Designers' Favorite Museum Stores

At 7 A.M. on a Saturday, my friend Julia Sun and I stumble downstairs to the kitchen of Inn on the Common in Craftsbury Common, Vt. We sit on stools and pepper owner Jim Lamberti with questions about his job. "Everyone has a romantic view of what it's like to be an innkeeper," says Jim. "It's easy to do this one day a week. But seven?" His wife, Judi, joins us at 7:45. She's already prepared bills for the departing guests and done three loads of laundry. "Around here, it's called the Bob Newhart syndrome," she says. The Lambertis' inn is one of six members of the New England Inns & Resorts Association to offer an "Innkeeper for a Day" program. Our course consists of shadowing Jim and Judi, and occasionally pitching in. Julia harbors dreams of owning a B&B in Mexico. I wonder if this weekend might change her mind. Inn on the Common has 15 guest rooms in three separate buildings, and a restaurant that serves breakfast and dinner. "The housekeeping is the one thing we hire out," says Judi. The couple divide the other responsibilities: Judi is in charge of the cleaning staff and gardening, while Jim deals with marketing the inn and running the restaurant. The only time I ever see them together is in the kitchen. "It's good," says Jim. "If we spend all our time together, it gets a little wearing." Just before the other guests arrive for breakfast, Judi asks us to cut up strawberries. First we have to wash our hands to restaurant standards. "Scrub with soap for 20 seconds," Judi instructs. "You should be able to sing 'Happy Birthday' all the way through." We watch Jim prepare pancakes until we get hungry ourselves, then venture into the dining room. Most guests clear out of the inn by mid-morning. After breakfast, Jim washes dishes, then heads to the office to catch up on paperwork. Judi, meanwhile, sets tables for dinner (we help), bakes quiches for tomorrow's breakfast, and goes over the room list with the housekeepers when they arrive at 10 A.M. By noon Jim has finished prepping for dinner and is back in the office returning e-mails. Judi leaves to attend a fund-raiser. Julia and I¿who, frankly, can't wait for a change of scenery¿go for a drive. In the afternoon, we return to find Jim sitting on the porch with a glass of wine and a map. The inn closes for the months of April and November, and he's planning a trip to see their new grandchild in California. Watching them work their fingers to the bone today, I hadn't thought about any of the perks of owning an inn. I can see Julia filing away the idea of two solid months of vacation as a plus. Julia and I are so tuckered out that we leave Jim to his planning and nap until dinner. At 7 P.M., I head back to my perch in the kitchen to watch Jim prepare salads and sear swordfish steaks. When the phone rings, I understand how inconvenient it had been when I called for directions at about the same time the night before. In between seating guests and taking orders, Judi books a last-minute reservation. Once everyone slips off to their rooms, including Julia, Judi sets the tables for breakfast and enters dinner receipts into the computer. I don't see much I can do to help. "We don't like actually making people work," Judi later confesses. "People are paying for this course, and to make them work? Something is wrong with that picture." Inn on the Common, 800/521-2233, innonthecommon.com, two-day course for two, with room and meals, $499. New England Inns & Resorts Association, newenglandinnsandresorts.com.

Congress just passed the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative, which lets travelers return to the U.S. from the Caribbean by land or sea without a passport until June 2009. American citizens flying back to the U.S. will still need a valid passport as of January 8, 2007, the original deadline. The State Department estimates that about 73 percent of Americans don't have passports, and it has had trouble keeping up with the recent spike in demand. A seven-year, $91 million expansion of the Denver Art Museum opens to the public on October 7. Designed by the World Trade Center site's master planner Daniel Libeskind, the angular, titanium-clad building was inspired by the jagged peaks of the Rockies (denverartmuseum.org, $13). A historic partnership between the Musée du Louvre in Paris and Atlanta's High Museum of Art begins October 14 when the "Kings as Collectors" exhibit opens. Over the next three years, hundreds of paintings, sculptures, and antiquities from the Louvre will be exhibited in the U.S. for the first time (high.org, $15). George Washington's Mount Vernon estate has undergone a $100 million expansion. A new museum with six galleries will exhibit his family's personal items like furniture, books, china, and clothing--many of which will be on display at Mount Vernon for the first time. Highlights of the visitors center include an exact replica of the mansion in miniature (furniture and all) and a stained-glass window depicting key events in the president's life. Both buildings are scheduled to open on October 27 (mountvernon.org, $13). Berlin's Bode Museum--which showcases ancient coins, Byzantine art, and Germany's largest collection of sculptures--will reopen on October 18 after nearly a decade of renovations. Carib Aviation has launched a new company called Dominica Air Taxi, with interisland service between Dominica and either St. Lucia or Antigua. The 50-minute flights cost $79 each way (dominicaairtaxi.com). Pacsafe has introduced a duffel bag (above) made with the patented, slash-proof, stainless-steel mesh it uses in backpacks ($230). Several Florida theme parks--Walt Disney World, SeaWorld, Busch Gardens, and Universal Orlando--formally announced policies that guarantee you'll be able to reschedule a vacation without penalty or get your money back if a hurricane threatens the resort area or your hometown. Day passes to American Airlines' private lounges are being sold at self-serve airport kiosks: $50 for the first pass, and $25 each for two additional passes. Irish carrier Aer Lingus is charging $5 per checked bag if you reserve online (or $10 at the airport) on flights within Europe scheduled to depart after January 17. At sharedbook.com, users create photo albums with templates that match their vacation--the Yosemite book, for example, includes borders in the park's Native American motif, a John Muir quote, and park maps, as well as space for text and photos. US Airways dropped its 14-day-advance-purchase shuttle fares to $100 for a round trip between Boston and New York. The airline also has a new Bill Me Later option; with a special introductory offer, you can buy tickets through November 30, 2006, and not make any payments for the first 90 days.

Tempted to try an obscure varietal, but don't want to shell out $30 for a bottle you might not like? A handful of liquor stores and bars now allow you to help yourself to samples. It works like this: You put money on a debit card (or earn points on a card by buying a bottle of wine), insert the card into a slot, and push the button above the wine you want to taste. The Enomatic system dispenses an ounce into your glass and deducts the cost from the card. Prices range from $1 to $28, with most costing $2 to $3. In Texas, where self-service is illegal, wine jukeboxes (as the Enomatics are nicknamed) are operated by bartenders. Whether you push the button yourself or someone does it for you, the advantage is the same. Because the system hermetically seals bottles after each pour, some places are able to offer as many as a hundred wines by the glass. Cheers! Nora's Wine Bar & Osteria 1031 S. Rampart Blvd., Las Vegas, 702/940-6672 Stave Wine Lounge 1149 First St., Napa, Calif., 707/259-5411 Tastings 149 First Ave. N., St. Petersburg, Fla., 727/894-2255 Union Square Wine & Spirits 140 Fourth Ave., New York City, 212/675-8100 VinoVenue 686 Mission St., San Francisco, 415/341-1930 Wine'tastic 4140 Lemmon Ave., Dallas, 214/252-9494

FIVE COOL ROOMS 'Hood: Palermo Soho, a subsection of Palermo (B.A.'s trendiest barrio) near Plaza Serrano, where there are new restaurants and boutiques on every corner. First impression: Since its debut in March 2005, Five Cool Rooms has attracted a young, international crowd. Guests hang out around the chimenea (fireplace) in the central courtyard or on the roof terrace. Polished concrete, rattan furniture, and bamboo plants give public spaces a Zen feel. The rooms: The 16 rooms are labeled small, medium, and large. Medium rooms have balconies facing the street. The two large rooms--one of which has its own hot tub--overlook a quieter rear courtyard with a hammock. Plus: In addition to all the outdoor seating areas, there's a sleek modern living room furnished with chocolate-colored faux leather couches and a big-screen TV. Guests can help themselves to free Argentine wine. Minus: If you're settling in for more than a few nights, splurge on a medium or large room. The smalls are so tiny there's no room for even a suitcase stand. Details: Honduras 4742, 011-54/11-5235-5555, fivebuenosaires.com, from $90, including breakfast. KRISTA 'Hood: Palermo Hollywood, where the TV networks, film studios, and radio stations have set up shop. Models and actors make for great people-watching. First impression: An early-1900s mansion--formerly owned by Evita's personal doctor--with high archways, stained-glass windows, and marble floors, it's kind of like your rich great-aunt's house. It opened in March. The rooms: Each of the 10 large rooms is named for a different Argentine artist. The Victoria Ocampo (one of the country's greatest writers) has lilac walls, lace curtains, and a sheer canopy on the bed. In the Benito Quinquela Martín (known for his paintings of Buenos Aires's port), wood paneling evokes the inside of a ship. Plus: Owner Cristina Marsden, born and raised in B.A., is plugged in to the local nightlife and can recommend the best bars and nightclubs. Minus: Some of the renovations appear rushed: Several rooms are sloppily painted. Details: Bonpland 1665, 011-54/11- 4771-4697, kristahotel.com.ar, from $90, including breakfast. LA OTRA ORILLA 'Hood: Palermo Viejo, the most stately section of Palermo, full of century-old homes. It's where Jorge Luis Borges, Argentina's most celebrated writer, lived. First impression: Opened in June by mother-daughter duo Cecilia Ramos Mejía and Agustina Montoreano, La Otra Orilla has a French country vibe. Floral curtains, vintage area rugs, and mismatched antiques give it a casual, comfortable feel. The rooms: Seven guest rooms are painted in vibrant colors like tomato red and forest green. Two (Azul and Blanca) share a bathroom; all but Blanca are equipped with A/C (it has a ceiling fan). The Bamboo Room features sliding glass doors that open onto a garden that blooms with bougainvillea, jasmine, and hyacinth. Plus: When the weather is nice, breakfast is served alfresco, on a terra-cotta-colored patio. Honeymooners can have breakfast in bed at no additional cost. Minus: Reservation confirmations must be made by phone or e-mail 72 hours prior to arrival. No credit cards: Only cash is accepted (upon checkout). Details: Julián Alvarez 1779, 011-54/11-4867-4070, otraorilla.com.ar, from $30, including breakfast. 248 FINISTERRA 'Hood: Las Cañitas, between Palermo and Belgrano. The up-and-coming area is home to the polo grounds and some hot restaurants. First impression: The look is urban gaucho, with butter-soft leather, dark wood, and natural cottons. Pablo Badler transformed what was his grandmother's house into an elegant hotel, with the help of his mother and sister. They launched 248 Finisterra in May, after more than a year of construction (and it still smells of fresh paint). The rooms: The 11 rooms are done in soothing creams, pale greens, and sky blues, and furnished very simply with carefully chosen antiques. Tabletop light columns and striped throw pillows add a modern edge. Pablo's mother, Celia, makes sure there are fresh flowers in each room. Plus: The second-floor deck, with lounge chairs and a hot tub, is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of malbec. Bring one up from the wine bar on the ground floor. Minus: The hotel is fully booked until November 1 with a private party. (A big star is holed up there, but the owner won't say who it is.) Details: Baez 248, 011-54/11-4773-0901, 248finisterra.com, from $115, including breakfast. THE COCKER 'Hood: San Telmo, the oldest barrio in B.A. It's known as the birthplace of tango and famous for the Sunday-morning antiques fair in Plaza Dorrego. First impression: When it came to naming their hotel, English expat couple Ian Spink and Aidan Pass thought of their beloved three-year-old cocker spaniel, Rocco. The Cocker opened in June, and everything about it reflects the creative and fun-loving personalities of its owners. The rooms: Numbered for important dates in the owners' lives, the five rooms have double-height ceilings and French doors that lead to lovely terraces. Room 19-03 (Aidan's birthday) has a four-poster bed below a glass-walled loft bathroom. Doors lead to a private garden filled with evergreens, rosemary, and thyme. Plus: This winter (summer in Argentina), the Cocker will debut a roof terrace. Guests will sip cocktails while watching art films projected onto the neighboring building. The deck also offers panoramic views of the city. Minus: Rooms have small European-style wet rooms: There are no bathtubs, and showers aren't partitioned off from the sink and toilet areas. Details: Juan de Garay 458, 011-54/11-4362-8451, thecocker.com, from $70, including breakfast.