To Boycott or Not to Boycott

By Michele Schwartz
June 7, 2006
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The truth is, there are pros and cons to visiting countries with sketchy human rights records

Last spring, North Korea announced it would grant visas to Americans attending the Arirang festival, which is held daily from August 10 through October 10 and consists of an astounding synchronized stadium performance with a cast of 100,000. With few exceptions, Americans may enter the country only if they book tour packages overseen by the North Korean government. Tour groups are assigned two state-approved guides, and itineraries are limited to sites glorifying the regime. There are almost no opportunities to interact with locals.

For bragging rights alone, such a trip is tempting. But just because you're allowed to go doesn't mean you should. Foreign dollars spent in North Korea aid a government widely regarded as one of the world's most oppressive.

Still, deciding whether to visit a country isn't a black-and-white choice. Activist and Nobel Peace Prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi has asked Westerners to avoid travel to Myanmar while its repressive regime remains in place. The Dalai Lama, on the other hand, is famous for opposing Chinese rule in Tibet, yet he supports responsible travel to the Himalayan nation in order to increase awareness of the issues there. Travelers also help locals feel less isolated, and they bring in desperately needed money.

So how do you figure out the right thing to do?

Human rights organizations rarely advocate an all-out boycott of any nation. Instead, they encourage people to educate themselves and make informed decisions. Human Rights Watch (hrw.org) and Amnesty International (amnestyusa.org) publish in-depth reports on more than 150 countries--including the U.S.--keeping tabs on issues such as torture, minority oppression, and freedom of speech. OneWorld United States (us.oneworld.net) is part of a global network of some 1,600 progressive organizations that lets you search by topic through hundreds of articles written by journalists and activists. You can also browse studies by the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Democracy, Human Rights, and Labor (state.gov/g/drl/hr), going back to 1993: Pick a year, choose a world area, then click. Select Cuba, for example, and you'll be briefed on political prisoners, questionable arrests, and detentions. The nonprofit, nonpartisan Freedom House (freedomhouse.org) provides detailed national dossiers; a map that shows which countries are "free," "partly free," and "not free"; and rankings for civil liberty from 1 (highest freedom) to 7 (lowest). In 2005, China, Cambodia, Egypt, Laos, and the United Arab Emirates, which are all popular with tourists, rated a 5 or worse.

There are also resources if you're concerned about specific groups. The International Gay and Lesbian Human Rights Commission (http://www.www.iglhrc.org/) focuses on the treatment of lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and HIV-positive groups worldwide. You can find up-to-date information about the many countries that still have antigay laws on the books, including the Bahamas and Jamaica, on the website sodomylaws.org. MADRE (madre.org), an international women's rights organization, posts articles about reproductive rights, violence against women, and working conditions for women around the world. The organization also arranges themed trips, such as one to Kenya last June that combined a safari with a visit to a village that had established a violence-free zone specifically for women.

"Travelers must understand they have an impact and a choice," says Jeff Greenwald, executive director of the Ethical Traveler (ethicaltraveler.org), an organization committed to strengthening human rights and environmental protection. "As much as possible, put your money where your heart is."

It's not all shades of gray

Freedom House, a nonprofit formed in New York City in 1941, rates countries according to political rights and civil liberties. A map on its website shows which nations are free (green), partly free (yellow), and not free (purple). Click on any country at the site for more in-depth info.

If you do decide to go . . .

Get your dollars to the people: "Buy local, stay local, and hire local," says Malia Everette, director of Global Exchange's Reality Tours. Choose privately run B&Bs and inns over government-owned hotels and buy souvenirs at community markets.

Go independent: With most packages, tourists have little control over where their money is spent. Book with socially responsible companies that take travelers to meet activists and join programs beneficial to locals, such as Global Exchange's Reality Tours (globalexchange.org) and Culture Xplorers (culturexplorers.com). This fall, Reality Tours' two-week tour of Libya includes crafts demonstrations at Berber settlements and discussions with members of the Libyan American Friendship Association about efforts to improve relations with the U.S.

Make a connection: North Korea won't allow foreigners to meet and socialize with civilians because the government knows how powerful personal interaction can be. Ask questions, share stories, and express interest in people's lives and cultures; the benefits go far beyond satisfying curiosity. But never push yourself on anyone who appears uncomfortable. It may be dangerous for a local to be seen associating with a foreigner.

Spread the word: When you return home, host a night for friends and family to hear about your experiences, or offer to give a talk at your church, school, or community center. Raise donations for school supplies, over-the-counter medications, or other items most needed by the communities you visited. And let others know that the best travel guide is their own conscience.

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Get the Most out of Your African Safari

What's the best destination? Every country has something special to offer, but many safari connoisseurs say the top overall choices are Kenya, Botswana, South Africa, and Tanzania. All have established tourism industries and opportunities to spot the "big five" (elephants, lions, leopards, rhinos, and buffalo). South Africa stands apart for its relative abundance of conveniences--ATM machines, Internet access--as well as hospitals and a variety of accommodations and activities. "You're better able to mix it up in South Africa, with visits to cities, beaches, and cultural attractions," says Julian Harrison, coauthor of Fodor's African Safari and president of Premier Tours. Middle- and upper-class South Africans who drive to the country's reserves make up a large part of its safari market. By contrast, safaris in Kenya, Botswana, and Tanzania primarily cater to international tourists. The game reserves are often in remote locations, and the experience feels more like you're in the middle of Africa, not a park tucked off the highway. Private or public reserve? Public parks tend to be larger and have more animals. South Africa's Kruger National Park consists of about 7,700 square miles and is home to 12,500 elephants. Sabi Sand Wildtuin, an adjacent private reserve, is tiny by comparison, spread over 250 square miles. Africa's largest elephant population on private land is in Botswana's Mashatu Game Reserve, which has a herd of around 500. The downside of public parks is that they're generally more crowded and restricted. "You can't drive after dark," says Harrison. "There's no walking and, in eastern Africa, there are no open vehicles." Private reserves afford more freedom, along with luxury and exclusivity, but you'll pay for the privilege. An all-inclusive suite at Sabi Sabi's Bush Lodge in the Sabi Sand Wildtuin costs as much as $735 per person per night, whereas an apartment with space for six in Kruger's Berg-en-Dal camp costs $292 in high season. Self-drive or guided? Most international visitors book safaris led by rangers; if your guide works for a respected tour operator, he'll be an expert tracker with near-encyclopedic knowledge of the wildlife. Self-drive tours are possible in a few national parks--Kruger and Namibia's Etosha, to name two. Beyond costing less, the benefit of a self-drive is that you set the schedule. On guided trips, you follow the group itinerary, often waking before 6 a.m. Yet going it alone is quite a risk if this is your one and only safari; no one wants to travel all the way to Africa, only to miss out on the sights. Customized safaris are the ultimate, allowing you to control who's in your group, and when and for how long you're out on patrol. How do guided safaris work? You'll sleep either in one home base, which could be anything from a permanent tent camp without electricity to a five-star lodge, or in mobile campsites that allow your group to keep moving. "Game drives are typically done in the early morning and late afternoon hours," says Stacey Bisley, tour consultant for safari operator Gametrackers. Each drive lasts three or four hours. Some lodges also offer guided walks or night drives to view game with a spotlight. For many people, two days on safari isn't enough, while ten days in a row of rambling on bumpy roads may try your patience. What other activities are available? When not on game drives, folks on safari eat and relax--a lot. This may prove challenging if you like to exercise or simply can't handle down time. Going for a walk solo is too dangerous, and only the priciest lodges have spas, gyms, and pools. Is it suitable for families? Children are allowed on most safaris, but it's hard to justify the expense for youngsters who'd be as excited watching The Lion King. Alana Hayden, president of Born Free Safaris, suggests a minimum age of 5, though teens will better appreciate (and remember) the experience. Many kids aren't ready to sit patiently in a vehicle for hours. What shots are necessary? Most safaris take place in malaria zones, and antimalaria medication is strongly recommended. To play it safe, head to one of South Africa's malaria-free zones in the Eastern Cape and North West Province. Consult your doctor no matter which destination you pick. Is travel insurance required? Many tour operators need you to prove you'll be covered for trip cancellation, medical expenses, and lost or delayed baggage. Contact your health insurance company to find out if your policy already provides such coverage, and purchase travel insurance to fill in gaps. Even if your tour operator doesn't require you to be insured, it's still a good idea. Browse policies at quotetravelinsurance.com or insuremytrip.com. When's the best time to go? The high season for most countries runs from June through October, when the weather is cool and dry and animals are easier to observe because they congregate near water sources. In low season, animals are more dispersed and tougher to track, but there are advantages. "You have cheaper rates, less people, and the landscape is lush and green," says Harrison. How much? On self-drive tours, expenses are limited to lodging, rental car, gas, and a park fee ($20 per day at Kruger). If you're splitting costs within a group, costs could be under $100 per person daily. Guided safaris with game drives, meals, and alcohol included range from $200 all the way up to $1,200 a day. You also need to figure in airfare of $1,300 or more, as well as tips for drivers and guides; $10 each for every day on safari should suffice. Many flights to Africa are routed through Europe; check to see if two round trips (one to Europe, one onward to Africa) are cheaper than a single purchase. Consider staying a few days in Amsterdam, London, or whichever city you're connecting through en route; airlines sometimes allow free stopovers. Packages that include airfare and a guided safari, like those featured in our 40 Best section, are often the best value. WHAT TO PACK FOR A SAFARI Check ahead of time if your game reserve lodge has laundry facilities (many do). That way, you can cut back on clothes and have more room for binoculars and other gear you'll want out on game drives. Shades and a hat with a big brim: You'll be out in the sun a lot. Chapstick, moisturizer, and sunscreen: The plains are dry and dusty, and the sun can be broiling. Layers: You'll need a sweater and a light coat for chilly evenings, as well as a raincoat or poncho for unpredictable downpours. Cover up as much as possible to avoid insect bites. Binoculars and a camera: Bring a zoom lens, too. The most exciting action is off in the distance. $200 cash per person for tips: Have lots of $1 bills handy for porters, waiters, and maids, as well as larger denominations to tip guides at trip's end. Luggage that's easy to carry: Waterproof backpacks and duffel bags are best. Bags with wheels are great at the airport, but not in the bush. Earth-tone clothing: Black absorbs heat, while white and other bright colors scare off animals. Don't wear camouflage: Locals may think you're in the military. Rugged, waterproof shoes: Take ones you don't mind getting dirty, as well as sandals or flip-flops you can switch into back at camp.

This Just In!

Within five years, 38 EasyHotels are expected to open in Pakistan, India, the Middle East, and North Africa. Effective July 1, visitors arriving in Mexico by plane or cruise ship don't have to pay taxes on purchases over $110. Frontier Airlines has five nonstops per day between San Francisco and L.A. starting June 29. Through the end of October, Hilton Garden Inn guests staying any night Thursday to Sunday are eligible for a free round of golf for two at 250 North American courses. British Airways cut fares to 65 European destinations (a London-Bordeaux flight costs as little as $52). Kiosks in 37 Hilton Hotel lobbies permit guests to check in for most flights--and even change seats and print boarding passes. JetBlue's rewards program, TrueBlue, now gives you two fully transferable passes when you earn 100 points; each is valid for a one-way flight anywhere the airline flies and is bookable online. EasyCruise is charging as little as $24 nightly per cabin on its new river cruises in Holland and Belgium. Eos, the all first-class airline flying from New York to London, has staffers who meet passengers curbside and fast-track them through check-in so they can arrive only 45 minutes before departure. Swiss Pass holders receive 50 percent off most cogwheel trains and cable cars, and free admission at over 400 museums in Switzerland. Adventurers in the Adirondacks now have something to see on rainy days. The Wild Center, a natural history museum opening July 4, has an indoor trout stream with an underwater viewing area (wildcenter.org). The world's third-largest waterfall was recently discovered in Chachapoyas, Peru; it's a five-hour trek from the nearest Amazon River-basin village. Named the Gocta waterfall, it will be open to visitors, via a road, in 2007. Every room at the new Crowne Plaza Chicago Metro hotel, in the West Loop, has a balcony and free "sleep kits" with a mask and lavender spray (crowneplaza.com). Through November, the FreeStayMaine program gives cruisers a voucher for one night at select hotels across the state (freestaymaine.com). At the Ingenuity Festival in Cleveland, July 7-16, look for slow-motion break-dancers in robotic costumes and a 3-D virtual-reality cave created by NASA (ingenuitycleveland.com). This July, the National Aquarium in Baltimore inaugurates a family sleepover program called Down Under Dreaming, with a behind-the-scenes tour, dinner, snack, and breakfast (aqua.org). It's now illegal to smoke in all public spaces in Colorado. Chukka Caribbean Adventures, a tour operator in Jamaica, will begin running dogsled tours this summer (chukkacaribbean.com). On July 8, pranksters will line up along the train tracks in Laguna Niguel, Calif., to moon Amtrak passengers; it's an annual event (moonamtrak.org). Berlin has a new $900 million central train station. Called the Hauptbahnhof, the glass-and-steel structure will eventually see over 1,000 trains a day passing through.

Keep Your Dog's Tail Wagging

To most pets, traveling ranks somewhere beneath a bath and the vet. Few people know more about taking their dogs on flights and into hotels than American Kennel Club staffers (akc.org). We hit them up for tips on making the experience easier for both pooches and owners. Be sure your pet's crate has extra hooks or latches so the door doesn't jostle open if it gets bounced around in transit. --Ray Scott, field representative, owner of Digby, a beagle Request to be on the hotel's first floor so you can be closer to the outdoors and avoid disturbing other guests. Ask where the correct exercise area is. And always bag it! --Laura C. Bollock, senior internal auditor, owner of Australian shepherds Tucker and Gulliver Most airlines accept reservations for carry-on pets ahead of time, but some companies may have a limit of three pets per flight: two that are reserved early, with the third on a first-come, first-served basis. Confirm the policy and book as early as possible. --Michelle Barlak, public relations coordinator, owner of toy Manchester terriers William and Daisy, and Alydar, an Ibizan hound Traveling with a big bag of dog food is inconvenient. Order food online before you leave, and have it delivered to the hotel. --Niki Marshall Friedman, public relations director, owner of Boston terriers Rocky and Buster Bring your dog's rabies certificate. It's the only vaccination required by law in all 50 states. Also, get a certificate from your vet 15 days before you travel that lists up-to-date inoculations, and search online for area animal hospitals. --Lisa Peterson, director of club communications, owner of Norwegian elkhounds Obie and Jinx Always have a photo of your pet in case he gets lost or stolen. That way you can make signs quickly. --Stacy Mason, field representative, owner of Cujo, a Brussels griffon I opt for Red Roof Inns or Baymont Inns because most locations don't charge pet fees. --Gail Storm, field representative, owner of border collies Lyn, Bea, Rip, and Tag Tip baggage handlers well, as they're the ones who are mainly responsible for your pet. --Michael Canalizo, field representative, owner of Silver,a German shepherd Research local dog parks or good walking spots near your hotel. --Bronwyn Taggart, AKC Gazette editor, owner of Henne's Baxter Beans ("Baxter"), a Boston terrier Get the hotel to confirm that it allows pets and to specify rules about sizes and surcharges. Don't rely on what's on the website. And if you leave the hotel, confine your pet to the carry crate so there's no chance he'll destroy the room. That can cost you a fortune. --Daphna Straus, director of business development, owner of Zabar, a Pembroke Welsh corgi