A Girls' Getaway in Charleston and Savannah

Faced with the double whammy of a slowing economy and skyrocketing fuel prices, the airline industry is in turmoil. Five U.S. airlines (Aloha, ATA, Eos, MAXjet, and Skybus) have gone belly-up. Delta and Northwest are merging, and United is desperately trying to find a suitable partner. How will all this affect you? Airlines have been instituting one fare hike after another, and the mergers will make it easier to continue doing so. Mergers not only allow airlines to cut costs, but also to increase their "pricing power"—less competition means they can demand higher fares. They're also looking for new revenue sources by applying fuel charges, bringing back the Saturday-night-stay requirement, and tacking on fees (for checking two bags, changing an itinerary, getting a window seat, and more). On some American Airlines flights, flight attendants are even hawking books and electronics. But while the airline industry can streamline relatively quickly—both through mergers and by cutting routes and grounding planes—the hotel industry can't. What's built is built (turning a hotel into a condo isn't a solution when mortgages are in short supply). To fill rooms that would otherwise go empty—and they will if air capacity continues to shrink—hotel companies are usually willing to discount. Companies are likely to promote fire sales to people who are members of their loyalty programs, so sign up now—and subscribe to their e-mail newsletters, too. Moreover, it's a good time to get familiar with blind-search sites such as Hotwire and Priceline.Because when the going gets tough, the tough need to shop aggressively if they want a deal.

DAY 1 Glacier National Park, the vast protected wilderness area in northwestern Montana, has always loomed large in my imagination—the dizzyingly steep mountain peaks, the glaciers remaining from the last ice age, and the mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and, of course, bears. The thought of coming across a bear on a hike is actually petrifying. My friend Ellie and I will be arming ourselves with plenty of bear spray. But we have some exploring to do in the towns before we get to the park. In Whitefish, a historic railroad community, we stop for lunch at theBulldog Saloon, which is decorated with dozens of wooden plaques depicting bulldogs (the local high school's mascot). Neither of us knows what to expect from the sour-cream-and-chive fries Ellie orders along with our burgers, but after one bite, she's hooked: "You need to taste these fries. Now." Although we're pretty full, we can't resist a free sample in the tasting room at theGreat Northern Brewing Company, especially when the beers have names like Buckin' Horse and Hellroaring. Since there isn't a tour—you just look at the tanks and pipes through a glass wall in the tasting room—we go down the street to split a beer at theGreat Northern Bar & Grill(which has no affiliation with the brewery). We contemplate spending the day there, listening to a guitarist and drinking microbrews, but the annualNorthwest Montana Rodeoawaits in Kalispell, 20 minutes to the south. On our way out of town, we stop atCowgirl Coffee. Ellie is delighted by all the souvenirs, particularly a T-shirt that says ONE SINGLE TALL COWGIRL, PLEASE. Outside, she sets the timer on her camera to take a photo of us on a bench with COWGIRL HEAVEN painted on the backrest. The real-life cowgirls racing their quarter horses around barrels are the highlight of the rodeo, although we're also impressed by the bull-riding and cattle-roping competitions. After a huckleberry milkshake, we leave to find our hotel.The Kalispell Grand Hotel, which was built in 1912 and recently renovated, retains an old-fashioned ambience, right down to the plate of cookies left in the lobby for guests to snack on. LODGING Kalispell Grand Hotel 100 Main St., Kalispell, 406/755-8100, kalispellgrand.com, $99 FOOD Bulldog Saloon 144 Central Ave., Whitefish, 406/862-5601, fart-slobber.com, burger $5 Great Northern Bar & Grill 27 Central Ave., Whitefish, 406/862-2816, greatnorthernbar.com Cowgirl Coffee 6356 U.S. 93 S., Whitefish, 406/862-6991 ACTIVITIES Great Northern Brewing Co. 2 Central Ave., Whitefish, 406/863-1000, greatnorthernbrewing.com Northwest Montana Rodeo 265 N. Meridian Rd., Kalispell, 406/758-5810, nwmtfair.com, from $13 DAY 2 Charles E. Conrad is just fascinating: We're taking a tour of the house he built in Kalispell in the 1890s—now known asThe Conrad Mansion Museum—and the guide is regaling us with tales about the charismatic shipping magnate. He represented Native American tribes in a land-treaty negotiation with the British in Canada! He could communicate in several Native American languages! The house is really interesting, too, with all sorts of quirky "modern" conveniences, like a speaking tube connecting the kitchen and the bedroom, and water fountains with compartments for ice blocks to keep the water running cold. Then the guide says something that floors me: Some of the light sockets contain the original bulbs, which still work today. (They'll function until the filaments inside break.) By the time the tour is finished, Ellie and I are itching to be outdoors. We've arranged to go white-water rafting on the Middle Fork of the Flathead River with theGlacier Raft Company. On the gentle flats of the river, I feel like I'm inA River Runs Through It. I only start to become nervous as we approach a set of rapids named the Bonecrusher, which is truly frightening in the early summer when the river swells with melting snow and ice from high in the mountains. Now, in August, the rapids aren't bone-crushingly intense, but a man in our group does go overboard. He's mortified when his 7-year-old son excitedly offers to jump in and save him from the shallow water. At the next swimming hole, Ellie volunteers to try what the rafting guide calls the Wheel of Misfortune. She stands on the bow of the raft while the rest of us spin it in a circle until she loses her balance and falls in. The water is a beautiful green because of glacial sediments, and it looks refreshing, so I follow her lead and hit the water with a shock: It'sfreezing! I pull myself back into the raft, and another rafter starts pointing and laughing at my large goose bumps. She's apparently never seen any that big before. When we finally reach the shore, Ellie and I make a dash for our towels and dry clothes in the car. Heading north along the outskirts of Glacier National Park, we stop at a store and shell out $50 for a can of bear spray, which is similar to pepper spray and repels bears at a distance of up to 25 feet. We plan to spend the night in the town of Polebridge, just outside the park. The word "town" is a bit of an exaggeration; it's really just a collection of cabins clustered around a 1914 general store named thePolebridge Mercantile(everyone calls it the Merc). The isolation of Polebridge is part of its appeal. Ellie and I gaze at the mountains in the distance as we sit on the Merc's porch, eating huckleberry macaroons and raspberry sugar cookies, and bonding with Zasha (a.k.a. Tripod), the resident three-legged dog. We then walk over to theNorth Fork Hostelto check in to our cabin. The owner, Oliver Meister, has braided pigtails and a German accent, both of which strike me as unusual for the area. But it seems that eccentricities are commonplace here. "Nobody is normal in Polebridge," says a local named Crazy Davey, who has just woken up from a nap on the hostel's couch. (It seems like a good idea not to ask how he got his name.) Our cabin, Klondike Kate, doesn't have much more than a bed, a couch, and a small space heater. In the middle of the night, I make a cold run to the outhouse and realize just how far away from civilization we actually are—the sky is a thick blanket of stars. OPERATORS Glacier Raft Co. West Glacier, 406/888-5454, glacierraftco.com, half-day trip $46 LODGING North Fork Hostel 80 Beaver Dr., Polebridge, 406/888-5241, nfhostel.com, from $40 FOOD Polebridge Mercantile 265 Polebridge Loop, Polebridge, 406/888-5105 ACTIVITIES The Conrad Mansion Museum 300 Woodland Ave., Kalispell, 406/755-2166, conradmansion.com, $8 DAY 3 Ellie and I chat some more with Crazy Davey at the Merc as we fuel up on pecan-crusted sticky buns and triple-berry turnovers before our hike in the morning. The main road intoGlacier National Park is the Going-to-the-Sun Road. It climbs to an elevation of 6,646 feet at Logan Pass in the Rockies' Lewis Range, which runs along the Continental Divide. The road project began in 1918 and took over 10 years to complete; in one part, workers had to bore a 400-foot-long tunnel through the mountainside—by hand. A naturalist at the Logan Pass visitors center tells us how rapidly the glaciers are disappearing from the park as a result of global warming. Scientists believe there are at least 26 glaciers left, but research is being conducted to determine if there are actually fewer. The last glacier is also now predicted to melt by 2020, 10 years earlier than previously expected. We're pretty dispirited when we set off on the three-mile hike down to Hidden Lake. The scenery, however, astounds us: The pristine lake is ringed by pink and blue wildflowers, and the razor-thin ridges, or arêtes, caused by the glaciers look as if they rose out of the ground in a sudden rush. By the time we reach theMany Glacier Hotel, a 1914 lakefront lodge located inside the national park, we're ready for bed. We pause on the porch to take in the view of Swiftcurrent Lake and the purple and blue Rocky Mountains before turning in. LODGING Many Glacier Hotel 406/892-2525, glacierparkinc.com, $135 ACTIVITIES Glacier National Park 406/888-7800, nps.gov/glac, weeklong car pass $25 DAY 4 We're up early to catch two of theGlacier Park Boat Co.'s ferries—across Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine—to tackle an eight-mile (round trip) trek to Grinnell Glacier, the most accessible of the glaciers in the park. Even though we're carrying our bear spray, Ellie and I still hoot and holler at the top of our lungs to scare away any bears as we start out on the trail. I feel a little silly, but we appear to be the first people in the woods this morning. I can feel the glacier long before I see it; the wind carries gusts of super-cold air down the slopes of the mountain, enticing Ellie and me as we hike up the trail. When we arrive, the landscape is other­worldly. A gray-green lake of glacial melt-off lies before us, studded with huge chunks of floating ice. Beyond that is the glacier itself, which looks like a giant sheet of dirty ice. Ellie and I sit on a rock that juts into the water and eat the peanut-butter-and-banana sandwiches we brought with us. We're both wearing several layers of thick clothing, but we can still feel the chilly air against our skin. After admiring the glacier for about 20 minutes, we hurriedly scuttle down the mountain and board the ferry to go back to the Many Glacier Hotel, where our car is parked. In Kalispell that night, we head out on the town, ignoring the fact that we have 6 a.m. flights the next day. We belly up to the bar atMoose's Saloon, which has graffiti-scratched walls and peanut shells mixed in with sawdust on the floor. As soon as we sit down, Ellie spots something odd—people are drinking beer with a reddish tint to it. "Yup, it's red beer," says the bartender, Travis. "You use a light beer and top it off with tomato juice. It's a Montana thing." He gives us a mug to try, and we're at once repulsed and fascinated by the concoction. We gamely sip the beer, which tastes like fizzy, sour tomato juice, until Travis takes pity on us and pours us ordinary drafts. At $1.50 a beer, one round turns into many. Before Ellie and I know it, we find ourselves in a peanut-throwing contest with some locals at the other end of the bar. The stakes are another round of beer—and we win! Tomorrow won't be pretty, but, compared to Montana, few things are. TRANSPORTATION Glacier Park Boat Co. 406/257-2426, glacierparkboats.com, $18 NIGHTLIFE Moose's Saloon 173 N. Main St., Kalispell, 406/755-2337, moosessaloon.com FINDING THE WAY Only Northwest, United, Delta, and Horizon serve Glacier International Airport in Kalispell. It might be cheaper to fly to Spokane and drive four hours east. Glacier National Park's Going-to-the-Sun Road is open from mid-June to September; check nps.gov/glac for current conditions. Some sections of the Outside North Fork Road between Columbia Falls and the Canadian border are unpaved.

BARCELONA You're pretty safe walking anywhere in the main tourist areas, but be wary of strangers who are a little too friendly, says a police spokeswoman who was not authorized to give her name. If someone asks how you like Barcelona or tries to hug you, hold on to your valuables tightly: Pickpockets use techniques like these to throw people off guard. The police department has a special unit that roams crowded areas like La Rambla disguised as tourists, right down to the maps and cameras, to watch for thieves in action. CANCÚN The vendors selling jewelry on the beach will say just about anything to get you to buy their merchandise. Police say you should be skeptical of their claims. Jewelry sellers often tell tourists that their wares are made of real silver and then quote prices starting at around $20, says Verónica Fajardo, a spokeswoman for the Cancún police. But she points out that the jewelry is almost always made from cheap metal that will turn yellow or lose its sheen within weeks. "Tourists from the U.S. and Canada are always looking for a bargain," Fajardo says. "They might get a cheaper price [on the beach], but the jewelry is definitely not of the highest quality." LAS VEGAS If your cab ride from the airport to the Strip takes more than 20 minutes, you've probably been the victim of a "long haul," in which the driver chooses a circuitous route to jack up the fare, says police officer José Montoya. The state taxi authority says reports of long hauling are on the rise. Police urge anyone who believes he's been taken for a ride to file a complaint at taxi.state.nv.us. LONDON Always take the city's old-fashioned black cabs, which are licensed by the city, rather than the so-called "minicabs" that sometimes wait outside theaters, restaurants, and bars at night, says Scotland Yard spokes­man Alan Crockford. In 2006, an average of 10 women a month were assaulted by the drivers of minicabs, according to the most recent data available from the London Metropolitan Police. Minicabs belonging to a car service are licensed, but even those cars are only legally permitted to pick up passengers who have called to make a reservation—they can't stop for people on the street. Contact the Transport for London office (011-44/20-7222-1234, tfl.gov.uk) if you want a list of licensed minicab company numbers, Crockford says. MONTREAL Police commander Alain Simoneau says the theft of stereos, laptops, iPods, and GPS devices from unlocked cars is a huge problem. Cars in Old Montreal are often targeted, and Simoneau says you should put your belongings in the trunk when you park there. Police officers have begun placing pamphlets on car windshields and in restaurants in the area as a reminder for tourists to lock up. Not doing so could even cost you money. Leaving your doors unlocked is against the law in the province of Quebec and punishable by a fine of at least $30. NEW ORLEANS A common scam in the French Quarter goes something like this: A man approaches you and says, "Bet you $5 that I can tell you where you got your shoes!" Whether you accept the bet or not, he adds, "On your feet on Bourbon Street," and demands the money. Authorities say some people pay up just to avoid a confrontation. If a stranger tries to entice you into a bet, police officer Shereese Harper suggests you keep walking and don't say a word—responding encourages the scam artist to harass you. ORLANDO Be wary of discounted, multiday theme-park tickets sold at shops on International Drive near Universal Studios or outside Disney World and the city of Kissimmee, says Detective Mike Atwood of the Orange County Sheriff's Office. Touts working for some shops wait outside the parks when they close and buy multiday passes from people who don't need them anymore. The shops then resell the tickets, which may have a couple of days left on them, to tourists at a reduced rate. The parks prohibit the reselling of passes, and attendants will turn you away if you're caught trying to use one. PHILADELPHIA Take your GPS device with you when you park in tourist areas, such as around the Liberty Bell. Lieutenant Frank Vanore says thefts of the gadgets from cars rose dramatically in the first four months of 2008 compared to the same period last year. Don't leave even a trace of a GPS unit in your car—such as a stray cord coming out of the glove compartment or the imprint of a suction cup on the windshield. "Take a couple of minutes and completely wipe down the window," says Vanore. WASHINGTON, D.C. Police launched a campaign this year to remind people to lock their car doors at gas stations—thefts of items from unattended cars at stations went up nearly fivefold from 2006 to 2007. There has also been a steep rise in robberies of iPods and cell phones on the Metro, with criminals simply snatching the devices out of the hands of distracted passengers. Police advise riders to consider not using the white Apple earphones, because the color is a dead giveaway for iPods. "The last thing you want to do is make it easy for the bad guys," says Officer Josue Aldiva. Related Stories: • Blog: Has the TSA Stolen From You? and The TSA Responds • How to Cope With 10 Travel Emergencies • Trip Coach: Q&A With a Safety Expert

MARCHAND HOUSE 'Hood On the Right Bank, in the 3rd arrondissement, home to the Musée Picasso and lots of designer boutiques. Host(s) Denise and Jean-Luc Marchand. "When my children play the piano, guests love it," says Jean-Luc. Decor The timbered house, built in 1609, still has a hook for tying up a horse in front. You'll feel like you're in a period movie walking up the lopsided oak staircase. Room(s) Three. Each has a private bathroom and vintage prints on the walls. One room, the Enclos des Templiers, overlooks a tiny courtyard. Plus At breakfast, Jean-Luc serves homemade honey with croissants from the local boulangerie. Minus The neighborhood can be noisy, especially on the weekend. Info 63 rue Charlot, 011-33/1-42-71-83-56, bonne-nuit-paris.com, from $197. Photos 1 of 2 VALADON HOUSE 'Hood Right Bank, in the 11th arrondissement. The area includes Oberkampf, an artsy neighborhood that has great jazz bars. Host(s) Anne-Lise and Jean-Baptiste Valadon, an automotive executive. Decor What was once a printmaker's studio is now a cozy home decorated with quirky flea-market finds and big floral paintings. Room(s) One. Sliding doors lead from the living room to the lone guest room, which is decorated in blues and whites, with built-in bookshelves and recessed lighting. Plus Anne-Lise has lived all over Paris, so she knows it well. She'll even book day trips for you. Minus There's only one major Métro stop in the area, Nation, and it's about a 10-minute walk away. Info 4 passage Guénot, 011-33/1-47-07-28-29, goodmorningparis.fr, from $140. Photos 1 of 2 DEMOURES HOUSE 'Hood The 16th arrondissement, on the Right Bank near the Eiffel Tower. Host(s) France Demoures, a divorced mother of three. "I love helping people," she says, which explains why she keeps baskets stuffed with maps all over the place. Decor The postwar building's exterior is nondescript, but the inside feels like grandma's house—chintz sofas and chairs, bowls of Labeyrie chocolate, and photos of France's children on the walls. Room(s) Two. With heirloom antiques and eclectic furnishings, the larger one is perfect for a small family, with a mini fridge and a queen-size bed. Plus France dotes on guests like a long-lost relative, serving tea with cakes each afternoon. Minus Neat freaks be warned—the house can feel a little cluttered to some. Info 8 rue des Bauches, 011-33/1-44-06-86-71, chambre-ville.com, from $103. Photos 1 of 2 DESTOM HOUSE 'Hood Left Bank, in the 5th arrondissement, just down the street from the Panthéon. Host(s) Anne Sinais and Jean-Luc Destom, who rent half of their apartment. Decor The couple's aesthetic is minimalist. The living room walls are bare, and the furniture consists of a linen-covered sofa and a daybed. Room(s) One. With a private bathroom, a bar constructed of glass bricks in the guest living room, and a separate kitchen, it's like having your own apartment. Plus Jean-Luc will pick you up at the airport for about €30. Minus You're right by the Sorbonne, so the streets are often packed with students day and night. Info 9 rue de la Montagne Ste.-Geneviève, 011-33/1-47-07-28-29, goodmorningparis.fr, from $188. Photos 1 of 2 POTEAUX HOUSE 'Hood Left Bank, in the 13th arrondissement. The area is known mainly for its sprawling Chinatown, but there are also plenty of trendy restaurants. Host(s) Michel and Christianne Poteaux. He owns an electronics business; she's a technical writer. Decor The three-story building on a quiet cul-de-sac was constructed in 1920 to house workers from an ice factory (hence the Glacière Métro stop). Two terraces have views of the city's southwest. Room(s) Three. Each was recently renovated and has its own bathroom. The smallest, La Rive Droite, has a private balcony. Plus Rooms have flat-screen TVs and iPod docks. Minus You might hear guests from the next room (the walls are thin). Info villa Daviel, 011-33/6-09-80-47-12, chambredhotedeparis.com, from $110. Photos 1 of 3