The Latest Revolution in Paris Lodgings

By Paul Varmuza
June 4, 2005
Largely unnoticed by U.S. visitors, two dozen low-cost but modern and amenity-packed hotels have sprouted in Paris. They're called "Ibis"

C'est possible? A crop of sleek new economy hotels in one of Europe's most notorious graveyards for vacation budgets? With good, clean rooms as cheap as $46 a night? Mais oui. Though you'll find them in almost no American guidebooks, a slew of slickly modern (for the most part) budget hotels called Ibis have stealthily emerged within the city limits of Paris, most of them near metro (subway) stops a five-minute ride from the Seine. Operated by Accor Hotels (800/221-4542), which owns Motel 6 and Red Roof Inns in the States, Ibis' Parisian branches now total several thousand rooms in 57 individual properties, of which 20 are in the central city and 37 more in the suburbs beyond the peripherique ring road. Taking a leaf from les americains, the cookie-cutter Ibises have become the McDonald's of European budget lodgings (486 such properties are scattered across the continent) by taking the guesswork out of finding reliable modern digs with certain minimum features: private bathroom, TV, phone, and room service (though not always air-conditioning).

Rates in Paris (with the exception of one property) run 330-545 francs ($46-$78) per double (singles just slightly less)--not including another $5.40 for the buffet breakfast and $10 for three-course meals. All properties have elevators, most have bars, and many have restaurants, as well as 24-hour hot snack service; locations are in good yet relatively less expensive neighborhoods.

Drawbacks? Attractive but tiny, rather clumsily designed rooms with papier-thin walls; severely limited storage space; bathrooms not easily maneuvered by the "full-figured" among us; lack of frills like shampoo and desks with actual drawers; and service sometimes closer to traditional Parisian hauteur and sullenness than to the perky "customer-is-always-right" approach of, say, America's Microtel. And if you want local color and charm, find a more traditional petit hotel down the boulevard (our recommendations for that in a soon-to-come issue).

But with that in mind, and abetted by one of the most impressive exchange rates in years (recently around 7 francs to the dollar) and info on the 20 key "inside-the-beltway" Ibises, you can have even a modest budget singin' on the Seine.

Right Bank

Ibis Gare de L'Est  165 rooms with air-conditioning, some for nonsmokers/disabled; bar, restaurant, on-premises parking; single $60, double $66. A couple of blocks from the grand Gare de l'Est and Gare du Nord train stations, this yellow, eight-floor updated version of classic nineteenth-century Parisian design (complete with mansard roofs) is walkable to many shops and restaurants in its workaday neighborhood. 197-199 rue La Fayette, 10th arrondissement; tel. 44-65-70-00, fax 44-65-70-07.

Ibis Gare L'Est/Boulevard de Strasbourg  68 AC rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, parking; single $64, double $68. An early twentieth-century building with a relaxing lobby, it's on a quiet little lane named for the atmospheric fifteenth-century stone church around the corner. 6 rue Saint Laurent, 10th arr.; 40-38-05-05, fax 42-05-71-16.

Ibis Lafayette  70 AC rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; single $62, double $69. Intimate in a 1990s kind of way, it's got a cute little reception/bar area, a charming yard with ivy-covered walls, trees, tables, and chairs. Or hang out with Parisians of all ages across the street in the petite park adjoining the imposing, neoclassical St. Vincent de Paul. 122 rue La Fayette, 10th arr.; 45-23-27-27, fax 42-46-73-79.

Ibis Republique  67 rooms, nonsmoking; bar; single $62, double $66. Steps from the place de la Republique and an easy stroll to Chatelet-Les Halles and the Op,ra, the handsome gray town house dating from 1896 mixes six floors of standard-issue rooms with local flavor like a genteel white foyer and stone vaults in the basement breakfast room. 9 rue Leon Jouhaux, 10th arr.; 42-40-40-11-12, fax 42-40-11-12.

Ibis Jemmapes Louis Blanc  49 rooms, disabled; restaurant; single $60, double $67. Tucked onto a very quiet side street near a canal and lined with modern apartment houses, the eight-story, sand-color older building has been renovated beyond recognition. It's unexceptional but certainly pleasant, and a short hop to busy boulevard La Fayette; for peace and quiet, a great choice. 12 rue Louis Blanc, 10th arr.; 42-01-21-21, fax 42-08-21-40.

Ibis Bastille  305 rooms, nonsmoking, disabled; bar, restaurant, parking; single $64, double $71. Punctuated by porthole-style bathroom windows, it's an easy walk to place de la Bastille with its mod performance hall, and to ritzy place des Vosges and the medieval Marais. Nearby is a very happening (and late) nightlife along rue de la Roquette and rue de Lappe, as well as neat street markets along boulevard Richard Lenoir. 15 rue Breguet, 11th arr.; 49-29-20-20, fax 49-29-20-30.

Ibis Menilmontant Pere-Lachaise  31 rooms, nonsmoking; bar; single $61, double $66. On a side street in a low-key working-class area-once the stomping ground of Maurice Chevalier and Edith Piaf and now enjoying a retro resurgence among cool Parisians - this yellow Ibis is small and friendly. And necrophiles will dig the nearby Pere-Lachaise cemetery, one of the world's most beautiful, where you can commune with the likes of Colette, Jim Morrison, and Oscar Wilde. Rue la Folie Regnault, 11th arr.; 53-36-82-92, fax 53-36-82-99.

Ibis Bercy Expo  195 AC rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; parking, bar, restaurant; rooms $60. Fans of modern architecture will like this sleek sandstone-faced property, next to a huge movie multiplex and a food trade-show hall (often open to the public). Even more interesting is the newly restored thirteenth-century village of Bercy, its former wine warehouses hosting shops, restaurants, and the Club Med World entertainment complex. 19 place des Vins de France, 12th arr.; 49-28-06-06, fax 49-28-06-20.

Ibis Gare de Lyon  119 AC rooms; nonsmoking; parking; single $69, double $71. Among the grand town houses along this big, bustling thoroughfare, this one's a bit plainer than most, yet still fits right in. A nice bonus: the backyard with tables/chairs and 20 rooms that look out on it. Locally, don't miss picturesque little side streets like rue Cremieux. 41-43 ave. Ledru Rollin, 12th arr.; 53-02-30-30, fax 53-02-30-31.

Ibis Porte de Clichy  700 AC rooms; bar, restaurant, parking; single $62, double $76-$90. The biggest and newest Ibis in Paris is hidden off the avenue up in the northwest corner of town, not too far from Montmartre. Big with tour groups, the 15-year-old, nine-floor behemoth taken into the fold just last year offers three-star amenities at two-star prices, including several bars and restaurants and a swimming pool and fitness center (though for the latter you pay $25-$55 extra). 163 bis, avenue de Clichy, 17th arr.; 40-25-20-20, fax 40-25-26-00.

Ibis Montmartre  326 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, restaurant; single $64, double $71. Attached to one of Accor's (more upscale) Mercure hotels and wedged between a parking garage and a shopping mall just outside romantic Montmartre, its public spaces are plastered with murals evoking "olde Paris." A good "big hotel" option for folks wanting walkability to the famous artists' quarter, Sacre Cour, the Moulin Rouge, and such. 5 rue Caulaincourt, 18th arr.; 55-30-18-00, fax 55-30-19-18.

Ibis Sacre Coeur  68 rooms, nonsmoking; bar, parking; single $55, double $60. A more intimate choice with an excellent location amid the tourist buses and tchotchke shops lining the boulevard just below Sacr, Cour and Montmartre, this nineteenth-century town house boasts nice views of the skyline from some of its ninth-floor rooms. And of course there are the Pigalle porn parlors right down the street, if that's your bag. 100 blvd. Rochechouart, 18th arr.; 46-06-99-17, fax 42-55-42-26.

Ibis La Villette  284 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, restaurant, parking; rooms $46. On a bend in the idyllic Ourq Canal in Paris's extreme northeast, it's funkier looking than most Ibises, with its blues, yellows, and vaguely Deco-looking touches. Why stay way up here? The groovy multiethnic (especially African and Sephardic Jewish) neighborhood and the futuristic Science City, with its unmissable "geode" gleaming like a giant pinball. 31-35 quai de l'Oise, 19th arr.; 40-38-58-00, fax 40-38-04-04.

Left Bank

Ibis Cambronne Tour Eiffel  523 rooms, nonsmoking; bar, restaurant, parking; single $65, double $72. Just off the cobblestone place Cambronne, eight floors of modern white tile are a little jarring amid gracious nineteenth-century structures. But one of Paree's biggest Ibises is nicely situated not just for Gustave Eiffel's famous phallic symbol (with its new sparkly lights, switched on nightly for ten minutes each hour), but also the Invalides, the Musee d'Orsay, and lots more. 2 rue Cambronne, 15th arr.; 40-61-22-22, fax 40-61-21-21.

Ibis Gare Montparnasse  30 AC rooms; nonsmoking/disabled; rooms $78. At the corner of two major tree-lined thoroughfares within sight of the Montparnasse skyscraper, this facade's stripes and mirrored glass stand out among the more traditional architecture of a nabe hopping with businesspeople by day and bar/restaurantgoers by night. Oh, and if you're in the mood for a browse through French Foreign Legion memorabilia, or military doodads dating back to the Battle of the Marne, duck into the surplus store right around the corner. 71 blvd. de Vaugirard, 15th arr.; 43-20-89-12, fax 43-22-77-71.

Ibis Maine Montparnasse 102 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; parking; single $58, double $65. On a small street in a low-key residential area sprinkled with mom-and-pop restaurants and shops, two early-twentieth-century buildings were painted red and beige and turned into one Ibis (a couple of whose top-floor rooms have terraces). The nearby arrondissement town hall is like a smaller version of the imposing Hotel de Ville; two slightly morbid but highly worthwhile sights within striking distance are the catacombs and the Montparnasse Cemetery (say hi to celebs like Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir). 160 rue du Chxteau, 14th arr.; 43-22-00-09, fax 43-20-21-78.

Ibis Albesia  264 AC rooms, disabled; bar, restaurant, parking; single $60, double $65. For les shopaholiques (apologies to the Academie Francaise), have we got an Ibis for you: it's just off Rue d'Alesia, crammed with stores both cheap and cher - and you can even snag discontinued haute couture for a fraction of the price. The hotel's big, its standard beige facade tarted up with mirrored glass rising from the flag-adorned entrance. Nearby, don't miss the 1861 St. Pierre de Montrouge church, its interior done in "primitive" Roman style. 49 rue des Plantes, 14th arr.; 40-44-50-51, fax 40-44-53-44.

Ibis Brancion "Expo"  71 rooms, some AC, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, parking; rooms $57. Blending in perfectly among the apartment blocks of an outlying neighborhood just inside the p,riph,rique, it's a great choice for joggers and others appreciating a break from the hustle and bustle of central Paris: right across the street is the lovely Parc Brassens, which contains an antique book market and the respected Sylvia Montfort Theater. 105 rue Brancion, 15th arr.; 56-56-62-30, fax 56-56-62-31.

Ibis Place d'Italie  58 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; parking; single $62, double $66. Joining two other two-star hotels on a very peaceful residential street, this six-floor affair fronted by gray tiles, steel, and glass has a whiff of the Bauhaus. The place d'Italie area itself is tres diverse, from the stores (including a mammoth shopping mall) of avenue d'Italie to attractions like the Botanical Garden and a natural history museum. 25 ave. Stephen Pichon, 13th arr.; 44-24-94-85, fax 44-24-20-70.

Ibix Italie Tolbiac 60 rooms; nonsmoking/disabled; bar; single $60, double $62. Below place d'Italie and several blocks off bustling avenue d'Italie on a quiet leafy street next to a "Zen boutique," it's convenient to the Quartier Chinois (Chinatown), which though dinkier even than Washington, D.C.'s still has some neat restaurants, shops, and even a temple with an impressive Buddha statue. On a more Christian note, check out nearby St. Anne de la Maison Blanche, with its soaring nave, star-spangled barrel vault, and gorgeous stained glass. 177 rue de Tolbiac, 13th arr.; 45-80-16-60, fax 45-80-95-80.

Birds on the wire

Before the phone numbers in this article, dial 011-33-1. You can also book or get a directory of properties worldwide at 800/221-4542 in the U.S. or ibishotels.com.

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Madison, Wisconsin

In recent issues of Budget Travel, we've profiled two top college towns - Cambridge (Harvard, MIT) and Amherst (Amherst, Smith, UMass, Mt. Holyoke, Hampshire) - for brainy budget holidays suited to the public at large. Our criteria: a sparkling university atmosphere; extra-low student-level prices for rooms and food; and lots of stimulating activities, performances, and attractions. Now, the series' first foray into the Midwest takes us to southern Wisconsin and the dynamic town of Madison. With a handsome lake-country setting, an active arts scene, and the storied University of Wisconsin (17 Nobel and 23 Pulitzer Prize-winners), Madison indulges both cerebral and cheapskate instincts, even in midsummer when many other university towns go into mothballs. Also the state capital, it's filled with an array of intrigues, accommodations, and eateries that fit a pauper's budget - or at least a student's. And because its college is paid for with tax dollars, many major events, attractions, and even some classes are absolutely free and open to everyone. Upon arrival, your very first stop should be the Greater Madison Convention and Visitors Bureau (615 E. Washington Ave., 800/373-6376, visitmadison.com) for free brochures and maps about museums, restaurants, concerts, and other amusements. Next up is the even more valuable UW-Madison Campus Assistance and Visitor Center, known as "the Red Gym" (716 Langdon St., 608/263-2400, visit.wisc.edu), where you orient yourself with a free campus tour (3 p.m. weekdays, noon weekends) and get a list of free campus events. At most campus buildings and at shops in town, you'll find several free publications listing free or cheap events - always too many for one person to handle. Check The Daily Cardinal, a student paper, for a list of lectures, films, concerts, and discussion groups over the next few days. (Yes, nonstudents can attend most events, usually for free.) One week last October, those included seminars on topics ranging from molecular studies to Spanish Roma, and political lectures from visiting professors and nervy filmmaker Michael Moore. Other free schedules appear in The Badger Herald (another student rag) or Isthmus (Madison's version of New York's The Village Voice). Note, too, that Madison is becoming famous as a breeding ground for comic writing: The Onion, a nationally celebrated mock newspaper (distributed free) originated here, and it also publishes real event schedules. Nice wheels Spend a few minutes in any part of Madison and the city's love affair with bicycles quickly becomes evident. There are miles of lanes dedicated to two-wheel traffic, as well as plenty of bike racks. You can even fill flabby tires for free at the Memorial Union student center (next to the Red Gym). In anything nearing nice weather (be warned that January and February are famously frigid), do as the locals do. Budget Bicycle Center (1230 Regent St., 608/251-8413) rents ten-speeds for $7 per day. Most action in Madison centers on State Street, a one-mile pedestrian mall linking Capitol Square and campus that's lined with pubs, coffee shops, bookstores, and restaurants. Biking is easier than maneuvering by car, and there are plenty of scenic spots to pedal nearby. Since it's situated on a series of hills riding an isthmus between Lakes Mendota and Monona, Madison is blessed with surprising natural beauty. Campus, Capitol, & between The University of Wisconsin's main campus stretches over 930 acres along lovely Lake Mendota. The prettiest spot on campus is probably behind the Memorial Union, where visitors plop down on an extensive outdoor pavilion to enjoy a fine view of the lake and sometimes free music. When colder months come, the action turns to the Rathskellar, a German-style cafeteria/alehouse inside the Union that also hosts free concerts and events (look for posters or ask at the Red Gym). Among other campus-affiliated spots free and open to the public are the Elvehjem Museum of Art (800 University Ave., 608/263-2246) and its 15,500 exhibits (from 2300 B.C. to modern times, including an Andy Warhol print of Marilyn Monroe); the Geology Museum (1215 W. Dayton St., 608/262-2399), where you can eye the skeleton of a 33-foot-long duck-billed dinosaur; and the Arboretum (1207 Seminole Hwy., 608/263-7888), a 1,240-acre preserve that's heaven for hiking and cross-country skiing. Campus libraries are also free for visitors. You can even sit in on classes, even in summer. Have in mind what kind of class you'd like to attend, and someone at the Red Gym will find a match. In bigger classes (which tend to be straightforward lectures like Biology 101), no one blinks when a stranger shows up. For small seminars (the more disciplined stuff, usually), it's a good idea to get an OK ahead of time. If you have something specific in mind, don't barge into a classroom unannounced, but ask the Visitor Center to contact the department that interests you. There are plenty of free amusements around the State Capitol Building, starting with the impressive brass, glass, and Italian marble building itself, which boasts America's only granite dome (six free tours daily; 608/266-0382). Across from the Capitol, you can visit the Wisconsin Historical Museum (30 N. Carroll St., 608/264-6555) for a brush-up on America's frontier-era history. The Madison Art Center (211 State St., 608/257-0158) and the Henry Vilas Zoo (702 S. Randall Ave., 608/266-4732) don't cost a dime either. As for live music, you'll find free concerts most Wednesday nights on Capitol Square throughout the summer. During the school year, $8 (seniors/students $6) will get you into one of the Faculty Concert Series shows at the Mills Concert Hall (455 N. Park St., 608/263-9485). If you're more of a drama fan, the Bartell Theatre (113 E. Mifflin St., 608/294-0740) plays host to regional troupes and locally produced works. Tickets normally range from $5 to $15, and you can often see rehearsal performances for free. Madison prides itself on its many literary associations, with nearly 20 bookstores in the heart of the isthmus and a handful of best-selling authors who call the city home (among them The Deep End of the Ocean scribe Jacquelyn Mitchard). Canterbury Booksellers (315 W. Gorham St., 608/258-8899) has free readings by authors every week. Lodgings Madison hotel rates fluctuate with the weather (high on summer weekends, cheaper in deep winter), but be advised that every bed in town can be booked solid months ahead for certain events. Watch out particularly for graduation (mid-May) and home football games (schedule: uwbadgers.com), when you may pay at least 25 percent more than usual, if you find availability at all. Between graduation and mid-August, visitors can not only pretend they're students, but also live as the students do. When students vacate for the summer, privately owned dormitory-style properties open to short-term renters. Two such facilities are The Towers (502 N. Frances St., 608/257-0701), offering suites with private bath for $45 per night-four people can fit into two sets of bunk-beds; and The Langdon (126 Langdon St., 608/257-8841), charging a flat $28 per night for a dorm room with two single beds. The cheapest year-round digs in town can be found just two blocks from the Capitol at the HI-Madison Hostel (141 S. Butler St., 608/441-0144, hiayh.org). A big, slightly grungy old house, it has bunk-bed dorm rooms for $19 per bed ($16 for Hostelling International members) and private rooms with private bath sleeping up to four for a paltry $38 per night ($35 members). The few chain hotels downtown regularly run over $100 per night, but two independently owned properties offer reasonable rates and good locations. The Ivy Inn (2355 University Ave., 877/489-4661) has clean, comfortable rooms for singles starting at $71; doubles $81. The University Inn (441 N. Frances St., 608/285-8040) sits at the corner of State Street and has rates that range from $52 for two in winter, or $99 on summer weekends. Venture a few miles away from downtown Madison for wider (and slightly cheaper) options. Seven miles east of the Capitol (near I-90 and I-94), you'll find nearly a dozen chain hotels that start at about $40 per night (such as Red Roof Inn, 4830 Hayes Rd., 608/241-1787). Even some apartment complexes rent on a weekly or nightly basis, particularly in the summer. Countryside Apartments (2801 Coventry Trail, 608/271-0101) rents furnished one-bedrooms for $79 per night or $350 per week. Madison Meals This may be the heartland, but the dining selection is neither flat nor boring. Madison even has two restaurants specializing in Himalayan cuisine - on the same block (Himal Chuli and Chautara, at 318 and 334 State St., respectively). For Chicago-style bratwurst ($2.50) and Midwestern frat boy atmosphere, try State Street Brats (603 State St.) Stop by Vientiane Palace (151 W. Gorham) for $4.95 lunches laden with portions of spicy Lao-Thai food big enough for two. If you make your way down State Street and still don't find anything, cross Lake Street onto campus (near Library Mall) for the many food stands where $3 to $5 buys you a heaping plate of Cuban, East African, Jamaican, or Chinese grub. All-you-can-eat campus cafeterias are also accessible, and simply charge visitors double ($6 to $8) the regular student prices. Before you leave, you've got to taste (and hear) the Wisconsin specialty - cheese curds - clumps of cheese eaten before they're pressed into blocks (get some for $2 per bag at any market or at House of Wisconsin Cheese, 107 State St., 608/255-5204). At their freshest, cheese curds squeak audibly when you chew. So in between those free lectures and concerts, pick up a few and by all means, squeak away.

Five Places to Elope

The cost - and aggravation - of planning a wedding is enough to send some couples off the deep end. Or on the road. Eloping, while not for everyone, has several advantages over full-blown weddings. First among them is savings. The average U.S. couple spends $19,104 on their "conventional" wedding, according to a Bride's magazine survey published in 2000. We eloped. In fact, we tied the knot ten times while researching our book Beyond Vegas: 25 Exotic Wedding and Elopement Destinations Around the World. We've concluded that a large number of destinations are not only wedding-and-elopement-friendly (few bureaucratic hurdles) but also tasteful, exotic, and inexpensive. Here are five of our favorites, ranging from cheapest to most expensive, with contact information and some legal details to get you started down the same road. The estimated cost of each elopement (the basic expense of getting there, paying for a license and officiant, and lodging) is less than $3,000 for two - cheaper than the catering bill for a conventional wedding reception. All prices, to repeat, include round-trip air for two people, the cost of the ceremony, and lodging for a short honeymoon. Nevada ($1,045 per couple for five nights, including airfare) The mountains surrounding Lake Tahoe (airport: Reno, NV) are prime eloping terrain. Their eastern edge spills from California into Nevada, where marriage laws are famously elopement-friendly. A driver's license and $50 are all that's required to get a license at the Washoe County Clerk's Office (775/328-3260). Once you have that, there is no waiting period. Though you're on your own in finding a minister to perform the ceremony - the Marriage License Office is zero help - local roads are lined with chapels charging as little as $50. Extras One option is to range afield and pay more to have your ceremony performed outdoors. In sharp contrast to the kitschy wedding chapels that populate Las Vegas, the Sierras are one of Mother Nature's greatest cathedrals. We chose to get married outdoors by Jay Pearson, a local nondenominational minister whose anti-establishment views (broadcast on TV) place him distinctly outside the local religious community. Our wedding took place halfway up the mountain at Diamond Peak Ski Resort on a sunny winter day following a major dumping of snow. After slipping on each other's rings, we donned ski gloves and spent an afternoon on the slopes. Pastor Pearson's fee (donation) for weddings in the field varies by location; we paid $200 to lure him up the mountain. Ceremonies performed in his Wedding Well Ministries' Office (888/871-3161, www.bchapel.com) are $50-the standard fee for the area. Where to Stay Rooms with queen- and king-size beds (including breakfast for two) are $69 to $99 (weekends are more crowded and expensive) year-round at the Tahoe Biltmore Lodge and Casino (800/245-8667, www.tahoebiltmore.com), its prices kept down by big casino action. That's in Crystal Bay, Nevada, near several interesting places for your ceremony. Or you might upgrade to the Inn at Incline (775/831-1052, www.innatincline.com), in Incline Village, Nevada, alongside the Incline Village golf course, where amenities include an indoor pool, spa, sauna, and cozy lounge with fireplace. Queen rooms are $89 in low season (October-April), $119 May-September, and an extra $10 gets you a deluxe king. Airfare Though periodic sales to Reno/Lake Tahoe break out throughout the year, and round-trip fares from some nearby departure cities (such as Los Angeles) are well under $200, you'll usually pay $300 to $350 from U.S. cities that are at least three hours away. We calculated our total elopement cost of $1,045 by assuming two airfares of $300 apiece, $50 for a license, $50 for the ceremony, and five nights at $69 a room. British Virgin Islands ($2,384 per couple for six nights, including airfare) Here is heavenly hammock country, a sun-and-humidity-saturated network of volcanic islands with a magical ability to loosen joints and empty cluttered minds. It's wonderfully accessible to the U.S. The BVI comprise 60 islands (18 are inhabited) in the heart of the Caribbean, yet are only 60 miles east of Puerto Rico; it's possible to eat breakfast at your home, lunch in Miami, and toast your arrival in the BVI that night over champagne. What makes it so suitable for elopement is the simplicity of its marital laws. Getting married in the BVI requires only a visit to the post office in Road Town, Tortola, to purchase appropriate stamps (the B stands for "British," remember), a trip to the nearby Attorney General's office for passport verification, and an appointment with the registrar (284/494-3701), who will do the deed in no less than three working days thence. Total paperwork cost: $145, and eminently doable by yourself. Extras For an additional $65 plus the cost of fuel/ferry service, the registrar will venture beyond his or her office to perform your ceremony. The most popular choice, of course, is a beach. Ours was performed at sunset, with shoes off - a cliche rooted in some seriously good karma. The BVI abound with wedding planners who can help select the perfect spot. Heather Anderson at BVI Wedding Planners (284/494-5306, www.bviweddings.com) is among the friendliest of the lot. Her basic fee ($500) includes the stamps and registrar, but not costs for options such as a professional photographer, flowers, and cake. Where to Stay The delightfully intimate, nine-room Tamarind Club (284/495-2477, www.tamarindclub.com) in Tortola's Josiah's Bay rents garden/poolside rooms for $80 to $100 a night depending on the season, and so-called "honeymoon suites" for $110 to $150, including continental breakfast. Amenities include a locally popular restaurant, a lounge, and a pool with swim-up bar. Alternatively, the pricier Village Cay Resort Marina/Hotel (284/494-2771, www.villagecay.com) stands adjacent to a bustling marina and offers license-seekers easy access to the government building in Road Town as well as a poolside bar and waterside restaurant. Standard rooms are $125 to $165, waterfront rooms $150 to $190, depending on the season. Airfare All year, round-trip flights to Tortola from New York City (via San Juan) run $642 to $672, or around $552 from Miami. Off-season travel (June through November) offers fewer crowds and reduced rates but a greater risk of wayward hurricanes. We bought two tickets from New York for $1,284, a room for six nights at the Tamarind Club for $600, and the services of BVI Wedding Planners for $500. Total: $2,384. BALI ($2,411 per couple for nine nights, including airfare) What this Indonesian island lacks in convenience - allow for two days' air travel to and from the U.S., not to mention relatively complicated wedding laws - it more than makes up for with a deeply romantic vibe. The main source of Bali's allure isn't its fine beaches or balmy equatorial weather: It's the Balinese people, who practice their particular style of Hindu devotion in a daylong pageant of prayer. Even if you choose to play your wedding day straight - sans the expense of hiring a gamelan orchestra or wearing traditional sarongs - your time on the island will be rich in ambient pageantry. The documentation required for a wedding in Indonesia is complicated, and eloping in Bali requires the help of a coordinator. Bali Weddings International (011-62-361/287-516, www.baliweddingsinternational.com) has the island well covered; its basic $600 handling fee includes all documentation, the services of a religious representative, and also the time of a Government Registry Office observer (required by law). Extras Eloping in Bali is an excellent way to experience the Balinese genius for decoration in its full glory. Our wedding spot, on a patch of grass overlooking Jimbaran Bay, was a riot of palm fronds, dangling marigolds, and yellow-and-blue umbrellas. BWI's fee for decorations starts at $25, and it charges an additional $600 for those free-spending couples who decide to wear traditional costumes and have their union blessed by a Balinese Hindu priest after the legal proceedings. Where to Stay We liked the pool-equipped Casa Luna Honeymoon Guesthouse (011-62-361/973-283) for its spectacular rates (either $17, $24, $34, or $38 per room per night, depending on the category and view) and remarkable location within walking distance of downtown Ubud, the cultural and shopping heart of the island. Breakfast is included, with unforgettable freshly made pastries from an adjacent bakery. Also recommended is the higher-category Alam Sari Hotel (011-62-361/240-308, www.alamsari.com), perched on a hilltop about four miles north of Ubud's commercial center. Clear days offer excellent views of sacred Mount Agung. If you book on the Internet, year-round rates for a double room at Alam Sari will be $55 (and $10 more for a suite). And for a Balinese-level "splurge" (costing amazingly little for quality as high as this), consider the Sari Segara Hotel (011-62-361/703-647, www.sarisegara. com), where Internet rates run $92 to $115 per room, $104 to $138 per villa with bedroom and living room. Airfares Since an air-and-land package from Los Angeles sells for as low as $829 from reliable Escapes Unlimited (800/243-7227, www.escapesltd.com), there's no need to purchase a ticket costing over $1,000; buy the $829 air-and-hotel package and throw away the hotel (in favor of the ones we've recommended). Moreover, Escapes Unlimited's "add ons" from the East Coast ($30 from New York) are nominal. Multiplying $829 by two people, and adding a $17 room with breakfast at Casa Luna for nine nights ($153) and the $600 fee of Bali Weddings International, brings you an elopement to remember forever, at a total approximate cost of $2,411. That's for both of you-coming to just $1,205.50 per person. Scotland ($2,433 per couple for five nights, including airfare) Not only does it rain a lot in Scotland, it does so with gusto. Thankfully, "romantic" is a flexible adjective that certainly includes stormy days spent indoors beside a fire, sipping whisky and leafing through dusty volumes of vivid poetry. And when the weather does break, there's tandem horseback riding, golf, and other outdoor pursuits to restore your appetite before the next famously heavy meal. Eloping in Scotland is relatively simple, especially when compared with its more tradition-bound European neighbors. For centuries, all that formalized a marriage between two people was that they declare their bond publicly: no vows, rings, or clergy required. To this day, eloping in Scotland remains an informal affair. For civil ceremonies at a registration office, the fee is about $113. The General Register Office in Edinburgh will help locate registrars throughout Scotland. Though there's no residency requirement, the fee (and documents such as marriage notice forms and birth certificates) must be submitted to the registrar at least 15 days prior to your ceremony. Call 011-44-131/314-4447 or visit www.gro-scotland.gov.uk. Religious ceremonies are about a third the cost of civil ceremonies until you count the minister's fee and tip. The religious route is required if you wish to make your vows outside the registrar's office. Our ceremony at Stonefield Castle Hotel on the shores of Loch Fyne, southwest of Glasgow, was officiated by Reverend Montgomery, an octogenarian retiree from the nearby town of Tayvallich. Extras You can - but aren't obliged to - purchase several enhancements to your wedding ceremony and reception at Stonefield Castle Hotel, built in 1837 and the site of hundreds of weddings both lavish and intimate. Its staff will help you with logistics ranging from floral arrangements to a costly but festive Ceilidh (pronounced "kay-lee") band ($426), complete with dance lessons. And it's hard to beat haggis (about $38 per person) for dinner, marched into the dining room to the thrilling strains of a Scottish bagpiper (about $125); some marching musicians hereabouts have a flair for the dramatic and will recite several stanzas of Robert Burns before drawing daggers from their socks to administer the ceremonial first cut to the haggis. Where to Stay At Stonefield Castle Hotel (011-44-188/082-0836, www.stonefieldcastle.co.uk), garden-view rooms are $150 to $182 in winter (November through March), $208 to $241 during promotional periods from April through October, otherwise $241 to $294 (always including breakfast and dinner). In scheduling your elopement, attempt to get these promotional rates in spring or fall, and avoid the peak season (July, August) highs. Compare the prices you're quoted to an alternative choice, the Gretna Hall Hotel (011-44-146/133-8257, www.british-trust-hotels.com/gretna) in the picturesque village of Gretna Green, just across the border from England - it's been a popular "runaway wedding" stop for centuries. Here a bridal suite with full Scottish breakfast for two is $113 in winter, $143 the rest of the year. Airfares We don't recommend a winter stay in Scotland, nor one in peak summer season, and you should therefore look for shoulder-season rates of about $640 round-trip from New York (add approximately $100 from Chicago or Los Angeles), although airfare discounters like www.cheaptickets.com and www.statravel.com can sometimes reduce that tab by upwards of $100. The total cost of our Scottish elopement was based on airfare of $640 times two people, plus a $208 room times five nights, plus civil ceremonies at a registration office for $113, for a total of $2,433. The Greek Islands ($2,704 per couple for seven nights, including airfare) The Cyclades-so named because of the way in which they encircle the island of Delos, once the capital of all of classical Greece - are some two dozen land masses rooted sturdily in the windswept Aegean. Bordering the colorless land, the blue seawater appears computer-enhanced, like a vivid product in an otherwise black-and-white advertisement. The major hurdle to eloping in Greece is the waiting period, which varies from island to island - even from town to town on the same island. Santorini is the easiest island in the Cyclades on which to elope, by virtue of its accommodating and experienced City Hall staff. The deputy mayor himself officiated at our ceremony, on a balcony at our hotel, a mere four hours after our arrival on the island. Wedding logistics in Santorini are possible to arrange without the help of a planner. To obtain a license, couples must provide (fax is fine) copies of their birth certificates as well as a certificate of non-impediment to marriage from their local registrar. The cost of a wedding license is about $52, not including tip. All documents must be translated from English into Greek. Your local Greek consulate is the best place to have this done; if your documents are translated by someone else, they will need to be certified by the consulate anyway. Prices for the service vary; the consulate in San Francisco charged us $200. Contact Fira City Hall in Santorini at 011-30-2860/28-094. Several staffers there are conversant in both English and wedding matters. Extras For a small extra charge - say, $50 - the deputy mayor will venture outside his drab office to perform your ceremony. Ours took place on the balcony of our room at Dana Villas, with a view of the Aegean several hundred feet below. All of Santorini is a dormant volcano, and the town of Fira perches spectacularly at the rim of the crater. For those who wish to concentrate on lying by the pool and nibbling local salty cheese, many hotels on Santorini offer help pulling together wedding logistics - for a fee. Dana Villas charges $310, including the cost of all paperwork other than the translation. Where to Stay Dana Villas (011-30-2860/22-566, www.danavillas.gr), a group of kitchenette-equipped studios and apartments perched on the rim of a cliff, is conveniently close to Fira City Hall. It offers a killer view of Santorini's famous harbor, but charges a high $146 to $186 for a studio, depending on the season, including full buffet breakfast for two. More of a value is the 23-room Panorama Hotel (011-30-2860/22-481), offering honeymooners a primo view of the caldera from private verandas, in rooms costing $82 to $120, depending on the season, including full buffet breakfast for two. Or consider the blissfully quiet (despite its easy walking distance to the heart of Fira) Aressana Hotel (011-30-2860/23-900, www.aressana.gr), whose 53 rooms run from $74 to $128 (and you'll pay that $128 only in the peak month of August). Airfare It's best not to schedule your elopement for July or August, when round-trip fares top $1,000 and Santorini is choked with tourists. Fares from the U.S. East Coast to Greece are as low as $505 in February and March, $852 in April, May, June, and September, although consolidators (discounters) often chop $100 or more off those shoulder-season levels. Add $110 from Chicago, $120 from Los Angeles. Figuring two fares of $852 (total: $1,704), seven nights' lodging at $100 a night ($700), license and translation fees ($250), and the ceremony ($50), the total approximate cost for a couple comes to (very roughly) $2,704.

Half-price Honeymoons in Hulaland

The cost of a Hawaiian honeymoon can be something fierce, and the cost of a so-called "honeymoon package" can be even worse. Created by mass volume marketers, people with calculators for hearts, they often include none of the elements for which you've traveled to Hawaii--the dreamy, palm-fringed lagoons, the quiet settings in which an ocean breeze is the only sound, the soft murmur of aloha music in the distance. Rejecting their cookie-cutter wares in favor of the more intimate and often little-known hotels, you can enjoy the most memorable stay of your life for a lodging cost that starts at well under $100 a day per room. From many years of viewing and inspecting Hawaiian resorts, I've selected 15 exciting resort properties that fall into three low-price categories: five charging under $100 a night for a double room, five more charging under $125 a night for the same, and a final five charging under $150 a night. (Included in that last grouping is one hotel charging $155 a night, but it includes a car in the deal; moreover, it will reduce the price to $125 a night if one of you is a member of AAA.) My picks, you'll want to know, are not only easy on your wallet, but feature such amenities as sweet smelling, exotic gardens, swimming pools (half are located right on the ocean), panoramic views, and other Hawaiian memories that will linger in your mind long after your tan has faded. Once you pick the property that suits you, plan to spend at least seven nights there; most of them will grant a ten percent discount if you do, and you will have more time to enjoy the island without the hassle of packing/unpacking and checking-in/checking-out. Don't even think about flying from one island to another unless you are staying in Hawaii for more than seven days; otherwise your honeymoon will be spent in not-so-much-fun airport terminals. Finally, although you obviously won't be scheduling your wedding and honeymoon to match the short Hawaii "low season" (Apr 1 to Memorial Day and again from Labor Day to Dec 15), you'll generally pay even less for both your airfare and room if you travel at that time. Except in the case of seven resorts where breakfast is included in the price, the rates I quote do not include meals. And now, with limits of either $100, $125 or $150 per room per night, here are Hawaii's "secret bargain resorts" for memorable honeymoons: Resorts charging less than $100 a night per couple Kona Tiki Hotel, 75-5968 Aln Dr., Kailua-Kona, Big Island, tel. 808/329-1425, fax 808/327-9402. Oceanside boutique hotel of 15 rooms. Rates $59 double, or $79 double with kitchenette (including continental breakfast). This is the Hawaii honeymoon spot of your dreams: located right on the water, yet away from the more urban area of downtown Kailua-Kona, and surrounded by landscaped gardens; it serves up a big free breakfast in the sunshine every morning and a pool and lounge area oceanside. The tropically decorated rooms all have queen beds, ceiling fans, mini-fridges, and balconies overlooking the ocean. Although it's called a hotel, this small, family-run operation is more like a large B&B, with lots of aloha and plenty of friendly conversation around the pool at the morning breakfast buffet. There are no TV or phones in the rooms, but there's a pay phone in the lobby. If a kitchenette is available, grab it; you'll save you a bundle in food costs. This is one of Hawaii's best travel bargains-book early. Hawaiiana Hotel, 260 Beach Walk, Waikiki, tel. 800/367-5122 or 808/923-3811, fax 808/926-5728, hawaiianahotelatwaikiki.com. A small hotel of 93 rooms with kitchenettes. Rates: $95-$105, weekly discounts ($420-$480/week). For honeymooners seeking the spirit of old Hawaii, this low-rise boutique hotel, just a block from the famous Waikiki Beach and tucked away on a small side street, is a perfect choice. Lush tropical flowers and a carved tiki greet you at the entrance, a welcoming glass of ice-cold pineapple juice is served at check-in, and every morning, complimentary Kona coffee awaits you poolside. The concrete hollow-tiled rooms feature a kitchenette (small refrigerator, microwave, toaster oven, and coffeemaker), two beds (a double and a single or a queen plus sofa bed), TV, phone, and a view of the gardens and two swimming pools. Hawaiian entertainment is featured every week and the hotel is within walking distance of Waikiki shopping, restaurants, and nightlife. The Breakers, 250 Beach Walk, Waikiki, tel. 800/426-0494 or 808/923-3181, fax 808/923-7174, breakers-hawaii.com. 64 rooms. Rates: $94-$100. One of Waikiki's best kept secrets is this two-story hotel, just a short three-minute walk from Waikiki Beach. The six-building property centers around a pool and tropical garden blooming with scarlet red and sunrise-yellow hibiscus. The slightly oversized rooms are all air-conditioned and feature shoji doors, wooden jalousie windows, a balcony, and kitchenettes with two-burner stove, toaster, and fridge plus an iron, safe, TV, and phone. The poolside bar and grill serves cocktails and lunch on weekdays. Aston Coconut Plaza, 450 Lewers St., Waikiki, tel. 800/92-ASTON or 808/923-8828, fax 808/923-3473, aston-hotels.com. 80 rooms. Rates: $75-$110, including a free continental breakfast for two. Facing the Ala Wai canal and lush, green mountains, this small hotel offers honeymooners airy, island-style rooms, free breakfast, and lots of privacy at an affordable price. Recently renovated, the rooms have a tropical plantation atmosphere, with terra-cotta tile, rattan furniture, private balconies, TV, phones, ceramic-tile bathtubs, and daily maid service. The majority of the rooms have kitchenettes with small refrigerators, microwave, countertop two-burner stove, coffeemaker, and cooking utensils. Most of the rooms have views of the Ala Wai Canal and the mountains, but if you prefer quiet, ask for a cityview room. There's also a tiny outdoor pool with a sundeck, and our only caveat is that the beach is four long blocks (about a 10-15 minute walk) away. Hotel Coral Reef, 1516 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa, Kauai, tel. 800/843-4659 or 808/822-7705, hshawaii.com/vacplanner/kvp/clients/coral/index.html. Small 24-room hotel. Rates: $59-$65 per double, including continental breakfast for two. Care to spend your honeymoon on Kauai in a romantic location with swaying palm trees and a white sand beach, yet in a reasonably priced property whose costs permit you to enjoy a full week's stay? This is the place. One of Hawaii's best travel bargains, this economical hotel, nestled in Kapaa, along the Coconut Coast, sits on one of the island's best swimming and snorkeling beaches and is within walking distance of restaurants, shopping, and activities. Both buildings have comfortable rooms for your honeymoon, especially in the oceanfront building ($79 for a two-room suite and $89 for oceanfront) with sliding glass doors that step out on to the grassy lawn that leads to the beach. Resorts charging less than $125 a night per couple Royal Kuhio, 2240 Kuhio Ave., Waikiki, contact Paradise Mgmt., 50 S. Beretania St., Suite C207, Honolulu, HI 96813, tel. 808/538-7145, fax 808/533-7149. A high-rise condominium of 389 units. Rates: $125, occasionally $150 double for one-bedroom units. For honeymooners wanting more space (a separate bedroom), cooking options (a full-sized kitchen) and other apartment amenities (private balcony, TV, phone), this is one of the best budget deals in Waikiki. All the units in this high-rise condo are privately owned, and Paradise Management seems to have selected the best units for rental at the best prices. The complex has a pool, exercise room, sauna, self-service laundromat, sundeck, billiards, basketball court, shuffleboard, even a putting green. It's a short, ten-minute, two-block walk to Waikiki Beach, and within walking distance of restaurants, shopping, and activities. Also, it's one of the few places in Waikiki where parking is free. Kona Magic Sands, 77-6452 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona, Big Island, reservations c/o Hawaii Resort Management, P.O. Box 39, Kailua-Kona, HI 96745, tel. 800/622-5348 or 808/329-3333, fax 808/326-4137, konahawaii.com. Condominium with 37 units. Rates: $95 low season, $125 high season. If your dream honeymoon is to stay directly on the oceanfront and be lulled to sleep by the rolling surf, yet your budget calls for more frugal accommodations, this is the place for you. These older studio units may not be luxurious or large, but they are unusually cozy, consisting of one long, narrow room with a small kitchen at one end and a breathtaking view of the ocean at the other, with a living room/bedroom combo in between. Other pluses include: oceanfront pool, an excellent seafood restaurant (Jameson's by the Sea) on the ground floor of the complex, and two beach parks on either side of the property. Kaleialoha, 3785 Lower Honoapnlani Rd., Honokowai, Maui, tel. 800/222-8688 or 808/669-8197, fax 808/669-2502, mauicondosoceanfront.com. Small condominium with 26 one-bedroom units. Rates: $105-$115, a ten percent reduction given for stays of seven days or more from Apr 30 to Dec 15. North of Lahaina, in a small quiet community of Honokowai, lies this oceanfront budget condo, recently upgraded, with new paint, bedspreads, and drapes in each unit. The island-style one-bedroom units feature an ocean view and fully equipped kitchens, with everything from dishwashers to washers and dryers; some units of this low-cost property even have air-conditioning. The complex has a heated pool, and there's very safe ocean swimming just off the rock wall (no sandy beach). Restaurants and shops are in the neighborhood and Lahaina is just a ten-minute drive away. Napili Sunset, 46 Hui Dr., in Lahaina, Maui, tel. 800/447-9229 or 808/669-8083, fax 808/669-2730, napilisunset.com. 42 condominium units. Rates: $105 studio low season, $120 high (check Web site for specials). Honeymooners: these plain two-story structures may not look like much from the outside, but looks can be deceiving. Overlooking one of Maui's finest beaches, these clean, older, but well-maintained units offer a great location, bargain prices, and very efficient accommodations. The studio units are all located in a building off the beach and a few steps up a slight hill; centered around a swimming pool, they're good-sized, with complete kitchens (including a dishwasher), a sofa bed, a queen Murphy bed, extra large bathrooms, balconies, ceiling fans, and daily maid service. Just a five-minute drive to the activities at Kapalua Resort or a 15-minute drive to Lahaina. Noelani Condominium Resort, 4095-L Lower Honoapnlani Rd., Lahaina, Maui, tel. 800/367-6030 or 808/669-8374, fax 808/669-7904, noelani-condo-resort.com. 45 unit condominium. Rates are $107/studio low season, $127 high, and include continental breakfast on first morning (check Web site for specials). This first-class oceanfront condo is a deal. Located north of Lahaina (about a 10-15-minute drive), this top-notch property has received AAA's three-diamond designation. All units are beautifully decorated and have full kitchens, entertainment centers, and spectacular views (watch for spinner dolphins and turtles in the summer and humpback whales in winter). There are two freshwater swimming pools (one heated for night swimming) and an oceanfront Jacuzzi. Guests are invited to a continental breakfast orientation on their first day and weekly mai tai parties at night. Next door is a sandy cove beach park, great for swimming and snorkeling. Resorts charging less than $150 a night per couple The New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki, tel. 800/356-8264 or 808/923-1555, fax 808/922-9404, kaimana.com. Small oceanfront hotel with 125 units. Rates: $140-$184. This boutique property presents a different face of Waikiki: a quiet, isolated stretch of white sand beach at the foot of Diamond Head, with Kapiolani Park just across the street, about a mile from the hubbub of Waikiki, and thus far enough away for lovers to nestle in peace and quiet. Most of the budget rooms are small but tastefully decorated in pale pastels with balconies providing ocean and park views. Because the hotel overlooks Kapiolani Park, honeymooners will have easy access to all the activities there, plus kayaking and snorkeling at the beach. The airy lobby opens onto the alfresco Hau Tree Lanai, a charming beachfront restaurant with adjoining Sunset Lanai Bar. Manoa Valley Inn, 2001 Vancouver Dr., Honolulu, tel. 808/947-6019, fax 808/946-6168, manoa-valleyinn.com. Tiny eight room hotel. Rates: $99 with shared bath, and $140-$150 double with private bath, ten percent discount for seven nights. Parking is free as are local phone calls and Continental breakfast is included. Here you can spend your honeymoon exactly as dignified, demanding vacationers did near the turn of the century, in a historic 1919 Carpenter-Gothic home, located near the University of Hawaii (a 5-minute drive from Waikiki Beach). A genteel ambiance pervades throughout, helped along by the Victorian decor (antique and period pieces along with old-fashioned flowered-print wallpaper) and the peace and quiet of the neighborhood. Guests gather on the verandah to play chess or other board games, or have a turn playing croquet in the backyard. The budget rooms, which all share a full bath, are just as exquisitely turned out in antiques as the more expensive rooms with private bath. Holualoa Inn, 76-5932 Mamalahoa Hwy., Holualoa, Big Island of Hawaii, tel. 800/392-1812 or 808/324-1121, fax 808/322-2472, holualoa-inn.com Small inn with six units. Rates: $175-$225, 15 percent discount for seven nights, and rates include full breakfast and sunset pupu platter. This Hawaiian inn, located on 40 pastoral acres in the secluded, artsy village of Holualoa, on the slope at 1,350 feet above Kailua-Kona is one of Hawaii's most romantic places for a honeymoon. Impeccably decorated suites overlook the garden Jacuzzi, pool, and coffee plantation (source of the morning brew). Great honeymoon amenities include a gas grill for a romantic dinner next to the pool, a telescope for star-gazing, and a billiard table. It's a 15-minute drive down the hill to busy Kailua-Kona and about 20 minutes to the beach, but the on-property pool is itself a compelling option and has a stunning view of the Kailua-Kona coastline. The Plantation Inn, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, Maui, tel. 800/433-6815 or 808/667-9225, fax 808/667-9293, theplantationinn.com. Boutique inn with 19 units. Rates: $157-$250, ten percent discount for seven nights, including breakfast for two. Romance is in the air at this charming Victorian-style inn (which looks like it was built at the turn of the century, but is actually 1990s vintage). Cupid couldn't have designed lovelier rooms, artfully done with period furniture, hardwood floors, stained glass, ceiling fans, and four-poster canopy beds and armoires in some rooms and brass beds and wicker in others. All come equipped with soundproofing (a plus in Lahaina), TV, VCR, fridge, private bathroom, and some have large balconies. The rooms overlook the large pool and deck. Also on the property are a spa and an excellent French restaurant (hotel guests get a discount on dinner). Gourmet breakfast is served around the pool and elegantly decorated pavilion lounge. Maui Coast Hotel, 2259 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, Maui, tel. 800/426-0670 or 808/874-6284, fax 808/875-4731, mauicoasthotel.com. Mid-sized hotel with 265 units. Rates: $165-$195 (includes a car). For the newly married who seek the sunny beaches of Maui, but who can't afford the expense of a Wailea beach resort, this off-the-beach mid-rise is one of the rare moderately priced hotels in the neighboring community of Kihei. Not only is this hotel centrally located, about a block from Kamaole Beach Park, but there are plenty of activities, restaurants, and shopping within walking distance. We've included this hotel, even though it's over our $150 limit, because the $175 room includes a car and the value offered is outstanding. A $2.5 million renovation of all the rooms plus the remodeled public areas (lobby, pool, restaurant, bar) has turned this once moderately priced property into a semi-luxury place for honeymooners (not the Four Seasons, but for the money a terrific deal). The rooms offer extras such as sitting areas, coffeemakers with free coffee, air-conditioning, hair-dryers, mini-fridges, safes, ceiling fans, and private balconies. There's a restaurant next door, 7 a.m.-9 p.m. room service, and a poolside bar with nightly entertainment. Additional amenities include heated pool, two Jacuzzis, and tennis courts Should you book a honeymoon "package"? Nearly every hotel, resort, and condominium in Hawaii, including the ones listed in this article, offers a "honeymoon package." Read the small print and do the math before you book. Generally the "honeymoon packages" do not actually save you money, and you can reproduce the amenities of those colorful, gussied-up offers yourself at a much lower cost. Most "honeymoon packages" consist of a couple of flowered leis (which you can purchase yourself for $5 each), a bottle of champagne delivered to your room (even a good vintage goes for well under $50), and perhaps a breakfast or dinner in the privacy of your room (eat in a restaurant and save the cash).

Explore Outdoor Australia in a Day (or Two)

Let's face it: Australia is a big place. Planning a trip down under can be daunting, especially for the budget-conscious traveller. Humbled by the far-flung continent, most thrifty tourists give up touring Australia's natural side and stick to a city-based itinerary. But here's a hint: you don't have to trek all the way to The Outback to experience Australia's breathtaking and diverse natural wonders. Some of Oz's most spectacular outdoor experiences lie just a few hours outside of its popular cities: Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. No extra flights or accommodations necessary-all it takes is a daytrip to see kangaroos and koalas in the wild, bushwalk along rugged mountain peaks, or perfect your tan on wide sandy beaches. From Sydney: Up the mountain, down the dune Excursion 1: The Blue Mountains (71 miles from Sydney) Big city crowds and congestion fall away when approaching the striking, mist-shrouded Blue Mountains, home to a sprinkling of charming towns and lots of native wildlife. All manner of activities, from adventure sports to antiquing, abound, but the scenery alone is enough to attract visitors. Looking out at the dense stretches of green gum trees, uniquely craggy rock formations and waterfalls cascading down sheer cliffs, it's easy to see why the Blue Mountains are a favorite high-altitude retreat for Sydneysiders. The highlights: The best place to start your daytrip is Katoomba, the Blue Mountain's largest town and home to its most popular attraction, the Three Sisters.This unique triplet of pinnacles, named after an Aboriginal legend, rises 9900 feet from the floor of Jamison Valley south of town. A fun way to descend into Jamison is aboard the world's steepest Scenic Railway (02/4782 2699, .scenicworld.com.au/; $10/$5 roundtrip). The five-minute ride takes passengers down 1,361 ft. at a maximum incline of 52 degrees, paralleling a fern-strewn cliff face. At the bottom, a mile of boardwalk trails let visitors wind through the valley's ancient rainforest. Just four miles outside of Katoomba, you'll find numerous craft and antiques shops in Wentworth Falls, but the real draw is the 922-ft. waterfall tumbling down rust-colored rock into Jamison Valley. If you brought hiking boots, you'll want to try one of the scenic (and at times strenuous) bushwalks that traverse the falls. There are over a dozen trails to choose from, though most agree the National Pass Walk, a two and a half-mile path that starts on the far side of the falls, is the best day-hike in the Blue Mountains. Paralleling overhanging rock faces on one side and sheer drops on the other, this five-hour trail offers amazing panoramas of Jamison Valley, before dipping down to the base of the falls, known as the Valley of the Waters. Climbing out again is a bit trying, but worth the soaring views. Exursion 2: Port Stephens (131 miles from Sydney) Some beaches are for sun worshippers, but its nature-loves that adore the crystal blue waters and sandy dune beaches of Port Stephens. More than twice the size of Sydney Harbour, beautiful Port Stephen's Bay is a prime spot to see underwater wildlife: boat cruises bring visitors closest to the 80 resident bottle-nosed dolphins, schools of colourful fish and, from May to October, thousands of migrating humpback, minke and southern right whales who call Port Stephens home. Once ashore, miles of flat shoreline, as well as one of the world's longest dune systems, await exploration. The highlights: Boat cruises are a must. Visitors get the most dolphin for their dollar aboard the fun and informative "Sail with the Dolphins Island Discovery' cruise, run by popular outfitter Imagine (02/4984 9000, .portstephens.com.au/imagine). The four-hour cruise includes dolphin-watching, as well as snorkelling, lunch and a tour around the offshore islands, for a real steal: $35 for adults and $17.80 for children 4 to 14. Cruises departs daily at 10 am from December to March. From May 22nd to end of October, Imagine offers a three- to three and a half-hour "Whale & Dolphin Watch' for the same price, with two cruises daily at 10:05 am and 1:30 pm. An awe-inspiring expanse of brilliant white sand, rippling and folding into the Pacific Ocean, the Stockton Bight Sand Dunes are the top must-see on land. You can take on this 12-mile dune system, the longest in the Southern Hemisphere, by foot from Anna Bay, a resort town on the north end of the Bight. Sahara Horse Trails (02/4981 9077) allows visitors to hoof it (literally) on a two-hour horseback ride through the dunes for $53. From Melbourne: Wildlife wonderland Phillip Island (86 miles from Melbourne) Fur and flipper are the stars of Phillip Island-tourists flock here by the thousands on weekends to see penguins and pandas in their natural habitat, whether it be an unspoiled range of mangrove wetlands, cliff-lined surf beaches or gum tree forests that are breathtakingly picturesque. The highlights: Crowds pack the boardwalks every evening at dusk for Phillip Island's main event: the ever-popular Penguin Parade (03/5951 2800, .penguins.org.au/;adults $11.40, children $5.70). As the sun sinks over the ocean, visitors watch hundreds of Little Penguins, the world's smallest, waddle out of the waves after a day of fishing in the Bass Strait to their warrens in the dunes. At just 13 inches high, these cute little birds are the only penguins to breed on Australian mainland. Be sure to reserve your ticket for the Penguin Parade ahead on weekends, public holidays and in the summer, when Phillip Island is the busiest. With only a handful of koalas left in the wild of Phillip Island, the best place to find them is at The Koala Conservation Centre (03/5956 8300, .penguins.org.au/; adults $6, children $3). This sanctuary of natural bushland, set up to help save the koala in 1991, provides exceptional koala viewing, especially on the raised boardwalk, a 20-minute loop which lets you see the tree-huggers in their homes. The late afternoon is the best time for self-guided koala spotting, or let the ranger be your guide on the Koala Eco Explorer tour and learn about the centre's efforts to protect these endangered creatures (daily at 3 pm, adults $4.25, children $1.75). The island's southwest peninsula ends in bulbous, rocky headland called The Nobbies. At low tide, you can walk out to this outcropping via a craggy land bridge. It features fabulous views of the coastline and two offshore islands known as Seal Rocks. Don't forget your binoculars- you'll want to see the 12,000 Australian Fur Seals (the largest colony in the country) and thousands of silver gulls that call these isles home. From Brisbane: Tropical/rainforest The Gold Coast (31 miles from Brisbane) For a day at the beach, nothing beats the Gold Coast, Australia's famed stretch of sugary white shoreline that goes on uninterrupted for 18 miles. Strips of cheap eats, motels and souvenir shops paralleling the sand are all part of the area's "beach town' kitsch, though overdevelopment has had its downsides (read: high-rises that cast a shadow over stretches of coast). Still, it's the natural beauty of the beaches, the pounding surf and the taste of rich green hinterland to be found not far ashore, that make the Gold Coast a worthy spot in the sun. The highlights: Wide, flat and free to the public, the Gold Coast's beaches are its number one attraction. Buffered from encroaching condominiums by a low dune system, there are 35 beaches in total, though the Coast is actually just one beautiful, unbroken expanse of shoreline. All you have to do is pick a place to lay your towel, taking note of the red and yellow flags that indicate safe swimming conditions in the choppy Pacific. Palm trees and sea oats thrive at Main Beach, on the north end of the Coast, where the buildings are set farther offshore and the atmosphere is more secluded. The view, looking south to the creamy shoreline curving into the rocky cliffs of Coolangatta (a popular surfing site), is relaxingly picturesque. Bronzed gods and beach bunnies flock south of Main to Surfer's Paradise (locals call it "Surfers'), the day and night pulse of the Gold Coast. If you like a crowded, active beach, this is your spot. Gold Coast Surfing School (07/5526 7077, .australiansurfer.com.au/) rents surfboards, body boards and wetsuits to those inclined to catch waves, as well as beach chairs and umbrellas for the sunbathers ($3.50-10.70 for an hour, $10.70-$28.50 for the day). Enough of the beach? Well, wildlife-lovers will enjoy the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary (07/5534 1266, .currumbin-sanctuary.org.au/; adults $16.40, children $10.70), a 67-acre wildlife park set in rolling green hinterland, 11 miles outside of Surfers. Home to over 1400 birds, mammals, and reptiles (including two huge saltwater crocodiles), Currumbin allows visitors to get hands-on with its inhabitants. You can feed colonies of kangaroos, have your picture taken holding a koala and toss fish to pelicans and wetland birds. Don't miss the chaotic Lorikeet feeding (held at 8am and 4pm), when hundreds of the rainbow-colored birds chirpily descend on tourists holding trays of seed. The Aboriginal song and dance show, held daily at 3:30 pm, is also worth seeing.