Trip Coach: February 13, 2007

February 13, 2007
Luisa Frey Gaynor, family cruise editor for CruiseMates.com, answered your questions about family cruises.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Hi, I'm Luisa Frey Gaynor, a travel writer specializing in family cruising. Thanks for joining me. I'm ready to answer your questions.

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New York, NY: I have a five year old daughter and she really lives for dance and art. Are there cruises available that offer these activities? We're thinking of taking our first cruise this summer (in June, 2 adults & one 5yr. old). Thank you.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: RCI has a great youth program which usually features a daily "Adventure Art by Crayola" activity in which your daughter will be engaged in artistic activities. As for dance, none of the youth programs offer dance related activities for the kids, however, all the big family-friendly cruise lines (Carnival, RCI, Princess, NCL, Disney Cruise Line, Holland America Line and Costa Cruises) have big production shows many times throughout the cruise. Bring your daughter to the early shows and I bet she'll enjoy seeing the professional dancers up on stage!

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Brooklyn, NY: Are there any kid friendly cruises to Bermuda or somewhere close to the East coast for a family of four with two very active boys ages 5 & 8?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Yes, there are a number of family friendly cruise lines cruising from the East Coast to Bermuda. The Bermuda season is usually from May through October. Royal Caribbean International's Explorer of the Seas cruises from Bayonne, NJ all season; Empress of the Seas sails from August through October from Philadelphia; and Grandeur of the Seas cruises during the fall from Baltimore. Also, Celebrity Cruises' Celebrity Journey sails all season from Bayonne, NJ. Additionally, Norwegian Cruise Line offers departures from Boston aboard the Norwegian Majesty all season, along with sailings on the Norwegian Crown from Philadelphia in May as well as New York City from June through October.

I suggest the Royal Caribbean ships as being most family friendly, especially since they all have rock walls and other active facilities. NCL's Norwegian Crown is also a good choice; however, the Norwegian Majesty is a smaller, older ship with not as many amenities for kids and teens.

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Philadelphia, PA: I have two sons with very different interests. My 10 year old is into sports & my 7 year old is into crafts. Is their a specific cruise that will keep them both happy?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: I suggest a Royal Caribbean Int'l cruise for your active family, especially their mega-ships such as the Voyager class of ships (home to indoor ice skating rinks) or Freedom of the Seas. This ship entered the market last year with a huge splash--not only because it was the largest cruise ship ever, but because it has an area for surfing as well as a water park which kids love! All RCI ships have plenty of pools, a rock climbing wall, and most of them also have mini-golf courses which your athletic son will love. As for your more artistic son, RCI has a top notch youth program too. Each cruise usually features a daily "Adventure Art by Crayola" activity in which your son will be able to express himself creatively. They often incorporate the destination into the crafts activity--for example, making fake Greek vases out of Crayola clay when sailing to the Greek Islands.

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Hastings, NE: What time of year can I get the best fares/savings for my family to cruise?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Fall (Sept. through mid-November) is the best time to get savings for your family. Since it's back to school time, ships are slightly less full and this, coupled with potential hurricane season in the Caribbean, is the impetus for cruise lines to offer their lowest rates to the Caribbean. Cruising during this time might be best for a family with young children who aren't in grade school since this is traditionally "back to school" time for most older kids.

Also, check out Costa Cruises and MSC Cruises' annual Kids Cruise Free fares to the Caribbean during their November through April Caribbean season. This summer, MSC is also offering their Kids Cruise Free promotion on their European / Mediterranean cruises.

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NYC, NY: We would like to go to Nova Scotia with our 5 yr. old. Are there any special cruises that have lots of things (educational, exercise, etc.) for her to do?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: I recommend a five-day cruise out of NYC to Nova Scotia aboard Carnival Cruise Lines. They have a great youth program which features daily activities in various categories such as "Edu-Cruise" or "Exer-Seas" for each age group. These summer time cruises always have plenty of families aboard.

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New Richmond, WI: My kids are very active, to say the least! Can you recommend some ships that have a lot of active, outdoors activities?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: You have two options: either cruise on big ships, such as Royal Caribbean Int'l, which have tons of active "bells and whistles" on them--ranging from rock walls, to ice skating rinks, surf areas, and basketball courts--or cruise on a small, expedition type ships that offer lots of active things for kids to do ashore.

For example, kids can play soccer with local kids who live along the Amazon River aboard International Expeditions' cruises; go on kids-only nature hikes in the exotic Galapagos Islands aboard an Abercrombie and Kent voyage; earn their zodiac (small, inflatable boat) driving license on a Lindblad Expeditions cruise; learn to scuba dive during a Windjammer Barefoot Cruise; or learn to paddle an outrigger canoe with local Tahitian children on a Regent Seven Seas Cruise. This latter program is offered in conjunction with the Jacques Cousteau Society. These cruise lines, which headline these unique, hands-on activities for children ashore, offer family friendly departures during the summer season.

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Roselle Park, NJ: Do any of the cruises out of NY/NJ that go north have any beach time on their stops?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: There aren't many beach destinations on New England and Canada cruises. If your ship calls at Martha's Vineyard, then you're in luck for pristine beaches which are great for swimming. Also, if your ship stops in St. John, New Brunswick, Canada, there is an excursion you can purchase which takes you to a coastal village and beach complete with sea caves. Here, however, the water is colder and the beach is better for combing for shells and rocks. Lastly, those ships calling in Bar Harbor, ME, are in close proximity to Acadia National Park, which has a scenic beach.

If you just want beach time and it doesn't matter if you sail north to Canada or south to warmer, beach climates, then I suggest you hop on a cruise from New York to the Bahamas and northern tip of the Caribbean. NCL and a few other lines offer these cruises either year round or seasonally during the summer months.

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White Plains, NY: We are a family with two teenage girls and can leave from NYC or Fort Lauderdale/Miami for a cruise in June. What cruise line and port would give us the best bang for our buck? and when is the best time to book to get the best discount? Also would we need two rooms or could we use one since omost of our time would be spent outside the cabin. (the kids are 13,15) Thanks.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Generally, the most family friendly line that gives you the "most bang for your buck" is Carnival Cruise Lines. They also have a very good teen program for your two young adults. You can either cruise north from New York to coastal Canada (summer season) or cruise all the way to the Caribbean from New York. These are the most cost effective options since you can drive to the port of New York and save yourself lots of money on four airfares compared to flying to Florida to catch a Carnival cruise. Generally, these days, the best discounts are offered the earlier you book your cruise.

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Maplewood, MN: Every year we do a family reunion with about 22 people. We've been considering a cruise but are not sure how this would work for a large group. Ages are 5 to 85. We're used to the difficulties of vacationing with a large group but are there things about cruising that would make it more difficult or less?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Family reunion cruises are becoming increasingly popular. In fact, Holland America Line offers a family reunion package with reduced rates for families booking five or more staterooms for the same sailing. In addition to the group pricing, every family member gets a soda fountain card for unlimited soft drinks, a free family photo per stateroom, and dinner for the entire family in the alternative restaurant on HAL ships. Those booking at least 10 staterooms get a complimentary upgrade from an outside stateroom to a verandah.

What's great about cruises is that there is literally something for everyone. From top rate (free) youth and teen programs, to educational lectures or piano bars at night for adults, everyone in your group will find plenty to do. The beauty of cruising as a group is that you can request for your extended family to eat dinner at tables right next to each other so that even if people want to do their own thing by day, you'll all be together in the evening. (Plus, no one has to cook or clean up, compared to if you rent a big house or condos for your reunion.) Also, cruising allows each individual family some privacy since they'd probably each book their own stateroom. This gives in-laws an option if they want a little down time from the group. Since cruise lines have tons of shore excursions you can opt for, chances are you'll find activities ashore that many in your group will want to do together too.

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Hamden, CT: We are looking to take a cruise in August to Alaska. We are a family of 6, so we will be getting two cabins. We heard the only way to really go is getting balconies. So we are determined to see Alaska the right way. We are looking at taking either the north or southbound trip. We have 4 children, their ages are 15, 14, 12, and 7. We have traveled with Carnival before(to Canada and Bahamas) and the kids have enjoyed themselves. Is it worth paying the extra for Alaska and going on Princess or Royal Caribbean than on Carnival? Any suggestions you can give us would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your time!

Luisa Frey Gaynor: I suggest you look into booking one inside cabin and one outside cabin right across the hall from each other. That way, you'll save some money on booking just one outside cabin instead of two, but still have the great Alaska scenery outside one of your doors. Since you have teens, they could stay in the inside cabin across the hall. If you do this, you might want to bring a baby monitor to keep in their room so you can monitor their comings and goings easily!

It's really your call if you want to sail with Carnival again or switch to Princess or RCI. If you enjoyed Carnival, you may as well stay with them since they have a very good youth and teen program. Princess, though, has a huge fleet of ships sailing Alaska so you will have more departure date and itinerary options than Carnival. (Princess also offers youth and teen programming.)

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Mooresville, IN: Are there situations we could encounter when cruising with our special needs 21 year old son? He's never been on a cruise and would love Disney cruise lines. He uses a wheelchair for long-distance walking and he needs a helping hand when on un-level surfaces. We're both 50 yr's old and he is our only child. Would he access to any of the teenage programs? Or did we wait to long?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Before you even said he's fond of Disney, I was going to suggest Disney Cruise Line. They are very helpful as far as special needs. Unfortunately, your son is too old for the teen programming (must be 13 to 17 years old) but there is so much fun, family friendly programming on Disney Cruise ships that you and your son will have more than enough to do. From family interactive game shows to lavish Disney stage productions and even a Pirates In The Caribbean deck party and fireworks, you'll all be pleased--actually, more liked "wowed"!

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Toronto Ontario: What are the advantages and disadvantages of booking airfare through the cruise line? Since I'm travelling with kids, I want to avoid multiple changes of planes, really early/late depatures, etc. As well, how do I know whether they will be flying us in the day before? (need to know for school).

Luisa Frey Gaynor: I suggest booking the air yourself. Sometimes the cruise lines will route you on non-direct flights (which are usually cheaper) even though there are direct flights. Or you might end up with a return flight that is hours after you get off the ship, forcing you and your kids to wait way too long at the airport. (Generally, any flight after 12 noon is usually safe for you to book and will give you enough time to get off the ship and to the airport, unless the distance between the port and airport is extensive.) Thus, you have more control over your schedule if you book yourself, which with kids can be a crucial factor in avoiding whining!

If you do book through the cruise line, one of few advantages is that if your plane is delayed upon arrival, then the cruise line would be aware that you are running late and might try to hold the ship's departure if at all possible. With independent air, if you're late...your ship may sail without you.

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Bernalillo, NM: We are planning an Alaska cruise for Summer 2008. We are 60 and 62 but our children and grandchildren, ages 1,3,5,5 and 10 a the time for a total of 13 passengers. The main thing that we are interested in seeing are the Humpback Whales and then other wildlife. Should we go on an inside passage cruise, on a big ship or a small boat? We all live in the Albuquerque NM area.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Quite a quandary--there are plusses and minuses to seeing Alaska with kids by big vs. small ships. If you're very interested in seeing wildlife, then I'd suggest cruising aboard a small ship cruise line to Alaska such as Cruise West, Lindblad Expeditions or Majestic America Line.

However, with children as young as one and three years old, I think you'll be much more comfortable on one of the larger ships, such as those plying Alaskan waters from the Carnival, Holland America, Princess, NCL or Royal Caribbean fleets. Staterooms on the smaller ships tend to be tighter than the big ships and it might be difficult fitting a crib in them compared to the big ships. Plus, toddlers are very active and they have more room to roam on the bigger ships. Holland America and Royal Caribbean offer private babysitting while Carnival has group babysitting. While you may see wildlife from your large ship, though, there is a greater chance of seeing Alaskan wildlife from the deck of a small ship.

So I think you have to weigh your odds to see which is more important--seeing wildlife or the comfort of the littlest ones in your group.

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Palatine, IL: Are there any options for families over 4 besides buying two cabins? (out of the question). I am a single mom with 4 children ranging from 10-16...and we would love to take a cruise. Just curious!!! I am never able to do online price checks because they will never alow 5 passengers...which we most definitely are.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Yes, it does get pricier when you need a cabin for families with more than four members. A number of the larger cruise lines, such as Royal Caribbean Int'l, offer family cabins which can generally sleep more than four in various configurations. I suggest, though, that you start researching your cruise about a year early if you're looking for family cabins--there are limited quantities of them and they tend to get booked early. Royal Caribbean is also a good choice since they have a very good youth and teen program and their ships have lots of active, outdoors activities which children teens enjoy. I suggest RCI's Voyager class of ships for your teens especially.

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Phoenix, AZ: Every two years, my mother-in-law's relatives get together for a July 4th family reunion. Since we are scattered from coast-to-coast, with the highest concentration in the midwest, we take turns hosting the event in our hometown or somewhere nearby. Rather than going to Iowa again, I would love to propose a family reunion on board a cruise ship. The passengers range from elderly (60s, 70s) to babies, to just about every age in between. There are typically between 50 attendees and most can stay about 4 days, usually over a weekend. What would be the best type of cruise to take and which port would be best to depart from? Obviously, we'd prefer southern California, destination Mexico.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Please see my response to the Maplewood, MN question about family reunions.

Specifically, if you're interested in a short 3, 4, or 5-day cruise to Mexico, I suggest Carnival (4 day cruises from Los Angeles and 5 day cruises from San Diego) or Royal Caribbean (3 and 4 day cruises from Los Angeles). Other lines, such as Princess, NCL or Holland America offer cruises to Mexico but they are 7 days or longer.

Both Carnival and Royal Caribbean have plenty of great programming for little ones in your group. Carnival's youth program starts at age 2 (youth counselors change diapers) and includes group babysitting. RCI's youth program starts at age 3 (must be potty trained) but there is private babysitting and daily 45-minute Fischer Price Aqua Babies and Tots interactive sessions (caregiver must be present) for those under three years old.

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Scottdale, PA: What are the best cruiselines for toddler/preschooler activities?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Most cruise lines' complimentary youth programming starts for youngsters aged three years old and over who are potty trained. However, there are a few lines which offer other options for toddlers and pre-schoolers.

Disney Cruise Line has a wonderful nursery for infants and toddlers under three years old. It's staffed with professional nannies and there is an hourly fee. The nursery is not open round the clock but it does have hours daily. I suggest you book your desired nursery times soon after embarking the ship.

Carnival Cruise Line and Norwegian Cruise Line both offer youth programming for those two years and older. While Carnival's youth counselors change diapers, NCL's don't. Thus, parents will get a beeper on NCL cruises if their little one is in diapers. The NCL youth counselors beep parents to come and change diapers themselves. Carnival also has group babysitting for little ones in the late evening and also early morning of port days.

Royal Caribbean has Aqua Babies (6 to 18 months) and Aqua Tots (18 to 36 months) programming daily on all its ships. The activities are hosted by a youth counselor and feature Fisher-Price toys. Care givers must be present with the little one during the daily 45 minute interactive play session.

Note that most cruise lines post a sign which does not allow those in diapers in the pools aboard ships. Disney Cruise Line is one of the exceptions since part of its kiddie pool has a separate filtration system, and thus they allow diapered children in designated parts of the Mickey Pool.

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Fort Lauderdale, FL: Hi Luisa, What is the best way to find a criuise deal for a single mom with two teenage boys? Are there any friendly cruise lines who do this? The children rates I have seen are per paying adult. Your help is appreciated.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Unfortunately, cruise lines do not offer a single parent rate. Thus, even if your second passenger sharing a room is a child or teen, they still have to pay the full second person rate. (Usually you pay the same rate per person for the first two people sharing a cabin and then a lowered third and fourth berth fare for any additional people in the cabin regardless of age.)

One option is to check out Costa Cruises' Caribbean sailings from November through April, when kids 17 years and younger sail free with two full paying people in their cabin. While one of your teens would have to pay the full adult rate, at least the second child would go free. MSC Cruises offers the same deal on its fall through spring Caribbean cruises as well as its summer Mediterranean sailings.

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Burlington, VT: My husband and I are considering a cruise with our somewhat shy 15-year-old daughter. Are all the teen programs the same, or might there be one or two that would be better for a kid who isn't ready to jump right in?

Luisa Frey Gaynor:

Actually, "jumping right in" is the best way for a teen to meet other teens. Last year, my also somewhat quiet teenaged daughter was on a cruise and she hesitated until mid cruise to check out the teen program, despite my urgings to go earlier in the cruise. By the time she decided to go to some of the organized teen activities, many of the kids had paired up already with their new found friends and she felt left out. At the end of the cruise, she vowed that on our next cruise she'd go to the teen programming the first day right away in order to make some friends to hang out with during the cruise. Even if it takes some bribing, try to get your daughter to go to the teen orientation session the first night right away to see what it's all about.

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Columbus, OH: We are a family of five who would like to try a cruise vacation to Nova Scotia this summer--late June or early July. My teenager, the oldest, is easily bored and doesn't really want to go. Are there any cruise lines that offer activities that teens would enjoy? She's fourteen. Thanks!

Luisa Frey Gaynor: I suggest checking out Carnival's five-day cruises to Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, Canada. Carnival has a very good teen program complete with disco nights, scavenger hunts, going to see shows together, pool parties, etc. Carnival ships also have a spiral slide and a video arcade, which teens enjoy too.

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Carlsbad, CA: I would like to make reservations for a family reunion which numbers 23-25 people during the week of Dec 26 2007 on a cruise ship sailing either to the Caribbean or around the Hawaiian Islands. There would be additional expense of airfare no matter which coast we depart from . Do you have any suggestions for the most economical itinerary and how to obtain the best cruise price? Thank you so much.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: If you're considering Hawaii, I recommend going on a Norwegian Cruise Line cruise around the Hawaiian Islands for a week. They specialize in Hawaii and are the only cruise line that can sail solely around the Hawaiian Islands without having to call at a foreign port. NCL has a good youth program for those aged 2 to 17 years. If little ones aren't potty trained, parents will get a beeper to alert them when they need to come change a diaper. Hawaii is a wonderful destination for all ages.

Since you're considering a holiday cruise, I suggest you look into it soon ... they book up quickly.

For getting comparative rates, go to web sites like www.CruiseCompete where you can plug in your desired dates and destination and cruise only agencies will email you back what their best rates are. I suggest booking through cruise only agencies rather than big, anonymous groups like Expedia, since cruise only agencies are experts in this area. These days, rates don't vary too greatly due to new rules set by the cruise lines in an effort to level the playing field. You should call the cruise only agent before booking since they may be able to offer you a better deal verbally than what you see on line. Also, with human contact, you know who to go to if you encounter a problem after you book.

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Los Angeles area (Granada Hills), CA: We are looking for an Alaskan cruise for our family. We also would like a land extension into the Brooks Range. We are attending a wedding in Eugene OR on July 14 and want to leave following that. My son is 13 years old. We are very adventourous and enjoy outdoor sports like hiking, rock climbing, kayaking, bicycling, and camping.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Since you're "outdoorsy", I suggest going on a small ship adventure to Alaska. Some of the lines you might want to consider include Lindblad Expeditions and Cruise West. On these lines, you'll have guided nature hikes ashore and you'll be able to see wildlife much more "up close and personal" than on the big ships.

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Pocono, PA: We live in PA and we dont like to fly--is there any cruise that leaves from NY or NJ, and what are the recommended cruise lines? Thank you.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: There are a few different directions you can cruise to from New York City and New Jersey ports. In the summer, you can head to Bermuda (see answer to Brooklyn, NY) or go north to New England and Canada. Carnival is your best bet for a family friendly cruise to coastal Canada. Alternatively, there are a number of cruise lines, such as NCL, which offer year round cruises from New York all the way down to the Bahamas and the northern tip of the Caribbean.

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Germantowm, MD: My sister and I are trying to plan a cruise for her family (two kids ages 4 & 7) and mine (no kids). Any suggestions for a cruise or cruise line with activities for all of us together and then just for the adults/kids separate? Thanks!

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Actually, all of the big cruise lines offering youth programs are very family friendly, but definitely have tons for adults to do on their own. I recommend Carnival, Royal Caribbean, Princess, Holland America, Costa, NCL or Disney Cruise Line. Actually, Disney has an adults only section on each ship containing a few bars, night clubs, etc, as well as an adults only pool and adults only area of its private beach in the Bahamas.

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Cincinnati, OH: Luisa, What advice to you have for a family of 6 adults, 3 teens and one infant to book a Caribbean cruise on short notice for the week of March 10th out of any port? We are not fond on Carnivale lines.

Luisa Frey Gaynor: At this short notice (for March 10), you won't be able to be too picky. If you prefer not to cruise on Carnival, I suggest Royal Caribbean since they have a huge fleet and hence, probably the best choices left for a Caribbean cruise next month. This is spring break season so it might be tough to get the cabins you want--but you never know!

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Kingston, NY: We have small children and we are looking to cruise. Is there any cruise you would suggest?

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Please see the answer to the question from Scottdale, PA regarding options in cruising for little ones. Thanks!

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Judy, Charleston, WV: We are a family of four ages 44, 46 with children aged 9 and 15. This is our first cruise. We will depart Ft. Lauderdale, FL on July 29 on a 6 day cruise visiting Freeport, Bahamas and Costa Maya, Mexico. As we have never cruised before, do you believe a 6 day cruise to be a good choice? As first time cruisers with older children what advise would you give? Any information about excursions would be appreciated as well. Thanks

Luisa Frey Gaynor: Yes, I think you'll enjoy a six day cruise. Frankly, on a three or four day cruise, you're just getting relaxed and it's all over!

Some advice I can offer regarding older children and teens aboard ship is to set some limits before your cruise. This includes curfews (mainly for your teen -- the teen programming starts later in the evening and goes into the wee hours of the morning) as well as limits for on board spending. The video arcades and internet use can get pretty pricey if your teen is really into them, like most teens are!

Also, I suggest leaving a note pad at a central place in your cabin for the teen to leave you notes as to where he/she is since on board ship, the teen will probably have a lot of freedom. We've always taken walkie talkies aboard ship with us so that my 13 year old daughter can get a hold of us when she's off on her own. I guarantee that by the end of the cruise, both children will have made some new friends and will want to cruise again!

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Luisa Frey Gaynor: Thanks for all your interesting questions. I hope you and your family will sail the high seas soon ... once you do, I bet your kids will be hooked on cruising like mine are. (My 13 year old daughter has been on over 25 cruises!)

Smooth sailing!

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Table of Contents: March 2007

Dream Trips: 2007 Edition In this year's roundup, we're showing how easy it is to get to Easter Island, hang out with butterflies in Mexico, party at Mardi Gras, climb Mount Fuiji, sleep in an overwater bungalow, camp in the Sahara, and explore the famous Hermitage. Dream Trips photo scramble! A View With a Room The spectacular coast of Croatia is studded with lighthouses that have helped sailors find safe harbor for centuries. Eleven of them have vacation rentals--simple apartments that allow guests to play keeper for a week. Read an Excerpt from Gayle Forman's "You Can't Get There From Here" 50 All-Star Family Camps Family camp is just like traditional summer camp, but adults are allowed. That mean you get meals in a dining hall, campfire sing-alongs, activities such as arts and crafts and softball, and the chance to meet a lot of neat people. Eat Like a Local: Chicago From bohemian fine dining to gussied-up comfort food, this is where the city chows down. Trips That Can Change Your Life: Adventure Biking No matter where you live, you've probably thought about hitting the open road and seeing what else is out there. Ever consider doing it on a bike? View the slide show Road Trip: Olympic Peninsula Washington State's Mount Olympus is the center of a region dotted with thick forests, remote beaches, and rejuvenating hot springs. 40 Best Vacations Where the Real Deals are in Fiji, Malaysia, Brazil, and 37 other tempting destinations around the world.

True Stories

New Prize: A Weeklong Vacation Rental The best response we receive before March 31 wins a vacation rental courtesy of HomeAway.com. The prize includes up to six nights in any vacation rental of the winner's choice, up to $300 per night, for a maximum of $1,800, including taxes and surcharges. Winner must choose a home in three destinations anywhere HomeAway.com represents vacation homes; HomeAway will provide accommodations in one of those destinations. Prize is valid for a maximum of four people from June 1, 2007, to May 31, 2008. Blackout dates may apply. The prize is subject to availability, nontransferable, and nonnegotiable. For more information on HomeAway, visit homeaway.com. How to EnterTrueStories@BudgetTravelOnline.com or True Stories, Budget Travel, 530 Seventh Ave., 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10018. Sorry, we can't return photos. Read the full guidelines. Winner!This month's winner is Bruce Klahr of Boulder, Colo. His prize: Two first-class Eurail Flexipasses, courtesy of Railpass.com. At Expo 2005 in Japan, robots were featured everywhere. The best ones were the multilingual information-bots that were programmed to answer questions about the event. These female robots looked, acted, and talked like real people. "You're very beautiful," I said to one. "Will you marry me?" Expecting her to tell me that she was programmed to only give advice about Expo, I couldn't believe her actual response: "Underneath these clothes I have a beautiful body," she said. "But I cannot take them off here." Sisterhood Of The Traveling Skirt Is A Totally Different MovieMy friend Bethany and I wanted to ride donkeys while in Greece, just like in The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants. We were both wearing skirts, so we asked the man running the tour if we could ride sidesaddle. Not a minute after he agreed, he helped Bethany onto her saddle and then whipped her legs around to either side. "Sir! Sir!" she pleaded, feeling exposed. (Her skirt wasn't a flowing one, so she had to hike it up to keep it from tearing or cutting off her circulation.) The donkey took off down the stairs. "You know I'm your best friend," she screamed, "because I wouldn't do this for anyone else!" Katie Baldree, Atlanta, Ga. Because If It Ain't From Nobu . . . After a few days in New York City I was used to the "spare change" people. I'd been warned not to give them money, but I tended to do so anyway. One evening, after a large meal at a Greek restaurant (so large I ate only the appetizer), I was walking back to my hotel carrying the bag of leftover roasted chicken, potatoes, and green beans, when a young man came toward me chanting, "Food, I need food. Do you have money for food? I'm so hungry." I thrust the bag toward him. Before taking it, however, he looked at me and asked, "It's not sushi, is it?" Andrea Hollander Budy, Mountain View, Ark. Safe Phone Sex: The New Frontier In Public HealthI was traveling with my friend Gladys in the Peruvian Andes when she needed to use the bathroom. Being in a very small village, we were invited to use the bathroom of a local family. It was basically a concrete hole in the ground surrounded by a fence. While I was holding the door closed, I heard a noise, as if something had hit the concrete. I asked Gladys if everything was OK, and she said, "Yes"--but she later realized that she was missing her cell phone. Frantic, we ran back to the latrine and fished around in the dark hole with two long sticks. Unbelievably, we were able to pull up the phone. It looked and smelled as bad as we thought it would. We never imagined it would still work, but Gladys wanted to keep it to trade for another phone in Lima, so we submerged it in two pails of water and even had the owner of our hotel give it a Clorox bath. We wrapped the phone in a plastic bag and set it on a table to dry. Just as we were about to drift off to sleep, the cell phone rang! Neither of us particularly wanted to touch it, but Gladys picked it up and poked the antenna through the bag. It was her husband calling, and through gales of laughter we told him our story--although all he could really hear was a crinkling bag. Bonnie Laycock, Wichita, Kans. Reason #18 Why You Can't Go Wrong With A Little Black DressI've learned over the years that the best way to visit cathedrals is to attend a service--with the lights on and the music playing I can experience them the way they were intended. So while in the Tuscan hill town of Pienza, I popped into a small Renaissance cathedral. It seemed crowded for a Thursday afternoon, but I was pleasantly surprised by a cello solo of exceptional loveliness. I quietly moved several pews closer to the front. After about 10 minutes of gazing peacefully at the ceiling, statues, and beautiful religious paintings, I looked over at the center aisle, and my heart sank. There was a coffin! I had crashed a funeral. Carolyn Casady Trimble, Urbana, Ill. You can find more True Stories in the March 2007 issue of Budget Travel magazine.

Sibiu, Romania

"The Communists saw these things as subversive and bourgeois," says the owner of a shop named Antik, describing a Latin and German manuscript, written by a Hungarian nobleman in 1814, that synthesizes everything that was known about the world's languages. "So the intellectual families took them into the forests and buried them in wooden crates. They stayed buried for almost 20 years. Then Nicolae Ceau¸sescu decided that culture was good for the nation, and they dug them up." Romania betrays little evidence of Ceausescu's affection for culture. To construct a single monstrous building in Bucharest in 1984--the House of the People, today known as the Palace of the Parliament--he razed a historic area roughly the size of Venice. Even places like the beautiful Transylvanian city of Sibiu, spared the wrecking ball, were so neglected during the tyrant's 24-year rule that the town may as well have been destroyed: Churches rotted, palaces crumbled, and museums were looted. Ceausescu was overthrown (and shot by a firing squad) in 1989; Romania joined the European Union on January 1, 2007. The Romanians couldn't be more excited. The word Europe, which in luckier parts has a tinge of meddling bureaucrats and high taxes, here means a chance to recover the culture and identity that, in Romania's terrible last century, were so violently blown up and bulldozed. Each year, the EU chooses one or two member cities to showcase--with exhibitions and performances--to the rest of the union. This is meant to foster a greater understanding between the many cultures. To prepare for its stint as a European Capital of Culture for 2007, Sibiu spruced up everything from its public squares to its sewers. The city's baroque architecture has been restored, and the treasures that these buildings once housed have been returned to their rightful places. Jan van Eyck's masterpiece, Man with Ring, is back in the art galleries of the National Brukenthal Museum--the Communists had taken it to Bucharest--as is a stolen Titian, Ecce Homo, that was recovered by customs agents in Miami. Casa Luxemburg is a small symbol of the European solidarity that has given Sibiu a new chance. The city of Luxembourg is also a Capital of Culture for 2007, and its government has taken the opportunity to fund the renovation of this historic building on one of Sibiu's main squares. It now holds the Luxembourg consulate, a tourist information center, and a small guesthouse with six bedrooms. The country's relationship with the town dates back centuries. Migrants from the Moselle River Valley--part of which is in modern-day Luxembourg--founded Sibiu in the late 1100s. Near one of Romania's oldest restaurants, the 500-year-old Butoiul de Aur, there are plenty of places that boast of Sibiu's connections to other parts of Europe, like Ciao Italia pizzeria and the British-pub-style La Turn. Even though it's had a serious face-lift, Sibiu is still Romania. In the mostly unrestored lower section of the city--where you can walk past faded pastel facades (such as that of homey Hotel Ela) and wizened old women selling vegetables on bedsheets spread on the cracked pavements--you'll feel as if you've wandered into a sepia picture of the Old Country from an immigrant grandparent's scrapbook: a piece of the past, dug up and returned miraculously to life. Lodging   Casa Luxemburg Piata Mica 16, reserve with Kultours, 011-40/269-216-854, casaluxemburg.ro, $75   Hotel Ela Str. Noua 43, 011-40/269-215-197, ela-hotels.ro, $43 Food   Butoiul de Aur Pasajul Scarilor 3, 011-40/269-214-575   Ciao Italia Piata Mica 23, 011-40/744-210-769   La Turn Piata Mare 1, 011-40/269-213-985 Activities   National Brukenthal Museum Piata Mare 4-5, 011-40/269-217-691, brukenthalmuseum.ro, $2.25 Shopping   Antik Str.Nicolae Balescu 23, 011-40/269-211-604 Resources   Tourist Info Center S. Brukenthal 2, 011-40/269-208-800, sibiu.ro

One Guy, One Bicycle, One Cross-Country Tour

Two things happen when I drink Scotch with old friends: Believing I can speak Spanish, I attempt to do so at completely inappropriate times (such as to a Birmingham, Ala., policeman after hours of tailgating); and I say things I often end up regretting, like "I cried during the final episode of Friends." And so it was in 2005 that I found myself in a dimly lit sushi joint asking my confused waitress for a dessert menu--"¿Cuál está para el postre?"--and then blurting out to all within earshot, "I'm thinking of cycling cross-country. By myself." Alcohol aside, the idea had appealed to me for as long as I could remember. And I'd just sold my tour company after 20 years of guiding bike trips in Europe, so I finally had the time to embark on the journey. But my declaration on that particular night in May meant that in order to take advantage of summer weather, I'd have six weeks to plan the trip. Not to mention train. I wasn't in great shape, but I was confident that I could ease my way into the tour, strengthening the requisite muscles en route. I bought an armful of maps (detailing food, lodging, and bike repair shops) from Adventure Cycling Association, a nonprofit, bicycle-travel advocacy group, and pieced together a route that began in Seaside, Ore., and finished near Portland, Maine. While I had a rough idea of my trip's pace--70 to 80 miles per day for roughly two months-- I wasn't locked in to any kind of schedule, having purchased only the one-way plane ticket from Chicago to Portland, Ore. If I became tired, I'd rest; if I got hungry and could find a store, I'd eat. (Noting the scarcity of facilities along certain stretches of road, I did pack a jar of peanut butter and a dozen energy bars.) Weather would be a factor, so I'd follow the forecasts closely. Other than that, I had no preconceived notions of who--or what--I'd encounter along the way. I simply looked forward to a grand adventure. I arrived in Oregon with more than 200 pounds of gear. For those without experience in bike touring, there's one word for this: stupid. After a week of masochistic punishment, my thighs bulged to weight-lifter proportions, so I shipped 80 pounds of stuff home--including 17 pairs of underwear. Two weeks into the ride, I celebrated my birthday outside The Dalles, Ore., near the Columbia River Gorge, a majestic canyon that carves through the Cascade Mountains. Temperatures that day peaked at 107 degrees, and it wasn't until I had cycled 80 miles that I found somewhere to sleep. As I paid for my room, the innkeeper, Pam, mentioned a wine-tasting dinner scheduled for later that evening. Nearly three dozen people were coming to the inn to sample cuts of grilled Washington beef that would be paired with the Northwest's finest vintages. "Count me in," I said, hardly believing my luck as I dragged my weary body upstairs for a nap. It was at least 120 degrees in my third-floor room, and I nearly wept with joy when I saw an air conditioner in the window. I flipped its switch to high, and instantly the power went out. Pam came running up the stairs and knocked on my door: "I told you not to turn on the A/C! We've been having major circuit problems!" "I didn't touch it," I lied, glancing down at my hand, which was now turning the knob silently to the off position. "I'm not sure what happened." (So that's what she was telling me as I filled out the registration card and daydreamed about milk shakes.) Pam hustled downstairs to find candles and flashlights, which she distributed to the other guests; the wine-tasting event was canceled. Sheepishly, I walked to a nearby gas station and shopped for dinner--a can of Beefaroni, which I ate while standing in the parking lot. Happy birthday to me. I quickly fell into a routine, waking up sometime between 6:30 A.M. and 8:00 A.M. Breakfast was simple, usually no more than a banana or energy bar bought the night before. I was sometimes tempted to linger near the motel's continental breakfast spread, especially when it offered waffles. But more often than not, 90 minutes after opening my eyes, I was packed and on the road. Not long into the trip, two things started to stand out: the endless roadside traffic-death memorials, and the many FOR SALE signs scattered among front yards, storefronts, and farms. Although the memorials made me shiver--I tried not to dwell on the risks inherent in a solo bicycle trip--it was the FOR SALE signs that I found most depressing. Anyone who watches the news knows that today's economy is tough on family farmers and small-town shopkeepers. But you tend to forget that sometimes when you live in a city where lots of people with BlackBerrys permanently attached to their palms order $5 cups of coffee without batting an eye. In a rural Minnesota bar, I met a 55-year-old man whose shoe store had gone bankrupt several years back. He'd drifted through odd jobs, and his wife left him after he defaulted on their mortgage. He was earning $6 an hour as a farmhand--and he paid the same $3 for a gallon of gasoline that you and I pay, in order to drive 50 miles round trip to work six days a week. Despite all of this, he seemed genuinely interested to hear about my journey and even insisted on buying me a beer--not allowing me to return the favor. "Welcome to Minnesota," he said, raising his can to mine. I'd break for lunch in the late morning or early afternoon, at whatever facility was most convenient. I tended to favor gas stations, as they allowed me to watch my bike while I shopped--a concern when all of your belongings are visible to passersby--and to talk freely with locals. (It's amazing how many people stop to chat when they see you dripping sweat, gulping Gatorade, and leaning against a bike that's stuffed with over 100 pounds of gear.) Sandwiches or SpaghettiOs were convenient and carb-filled, and relatively easy on my stomach. I once ate a four-burrito lunch at a Montana Taco John's--though I regretted it exactly 42 minutes later. It's safe to say I'll never be allowed anywhere near the E-Z Mart in Havre, Mont., again. Sadly, that wasn't the last of my health problems. At about the 1,500-mile mark, somewhere in North Dakota, I decided to tackle my trip's first century ride--100 miles in a single day. The route was flat and uncomplicated, and I was anxious to gauge my fitness level. After 70 miles, I stopped to rest in the parking lot of a diner. What a great day, I thought to myself, looking out onto the open prairie. I wanted a photograph to capture the moment, so I grabbed my camera and began framing the shot. As I took a step forward, a surge of pain shot up my side. I looked down and saw that a planter, its edges trimmed in razor-sharp rusted metal, had gouged my leg. When you can see muscle and tendon, you know you need a doctor. I quickly bandaged myself and cycled 30 miles to my overnight destination--Williston, N.D.--where I found a hospital. "Quite a flapper you've got there," announced the ER doctor as he surveyed the deep V shape carved into my shin. He expressed interest in my trip, and we chatted as he attended to the wound. One tetanus shot, 10 stitches, and a 14-hour nap later, I was back in business. My appetite, thanks to all the cycling, was limitless. In Walla Walla, Wash., for example, I ate two large pizzas--plus a salad, a pitcher of Coke, and a slice of apple pie--in one sitting. At the next table were four teenagers who shared a medium pizza. One of them asked me to autograph his menu after I'd finished. I loved the all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets that popped up everywhere (I stopped at two in North Dakota alone), but with the quantity of food I was consuming, I'm not sure the restaurant managers loved me back. Almost every night, I treated myself to an ice cream at a Dairy Queen or convenience store. And believe it or not, I was still losing weight. Labor Day morning, in Petoskey, Mich., I awoke with searing abdominal cramps, my body scrunched in the fetal position. No amount of bad shrimp lo me in could produce this kind of discomfort. "Kidney stone," explained the doctor at the local hospital. "A big one, too." My bike trip came to a temporary halt; I'd need to pass the stone. Based on its size and location, this could happen in one of two ways: Either I'd pee it out, or I'd undergo surgery. When I learned that the latter would require a "fiber-optic instrument inserted into the penis," I asked directions to the nearest drinking fountain--I'd pass the stone myself. As far as I'm concerned, my urethra is exit-only. One week and 400 gallons of water later, nothing. Another exam indicated that I was developing a mild kidney infection, so surgery was necessary. Fortunately, the stone was retrieved easily. But I still had to recover for another week before getting back in the saddle. Being waylaid in Michigan for two weeks turned out to be a blessing. It recharged my batteries, providing me with an even greater appreciation for the remainder of my trip--not to mention Class II narcotics. I reached the Atlantic Ocean just south of Portland, Maine, on the 73rd day of my journey, roughly 3,800 miles from my starting point. (My odometer had broken somewhere in Minnesota.) I laid my bike down near the surf, my mind racing. I'd anticipated the moment for weeks, wondering how I'd feel upon seeing the Atlantic. Despite more than 10 weeks of cycling by myself day after day, standing on the deserted stretch of beach was the first time I truly felt alone. My mind immediately flooded with memories. I thought about the young woman I had met at an archery range in rural Wisconsin who was sharpening her bow-handling skills in preparation for hunting season (I had stopped to watch, intrigued). And the Oregon man traveling with his young grandsons, whom I met at a state park campground. We dined together under the stars, and his grandsons helped me load my gear the following morning, running after my bike for hundreds of yards, shouting encouragement as I pulled away. Of course there was also the drunk Montana guy who, while sitting next to me at a ramshackle saloon, decided to lecture me about race and religion. I surreptitiously made sure my necklace was tucked safely under my T-shirt. It had a pendant on it representing the Jewish symbol for life. If he had asked about it, I'd have pretended to be a mathematician and claimed it was the symbol for pi. The America I'd seen included a patchwork of faces and stories that continues, even 18 months after my return home, to make an impression. I was welcomed wherever I went and never heard a harsh word directed my way--though God knows how hard people may have laughed when I was out of earshot.