Scenic Trip Through Joshua Tree National Park

By David LaHuta
October 6, 2006
Joshua Tree National Park
Agap13 / Dreamstime.com
For a place that's pretty desolate, the California desert has a number of ways to get into trouble—as well as cinematic views and tremendous day hikes.

Day 1: Palm Springs to Desert Hot Springs

It must've been the brochure I was holding that tipped off the rental-car agent that I was heading to Joshua Tree National Park. "You know, the Joshua tree isn't a tree at all," he said as he handed over the keys to a navy PT Cruiser convertible. "It's a yucca." Legend has it that the yucca was renamed by Mormon settlers who thought its upraised limbs and scruffy-bearded appearance resembled the prophet Joshua leading them to the promised land--which seemed like a good enough reason to bring my friend Josh along on the trip.

With the ragtop down, we drive northwest on Indian Canyon Drive, and we're soon greeted by the wind farms of San Gorgonio Pass. The 60-foot-tall gray metal poles are intrusive, but striking, and in any event harnessing the wind is better than burning oil. With more than 4,000 turbines, the farm is one of world's largest, and since we're in a convertible, we can hear the propellers whirring every time we stop at a red light. They sound like gentle waves breaking in the clouds.

I'm eager to reach Desert Hot Springs, 50 miles south. Because it's built over a natural mineral-water aquifer, the town claims to have some of the world's best water. We backtrack a bit, as I'd made a reservation for a mud bath atTwo Bunch Palms--now a ritzy resort, it was originally built by Al Capone as his western hideout. Little do I know what I'm getting myself into--literally. It's called mud, but if the smell is any indication, it could be fertilizer for my mother's garden. After a half-hour-long, neck-deep soak, I'm treated to a hot mineral-water shower, a steam, and full use of the grounds, but it's not enough. I smell like manure the rest of the day. Josh thanks me yet again for renting us a convertible.

At 5 P.M. we leave Two Bunch Palms for our hotel, a pleasant spot called theEmerald Springs Resort and Spa. Our room has turquoise walls, black furniture, and white duvets, giving it a '50s vibe. We go swimming in all three of the hotel's heated mineral-water pools, in the shadow of the San Jacinto Mountains, surrounded by cacti and bougainvillea. We fall asleep early, in anticipation of our first day exploring Joshua Tree National Park.

Lodging

  • Emerald Springs Resort and Spa68055 Club Circle Dr., Desert Hot Springs, 760/288-0071, from $110

Activities

  • Two Bunch Palms Resort and Spa67425 Two Bunch Palms Trail, Desert Hot Springs, 800/472-4334, twobunchpalms.com, mud and steam $110 ($85 for hotel guests)

Day 2: Desert Hot Springs to 29 Palms

The coffee at Emerald Springs is exceptional--can it be the water? An elderly couple from Milford, Conn., believes in its power. For 25 years now, they've wintered in Desert Hot Springs solely for the rejuvenating effects of a good soak.

Josh and I hop in the car and head east on Highway 62, toward the West Entrance of Joshua Tree National Park. At nearly 800,000 acres, the park straddles two distinct deserts: the Mojave in the north, marked by craggy Joshua trees and moon-like rock formations, and the Colorado in the south, with wide-open vistas and jagged mountain peaks. Between the two lies the transition zone, with features from both plus cholla cactus gardens and patches of spidery ocotillo.

In the town of Joshua Tree, we stop at the Joshua Tree Visitor Center. There are no concessions inside the park, so we buy lots of water. The Park Service recommends one gallon per person per day, two gallons apiece in the summer.

It immediately feels as if we've been transported to prehistoric times. Boulders the size of dump trucks sit near spiky trees, and the air is fragrant with lavender and chia, which smells like sage. We're only a few miles into the park and already we're scoping out rocks to climb. At Quail Springs Picnic Area, we pull over near a sign that explains how bighorn sheep can go without water for 14 days. Interesting enough, but all we really care about are the rocks. We begin our ascent with carefully placed steps but can't avoid getting on all fours as we lumber up the granite formations. At the top of the biggest rock, we scan the desert for wildlife--the park is home to jackrabbits, coyotes, and bobcats, plus a population of birds that includes golden eagles and red-tailed hawks--but all we get are trees and boulders.

We drive on to Hidden Valley, popular with advanced climbers--sure enough, two fearless friends are scaling a sheer rock face. Josh and I decide that the Barker Dam nature trail is more our speed. The sandy path, just over a mile long, leads past turbinella oak and California juniper to one of the park's few man-made attractions, a small lake where ranchers used to feed their livestock. It's now a watering hole for desert animals and migrating birds. After snapping photographs of the surrounding area, aptly named Wonderland of Rocks, we explore the trail's end--or whatever the opposite of a trailhead is called--which is marked by red, black, and white petroglyphs left by migrating Native Americans.

Keys View, by far one of the park's best panoramas, is about five miles south. At nearly 5,200 feet above sea level--and despite a slight haze--we can see the entire Coachella Valley, including the Salton Sea, the town of Indio, and the San Jacinto Mountains.

While eating our picnic lunch at Jumbo Rocks campground, we talk to a crunchy couple from Vancouver, camping with their 10-month-old son, Viggo, and an adventurous foursome from Cincinnati, who have just returned from off-roading through a muddy riverbed. Afterward, we go to Skull Rock nature trail--named for a large anthropomorphic formation--and scramble over as many rocks as we can. Josh and I agree: We would've loved this place even more back when we were kids.

In Twentynine Palms, we've reserved a room at theHarmony Motel--where U2 stayed when they worked onThe Joshua Tree. It's dingy at best, but hey, that's rock and roll. For dinner, we go over to the poolside restaurant at nearby29 Palms Inn(we would have stayed there if it hadn't been fully booked). I opt for the pasta primavera, made with vegetables from the inn's garden, and Josh digs into teriyaki chicken, brushed with a tangy homemade sauce.

Lodging

  • Harmony Motel71161 Hwy. 62, Twentynine Palms, 760/367-3351, harmonymotel.com, from $70

Food

  • 29 Palms Inn73950 Inn Ave., Twentynine Palms, 760/367-3505, 29palmsinn.com, pasta primavera $10.25

Activities

  • Joshua Tree Visitor Center6554 Park Blvd., Joshua Tree, 760/366-1855, nps.gov/jotr

Day 3: 29 Palms to Indio

TheCrossroads Cafe & Tavernis 15 miles in a direction we weren't planning on heading, but everyone we talk to says we have to go there. The cheery restaurant, which has local artists' paintings on the walls, is run by mother-daughter duo Bonnie and Stacee LaGassa. We grab a seat in the back and order challah French toast stuffed with raspberry cream cheese and a plate of Willy Boy Hash, with shredded beef, bell peppers, red onions, and cheesy scrambled eggs. We also buy two lunches to go and are soon making a beeline to the park.

We enter near the Oasis of Mara, then make our way through the transition zone to the southern end. The scenery morphs: Joshua trees become sparser, cacti and creosote appear, and the air gets hotter and drier. In the distance we see craggy mountain peaks (instead of smooth rock formations) and the sweeping vistas of the Colorado Desert.

Our first stop is a cholla cactus garden, home to hundreds of chest-high cacti with fine, light-green needles. From a distance the chollas appear soft and fluffy, and even though signs everywhere warn you not to touch, I can't help myself. My second mistake is wearing a sweater that somehow attracts the chollas' needles. As annoying as the barrage of pinpricks is, it still beats smelling like manure.

Less than a mile down the road is an ocotillo patch. The tall, spindly shrubs resemble bright green shuttlecocks facing nose down. In spring, like plants all over the park, they sprout vibrant flowers; it's still winter, however, and there hasn't been enough rain for wildflowers to appear. Once back in the car, we continue south and eventually reach the Cottonwood Visitor Center. In the bookstore, we read up on the nearby Mastodon Peak trail.

Like most hikes, this three-mile loop has a payoff at the summit. The Eagle Mountains are visible in the distance, and when we yell, our voices echo on and on. Proud of our accomplishment, Josh and I head back down, drive 35 miles to Indio, and crash at aTravelodge.

Lodging

  • Travelodge80651 Hwy. 111, Indio, 760/342-0882, from $79

Food

  • Crossroads Cafe & Tavern61715 Hwy. 62, Joshua Tree, 760/366-5414, French toast $6

Day 4: Indio to Palm Springs

Our first stop of the day isShields Date Gardens, an old-fashioned roadside attraction that opened in 1924. The Coachella Valley produces 95 percent of U.S. dates, and the preferred way of eating them is in a date shake, or so I learn. I'm not a sweets-for-breakfast guy, but Shields' date shake--a blend of ice cream, milk, and two kinds of dates that've been dried into "crystals"--is delicious, even at 9 A.M. I savor it while watchingRomance and Sex Life of the Datein the movie theater. The film, made in the 1950s, explains the process of growing and picking dates, and inspires hours of "cheap date" jokes.

Chiriaco Summit, 30 miles east, is mostly a rest stop, as well as home to theGeneral Patton Memorial Museum. In 1942, the general headed a desert training center for soldiers bound for North Africa; it was the largest simulated theater of operations in the history of U.S. warfare. The museum is filled with World War II memorabilia, including 15 tanks outside.

It's lunchtime, so we grab a bite at theChiriaco Summit Coffee Shop. One General Patton burger and bowl of chili later, we're making our way towardOasis Date Gardensin Thermal. There's just enough time to work up the appetite for the second half of our date-shake taste test. We take a self-guided tour, and I can't resist breaking the rules and donning a hard-shelled costume (resembling a wide-eyed smiling date) left in a corner. I pose for funny pictures under the palm trees outside. As for the shakes, Shields's takes the blue ribbon.

We're nearly 15 miles from theSalton Sea Visitors Centerand already we smell the sulfur. Even on this beautiful day we're tempted to put the top up. The smell is due in part to the high salinity levels of the sea; it was created in 1905, when the Colorado River overflowed, flooding the Imperial Valley's salt beds. At 35 miles long and 15 miles wide, it's California's largest body of water, but of interest only to bird-watchers.

So we drive further south to Niland, gas up, and then turn around. Palm Springs is 80 miles away, and the sun is setting. We decide to race it, even though we know who always wins.

Food

  • Chiriaco Summit Coffee Shop62450 Chiriaco Rd., Chiriaco Summit, 760/227-3202, General Patton burger $8

Activities

  • Shields Date Gardens80-225 Hwy. 111, Indio, 760/347-7768, shieldsdates.com, shake $3.50
  • General Patton Memorial Museum62510 Chiriaco Rd., Chiriaco Summit, 760/227-3483, $4
  • Salton Sea Visitors Center100-225 State Park Rd., North Shore, 760/393-3052, parks.ca.gov

Finding your way

Joshua Tree National Park is at its most crowded from March through May, when the wildflowers are in bloom and the temperatures are still mild; if you're hoping to avoid the crowds, such as they are, consider visiting in the fall. Most major airlines serve Palm Springs International Airport, but if you're in the Los Angeles area, a day trip to the park isn't out of the question--the North Entrance (3.5 miles south of Twentynine Palms) is about 160 miles east of the city. Just be sure to enter the park with a picnic lunch and a full tank of gas, because there's nowhere to refuel once you've crossed the border.

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Switzerland

Years ago, Michael Fine, of Lake Ariel, Pa., received a brochure in the mail with photos of Switzerland's Bernese Alps. "I saw a blue sky, snow-covered mountains, and a meadow with the greenest grass," says Michael. "I thought, This place seems like it's pretty close to paradise. I want to walk there." Michael and his wife, Tamra (Tammy), are in what she calls their "fit 50s" and in recent years have gone dogsledding in Alaska and parasailing in Fiji. They both work in the classical music field--he's a Grammy-winning producer--and Michael has been to Lucerne and Zürich many times on business. But this autumn, they're finally going to explore Switzerland's mountains. "We want to base ourselves in one place and become locals for a week," says Tammy. The Fines are looking for beautiful scenery on hikes and a relaxing meal and bottle of wine at the end of each day. "For us, it's the smell of the air, the natural sounds, the light," says Michael. "We much prefer the sound of distant cowbells to that of traffic or nightclubs," adds Tammy. The Jungfrau region of the Bernese Alps, renowned for its jagged peaks, green valleys, and wintertime ski slopes, offers everything the Fines seek. After we discuss mountain villages in the area with the Fines, they narrow the choice to Gimmelwald, Mürren, and Wengen. All three feature car-free streets, ample hiking trails, and epic views. "Michael was pushing for Gimmelwald," says Tammy. "But with only one hotel, a hostel, a couple guesthouses, and a single restaurant, I was afraid it might not be the best fit." They eventually choose Mürren because it's a bit smaller than Wengen and yet still has plenty of options for lodging and food. "I looked on Google Earth and saw that Mürren was basically hanging on a mountain cliff," says Michael. "It seems relatively inaccessible, small, and tranquil." Wondering what to pack for their visit in late September, Tammy asks, "What should we expect weather-wise?" Mürren is at an altitude of 5,413 feet, and while days are often sunny and temperatures sometimes stretch into the low 70s in early fall, warm clothes are essential. Snow is not uncommon even in September. The Fines are tacking on the week in Switzerland after a business trip to the Netherlands. They'll fly from Amsterdam to Basel, where they'll board a train to Lauterbrunnen, take a bus to the town of Stechelberg, and finally ride an aerial tram to Mürren. "There's a bewildering array of rail passes to choose from," says Tammy. "Which will be the best for us?" The three-day Flexi Saver Pass ($150 each, raileurope.com) is good for travel on public trains, buses, trams, and boats. The pass will cover their journeys to and from the airport, as well as a day trip to Interlaken or some other destination. It also gives free admission to most Swiss museums and a 50 percent discount on private mountain trams and railways--which will come in handy, since the mountain trams that lead to Mürren and to many outstanding hiking trails are privately owned. Michael asks if there's someplace secure to store his bulky suitcase during the Mürren portion of the trip. Interlaken Ost, a train hub on the way to Mürren, has lockers, but they require a coin feed every 24 hours. Instead, he should check his bag with the station's luggage attendant, for about $7 per day. "We don't need luxury lodging, but do want to be comfortable," says Tammy. "A cute chalet guesthouse is fine, and a room with a balcony and a view is wonderful." Because the Fines also like the idea of having a kitchen, they book an apartment suite at the Chalet Fontana. Denise Fussell, an expat from England, manages the lodge and is an excellent source of advice on hiking routes. "To us, food that's fresh and regional is of more interest than haute cuisine or Michelin stars," says Tammy. A grocery store in Mürren sells the basics, and the Fines can also take a 45-minute stroll to a neighboring village, Winteregg, where the Staubbach Alpine Dairy turns milk into cheese, yogurt, and butter, available for purchase. There's no need for a map or addresses in any of these villages--with only a few houses and businesses and many friendly people who speak English, everything is easy to find. Since the Fontana is only available for the Fines' first three nights, they book the remainder of their week at the family-run Hotel Alpina. Their second-floor room costs $129 a night and has a balcony overlooking the mountains. "I foresee sunsets spent sipping a nice Swiss white, feet up on our railing, watching the colors change on the mountains," says Tammy. Michael's birthday falls during the trip, and the Fines plan on celebrating with a special meal. They could head on a tram to the mountaintop Schilthorn restaurant, featured in the James Bond film On Her Majesty's Secret Service. The restaurant platform revolves 360 degrees so patrons can take in the full view without leaving their seats. The first tram leaves Mürren at 7:25 A.M., and a special James Bond 007 breakfast ($18), which includes scrambled eggs and a glass of Prosecco, is served until 10:45 A.M. Alternately, a lunch at the summit can be magnificent. Either way, the point is the view, not the food. For a truly authentic--and filling--meal, the Fines could order a Jäger Spiess ($28), typically served in the autumn hunting season, at Restaurant Jägerstübli. The dish consists of skewers of veal, beef, and roe deer meat roasted over a small fire by the table. If all that meat sounds like overkill, they could go to Restaurant Stägerstübli for a different Swiss signature dish--like raclette ($12), a specially melted cheese served with potatoes. To complete the Swiss experience, they should wash down their cheese dishes with kirsch, a cherry schnapps. "Hiking is the best attitude adjuster in the world," says Michael. "It gives you time to think, to be inspired." The Swiss have hiking down to a science. Trails are marked with little yellow signs that often give estimated walking times. The most popular trails are dotted with Alpine huts that have big decks and hot food. While riding the Schilthornbahn tram to or from the revolving restaurant, the Fines might get off at Birg, a midpoint between Mürren and the peak. From there they can hike 45 minutes down to the Schilthornhütte. The rustic mountain hut serves bratwurst, pasta, and other hearty dishes, which most guests eat on outdoor picnic tables. Tammy and Michael could also hike for two hours directly from Mürren to the Rotstockhütte for a casual lunch. If they're up for it, they might press on two hours further to Sefinenfurgge pass and more spectacular views. Along the way, there's a good chance they'll encounter mountain goats, ibex, and marmots. Another trail from Mürren leads to Lauterbrunnen's Trümmelbach Falls, a set of roaring waterfalls in a dramatic slot canyon. To mix things up, Michael and Tammy plan to go bicycling one day. "We don't want to do any technical mountain riding, just some gentle terrain," says Tammy. Easy bike routes circle Interlaken's pair of stunning blue lakes, and the Interlaken Ost train station rents bikes for $21 to anyone with a Flexi Pass. There's no guaranteeing Mother Nature will cooperate for a day of cycling, so we suggest a backup excursion. From Interlaken, they can take a train to Locarno and board a ferry to Ascona, a town on Lake Maggiore where locals speak Italian. If they time the trip right, the Fines will arrive for Le Settimane Musicali di Ascona, an event we're sure they'll enjoy. It's a classical music festival. Lodging Chalet Fontana Mürren, 011-41/33-855-4385, muerren.ch, from $94 Hotel Alpina Mürren, 011-41/33-855-1361, muerren.ch/alpina, from $114 Food Staubbach Dairy Winteregg, 011-41/79-275-3577 Schilthorn 011-41/33-826-0007, schilthorn.ch Jägerstübli Mürren, 011-41/33-855-1401 Stägerstübli Mürren, 011-41/33-855-1316 Schilthornhütte 011-41/33-855-5053, bratwurst plate $13 Rotstockhütte 011-41/33-855-2464 Activities Interlaken Ost 011-41/33-828-7319 Le Settimane Musicali di Ascona 011-41/91-785-1965, settimane-musicali.ch, from $16 How was your trip? Marney Jones and Tarsha White had a fantastic time in Jamaica, where Tarsha was born and raised--and will soon be married to Marney's son John. "We want to thank you for the great coaching," says Marney. A day of Jet Skiing, swimming, and lunch donated by the Goldeneye resort (where this picture was taken) was a highlight. "They gave us the use of a villa, and made us feel so pampered and so at home. We felt like movie stars!" The group also had a blast while staying at the RIU resort. "I won the Jamaican dance contest," says Marney, "with the help of rum punches!"

Trip Coach: October 3, 2006

BT Editors: Welcome to this week's Trip Coach. Let's get to your questions! _______________________ Janesville, WI: About 1 year ago (I think) there was an article in Budget Mag. giving e-mail sites to home exchange for a vacation or if you'd like to stay in a home in a different city/country without offering a stay in our home. Please send me a list of those sites. Thank you. BT Editors: You're probably thinking about this article: "Make Yourself at Home."It includes tips for first-time home exchangers and websites for major home-exchange networks in the U.S. _______________________ Columbus, OH: Me and my sister want to take our niece to Riviera Maya as a college graduation gift in June 2007. We are in are late 30's and she is 21. We want all inclusive and alot of night life. Can you direct me where we can stay? BT Editors: Sure. We wrote about five all-inclusive resorts on Mexico's Riviera Maya. The popular Gala Beach Resort Playacar (877/888-4252, galaresorts.com.mx) is 45 minutes south of the Cancún airport and the southernmost resort in the lush gated community of Playacar. The resort is spread over a large swath of acreage, so it feels quiet at first, but there are plenty of on-site restaurants and activities to keep you busy. There's also a wealth of off-campus offerings in the Yucatán--Mayan ruins, ATVs, horseback riding.Or, if you prefer a smaller "boutique" all-inclusive, Sunscape Tulum (866/786-7227, sunscaperesorts.com) has only 232 rooms and resembles an elegant hacienda. But perhaps its coolest feature is its proximity to the famed Mayan city of Tulúm. The Sunscape is the southernmost resort before the coastline turns wild and winds in toward the ruins.Read about these and three other all-inclusives: The Easy, Breezy Riviera Maya. _______________________ Rancho Cucamonga, CA: My husband and I often find ourselves with a few days here and there with only a week or two notice to plan a small inexpensive trip. We would love to take advantage of discount airlines' last minute deals but once we decide on a city, what's the best and fastest way to plan everything else? Or is this the worst way to go about planning a last minute trip? This might be too general to ask but I'm sure a lot of young couples with little time and small budgets think about this. Thanks! BT Editors: Try searching for last-minute trips at Site59.com, a website specializing in discounted last-minute air/hotel, air/car, or car/hotel vacation packages. While destinations and dates are limited (you can only search up to two weeks in advance), packages are discounted up to 70% while still earning frequent flier miles on your flights. For example, a quick search turned up a weekend package from nearby Ontario, Calif. to Phoenix, Ariz. from $191 per person, including airfare, two nights' accomodations, taxes, and fees. Or fly to Seattle, Wash. and stay for two nights from $258 per person. _______________________ Chatham, IL: What website is the best to order first class reserved train tickets in Italy? Not looking for passes but for intermittent travel between, say, Rome to Florence and then Florence to Venice? Also a site that does not charge an extra fee for the service. Can I print or get the ticket on line? Thanks BT Editors: Go straight to the source--the official website of Italy's rail system, Trenitalia. You can price out train tickets for various types of service and make purchases online. Eurostar trains are the nicest, fastest option, and make the trip between Florence and Rome in about an hour and a half. You have two choices for how to obtain the tickets. Free ticketless service allows you to print out your email confirmation and bring in onboard the train in lieu of a ticket; self-service, also free, requires you to print out your ticket from a self-service machine at an Italian train station before boarding. (Home delivery is available for €3.35, but only within Italy.) For advice on making the most of your visit, consult our Rome Snap Guide and Eat Like a Local: Florence and Venice. _______________________ Seattle, WA: My fiancé and I are traveling to Cape Town South Africa in November. We need suggestions on places to stay (B&B) in a cool area that won't break our budget. BT Editors: Our free downloadable Cape Town Snap Guide is full of insider tips on hip, affordable places to stay, shop, eat, and play. Here are a few B&Bs to get you started: An African Villa, a 12-room guesthouse in the city with a pool and rates from $100; Dunkley House, a hidden haven in a gentrified neighborhood of narrow one-way streets and Victorian homes, with rates from $114; or Rosedene Lodge, on a quiet lane behind Sea Point's busy main road, just a couple of blocks from the water, with rates from $92 in the off-season. Before you go, read 25 Reasons We Love Cape Town. _______________________ St. Louis, MO: Do you know anything about a travel company called Maxxim Vacations based in St. John, Newfoundland, Canada? They have escorted trips as well as independent trips. Thanks. BT Editors: Yes! We regularly highlight travel packages organized by Maxxim Vacations, which specializes in travel to Eastern and Atlantic Canada, and our experience has been that they offer reliable, affordable service. As you mention, their options cover independent fly-and-drive packages, fully escorted bus tours, and even customized packages. One of our recent Real Deals, Flavors of Quebec, detailed a Maxxim Vacations package including airfare, six nights in B&Bs and hotels throughout Quebec, and a rental car from $1,109 per person. Over the summer, Maxxim's Prince Edward Island package caught our eye: airfare, three nights, and rental car from $749 per person. Both packages are still up for grabs. _______________________ Philadelphia, PA: A friend and I are unable to find group tours to Corsica, other than Kalliste Tours, which costs almost $7,000 for one week (without airfare)! We could go at any time of the year. Independent travel is not an option because neither of us likes to drive, and we understand that train and public bus transportation on the island are infrequent. BT Editors: Yikes! While group tours to Corsica are hard to come by, you shouldn't have to settle for such a hefty tab. In spring and summer 2007, Adventure Center has a seven-night trip to Calvi, Corsica, with guided walks, breakfast daily, and five dinners from $790 per person (airfare is additional). It would also be worth contacting Corsica's tourism board. Their deals section has no current listings for U.S. travelers, but they may know of tour operators that offer trips to Corsica. Good luck! _______________________

50 Utterly Charming Hotels Around $100

As travel editors, we're not supposed to use the word charming--it's a cliché, and it doesn't really mean anything. (What your Aunt Phyllis finds charming may make your teeth itch, and vice versa.) But a hotel with some real personality, where rooms start at around $100....Well, that has a certain charm, doesn't it? ARGENTINA Casa Monserrat Tango Hotel Buenos Aires has seen a bunch of contemporary hotels open in the past couple of years, but this older hotel is more classic. It's a house built in 1880, in the Monserrat section of the city. Tango lessons and itineraries can be arranged. 011-54/11-5917-7710, tenriverstenlakes.com, from $60, includes breakfast and tax. Home A British expat (Tom Rixton) and his Argentine-Irish wife (Patricia O'Shea) opened Home last December after they couldn't find suitable places in the Palermo Hollywood neighborhood of Buenos Aires for their wedding guests to stay. He's a music producer, which explains why there are iPod connectors in the 17 pretty rooms. Room service is available 24 hours a day. 011-54/11-4778-1008, homebuenosaires.com, from $115, includes breakfast. Vinas de Cafayate Wine Resort Located in the Salta region of northwest Argentina, the resort was constructed recently, but with the character of an old estancia. Every room has a balcony with vineyard views. The furniture looks like it was chosen by a monk with money. 011-54/11-5917-7710, tenriverstenlakes.com, from $75, includes breakfast and tax. AUSTRIA Hotel Daniel Like many members of the Design Hotels group, the Daniel--in Graz, Austria's second-largest city--has a cool, minimal aesthetic. The fun shines through: There are rain showers in the bathrooms, and the hotel rents Vespas starting at $19 a half-day. The Daniel is owned by the Weitzer family, the city's largest hotel operator. Rates are the same for singles and doubles. 011-43/316-711-080, hoteldaniel.com, from $75, includes tax. BRAZIL Anima Hotel The Anima is a collection of nine environmentally sensitive bungalows outside Morro de Sao Paulo, on the island of Tinhare. (It's two hours by boat from Salvador de Bahia.) Each has a private outdoor shower; four have decks with hot tubs. The resort is on 15 acres of forest, and there's a shuttle into the village (free until 10 p.m.), when the isolation--and the 88-yard-long beach--simply become too much. 011-55/75-3652-2077, animahotel.com, from $84, includes breakfast and use of snorkeling equipment. CAMBODIA FCC Hotel Angkor The old French governor's estate in Siem Reap has retained a colonial-outpost vibe, especially in the bar: It opens at 7 a.m., and is a popular expat scene (half-price cocktails during happy hour). Rooms are named after local spices. The chic hotel is a bike ride from Angkor Wat; if the effort is too taxing, a 90-minute hot-stone massage at the spa costs just $60. 011-855/63-760-280, fcccambodia.com, from $90, includes breakfast, welcome drink, and airport pickup. Shinta Mani Located in the old French Quarter of Siem Reap, Shinta Mani is affiliated with the Institute of Hospitality, where young Cambodians at risk learn the hotel business. Shinta Mani also makes it easy for guests to help the community--they can give in advance, and then, when they arrive, meet the people who received school clothes and supplies ($15), a bicycle ($46), a pair of piglets ($70), or even a house ($1,000). The restaurant is just terrific, and there's a small pool, handy for getting rid of the day's dust. 011-855/63-761-998, shintamani.com, from $66. FRANCE Le Degoutaud Veronique and Pierre Marin run a working farm--with fruit and olive orchards--in the Provencal town of Malaucene, where you can rent a room or a "boarding house," furnished cabins with kitchens and laundry facilities (weekly rentals only). The hospitality is as warm as the decor is rustic. Veronique cooks the communal dinner, served alfresco in summer. A pool juts into the countryside. 011-33/4-90-62-99-29, degoutaud.fr, from $76, includes breakfast; cabins from $621 per week. Hostellerie le Castellas This country inn in the Provencal village of Collias is composed of several 17th-century houses. Rooms are elegant without being stiff: Local fabrics, wood beams, and the occasional freestanding tub add character. (One bathroom is done completely in river stones.) The restaurant has a Michelin star. 011-33/4-66-22-88-88, lecastellas.fr, from $101. Hotel de Nesle Paris's Hotel de nell, as it's pronounced, prides itself on its bohemianism--which is another way of saying it's as quirky as can be. Twenty rooms, individually overdecorated, hide on a quiet street in Saint Germain. There's a garden, and the Antinea room has a hammam that other guests can use when the room isn't booked. Reservations are taken by telephone. 011-33/1-43-54-62-41, hoteldenesleparis.com, $95, includes tax. Le Mas du Loriot While the rooms tend toward the anonymous, all but one have terraces, and the views and the grounds are spectacular. The hotel is in the Luberon Regional Nature Park, in Provence, and surrounded by lavender, cypress, and pine trees. Owners Christine and Alain Thillard are happy to point you to antique fairs and markets. Note: Breakfast on the terrace is a must. 011-33/4-90-72-62-62, masduloriot.com, from $63 ($120 with terrace). Les Roulottes de la Serve A roulotte is like a French covered wagon, traditionally home to traveling-fair people. While many French inns have taken to putting one in the backyard and calling it a room, Les Roulottes, in the Beaujolais region, has only roulottes--two, to be precise (three as of April, to be even more precise). It's run by Pascal and Pascaline Patin, who bought the land 18 years ago for their horses (and opened it to guests in 1999), and accepts guests April through October. 011-33/4-74-04-76-40, lesroulottes.com, $60, includes breakfast. FRENCH POLYNESIA Pension Mauarii On the island of Huahine--a 35-minute flight from Tahiti--the Pension Mauarii nimbly walks the fine line between Polynesian flair and kitsch. The chalets have hand-thatched roofs with flaps that let the breezes in. A staffer is on hand to organize wakeboard and scooter rentals, and the restaurant, which serves three meals a day, is on stilts at the water's edge. 011-689/688-649, mauarii.com, from $77. GERMANY Hotel Askanischer Hof No one is going to confuse the old-fashioned Askanischer Hof--on the Ku'damm in Berlin--with a hipster hangout. Vintage photos line the walls, and knickknacks congregate in every nook. But lest you think the guests are all in bed by 10 p.m., note that something about the place must be decadent if it's appealed to the likes of David Bowie and Helmut Newton. 011-49/30-881-8033, askanischerhof.de, from $120. 25Hours Hotel One look at the black-leather-ish front desk studded with pink plastic bubbles, and you know you're somewhere interesting. 25Hours, in Hamburg, has 95 rooms that blend contemporary style and retro touches. The hotel tries to foster a sense of community with big tables in the restaurant, and a Wohnzimmer, or living room, that has a fireplace and chessboard. The simple roof terrace is a breath of fresh air. (Discounts are often offered to folks under 25.) 011-49/40-855-070, 25hours-hotel.de, from $128. GREECE GREECE Archontikon Located in the region of Zagori is Archontikon, a pair of mansions originally built in 1865 and 1873, now with just 10 rooms total. The style feels modern without being minimalist; there's even a bourgeois whiff about the rich color scheme and "embroidered" ceilings. (It's reminiscent of the U.S. brand Hotel Monaco.) Guests are welcome to use the kitchen--which has a vaulted stone ceiling--to prepare a dinner. The staff will even buy the necessary ingredients. 011-30/21068-89249, countryclub.gr, from $128, includes breakfast and tax. Koryschades A village-like settlement in the mountainous Evritania region of the mainland, Koryschades comprises five stone houses, with a main building holding the bar and the restaurant (the only one in the village, but there are tavernas a decent walk away). Each house has its own garden; in the house called Anatole, there's an indoor pool open to all guests. In winter, you'll want to request a room with a stone fireplace. 011-30/22370-25102, koryschades.com.gr, from $64, includes breakfast and tax. Kyrimai A jumble of old buildings, including a warehouse and a tower, has been restored by the Kyrimis family, in a port town on the southernmost tip of Peloponnisos. (It's a four-hour drive from Athens.) The look is effortlessly elegant, with soothing tones that defer to the gorgeous stonework, some of which dates to the 19th century. The restaurant sits harborside. 011-30/27330-54288, kyrimai.gr, from $103, includes breakfast and tax. Liostasi Ios When you shut your eyes and imagine your multimillion-dollar Greek villa, this is what you see: boxy white buildings on a hillside with views of the Aegean. The resort, on the island of Ios (a half-hour high-speed-ferry ride from Santorini), feels a smidge nouveau riche, but that's better than no riche at all. The 30 rooms all have air-conditioning and satellite TV, and they share a beautiful pool. 011-30/22860-92140, liostasi.gr, from $83, includes breakfast, tax, and transfers. Papaevangelou Hotel George and Markella Papaevangelou's hotel looks like it wandered over from Provence because it liked the views better in the National Park of Northern Pindos. Located in Megalo Papingo, in Zagori, the hotel is a collection of stone buildings with rough-hewn wood beams. There are 14 rooms (four are cottages with fireplaces), and almost as many types of homemade jam at the luscious breakfast. 011-30/26530-41135, papaevangelou.gr, from $89, includes breakfast and tax. INDIA Neemrana Fort-Palace The setting is rather extraordinary: a massive Rajasthani palace, dating to the 15th century, that cascades down from a plateau, about 60 miles from the Delhi airport. It's spread out over six acres, with 11 levels, so almost every room has a terrace or balcony--in fact, even many of the bathrooms have views of the desert. 011-91/11-2435-6145, neemranahotels.com, from $98, includes morning and evening coffee or tea. INDONESIA Hotel Vila Ombak On Gili Trawangan--off Bali's neighbor, Lombok--there are no cars or motorbikes (you can get around by horse-drawn cart and by bike), and there's very little man-made light at night. Guests at the Hotel Vila Ombak stay in traditional Lombok huts with an upstairs bedroom (with large balconies) and a downstairs living area. After dark, guests often dance to live music on the beach; the full-moon parties are a highlight. Divers love it here; you can get certified at the hotel. 011-62/370-642-336, hotelombak.com, from $67, includes welcome drink, breakfast, fruit basket, and tax. ITALY B&B San Marco Here's a rare Venetian value: a bed-and-breakfast that looks like it's where Lucy Honeychurch from A Room With a View would've stayed in Venice (except for the fact that the three rooms share a bath; an apartment is also for rent). Speaking of rooms with views: Whether your window overlooks rooftops or a canal, you'll be very pleased. The building was Marco Scurati's family home; he converted it to a B&B after it was left to him. At breakfast--there's a spread of food and an espresso machine, which Marco will show you how to work--you can ask him for advice on what to see and do in Venice. 011-39/041-522-7589, realvenice.it/smarco, from $101. ITALY Domus Orsoni B&B Famous for its glass tiles, the Orsoni family has a compound in the Cannaregio district of Venice. A few years ago, patriarch Lucio Orsoni opened a five-room B&B inside. (The tile factory is downstairs, the lodging upstairs.) Mosaic classes are available, but not mandatory. But after spending time coveting the tile work throughout, you may not be able to resist them. 011-39/041-275-9538, domusorsoni.it, from $101, includes breakfast and tax. LAOS Les 3 Nagas Many of the 15 rooms, spread over two of the hotel's three colonial-era buildings, have balconies; all of them are excellent examples of how well Southeast Asia handles minimalist design. In the morning, watch as monks in saffron robes make their way down the streets of Luang Prabang. 011-856/71-253-888, 3nagas.com, from $85, includes breakfast and tax (five percent discount for anyone booking at least three nights online). MALAYSIA Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion An irresistible old property in Georgetown, Penang, built in the 19th century by the "Rockefeller of the East," Cheong Fatt Tze. It's also known as La Maison Bleue, because early French visitors couldn't say the real name. The palpable sense of history easily makes up for room decor that can't always hold its own against the marvelous public spaces. The staff prides itself on its good advice, sending guests to street-food stalls and old Chinese coffee shops. 011-604/262-0006, cheongfatttzemansion.com, from $68, includes breakfast. MEXICO Eden Beach Hacienda Eva Robbins and Jim Garrity left the corporate world in 1996 to open an inn in Mexico. But they didn't know where to go. When they hit Troncones, north of Zihuatanejo and Ixtapa, they knew they'd found their spot. The original six-room hacienda is just a little scruffy, in a homey way; there are also newer rooms in adjacent buildings. The restaurant has a patio with sunset views, and a wood-burning oven where bread is baked daily. Kids 5 and under are not allowed. 011-52/755-553-2802, edenmex.com, from $85, includes breakfast and tax. Hotel Marionetas As its name implies, the Marionetas is a former puppet theater, renovated by Daniel and Sofi Bosco, six blocks from the main plaza in the Yucatan city of Merida. The eight rooms are spare but very comfortable. The breakfast, served outside, tends to include homemade breads and fresh fruit, such as mangoes and papayas. 011-52/999-928-3377, hotelmarionetas.com, from $70, includes breakfast and tax. Hotel Tierra Maya Leave the hairdryer at home: The Tierra Maya in Xcalak National Park (in Quintana Roo) is self-sustaining, meaning it gets most of its energy from the sun and uses rain as its water supply. You'll hardly suffer, though: All rooms feature balconies with views over the white-sand beach. The restaurant serves breakfast and dinner. For lunch, walk to the Mayan restaurants nearby. 800/216-1902, tierramaya.net, from $70, includes breakfast and use of bikes, snorkeling gear, and kayaks. The Todos Santos Inn The Todos Santos Inn is a 19th-century hacienda built by a sugar baron, in the old part of Todos Santos in Baja California. It's a grown-up place--no kids under 12--filled with antiques. The most affordable rooms share a terrace. A wine bar is on the premises, and if you want to learn Spanish, language lessons and programs can be arranged. 011-52/612-14-50040, todossantosinn.com, from $115, includes breakfast. Villa Amor What's not to love? The 35 villas at aptly named Villa Amor--24 miles north of Puerto Vallarta--have living areas open to the Pacific, and private plunge pools to boot. For even more romance, go horseback riding on the beach, or have a boat take you to a private beach for a picnic. 011-52/329-291-3010 or 619/822-2731, villaamor.com, from $75, includes use of snorkeling equipment, bodyboards, kayaks, and bicycles. Zamas Is there a nicer phrase than "bungalows on the beach"? Zamas, south of Playa del Carmen in Tulum, is ideal for anyone seeking a barefoot vacation. It's owned and operated by Susan Bohlken and Daniel McGettigan, who moved from San Francisco in 1993 after visiting the area on their honeymoon. Zamas is solar- and wind-powered, and often has live music, especially during the high season of winter. 415/387-9806, zamas.com, $80 (no credit cards). MONTSERRAT Gingerbread Hill Innkeepers David and Clover Lea (and their kids) will show you a down-home side of the Caribbean you won't find most anywhere else. David is a volcanologist, and he leads tours exploring the island and its volcano. There are mango and banana trees where you can grab a snack (if the fresh fruit in your room isn't enough), and chickens laying eggs for breakfast. 664/491-5812 or 813/774-5270, volcano-island.com, from $45, includes airport transfers. MOROCCO Kasbah Ait Ben Moro You can pay $600 a night to stay in a Moroccan kasbah, but you don't have to. Kasbah Ait Ben Moro is an unbelievable 18th-century fortress--by a 58-square-mile palm grove--in Skoura, halfway between Marrakech and Erfoud. The High Atlas Mountains provide a dramatic backdrop. Aziz, the manager, will make you feel very welcome. 011-212/24-85-21-16, kasbahbenmoro.com, from $84, includes breakfast and tax. NETHERLANDS Hotel Arena In its 116 years, the building that's now home to Amsterdam's Hotel Arena has seen many of the stages of life: It has been an orphanage, a senior citizens' home, and a youth hostel. In the 1990s, the building--located in Oost, the eastern part of the city--was turned into a hotel. The 133 rooms are straightforward, with wood floors and hints of Dutch design. The cafe and restaurant are much more exuberant (and the nightclub is downright slamming). The hotel's terrace is popular with locals, too. 011-31/20-850-2400, hotelarena.nl, from $103. PORTUGAL Estalagem da Ponta do Sol All clean lines and breezy white fabrics, this full-service resort sits on a cliff top on the southern edge of Madeira, a Portuguese island in the Atlantic. The views are breathtaking: Each of the 54 rooms has a balcony with a transparent wall, so you can look through it instead of having to look over it. There are two pools (indoor and outdoor), a gym, and free access to tennis courts. The pebble beach is a three-minute walk away. 011-351/291-970-200, pontadosol.com, from $140 (discounts for stays of three nights and longer), includes breakfast, tax, and airport transfers (for stays of at least two nights). SCOTLAND Dun Na Mara Considering it's a big white house on the shores of Loch Nell, near the Scottish village of Benderloch, Dun Na Mara could've easily gone twee on the inside. Innkeepers Mark McPhillips and Suzanne Pole, architects from Edinburgh, went in a more subdued direction. Rooms are airy and calm, as if they've been art-directed. There's nothing light about the full Scottish breakfast, however. 011-44/1631-720-233, dunnamara.com, from $157, includes breakfast and tax. SOUTH AFRICA Daddy Long Legs When you wake up at Daddy Long Legs, you may not be able to tell where your dreams end and the decor begins. Artists and other Cape Town creative types did the 13 rooms in the art hotel (there are also apartments that are less crazy): One room involves 2,500 rolls of Mentos; another is plastered with wallpaper made of hundreds of sunset snapshots; and another--well, take a look at our contents page. 011-27/21-422-3074, daddylonglegs.co.za, from $53. The Village Lodge Good taste reigns supreme at this hotel in De Waterkant village, Cape Town's gay neighborhood. There are 32 rooms in the compound; kids are not encouraged to stay in the main lodge, so families may prefer the villa annex down the street (which has access to all the hotel services). The Soho Restaurant serves delicious Thai cuisine. 011-27/21-421-1106, thevillagelodge.com, from $75, includes breakfast. SPAIN Hostal d'Uxelles There's something about this hotel in Barcelona that just feels sweet: The rooms have good bones, with molding on the walls and ceilings, nice tile floors, and old-world bathrooms. Try for a room with a terrace--especially in warm months, as there's no air-conditioning. 011-34/93-265-2560, hotelduxelles.com, from $103. THAILAND Costa Lanta The warm character of the Thai people contrasts interestingly against the slick modernism of Costa Lanta, where walls of concrete and gleaming wood, and furniture that could've come off an Italian yacht, are the norm. It was designed by a young, award-winning architect from Bangkok, Duangrit Bunnag. The resort is away from the beach so as not to disturb the ecology of Ko Lanta Yai. Rooms come with flip-flops--and umbrellas, because the rainy season lasts from May to November. 011-66/75-684-630, costalanta.com, from $81, includes breakfast and tax. Panviman The lowest rates at Panviman resort, on Ko Phangan, used to be for rooms in the hotel building, but when it's done being renovated in December, they'll have been upgraded. That will make the most affordable option one of the cottages dotting the island's hillside. The standard cottages start at $88; the deluxe ones (from $139) have gorgeous woodwork and open-air bathtubs. Downstairs is a private beach and a swanky pool. 011-66/77-445-101, panviman.com/phangan, from $88, includes breakfast and tax. TURKEY Dersaadet Hotel Istanbul is Europe's nightlife hotspot, but it's still 1950 at the Dersaadet, and that's just fine, thank you. It's a former sultan's palace. Expect parquet floors with handmade kilim carpets, stately furniture, and Bosporus views. The Terrace Cafe--where you can have breakfast (a traditional Turkish spread, of 30 items or so) or spend an evening lingering over a bottle of wine--looks out at the prettily lit Blue Mosque. 011-90/212-458-07-60, hoteldersaadet.com, from $89, includes breakfast and tax (10 percent discount if you pay in cash; stay four nights or more and you get free airport pickup). Esbelli Evi Suha Ersoz, a former lawyer, bought up traditional cave houses in Urgup, Cappadocia, and turned them into a 13-room hotel. The phrase cave hotel doesn't really do Esbelli Evi justice: Its style is timeless but contemporary, with modern bathrooms and hardwood floors. All of the rooms have air-conditioning and broadband Internet connections. There are $300-a-night suites (that have kitchens and gardens) if you've been good. 011-90/384-341-33-95, esbelli.com, $110, includes breakfast and tax. UNITED STATES Spyglass House Maui's Spyglass House is nothing fancy; it wisely lets its oceanfront location do the heavy lifting. There are six rooms, divided between two houses. The common-area living room has amazing views. Sit in a Sky Chair hanging over the lawn, or do some yoga at the yoga center that Spyglass House runs a few blocks down the street. The hippie-chic town of Paia, half a mile away, is packed with eclectic restaurants and boutiques, but there's a kitchen and barbecue grill on-site if you'd rather not leave the premises. 808/579-8608 or 800/475-6695, spyglassmaui.com, $120 ($90 for shared bath), includes breakfast. Calla Lily Inn Rod and Charlotte Callahan renovated a 1950s hotel in downtown Palm Springs, Calif., giving it a comfortable, nonintimidating feel. The nine rooms are large and tasteful, but the real star is the courtyard. Vibrant foliage--including palms and lemon, lime, and grapefruit trees--surrounds a rectangular pool, with the San Jacinto Mountains providing a glamorous backdrop. The five fountains don't hurt, either. 760/323-3654 or 888/888-5787, palmspringscallalily.com, from $109 (two-day minimum on weekends), includes evening cordial. Galisteo Inn Galisteo is 25 minutes outside of Santa Fe, but feels farther. The inn is a low-slung 18th-century hacienda, redone in 2004 with elan. Walls were painted in vibrant colors, and objets de cowboy art have been deployed with precision. The hotel is surrounded by 15 acres, home to apple and other trees. (You can pick fruit and feed it to the friendly llamas.) The Pecos Wilderness area is 10 miles away and has great hiking trails. The Galisteo Inn's chef, Enrique Guerrero, trained with Thomas Keller, of the famous French Laundry in California. 866/404-8200, galisteoinn.com, from $115, includes breakfast. McMenamins Old St. Francis School What was once a 1936 elementary school in downtown Bend, Ore., has been converted into a lodging-and-entertainment complex. The classrooms are now 17 hotel rooms, but the property appeals to locals, too. There's a movie theater, microbrewery, restaurant, and Turkish soaking pool. Groups should consider the four cottages, which sleep 2 to 10 people. Like McMenamins' other properties, this one has character to burn. 877/661-4228 or 541/382-5174, mcmenamins.com, from $94, includes movie theater admission. Numero Uno Guest House In the residential Ocean Park neighborhood of San Juan, Puerto Rico, Numero Uno is a 1940s house that's been turned into a hotel. The inn, which was totally renovated in 2005, is on the beach; you can hear the waves from your room. Numero Uno's restaurant, Pamela's Caribbean Cuisine, has tables on the sand. Go for dinner, or just for the house drink, a Lemon Squeeze--Bacardi Limon, with lemons and limes steeping in it, and cranberry juice. 866/726-5010 or 787/726-5010, numero1guesthouse.com, from $60, includes breakfast. VIETNAM Pilgrimage Village Pilgrimage Village, on the outskirts of Hue, Vietnam's former imperial city, is an effortless place to stay a few days. It has 50 rooms (though the number is expected to double by the end of the year), each with a pair of balconies, set on lush grounds. Everything you need is at hand: a pool (two by December), a grand dining room with a peaked wooden roof, a spa, a gym, an Internet cafe, even handicraft classes (where you can learn to make your very own conical hat). The Candle Bar is very romantic. It holds just 40 people, and is lit almost entirely by flickering candles. 011-84/54-885-461, pilgrimagevillage.com, from $71. 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