12 Mysterious Underground Tours

By Brendan Spiegel
May 3, 2006
0912_undergroundtours
There's more to most cities than what scrapes the sky—as long as you're willing to peer beneath the surface.

A Nazi hideout
An ordinary door in Berlin's Gesundbrunnen train station leads to an abandoned air raid shelter that reveals Berlin's dark underbelly: an array of secret bunkers, escape tunnels—even an aircraft factory—built by the Nazi regime during WWII and expanded during the Cold War. Berlin Underworlds' Association, 011-49/30-4991-0517, berliner-unterwelten.de, 90-minute tour $13.

Paranormal activity
Inch through cramped corridors dug below Edinburgh's South Bridge in the 1700s that were originally used as storage spaces by merchants. The corridors became a crowded slum and eventually a rumored dumping ground for murder victims, which may explain why more than a few visitors have reported paranormal sightings in these creepy, claustrophobic passageways. Mercat Tours, 011-44/131-225-5445, mercattours.com, 75-minute tour $12.

Water world
The Basilica Cistern, which once supplied water to Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, is a cavernous space outfitted with imposing domed ceilings and towering Corinthian columns—two are mounted on giant Medusa head bases, one of which is inexplicably facing upside down. Five additional subterranean cisterns (some ruined, some restored) are explored on this tour. Les Arts Turcs Tours, 011-90-212-527-6859, bazaarturkey.com, 4-5-hour tour $37.

Herod was here
Ancient tunnels beneath the heart of Jerusalem's Old City expose layers of the Western Wall, including a gigantic 570-ton stone—one of the heaviest objects ever lifted without machinery. Visitors can see the remnants of the temple built by King Herod about 2,050 years ago, and walk along a road that ran next to the temple in Herod's time. Book tours at least two months in advance. The Western Wall Heritage Foundation, 011-972/2-627-1333, english.thekotel.org, 75-minute tour $7.

Even the graffiti's old
A gate hidden in an alleyway behind Naples's Piazza San Gaetano reveals a network of nearly 250 miles of caves and tunnels constructed two millennia ago. Still lying among the ruins are a Greco-Roman theater submerged underneath houses and ancient aqueducts now lined with WWII-era graffiti. Napoli Sotterranea, napolisotterranea.org, 011-39/081-296-944, two-hour tour $14.

Unscheduled stop
When it opened in 1904, the original City Hall subway station wowed commuters with its intricate brass chandeliers, leaded skylights, and arched Guastavino ceiling tiles. Today it lies forgotten beneath downtown Manhattan, seen only on this several-times-yearly tour, which includes a look at a 100-year-old train car. New York Transit Museum, 718/694-1600, mta.info/museum, one-hour tour $20 (annual museum membership required; $40 per person, $55 for a family of four).

Sewer city
Fans of Les Misérables are familiar with tales of vagrants hiding in the City of Light's pitch-black sewer system. Originally built in the 1200s, these Paris sewers were greatly expanded by influential civic planner Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann in the 1850s and today can be accessed via a museum between the Quai d'Orsay and the Seine River. Musée des Égouts, 011-33/1-53-68-27-81, parisinfo.com, one-hour tour $5.50.

Illegal market
Explore a rumored entrance to the legendary Shanghai Tunnels beneath Portland's Chinatown, where transient laborers were allegedly kidnapped and sold into slavery in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. (Historians now question whether such events actually occurred.) Look for the 1880 coal chute and the remains of a coal stoker furnace. Portland Walking Tours, 503/774/4522, portlandwalkingtours.com, two-and-a-half-hour tour $19.

Dan Brown's inspiration
From ancient Christian burial grounds to underground dungeons, enough secrets lie below Rome to form the basis of another Angels and Demons. The tour highlight is the multilayered Basilica di San Clemente, a 12th-century basilica built on top of a 4th-century church, which was built next to a 3rd-century temple. Today, all three areas can be explored. Avventure Bellissime Tours, 011-39/041-970-499, tours-italy.com, MarchOctober, three hour tour $110.

Burnt out
After the Great Fire of 1889 destroyed 25 city blocks, Seattle rebuilt one story higher because of flood concerns, pushing the charred remains below ground level. In 1907, the underground city was condemned because of fears of bubonic plague, but today visitors can walk along sidewalks, streets, and storefronts, some still intact and some restored. Bill Speidel's Underground Tour, 206/682-4646, undergroundtour.com, 90-minute tour $15.

Plot foiled
The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, a narrow, mile-long shaft below the Korean border, was dug in secret by North Korea, apparently designed for a surprise attack on the South. Discovered by South Korea in 1978, the tunnel is just 32 miles from Seoul. Grace Travel, 011-82/2-332-8946, triptokorea.com, part of the six-hour DMZ Transit Tour $38.

Through the ages
Beneath the 2,500-year-old city of Vienna is a maze of medieval cellars, preserved baroque crypts, excavated Roman ruins, and underground passageways. While they were built over several centuries, many of these sites are now connected by tunnels that served as air-raid shelters during WWII. Vienna Walks & Talks, 011-43/1-774-8901, viennawalks.com, 90-minute tour $24.

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Break Off a Piece of a Grand Hotel

Anyone who's ever walked by Claridge's, Raffles, or the Waldorf-Astoria has been moved by everything those names imply. But you don't have to stay there to take a bit of the glamour home with you. Every famous hotel sells stuff with its name on it. This is money terribly spent (which might just be the definition of a splurge). After all, your dog gives neither a kibble nor a bit if he's eating from a Beverly Hills Hotel bowl. And yet there's something so perfectly insouciant about that dog bowl, isn't there? Leaving it out in the backyard like "The Pink Palace" means nothing to you. You're not claiming familiarity with the hotel so much as letting a familiarity be inferred; it's a lie that's littler than little and paler than white. The charitable interpretation is that you're paying homage--to a time when a hotel name could stand for something grand. In any event, the way things are headed, all these hotels will follow in the footsteps of the Plaza and be converted into condominiums by 2015. So grab your piece now. Acapulco: Las Brisas backgammon set. Carretera Escénica 5255, 011-52/744-469-69-00, brisas.com.mx, $59. Beverly Hills: Beverly Hills Hotel ceramic dog bowl. 9641 Sunset Blvd., 310/276-2251, thebeverlyhillshotel.com, $53. Dallas: Mansion on Turtle Creek apron. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 214/559-2100, mansiononturtlecreek.com, $25. Hong Kong: Peninsula teddy-bear mug. Salisbury Rd., Kowloon, 011-852/2920-2888, hongkong.peninsula.com, $16. London: Claridge's Eau de Toilette. Brook St., Mayfair, 011-44/20-7629-8860, claridges.co.uk, $73. New York City: Waldorf-Astoria tote bag. 301 Park Ave., 212/355-3000, waldorfastoria.com, $50. Palm Beach: Breakers jigsaw puzzle. 1 S. County Rd., 561/655-6611, thebreakers.com, $20. Paris: Plaza Athénée baby bootees (translation: "My first steps at the Plaza Athénée"). 25 av Montaigne, 011-33/1-53-67-66-65, plaza-athenee-paris.com, $42. Pebble Beach: Lodge at Pebble Beach cooler. 1700 17-Mile Dr., 831/647-7500, pebblebeach.com, $48. Rio de Janeiro: Copacabana Palace ceramic tumbler. Av. Atlântica 1702, 011-55/21-2548-7070, copacabanapalace.com.br, $12. Singapore: Raffles half-yard glass, with stand. 1 Beach Rd., 011-65/6337-1886, singapore-raffles.raffles.com, $54. Venice: Hotel Danieli ceramic figurine. Castello 4196, 011-39/041-522-6480, danieli.hotelinvenice.com, $36.

Trip Coach: May 2, 2006

Richard Coon, President of RVIA: Hi, Richard Coon here. Thanks very much for joining me today. I'm ready for your questions. _______________________ Harrisburg, PA: We are a retired couple invited to a favorite niece's mid-August wedding in Oregon. We have plenty of time to get there, see the sights along the way and make a leisurely return trip to Pennsylvania by a different route. Any suggestions for a 30 or more day itinerary as we travel in our 38 foot diesel pusher? Richard Coon, President of RVIA: Having such an open itinerary gives you the luxury of getting off the beaten path. Use non-superhighways and take advantage of scenic national and state parks. The Internet is a valuable research resource. Award wining travel expert Brad Herzog has been traveling the country for the past several years and has written about many destinations in Go RVing's e-newsletter. Click here for the most current issue In addition, author Harry Basch has written a very good Frommer's travel guide called "Exploring America by RV," which is available in bookstores throughout the country. You can find great tips on planning your itinerary here. Included are tips on "Green RVing," what to pack before a trip, a safety guide and basic maintenance suggestions. _______________________ Lansing, Michigan: I will be driving from Lansing, Michigan to San Diego, California with a final destination of Sacramento (my hometown). I am moving back and my roommate wants to come along for the road trip. We will be leaving in July and plan to be on the road for about a week. We are both young students and wonder if it would be wise to rent an RV. It would be used to transport all of my belongings, tow my car, and as an alternative to paying for a hotel room. We don't have a lot of money. Is the cost of renting an RV going to outweigh the cost of shipping my belongings, and paying for nightly accomodations? -Skyler Richard Coon, President of RVIA: Affordability is one of the big advantages of renting an RV for a trip, which is generally less expensive than staying in hotels and eating out for a week, especially if you take into account the cost of shipping your belongings back home. RV rental rates vary by season, region and unit size. Motorhomes, the most common rental model, are typically $90 to $200 per day; folding camping trailers and travel trailers run $28 to $85 per day. Package deals of three to seven days often include mileage and reduce the per-day rate. Because of the heightened demand for RV rentals, I advise making reservations well in advance. Special tour packages offer such benefits as one-way rentals; off-season rates; guided escorts; campground discounts; and airline and railway connections. Those interested in renting an RV should check their Yellow Pages under "Recreation Vehicles--Renting and Leasing." Or visit GoRVing.com for a searchable online directory of more than 340 rental companies. _______________________ Columbus, IN 47201: Family reunion trip Ft. Wayne, IN - Buffalo, NY -July 15-20 large group. Suggestion for best/honest/least expensive place to rent largest RV near Ft. Wayne - be returning. AARP or Auto Club or any other discounts/deals there? Don't want to have a bad 1'st experience or get ripped off. Thanks! I'll log on May 2. Maureen Richard Coon, President of RVIA: RVs are extremely popular for family reunions as they provide families with the conveniences of home on the road. The drive to the destination becomes part of the fun, especially with young children. Sleeping quarters, kitchens, dining areas and bathrooms are readily accessible, eliminating the need to look for rest areas and restaurants and making the trip more relaxing. Check out the online search directory at GoRVing.com for dealers in your area. _______________________ Tampa, Florida: We are considering purchasing a small travel trailer and camp for the first time. We also want to take our two German Shepherd Dogs. What advice can you share about camping with dogs and/or any advice for first-time RV'ers? Richard Coon, President of RVIA: According to a survey conducted by the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association, 48% of the nation's eight million RV owners travel with their pets, with dogs topping the list. Here are just a few of the advantages that RVs offer pets and their owners: Ensures that pets get the same level of care, nutrition and exercise that they enjoy at home. Does away with the inconvenience of crating and shipping your pet. Instead, the pet rides first class in an RV complete with windows for a breath-taking view, enough room for walking around and a soft place to nap. Most importantly, the pet is with its family. Eliminates the expense, hassle and worry of pet-sitters. Prevents the possibility of pets contracting illnesses associated with staying in a kennel. Please call ahead to the campgrounds where you intend to stay to ensure that they are pet friendly. Most campgrounds welcome pets on a leash. First-time RVers will find a wealth of information about RVing at GoRVing.com _______________________ I never driven an RV before, do you think that it will be difficult to learn on a trip? Thinking about driving from Chicago through the upper half ending up in San Francisco. Thanks Richard Coon, President of RVIA: Driving or towing a recreation vehicle (RV) is easier than many newcomers think and is different, not difficult. Experienced automobile drivers already possess the necessary skills. Motorized RVs typically come equipped with automatic transmissions, power brakes and power steering. With proper attention to the differences in vehicle size, turning radius, height and weight, you'll find it fun and easy to take the wheel. Towing skills are also readily acquired for the various types of towable RVs. Recreation vehicles do not require a commercial driver's license for personal use. In some states, the very largest RVs may require a special test for a different class of driver's license. Whether you will be driving a motorized RV or towing an RV, you should: Adjust and use all rear view mirrors. Before leaving on a trip, sit in the driver's seat and adjust all mirrors for optimal road views. Account for your vehicle size when turning. The front and rear wheels will track paths much farther apart than those of a car. Allow more time to brake, change lanes and enter a busy highway, since bigger vehicles take more time to accelerate and slow down. Back up with care. It is a good idea to have someone outside the vehicle assist the driver in backing up to avoid any obstacles not seen in the mirrors. If another person is not available, the driver should inspect the area behind the vehicle. By evaluating the situation before backing, drivers can avoid surprises and accidents. Drivers towing a folding camping trailer or travel trailers also should: Match the proper tow vehicle to your RV. Most full and mid-size family cars can pull a trailer; so can today's popular vans, sport utility vehicles (SUVs) and light-duty trucks. Check the owner's manual to find the trailer types that your vehicle can haul and the maximum load weight it can pull. Use the right trailer hitch and make sure it is hitched correctly. Connect brakes and signal lights. Always check that the trailer's brakes, turn signals and tail lights are synchronized with the towing vehicle's. Whether you're driving a motorhome, conversion vehicle or other tow vehicle, make every trip a safer one by buckling up your safety belt and making sure passengers are secured too. Wearing a safety belt is the single most effective thing you can do to prevent serious injury and death in a traffic accident, according to the National Safety Belt Coalition. _______________________ Bainbridge, GA: Going to Long Island this summer in NY out near Smith Point beach, etc. but having very hard time finding camping for our RV. Any suggestions? Richard Coon, President of RVIA: I recommend consulting the leading association for the private campground industy, which has a very thorough web site: www.gocampingamerica.com In addition, you can also search the campground locater at GoRVing.com for locations that have pledged to extend a particularly warm welcome to newcomers. _______________________ Grand Junction, CO: We will be traveling from here through Yellowstone and onto Glacier. What is the most scenic route? Will be driving a 40' MH and towing a car. Do the campgrounds in Yellowstone fill the end of June? Any crystal ball guesses on fuel prices? Will be staying around Kelispell, Montana for 6-8 weeks. What is the lond term camping stitution there? Richard Coon, President of RVIA: We can't specify an exact route, but do recommend you seek out roads designated as U.S. scenic byways. Please click here for more information. _______________________ Welches, OR: We are finding that RV parks are now restricting the size of the dog you have. We travel with a 35 lb Wheaten Terrier and a 125 lb. Kuvasz. He is large, but he is also the quietest and most serious dog of any in the park (he was a working guardian dog on our farm). Since we have to clean up after both of them, why should they care if we choose to share our limited space with a human size dog? The RV campgrounds books do not list this fact, making it quite a problem when we travel as he is definitly too large to sneak in. Meanwhile the high strung yippers seem to be acceptable... Richard Coon, President of RVIA: As stated previously, we recommend calling your campground in advance to check on their pet policy. _______________________ Houston, TX: We are thinking of renting before we buy. What are the best sources for rentals, and what do we need to look for/look out for? Richard Coon, President of RVIA: Those interested in renting an RV should check their Yellow Pages under "Recreation Vehicles--Renting and Leasing." Or visit GoRVing.com for a searchable online directory of more than 340 rental companies. RV rental rates vary by season, region and unit size. Motorhomes, the most common rental model, are typically $90 to $200 per day; folding camping trailers and travel trailers run $28 to $85 per day. Package deals of three to seven days often include mileage and reduce the per-day rate. Because of the heightened demand for RV rentals, I advise making reservations well in advance. Special tour packages offer such benefits as one-way rentals; off-season rates; guided escorts; campground discounts; and airline and railway connections. A valid driver's license and proof of age are required by all rental agencies. Rental companies provide inexperienced RV drivers with handling tips and accompany them on test drives before letting them head out into the open road. Most companies provide housekeeping packages (dishes/pots/pans/linens) at nominal fees. _______________________ Kennesaw, Georgia: My family is taking a two week trip to New Zealand, arriving in Auckland on July 4, 2006. We leave out of Auckland on on July 16, 2006. We would like to rent an RV and travel from Auckland and drive to the South Isand, leaving the RV in either Queenstown or Dunedin, then fly back to Auckland for departure. Our family consists of myself and my wife (ages 40) two boys (ages 8 and 6) and my mother-in-law (age 70). We would like your advice on the best itenerary and any other helpful information you could provide. We are most interested in seeing Queenstown for couple of days and Milford Sound. I am unsure if we should drop off the RV in Dunedin, then take a train to Queenstown, or drive all the way to Queenstown. We are open to almost anything, thanks for your consideration. Doug subscriber for many years Richard Coon, President of RVIA: A quick search on the internet came up with several options for RV rentals in New Zealand, the most prominant of which was: britz.com. RVIA does not have any jurisdiction there, so we suggest you do a little research on your own. _______________________ Albuquerque, NM: I am considering renting an RV so that my sister and I can travel and sightsee throughout New Mexico, and take my dog with us. Are dogs welcome in rented RVs? And can you recommend stopping sites where they are welcome (and safe)? Richard Coon, President of RVIA: A quick check on the FAQ section of one of the larger RV rental companies has the following statement: "Pets are welcomed. Customer agrees to clean up after their pet and return unit in same condition as received, or be subject to a cleaning fee up to $250." Be sure to check in advance with your local rental company options. Go to GoRVing.com to search for rental companies in your area. Further, its always a good idea to call ahead to campgrounds where you intend to stay to chack on their specific pet policies. Most campgrounds do welcome dogs on a leash. _______________________ Annapolis, MD: My friend and I are college students and we are going to be spending 12 days in the italy, france region. We are starting out in venice and would like to see paris, what small/inexpensive towns could we see between the two places? Are there some good places for biking? Do you recommend some cheap hotels or hostels for paris? Richard Coon, President of RVIA: Sorry. RVIA represents the American recreation vehicle industry. We can't help you with this one. _______________________ El Monte, California: My family is planning a trip this July to Santa Fe New Mexico to visit family and we would like to visit Carlsbad Caverns, Roswell, the Cumbres Toltec railroad, possibly even try to find Area 51! Can you recomend anything else? My sons are 12 and 16 and into aliens and other strange phenomenoms. We are planning to be gone for 2 weeks. Thanks Richard Coon, President of RVIA: The December 2005 issue of the Go RVing newsletter focuses on travel in New Mexico. Please see this link for more information. _______________________ Richard Coon, President of RVIA: Thanks very much for your interesting questions. It was a pleasure being here today. The best advice I can give in closing is to visit our web site Gorving.com and order a free DVD on getting started as an RV traveler. The DVD covers everything we chatted about today and more. _______________________

If You've Ever Booked a Hotel Online,       Read This

I am hopping mad. I went to a travel-industry dinner last night and was told the most appalling thing. Back in our April 2004 issue, we ran an item about how people were getting great deals from online booking companies--Expedia, Orbitz, Travelocity--at fancy hotels, only to find that they weren't treated as well as other guests. We kind of danced around it, because that type of item is a bit unprovable. It's not as if a hotel is going to actually confirm that it behaves badly. Last night's dinner was held by the BBC, which is trying to figure out how to make travel television interesting. (Good luck.) The guest to my right was in the sales department of an upscale business hotel in New York City. (I'm not naming it because I can't imagine she thought she was speaking on the record.) She said point blank that the hotel treats customers who book through a third-party website worse than other guests. "If someone needs to be downgraded, we always go for the Expedia guest," she said--with pride. "But that's horrifying!" I said. "It's that way at every hotel," she said. "We know you don't want to spend money. You won't spend it on our food and beverages, spa services, anything. If you book that way, you're cheap. And we don't want you." "Then why do you even take the bookings?" I asked. "The economics of running a hotel. We need to fill rooms." My jaw hit the table. If your job, your raison d'être, is to treat people well, then wouldn't you try to treat everyone well? (You know I'm ticked when I start talking in italics.) Even U.S. airlines--not usually known for stellar customer service--don't begrudge the passengers who upgrade using frequent-flier miles. It's not as if Expedia, Orbitz, and Travelocity--who will surely be dismayed to hear all this--are the black market. Booking through them is a legitimate transaction, and if hotels are going to treat us as second-class customers, they should let us know in advance. Paying less to get less is something I can handle; getting the shaft when I think I've roped a good deal is another matter entirely. I suppose I'm being a Pollyanna, but every guest who walks through the doors of that hotel--or any hotel--is an opportunity. You never know who's coming back, loaded, and you never know when the economy is going to hit a slump again--which is when business travel tanks. I've got news for them: The world has changed. Everyone wants a good deal, and only a fool would punish the people who are savvy and dedicated enough to actually get one.