The Lowdown on Car Rentals

June 4, 2005
Advance bookings, local agencies, shopping the web-money-saving secrets you need to know before you rent

Large, worldwide chains maintain auto-rental outlets in virtually every city of size throughout the world, and also use both nationwide and worldwide computer networks--reached by dialing an 800 number to service your reservations for a car. If you can make your booking at least seven or 14 days in advance, you'll nearly always receive reduced rates that make the prices of these national car rental chains competitive with those of small, local firms.

But woe to the casual tourist who simply appears at an airport Avis, Hertz, Budget or National desk without a reservation booked several days in advance; the rates for such an on-the-spot rental are almost always considerably higher, not simply overseas but in the U.S. as well. Under those circumstances, you'll do better by seeking out the smaller local firms with unfamiliar names and no airport locations below; they thrive on the last-minute booking.

When it comes to shopping for car rental companies, the smart, Web-savvy traveler utilizes one or several of the Internet sites that automatically do the shopping for them. Sites such as Expedia, Orbitz, or Qixo, which may be better known for searching for cheap airfares, also have the ability to shop and find the best price for car rentals. Many of the extras, such as insurance and tax, are often not included in the prices quoted by these sites, and such charges vary from company to company, so some additional research is required before finding the best deal.

Auto rental companies often advertise sales, coupons, or free upgrades on their Web sites or in the Sunday travel section of newspapers. By all means take advantage of them when they arise, but be aware of the fine print. These offers are almost always limited by location, limited in terms of availability, with sale rates subject to change. And if you think these prices include CDW, taxes, location fees or any of those other extras that can make renting cars such an exercise in frustration, we've got a lovely bridge to sell you. You will pay more than the base rates listed, so be sure to get all of the numbers before you decide where to rent. Sometimes you'll get better prices from the companies that aren't currently offering sales. It's all a crapshoot with rental cars.

International renters have a host of other issues to figure before finding the best price. Overseas, the cost of gasoline is so high (it often exceeds the equivalent of $3 or $3.50 for a gallon) that you are also well advised to book the smallest car consistent with your needs, and thus minimize your use of gas. But remember that such cars usually come with small luggage compartments; if you will need a roof rack for extra baggage, be sure to order one when making your reservation--they cannot usually be obtained on the spot.

Also bear in mind that in some overseas locations, you can't secure unlimited mileage with on-the-spot booking. For those countries, book ahead with an international renter (or e-mail back and have a friend do it for you) to avoid racking up expensive per-mile (or per-kilometer) fees.

1. Some tips for cutting rental costs:

Avoid airline terminals: Car rental agencies at airport locations often charge "airport location fees" and security taxes that can add significantly to the cost of your rental. The same car that would cost $49 a day at the airport might run for $35 at a downtown or other location. Many off-airport rental agencies within striking distance of the terminal offer free shuttles.

Stay the week: Sometimes weekly rates can be cheaper than three-day rentals, especially at the major rental agencies.

Go clubbing: Frequent renter clubs, with names like "Gold Service" or "Emerald Club," are free to join and usually garner discounts of at least five percent on each rental. Programs such as Avis Wizard can save you as much as 15 percent. Some of these clubs allow you to earn points toward future free rentals, and often they get you better service.

Fill'er up: Make sure you never return a rental car with less gas in the tank than when you got it. Fuel surcharges can double and triple the price per gallon you'd pay at a regular gas station.

Don't trouble with double insurance: Don't duplicate insurance you already have. The car rental agencies will try to sell you insurance at an additional charge, ranging from liability (sometimes called "liability insurance supplement") to accident (aka "personal accident insurance) to policies covering personal belongings. You undoubtedly already have health insurance, and probably homeowners' and auto insurance, so you can often decline them all. The exception to this rule is when renting a car in Ireland or Italy, where the purchase of insurance is mandatory.

"Just say no" to Collision Damage Waivers: Also known as Loss Damage Waivers, they'll add more than $9 a day to your rental cost, unless you sign the CDW agreement making you responsible for damage. Many, but not all, states have outlawed this liability by requiring car rental companies to pay for collision insurance. But even if your state allows it, you can avoid the hefty fees by using a credit card or bank card that covers collision.

Looking on the web

Breezenet bnm.com offers discounts (up to 20 percent) and savings at the major car companies, regional renters and selected "exotic" car rental agencies. Can search companies by airport location nationally and internationally. Has a section on "Last-Minute Specials" and also lists the deals available from several companies.

SideStep (sidestep.com) searches the major car companies, the online bookers, and several smaller agencies for the best rate. It runs along-side other search engines for easy rate comparison.

Low-cost auto rentals

Outside the mainstream car rental agencies such as Hertz, Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Alamo, and National, there are smaller, lesser-known companies that offer discounted automobile rentals. The upsides to renting with such a discounter is obvious: It'll cost less money. The downsides vary. Some use older or second-hand cars. Other agencies are very small, perhaps with a single location, and services will be far less extensive than the major players (which is important should anything go wrong). But if you're willing to take the slight risk with an older car or a smaller rental company, chances are you'll pay less than at a mainstream agency (but still look at the bigger companies too, to compare).

Here are some sources for low-cost auto rentals:

Rent-A-Wreck (800/944-7501, rentawreck.com) is the overly apologetic moniker for the company that used to discount just older cars through much of the U.S., but that now deals in luxury sedans as well as SUVs. Rest assured its automobiles are not "wrecks" by any means (not usually anyway), and its rates often come in well under Hertz, Avis, Alamo and the like. Be aware that some states have dozens of R-A-W branch locations, while others have one or none.

Car Rental Express (888/557-8188, carrentalexpress.com) is a web site that exclusively searches rates and availability for over 300 independent, locally owned car rental agencies in the United States, Canada, Europe and the Caribbean. Prices quoted on the site include all taxes and fees, and there are online coupons available for additional discounts. Daily rates are 25-30 percent less than the majors, and weekly rates are 15 percent cheaper. All agencies undergo a background check and Car Rental Express promises that 99 percent use new vehicles.

AutoEurope (888/223-5555, autoeurope.com) suffers none of the downsides listed above (it is a big operation and its cars are not old), yet it often undercuts the rates of worldwide operations like Hertz and Avis. It is a top option for short-term rentals all over Europe.

Renault Eurodrive (800/221-1052, renaultusa.com) is often a less expensive option for longer-term vacationers abroad, meaning people who are staying at least 17 days in Europe and who plan to take out a short-term lease. Compare with AutoEurope's rates.

Dan Dooley (800/331-9301, dan-dooley.ie) is a discount rental operation for Ireland only, although it has offices outside the Emerald Isle. It offers a wide array of cars models and sizes, and all of its quote rates are in Euros.

2. Always rent the smallest car

The smallest cars have the cheapest rates, and if the location doesn't have a subcompact when you arrive, they'll give you a free upgrade to the next smallest vehicle they have on the lot. The people who deliver cars to satellite locations (called shuttlers) don't like squeezing into subcompacts any more than you do, so they don't stock the lot with small cars unless they have to. In locations with very few cars, you will often--as a result--be given a full-size car for the price of a subcompact. And if they do have a subcompact, and you want a bigger car, you can always ask for an upgrade on the spot, but there's no reason not to try for the lower rate. This strategy surely won't work at a giant airport like Miami's, where there are hundreds of cars (and therefore dozens of subcompacts) on hand. But it will work in downtown locations and smaller airports with room for only a few cars.

The following illustrated examples speak for themselves, and give a glimpse of the savings at a given moment in time.

3. Compare rates between downtown and airport locations

Say you're arriving in St. Louis and need a car for four days. If you rent one (a subcompact, naturally) from Budget's airport location, you'll pay $51.99 a day, or a total of $207.96. But if you rent the same car from Budget's downtown location, just a few blocks from the convention center, you'll pay $39.99 a day, or a total of $159.96. And here's the best part: You get the lower rate--a savings of $48--even if you return the car to the airport. But, you may ask, doesn't it cost something to get from the airport to downtown? Yes--all of $3.50. That's the price of a Metrolink ride from the airport to downtown.

4. In New York, the savings can be even greater if you're willing to take a train ride to the suburbs

Say you want to rent a car for this Fourth of July. At any of Hertz's Manhattan locations, a subcompact will cost $71.99 per day. But if you take a train to Hertz's location in North White Plains, the same car rents for $42.99. The rental lot is right next to the train station, and the ride takes no more than 50 minutes from Grand Central Station ($7 one-way). The savings are even greater if you keep the car for a week: $311.99 at North White Plains, compared to $409.99 in Manhattan. What's more, you still get the lower rate even if you return the car in Manhattan.

5. Check differences between weekend and weekday rates

Sometimes you can save money by keeping the car longer. At airports and other locations catering to business travelers, weekend rates are so much cheaper that it might make sense to pick up a car on a Saturday or Sunday. (At some locations, there may even be more than one rate on the same day!) For example, at the Dallas-Fort Worth Airport, National charges $55.99 a day for a rental starting on a Monday. If you keep the car for three days and return it Wednesday night, you pay $167.97. But if you pick up that same car on Saturday night and keep it for four days, you pay for two days at the weekend rate of $21.99/day and two days at the rate of $48.99/day, for a total of $141.96. Voila! A savings of $26.01! If you pick up the car Friday night, you pay only $163.95, still $4 less than what you'd pay to pick it up on Monday morning, and you get the use of a car all weekend.

In Manhattan, where car-less urbanites flee the city on weekends, the equation is just the opposite. Weekday rates are lower than weekend rates, but again, you can save money by keeping the car longer. For example, if you pick up an economy car at any of Budget's Manhattan locations on a Friday and return it Sunday you'd pay around $75.99 a day, or a total of $227.97. But if you pick up the car the night before (Thursday) and return it at the same time, you pay only $65.99 per day, or a total of $197.97. That's a savings of $30, which will more than offset the cost of storing the car overnight in an expensive Manhattan garage if you can't find a parking spot. Why do the car rental companies do this? For the same reason restaurants have early-bird specials. They want you out before the big rush. If you take a car off their hands on Thursday night, that opens up room for one more car they can rent on Friday.

6. If you're keeping the car for four or more days, check if there's a weekly rate that might be cheaper Weekly rates for most car rentals usually kick in on the fifth day.

Most rental companies' weekly rates allow you to keep the car for five, six, or seven days with no difference in price. In many cases, the weekly rate might be cheaper than the four-day rate, and in a few cases, even cheaper than a three-day rental. Here's an example of the latter: If you pick up a subcompact car from Alamo at the Charlotte, North Carolina, airport and keep it for three days, you'll pay $60.99 a day, or a total of $182.97. Keep it for four days and you'll pay $243.06. But keep it for five days (or pick it up a day earlier) and the weekly rate of $146.99 kicks in, a savings of nearly $100.

7. Join all the frequent renter clubs you can find-the ones operated by the major car rental companies themselves (call them and request procedures for joining)

These clubs, with names like "Gold Service" or "Emerald Club," are free to join, and usually get you a minimum of a 5 percent discount. But sometimes, preferred-renter discounts are greater and even better than what you get with AAA or AARP discounts. On a three-day rental when everybody is trying to get out of Manhattan, an Avis Wizard number saves 15 percent. And like frequent flyer programs, some frequent renter clubs allow you to earn points toward future free rentals. In addition to the financial incentive, frequent renter status gets you better service, beginning the minute you make your reservation.

8. Always return the car with a (mostly) full tank

You don't have to fill up right outside the airport. As long as the needle says "F," nobody can say the tank isn't full. Returning your rental car (almost) full is still the most economical option. If the gauge is not on "F" when you return the car, you'll pay a fortune in refueling charges. If you pay in advance for a full tank, you'll come out ahead only if you bring the car back empty (not something you want to chance).

9. Check your automobile and health insurance policies to avoid hefty daily insurance charges

The rental companies will try to sell you additional types of insurance, ranging from liability (sometimes called liability insurance supplement) to accident (a.k.a. personal accident insurance) to policies covering personal belongings. If you already have an auto insurance policy, decline them all. Each charge is several dollars a day, and they add up fast. If you have automobile insurance, you're probably covered for rental cars; if you have health insurance, you're covered for personal injuries regardless of how you end up in the hospital. And if you have homeowner's insurance, you may be covered if somebody steals your swimsuit from your trunk. Even if you don't have homeowner's insurance, personal effects coverage is a waste of money unless you're transporting the crown jewels in your Ford Escort.

10. Check your credit card coverage to avoid CDW charges

Then there's that painful charge for a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) or Loss Damage Waiver, both of them lures the rental companies use to get you to pay the collision portion of the insurance on their vehicles. Unless you sign the CDW agreement, sometimes adding more than $10 a day to the price of your rental, you're responsible for damage to the car in an accident. Many states (but not all) have outlawed this liability by requiring the car companies to pay for collision insurance, so you don't have to worry. But even if you rent in a state that allows CDW charges, you can decline the hefty fee by paying for your rental with a credit card that covers you in case of collision. American Express provides this service to holders of its Gold, Platinum, and Blue Cards, as well as standard green cards, but not every Visa or MasterCard does. MBNA America is one bank that does; check with your credit card's issuing bank to see if yours does too.

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Home, Sweet Motorhome

Ever since RV industry started to flourish in the years after World War II (when cooking facilities consisted of engine-top grills), more than just an ingenious few have been enamored with the idea of combining their car with their accommodations. And these days, many RVs are veritable luxury digs on wheels, even offering kitchens with more bells and whistles than those found in studio apartments--dishwashers, Sub-Zero refrigerators, and handy washer and dryers. If you-ve met anyone into "RVing" then you know the enthusiasm for "cruising" can be infectious. According to the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association, some seven million US households now own RVs, and there's an estimated 30 million RV enthusiasts just looking for an excuse for a roadtrip. For families, the savings can be big The RV lifestyle, which for many brings silver-haired retirees and Adventures with Charlie to mind, is not for everyone. (Actually, more Baby Boomers, people ages 35-54, drive RVs now than any other demographic.) But, RVs can offer a refreshing alternative to traditional modes of travel. And while it may come as a surprise to some considering their low miles-per-gallon ratios, RVs can actually help you save money on vacation--maybe not on gas but on meals (you can cook your own) and accommodations. When you consider the average family of four in the US will spend approximately $250 per day on food and lodging (according to a report by AAA) cost-conscious travel by RV suddenly seems like the more affordable way to go. Let's look at the numbers. While you will pay to park at a campsite, in the end the cost is far less (between $15-$100, depending on the site) than what you'd spend on hotel rooms. (Of course, you always have the option of pulling into one of the many Walmart parking lots around the country. Walmart allows RVers to park for free, except in cases when overnight stays violate local zoning laws). Using the lowest possible rates--camp site ($15), RV rental ($90/day), and food ($30)-we calculated that it could cost as little as $135/day for a brood of four to travel by RV, excluding the cost of gas. That's a savings of $115 per day. Carry that out for an entire week and you save a whopping $805! Problems at the pump One place where your bank account will feel the pinch is at the pump. RVs, which have become much more fuel efficient in recent years, have long been considered the undisputed kings of gas guzzling. However for the budget traveler, as well as the political and environmentally minded, exactly how many miles your RV gets to the gallon remains a concern. With today's record-high gas costs and roadtrippers expecting to pay as much as $3/gallon this summer, the cost of gas cannot be ignored when planning your RV vacation. The average generously proportioned RV motorhome today gets about 10-12 miles to the gallon, which is fine for short area toots, but not so nice if you're planning a cross-country road trip. If you do plan to slog it across our great nation in a motorhome, then we advise logging on to GasPriceWatch.com, a helpful consumer advocacy site that tracks the price of gas state by state, station by station. With a simple check you can be sure you're filling up at the gas station with the lowest prices. Check ahead with your campground--a growing number are offering Internet access along with camp sites and showers. An RV to call your own If you don't own an RV but are interested in perhaps buying, renting can be a good "test drive". There are over 460 some odd national chain outlets that rent RVs around the country, so chances are you'll find one close to home, or an airport. According to the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association, rental prices are based three factors: season, region, and unit size (motorhome, travel trailer or truck camper). Daily rental range anywhere from $90-$200, but often you can negotiate lower per day costs if you rent by the week. What's commonly referred to as "housekeeping" packages--all the necessary pots, pans and dishes--are available at most RV rental agencies free of charge, but they do charge anywhere between $30-$00 if pieces are missing, or if you bring the dishes back dirty, so scrub those pots! "We're expecting this year to be the best yet for RV rentals, which allow you to get back to nature, be with your family, and see America comfortably and affordably," says Amy Shleton, Marketing and Communications Manager for the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association. Tips for renting an RV: Figure out whether you want to rent close to home or at the airport Look into fly-drive packages from RV rental agencies Confirm whether your insurance policy covers RVs, many do not If towing an RV, be sure you have an automatic transmission and power brakes and steering Like with most car rentals, you must be at least 25 years old to rent an RV Special offers from the biggest RV rental agencies The country's two largest RV rental companies, Cruise America and El Monte, are solid places to turn for decent rates. Neither company has any national summer sales at the moment, but each has its own regional offerings. For example, for $460 you can rent a nifty Class A motorhome with El Monte in Southern California for four nights. (Additional nights run $159.) until May 24. The company also has a whole host of one-way specials that come without same drop-off or mileage penalties. El Monte is also a great supporter of our nation's troops and regularly has special discounts for military personnel and their families. Expect to spend between $90-200/day, depending on where, when and what you rent. Cruise America's cut a deal with KOA Kampgrounds, a national chain with over 500 campgrounds across the US, that's good if you're planning on sleeping at the same site and keeping your exploring local. It works like this: you can actually rent an RV through Cruise America and then get free nights of camping (KOA sites average $40/night). Rent for three or four nights and get two nights free; rent fourteen nights and get ten free. You can only book this special online using the code: KOA. With 7.2 million RVs on the road, the growing popularity of recreational vehicles cannot be denied, even in this age of astronomically high gas prices. One thing is certain: RVs aren't just for retirees anymore.

Basic, Need-to-know Cruise Terms

The boom times of boats as the main means of getting from place to place are long since over. Except for regularly scheduled crossings of the Atlantic by the QE2--in warm-weather months only--ships other than ferries and freighters are no longer used for basic transportation, but serve instead as floating resort hotels. The fact that they sail from port to port is merely incidental to their recreational function. To most faraway places, transportation is now supplied by airplanes, and ships perform entertaining "cruises." Cruises range in length from the one-night to four-night variety (mainly between Florida and the Bahamas, best for first-time cruisers), to seven-night trips (the bulk of all cruises), to 10-night, two-week, and even longer journeys. Geographically, they take place all over the world, even in waters of the Antarctic, and passengers fly to and from the ports from which they embark and debark. Ships vary greatly in quality and price, but none--in my experience--is any longer of the rock-bottom variety, and even the cheapest among them provides reasonably comfortable facilities. Cabins are either "inside" (without portholes or windows) or "outside," and because few passengers spend any great amount of time in them, a wise policy for cost-conscious vacationers is to book the least expensive cabin on a high-quality ship, rather than a top cabin on a lesser ship. Though all travel agents will book a cruise for you, an increasing number of agents are currently dealing only in cruises, and these specialists can obviously be expected to possess greater expertise and "contacts" than the others. Elsewhere in this section of the site are seven cruise brokers, or "consolidators," that specialize in selling cruises at discounted rates. Don't limit yourself to these cruise discounters, however. As so often in travel, word-of-mouth recommendation from a friend can be your best path to an experienced cruise counselor.

Online Maps: Find Your Way to Free Directions

If you're leaving, it helps to know where you're going, right? Over the past decade, the Internet has nourished a number of free map providers, which will furnish you with customized information to help you get there. Most online maps won't help you hike the Annapurna Circuit or scale K2--the more specialized or detailed the map, the more likely you'll need to buy carefully surveyed map. But free online maps will tell you where the roads, towns, and borders are, and for most tourists, that's plenty. The most common usage of an online map provider is for driving directions. You enter a starting and ending address and the Web site suggests what it considers the most expedient route. These engines aren't fancy--they don't usually take into account construction delays, traffic, or whether you'd rather take interstates or back roads--but they're still useful to keep you from getting lost. They're also lighter than conventional maps, you don't have to fuss with folding them, and best of all: they're free. You can also use online maps to simply locate addresses on a map, provided you know the number, street name, and city. So if a friend recommends a side-street restaurant in Baltimore that you can't locate on any map, you can plug in the address (or even just the street) and your computer will zero in on it for you. Then you can print it out and take it with you. For the short-scheduled and the far-sighted, Web mapping can be a godsend. Following is an abbreviated list of the best of the online mapping engines. Each one has its own Web site, and several also allow their software to be used at other sites, which is why you'll find a Mapquest logo on searches performed at Yahoo's maps page maps.yahoo.com. MapBlast! was our favorite point-to-point driving-directions service because it was easily customizable. It has since been taken over by MSN, which has further improved the product. Now called Mapoint (mappoint.msn.com) it offers enhancements such as alerts to traffic trouble spots, turn-by-turn directions, and good places to make stops. MapBlast! offers street level maps of the United States, Canada, and Europe and city-level maps of the rest of the world. Finally, Mapoint sells its Streets & Trips GPS Locator for $129 (updated annually), including GPS hardware. The software alone sells for $39.95. One of the oldest and most visible companies is Mapquest (mapquest.com), which offers the usual complement of features, including point-to-point driving instructions. You can also e-mail your maps to any address, which can be helpful if you'd like to do advance planning and then retrieve your research on the road. Mapquest serves North America and Europe. It also has a nifty "Click and avoid highways" button for those seeking the roads less traveled. Of Mapquest and MapBlast!, we prefer the latter. In our highly subjective experience, it seems to offer more accurate and easy to follow driving directions than Mapquest. Rand McNally (randmcnally.com), the indisputable map specialist, offers free downloadable state maps that offer a degree of detail close to your standard store-bought road atlas, with major highways, towns, and interstates marked. Print them out (they're more detailed on paper than they appear on the screen) and put them in the glove compartment for trips. For point-to-point directions, it uses the MapBlast! engine. It even offers maps and directions on Java-enbabled cell phones. Maps.com (maps.com) is another service providing driving directions and address locations. It serves the lower 48 states best, but also has a workable world atlas and currency conversion engine. The site also sells maps. For the United Kingdom, some of the best coverage comes from Map24 (uk.map24.com), which boasts knowledge of every road, down to the smallest unnamed country lane. The National Park Service offers free downloadable maps of America's national parks and national monuments. They're much more detailed than the ones you receive when you enter the gates. Find those by going to each individual park's official page at nps.gov, and then clicking "Parks & Recreation" and then "Georgraphic Search." If you're hiking the Appalachian Trail, the NPS also produces a series of passable overview maps, available at rhodesmill.org. Some hikers insist you'll need something more detailed for serious multi-day hikes, and those must be purchased from camping shops.

Transcript: New Mexico

Everybody does the same thing when they come to New Mexico: They head north from Albuquerque, toward Santa Fe and Taos. But I went to school in a small town on the edge of the Navajo reservation up there, and my wife, Lynn, also once lived in that end of the state. We're more fascinated with what lies to the south, where Billy the Kid ran wild and aliens crashed. So let's discuss the south of the state, or if you like, the north. When you're traveling to New Mexico, it's all good. Ed answered your questions about New Mexico on Tuesday, February 1, 2005 at 12pm EST. Ed Readicker-Henderson figured out how to live the retired lifestyle at a very young age: winter in the desert Southwest, summer in Alaska. Over the past 15 years, his travel articles have appeared magazines on five continents (Antarctica is still particularly frustrating him, as not many penguins seem to read); he's also the author of eleven books, with five more on the way. It was the fifth of these, on America's home-grown shrines, the sacred places of our common culture, that kicked off work on this New Mexico article. Where else can you find aliens, Smokey Bear, and a half million bats flying into the desert night? _______________________ Ed Readicker-Henderson: Hi, and welcome. Thanks for stopping in for this discussion about traveling in New Mexico, especially the much overlooked southern end of the state. I'll be here answering questions for the next hour, so if there's something you're dying to know, let me know, and let's see what we can come up with. _______________________ Kansas City, KS: My buddy and I were planning to take a trip to go camping in New Mexico. What types of things should we look out for while out in the wilderness? Ed Readicker-Henderson: We're going to hit this point a couple times over the next hour--New Mexico has one of the most diverse landscapes of any state in the country. What you're going to encounter, as far as weather, conditions, alerts, is going to change with where you are. Go in the desert, you'll want to take snake precautions if you're hiking in summer; you'll also need to keep a close eye on your water supply, as dehydration is always a factor. Go into the mountains, though, and you'll be facing entirely different conditions; rather than snake precautions, you might want to take bear precautions (don't cook in the tent, try very hard not to smell like food, make some noise while you hike). Either way, there's so much wilderness in New Mexico that you have infinite choice. The main thing is go prepared for the climate, and keep a sharp eye out. Know how to navigate--yeah, GPS is fun, but my Boy Scout training insists on always having a topo map and a compass along for good measure--and always, always, always let somebody else know where you're going and when you expect to be back. _______________________ Moline, IL: I enjoyed your article as I am from Southern New Mexico. I think you missed out on some great stuff though. From Las Cruces you should have gotten off at the Hatch exit. That is where the best red and green chile comes from. From there travel towards Deming, which is 35 miles from Palomas, Mexico and Colubus, New Mexico. That was the site of the Pancho Villa raid. Further north through Silver City you would find the Gila Forest and taken the catwalk that is very impressive. Thanks for reviewing what I consider one of the most neglected part of that Wonderful State. Ed Readicker-Henderson: This is a wonderful question/comment--thanks for posting it. To roughly paraphrase Mark Twain, "you can't have everything--where would you put it?" And that's what happened to Hatch; this is such an unknown part of the state to most people, I simply couldn't fit in everything I wanted to. For those of you joining us, yes, go to Hatch. Lovely area, great history, great food. And while we're here, a couple other things that I didn't get to include in the article, but are well worth looking out for: when you're in the neighborhood of Capitan, Ruidoso is famous for its horses, its arts, and its hiking. Nearby is the Three Rivers Petroglyph National Recreation Site, well worth the stop. If you have time while you're heading up I-25 and are of a scientific bent, it's worth the sidetrip to head to the National Radio Astronomy VLA Telescope. If the people back in Roswell are right, and we're not alone, this is where we're going to be picking up the messages to prove it. A couple other quick hits: all the farmers' stands around Alamagordo; the nut farms outside Las Cruces; the great mountain town of Silver City; and, if you turn right onto 380, instead of left, as we do in the article, you end up on the far side of the Trinity Site, which utterly fascinated me as being about as much middle of nowhere as it is humanly possible to be in the continental United States. The article is a jumping off point. There is more good stuff here than most people can manage in a dozen vacations. _______________________ Austin, TX: Isn't Cloudcroft one of the most beautiful towns, not only in the state of New Mexico, but in the country? Ed Readicker-Henderson: And yes, to continue with the above discussion, Cloudcroft is gorgeous, as is the drive to the east of it--through long, narrow river valleys, full of horses. It's pretty amazing to be in the low deserts around Alamagordo, and only a very short time later be in the high mountains, wondering where in the car you stuffed your coat. _______________________ Westampton, NJ: What part of the state has the best overall climate? Ed Readicker-Henderson: And let's continue with the idea of Cloudcroft and climate here for a minute. As I've said, New Mexico's landscape is astonishingly diverse. The coldest I've ever been was walking to school, when I lived in Gallup, and the outside temperature was minus 47. The sandwich in my pocket was frozen by the time I got to class. On the other hand, summers in the desert can be . . . well, toasty. There's a certain interest to being outside in the sunshine when it's over a hundred degrees out. Everybody should try it once. The great thing about New Mexico, is that you can switch from one climate to another in an instant. There are so many high mountain towns, that you can get from the desert to the forest faster than you can drive to the grocery store back home. In summer, expect the deserts to be hot. Really hot. 90 degrees is a nice day, a hundred is not going to be that unusual. But on the same day, go up to 6,000 feet or so in the mountains, and it will be gloriously cool. And if you want to travel in the winter, it works the exact opposite way: spend the day skiing in the mountains, move down in the afternoon for a desert sunset and a chance to warm up. _______________________ Pinetops, NC: Ed, I've enjoyed 2 trips to NM thus far and hope to return again. Can you explain in simple terms what caused the monolith Shiprock to form? Thanks. Ed Readicker-Henderson: Shiprock, for those not familiar with it, is a massive rock formation in the northwest corner of the state, on the Navajo reservation. The Navajos long considered the rock sacred, and although it was always used as a landmark--you can see the thing from more than a hundred miles away--they stayed off it. It wasn't until seventy years or so ago that anybody actually climbed the thing. Two possibilities of how it was formed. According to the Navajos, who have lived with it the longest, the formation is the result of a battle between Monster Slayer and two gigantic birds that were not behaving themselves. That explains nicely the wing formations on the rock. In Navajo, the rock is called Tse bi t'a'i, with a few accent marks this program doesn't allow. The scientific, considerably less poetic explanation is that Shiprock is the world's best example of a volcanic neck. It's about 1700 feet of lava pillar, and the landscape around it has simply eroded away, leaving the hard stone behind. For those who haven't seen Shiprock, or at least a picture of it, think of the famous Western movies shots of Monument Valley-th--se huge rock formations rising up out of the flat desert. Now take one of the biggest ones, and move it out all by itself. It's a dramatic sight, and most geologists put it high on their list of places they have to see in their lives. There's also a nice small town near the rock, with all services. When I was a kid, their church softball team usually creamed my church softball team. _______________________ Orem, UT: I've heard that New Mexico has a rather large hot air balloon festival every year. Is it really all it's cracked up to be? Are there family activities? Ed Readicker-Henderson: Albuquerque has one of the most famous balloon festivals anywhere; and you don't have to come just during the festival. Because of the climate, you stand a fairly good chance of seeing balloons at any time of the year. The festival was first held in 1972, as a publicity stunt for a local radio station. Now, thirty years on, it's the biggest thing in the state. It's held the first two weekends of October, spread out over the four days. It's now considered the most-photographed annual event in the world, and in a good year, you can get a thousand balloons and who knows how many people there to watch them. To best see the balloons, you need to get up early and head out to the festival park. Balloonists like to catch the first rays of the sun, but it is something to watch, when a mass of balloons heads up into the impossibly huge New Mexico sky, all together. Balloons tend to move east with the prevailing winds, over to the Sandias, where they can pick up a western blowing wind, and end up pretty close to where they took off. This nice little loop trail in the sky has made Albuquerque a favored spot for balloonists, who come from all over the world. If you didn't get up early in the morning, come back in the evening for the balloon glow: all the colored envelopes of the balloons lit up against the dark sky. There's also a "special shapes" event, which lets people try out less traditional shapes of balloons, like the Macy Thanksgiving Parade without the lines. All day long, there's something for the family going on. Your kids will remember this forever. The one thing that has to be kept in mind is that this is the biggest thing in New Mexico; book early. Very early, for both your hotel and your rental car. _______________________ Texas: We also can't forget White Sands, one of the most beautiful places to visit. As you're driving in and see the bushes poking through the sand, you could have no idea that just a few miles down the road, the bushes will have disappeared and the sand will have taken over everything. Where else can you play on miles and miles of beautiful white beaches without getting wet? If you are in the southern part of the state, this is a must-see locale! Ed Readicker-Henderson: Absolutely. My wife and I just stood in White Sands and tried to figure out why we loved it so much. It's . . . well, white sand. Lots of it. But when you're there, surrounded by the color and the blue sky above--or come at night to catch the moonglow--it is simply a magic location. And no matter how hot the day is, the sand is always comfortably cool. Really, this is one no one should miss. _______________________ Mountain View, CA: We are planning to make 3 day road trip from Albuquerque to White Sands. We don't want to take Highway 25 twice. What alternative route you would recommend to take from Alamogordo to Santa Fe? We can spend two days on the road. Ed Readicker-Henderson: You have a couple options for this. The easy, quick way is simply to head north on 54, which is a large, major road. You will be driving through some amazing emptiness here, sage brush and distant mountains. Really quite beautiful. Going that way, you pick up with the route we took in the article where 54 meets 380, and you could easily make it to Santa Fe in a day. A rather more unusual option is to head west, and take a huge loop route. From Las Cruces to Deming, then up to Silver City, and then through the Gila National Forest. Get onto highway 36, which takes you to Gallup, and that's one day. The next day, Gallup to Albuquerque to Santa Fe, which allows you time to stop at a couple of the pueblos, walk on the lava fields near Grants, and balance on the continental divide. This is a route for scenery lovers, because you really won't get a whole lot in the way of town action along the way. Either one of these keeps you from having to repeat the interstate; one gets you north faster, so that, depending on your vacation time, you'd have a little extra for some of the sites around Santa Fe. _______________________ Austin, TX: How detrimental to tourism do you think the proposed coal bed methane drilling operations in the Valle Vidal will be? That is such a beautiful area; it would be a shame to see it despoiled with pipelines, roads, etc. Ed Readicker-Henderson: A hard question, and one we always have to ask ourselves. In the corner of the state I lived in, up around Gallup, there were all the uranium mines. The truth is, no matter where we go at this point in our history, somebody is going to be drilling or digging for something. What we've come down to is that you have to appear at the hearing meetings, and argue--if not for invisibility and and care-at least for best possible science. It's a balancing act, between conservation and economics, and the simple truth is, we need both. The ecological problem here is that this area is important to elk calving, and there's a species of trout that simply doesn't appear anywhere else. Make yourself heard. If they go through with it-an-- in the current world climate, you have to think they will--at- east try and make them be careful. And keep an eye on them. _______________________ Eugene, OR: Outside the Taos area, what are your thoughts on places to visit in the northern half of the state? I am originally from a small town between Taos and Red River and want to know that you have found as great things to see and visit other than the touristy towns of Taos and Red River? Thanks. Ed Readicker-Henderson: I have to tout for one of my favorite spots in New Mexico here, the tiny town of Chimayo. There's not a lot to Chimayo, which is about 45 minutes or so northeast of Santa Fe, but it's one of the most important towns in the state, simply because of the church. Over a million people a year come to the chapel, because there's a small pit of dirt inside, and dirt from the pit is supposed to cure anything. Anything at all. At Easter, people walk from Santa Fe to Chimayo, many of them carrying large crosses with them. At any time of year, it's a beautiful spot--and even at Easter, it doesn't feel particularly crowded. It's in a little river valley, there's a street of adobe buildings that look like they were left over from some 1940s travel film, and the whole place just gives off an atmosphere of surprised contentment. It's one of those places you stumble onto, and that stays in your mind forever as one of your favorite spots. _______________________ Columbia, SC: I am thinking about taking the 4-day road trip you mention in the article. How safe is it for single female to travel alone in New Mexico? Anything to be wary of or areas to stay away from? Ed Readicker-Henderson: Most of the route goes through small town America, people who lost the keys to their houses ten years ago and haven't gotten around to looking for them yet. That said, there are also some big cities on the route, a major interstate, and a couple places where the number of people coming and going behooves you to take standard precautions. This is, in a way, a hard question for me to answer, because I'm fairly large and it's pretty hard to make me feel unsafe, simply because of my size. My wife, though, is short and blonde, so I defer to her on this question. I tend to think that if you're watching out, paying attention, you're not going to run into any problems. My wife and I have traveled this area a number of times, and I've never felt uncomfortable if she's wanted to go out on her own. She's in the background now, saying "You always want to keep your head up and your wits about you," but that to her, New Mexico has always felt like a very relaxed place. Pay attention. If it feels wrong, go somewhere else. But don't deny yourself the beauty of the state. _______________________ Clearfield, UT: I'm moving to Clovis, NM. What can I expect? Ed Readicker-Henderson: Clovis is an old railroad and ranching town, and it still has a lot of that feel to it. The town's claim to fame is that it's where Buddy Holly recorded "Peggy Sue," and where Roy Orbison did some of his early work. All this gets celebrated at the annual music festival, held each July. One other little point of interest, is that there is a nearby archaeological site, Black Water Draw, where they found the remains of mammoth hunters--the desert Southwest was once a great place to be a mammoth. As for the town itself, we're talking small town New Mexico. You'll be somewhat isolated, with plenty of wide open spaces around to enjoy. _______________________ Philadelphia, PA: We are planning a trip to New Mexico and are torn about the time of year to visit. We want to see ABQ as well as go into Santa Fe and Taos. Our options are the end of March or the summer months. What are your thoughts? Ed Readicker-Henderson: End of March can be very beautiful. I was up in the northern part of the state two years ago at that time, and we did have some interesting weather--a little snow, a lot of sunshine--so take some layers of clothes, just to be on the safe side. If you're heading north, even summer isn't that hot, though, because you're up in the high mountains. There's also more to do in the summer, as the pueblos hold many of their ceremonial dances in the summer, when they can best get people in to watch them; also, summer is simply more geared up for the traveler, with summer markets and festivals. On the other hand, depending on what the rest of the winter is like, there's probably still going to be good skiing to the north. _______________________ Wylie, TX: My husband and I are going to spend the weekend before Valentine's Day in Albuquerque. We will be doing the requisite ski thing, but other than that, what are the 'must-sees' for a short trip? Ed Readicker-Henderson: How short is your trip, and how much of it are you going to spend on the slopes? A few really interesting things right around Albuquerque: you can make a day trip to Santa Fe, and check out the oldest still used church in the United States, as well as some great colonial architecture. You can go west, and take a look at Laguna or Acoma pueblos. Just staying in town, there's the Old Town, well worth spending some time. There's a winery district, which most people don't expect, just north of Old Town, and also a bird reserve, the Rio Grande Nature Center State Park, which, at that time of year, may or may not have a whole lot to see, depending on who's migrating through and who's sticking around. Also some cool museums in Albuquerque, including a rattlesnake museum and the National Atomic Museum, where you can see replicas of Little Boy and Fat Man, and marvel at the innocence of a time when they thought they could just build a great big box to keep the blast in. _______________________ Middletown, NJ: What about kids? What is there to do in New Mexico for kids ages 7-13? Ed Readicker-Henderson: Well, when my wife and I were both kids in New Mexico, we spent a lot of time in the desert hiking; and when we were done with that, we went hiking in the forest. If your kids aren't outdoor types, you might run into a little trouble, because this is a state where you want to spend your time outside. Lots of history in Santa Fe, as we all know. At the other end of the state, the Smokey Bear Museum is something all kids should see. There are plenty of places to go horseback riding. And I wish, I wish, I wish my parents had taken me to Carlsbad Caverns when I was little. Watching the bats come out on a summer night is one of the most magical things I have ever seen in my life; I can't imagine the awe I would have felt if I'd gotten to see that river of bats when I was younger. Much less had a chance to go sledding at White Sands. _______________________ Anthem, AZ: We love the New Mexico Adventure south from Albuquerque...but we are wondering about the safety of the route...and best times to see any wildflowers...if there are any to be seen. Ed Readicker-Henderson: This should be an amazing year for wildflowers; after way too many dry years, the Southwest is finally getting some rain. But you're in Anthem--you already know that. As for safety of the route, as I said before on the question about women traveling alone, this just shouldn't be a place where you need to worry. Small town America. Take normal precautions, don't let worry ruin your trip. _______________________ Ed Readicker-Henderson: Thank you all for stopping in. I'm sorry I couldn't get to everybody's question, but I did at least try to touch on all the issues involved. I think you'll discover that New Mexico is one of the most overlooked states in the country. There is so much to see and do here, it's perfect for travelers of all types and all ages. You have to love wide open country, because you're going to see a lot of it, but you will be richly, richly rewarded. Thanks for your time, and I wish you all a safe and happy journey. _______________________