Fit for a Museum

By Meghan McEwen
April 26, 2006
Four museums where breathtaking, one-of-a-kind shoes are put on pedestals--right where they belong

Canada: Bata Shoe Museum

What you'll find: Twelve thousand shoes occupy four floors of cross-cultural exhibits--from ancient Egyptian sandals to ornate Chinese shoes used in foot binding. Current exhibit: "Icons of Elegance: The Most Influential Shoe Designers of the 20th Century," showcasing works by Salvatore Ferragamo, Roger Vivier, and Manolo Blahnik (through August).

Curator's choice: "A pair of Mojaris that was owned by the Nizam of Hyderabad between 1790 and 1800," says curator Elizabeth Semmelhack. "They're completely encrusted with gold thread, diamonds, and rubies--too heavy to wear, but a marvel of the extraordinary."

In the gift shop: A rhinestone-encrusted pie server with a stiletto heel magnetically attached to the handle ($12). 327 Bloor St. West, Toronto, 416/979-7799, batashoemuseum.ca, $7

England: Northampton Museum

What you'll find: wo galleries have 12,000 notable shoes and shoemaking artifacts collected over the past 140 years. Some highlights: a boot made for an elephant, and stilts in the shape of Doc Martens that were worn by Elton John. Current exhibit: "Africa Adorned," featuring African footwear and jewelry with especially detailed beadwork (June 16--July 23).

Curator's choice: "A pair of quirky red leather stilettos from the 1960s," says Rebecca Shawcross. "The company that produced them added little wheels onto the stilettos. They're called wheel-heels. Needless to say, they were quite short-lived."

In the gift shop: Wooden shoe lasts that double as bookends, paperweights, and candlestick holders (from $14). Guildhall Rd., Northampton, 011-44/1604-838-111, www.northampton.gov.uk/museums, free

Italy: Ferragamo Museum

What you'll find: Exhibits draw from the 10,000-strong Ferragamo collection, with shoes made for Marilyn Monroe and Katharine Hepburn. They're displayed alongside relevant photographs, sketches, and articles. Current exhibit: "Ideas, Models, Inventions," focusing on Ferragamo's design process and featuring his patents and original drawings for concepts such as shoes with interchangeable heels--for example, the 1937 cork wedge (through the summer).

Curator's choice: Museum director Stefania Ricci's favorite is the Invisible Shoe: "The sandal's upper is made from nylon fishing thread."

In the gift shop: A box of postcards with patterns derived from shoes in the museum's collection ($12). Via Tornabuoni 2, Florence, 011-39/055-336-0456, ferragamo.com, free

Germany: German Shoe Museum

What you'll find: The selection of 14,000-plus shoes is paired with displays of historical tools of the trade. Current exhibit: "The Changing of Innocence," an avant-garde installation by Monika Golla with works of art constructed out of Barbie shoes (through September).

Curator's choice: Dr. Rosita Nenno's favorite: "The 'topless,' or sole-only, shoes by Beth Levine, made in 1959. The wearer has to glue the sole onto her foot. It's even possible to dance in them."

In the gift shop: Jan Jansen slippers--black and gray with a big red kiss across the top ($29). Frankfurter Str. 86, Offenbach, 011-49/69-829-7980, ledermuseum.de, $5

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Shoe Couturiers

Argentina Sylvie Geronimi is a true craftswoman, as seen in intricate details such as leather flowers, patchwork, and lacing on pumps or sandals. Prices start at around $200, but customers get serious attention for the money, starting with a private consultation and measuring appointment. The wait: one month. 2445 Uriarte, Buenos Aires, 011-54/11-4774-5408, sylviegeronimi.com.ar Cambodia Play mix and match with heels, silk, and swatches at Beautiful. The store's artists will construct anything a customer wants--sandals, slingbacks, pumps, oxfords, boots--for as little as $12. The wait: three days. 138 Street 143, Sangkat Boeung Keng Kang 3, Phnom Penh, 011-855/12-848-438 China Get up-to-the-minute designer knockoffs at Liii Couture. Prices start at around $170, though shoes made with luxury fabrics and rare leathers cost even more. Bring in pages from a magazine to convey what you'd like or, better yet, a favorite shoe you're hoping to have re-created. The wait: one day. Shop #75, Tower Two Admiralty Centre, 18 Harcourt Rd., Hong Kong, 011-852/2136-9739 Germany Heels Angels' designers Anja Hoffmann and Christiane Schulze can cobble together any shoe imaginable--wooden clog-like mules, metallic T-strap sandals, tall blue suede boots, pointy leather flats. They do it all by hand, and prices start at $170 for hip, Western-style sandals with grommets and a wooden heel. The wait: three months. Klenzestr. 45, Munich, 011-49/89-201-0136, heels-angels.de India Using cotton, silk, leather, and even the bark of a banana tree, self-taught designer Edwin Pinto handcrafts avant-garde sandals, mules, and slippers at Janota. A pair of leather flip-flops costs $25, while more complicated sandals--with leather leaves climbing up the leg, for example--are still a bargain at $50.The wait: two weeks. Aldeia Aurino near Damian de Goa, Porvorim, Goa, 011-91/832-241-2129, janotagoa.in Morocco The babouche stall in the bustling Marrakech bazaar sells an overwhelming array of traditional Moroccan slippers. Pretty silk mules with intricate beadwork cost less than $10. If you don't see exactly what you're looking for, feel free to make requests--e.g., gold silk slippers with red beading and a soft leather sole--and the designers do their best to comply. The wait: two to three days. 30 Souk Smata, Marrakech, 011-212/44-440-446 Spain Craftsmen at La Manual Alpargatera have been making espadrilles since 1941 for everyone from Ralph Lauren to Pope John Paul II. Every last detail--fabric, sole, ribbons--is hand-sewn. Customized espadrilles start at $15. The wait: two to five days, longer in summer. Carrer d'Avinyo 7, Barcelona, 011-34/93-301-0172, lamanual.net United States Kathy Pham has been crafting shoes at King Shoe in Orange County's Little Saigon since the early 1990s. She uses pigskin, calfskin, and lambskin to copy existing shoes or create new ones. Prices start at $150. The wait: one week. 9191 Bolsa Ave., Suite 119, Westminster, Calif., 714/897-4350 Vietnam The family tailoring shop Thu Thuy specializes in made-to-order clothing, but the designers will also gladly fashion custom silk slippers. Floor-to-ceiling walls of beautiful silks provide design inspiration. Depending on the shape of the sole, combination of silks, and type of straps, the price varies--but rarely exceeds $10. The wait: one day. 60 Le Loi St., Hoi An, 011-84/510-861-699, hoianthuthuysilk.com Repairs in a pinch Nothing's worse than an untimely shoe snafu. These repair shops are known for quality with a quick turnaround. The only downside: That's one less excuse to buy a new pair. --Brooke Kosofsky Glassberg Chicago: Brooks Shoe Service 55 E. Washington St., 312/372-2504, $10 to repair a broken strap Coral Gables, Fla:. Gables Shoe Repair 2615 Ponce De Leon Blvd., 305/448-6390, $7 to replace a heel tip London: Classic Shoe Repairs 23-25 Brecknock Rd., Camden, 011-44/20-7485-5275, $14 to patch a rip Los Angeles: Arturo's Shoe Fixx 9643 Santa Monica Blvd., 310/278-9585, $6 to fix a tear New York City: Top Service 845 Seventh Ave., 212/765-3190, $22 to mend a broken heel Paris: Pulin 5 rue Chauveau Lagarde, 011-33/1-42-65-08-57, $12 to add a silicone insole

London's Top Vintage Deals

London-based costume designer Jacqueline Durran had a hand in dressing Natalie Portman in Star Wars: Episode III, Halle Berry in Die Another Day, and Angelina Jolie in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. Most recently, she scoured the city's vintage markets on behalf of Keira Knightley, to find period shoes for Pride & Prejudice. "A lot of people in London were very interested in vintage before it was called vintage," she says. "There's a real culture of not throwing anything away, of recycling." Durran is responsible for outfitting people from head to toe, but the most fun part is always, of course, the shoes. Cloud Cuckoo Land "I can't stand all those retro shops where everything comes from the 1960s and '70s," says Durran. "I prefer ones that have a wide range of items from the 20th century, and Cloud Cuckoo Land, in Islington, has lots of stuff that's much older." She is particularly fond of Cloud Cuckoo Land's selection of classic 1940s wedges and sexy 1950s stilettos. 6 Charlton Pl., 011-44/20-7354-3141 Battersea Vintage Fashion, Accessories, and Textiles Fair Vintage dealers from all over the country come to the bimonthly fair. "There are a couple of shoe dealers in the mix, and I've bought a bunch of shoes from them over time," Durran says. The stock is from the 1800s to the 1970s. Battersea Arts Centre, Lavender Hill, 011-44/20-8325-5789, vintagefashionfairs.com, admission $7 Cornucopia Durran also worked on 2004's Vera Drake, and she found the perfect shoes in this store near Victoria Station: "It's got a crazy mix of things, and you never really know what you're going to find." 12 Upper Tachbrook St., 011-44/20-7828-5752 The London Vintage Fashion, Textiles, and Accessories Fair The monthly vintage fair is not to be missed, says Durran. Her favorite recent buy was a pair of red snakeskin stilettos from the '80s. "They have this fabulous butterfly detail on them." Hammersmith Town Hall, King St., 011-44/20-8543-5075, pa-antiques.co.uk, admission $9

Great Long Weekends

Asheville The nearby Pisgah National Forest makes for a bounty of hiking and mountain-biking trails: Simply pick up trail maps at the Pisgah visitor center (160A Zillicoa St., 828/257-4200, cs.unca.edu/nfsnc) and then pull off the Blue Ridge Parkway at marked trailheads. George Vanderbilt was so impressed with the scenery in western North Carolina that he built his 250-room chateau 10 minutes from downtown. A day pass will get you into the Biltmore House and winery for self-guided tours (and in the case of the winery, tastings), and also the Frederick Law Olmsted--designed gardens and 8,000-acre estate (1 Approach Rd., off Highway 25, 877/324-5866, biltmore.com, from $38). Asheville's natural setting appeals to New Age types--as any of them can tell you, the name of the city's beloved vegetarian restaurant, Laughing Seed Café, comes from an Indonesian legend in which the seeds of a sacred plant are believed to allow communication with the gods (40 Wall St., 828/252-3445, Harmony Bowl of brown rice, beans, vegetables, tofu, and sesame-ginger dressing $9). Early Girl Eatery makes its own breakfast breads and vegan sausage, and gets everything else from local farms and bakeries (8 Wall St., 828/259-9292, shrimp and grits $7.25). And seven days a week, local growers bring their gorgeous products to the Western North Carolina Farmers' Market (570 Brevard Rd., 828/253-1691). Asheville is home to four breweries and a lively bluegrass, country, and American roots music scene. Barley's Taproom & Pizzeria hosts live music at least three times a week and has 53 local and international beers on tap (42 Biltmore Ave., 828/255-0504, pint of Pisgah Pale Ale $3.50). Highland Brewing Company, in the basement of the same building, runs free brewery tours by appointment (42 Biltmore Ave., 828/255-8240, entrance around the back). Just 10 minutes from downtown, find unimpeded stargazing from the porches of two-bedroom cabins--which sleep up to eight, with a kitchen and fireplace--at The Pines Cottages (346 Weaverville Hwy., 828/645-9661, ashevillepines.com, two-bedroom from $125, one-bedroom from $45). Austin You can make a whole weekend of a six-block stretch of South Congress Avenue, a district known as SoCo. At FactoryPeople, try on a fancy pair of jeans--Nobody, Habitual--and the staff will hand you a bottle of Red Stripe to ease the decision-making process. Local DJs spin music in the store and pump it upstairs to the rooftop patio (1325 S. Congress Ave., 888/322-8002). Parts & Labour stocks clothing exclusively by Texas-based designers (1604 S. Congress Ave., 512/326-1648), while Blackmail sells women's and men's apparel from all over the world--but only in black (1202 S. Congress Ave., 512/326-7670). The tacos al pastor--pork marinated in orange juice, then roasted, wrapped in a corn tortilla, and topped with pineapple and cilantro--at Guero's are considered the best in town (1412 S. Congress Ave., 512/447-7688, tacos $3). The restaurant's other draw is its proximity to the Congress Avenue Bridge: Every night at dusk from late spring to early fall, spectators line up to watch 1.5 million bats fly from their home under the bridge. The town's bar scene falls into many distinct camps. The Broken Spoke has country dancing and a real down-home vibe (3201 S. Lamar Blvd., 512/442-6189). Meanwhile, at the Brown Bar, late nights find party girls drinking colorful cocktails to '80s hits and hip-hop. Two large screens sometimes show Nip/Tuck episodes, if you're into that (201 W. 8th St., 512/480-8330). The Continental Club is a hangout for rockabilly types (1315 S. Congress Ave., 512/441-2444), and it's down the street from the Hotel San José, where double queen rooms come with a shared porch, funky modern furniture, and a free library of CDs, including OutKast and the Kinks (1316 S. Congress Ave., 800/574-8897, from $90). Burlington Burlington is the largest city in Vermont, which ain't saying much. An eight-mile bike path takes in some of the best views of Lake Champlain. (Rent a bike for $12 per hour at Skirack, 85 Main St., 800/882-4530.) And Perkins Pier, a municipal park and boat launch at the foot of Maple Street, is a convenient departure point for kayaking (Waterfront Boat Rentals, Perkins Pier, 802/864-4858, kayak rentals $10 an hour). Considered to have the tastiest brunch in town, Penny Cluse Café combines great people-watching through huge windows with a Southwestern-themed menu, including mammoth breakfast burritos (169 Cherry St., 802/651-8834, $6.75). Downtown's Church Street is pedestrian-only and lined with stores, coffee shops, and boutiques; one of the best of these is the casual yet stylish boutique Sweet Lady Jane, which stocks Hobo International bags (40 Church St., 802/862-5051). The Daily Planet restaurant reflects Burlington's mellow style; after dinner, people settle in for the evening with the bar's popular drink, a Dark 'n' Stormy--ginger beer and dark rum (15 Center St., 802/862-9647, $6). Elsewhere, beer is king, thanks in part to locally brewed Magic Hat, on tap at Red Square (136 Church St., 802/859-8909, pint $4.50). Also local is Ben & Jerry's; the factory tour is in Waterbury, but both Ben and Jerry occasionally make an appearance at the store in town (36 Church St., 802/862-9620). Howard Street Guest House, built to look like a carriage house, is a few blocks from downtown and fits up to five in its one studio apartment with kitchenette (153 Howard St., 802/864-4668, howardstreetguesthouse.com, $160 a night). Portland At the downtown Portland Saturday Market, artisans congregate under the west end of Burnside Bridge, selling artwork, homemade jam, and clothing made with recycled materials (March--December, 503/222-6072, also open Sundays). A five-minute walk away, Powell's City of Books has an extensive selection of used and new titles on anything and everything alternative (1005 W. Burnside St., 503/228-4651). Despite its hemp-happy reputation, Portland is also home to independent upscale boutiques. Take the streetcar to Northwest Portland: Local jewelry designers sell their work at Twist (30 NW 23rd Pl., 503/224-0334), and women's designers from the Pacific Northwest are at Seaplane (827 NW 23rd Ave., 503/234-2409) and The Bee and Thistle (2328 NW Westover Rd., 503/222-3397). A grittier aesthetic reigns in the Northeast Alberta district. Art galleries and bodegas alternate with chef-owned restaurants like the Tin Shed Cafe, where breakfast is served all day and happy hour specials include Cherry Garcia quesadillas, with roasted red peppers, jalapeños, black beans, Tillamook cheddar, cilantro-jalapeño crème fraîche, and cherry jam (1438 NE Alberta St., 503/288-6966, $3). Don't despair if you can't squeeze into the exclusive, reservation-only restaurant Family Supper (2240 N. Interstate Ave., 503/235-2294); the same owners have a gastro-pub in the same building (Gotham Bldg. Tavern, 503/493-2646, cheddar-and-chutney sandwiches $7). The slickest nightclub in town resembles a hipster log cabin, aptly named Doug Fir (830 E. Burnside St., 503/231-9663). Blackberry cosmos ($7) and salads with tiger prawns, pears, and Asiago cheese ($10) are served in the upstairs restaurant/bar. Downstairs, bands and DJs play to a packed dance floor. Next door, the Jupiter Hotel, a refurbished '50s motel, refers to rooms with two queen-size beds as The Deuce; some rooms are outfitted with city- and forest-scene murals and Blu Dot furniture (800 E. Burnside St., 503/230-9200, jupiterhotel.com, from $79). Santa Fe Most of Santa Fe's contemporary, 19th-century, and Native American art galleries are in adobe buildings lining Canyon Road. A four-day, $18 pass gets you into the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, the Museum of International Folk Art, and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art (all on Museum Hill), as well as the Palace of the Governors and the Museum of Fine Art. The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian is free (museumhill.org). The world's largest collection of works by Georgia O'Keeffe is housed two blocks from the Plaza at the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum (217 Johnson St., 505/946-1000, $8). To see the landscapes that inspired her, take the 1.5-mile hike through the Nature Conservancy's Santa Fe Canyon Preserve (Upper Canyon Rd. at Cerro Gordo Rd., 505/988-3867). Exporting Southwestern style helps Santa Fe thrive: Local Native Americans sell their handcrafted sterling silver jewelry and beadwork under the portal of the Palace of the Governors in the Plaza--at prices far lower than those in the stores lining the square (105 W. Palace Ave.). Locals and tourists alike line up at Cafe Pasqual's for the chili en nogada, a stuffed poblano chili in walnut sauce (121 Don Gaspar Ave., 505/983-9340, $21). In warm weather, the whole city seems to hang out on the patio of the Cowgirl BBQ & Western Grill (319 S. Guadalupe St., 505/982-2565). There's live music Tuesdays--Sundays, margaritas aplenty, and New Mexican favorites like chile rellenos ($10). The El Rey Inn, a self-described old-style motor court, has several adobe-style suites on five acres of garden property. It's about two miles from downtown (1862 Cerrillos Rd., 800/521-1349, elreyinnsantafe.com, from $95). And no trip to Santa Fe is complete without a relaxing dip in a private outdoor hot tub at Ten Thousand Waves Spa & Resort (505/992-5025, tenthousandwaves.com; private outdoor tub from $20). Scottsdale The best spa deals are at Marriott's Camelback Inn; 60-minute massages start at $100 (5402 E. Lincoln Dr., 480/596-7040, camelbackinn.com). Celebs like Jennifer Aniston stock up on bath-and-body goodies at the Lather boutique in Kierland Commons (15211 N. Kierland Blvd., 480/483-6633). Frank Lloyd Wright also loved Scottsdale: He built his office/drafting studio, Taliesin West, in the foothills of the McDowell Mountains. The 490-acre complex reflects his appreciation of desert light and sharp angles (480/860-8810, franklloydwright.org, one-hour tour $18). The sleek, colorful Mondrian hotel--formerly known as The James--is the center of Scottsdale nightlife (7353 E. Indian School Rd., 480/308-1100, mondrianscottsdale.com, rooms from $169). Recover the next morning at Orange Table with a Monaco omelet ($7)--made with roasted red peppers, provolone, and basil (7373 E. Scottsdale Mall, 480/424-6819). Scottsdale's Fashion Square mall has labels like Louis Vuitton and Coach, but there are better bargains at nearby consignment chain My Sister's Closet (6204 N. Scottsdale Rd., 480/443-4575). The best pizza in the U.S. is at Pizzeria Bianco, in Phoenix. It only takes reservations for groups of six or more, but the Wiseguy pie ($13) is worth a wait (623 E. Adams St., 602/258-8300). West Palm Beach The city is flashy and proud of it: Even the Norton Museum of Art gets in the game, with a glass ceiling by Dale Chihuly--the artist who did the Bellagio lobby ceiling (1451 S. Olive Ave., 561/832-5196, $8). Henry Morrison Flagler, the original West Palm pioneer, built his nearby 55-room "winter retreat" in 1902 (Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, 1 Whitehall Way, 561/655-2833, tours $15), around the same time as another of his endeavors, The Breakers hotel in Palm Beach. On Clematis Street, dozens of clubs, bars, and people compete for attention. Cucina Dell'Arte is the place for late-night dinner and drinks (257 Royal Poinciana Way, 561/655-0770, pizza $16). Antiques stores on South Dixie Highway sell a mixture of the high-class and the hilarious: shell-covered chandeliers at Christa's South Antiques & Seashells (3737 S. Dixie Hwy., 561/655-4650) and '50s furniture and accessories at Deco Don's (5107 S. Dixie Hwy., 561/588-2552). Rhythm Café shares the same aesthetic, with ambitious dishes served under a disco ball (3800 S. Dixie Hwy., 561/833-3406, stuffed cod $25). Cuban espressos are a must at Havana restaurant (6801 S. Dixie Hwy., 561/547-9799). The cocktail scene at Hotel Biba, a renovated motel in the El Cid neighborhood, routinely spills out to the pool and garden. Splurge for the lavender-and-white suite, which has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a shared living room (320 Belvedere Rd., 800/789-9843, hotelbiba.com, rooms from $109, suites from $215).

America's Best Spa Values: Mexico and Canada

Hosteria Las Quintas Resort Spa, Cuernavaca In addition to three heated pools, a gym, and treatments like a volcanic Mayan mud body mask, part of the draw is the spa's proximity to archaeological sites and ecological reserves. $997, includes airport transfers, four nights in a terrace room, an exfoliating body scrub, reflexology massage, and a 30-minute massage. Note: $14 per day is added to the bill to cover gratuities. 877/784-6827, hlasquintas.com. Rio Caliente, Guadalajara In a remote pine forest less than an hour west of Guadalajara, Rio Caliente touts its mineral hot springs that rise from an underground volcanic source. Five-Night Treat, $690, includes two massages or facials and a mud wrap. 800/200-2927, riocaliente.com. Hills Health Spa, British Columbia An hour south of Williams Lake, Hills Health offers standard activities--hiking, swimming, yoga--along with others befitting its horse-ranch location. Two-Night Couch Potato Package from $311, includes a hayride sing-along, a full-body massage, and all BC taxes. 800/668-2233, spabc.com. Tigh-Na-Mara, British Columbia The new Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara uses indigenous Canadian products, including glacial clay from the Bella Coola River. Two-Night Instant Grotto-Fication Package from $246, includes breakfast daily and one dinner; a one-hour massage, facial, or body wrap; and round-trip transfers from the ferry terminal. 800/663-7373, tigh-na-mara.com. Spa Eastman, Quebec An hour east of Montreal, Spa Eastman's 315 acres include nearly 10 miles of hiking trails and gardens that provide produce for the kitchen. $676, three nights' lodging, a naturopathic consultation, stone massage, underwater jet massage, aromatic wrap, and Decléor Body treatment. 800/665-5272, spa-eastman.com.