Love him or hate him, Bill Clinton blended the old and new South better than anyone else we're likely to see. He's an Arkansas-bred boy who was real enough to pass as a Bubba and slick enough to rule in Washington, D.C. Now he's bringing the world to his former stomping ground of Little Rock in the form of the $165 million glass-and-steel William J. Clinton Presidential Center.
At 20,000 square feet, the Clinton Center will hold the largest collection of presidential materials. (It contains 2 million photos alone.) The boxy, modernist main building is cantilevered over the Arkansas River from the southern riverbank, and the adjacent Rock Island Railroad Bridge, abandoned in 1980, has been pressed into service as a walkway. Within the center's 30-acre park is the new Clinton School of Public Service, a graduate school that's part of the University of Arkansas and housed in the recently rehabbed 1899 Choctaw Railroad station. Just down the road--President Clinton Avenue, to be precise--is where Heifer, which for 60 years has given farm animals to needy families worldwide, is building its eco-friendly Heifer International Global Village partly out of steel beams and concrete from existing railroad structures. The $13.9 million headquarters opens in fall 2005; the charity plans to turn it into a tourist attraction educating visitors about world hunger.
Little Rock still prides itself on that tried-and-true Southern tradition, eating. Just over a decade ago the toughest choice on a Friday night was between Chili's or Bennigan's; the city now serves everything from New American to, as Loca Luna owner and chef Mark Abernathy describes the food at his place, Nouveau Schizophrenic. Loca Luna's grilled salmon with cranberry-orange-chipotle sauce is a standout dish. The city's deep-fried roots remain, though, especially when it comes to slow-smoked pit barbecue. Everyone in town has a favorite joint, but one of the undeniable top spots is Sim's Bar-B-Que, where fans run the gamut from suit-and-tie politicos to jeans-wearing construction workers.
Since the mid-'90s, the River Market District, a stretch of restaurants and clubs, has grown to become the epicenter of Little Rock nightlife. Crowds lift a few pints at The Underground Pub (a spacious English-style ale house) and carouse at Sticky Fingerz Rock 'n' Roll Chicken Shack. The Heights, a venerable neighborhood four miles west, has one of the city's most convivial old-style local bars, called Afterthought. Mondays are devoted to jazz, and the rest of the week there's dancing to standards and blues.
In a sure sign of newfound confidence, Little Rock now has a hip lodging in the River Market Lofts, a factory converted to upmarket apartments, eight of which are available by the night. The decor is Ikea-esque, and each loft has a full kitchen; they're within walking distance of the Clinton Center. The historic Quapaw Quarter--south of the River Market--contains the city's oldest homes, some dating to before the Civil War. A converted late-1800s mansion, the genteel Rosemont Bed & Breakfast has five guest rooms with plush armchairs, gauzy curtains, and, in most, fireplaces and four-poster beds. Out front there's a shaded porch, perfect for relaxing in a rocking chair while the fall leaves stir in the breeze. It's an experience that the new Little Rock has yet to top.
Amsterdam's Eastern Docklands
Not too long ago, Amsterdam's Eastern Docklands was the turf of squatters, prostitutes, and drug dealers. Today, the loosely defined region also known as the New East, the New Amsterdam, or Eastern Islands has become more of a destination for modern-design junkies. The area's man-made islands and peninsulas--named Java-eiland, KNSM-eiland, Sporenburg, Borneo-eiland, Veemarktterrein, Abattoirterrein, and the Oostelijke Handelskade--were constructed in the late 19th century and thrived up until the 1970s, when shipping was diverted to the west of the city. But in the late '80s, Amsterdam hatched an ambitious plan for the region, primarily in response to its chronic housing shortage. Consider it a success: In the past decade the Docklands has blossomed into what's now a colorful, densely built mishmash of gentrified warehouses, modern canal houses, and quirky, eye-catching bridges. Each of the smaller islands and peninsulas has a unique character. For example, the Oostelijke Handelskade is filled with spruced-up warehouses. The narrow Java-eiland feels like a mini-Venice, with four waterways that transect it. And the KNSM-eiland features classic buildings with a twist: One highlight includes a massive, rounded wrought-iron gate designed by Antwerp artist Narcisse Tordoir that's considered a triumph of public art. The gate scales the entire height of an eight-story building that resembles an Italian opera house in the island's Barcelona Square. The best way to get a sense of the place is to take a tour. Rederij Lovers has two-and-a-half-hour architecture tours, via boat, which are currently only offered in English for groups over 20 and depart every Sunday afternoon. Alternately, Arttra and Bakker & Bakker both lead English-language walking tours for smaller groups. However, it's far cheaper--and more fun--to go off on your own: ARCAM, the Amsterdam Center for Architecture, sells a helpful map with noteworthy sites on it. Architecture is definitely the main draw. Check out the Scheepstimmermanstraat (Shipwright Street) on Borneo-eiland. Nine years ago, 60 narrow plots of land were parceled out to buyers, each of whom was encouraged to use a different, innovative architect. Though each home is on the water, measures exactly the same width, and incorporates tall windows, the designs are remarkably varied. From afar they come off like a standing row of deconstructed dominoes. On the nearby Eastern Dock, be sure to visit the copper-clad NEMO National Center for Science and Technology, a museum that is a large-scale approximation of a ship's bow, and Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, Amsterdam's newest concert hall. Opening this summer, the hall will feature a mix of opera, classical, contemporary, jazz, and electronic music. As one would expect in a neighborhood with a lot of cutting-edge architecture, there are a number of design-centric boutiques. Many of them are in one small stretch of the KNSM-eiland, so it's possible to spend an hour or two window shopping. Pol's Potten sells bright and functional home and garden accessories; Dominio has a whimsical collection of Italian clothes, furniture, and housewares. The five-month-old Lloyd Hotel allows travelers to make the Docklands more than a day trip. Built in 1921 to house Eastern Europeans as they awaited ships to emigrate to South America, the Lloyd was converted into a juvenile prison in 1964. Now the 116 uniquely designed rooms--some of which used to be former cells--showcase Dutch furniture and cost between $100 to $380 (though only 14 are at the lowest price). And the Lloyd's bright, modern Snel Restaurant has long hours, from 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. The area's most famous new restaurant is Fifteen, an outpost of celebrity chef Jamie Oliver's London flagship. Open since December, the restaurant (which is located in a huge warehouse on the waterfront) isn't cheap, but the adjoining trattoria has a similar style and decently priced pasta and risotto à la carte. Given the Docklands' seafaring roots, a more fitting place to eat is in one of the several restaurants housed in boats. Once a Ukrainian vessel used for shipping, Odessa is now a French/international restaurant. Sip an Odessa Special cocktail ($8; vodka, crème fraîche, champagne) in the low-ceilinged below-deck lounge, or, if weather permits, dine outside. Also in a ship--a barge, to be precise--Einde van de Wereld (End of the World) serves humble food cooked by former squatters, on Wednesdays and Fridays from 6 p.m. For a picnic in one of the Docklands' many parks, stop by Roos en Noor, a deli in De Walvis, an office building that resembles a beached whale. Dishes like goat cheese quiche, Vietnamese salad with peanuts, and Thai curry are priced by weight. A day of high-design hopping is best finished by revisiting the Docklands' wild roots. For that, head to Azart, an eccentric, Felliniesque cabaret boat--also known as the Ship of Fools. A man named August Dirks is the unlikely captain of a motley crew of performers. The boat, only open on Fridays from 11 p.m., has burlesque theater and cheap drinks. If only the boat would take you back to your hotel.... Getting to the Eastern Docklands Amsterdam's main train depot, Centraal Station, is practically on the doorstep of the Eastern Docklands, so it's feasible to walk to where the neighborhood starts--though the wind can be relentless. Beginning in June, a tram (#26) will start running from Centraal Station to the area. Another option is to arrive by water; two ferries run a route every 20 minutes from Steiger 8 (Pier 8) behind the station and drop you off at Java-eiland. It's a 10-minute trip and costs $1.30. Alternately, bus 42 heads from the station to the Oostelijke Handelskade, then Java-eiland and KNSM-eiland; night bus 359 takes over running the route from midnight to dawn. You'll need to buy a strippenkaart, a card priced according to how far you travel. For more information, consult the transit authority (gvb.nl, 011-31/20-460-0606). Operators Rederij Lovers 011-31/20-530-1090, $25 including coffee, tea, and cake Arttra 011-31/20-625-9303, $144 per hour per group Bakker & Bakker 011-31/20-683-6359, $102 per hour per group Lodgings Lloyd Hotel Oostelijke Handelskade 34, 011-31/20-561- 3636, lloydhotel.nl Food Odessa Veemkade 259, 011-31/20-419-3010, three courses $35 Einde van de Wereld next to Javakade 2, 011-31/20-419-0222, cash only, dishes from $7 Roos en Noor Baron G. A. Tindalstraat 148, 011-31/20-419- 1440, dishes $2-$3 per 3.5 oz. Fifteen Jollemanhof 9, 011-31/20-509-5011, à la carte plates average about $26 Azart Azartplein 117, no phone, azart.org, beer $1.90, no cover Attractions NEMO National Center for Science and Technology 011-31/20-531-3233, e-nemo.nl Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ Piet Heinkade 1, 011-31/20-788-2010 muziekgebouw.nl Po's Potten KNSM-laan 39, 011-31/20-419-3541 Dominio KNSM-laan 301, 011-31/20-419-0546 ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600, 011-31/20-620-4878, Tues.-Sat., 1 p.m.-5 p.m., maps $9.60