuban Onsen (1-5-22 Azabujuban; Azabujuban station; closed Tuesdays), from ¥360 ($3); Tsuruno Yu (3-44-3 Yamatocho; Koenji station; closed Thursdays), ¥360; Asakusa Kannon Onsen (2-7-26 Asakusa; Asakusa station; closed Thursdays), ¥700 ($6). 3 TIGHT SQUEEZES Surely you've heard of those capsule hotels -- tiny rooms only big enough for a bed, lamp, and alarm clock. They're mainly men-only, but one or two welcome both men and women -- try, for example, Hotel Kawase (2-9-14 Kamiarimon, Taito-Ku, 3843-4910; Tawaramachi station), with doubles for ¥9,600 ($79), and Hotel Asakusa Capsule (4-14-9 Kotobuki, 3847-4477; Tawaramachi station) with singles at ¥2,600 ($22) and (very cozy!) semidoubles at ¥7,000 ($58). Some budget ryokan (inns) let you pack 'em in, too; Sakura Ryokan (2-6-2 Iriya, Taito Ku; 3876-8118; Iriya station) sleeps up to six people in a room at ¥3,600 ($30) per person. Bookings can be made through Welcome Inn Reservations. Alternatively, rent a tent at Wakasu Seaside Park (1 Wakasu; 5569-6701; Shin-kiba station), adults ¥400 ($3.50), children ¥200 ($2). 4 NARITA TO TOWN The cheapest way in from Narita (New Tokyo International Airport) is by Keisei Limited Express (info: JNTO Tourist Information Center at the airport) in the basements of Terminals 1 and 2. This costs ¥1,000 ($8.50), leaves every 20 minutes, and terminates at Ueno. From Ueno, the JR (Japan Railways) Yamanote line loops around central Tokyo, stopping off at major stations like Shinjuku (¥190/$2), Shibuya (¥190/$2), and Tokyo (¥150/$1.50). Second cheapest is the 80-minute JR Rapid train (terminal basements) direct into Tokyo station for ¥1,280 ($11). A prebooked JR East pass will cover Narita to Tokyo, Ikebekuro, or Shinjuku stations free of charge (normal fare from ¥2,940/$24.50) on the more luxurious Narita Express. This pass must be purchased outside Japan. Visit the Web site (jreast.co.jp/jrp/north.htm) for North American sales. 5 FEET FIRST Before leaping onto the subways or trains, make sure that traveling from A to B cannot be done on foot; most neighboring stations are just minutes away. Ginza to Higashi Ginza, for example, takes five minutes (exit A5, Ginza station), to go from Ginza to JR Yurakucho (for the TIC), simply cross the road, JR Yoyogi to JR Harajuku is a pleasant ramble across the park, and Meiji-Jingumae to Omotesando is a ten-minute stroll past art galleries (mostly free), cafes, and designer boutiques. Not only is this an excellent savings, it also helps break the jumbo city into bite-size chunks. (Just make sure you've got a good map to follow!) 6 HAPPY HOLE IN THE GROUND Avoid the subways and trains and you miss out on the vast, buzzing, underground world of shopping malls and cheap eats. Minimum fare is ¥160 ($1.50), but that won't get you far. If you have several journeys in mind and know where you want to go, the Teito Rapid Transit Authority (TRTA) one-day open ticket offers unlimited travel on all nine TRTA lines for ¥710 ($6); the Toei and Odakyu subways or JR train lines require separate payment. Most efficient and simple: a Passnet or SF Card (or for the JR lines, the IO card), from ¥1,000 ($8.50). They don't discount, but do save a lot of time and bother; you can buy them from ticket machines (there's usually a button in English). The fare is deducted automatically, so there's no fumbling for change. Also remember that most big hotels have regular free shuttle buses to nearby subway and train stations. 7 TWO-WHEELING TOKYO Every Sunday, first come first served, you can get a free bike at the Imperial Palace (1-1 Kokyo Gaien; Nijubashi-mae station, exit 2) or the Meiji Shrine (10 Kasumigaoka; JR Sendagaya station) and cycle around the gardens. 8 REST EASY Find discounted budget accommodation in business/Western hotels, ryokan inns, or youth hostels through the Welcome Inn Group (itcj.or.jp). Most budget hotels in Tokyo are members of this group (and some can be booked through its Web site), with daily rates not exceeding ¥8,000 ($66) per single, ¥13,000 ($107) double. They're clean, and most have English-speaking staff; the cheapest are likely to have communal bathrooms. Also: The Asia Center of Japan (10-32 Akasaka 8-Chome; 3402-6111; Nogisaka station) offers Western-style twins for ¥6,800 ($56); Yoyogi Youth Hostel (3-1 Kamizonocho; 3467-9163; Odakyu-Sangubashi station) has rooms at ¥3,000 ($25) per person and lets non-Hostelling International members stay for an extra ¥600 ($5). A rock-bottom option with singles at ¥2,500 ($21) is the New Koyo Hotel (2-26-13 Nihonzutumi, 3873-0343, newkoyo.com; Minowa station). Finally, the Hotel Hotline (jgl.biglobe.ne.jp/english) offers savings of up to 60 percent on more deluxe accommodations. 9 BANZAI BOX OFFICE Escape the busy weekend streets by catching a free (sometimes subtitled) blockbuster movie Saturdays and Sundays at 4:30 p.m. at the Sony Building (5-3-1 Ginza, sixth floor; Ginza station; book at 3573-5234). Movie theaters usually have a Wednesday "Ladies Night" when women pay ¥1,000 ($8.50). For English-language flicks, check out Yebisu Garden Cinema (Nibbankan 1F; 5420-6161; JR Ebisu station), Nihon Gekijo Cinema (Marion Building, 11th floor; 3574-1131; JR Yurakucho station), Marunouchi Piccadilly (2-5-1 Chiyoda-Ku, Yurakucho; 3201-2881; JR Yurakucho station). Movie listings can be found in the Tokyo freebie mags. 10 GOT BENTO? Convenience stores are the backbone of Tokyo life, and AmPm, 7-Eleven, Lawsons, Food Mart, and many others sell bento boxes -- compartments of cooked rice, vegetables, and meat -- for ¥300 ($2.50) to ¥700 ($6). For drinks, Japan is a land of vending machines -- ¥120 ($1) buys hot or iced coffee, green or black tea, and soft drinks; ¥220 ($2) gets you beer or sake. 11 HANDS ON Since interactivity's all the rage, spend an afternoon free of charge at the Sony Building (5-3-1 Ginza; Ginza station) with the latest PlayStation. Or head to the Cosmetic Garden showroom (1F Harajuku Piazza Building, 4-26-18 Jingumae; Meiji-Jingumae station) for a free total makeover. And try the free samples in food halls in basements of departments stores like Isetan (3-14-1 Shinjuku; JR Shinjuku station), Tokyu Plaza (1-2-2 Dogenzaka; JR Shibuya station), and Keio (2F 1-1-4 Nichi Shinjuku; JR Shinjuku station). 12 RAW DEALS Sushi doesn't come cheap in Tokyo; ¥6,000 ($49.50) to ¥10,000 ($82.50) a head isn't unusual. To indulge heartily for a tenth of the cost, eat at kaiten zushi bars where raw fish (different color plates indicating prices) whirls around on a conveyor belt; pick, pile the plates, and tally it up. Dishes range from ¥120 ($1) to ¥240 ($2), and the green tea's free; your bill should be around ¥1,000 ($8.50). Try Heirokusushi (Omotesando 5-8-5, Shibuya Ku, just below Coffee Chat Noir; JR Harajuku station), Himawari (Yasukuni Dori Jinbocho; Jinbocho station, exit A7), or Sushi Bar (JR Yurakucho station, opposite Colorado Cafe). Wander the streets around the Tsukiji fish market (5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku; Tsukiji station) for little sushi joints from ¥2,000 ($16.50), plus free samples of tofu and fish balls at stalls. Mitsukoshi Department Store (B3, 4-6-16 Ginza, Chuo-Ku; 3562-1111; Ginza station) offers generous portions at ¥1,100 ($9) a plate, as does Hachiku (3-11 Yotsuya; 3351-8989; JR Shinjuku station) for around ¥2,700 ($22.50) a head. 13 SLOUCH, SHOVEL, SLURP No matter where you go, from trendy Shibuya to the neon lights of Akihabara, you're never far from a noodle bar, where a bowl of miso ramen (noodles in soup with vegetables or meat), mo-ri soba (cold buckwheat noodles dipped in a soy-based broth), and shrimp tempura soba (noodles with deep-fried shrimp) will run ¥400 ($3.50) to ¥900 ($7.50). Places with plastic food models outside tend to be cheaper (and easy to order in; just point). Cheap, tasty noodle bars abound at JR Shinjuku station between the Toei and Marunouchi lines (ten-minute walk; follow the signs), JR Tokyo Station in the Yaesu shopping mall, and around the pedestrian bridge at JR Harajuku station. 14 MOSHIMOSHI Make international calls from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. and the cost drops by 20 percent; from 11 p.m. to 8 a.m. by 40 percent. International phone cards (IC) can be bought from any convenience store or vending machine in ¥1,000, ¥3,000 or ¥5,000 denominations (use them at phone booths labeled "International" or "ISDN"). 15 TOKYO SHOWS Head to the Hotel Okura on the 25th of each month for free classical concerts with musicians from the New Japan Philharmonic Orchestra, plus glasses of complimentary champagne (Main Building, 2-10-4 Toranomon; 3582-0111; Toranomon station). For a performance, activity, or concert any weekend afternoon, visit the central square of Yebisu Garden Place. The Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music gives regular free recitals (phone 3201-3331). On a very different note, for a bizarre eyeful go to Harajuku street near Meiji Park on Sunday, where teenage girls congregate en masse, dressed up in outrageous costumes from Goth to "injured patient" -- complete with eye patch and imitation blood; the best view's from the pedestrian bridge. 16 SURF THE INTANETTO Check your e-mail, portfolio, and Tokyo restaurant listing at the free cybercafes that are popping up everywhere, allowing unlimited use and selling refreshments. Five centrally located choices: Yahoo (5-11-2 Jingumae, Shibuya Ku; JR Shibuya station), Marunouchi Cafe (3-2-3 Fuji Building, Marunouchi Chome 3; JR Tokyo station), Cultural Center (Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-Ku; JR Yurakucho station), and Net Square (1-15-6 Chuo-Ku, Ginza; Ginza station). Caveat: After signing in, expect to wait anywhere from five minutes to an hour for access. 17 SECONDHAND TOKYO ROSE Recycling is a new concept in a city that considers "old" to mean six months. Keio Department Store (2F 1-1-4 Nichi Shinjuku; JR Shinjuku station) has a secondhand section called "With You" for cheap(ish) clothes, handbags, and shoes from ¥2,500 ($21), and Kigawa (2-28 Kanda-Jinbocho; Jinbocho station) sells discontinued and secondhand cameras, watches, videos, etc. Browse the used bookshops on Yasukuni Dori in Jinbocho. Get food bargains at Ameyoko Market (6-10-7 Ueno; JR Ueno station) around 6:30 p.m. before it closes; while there, peruse the clothes stalls for secondhand denim. 18 SHOESTRING DISPLAYS Open daily except Monday, the bemusing little museums of Sumida Ku are often no bigger than a bus shelter yet offer insight into Japanese culture (look for the colorful rainbow-style logo indicating "museum"). Offbeat freebies: the Tabi Museum of split-toe socks worn with kimonos (1-9-3 Midori; Ryogoku station), the Sumo Museum (1F, 1-3-28 Yokoami; Ryogoku station), the Rubber Baseball Museum (2-36-10 Sumida; Kanegafuchi station), the Meguro Parasitological Museum (4-1-12 Shimo, Meguro; Meguro station), and the Meguro Museum of Art (2-4-36 Meguro; Meguro station). Cheapies: the Beer Museum (Yebisu Garden Place; JR Ebiso station), with a history of Sapporo Brewery and limitless samples for ¥200 ($2), and the Tobacco and Salt Museum (1-16-8 Jinnan; JR Shibuya station) for ¥100 ($1). All of these and more can be found in a very helpful book called Tokyo for Free, by Susan Pompian (Kodansha International, $19.95). 19 DOING THE TOWN Cheap and fun: "Do a loop" of the Yamanote rail line. It takes a little over one hour to circle central Tokyo, costs ¥160 ($1.50), and passes major sites en route. Relax in pre-twentieth-century Tokyo on the Waseda Tram, a relic from the past, which also for ¥160 takes you past temples, cemeteries, and museums on the Toden Arakawa line; pick it up opposite JR Otsuka station. Finally, you can actually visit a Japanese home by booking the day before with the TIC (3201-3331); your sole expense will be a gift (make sure to wrap it first). 20 KONICHIWA, CONSUMERISM! At the ubiquitous Uni-qlo stores, think Gap, then think of good-quality T-shirts, shirts, jeans, and skirts for half the price - all below the ¥3,000 ($25) mark (two central locations: 1-30-1 Kabuki-Cho; JR Shinjuku station and 16-17 Udagawa-cho; JR Shibuya station). Akihabara (a.k.a. "Electric Town") near JR Akihabara station is the place to haggle for all things plugged in; head especially to the heavily advertised Duty Free shops (take your passport). Flea markets are held on Sundays at many temples and shrines, where you can pick up unusual Japanese souvenirs-coins, swords, teapots. Two good ones: Hanazono Shrine (weekly, at 5-17-3 Shinjuku; Shinjuku-sanchome station) and Togo Shrine, three Sundays monthly (at 1-5-3 Jingumae; Meiji-Jingumae Station). For year-round sales, check out the sixth and seventh floors of Isetan department store (3-14-1 Shinjuku; JR Shinjuku station) and the eighth floor of Mitsukoshi (4-6-16 Ginza; Ginza station).

For many years, the American hotel industry watched the emergence of discount companies in air transportation and cruises, and sternly resisted the trend. Then, a little over a decade and a half ago, the industry succumbed. Faced with a growing glut of rooms resulting from the over-building of hotels in the 1980's, they slowly began assigning a portion of their space to independent companies for resale to the public--quietly, without advertising, covertly--at discounts ranging up to 50 percent. The largest of consolidators Travelweb (travelweb.com) Travelweb is run by the biggest of the big hotel chains: Hilton, Marriott, Hyatt, Intercontinental Hotel Group (owner of Holiday Inn and Crowne Plaza), Starwood (owner of Sheraton, Westin, and W hotels), and priceline.com--whew! Anti-trust issues aside, Travelweb is going to be the cheapest source if you're looking to stay at any of the above hotels-a-lways undercutting, or at the very least matching every other competitor (so take advantage of this one-stop shop now before the feds roll in!). Its hotel display matrix is the patented i-Deal, allowing visitors to easily scroll through thousands of discounted rooms worldwide. Hotel Discounts (800/715-7666, Hoteldiscount.com) A big selection of U.S. cities distinguishes this large company, as does its claim to obtain first-class accommodations for under $100 a night per room. Average savings, it claims, can run to 65percent, or 40 percent off corporate rates. With 9,000 properties and 400 destinations in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and Asia, Hotel Discounts offers up to 70 percent off. Internationally, HD books hotels in all the major capitals of Europe and Toronto and Rome. 1-800-USA-HOTEL (800/872-4683, 1800usahotels.com) Offers around-the-clock reservations service as well as discounts of up to 40 percent and 50 percent, working with more than 11,000 domestic hotels, including most major chains. Despite its name, it now books hotels internationally as well in 200 countries worldwide. The company charges no cancellation fees (although the individual hotels sometimes do, so be sure to ask), and offers a miles for nights program good with four major carriers. Quikbook (800/789-9887, quikbook.com) Another massive hotel booker, in business since 1988. It claims that if a customer can find a lower rate than Quikbook can provide for a certain hotel on a certain date, it will refund the difference. This service can often slash 25 percent to 50 percentoff a property's quoted rates in over 60 cities nationwide. Its Web site was named Forbes Best of the Web three years running. Expedia (expedia.com) One of the biggies when it comes to online bookings, it has a large and varied selection of lodgings not only in the US, but throughout the world. Because of its size, it often beats the rates offered by smaller competitors and usually can arrange discounted rates of 40 percent or more. HotelsOnline.com (800/511-5318, hotelsonline.com) This eight-year-old has enormous reach, offering 58,000 hotels (including most major chains) virtually everywhere in the United States, plus a good number in Europe, the Caribbean, Latin America, even Africa. Priceline (priceline.com) While it won't allow customers to see the name of the hotel before the booking is made, it does allow for the choice of neighborhood and star level. Travelers who can handle this degree of uncertainty are often rewarded with discounts of 40 percent and often more, off not only "rack" (or published) rates, but discounted rates as well. Orbitz (orbitz.com) Originally developed by the five major airlines, Orbitz is now most famous for its interactive pop-ups that are more video games than ads (volleyball, baseball, or belly-flopping anyone?). Its 500,000 lodging options and the new Hotel Matrix Display highlight savings of up to 70 percent. All-Hotels (all-hotels.com) Based in Edinburgh with some 90,000 properties (20,000 of which are European hotels not listed anywhere else online), All-Hotels caters to travelers looking for cheap rooms as well as discounted five-star accommodations, even at the last minute. Cheapaccommodation.com (Cheapaccommodation.com) The feisty little sister of UK-based cheapflights.com is as powerful a source for international hotel specials as its sibling is for airfare, offering bedding deals in 170 countries. U.S. specialists Express Reservations (800/407-3351, express-res.com) Books only good-quality New York, Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Washington D.C. hotels at discounts that often approach 30%percentand 40%percent depending on time of year. The hotel is paid directly--to prepaid vouchers. Hotel ConXions (800/522-9991, hotelconxions.com) Discounts the rates of hotels in major U.S. cities--New York, Boston, Washington DC, Chicago, Miami and Orlando. Claims its cuts an average 30 percent (with some markdowns of up to 60 percent, and also states it has space in generally sold-out periods. However, discounts are not available during certain peak periods. Hot Rooms (800/468-3500, hotrooms.com) Chicag-only service, a pioneer in hotel discounting that books rooms annually at savings of up to 40 percent to 50 percent off published prices. You pay the hotel directly. Washington DC Accommodations (800/554-2220, wdcahotels.com) This DC specialist promises that its staff will "sleep around" to ensure the satisfaction of its clients, staying in each of the hotels covered. Along with this expertise, the company claims to book hotels at a rate 30 percent to 50 percentless than the rack rate. Hotres.com (hotres.com) handling New York City--with 90 Manhattan hotels in all price ranges--as well as Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, New Orleans, Orlando, San Diego, San Francisco and Washington D.C. Claims to save between $20 and $60 nightly on rooms. For Europe, South America, and Asia Octopus (866/4-OCTOPUS, octopustravel.com) Specializes in hotels in Europe and Asia, with 20,000 self-catering apartments in 3,300 cities. Promises to refund the difference if a customer books and then finds a lower rate somewhere else online. Laterooms (laterooms.com) Specializes in "last minute" bookings, usually two weeks or less before arrival. Its best rates tend to be in the UK and France. Laterooms not only offers hotel deals in the UK, Ireland and Europe, but also offers access to latelet.com, which allows users to search worldwide holiday rentals. Travel Interlink (800/888-5898) Representatives of hotels primarily in Asia, South America and Europe, and offers discounts off their published rates that can run as high as 30 percent to 50 percent.

It's a minor mystery-some locals might even call it a conspiracy: Why isn't Berkeley better known as a destination for travelers? Perched on the edge of San Francisco Bay, this midsize city ab ounds with delights: fascinating and free lectures, savory, affordable food at ethnic restaurants, historic architecture, heart-stopping vistas, tranquil parks, and a vibrant cafe scene. Add to that world-class museums, concerts, theater, dance productions, and perhaps the top public university in the country, and it's a wonder travelers don't spend more time in energetic and progressive Berkeley. Perhaps Berkeley's fiercely independent politics have kept away some potential visitors. Known in some circles as the "People's Republic of Berkeley," the city was a hotbed of social activism in the 1960s. The Free Speech Movement was born here in 1964, when campus officials tried to crack down on antiwar protests. The movement spread to campuses across the country, fueling a national outpouring of sentiment against the Vietnam War. While protest still simmers, the fires of the 1960s have given way to embers of intellectual ferment. Today, Berkeley is better known for its Nobel laur eates and alternative shopping (used and collectible books, vast music stores, imported crafts from around the world) than for its demonstrations. Approaching campus, stroll along the university's key location, Telegraph Avenue, to get a sense of what makes Berkeley special. Outdoors, the avenue has the feel of an exotic market-the smell of incense merges with the aroma of coffee and curries. Fat Slice and Blondie's sell hefty slabs of pizza by the slice. Street vendors hawk hemp necklaces, Che Guevara T-shirts, and bumper stickers declaring: "If you're not outraged you're not paying attention." Between Dwight Way and Haste Street, you'll find three literary bookstores: Moe's, Cody's, and Shakespeare & Co. On the same block is Caffe Mediterraneum, where beat poet Allen Ginsburg allegedly wrote part of his epic poem Howl. Continue north on Telegraph to two expansive music stores, Amoeba and Rasputin's, where you'll find thousands of used and new CDs and some good, old vinyl LP s. A campus free for all Situated on 1,232 acres in the heart of Berkeley, the University of California at Berkeley was founded in 1868 as a public campus, a radical idea in the less-than-egalitarian nineteenth century. A good first stop is the Public Affairs office at 101 Sproul Hall, where you can pick up a map listing top campus attractions. Also grab a copy of the Daily Californian, a student newspaper that lists events and lectures. For more information, stop by Visitor Services (2200 University Ave., 510/642-5215), just west of campus, where helpful staffers can assist or give you a brochure for a self-guided walking tour. Campus highlights include the 9,000,000-volume Doe Library, and because Berkeley is a public institution, all 9,000,000 are available for your perusal (but you can't take anything out of the library without a card). Near the reference desk is an Internet-connected computer you can use for free for ten minutes. Near the top of the steeply ascending Centennial Drive is the Lawrence Hall of Science, a hands-on museum that's an essential stop for families, with interactive exhibits for kids of any age. Feed your head Every night of the year brings a new attraction to Berkeley: Recent lecturers have included author Simon Winchester (The Professor and the Madman) and politicos of every outlook. To find out about events before visiting, see berkeley.edu/calendar-and note that the main page lists highlights only; for a comprehensive list of events, use the calendar on the left side of the page and click on a date to see everything taking place that day. Another good site is berkeley.edu/visitors, which has updated information about free campus tours (offered Monday to Saturday at 10 a.m. and Sunday at 1 p.m.). The Pacific Film Archive (2575 Bancroft Way, 510/642-1412, bampfa.berkeley.edu; $8) screens art films by legends like Akira Kurosawa and recently hosted a program entitled, "The Sixties, Spirituality, and P sychedelia," featuring the "visual music" of the period. Adjacent to the Pacific Film Archive is the Berkeley Art Museum (2626 Bancroft Way, 510/642-0808; $8), open Wednesday through Sunday, which houses exhibits ranging from early Buddhist ink paintings to modern photography. Zellerbach Hall (510/642-9988, calperfs.berkeley.edu), on the south side of campus, welcomes internationally famous musicians such as Senegalese guitarist Youssou N'Dour and dance productions from Merce Cunningham, Alvin Ailey, and more (tickets start at $18). The off-campus Berkeley Repertory Theater (2575 Bancroft Way, 510/647-2949, berkeleyrep.org) is known for such provocative works as its recent staging of Salman Rushdie's fable Haroun and the Sea of Stories. Cheap eats Berkeley's diversity of ethnic cuisines enhances any visit. Naan 'n' Curry, on Telegraph near Durant, features platters of tender tandoori chicken and veggie curries starting at $4. A plate-size loaf of naan (Indian bread) costs only $1. Cafe Intermezzo (2442 Telegraph Ave.) usually has a line out the door waiting for its heaping $5 salads piled high with avocado, eggs, garbanzo beans, and tomatoes. Le Petit Cheval (2600 Bancroft Way) serves bowls of steaming Vietnamese noodle soup with meat or veggies for $4 to $5. If you're in Berkeley on a Sunday, visit an Asian temple called Wat Mongkolratanaram (1911 Russell St., 510/849-3419), which serves the most authentic Thai food this side of the Pacific, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. It's a grand place for lunch after shopping at the sprawling weekend flea market near the Ashby BART station. A room of one's own Where to stay at an affordable price? Best value near the Berkeley campus (about six blocks away) is the Capri Motel (1512 University Ave., 510/845-7090), with comfortable and clean rooms starting at $65. Or you might try the Berkeley Travelodge (1820 University Ave., 510/843-4262), just four blocks from campus and nicely furnished. Singles cost $79, doubles $89-but rates may be slightly higher on crowded weekends, especially at graduation time. Two alternatives in the budget category: The YMCA (2001 Allston Way, 510/848-6800) has singles starting at $39, doubles $50; bathrooms are shared. And the Ramada Inn (920 University Ave., 510/849-1121) has rooms for $79. The latter is far from luxurious and a hike or bus ride to campus, but the rooms are serviceable. Moving up in price, to $99 single, $109 double including Continental breakfast, you may want to splurge at the quaint and centrally located Beau Sky Hotel (2520 Durant Ave., 510/540-7688). On the hotel's ground floor is a Thai restaurant with rice plates starting at $4. Another well-decorated and conveniently located upscale option is the Bancroft Hotel (2680 Bancroft Way, 510/549-1000), with rooms starting at $129. But bear in mind that all 22 rooms at the Bancroft have one queen-size bed apiece. Berkeley basics The easiest air access is via Oakland Internatio nal Airport, 14 miles from Berkeley. Board an AirBART shuttle (runs every 15 minutes; $2 adults, 50> for kids and seniors) to the Oakland Coliseum BART station. From there it's a 15-minute train ride to Berkeley for $1.65. Plenty of taxis and rental cars are also available at Oakland's airport. Parking in Berkeley is a challenge; consider this before renting a car. AC Transit buses can haul you to the Lawrence Hall of Science and other attractions around Berkeley. For more advice on attractions, dining, shopping, events, and transit, see visitberkeley.com or call 800/847-4823.