Table of Contents: November 2008

October 9, 2008
0811_btcover

Vacation Rental Handbook
Going straight to vacation-home owners often gives you more selection and better prices. But it can also mean no quick fix if problems arise. Follow these numbered instructions to reduce the risks within the rental process.

Cartagena: Colombia's seaside city
Colombia's vibrant seaside city is experiencing a rebirth. The country's long civil war has subsided, but the attraction for Liz Ozaist was deeper: She went to discover the place that first enchanted her father 20 years ago.
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Top Seven Surf Cities
Follow the surf-board-toting crowd, and wherever you land, you'll find a great vibe. Not to mention plenty of sun, sand, and good eats. Surfer Kimball Taylor takes you on a guided tour.
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Six Great Jazz Venues
They've played in some of the coolest clubs around. So it goes without saying that these six jazz greats know a thing or two about where they like to chill out between gigs.

Solo Travel: Single Supplement Tips
In a slow economy, you can avoid a single supplement—and still get your own double room.

Road Trip: New Mexico
Where else but in charmingly offbeat New Mexico can you find people living in "earthship" homes or a Wild West town where outlaws—and ghosts—are said to have roamed?
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40 Best
From our November issue: Deals for Hawaii, Madrid, Riviera Nayarit, and 37 other fascinating destinations worldwide.

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading

The Traveler's Medicine Cabinet

Pepcid Complete The drug eases heartburn by combining a stomach-acid reducer with an antacid. "But be careful mixing antacids and antibiotics—it can reduce the effectiveness of the antibiotic," Wenzel says. Band-Aids & Neosporin "I bring a bunch of Band-Aid sizes on trips to treat everything from a blister to a banged-up knee," Wenzel says. And Neosporin keeps cuts from getting infected. Advil The ibuprofen in Advil not only reduces pain and fevers, it also can relieve inflammation of the muscles and tendons after a long hike—Tylenol doesn't do that at all. Ultrathon Insect Repellent Repellents with higher concentrations of deet protect longer against bugs. "Find something with 30 percent deet or more," says Wenzel. Ultrathon is a 34 percent deet lotion with a time-release formula that lasts up to 12 hours. Dramamine Dramamine helps prevent motion sickness when taken at least 30 minutes before traveling. "It also makes people drowsy," Wenzel says. "So don't take it before flying if you know you'll have to drive when you get off the plane." Imodium A-D When diarrhea strikes, Imodium can stop the symptoms within 30 minutes, unlike Pepto-Bismol, which takes up to six hours to kick in. Benadryl In addition to alleviating hay fever symptoms, this drug can be used to treat hives and an itchy nose or throat caused by food allergies. Neutrogena Sunscreen Many Neutrogena sunscreens are made with a formula called Helioplex, which the company says helps stop UVA absorbers from degrading too quickly—making the sunblocks last longer. Zithromax Wenzel says this prescription antibiotic is the most effective diarrhea cure—especially in places like India and Thailand where bacteria are becoming more resistant to Cipro. For quick results, he recommends taking four 250-milligram pills with Imodium. Cortaid Cortaid Maximum Strength anti-inflammatory cream contains 1 percent hydrocortisone, which is the highest concentration available without a prescription. The cream soothes rashes and bug bites.

Blogger on Board

1. Find a host "Blogger.com is a free host with a straightforward interface and a variety of templates. When you post an entry, a link to the item is created and then archived chronologically." —Juliana Broste, travelingjules.blogspot.com 2. Stay Connected "Because I blog on the road from my RV, I subscribe to BroadbandAccess, a service that allows me to access the Internet from anywhere in the Verizon Wireless network by plugging a wireless device into my computer's USB port. The service costs me $60 a month, plus $30 for the device and software." —Patty Lonsbary, glotours.blogspot.com 3. Prepare in advance "With the WordPress blogging software—free at wordpress.com—you can write your entries in advance and set a date for them to be posted. That way there's fresh material on your blog even if you won't be able to write for a while." —Alena Kerins, followalena.com 4. Arrange for help "Before going overseas, contact your computer's manufacturer and ask for the technical-support number in the country you're visiting. [For example, Apple lists all of its numbers at apple.com/support/contact/phone_contacts.html.] Getting help on the road is then just a phone call away." —Colleen Nylund, functionoftime.blogspot.com 5. Set a schedule "Consistent posting is key to boosting readership of your blog—if you only post new entries sporadically, or fall off for weeks at a time, people will stop reading. I set myself a deadline to post a blog entry every Monday before I go to bed." —Sean Whiting, linkopinglivin.blogspot.com 6. Shrink photos "If you reduce the size of your photos with a program like Microsoft Office Picture Manager or iPhoto, you can upload them more quickly and they won't use up as much memory on your site. Uploading videos to YouTube also saves you memory." —Bob Dashman, happyflier.com 7. Attract readers "To drive traffic to your site, leave remarks on other blogs and include a link to yours. And set up an account at sitemeter.com to track your visitor numbers." —Anne Ditmeyer, pretavoyager.blogspot.com 8. Keep in touch "I always attempt to respond to everybody who leaves a comment on my blog, even if I just drop them an e-mail to thank them for visiting the site. Connecting with your readers encourages them to keep reading and posting comments. That's really what you want as a blogger—lots of comments!" —Jody Halsted, blog.havekidwilltravel.com

Spooky Walking Tours

Albuquerque, N.M.: The Weird Weird WestHow old does an area have to be to merit the name "Old Town"? In the case of Albuquerque's downtown, the answer is just over three centuries. Founded in 1706, Old Town has accumulated enough crime and punishment to qualify as a major hub of the supernatural in a state that already attracts some truly inexplicable activity. (Why did the aliens land at Roswell, anyway?) Every night here is fright night if you take the Ghost Tour of Old Town. At 8 p.m., after Old Town Plaza has grown eerily quiet, lantern-carrying "certified paranormal investigators" lead tour parties through dark alleys, quiet trails, and cemeteries, retelling tales of railroad-era murders and Civil War battles. Residents claim that they've seen apparitions and heard disembodied voices. Tours of Old Town, 505/246-8687, toursofoldtown.com, $20, $18 students and seniors, $10 children 6-12 (suitable for children 6 and older), ticket windows open 15 minutes before tour time. Baltimore: A Cure for Midnights Dreary Baltimore likes to spotlight its local celebrity, Edgar Allan Poe, 19th-century America's most morbid literary figure. (For instance, the city named its football team the Ravens in homage to Poe's famous poem.) You'll find the best perspective on the author of the "The Tell-Tale Heart" and "The Premature Burial" at the Baltimore Poe House and Museum, which stands on the site where the author worked during the early 1830s. But if you prefer atmospherics to exhibitions, check out the Westminster Burying Grounds and Catacombs—where Poe found eternal relief from his feverish imagination. It's open year-round from 8 a.m. to dusk. Both sites become Gracelands of gloom on the weekends before and after Halloween. Special event tours are conducted by trained Baltimore historians, including one that takes brave enthusiasts deep into the cemetery's catacombs in search of some excellently Gothic heebie-jeebies. Baltimore Poe House and Museum, 203 North Amity St., Baltimore, 410/396-7932, eapoe.org, reservations required, operates 12-3:30 p.m. Wed. through Sat. from April through November, $4, free for children 12 and younger, suitable for children 6 and older. Westminster Burying Grounds and Catacombs, 519 W Fayette St., West Baltimore, 410/706-2072, westminsterhall.org, gravesite open during daylight for free, tours by reservation only on the first and third Friday and Saturday of each month, April through November, $5, $4 children 12 and under, suitable for mature children. Chicago: America's Most Haunted The paranormal is all fine and good, but sometimes you want Halloween horror that's as solid as a cement loafer. In Chicago, the publisher and tour organizer Weird Chicago does a bang-up job of providing exactly that, telling stories about the red-light district, pinstripe-suited gangsters, and Virgin Mary sightings. Of note is a tour based on the popular book The Devil in the White City. The tour focuses on H.H. Holmes, long considered the first nationally known serial killer. Holmes trapped and murdered dozens of guests at his hotel. You'll see the grounds of his torture chamber, nicknamed Murder Castle, that has since been destroyed and replaced with a post office. This tour covers a lot of territory, using a bus for portions of the trip. Weird Chicago Tours, 888/446-7859, weirdchicago.com, reservations required, $30, $20 children 12 and under, call for latest schedule, most tours not recommended for children under 10. L.A.: Boulevards of Broken Dreams In a comic twist on the cliché that nobody walks in L.A., Hollywood's Tragical History "walking tour" of famous Hollywood crimes scene is done by van. Tour leader Scott Michaels conducts his three-hour trips in a Tomb Buggy that holds up to 13 passengers. The tour covers the sordid history of the murderous Menendez brothers, the serial killer Charles Manson, and other notorious characters. Michaels also spotlights the exteriors used in some of cinema's spookiest classics, such as Halloween, Dead Again, and Whatever Happened to Baby Jane? Along the way, Michaels touches on Hollywood's horror-film industry, including a drive-by of the former haunts of Bela Lugosi, who famously played Count Dracula. Dearly Departed Tours, 800/979-3370, dearlydepartedtours.com, $35, trips depart Wed.-Sat. at 1 p.m. with an additional 9:30 a.m. tour on Saturdays (advance purchase recommended due to limited capacity), not intended for children. New Orleans: The Big Creepy Thanks to Anne Rice (Interview With the Vampire, The Vampire Lestat), New Orleans is second only to Transylvania in bloodsucking lore. And you can get a great overview of the town by taking the New Orleans Vampire Tour, which embarks nightly at 8:30 from the Gothic St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square. The nearly two-hour tour explores the French Quarter stalking ground of vampires, both fictional and (allegedly) real. Along the route are sites that Rice has written about and exterior locations from the Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt film version of Interview. Note: The tour is B.Y.O. Garlic. New Orleans Vampire Tour, 888/644-6787, neworleansghosttour.com, $20, $17 students and seniors, $10 children under 12 (suitable for children), reservations required. New York City: Start Spreading the Boos Take a Ghosts of the City—as opposed to a Sex and the City—tour, in which the Big Apple's darker history is recounted. One tour departs from a Blimpie sandwich shop (at 38 Park Row), where guides launch into sepia-toned tales of such famous characters as the pirate Captain Kidd, Algonquin Indians, and P. T. Barnum's circus freaks. On other tours, you'll stroll through the neighborhoods of Greenwich Village and the East Village, passing sites where the ghosts of Harry Houdini and Washington Irving are rumored to lurk. Be sure to ask about the dilapidated St. Mark's Church-in-the-Bowery, where the 17th-century Dutch settler Peter Stuyvesant is interred—and where his spirit may still roam. Ghosts of New York, 888/699-2550, ghostsofny.com, $20, reservations recommended, online price $15, online price for children 12 and under $10 but only suitable for mature children. Salem, Mass.: Witchcraft Central If you hang, burn, stone, and crush enough witches and warlocks to death, as the authorities of Salem, Mass., did in the late 1600s, you're going to stir up a mess of hostile supernatural activity. Get an overview of this hamlet's spookiest spots by taking the Haunted Footsteps Ghost Tour. Guides dressed in colonial garb escort you around the landmark Joshua Ward House (built on the very site where many of the accused were tried, convicted, and rushed to their deaths) and the Howard Street Burial Ground, among other sights. From April through October, the tour departs every evening at 8 p.m., but you may want to arrive earlier in the day to visit the Witch Dungeon Museum, where reenactments of the trials are held every half hour. In fact, the whole town gets in on the act: Even its police patrol cars are branded with the logo of a witch flying on a broom. Salem Historical Tours, 978/745-0666, salemhistoricaltours.com, $14, $10 military, $8 children 6–14 (suitable for children 6 and older), advance reservations recommended. Witch Dungeon Museum, 16 Lynde St., 978/741-3570, witchdungeon.com, open daily April–November, $8, $7 seniors, $6 children 4–13. Seattle: Smells Like Mean Spirits When you think of Seattle, you probably think of rain, grunge, and Tom Hanks being sleepless—not ghouls and phantoms. But the city has its share, as the Seattle Museum of the Mysteries can prove. Exhibits include a display of four plaster casts of Bigfoot's footprints and the story of a 1910 avalanche that claimed nearly 100 lives on a now-defunct rail line. From the museum, you can take a 90-minute tour of the Capitol Hill neighborhood's most haunted attractions, such as the Harvard Exit Theater, where uneasy spirits have been sighted. Guides also share stories about the behavior of the city's most famous ghosts, including that of Brandon Lee, the seemingly hexed son of martial arts legend Bruce Lee. (Brandon was accidentally killed while making the Goth classic The Crow in 1994.) Seattle Museum of the Mysteries, 623 Broadway E., 206/328-6499, seattlechatclub.org, admission $2, reservations recommended, tours depart at 5 p.m. and 7 p.m. every Saturday night, suggested donation for tour $5, $3 for children 8–16.