The 10 Big Trends in Cruise Ship Vacations

June 4, 2005
The use of more American ports, additional costs while at sea, the growth of discounters, and more

As the cool weather approaches, and visions of tropical islands dance in our heads, a great many Americans are finally aware that the cheapest way to achieve those dreams is on a cruise.

For as little as $1,400 to $1600 per person (if you're paying the standard catalogue price), and sometimes averaging out to cost less than $75 a day (if you're lucky enough to find a discount), the cruise lines will fly you to Miami or San Juan, place you in a modest but thoroughly comfortable cabin (you'll scarcely spend any time there), and then sail you from island to island for seven days as they ply you with constant food and entertainment.

Even more affordable are the drive-cruise vacations, which have seen considerable growth in the post-9/11 world. For at least the short term (the trend will likely end in spring 2003), many cruise lines upped the number of cruises departing from ports that are easy for huge populations to drive to: New York, Boston, Charleston, Baltimore, Galveston, San Francisco, Seattle, Tampa, New Orleans, and the like. This way, people who prefer not to fly can still take a cruise, often for less than the price of the traditional fly-cruise vacation. No matter whether you fly or drive before beginning your cruise, often what you'll find is a remarkable, rub-your-eyes value, available at that level nowhere else in travel.

Put aside the possibility that these low prices are the product of substandard wages paid to the Emerging World sailors who staff the ships (see "Slave labor on the loveboats?" in the "Testy Opinions" area of this Web site or that massive government subsidies to European shipbuilders permit the vessels to be built for costs no U.S. shipyard can currently match. However they do it, more than 100 large cruiseships are not only offering low and moderate rates (even in the luxury class,) but a broad variety of bargain rates for every purse, and an even broader array of new, low-cost travel itineraries or themes, both colorful and complex. Consider ten separate cruise developments:

1. The continued erratic appearance of secret discounts 

As if we were a broken record, we've been pointing out for a dozen years that it's exceedingly unwise (polite understatement) to pay the published price for a cruise. There has been a major "sea change", so to speak in this regard, thanks to a crackdown by the cruiselines on cruise discounters. Norwegian Cruise Lines, Celebrity, and Carnival all announced in the fall of 2004 that they would no longer be allowing travel agents to rebate their commissions; or to buy group cabins at a discount and then resell them to the public. This has led to a severe diminuition of discounts, especially on these lines. But many discounters are still doing what they've always done for sailings on the other lines, and there are still major price breaks to be had.

Where do you get the discounted rates? From retail travel agents specializing or heavily into cruises or from so-called cruise-brokers; they all offer unpublished rates. As well, an online site called Cruise Compete serves as a reverse auction site for many of these agencies, allowing users to put in which dates they wish to cruise and various travel agents to bid for their business. The system works quite well actually.

Why do the cruiselines, unlike the airlines, handle their discounting in that clandestine manner? Beats me. But if you'd like examples of the savings available from favored outlets, call such travel agents as the ones listed in our Top Cruise Consolidators section of this chapter.

2. A growing variety of ships 

Hard on the heels of several mega-monster cruiseships carrying as many as 2,600 passengers apiece, comes a newer wave of small ships limited to between 100 and 250 passengers, "exploration" cruiseships (capable of entering small coves) of such as the Seaquest company, the sleek vessels of Windstar Cruises, and a number of others. (Some say the trend is a backlash against the oversized ships, with their atrium lobbies more resembling a hotel at sea than a boat.) Though the small new ships aren't rock-bottom in price, they're generally less expensive than the larger luxury ships whose standards they emulate. Even on an ultra-deluxe, one-week cruise, suites sell for as little as $350 and $450 a night per person (published) and occasionally for as little as $250 to $350 a night per person (through discounters). Thus, in just about any reasonable price range, you now have a choice of tiny, small, medium-sized, large, and monstrous vessels.

3. The growth of "drive market" cruises

As spelled out above, many cruise lines post-9/11 have adjusted their itineraries allowing more ships to depart from drive-friendly ports such as New York, Boston, Mobile, New Orleans, and Galveston, to accommodate travelers preferring not to fly. It make take longer to get the more popular cruise destinations, but the cruise lines have tapped into an eager market who'd rather drive over fly before hopping aboard a ship.

4. The rebirth of the passenger-carrying freighter 

There's yet another cruise alternative. Having all but disappeared about a decade ago, freighter sailings have made a remarkable comeback and are now available on no fewer than forty vessels going to all inhabited areas of the world. The reason: Increasing computerization of freighter operation has lessened the need for crew and made their cabins available for passengers, at rates that can run as low as $80 a day per person, but more usually hover around $100 to $110. For a totally comprehensive list of all such ships, their dates of departure, prices, and destinations, contact Freighter World Cruises, Inc., (180 South Lake Avenue, Suite 335, Pasadena, CA 91101, 626/449-3106 or 800/531-7774, Web: freighterworld.com).

5. The "explosion" of itineraries

Time was (and not that many years ago) when nearly all cruise ships went to Bermuda and the Bahamas in winter, and to the Caribbean in summer. Then came the discovery--probably by a junior cruiseline employee--that it costs no more to operate ships in other seas of the world; only the airfare for getting there rises by a relatively insignificant amount. And thus it came about that cruiselines today, in their fierce competitive struggle, vie with one another in offering exotic cruise destinations for not much more than they charge for the standard one-weeker to St. Thomas/St. Croix/St. Kitts. Southeast Asia is coming on strong (four lines now cruise there), as are cruises to the lengthy coastlines of Africa and India, the Antarctic, South America and the South Seas. Europe's Mediterranean has returned to popularity, but this time supplemented by cruises of the North and Baltic Seas, especially to port cities of Eastern Europe. If you've "had it" with steel bands, straw hat souvenirs, and tours of the "Governor's Mansion"--the staple of Caribbean cruising--you now have countless cruise alternatives to areas far less heavily touristed.

6. The boom in "theme cruises"

Along with this expansion in itineraries has come a vastly greater schedule of activities at sea, almost always at no extra charge to the basic tariff. Movies have been joined by full-scale stage shows; ocean skeet shooting now takes a rear seat to spa-style aerobics and yoga meditation; and "theme" cruises--extra heavy attention to styles of music, historical periods, food specialties, murder-mystery, square dancing, lectures by athletes, chefs, poets, and inspirational psychologists--are numbered in the dozens. Another popular theme cruise in recent times, even though it carries an extra fee? Sailings for spouses of either sex who really don't enjoy cruises, and therefore spend their time on board learning computer software programs.

7. The bonanza of wind-driven cruises

Low-cost cruising (a current average of $110 to $150 a day per person) with 80-or-so other passengers in a sail-powered "tall ship" was the breakthrough idea of Windjammer Barefoot Cruises in the early 1960s; it presently operates seven 200-to-230-foot ships. When competition arrived in the late 1980s, it took the form of high-priced and extremely elegant ships (upwards of $350 and $400 a day per person). Wonder of wonders, a mid-priced line ($200 to $225 a day, on average) operating the Star Clipper and Star Flyer has recently emerged on the scene for unpretentious people who nevertheless crave the creature comforts that Windjammer doesn't always provide. Here's the beginning of what may become a major segment of the cruiseship industry, best analyzed by phoning "Star Clippers" at 800/442-0551 or go online to starclippers.com for literature.

8. The "slightly longer" cruise 

The length of the voyage is also undergoing change. After years of almost exclusively operating 3-night, 4-night and 7-night cruises some lines are clearly moving toward a 10-night and 11-night pattern, at prices that capitalize on the obvious economies involved in such a step (for one thing, air fare to the embarkation point is amortized over more days). The now defunct Fantasy Cruises was among the first to experiment in 10- and 11-nighters followed by its sister company Celebrity Cruises whose Mercury, Galaxy and Zenith periodically traverse the Panama Canal and surrounding areas on 14- and 15-night stints (the line's Horizon also takes 10- and 11-night sails through the Caribbean in Spring). For that matter, the number of four- and five-night cruises has also increased over the past two years, so overall there is more of a variety out there in terms of cruise length than in the past.

9. A rush to the Antarctica

In a spurt of new activity, a handful of cruise lines (including Holland America, Orient, and Society Expeditions) now take hardy adventurers to that frigid continent during its relatively "warm" time of late December, January and February; and for the first time, they include larger vessels normally carrying from 400 to 800 passengers apiece. Use of so large a ship drops the cost to starting at around $5,500-plus-airfare per person for a two-week Antarctic expedition. Note, though, that environmentalists have decried the introduction of that many people to a largely untouched and undisturbed terrain.

10. All (not) inclusive cruises

In the past, cruisers could be reasonably sure that nearly everything onboard (except drinks) was included in a "one-time" price. Not so anymore. Some cruisers now pay one price for their cruise and port fees, which includes accommodations and standard dining, and then they are charged extra for other optionals onboard. Eating in certain upscale restaurants onboard costs extra on some cruises. Also, many of the trendy new activities on cruises, such as the rock-climbing wall or miniature golf, often incur a fee. So, before booking, ask questions about what is, and what isn't, included in the "one-time" price.

What makes cruising so popular? No daily packing and unpacking, one price for everything, multiple destinations, remarkable value. But there can be too much of a good thing. That's why cruiselines have taken a once-simple activity and added a multitude of complex options, alternatives, and formats. In the process, they've now created a custom-cruise for everyone, and I find that good news.

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Costa Rica Air/Hotel Package

The Real Deal: Roundtrip airfare from Miami to San Jose plus a four-night stay at the Best Western Irazu Hotel When: Through Nov. 30, 2005 Gateways: Miami; other gateways available for an add-on charge. Details:Package includes round-trip airport & hotel transfers, breakfast daily, all hotel taxes & service charges. Book By: Nov. 25, 2005 Contact: Jet-a-Way Holidays, jetawayholidays.com The name does not lie. Costa Rica, Spanish for the rich coastline, really is what its name claims--at least in terms of natural wonders. Praised by our government as Central America's success story for maintaining a peaceful existence for almost an entire century in the midst of a not so peaceful world, Costa Rica seems to have it all. Home to some of the most diverse wildlife on the planet, with its jungles, mountainous terrain and four volcanoes (two of them active), this oldest democracy in the region is made for adventure. But it's also just as ideal for lounging on the beach and basking in the tropical sun--and with its two coastlines, you can choose between swimming in the Caribbean Sea or the North Pacific Ocean. Here's a way how you might enjoy all that for fairly cheap. Jet-a-Way Holidays is offering a five-day Costa Rican sampler that for $379 takes you from Miami to San Jose and back and it includes a four-night stay at the Best Western Irazu Hotel, (which bears the name of one of the volcanoes whose eruption in the 1960's was quite destructive). Housing the largest 24-hour casino in the country and equipped with an outdoor pool, tennis courts and spa facilities and, of course, a bar, the hotel--10 minutes from downtown San Jose and the airport--seems to be a leisurely adventure of its own. Hotel-to-airport transfers, daily breakfast and all hotel and service charges are part of Jet-a-Way's deal, which is good for travel through November 30. Here's a sampler of add-on charges apply for other US gateways:   Washington, D.C. - $10   Orlando - $40   Atlanta/Los Angeles - $70   Philadelphia - $80   Boston/Chicago/Denver/New York/San Francisco/Seattle - $110   Dallas - $160   Houston - $250 Since we try to find you trips that won't dig a hole in your pocket, we suggest you keep an eye on that extra change by looking out for pickpockets and purse slashers in San Jose's crowded public quarters. But isn't that the case anywhere you travel, even in places as tame as Western Europe (Rome, anyone?). Just follow the common sense precautions by not carrying too many valuables with you. Oh, and look out for mustard ("accidentally" spilling condiments on tourists and then "helping you clean up" seems to be a popular trick.) If you decide to go to Costa Rica, forgoing the Jet-a-Way deal, be prepared to pay anywhere from $210 (American Airlines) and up for a roundtrip from Miami to San Jose and at least $70 a night for a double room at a low-priced hotel.

The RV Life

It's the opposite of chic, somewhat rustic and rough. Yet the fastest-growing means for vacationing in America is the recreational vehicle, and the people using them are the finest travelers our country has. You meet them with increasing frequency. They can be your best friends who have just returned from a three-month trip through the national parks--in a shiny new motor home--and claim it's the best thing they've ever done. They are your neighbors who have bought a trailer they're going to use to "winter" in a luxury RV resort of Florida. They are images of yourself as you day-dream about getting away from it all, buying a recreational vehicle, and taking off to see the great outdoors, the sights of the Southwest, the scattered grandchildren across the land. But how do you get started? Buying a recreational vehicle--an RV--is a major investment that can even exceed $40,000 and $50,000. Is it worth the outlay? Will you enjoy the lifestyle of the semi-nomad? Will you get restless and claustrophobic, or will you have the travel experience of a lifetime? A bit of analysis is in order: The vehicles themselves "RVs"--a generic term for a conveyance that combines transportation with living quarters--come in two varieties. They can be motorized (like motor homes or van conversions) or towable units (like travel trailers, truck campers, and folding camp trailers.) The motor homes, most popular among retired Americans, are built on or as part of a self-propelled vehicle chassis, with kitchen, sleeping, bathroom, and dining facilities all easily accessible to the driver's cab from the inside. They range from 18 to 40 feet in length, can sleep from two to eight people, and cost from $22,000 for "compacts" to $60,000 for larger types, with luxury-status models going way up to $150,000 and more. Conversions are cheaper (but smaller.) These are vans, originally manufactured by an auto maker, that have been modified for recreation purposes through the installation of side windows, carpeting, paneling, custom seats and sofas, and assorted accessories. They can sleep from two to four people, and sell for an average of $20,000. Travel trailers are hard-sided units designed to be towed by an auto, van, or pickup truck, and can be unhitched from the tow vehicle. They sleep four to eight people, and provide such comforts as kitchen, toilet, sleeping, dining, and living facilities, electric and water systems, and modern appliances. Models range from $10,000 to $25,000, depending on size and features. Truck campers are camping units that are loaded onto the bed or chassis of a pickup truck. Many have kitchen and bathroom facilities. They sleep two to six, and go for $4,000 to $10,000. Folding camping trailers are units with collapsible sides that fold for lightweight towing by a motorized vehicle. Set up, they provide kitchen, dining, and sleeping facilities for four to eight people, and sell for between $1,500 and $12,000. The advantages In an RV, you follow your own flexible time schedule, without fixed reservations anywhere, without depending on others (hotels, trains, planes.) You don't constantly pack and unpack; in fact, you carry no luggage. You cook when you like, eat out only when you wish, say good-bye to greasy spoons, and usually enjoy home-prepared food. You can have your pets with you. You can visit friends or relatives anywhere in the country without imposing on them: your RV, parked in their driveway, becomes your own private guest cottage--as well as your summer beach house, your winter chalet. You make friends easily upon arriving at a camping ground or RV resort. RV-ers are, in general, enthusiasts who love their lifestyle and like sharing it with new people. They are constantly attending rallies, caravans, campouts, meeting with other RV-ers to share common interests. "It's difficult to be lonely in a campground," says one confirmed RV-er. "Our luxury RV resort in Florida ($15 a night) was constantly holding social events. Between dinners and galas, folk dances and exercise classes, meeting new people was not only simple--it was unavoidable." And RV travel is economical. You can purchase fresh local produce on the road and cook your own meals. Your stay at campgrounds is usually nominal ($10 to $40 a night is typical.) And there's no one to tip. One study shows that an RV vacation costs about half the expense of a car/hotel vacation, one-third the cost of a bus/hotel or train/hotel holiday, and one-fourth the cost of an air/hotel vacation. The drawbacks But RV travel is not for everyone--it may not be for you. A Philadelphia couple I know who recently spent four months traveling across country in a motor home issued the following caveats: "Be sure," they said, "you feel extremely comfortable with whomever you will be traveling with; you're going to spend long periods of time in close quarters. Be sure you're an expert driver and enjoy spending long periods on the road. Above all, don't take this kind of trip unless you're extremely flexible, elastic even, and able to cope with new situations, which happen all the time. Mechanical breakdowns are not uncommon and you have to be able to handle them without getting upset." Renting before buying Many first-time RV-ers begin by renting a motor home to get used to driving a large vehicle and used to spending a great deal of driving time together. Now they're so enthusiastic, they're planning to sell their large suburban home, move into a small apartment, buy an RV, and spend at least six months on the road each year. "The excitement and variety of life cannot be compared with any travel experience we've ever had--and we're experienced foreign travelers," they say. "It's a new kind of life, a brand-new world we never saw before." The rental process The first step is to look in your local telephone directory under the category "Recreation Vehicles--Renting and Leasing." Or you can call one of the three major national companies: Cruise America (800/671-8042, cruiseamerica.com); and Bates International Motor Home Rental Network (800/732-2283), or visit batesintl.com; El Monte RV Center (888 337-2214, elmonterv.com .) Another firm, Altman's Winnebago, (800/400-0787, altmans.com) may also be worth a call. It's also useful to visit the Web site of the Recreational Vehicles Rental Association at rvra.org. It contains a list of companies that rent RV's, including prices and addresses, in almost all of the 50 states. Rental costs vary considerably, depending on type of vehicle, when and for how long you want it, season, and other variables. One way of getting a good price is by regularly checking the Web sites of the major rental outfits, which periodically post specials. One of the "grander" motor homes--either a 26-foot Alumalite by Holiday Rambler or a 27-foot Southwester by Fleetwood--will average $700 to $1,000 a week, plus low-cost mileage (29 cents per mile after an initial number of free miles). But that's for a vehicle that can sleep six people and is fully self-contained, with such added features as a microwave oven, roof air conditioning, its own generator and propane tank (so that a hookup is not necessary), power steering, and almost everything else you can name. It is usually cheaper to rent from a private individual, but then you must be aware of the risk you take if a breakdown should occur; a private owner can usually do little for you, while with a major company, repairs are either handled on the spot or you are given a new vehicle and put back on the road within 24 hours. Rental dealers may also apply the cost of a rental to a future purchase. They can provide you with broad forms of insurance. Some will arrange tour packages if you're traveling to popular state or national parks or historic landmarks. Others offer orientation sessions and packages that include linens and cookware. The most important step is advance study and comparison-shopping before you rent. Make sure you understand the terms of the agreement, take your vehicle out for a test spin, and reserve as far in advance as possible. Indeed, the "RV life" is becoming so popular that a reservation several months in advance might not be a bad idea. Looking to the Web Making all of the steps to successful and enjoyable RV-ing easier are Web sites dedicated to informing enthusiasts about every facet of this growing trend. Buy or sell a motor home, find the best campgrounds to park, check out dozens of rental companies, and even learn easy recipes to make inside your RV--all on the Internet. To help you sift through the many available sites, we've chosen five of the most useful: RV Trader Online (rvtraderonline.com) is a great source for those looking to purchase an RV. With classified ads listing motor homes for sale, an extensive listing of dealers that can be searched by zip code, campground information, and resources for those in need of parts and accessories, RV Trader is certainly worthy of a visit, especially for those looking to buy. Rainbow RV Club International: (rainbowrv.net) is a unique site that should be the first stop for gay and lesbian RV-ers. Claiming to offer the Web's largest database of gay and lesbian campgrounds, the site lists 170 gay-friendly places to park your RV from coast to coast. The site also features an events calendar, message board, chat room, and links all geared towards gay and lesbian RV-ers. Much of the information is only available if you pay for the annual membership, which costs $19.95. RV Home: (rvhome.com) contains a wealth of information about RV-ing. While some of its topic links bring you only to advertisements, others are quite useful: an RV-geared bulletin board, tips, campground reviews, and fairly extensive classifieds. There's also a listing of RV dealers indexed by state. RV USA: (rvusa.com) is among the best organized and most useful RV sites available. The site includes interesting features such as cookbook links (like "The Four Ingredient Cookbook Collection") especially selected for the small RV kitchens. The site also features forums for RV-ers to ask questions, and exchange tips and information, and allows members to post classified ads selling RV's for free. A host of travel information, including campgrounds, places to eat, sights to see, grocery stores, and events around the country, can also be found on the site. Caravans and rallies around the globe: Taking the guesswork out of RV travel, caravans are package tours where recreational vehicle owners drive in groups (usually no larger than 25 units). The campground sites are reserved, activities are planned, and participants tour a region with enough freedom to allow for their own interests, but enough organization to keep them fairly busy. In the 1950s, 60s and 70s it wasn't uncommon to see a 20-unit caravan hitting the American interstates simultaneously, each vehicle pulling over when the caravan master (head RV) did. Though some still opt for this form of caravan (which can sometimes create a logistical nightmare, not to mention possible road congestion), many others have adopted the "scatter" concept of RV-ing. This allows individual RV-ers to travel at their own leisure, stopping at points of interest, and meeting at a given time at the day's final destination. Those who take part in a caravan often create lifelong friendships, even holding reunions year after year. Quite different from a caravan is a rally, usually a gathering of RV-ers at a large-scale and well-known event like Mardi Gras, the Kentucky Derby, or the Albuquerque Balloon Festival. Rallies can be relatively small, attracting about the same number of RVs as a caravan (20), or can grow extremely large, with as many as 150 units. Whereas a caravan keeps drivers on the road, the rally only requires that you show up at the campground with an RV, where it will remain stationary until you depart. The organizers typically arrange for transfers (usually via motor coach) to transport rallyists to events. While dozens of companies operate caravans and rallies, we've highlighted three of the biggest--and the best, and two specialty RV organizations (one for solo travelers, the other for women only). Creative World: (4005 Toulouse Street, New Orleans, LA 70119, phone 800/732-8337, Web: creativeworldtravel.com or rv-fun.com) is a forefather in RV travel, and among the best out there today. Founded in 1976 by "Big Bill" LaGrange (who has traveled to 130 countries himself), Creative World offers over 45-50 different rallies and caravan itineraries, all of which are listed on their sleek, easy-to-use Web site. Rallies range from seven to 42 days (for international trips) in length at a cost of about $1,300 to $8,000 for two people. A six-night itinerary to Mardi Gras for two, for example, runs $1,350, and includes everything from city tours to Cajun cooking lessons to the premiere events of Carnival. Two- to six-week caravan packages are similarly priced , with itineraries throughout the U.S. and Canada, and in Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. Upon arrival at the initial meeting spot on a caravan, participants are given an extensive trip log/guidebook with easy-to-follow directions indicating meeting points each day. When the RV-ers depart a given location, they're told when and where to meet, and they can consult their guidebook for directions, sights of interest along the way, and the history of the towns they're passing through. Creative World's caravans are priced at $2,000 to $7,000 for two people, and like their rallies, include what other companies often offer as "optionals," such as entertainment, additional meals, and guided touring opportunities. Adventure Caravans: (125 Promise Lane, Livingston, TX 77350, phone 800/872-7897, Web: adventurecaravans.com) is another well-known RV caravan and rally company. It's particularly of interest to those who want to go RV-ing in Central America and Mexico, where Creative World doesn't venture. It arranges rallies at many of the same events as Creative World, with rates averaging from $100 to $225 per day. Its caravans run from 12 days to 78 days, and are priced from $995 to $17,390 for two people, though they include far fewer activities than Creative World. In total, it has about 63 different programs in the US, plus five overseas. Fantasy RV Tours: (111 Camino Del Rio, Gunnison, CO. 81230, phone 800/952-8496, Web: fantasyrvtours.com) is among the nation's largest caravan companies, but its specialty is RV travel through Mexico. One-third of the company's 75 yearly departures head to our neighbor to the south, with the balance cruising through the U.S., Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and a variety of countries in Europe. Its caravans, six to 48 days in length, cost between $1,800 and $11,500 for two people, including one meal daily, camping fees, some entertainment, and many tours and admission fees. One defining characteristic of a Fantasy caravan is its insistence on sticking with the original style of caravanning. Unlike many of its competitors, when a Fantasy caravan makes a departure, all of its rigs follow. Loners on Wheels, Inc: (P.O. Box 1060-WB, Cape Girardeau, MO 63702, tel: 888/569-4478, Web: lonersonwheels.com) organizes campouts, caravans, and potlucks around the U.S., Mexico, and Canada, and sends out a newsletter with information on all of the above. The organization is devoted to people who enjoy RV-ing on their own, but who also like to meet up with like-minded travelers from time to time. A rather large organization, it forms caravans of RVs operated solely by singles, and takes them to rallies and camp-outs all over North America. Annual dues are $45. RVing Women: (P.O. Box 1940 Apache Junction, AZ 85217, tel: 888/557-8464 or 480/671-6226, Web: rvingwomen.com) is another specialist operation, this one focused (as the name states) on women who travel by RV. The organization offers advice, support, seminars, caravans, and a bi-monthly magazine and membership directory to "on-your-own" women RVers who are single, widowed, divorced or have husbands who just hate camping. Membership is $45 a year, with a processing fee of $10. Motorhomes in Great Britain and Ireland: Eveer vacationed in a recreational vehicle? Then why not do so in Britain? The campsites and trailer parks there are as numerous as here and large fleets of what the English call "motor caravans" are available for rental from numerous firms at rates of L658 to L890 (US$1,236 to $1,670) per week for the summer months, down by L35 ($US144) per week in the other months of the year; rates cover everything except gasoline, food and nominal charges at the campsites. In a vehicle fully equipped with beds and sleeping bags, toilets and all cooking and eating utensils, you'll wander the British Isles without fear of high hotel rates or fully booked hotels and share the company of camping English people, all at marvelously low rates. Among the largest of the British firms are Hornchurch Motor Caravans, 5-7 Broadway Parade, Elm Park Avenue, Hornchurch, Essey RM12 4RS (phone 011-44-01-708-443782, Web: hmcc.co.uk) or the company's American partner; Motor Home Rentals, 37-39 Upper Halliford Road, Shepperton, Middlesex, TW17 8RX (phone 011-44-1932-770-765, Web: motorhome-rentals.co.uk); Marquis Motorhome Centre, Winchester Road, Lower Upham, Nr Southampton SO32 1HA (phone 011-44-1489-860-666, Web: marquis-mh.co.uk); and Leighway Hire, 246 Chertsey Lane, Staines, Middlesex, TW18 3NF (phone 011-44-178-445-5073, Web: leighwayrental.co.uk). The last firm will send a mini-bus to pick you up at Gatwick or Heathrow Airports at no additional charge if you request this service in advance (give them at least one day's notice). For rentals on the Emerald Isle (both in the Northern Ireland and the Republic), contact Motorhome Ireland (17 Valley Rd., Banbridge Co Down, N. Ireland BT32 4HF tel: 011-44-028-4062-1800 Web: motorhome-irl.co.uk). For Web sites that detail campsites and their locations, try the official site of Caravan and Camping Ireland: camping-ireland.ie.

Twice the Tuscany, Half the Cost

Tuscany tops its billing. It is an Arcadian countryside strung with grapevines, shimmering silver with olive trees, and peppered with medieval hilltowns and ancient art-stuffed cities. Tuscany is the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florentine steaks, and Chianti wine- an earthly Eden, a must-see stop on big bus tours and a playground for rich wine snobs. Yet the very richness and variety of its culture ensures there's always a budget alternative to $100 wines and $500 hotel rooms. We're going to enjoy Tuscan feasts for under $15, sample some of Italy's greatest wines for free, admire masterful fourteenth- and fifteenth-century frescoes in churches and cheap civic museums, and stay in rooms with a view for under $50. We'll do that by avoiding familiar Florence and tourist-jammed Pisa (where the newly reopened Leaning Tower costs a ridiculous E15/$13.75 to climb) in favor of four alternative urban wonders just a few kilometers away. Two of our towns are also tourist favorites but hide a budget side: Siena, a Gothic city of brick palazzi and notoriously friendly citizens, famous for turning out major saints, sinful cookies, and colorful Gothic frescoes; and San Gimignano, a "Medieval Manhattan" of more than a dozen stone skyscrapers. Two others are on the brink of discovery, beloved by discriminating travelers but as yet bypassed by the big tour buses: Elegant Lucca with its pretty churches and preference for bicycles over cars, and wine-soaked Montepulciano, where wine tasting is free and Renaissance palaces sit atop a labyrinth of aging cellars. (The room rates we cite below are totals for a double room, and the restaurant prices cover a full meal-pasta, main course, and dessert-with wine, water, and cover charge.) Lucca Lucca (just next to Pisa) is a genteel, unjustifiably overlooked city set into plains that wash up against the foothills of the snowcapped Apuan Alps, where Michelangelo mined his marble. The choirs of its Romanesque churches once rang with the young voices of future composers Puccini and Boccherini. Puccini warbled at San Michele in Foro, which rises at the very center of town on the site of Lucca's ancient forum. The church's lofty facade is distinctive of the local Romanesque style, a towering stack of open arcades kneeling on rows of midget, mismatched columns. The stack of thirteenth-century facade arcades on the Duomo di San Martino cathedral hangs above a portico packed with medieval carvings and sculptures. The sacristy (E1.65/$1.50) preserves Lucca's great art treasure, Jacopo della Quercia's masterly early Renaissance tomb of Ilaria Guinigi, a tragic beauty who married the town boss before dying at 26. The cathedral's religious treasure is the Volto Santo, a time-blackened Christ that legend holds was carved by Nicodemus himself (it's probably a thirteenth-century copy of an eighth-century Syrian work). This ancient town still preserves its Roman street plan, including Piazza Anfiteatro, an oval of medieval buildings grafted onto the remains of an ancient amphitheater within a circuit of massive sixteenth-century brick bastions. The broad ramparts were turned into a narrow city park by Princess Elisa Bacciocchi, Napol,on's sister, whose regency ended Lucca's long centuries as an independent republic. It's now a grand tree-shaded avenue thronged with Luccans strolling or riding their bicycles. Luccans far prefer biking to driving, and you'll find few cars within the walls (rent your own cycle wheels for about E2.20/$2 per hour at the rental outfits on Piazza Santa Maria). At 4:30 p.m., locals line up at the Art Nouveau take-out window of Amadeo Giusti, Via Santa Lucia 18-20, to snack on Lucca's best pizza bianca (white pizza). They then take the snack on their evening passeggiata (after-dinner stroll) along shop-lined Via Fillungo, popping into historic 1846 Antico Caff, di Simo at no. 58 for an espresso or Campari. Luccan lodging Lucca's best hotels are all small family-run affairs. Phone ahead to book at the excellent Piccolo Hotel Puccini, run by the wonderfully helpful Paolo, a block from central Piazza San Michele (Via di Poggio 9; 0583-55-421, hotelpuccini.com, E80/$73.45 per double room; breakfast E3.50/$3.20). On a pocket-size piazza off Via Fillungo sits the amiable La Luna, where seventeenth-century frescoes decorate a few of the otherwise contemporary rooms (Corte Compagni 12; 0583-493-634, hotellaluna.com, E99/$90.80 per double; breakfast E10.50/$9.65). Cheapest of the lot, half a block from the Duomo near the city's southern walls, simple little Albergo Diana is divided into a main hotel and a slightly more luxurious, more expensive annex; the staff is sometimes unfriendly (Via Molinetto 11; 0583-492-202, albergodiana.com, E52-E83/$47.75-$76.20 per double room; breakfast ... la carte from E3.50/$3.20). Luccan meals Lucca sports three excellent trattorie serving up inexpensive, heaping portions of Lucchese dishes, including zuppa di farro (emmer wheat soup). Trattoria Da Leo is the old-fashioned lunch spot of choice for locals just off the central Piazza San Michele (Via Tegrimi 1; 0583-492-236, meals around E20/$18.35). The huge Da Giulio packs them in for dinner, making up for a lack of graceful decor with quality cooking and smiling service (Via Conce 45/Piazza San Donato, 0583-55-948, E20/$18.35). Papa runs the single room of homey Da Guido, mamma runs the kitchen, and there's a TV blaring in the corner (Via Cesare Battisti 28; 0583-476-219, E14/$12.85). For a lighter meal in Lucca, head to Pizzeria da Felice for excellent pizza by the slice, local specialty flatbreads cecina (made with chickpeas) and chestnut-flour castagnaccio stuffed with sweet ricotta (Via Buia 12; 0583-494-986, E4.55/$4.20). Siena Siena is a city in hilltown clothing. Its Gothic brick palazzi and marble Baroque church facades are splayed along three ridge tops centered along a trio of (usually) car-free boulevards: Shopping drag Via Banchi di Sopra, touristy Via di Citt..., and quiet Via Banchi di Sotto. The three meet just outside Siena's lovely main square, Piazza del Campo, a sloping scallop-shell of herringbone brick where people picnic, nap, and celebrate soccer victories. Anchoring the base is the crenellated thirteenth-century town hall, the Palazzo Pubblico/Museo Civico, well worth the E6.50 ($6) admission to admire its public spaces frescoed with Sienese Gothic masterpieces. These include Simone Martini's courtly, early La Maest... (Madonna in Majesty) and the richly patterned Guidoriccio. Ambrogio Lorenzetti's seminal Allegory of Good and Bad Government and its Effects on the Town and Countryside, which is packed with scenes of fourteenth-century daily life and is perhaps the most important secular painting from medieval Europe, decorates the chamber of the old ruling Council of Nine to remind them of the effects of their government. The bulky zebra-striped Gothic Duomo (cathedral) is free except from August 23 to October 2, when the stunning patchwork of inlaid and etched marble panels carpeting the floor is uncovered (E5.50/$5.05). On other dates, a few panels are always left visible, and most of the cathedral is free (except the Libreria Piccolomini, an antechamber lushly frescoed by Pinturricchio and his young assistant Raphael; E1.50/$1.40). At the duomo's crossing are a chapel by Baroque master Bernini and a densely carved pulpit by Gothic geniuses Nicola and Giovanni Pisano. The brick vaults under the massive sixteenth-century Medici fortress, once a symbol of Florence's dominance, now host the Enoteca Italica Permanente, a sort of national wine museum where you can sample Italy's best vintages for E1.30-E2.60 ($1.20-$2.40) per glass. Siena boasts many more sights and museums, but most (save the churches) charge admission. The city offers a multitude of cumulative tickets for various grab-bags of sights; there are many permutations, but the E15 ($13.75) one gets you into pretty much everything. Sienese sleeps Amazingly, one of the best hotel deals, Cannon d'Oro, is on the main drag, where its big rooms mix some nice antiques with functional pieces (Via Montanini 28; 0577-44-321, svpm.it, E52-E85/$47.75-$78 per double room; breakfast E6/$5.50). Tiny Hotel Bernini is a home away from home. The nine guest rooms are fitted with a rummage sale of antiques set on patterned tile floors, and are only separated from the family's half of the apartment by a curtain. Nadia will let you onto the roof terrace overlooking St. Catherine's house, and Mauro often serenades guests with his accordion (Via della Sapienza 15; 0577-289-047, albergobernini.com, E82/$73.50 per double; E62/$56.90 without bath; breakfast E6.70/$6.15). A bit institutional but remarkably cheap, Alma Domus is run by nuns who unfortunately insist upon an 11:30 p.m. curfew. The basic rooms lack amenities save A/C in a few, and the phones can only receive calls (though this may change). The best have balconies overlooking the striped Duomo across a wide gully (Via Camporeggio 37; 0577-44-177, E65/$59.65 per double room; breakfast E6/$5.50). Sienese spreads Next door to St. Catherine's house, the brick floor of cozy Osteria La Chiacchera ("the chatterbox") is scattered with little wood tables crowded with locals. The desserts are stupendous (Costa di Sant'Antonio 4; 0577-280-631, E11/$10 per full meal). Although it's just two doors off Siena's main square, the down-home trattoria La Torre, its kitchen open to the dining room and turning out homemade pastas and traditional Tuscan dishes, hasn't been discovered by tourists (Via Salicotto 7-9; 0577-287-548, E17/$15.60 for an extensive meal). Finally, a big splurge: Simone Romi's service makes the single room of Castelvecchio feel intimate, and Mauro Lombardini's skill in the kitchen brings forth a daily menu of creative Tuscan cuisine based on the freshest ingredients. This classy level of taste, atmosphere, and service usually costs three times as much (Via Castelvecchio 65; 0577-49-586, E25/$23). San Gimignano The poster child of Tuscan hilltowns, San Gimignano is a minuscule medieval metropolis with over a dozen stone towers bristling above vineyards that produce a tart, straw-colored white wine ranked among Italy's best. Try to spend the night: The tour bus hordes disappear at 5:30 p.m., the town comes back to life, and the medieval air rekindles in stone-clad alleys. The best view of the skyline is from the ruined ramparts of La Rocca, a tumbledown medieval fortress now planted with a tiny town park. Back on the main piazza, you can climb past the lovely small civic museum of paintings-including rare, racy, fourteenth-century secular frescoes of a wedding night-to the top of the town's tallest tower, the Torre Grossa (E6.20/$5.45), for a postcard panorama of patchwork fields. Every inch of the interior of the Collegiata (main church, E3.10/$2.85) is swathed in colorful Gothic and early Renaissance frescoes that illustrate, comic strip-style, biblical scenes for the once-illiterate masses. At the far end of town sits the little-visited thirteenth-century Sant'Agostino church, preserving gorgeous fifteenth-century frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli and Sebastiano Mainardi. The tourist office sells a cumulative ticket for E7.50 ($6.90) that gets you into all the main sights in town (except for the privately run Torture Museum; E7.75/$7.10) including those mentioned above, plus the modest Museums of Sacred Art and of Archaeology (Etruscan and Roman remains), the Spezeria di Santa Fino historic pharmacy, and the new Modern Art Museum, which features rotating exhibits. San Gimignano digs No hotel in San Gimignano is cheap. The best you can do is the rather nice Bel Soggiorno (Via San Giovanni 91; 0577-940-375, hotelbelsoggiorno.it, E75/$68.85 per double room, E80/$73.45 with valley views; breakfast included). The secret to saving money here is affittacamere (rental rooms). They can be hit-or-miss, but some are quite lovely, and they start as low as E30 ($27.50). The tourist office gives lists (Le Vecchie Mura restaurant, below, even rents a couple at E49/$45); get a sneak peak at several through sangimignano.com. You can book most through the local agency Associazione Strutture Extralberghiere (Piazza della Cisterna 6; 0577-943-111). San Gimignano dining The budget trick in San Gimignano is to get off the tourist-choked main street. Near the Porta San Matteo end of town sits Osteria delle Catene, a medieval vault with modern art and lighting fixtures where locals gather to enjoy everything from mixed meat-and-cheese platters to full Tuscan meals accompanied by excellent Italian wines (Via Mainardi 18; 0577-941-966, E18/$16.50 for a multicourse repast). The pricier Le Vecchie Mura serves hearty local fare at long communal tables under brick-vaulted eighteenth-century horse stalls, with a lovely summer terrace outside atop the city walls (Via Piandornella 15; 0577-940-270, E25/$22.95). Montepulciano Life in this ancient hill town revolves around the powerful, versatile Vino Nobile, one of Italy's mightiest red wines. For over 1,200 years, this "noble wine" has been aged and bottled in the wine cellars under Montepulciano's Renaissance palazzi. Many of these warrens of stony rooms and tunnels carved into the tufa bedrock are open to visitors, offering free samples of wine, grappa, and sometimes cured meats, cheeses, and breads produced by the vineyards' farms. Plus you'll never find a better price on bottles of Italy's top wines to take home. The free smorgasbords concentrate along Via Gracchiano nel Corso and around Piazza Grande; four stand out. Ercolani/Pulcino, at Via Gracchiano nel Corso 80, is the most commercial, with archaeological bits and an Etruscan tomb displayed in its cellars, and it boasts the most free samples. Its neighbor Avignonesi, at no. 91, is the classiest cantina in town; no cellars to explore, but a bar to tipple gratis from one of Italy's oldest and most-respected wineries. Classic Cantina del Redi, installed in the multistory foundations of Palazzo Ricci on Via Ricci, stacks huge barrels in a series of towering narrow brick vaults connected by steep underground staircases. At Gattavecchi, Via Collazzi 22, the "shop" where you enter is just a large storage closet off the bottling room, but you can always rustle up a friendly face to pour a sample and flip on the lights in the most wonderfully creepy, moldy cellar tunnels in town. To connect the free booze and nibbles at either end of Montepulciano, follow the winding main street (it goes by numerous names, all ending in "Corso") lined with an astonishing number of Renaissance palazzi, including Palazzo Bucelli (no. 73), whose foundation is a collage of 2,700-year-old Etruscan funerary urns. The street climbs steadily, often steeply, to the top of the hill and Piazza Grande, studded with Renaissance palaces designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder; a duomo that's filled with early fifteenth-century sculptures and a golden altarpiece by Taddeo di Bartoldo; and Michelozzo's Palazzo Comunale, a fourteenth-century travertine copy of Florence's old city hall. Wend your way inside, past civic offices and overstuffed filing cabinets, to climb the crenellated tower for fantastic countryside vistas (free). Just outside this end of town sits an exercise in geometrically precise Renaissance architecture, Antonio da Sangallo the Elder's celebrated Tempio di San Biagio, a travertine temple to classical models built on a grassy lawn. Montepulciano hotels Montepulciano has some great little family-run hotels. One of my favorites is Giorgio and Ivana Caroti's Meubl, Il Riccio, with functionally comfortable rooms over the mosaics studio founded by Giorgio's father (Via Talosa 21; 0578-757-713, ilriccio.net, E77.50/$71.15 per double room; breakfast E8/$7.35). Marcella rents a trio of simple rooms without bath above her restaurant Cittino that feel just like crashing in your Italian auntie's spare bedroom-one room even squeezes in a bunk bed for families (Vicolo della Via Nuova 2/Via Voltaia nel Corso, 0578-757-335, E34/$31.20 per double room; breakfast ... la carte). Call ahead so the shopkeeper-owner can open the door of Affitacamere Bellavista. Rooms lack character-just a sagging bed, wooden table, and chair-but they do offer great valley views, especially the 180 degrees of countryside from no. 6's tiny terrace. Avoid viewless no. 5 (Via Ricci 25; 0578-716-341, E49/$45 per double room; no breakfast offered). Montepulciano dining Sadly, Tuscany's famous pappardelle al chingiale (sheet-like noodles in wild boar sauce) is often made with frozen farm-raised boar, but the pappardelle at Montepulciano's down-home Trattoria Diva & Matteo is so genuine I once bit into a pellet of buckshot (Via Gracchiano nel Corso 92; 0578-716-951, E23/$20.10 per multicourse feast). At a more modest price, Marcella makes everyone feel at home at Cittino, recommended as a hotel above. The dining room opens off her living room, and she'll bring out a tray of the pastas handmade that morning for you (E20/$18.35 per full meal). You can get great simple dishes and platters of salamis and cheeses from the owner's farm at the tavernlike Osteria dell'Acquacheta (Via Teatro 22; 0578-758-443, E25/$22.95). Since 1868 everyone from Pirandello to Fellini has made Art Nouveau CaffS Polizano their Montepulciano home-away-from-home for cappuccino and panini; try to snag a table with picture-window valley views (Via Voltaia nel Corso 27-29; 0578-758-615, E14/$12.85). Traveling around Lush hills and countless tiny towns to explore make Tuscany one of the best places to splurge on a rental car-groups of three won't spend much more on a car than on separate train and bus tickets; for groups of four, a car is usually a savings. It's always cheapest to book a few weeks in advance with the major U.S.-based companies, though specialists Auto Europe (888/223-5555, autoeurope.com), Europe by Car (800/223-1516, 212/581-3040 in New York City, 800/252-9401 in California, europebycar.com), and Kemwell (800/678-0678, kemwell.com) sometimes underbid the likes of Hertz and Avis. Lucca lies on the Florence-Viareggio train line; it's also a short hop from Pisa, which is a major stop on the main coastal line from Rome. Siena's train station (on a direct line from Florence; from Rome, switch at Chiusi/Chianciano Terme) is two miles outside town, requiring a city bus to run you to the center. For once, taking a bus from Florence makes more sense, as buses tend to be more frequent, slightly faster, and stop in town. There are also a half-dozen daily buses from Rome's Tiburtina station. Siena's bus station is on Piazza San Domenico; the ticket office is under the church's right flank. Montepulciano is tricky. There is a Montepulciano Staz stop on a local train line from Siena, but it's way out in the countryside and not well connected to town. Instead, get off at the Chiusi/Chianciano Terme stop, where the Siena line meets the main Rome-Florence line; from here, a local bus meets most incoming trains. San Gimignano is the most frustrating. First you have to get a bus or a train (from Siena direct, from Florence through Empoli) to Poggibonsi, from which 19 buses (only two on Sundays) trundle up to San Gimignano. For Web information on these destinations, visit lucca.turismo.toscana.it, siena.turismo.toscana.it, sangimignano.com, or comune.montepulciano.siena.it. Getting to Tuscany No flight from the United States flies direct to Tuscany, though many airlines will connect you through a European gateway to the international airports in Pisa or Florence. But it's usually cheaper just to fly into Rome and then take the train. An even more frugal, but more complicated, alternative is to get any low fare to London (Europe's cheapest gateway) and book a separate ticket on no-frills Ryanair (ryanair.ie) to Pisa for about o50 ($73.40) round-trip. When calling Italy from the United States, dial 011-39 before the number. Within Italy, just dial the numbers as they appear here.

Riding the Rails from Anchorage to Seward

The glacier that has just come into view looks like a giant wave spilling down the face of the mountain, a tsunami of ice that seems ready to crush anything in its path, including us. But fortunately, the glacier isn't really going anywhere, or not very quickly anyway. According to our guide, an excruciatingly chipper woman named Candace, the glacier is, in fact, moving. Backwards. Like the vast majority of Alaska's glaciers, Spencer is retreating. So needless to say there's no danger as we pass. Named for the poor chap who fell into a crevasse there in 1914, the Spencer Glacier is the first of several we'll see along our journey. This is glacier country, after all. There are more than 2,000 of them in the state, according to the Bruce Molnia, a glacial geologist with the United States Geological Survey, even though there is about fifty percent less ice here than there was 10,000 years ago, during the last ice age. We are traveling by train through the heart of Southwest Alaska, riding the "Coastal Classic" from Anchorage to Seward. My wife and I agree that the ride is an impressive value at just $98 per person. (The Coastal Classic from Anchorage to Seward departs Anchorage daily at 6:45 am from May 15 to Sept. 13, 2004.) The train ride is a mere 120 miles, and takes just four and a half hours, but it is without question one of the most beautiful routes in the country. This is truly an excellent way to see Alaska, to gape at its awesome scale, its epic beauty. Any cube-dwelling city-slickers looking for a drastic change of scenery in their lives could hardly do better than coming to the 49th state. Our trip officially began in Anchorage, where we spent several days enjoying festivals celebrating the summer solstice on June 21, the longest day of the year in the Northern hemisphere. On the morning of our departure, we were up at 5 am, and made our way to the spartan, but efficient, Anchorage station, where, according to Tim Thompson of the Alaskan Railroad, trains have one of the best reputations in the country for running on time. "We're very proud of that fact," he says. A fact that is pretty amazing if you consider the size of the state of Alaska. Getting here was easy. We booked our United Airlines flight several weeks in advance from New York to Anchorage through Orbitz for $500 per person. Several airlines, including Alaska Airlines, occasionally run Web specials to Anchorage, so keep your eyes out for them. Also, it's significantly cheaper if you fly from the West Coast. Along with scores of tourist-focused families and Seward residents heading home, we boarded the Coastal Classic, a gleaming blue and yellow chain of railroad cars, cars that appeared so well maintained, they'd make a New York City transit worker seethe with envy. The train offers reserved seats and a dining car, but there is also a dome viewing car with a kind of sunroof on steroids, that allows riders to gawk and snap pictures with panoramic abandon. Shortly after leaving Anchorage, the train passes through the Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge. Also known as Potter's Marsh, the area is teeming with wildlife. We spot thousands of migratory birds gathered in broad ponds and see several Moose loping around the edge of the water. We come upon the resort town of Girdwood and then chug further down the Southeast edge of the Turnagain Arm, a broad mirror of grey water that forms a branch of the Cook Inlet and experiences the world's second highest tides at over 30 feet. The Arm's name comes from an 1778 expedition led by Captain James Cook. Cook had entered the arm during his search for the Northwest Passage, but upon reaching the dead end of the arm, he was forced to "turn again", leaving it with the somewhat awkward-sounding name. The train we are on has recently been through several major changes. Four years ago, the Alaskan Railroad Corporation, which is owned by the State of Alaska, decided to improve the line to make it more inviting to tourists. They spent almost $5 million restoring the cars and adding dome viewing cars. The result is a remarkably appealing rail adventure that has an almost Disneyesque feel to it. In a good way. "They [the Alaska Rail company] really does a phenomenal job catering to tourists," says train buff John Coombs who runs alaskarail.org, a private site dedicated to the Alaska rail. "They've done a terrific job restoring it. When the sun is shining, [the Anchorage to Seward route] is probably the most beautiful ride in the country." While glaciers and rivers are a treat, the wildlife seems to capture the attention of our car's passengers, particularly the children. Already we have seen Dall sheep scaling the rocky mountainside with balletic ease. Further on, we see a baby brown bear sneak into the brush and a six-foot tall Moose munching grass next to a shallow stream. Several bald eagles soar overhead, easily identifiable from the white shock of their head feathers. Of course, we're lucky. The early explorers to this part of the country were deprived of such a glorious (and comfortable) way to see the Alaskan countryside. The railroad wasn't finished until 1923, when President Warren Harding drove in the famous golden spike near Anchorage, thus opening up easy passage to Seward, once a lonely fishing village. Since then, traffic has grown impressively. Last year, over 400,000 passengers rode on the Alaskan railroad. We pass several other glaciers along the way, including the Bartlett and Trail Glaciers, each of which Candace brings to our attention with her inimitable charm. We climb a mountain via sweeping switchbacks that take the train back and forth up the mountainside and which must have been an engineering nightmare. We pass Kenai Lake, whose turquoise blue color comes from suspended glacial silt in the water, but whose hues seem unreal. After four and a half hours that pass like two, we arrive in the town of Seward on Resurrection Bay. It is a magnificent summer's day and the town is gearing up for the famous 4th of July celebration a few days away, when the population will double and the Mt. Marathon race will pit extreme athletes against one another to race to the top of the race's namesake. Even though it is our destination, Seward is known as the "gateway" to Alaska because it is here that the railroad "officially" starts. The town is named in honor of William H. Seward who, in one of the sweetest deals in American history, orchestrated the purchase of Alaska from the Russians in 1867 for $7.2 million, or little more than two cents an acre. Having reached our destination, we step off the Coastal Classic and made our way to the charming Van Gilder Hotel, where we booked a spacious room for $150 per night. We feel distinctly saddened that the trip was over. There is nothing like traveling by train. Of course, the feeling is short-lived, eclipsed by the excitement that a new stage of our trip was just beginning.