A Back Door to VIP Status

By Peter Vogel
February 19, 2007
0704_how_aaribbon
Photo illustration by John Ueland
American Airlines' little-known 90-Day Challenge reward program provides a fast track to elite status.

I fly five to seven times a year and have never reached elite status with an airline. So I was intrigued after learning about American Airlines' 90-Day Challenge. In contrast to the normal requirement--that a passenger fly 25,000 miles within a year for Gold status or 50,000 miles for Platinum--the challenge is a fast track to elite status. But the carrier never promotes it.

The only way to sign up is to call American's reward program (800/421-0600). You must call in advance of a flight; the airline won't give credit retroactively. When starting, you pick whether to go for Gold or Platinum status--5,000 or 10,000 points, respectively--within 90 days. The Platinum perks are better, beginning with double miles on flights, compared to Gold's 25 percent mileage bonus.

Points are added using an odd system. American's cheapest flights usually generate half a point for every mile flown, while every mile in a first-class seat gives one-and-a-half points. Ask an airline agent how many points a flight will add to your account.

With trips in the works from San Diego to both New York City and London, I went for Platinum. It was a little risky. There's no changing once you decide. If you pick Gold but earn enough points for Platinum, you're stuck with Gold. If you pick Platinum but only earn enough for Gold, you get no special status.

My round trip to JFK was 4,892 miles, yielding 2,446 points because I bought a cheap ticket. The London trip was 11,898 miles round trip, and I thought I'd earn half that figure in points because it was another inexpensive fare. But I got lucky: While the leg to London earned half a point per mile, the return was in a fare category that paid off one-to-one. I was over the 10,000-point mark and officially a Platinum member.

The first perk was earning double miles--on that return from London. With the bonus, I had 23,746 miles after two flights. Since I'll be getting double miles through year's end, it'll be a cinch to hit 25,000 miles (enough for a free flight).

Some of the other perks I'm looking forward to include being among the first people on the free-upgrade list and having access to premium window and aisle seats that are off-limits to regular passengers.

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading

Sounds Like an Interesting Trip

Step 1: Gearing Up The least expensive route is purchasing a device that, when combined with a standard iPod or second-generation Nano (not a Shuffle or older Nano), forms a digital audio recorder. About the size of a Matchbox car, Belkin's TuneTalk Stereo ($70, attached to an iPod at right) has a built-in microphone and plugs into the bottom of an iPod. Or buy the thimble-size Sony ECM-C115 mic ($60), which conveniently clips onto a pocket or lapel. You must plug the Sony device into a microphone adapter (Belkin makes one for $30), which in turn connects to your iPod via the headphone jack. You'll be able to record two hours of high-quality audio for just over a gig of space on your iPod. Step 2: Recording Plug in the TuneTalk, and the Voice Memo menu will appear on the iPod screen. (If for some reason it doesn't, go to Extras and choose Voice Memos.) The newest video iPods let you choose between high- and low-quality audio; the latter eats up less memory. Simply click Record to record, and Stop and Save when you're done. After recording a few seconds, plug your earbuds back in the iPod to check the sound. You can select and listen through Extras/Voice Memos; files are automatically named by the date and time you recorded them. Belkin's devices come with an Auto-Gain switch, which you should turn on for most recordings--the exceptions being especially loud situations, such as concerts, when it's unnecessary (and using the feature could result in muffled sounds). Step 3: Editing and Transferring Audio Once you're at home, plug the iPod into your computer; iTunes will pop up and ask if you'd like to copy your voice memos. Click Yes. You'll be able to do more with the files by using a free program called Audacity (audacity.sourceforge.net). Once you've downloaded the software, drag the files that you want to edit onto your desktop and then open them in Audacity using File/Open. With the cursor, select a section of audio--say, a street musician's song--and manipulate it with tools found under Edit, such as cut, paste, and delete. Change the order of segments as you please. Play with fade-ins, echoes, and other features in the Effect menu. Once you're happy with the result, shift the files back to iTunes. Now, you'll be able to save them to your iPod or burn them on a CD, just as you would with your favorite songs.

Why You Should Kayak Before Booking a Cruise

While the average traveler is as comfortable reserving a flight online as he or she is buying a book at Amazon, cruise sales are still largely the domain of travel agents. Only 8 percent of passengers book cruises online. But now that you can buy cruises through online agencies such as Expedia, and the meta-search engines Kayak and SideStep make it easy to do research, it's time to reevaluate your approach. 1. Start With KayakThe website provides a great overview. In one of our searches, for a three-to-five-night Caribbean cruise in March, Kayak retrieved 65 results. Winnowing the options by price, style of cabin, departure port, and other factors is easy and quick. We clicked on Western Caribbean, and the list narrowed to 62 cruises within seconds; then we clicked on Miami as the departure port (20 results) and selected Carnival Cruise Lines (11). Under each of the results were price quotes from four consolidators: CruisesOnly, Cruise411, Cruises.com, and Vacation Outlet. For now, SideStep's cruise feature is in beta- testing stage and just searches CruisesOnly, making it less useful. 2. Search ConsolidatorsKayak doesn't sell cruises--or flights, hotels, or car rentals, for that matter. Instead it scours the Internet for prices and then links customers to booking sites. When you go to one of these sites, the offers are sometimes a little different--often for the better. For instance, Kayak displayed a Royal Caribbean cruise priced at $449 through Cruises.com. But only after switching to Cruises.com did we discover that the price quote came with special freebies: either a three-night hotel stay or a two-day car rental. Certain last-minute deals sold through consolidators also never make it to Kayak. So while Kayak may be a sensible place to begin, it falls short of giving you all the information necessary to make an informed decision. 3. Call a Travel Agent Websites are good for gathering the basics in a hurry, but you can only do so much online. If you have questions--about what kind of people a ship attracts, the dress code at dinner, or whatever--the best resource is a knowledgeable travel agent. One agent, after matching Cruises.com's $449 price on Royal Caribbean, also warned about a detail no website made clear: At that rate, the cabin wasn't pre-assigned, meaning that it could be in an especially loud location over the engine. Agencies may also have exclusive access to perks, like complimentary upgrades or airport transfers. Most agents don't tack on a service charge for cruises, but you should be sure to ask. 4. Use CruiseCompeteThe first three steps should give you a good idea of which cruise you want, as well as what kinds of offers are available. Now it's simply a matter of finding the best value. Enter your dates, preferred ship and stateroom type, and other details at CruiseCompete, a website that passes along your request to dozens of consolidators and online agencies--which in turn e-mail you their best prices. 5. Evaluate the OffersNowadays, there's rarely a dramatic price difference between travel agencies, consolidators, and even the rate direct from the cruise line. Still, it's fairly common to find the same cruise selling for $20-$30 less at one source or another. Comparing apples to apples is essential, so before booking anything, double-check that port charges, taxes, and any service fees are covered in price quotes. Look closely at the extras included in one offer or another, which may make the difference. All things being equal, go with your gut: Book whichever way makes you feel most comfortable.

Secret Hotels of California Wine Country

ALEXANDER VALLEY Old Crocker InnIn the late 1800s, Charles Crocker, one of the founders of the Central Pacific Railroad, purchased nearly 600 acres above the Russian River and built a ranch and summer home there for entertaining his powerful friends and business partners. The ranch has been subdivided and parts have been sold over the years--much of it is now a residential development and a KOA campground--but five of those acres still bear Crocker's name, in the form of the Old Crocker Inn. Marcia and Tony Babb have been running the inn since 2005, when they moved north from Menlo Park. "You could call it retirement, except that we're working," laughs Tony. The Babbs have thrown themselves into their new career as innkeepers, turning out three-course breakfasts every morning (he cooks, she bakes), and generally making their guests feel at home. The eight rooms are named after historical figures and events. The Golden Spike (honoring the ceremonial spike that joined the Union Pacific and Central Pacific railroads) has a Jacuzzi, a fireplace, and pine-and-redwood-paneled walls hung with photographs and newspaper clippings related to railroad history. The Crocker has more of a tree-house feel, with a carved four-poster bed and great views of a pond and valley from a secluded corner of the wraparound deck. Although the property is hidden near the town of Cloverdale, in the sparsely populated and pleasantly remote-feeling Alexander Valley, it's only a 30-minute drive to Healdsburg, known for its upscale restaurants, shops, and wine-tasting rooms. 800/716-2007, oldcrockerinn.com, from $145. ANDERSON VALLEY Boonville HotelEighty miles north of Sonoma, along a winding road, the town of Boonville (population 700) was historically so isolated that in the 1880s locals devised their own language, Boontling, to entertain themselves. Though it flourished in the valley for 40 years, it's rarely spoken today--except, that is, on the rare occasions when the town's codgy kimmies (old men) break it out during a lews and larmers (gossip) session. Boonville is still idiosyncratic, but it's also surprisingly chic, thanks in part to Johnny Schmitt, owner and head chef at the Boonville Hotel. With decor inspired by his travels through Europe (where, he says, "it's not unusual to find hip, unfussy inns in the countryside") as well as by his own minimalist aesthetic, the hotel's 10 rooms are airy and uncluttered, some with hemp-grass carpeting and furniture crafted from timber harvested nearby. Towels are unbleached, and the cleaning products used throughout the property are ecofriendly. At dinnertime, Schmitt dons his chef hat in the hotel's romantic candlelit restaurant, crafting entrées like lamb with Gorgonzola-mint sauce using mostly local ingredients (some of them grown in the hotel garden). There are many great wineries in the area--Schmitt recommends the family-run Navarro Vineyards for its gewürztraminer, and Roederer Estate for its sparkling wines--as well as a solar-powered microbrewery, Anderson Valley Brewing Company, where award-winning beers like Barney Flats Oatmeal Stout are made in copper kettles. 707/895-2210, boonvillehotel.com, from $125. NAPA VALLEY Calistoga InnCompared with glitzier Napa Valley towns like St. Helena or Yountville, Calistoga is refreshingly unpretentious, with its old-timey main street (devoid of chain stores) and frontier architecture. It's also home to the best bargain in wine country: the Calistoga Inn, where $75 secures a simple European-style room (read "no private bath") and front-door access to the best nightlife in town. Evenings begin on the banks of the Napa River at the hotel restaurant's dining patio, where chefs cook over wood-fired grills and diners savor roasted Sonoma duck and oak-grilled jerk chicken. Later, the festivities move to the adjacent English-style pub, where both locals and visitors drink house-brewed beer and rock out to live music. The bedrooms are directly above the pub, so pack earplugs (or plan to stay until the party's over, usually around midnight on weekends). It's all part of the culture at the Calistoga, as the receptionist jovially warns people when they make reservations: "We're not quiet, we're fun." 707/942-4101, calistogainn.com, from $75, including breakfast. Hideaway CottagesFor more than 100 years, people have flocked to Calistoga for its natural hot springs and mineral-rich waters, which have been said to cure everything from arthritis to chronic fatigue syndrome. The stucco bungalows at Hideaway Cottages were built in the 1920s and '40s to cater to wellness-seekers and still serve as a home base for such guests today. Scattered on two-and-a-half acres planted with sycamores, elms, and the oldest cork oak tree in the Napa Valley, the 17 cottages are all configured differently--some have sitting rooms in addition to a bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen; others have private patios--but all are located a few steps from a swimming pool and hot tub filled with Calistoga's legendary water. The property is just two blocks from Calistoga's quaint main street, and a short stroll from the 55-year-old Dr. Wilkinson's Hot Springs Resort (owned by the same family as the Hideaway Cottages), where for $119 guests can get The Works: a soak in mineral mud baths, a lavender mineral whirlpool bath, time in the steam room, a blanket wrap, and a 30-minute almond oil massage. 707/942-4108, hideawaycottages.com, from $149, no guests under 18. Napa Valley Railway InnIs it a train? A hotel? Actually, the Napa Valley Railway Inn is both: a hotel with nine guest rooms housed in individual train cars, set on a piece of track from the now-defunct Napa Valley Railroad. In the 1970s, the red-and-blue boxcars and cabooses were airlifted into place and used as souvenir and clothing shops. The Altamura family bought the property in the 1980s and converted the cars into guest rooms. Lori Jones, the Altamuras' daughter, together with her contractor husband, Jason, took over the business in 2005. They renovated and brightened the formerly dark and dingy rooms, adding refrigerators, tiled showers, iron-and-brass beds, and antique armoires. The quietest rooms are on the east side, facing away from the adjacent parking lot (where hot-air balloons take off nearly every morning--a great, but loud, photo op). The hotel is ideally located in the heart of Napa Valley, in the center of tiny Yountville; it's a 30-second walk to the town's many famous restaurants, including Thomas Keller's budget-blowing but unforgettable French Laundry and his more affordable Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery. The downside? There's no on-site staff--guests are asked to pick up their keys at the neighboring gym, and the rest of the time they're entirely on their own. (Lori's cell number is posted in the rooms for emergencies only.) 707/944-2000, napavalleyrailwayinn.com, from $140. SONOMA VALLEY Beltane RanchJust north of the town of Sonoma, in Glen Ellen, Beltane Ranch's 105 acres are filled with fruit trees, vegetable and flower gardens, a vineyard that sells grapes to nearby winemakers, and an olive orchard yielding oil that guests snap up for $15 a bottle. No wonder, then, that L.L. Bean and Victoria's Secret have shot their catalogs here: The location is downright idyllic. The yellow, gingerbread-trimmed lodge has a two-story wraparound porch and five wainscoted rooms. The best are on the second floor, where hammocks and porch swings overlook the vineyard and Sonoma Mountain beyond. (Ask for Room 1, which has a wood-burning stove and separate sitting room.) Alexa Wood is Beltane Ranch's third-generation owner. Her great-aunt and great-uncle bought the property in 1936 to raise cattle, sheep, and turkeys. "My family has such roots here," says Wood. "This is where I spent most of my childhood summers, where I raised my kids." Breakfast, which may include sweet-potato latkes or oatmeal pancakes with homemade fig-merlot syrup, is made with ingredients from the gardens. Second helpings are basically mandatory. You can burn off extra calories on the property's tennis court (the front desk loans out rackets and balls) and by exploring the 20-plus wineries within a five-mile radius. 707/996-6501, beltaneranch.com, from $140, including breakfast. El Dorado HotelOn the northwest corner of Sonoma Plaza, the historic Spanish-style square in downtown Sonoma, the El Dorado has a hip, W-Hotel-meets-wine-country look that starts in the lobby, with a concrete-mantel fireplace and low-slung leather sofas. The 27 guest rooms are small but stylish, with flat-screen TVs, pint-size balconies with views of the plaza or a quiet courtyard, colorful abstract paintings, and four-poster beds made of brushed steel. (Rooms 11, 12, 16, and 17 have higher ceilings and a bit more square footage.) There are also four detached bungalows, for $20 more a night, each with a private entrance and patio. They're just steps from the lovely pool area, where the surrounding extra-wide chaise lounges are ideal for stargazing. The El Dorado's restaurant and bar are the most happening places in Sonoma--the citrus martini and warm chocolate cake with huckleberries are particularly delicious. 800/289-3031, eldoradosonoma.com, $175. Landmark VineyardsFor people who harbor fantasies of running away and starting their own winery, Landmark has the answer: two guest rooms right in the middle of a working vineyard, where, from your front door, you can watch the grapes growing and being harvested. Seeking an escape from the rapidly suburbanizing town of Windsor (20 miles north), Landmark's founder, Damaris Deere Ford, relocated the winery in 1989 to a spectacular piece of property at the base of Sugarloaf Ridge in Kenwood. She also brought in her son Michael Colhoun and daughter-in-law Mary as partners, making it a real family business. Ford is the great-great-granddaughter of John Deere, and the John Deere company's signature forest green pops up throughout the property, whether on a pair of rocking chairs or on an antique 1946 tractor near the front gate. The white-shuttered, stand-alone Cottage sleeps up to four and is ideal for families--it has a bedroom, a foldout couch in the living room, a washing machine and dryer, a small front porch, and a spacious, fully equipped kitchen. The smaller Suite has two twin beds (which can be pushed together), a fireplace, and a private patio with views of Sugarloaf Ridge and Hood Mountain. Both rooms are a stone's throw from the bocce court and California mission-style tasting room, so guests can sip freely, knowing it's a quick stumble home through the vines. 707/833-0053, landmarkwine.com, from $150 (or $260 for both rooms). Sonoma ChaletFans of flea markets and Antiques Roadshow will feel at home in the offbeat Sonoma Chalet, in a bucolic valley of pastures and tall eucalyptus trees five minutes by car west of downtown Sonoma. The inn is packed, crazy-aunt style, with old books and collectibles, including several sets of colorful Fiesta dinnerware on display in the dining room. Four of the seven guest rooms are in the main lodge, and each has its own personality. The walls of the ground-floor Mural Room are painted with Swiss mountain landscapes done by one of the house's original owners, an immigrant from Switzerland, in the 1940s; it also features a sunporch, perfect for afternoon reading. Sophie's Room is sweet and feminine, with pink walls and Irish-lace curtains. The Indian Room is decorated with antique Navajo rugs and a 1930s tube-style radio. And the sprawling second-floor Farm View Suite has two balconies, worn quilts on the wood-paneled walls, and an antique velvet couch facing a wood-burning fireplace. A short walk from the main house, there are also three stand-alone, studio-style cottages on the property. 800/938-3129, sonomachalet.com, from $110. Bungalows 313In 2003, while searching for a vacation home in the Bay Area, Michigan natives Denise and Anthony Salvo instead stumbled upon a bed-and-breakfast in the town of Sonoma. "It really needed some love and attention," says Denise. The rooms were filthy, the pipes were leaking, and the overgrown grounds were scattered with many years' worth of junk. The Salvos weren't looking to become innkeepers--Denise had worked in retail for 30 years and Anthony was a hair colorist--but, inspired by the property's potential, the couple took the leap. After extensive renovations, the B&B reopened in 2006. While Bungalows 313 is more expensive than other hotels in this story, the money is well spent. The five guest rooms, linked by granite pathways, open onto a Tuscan-style courtyard planted with bougainvillea and citrus trees. Even the smallest room, Luna, is luxurious. It features limestone floors, a wood-burning fireplace, a galley kitchen with copper pans hanging over the stove, and a private patio with a small table--the perfect place for morning coffee. The inn is just north of the Sonoma Plaza and a block from a scenic half-mile walking trail that winds past vineyards and farmhouses en route to Ravenswood Winery. 707/996-8091, bungalows313.com, from $209, including breakfast.

Gently Down the Stream

The big trend in cruising is bigness: Cruise lines are launching massive ships that can carry as many as 3,600 passengers. Everything you need for an exciting vacation is right onboard--spas, casinos, discos, specialty restaurants, even rock-climbing walls and surfing pools. It's a lot like going to Vegas. But the second-biggest trend is the polar opposite--which may not be a coincidence. River cruising is all about slowness and intimacy: Ships holding 150 to 300 passengers drift their way along the world's most scenic rivers, including the Rhone, the Rhine, the Yangtze, and the Nile. I've cruised all over--the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, the Great Barrier Reef--on large ships, on upscale ships, even on sailboats. But I'd never been on a river cruise, and I'd never been anywhere near the Danube. Booking the CruiseMany cruise lines--including Viking River Cruises, Uniworld Grand River Cruises, Avalon Waterways, Grand Circle Travel, and Peter Deilmann Cruises--have sailings on the Danube. I chose Viking's Romantic Danube itinerary (although I wasn't sure it'd be all that romantic, considering my mother would be joining me), mostly because it was short, eight days compared to 10 to 14 days on other lines. The cruise began in Nürnberg, Germany, and ended in Budapest, Hungary. The cruise was also relatively inexpensive, at least compared to the options on other lines. We paid $8,608 for two people for a Category B cabin, which included round-trip flights (via Frankfurt) from New York City, seven tours, all meals, port charges, and airline taxes. It was higher than it might've been because I booked late: Only Category B cabins were available, and I missed the early-booking discount. I investigated booking our own flights; since we were taking a one-way cruise and flying into one city and out of another, however, we were definitely better off letting Viking handle it. When my mother had to cancel, my boyfriend, Richard, came to the rescue. Changing the air reservations proved a hassle; it took six phone calls to get us on the same flight. A month before departure, Viking sent a nifty gray carton with a magnetic closure. It felt like Christmas Day as we went through the box: It held our tickets for the flights, the cruise, and airport-to-ship transfers; information on the ship and itinerary; booklets describing Eastern Europe and offering packing tips; a cloth pouch for carrying travel documents; and a suggested reading list. We learned the hard way, however, that we should've confirmed our seat assignments with the airline as soon as we received our tickets. When we realized we didn't have assigned seats, we went to the airport early and tried for the exit row, to no avail. Aboard the ShipMy embarkations have been limited to big terminals and large piers, so I was pleasantly surprised to find our vessel docked along a grassy expanse. During the hour we had to wait for our cabin to be ready, I investigated the riverbank. We were right by a path, with the occasional rollerblader zipping by. A beer garden was across the way. The Viking Europe, built in 2001, has three decks and 75 cabins; it can hold 150 passengers and sails with a crew of 40. There are two main common areas: the dining room back at the stern where three meals are served daily, and the Observation Lounge in the bow, home to a small cocktail bar and the site for briefings, entertainment, and light snacks. Just off the Observation Lounge is a small library with books and games. The outdoor Sun Deck, atop the ship, has lounge chairs and several small tables and chairs. Otherwise, there are no frills--no room service, no hot tubs, no in-room refrigerators, no exercise facilities. Our cabin had two twin beds and no toiletries in the bathroom. (Viking now says there should've been some, but all I know is that I had to purchase shampoo from the front desk.) The storage space, however, was deluxe: eight drawers and a full-size closet. While frequent cruisers often request a cabin in the front of the ship, because it tends to be quieter, we were in the very back of the Viking Europe and didn't experience any discomfort. The service was very responsive: Requests for extra pillows, a hairdryer, and more hangers were met within five minutes. Each day we visited a different city, but with the same routine. First, there were two hours for breakfast, a lavish buffet of juices, breads, sliced meats and cheeses, scrambled eggs, sausages, bacon, pastries, yogurt, cereal, and fruit; in addition, omelets and blueberry pancakes were cooked to order. Then cruise director Casey Lyn started making announcements about when to board the tour buses. After our morning tour, we could either go back to the ship for lunch (a soup/salad/sandwich buffet in the lounge or a more formal meal in the dining room) or eat on land. Richard and I always stayed in port, where the food far surpassed anything served on the ship. Plus, we didn't want to waste time traveling back and forth. There was one dinner seating: Lateness was frowned upon, and the servers literally ran to feed everyone in time. Dinners usually had a theme, such as German, Hungarian, or Mozart. Most passengers agreed that the conversations at dinner were more appealing than the food. Onboard entertainment was scheduled for a few afternoons and evenings: a demonstration by a glassblower, a Bavarian night with local dancers, a crew show. On other nights a piano player performed. Those who wanted to relax in their cabins would watch the movies piped in three times daily on the televisions. Our Fellow PassengersMost everyone aboard was American, and a majority were enjoying their retirement. At dinner early in the cruise, we met two couples from New Orleans, Suzanne and Fred Myers and Jeanne and Brant Houston, with whom we ended up hanging out for the rest of the cruise. The Myers had planned on taking the trip a year ago, but then Hurricane Katrina hit. (Viking River Cruises called to check on their safety, and rebooked them at no charge.) Another foursome came all the way from Brisbane, Australia. One of the women, Ruth Copelin, said they like to go cruising because "men love boats, and this way they'll give us some peace." They were pleased that it wasn't a fancy cruise: "We couldn't come to dinner on a Celebrity cruise dressed in slacks and jeans." The entire ship knew the Gremers. Charles and Grace Gremer were celebrating their 60th anniversary. During their last river cruise, through Russia, the Gremers noticed most everyone had brought their own social group, and they felt a little left out. This time, they invited their children, David, Dennis, and Debbie, and their children's spouses. "You just need to realize that this isn't a Princess cruise," said Dennis. "On a larger ship you expect to be entertained by the crew. Here you're entertained by the towns and scenery." Shore ExcursionsThe trip was planned around the Danube and the canals' locks--literally. Reservations for lock passage are booked years in advance. Going through the locks the first few times--seeing the opening of the gate and the swoosh of water--was exciting. Everyone was taking tons of photos. By the end of the trip, it felt like watching water boil. Unlike most cruises, where passengers buy excursions à la carte, with many options to choose from, our package included all seven city tours. Only a few of the special excursions in Vienna and Budapest cost extra. Each bus held about 40 passengers. We learned quickly to arrive at the bus early so we wouldn't get stuck in the back, which could smell of gas fumes and deliver a bumpier ride. Also, it would take forever to get off the bus. The quality of the tours depended on the guide. Some were terrific; others were less experienced at giving tours or were simply difficult to understand (language issues). In Nürnberg, at Zeppelin Field where Adolf Hitler once spoke, our guide scored points by passing around photographs of Hitler orating there. After a while, though, her nonstop commentary became overwhelming. I'm not sure we really needed to know that during her former job, ordering medical equipment at a Nürnberg hospital, a third of her salary went to taxes. Returning to the ship, I tuned her out and watched the cornfields. On the other hand, the guides shared fascinating tidbits that we'd never have learned otherwise: Outside the oldest pub in Regensburg, Germany, we heard how beer is often served to kids because it's cheaper than soda. In Vienna, we were informed that "The Blue Danube" is Austria's secret national anthem--and that blue is rumored to mean drunken. And there were experiences that we simply never would've planned on our own. Our first night in Vienna was one of the few evenings with no scheduled activity. Neither Richard nor I had been to the city, so we took the easy way out and bought Viking's excursion to the Palais Auersperg, where the Vienna Residence Orchestra performed a beautiful concert of Strauss and Mozart. To be honest, we really began to have fun when we went off on our own. The same night that we went to the opera, two other couples had dinner at a place called Figlmüller, and raved about it. Inspired, we skipped the next day's tour of Schönbrunn Palace and explored Vienna without a guide--and tracked down Figlmüller for lunch. We sat next to a couple from Hamburg, who laughed knowingly as the restaurant's signature Wiener schnitzel arrived. It was the size of a medium pizza. Then we stumbled across an outdoor market where I haggled lightheartedly with an elderly gentleman over antique Christmas ornaments. When we docked overnight at Vilshofen, Germany, Richard and I left the ship around 9 p.m. for a stroll through town, where we discovered IO Expressio, a lively wine and coffee bar owned by a hip couple. No one knew where we'd gone--we felt like kids sneaking out of the house. Cruising on the RiverUnlike on Caribbean cruises, with stretches where all you can see is vast open water, there was always something historic in view along the riverbank. It was mesmerizing to watch the progression from farmland to villages to cities, then back again. When we sailed through a particularly notable or scenic area (such as when we entered Budapest at dawn, passing under the famous Széchenyi Chain Bridge and the Liberty Bridge), cruise director Casey gave us interesting commentary over the loudspeakers around the ship. For all of the rigidness of the trip, and the occasions when it could feel a bit stifling, there was a big upside to the small-ship experience: Namely, we met some fantastic people. It's the kind of thing that you certainly can't take for granted on a ship with 3,000 passengers; even though there are so many more people around, you have to make much more of an effort to actually engage. It's the difference between a small town and a big city, or between going away to a college of 700 students versus one of 10,000 students. My fondest memory of the trip is of an afternoon we spent aboard the ship. It was a beautiful, sunny day as we left Melk, Austria, then cruised through the glorious Wachau Valley toward Vienna. Fred, Suzanne, Jeanne, and Brant joined Richard and me out on the top deck. We had purchased wine, cheese, sausages, crackers, and bread while in Melk, and we had a makeshift picnic. As the hillsides dotted with castles, country roads, and vineyards glided by, we ate, drank, and talked about nothing, the way friends do, discussing which of the cheeses was the most delicious and figuring out who bought the least expensive bottle of wine (it was Brant, for E1.20). And despite the fact that we weren't dining on china or drinking from crystal--in fact, we were using water glasses for the wine and a corkscrew as a knife--we felt a little like European royalty. Booking a CruiseIt's possible to book a Viking River Cruise through a travel agent or directly through the cruise line (877/668-4546, vikingrivercruises.com). Other lines that run sailings on the Danube and other rivers include Avalon Waterways (877/797-8791, avalonwaterways.com), Grand Circle Travel (800/959-0405, gct.com), Peter Deilmann Cruises (800/348-8287, deilmann-cruises.com), and Uniworld (800/360-9550, uniworld.com).