Insiders' Guide to the Caribbean

By David Swanson
November 29, 2011
1112_Caribbean_BoatsOffHarbor
Whitney Tressel
Whether you've been to these 10 Caribbean islands once or you're planning your fifteenth visit, we've got the inside scoop on some of the best must-see spots in the islands.

ST. MARTIN

If there's any complaint about this part-French, part-Dutch island-piled high with nightclubs, restaurants, and resorts—it's that there's too much of everything. But in the wake of the global economic downturn, construction has slowed—and even, in a sense, reversed. A string of hurricane-battered structures at Mullet Bay on the Dutch side was torn down (after 15 years) and replaced by a provisional park. On the French side, the 154-acre private nature reserve Loterie Farm continues to grow, adding poolside cabanas to its zip-line course, hiking trails, and other outdoorsy amenities (loteriefarm.com, hiking $7, zip line $48, pool access $28, 10-person cabana $240). And following a 13-year effort, the Man of War Shoal reef earned certification as a marine park, giving divers new reasons to take the plunge.

SEE OUR FAVORITE PHOTOS FROM THE ISLANDS


ARUBA

There's a reason Aruba's luxury hotels, glitzy casinos, and designer boutiques are concentrated along this Dutch island's western edge: the spectacular sunsets. Yet even a non-morning person might want to sample the sunrise side for its weekly street party called Carubbean Festival (297/582-3777). Every Thursday night, food and drink vendors set up stands to sell regional specialties, primarily to local transplants hungering for a taste of home. This cross-cultural mixer takes place, appropriately enough, in the working-class community of San Nicolas, built to house oil-refinery workers who immigrated here in the 1920s. "Aruba has opened its doors to many other islanders—a lot of Jamaicans, Haitians, Dominicans," says Ruthlene Flemming, an Aruba native and the event's coordinator. "It's our melting pot. And here, you can experience a little bit of the whole Caribbean." The sunrise side is also home to cactus-studded Arikok National Park, which features rebuilt access roads, trails, and a new visitors center, thanks to a $10 million grant from the EU (arubanationalpark.org, adult admission $10). The best budget-hotel option, however, is back on the west side about a $20 cab ride away: MVC Eagle Beach, a 19-room inn with ocean-view terraces, all-white bedding, and dark-wood furniture (mvceaglebeach.com, from $145).


BAHAMAS

Some solitude seekers insist there's a direct relationship between proximity and peace: The farther you travel, the more quiet things get. Then there's Cat Island, a 48-mile-long coral outcrop just 265 miles east of Florida and only 45 minutes from Nassau. SkyBahamas Airlines flies to Cat Island daily from Nassau (skybahamas.net, round-trip from $169), yet of the over 5 million travelers to the Bahamas last year, only a fraction made a call on Cat. What they found here wasn't much, and in a good way: thatch-roof beach bars and empty pink-sand bays, diving and gentle hikes up Mt. Alvernia, the Bahamas's highest point at 206 feet above sea level. There's a great waterfront restaurant in Arthur's Town called Da Smoke Pot that serves sweet-and-sour conch and rum punch, and hosts musicians on the porch playing Bahamian songs on the musical saw (242/354-2094, sweet-and-sour conch $15). Nearby Pigeon Cay Beach Club occupies a three-mile strand with seven simple, stand-alone rental cottages (pigeoncaybahamas.com, from $140).


U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS

St. Croix, at 82 square miles, is larger than St. Thomas and St. John combined, yet of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, it gets the fewest visitors. Why? It's the most remote and the least developed—good news for the agriculture-rich island's burgeoning food scene. Among the most notable foodie stops are the farmstays and weekend workshops at the Virgin Islands Sustainable Farm Institute on the island's certified organic Ridge to Reef Farm (visfi.org; tours daily from $25; visit website for farmstay retreat options), and the annual St. Croix Food & Wine Experience, a festive, weeklong charity event in April that draws big-name chefs such as Top Chef Masters star Graham Elliot Bowles and James Beard award-winner Ana Sortun (stcroixfoodandwine.com, events from $50). Sports culture is also thriving in all that open space. Horseback riding and triathlons are popular, as well as diving and other water sports. One of the newer options: Sea Thru Kayaks VI's tours through the island's two bioluminescent bays (seathrukayaksvi.com, 90-minute tours $50). "Go when the moon isn't full, and you can really see the lights twinkling," says local restaurateur and sommelier Katherine Pugliese, a cofounder of the food festival. "You feel like you're in pixie-land."


PUERTO RICO

San Juan is still numero uno in Puerto Rico, but folks have increasingly begun gazing about 40 miles east—to Vieques. The nearly four-year-old W Hotels resort here has lured celebrity chefs (Alain Ducasse) and guests (Angie Harmon, Ryan Phillippe). But what's drawing more casual types, however, is Vieques's laid-back personality. Hospitality veterans Robin and Marsha Shepherd left their villa-rental business in St. Bart's to open the 10-room Malecón House in 2010, amid a row of mom-and-pop inns (maleconhouse.com, from $175). The most impressive and least crowded of the island's beaches (some of which have hit worldwide top 10 lists) are part of the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, on land the U.S. Navy used as a target-practice center until 2003. Today, it's managed by Puerto Rico's branch of the Fish and Wildlife Service. "If it hadn't been for the Navy and Fish and Wildlife," says Bill Barton, who owns Vieques Sailing (787/508-7245, daylong boat trips including lunch $110, late Feb.-Oct.), "the east end would look like Atlantic City."


BERMUDA

Sitting all alone in the Atlantic Ocean 650 miles east of North Carolina, Bermuda is a true outlier. It's not anywhere near the Caribbean Sea, and its food, architecture, and customs are far more British-colonial than tropical paradise. Still, the island (actually an atoll) has found an easy alliance with its neighbors to the south, sharing in tourism efforts and reaping the benefits of their counterbalanced seasons: The Caribbean booms in the winter, while peak season in Bermuda runs from spring through fall. Though Bermuda is always pricey—four of the five most expensive destinations in the Caribbean are here—visitors traveling now will find lower airfares, reduced golf fees, and hotels that are more than 40 percent off summer rates. It's not quite sunbathing weather: December days average 70 degrees. But it's perfect for touring the island's cultural attractions. Two years ago, Bermuda celebrated the 400th anniversary of the settlement of St. George's Town, the 350th anniversary of Warwick Academy, the oldest school in the western hemisphere, and the 200th anniversary of the Bermuda Post Office. Even the hotels have history: The 202-year-old main house of the Greenbank Guesthouse & Cottages incorporates cedar beams that were used as ballast in transatlantic trading ships (greenbankbermuda.com, from $145).


CAYMAN ISLANDS

The Caymans are practically synonymous with two wealthy pursuits: deep-sea diving and offshore banking. Dive 365, an initiative launched by the islands' Tourism Association, is hoping to make at least one of those more accessible to regular folks (divecayman.ky). The project's goal is to establish and maintain one Cayman dive site mooring for every day of the year, which meant adding 79 sites to the existing 286 by the end of 2012. One of the most noteworthy additions is the decommissioned U.S. naval ship Kittiwake, a 251-foot submarine rescue vessel that now sits in 62 feet of water off Seven Mile Beach (kittiwakecayman.com, scuba pass $10, snorkel pass $5). "The Kittiwake has a history that divers can relate to, with recompression chambers and lots of bulkheads to explore," says Nancy Easterbrook of Divetech, a local dive shop that helped to prepare the vessel for her sinking in January 2011 (divetech.com, two-tank boat dives $120). "Because the top is only about eight feet below the surface, you can snorkel the wreck too," she says. Affordable hotels on Grand Cayman are rare, but one good pick is 130-room Sunshine Suites, just a stone's throw from the Ritz-Carlton; each room has a fully equipped kitchen (sunshinesuites.com, from $167).

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

The Dominican Republic is a great place to find affordable all-inclusives, particularly in Punta Cana, on the island's east coast. But along the north shore—famous for its sporty adventure culture—more intimate hotels and house rentals offer a worthy alternative. In Cabarete, the Residencial Casa Linda villas look more like a neighborhood than a resort, though all rental units come with daily housekeeping service (casalindacity.com, two-bedroom villas from $120). The villas are only five miles down the road from Iguana Mama Adventure Tours, which offers trips to the 27 Falls of Damajagua, known for daredevil-quality jumps and slides over the waterfalls (iguanamama.com, full-day tour $89). In recent years, north-coast outfitters have seen an increase in the popularity of—and the competition for—canyoning and cascading excursions. One new arrival, Monkey Jungle Dominicana, located between Cabarete and Sosúa, stands apart for its philanthropic bent (monkeyjungledr.com, zip line from $50). All the profits from its zip-line and suspension-bridge tours go to the free on-site medical and dental clinic, which is staffed by volunteers and treats patients who cannot afford health care. Kitesurfing may be Cabarete's most popular outdoor pursuit, and while there's no shortage of local instructors to show you the ropes, it's almost as much fun just to watch the theatrics from the waterfront Nikki Beach lounge (nikkibeach.com, cocktails from $7)—drink in hand, of course.

JAMAICA

It's easy to get to Jamaica (flights are frequent and relatively cheap) and easier still to find a resort destination for just about every type of traveler: romantic Negril for honeymooners, family-friendly Montego Bay, busy Ocho Rios for cruisers. What's harder is finding an all-inclusive hotel that doesn't sequester you in its own cocoon at the expense of exploring the Jamaican culture beyond. Treasure Beach, on the south coast, is home to just a handful of hotels, all of them small-scale and dedicated to opening their doors to the community. At Marblue Villas Suites, an eight-suite hotel with custom-made local cedar furniture, guests often stray into the nearby fishing villages for coffee, dinner, or drinks (marblue.com, from $111). Jason Henzell's Jakes Hotel, which evokes Moroccan riads with arched doorways and colorful tapestries, is one of the area's largest properties, with 49 rooms, two restaurants, and a spa (jakeshotel.com, from $90). Henzell is committed to helping interested guests connect with their surroundings. On working farms in the nearby Pedro Plains area, the hotel runs a monthly series of organic, local-food dinners, which are drawing Jamaican residents and visitors alike. "There's a vibrancy that leaks into every aspect of life here," says Liz Solms, an NGO veteran who works with local growers to supply the produce for the meal. "It's there in the spiciness and richness of the food, and even in the way people communicate with one another."


TRINIDAD & TOBAGO

Tobago is like Trinidad's backyard, a 116-square-mile haven just a 20-minute flight on Caribbean Airlines from its bigger, noisier sibling (caribbean-airlines.com, round-trip flights from $48). Where Trinidad has restaurants, nightclubs, and 96 percent of the country's population, Tobago has empty beaches, calm bays, and spectacular brain-coral reefs. There are also almost three times the number of exotic bird species as there are hotels, and the birds have free rein in the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, one of the oldest protected forests in the western hemisphere. When it comes to human nesting, it doesn't get more peaceful than the four-room Gloucester Place Guest House in Parlatuvier, on the island's north coast (gloucesterplace.com, from $110). Shaded by coconut palms and mango trees, the guesthouse even has its own natural waterfall and an infinity pool overlooking the Caribbean.

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Destinations

World's Prettiest Castle Towns

Historically, castle towns were designed to keep invaders out—the city walls, moats, and cannon ramparts all constructed to serve as protective barriers. But these days, those same majestic architectural features have proven irresistible to visitors, and now these communities welcome tourists with open arms—and gates (no storming the castle necessary!). We scoured the globe to find the most picturesque fortress towns in the world, places where you're just as likely to want to snap photos of the ramparts as you will street scenes of the locals. Best of all, these are real towns, so when you're finished exploring the castles' interiors, you'll have a reason to stick around and enjoy the royal backdrop while you experience the local culture. TOUR THE CASTLES 1. JAISALMER, INDIA  About 470 miles west of Delhi looms what is said to be the world's only continuously occupied fort town, Jaisalmer, India. Rajput warriors and Jain merchants founded the so-called Golden City in 1156 and—unlike many fortress communities—it was never abandoned. Jaisalmer Fort rises nearly 25 stories off the flat, seemingly endless floor of the Great Thar Desert in western Rajasthan. Its 99 bastions were constructed out of yellow bentonite sandstone—giving it the appearance of a massive, intricately carved, sand castle. Around the flourishing town, countless temples and mansions stand out for their Technicolor red-, indigo-, and yellow-dyed walls typically decorated with lace-like carvings.Getting There: A new airport will open near Jaisalmer in December 2011. Until then, you can reach the city via an overnight, 570-mile train journey from Delhi (tickets start at $3 per person, $6 per person for a sleeper-cabin seat), or else you can take a nine-day camel trip from Delhi (aetravel.com, prices vary).Visiting: Admission is $5. 2. RHODES, GREECE  The unique mix of Islamic minarets, European buttresses, and pebble-stone mosaic pavements in the ancient city of Rhodes makes it look like a clash of cultures—A Knight's Tale meets a 17th-century Turkish village. Indeed, the town is located at the very heart of the crossroads between the Middle East, Europe, and Africa, and its varied architecture reflects all of those influences. Within the city's thick sandstone and limestone walls, you'll find the Palace of the Grand Masters, built by crusading knights in the 14th century, alongside a candy-striped mosque, a Byzantine museum, and a Muslim library—all legacies from the time of Turkish rule. Today, many of Rhodes's Greek residents are shopkeepers who sell honey produced by the island's many beekeepers; others craft necklaces and souvenirs made from shells cast ashore.Getting There: The medieval town of Rhodes is located at the northern tip of the island of Rhodes—part of the Dodecanese chain. Olympic Airlines and Aegean Airlines both offer flights into the International Airport of Rhodes (prices vary), and five ferry lines connect to the island from the mainland (prices vary).Visiting: Entry to the town of Rhodes is free; admission to the palace, museum, and other sites vary. 3. NAGANEUPSEONG, SOUTH KOREA  South Korea may not leap to mind as a hotbed of castles, but in fact the country is flush with fortress towns built to thwart Japanese pirates. Instead of Braveheart-style stone fortresses, however, in Korea castles resemble elaborate pagoda-type buildings, surrounded by thick stone walls. The best preserved of these is in the town of Naganeupseong, a three-square-mile gem nestled in a valley beneath some low-lying mountains near the southwestern city of Suncheon. As remarkable as it is unpronounceable, Naganeupseong (nagan means "safe and pleasant"and seong means "castle") was built in 1397 and still has a couple hundred residents living in its hub of 30 or so thatched-roof adobe houses. Locals work in tile-roofed shops linked by pencil-thin stone alleyways, all of which lead to the town's focal point: the Nakpung-ru Castle. Most weekends, visitors can catch a changing-of-the-guard ceremony in front of its pagoda-style entrance, and every October, the town draws about 200,000 tourists to its Namdo food festival, where regional favorite dishes, such as sanchae bibimbap (a bowl of warm rice topped with vegetables), are served and traditional music is played on the 12-string gayageum.Getting There: The town of Naganeupseong is accessible via a 25-minute taxi ride from Suncheon. Expect to pay about $3.50.Visiting: Admission to the Nakpung-ru Castle is $1.75 for adults. 4. SEGOVIA, SPAIN  Even if you've never set foot in Spain, the Alcázar Castle will likely look familiar to you. It's believed to be the inspiration for the original Cinderella Castle in Disneyland, in Anaheim, Calif., and it has appeared in countless postcards and photos since. The original 14th-century structure was destroyed by a fire, but its cylindrical turrets, peaked roofs, and soaring stone walls were faithfully re-created in the 1880s, with marvelously designed murals inside depicting famous battle scenes. The Alcázar is surrounded by a deep moat and looms over the small, hill town of Segovia, which is connected by a drawbridge. The walled community itself is a faithful re-creation of the bright side of Middle Ages life, with crafts shops and beer halls done up in true retro style. Segovia also has an amazingly well-preserved Roman aqueduct with 166 graceful arches and the famous Vera Cruz church, which was consecrated in 1208 by the Knights of Templar to house a relic of the True Cross.Getting There: The town of Segovia is easily reached via a one-hour-and-45-minute high-speed train ride northwest of Madrid (tickets $11).Visiting: Admission to the Alcázar Castle is $6 for adults. 5. LOUISBOURG, CANADA  Set on the Atlantic Coast of Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, Louisbourg began life peacefully enough in 1713 as a fishing port. But when the Anglo-French struggle for Canada began a few years later, the French colonists started building a series of stone city walls, transforming the sleepy village into a massive fortress. Today, the entire town is a national historic site, crawling with visitors, historical reenactors, and—some say—more than its fair share of resident ghosts. There's a phantom sea captain who's said to haunt the ramparts that overlook Louisbourg's pretty harbor; there's the nurse known to walk among the remains of the old hospital; and there's the mischief-maker who causes trouble by the fort's coal-fired hearth, where white-aproned bakers make fresh bread every day for visitors. Just outside the bastion's walls is the Louisbourg Playhouse, which presents traditional colonial dance performances every day during the summer months.Getting There: From the mainland, Louisbourg is best reached by car. You cross the Canso Causeway onto Cape Breton Island. Continue on to the city of Sydney. From the NS Highway 125, you take exit 8 onto Route 22 to Louisbourg. Visiting: The fort is open from mid-May to late October. Admission is $17.60 for adults. 6. MATSUMOTO, JAPAN  Matsumoto-jo is a compound set in the shadow of snow-topped Mt. Hotaka in central Japan. It was built in 1592, making it the country's oldest surviving wooden castle. The main tower is surrounded by pagoda-like tiers, which are painted black and white, and a moat teeming with colorful koi carp. The castle was built on top of a series of mazelike passageways, designed to disorient and trap intruders. Visitors today, however, are welcomed and given tours. Outside the castle walls, Matsumoto seems designed for pedestrians, with wide, tree-lined boulevards tracing the breezy Metoba River. You can also explore the fascinating merchant—or nakamachi—district, a hub of low-slung, tile-roofed buildings where local artisans sell crafts and handiwork, such as furniture made without any nails.Getting There: The Azusa and Super Azusa express trains run from Tokyo's Shinjuku Station to Matsumoto every half hour. The journey takes about two hours and 40 minutes, and one-way fares cost $79 for non-reserved seats and about $86 for reserved seats. The castle is about a 15-minute walk from Matsumoto train station. Visiting: Admission to the castle is about $7.80. 7. ROTHENBURG OB DER TAUBER, GERMANY  Germany's so-called Romantic Road—which slices north to south through the southern German state of Bavaria—earned its name for its string of stunning castles. But most of the region's bastions are stand-alone tourist attractions, not thriving municipalities. A charming exception is Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a red-walled town set up on a hill above the Tauber River. It has all the pastoral views and scenery of the Romantic Road's other castle stops yet has a strong civic pulse, too. Walt Disney was so taken by the town, in fact, that he used it as inspiration for the village in the movie Pinocchio. An earthquake destroyed the castle's main tower in 1356, but the town's red-roofed medieval and Renaissance houses have endured for centuries and were fully restored after World War II. Visitors can tour the castle's stone towers—protected beneath covered walkways—and stop by its base, where crafts shops sell everything from antique clocks to handmade garden gnomes. Cuisine is celebrated here in a way it isn't in largerGerman cities like Frankfurt or Berlin, let alone in castle canteens elsewhere. You may come here for the shining armor—but you'll return for the delicious renditions of Bavarian comfort foods (more spätzle, anyone?).Getting There: The closest major tourist city to Rothenburg ob der Tauber is Munich, which sits about 130 miles southeast. Train service runs between the two cities and takes about three hours (tickets from $67). You can also drive: The A7 autobahn runs right past town.Visiting: Visiting the town is free. 8. SINTRA, PORTUGAL  Sintra is like the one-stop shop for castle lovers, with not one, not two, but three gorgeous castles. This medieval stronghold town is so beautiful it was called Glorious Eden by the British poet Lord Byron. The town's focal point, Sintra National Palace, is distinctive for its whimsical interiors: columns twisted like barley, an Arab-style courtyard situated around pretty fountains, and glazed tile work known as azulejos. Beyond the town's fortress walls—but still within walking distance—Pena National Palace, with its cupolas, minarets, and lookout towers in cherry, lemon, and white hues, stands on a hilltop overlooking a green forest. On another nearby hill, a once-proud Moorish castle lingers in romantic ruins. In between, the old town of Sintra has a mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and art nouveau homes, not to mention many stone-wall shops selling authentic antiques, wine, and paintings—all of this framed by a lushly forested seaside national park.Getting There: Sintra sits about 20 miles northwest of Lisbon. Trains run between the two destinations about every 20 minutes, out of Lisbon's Rossio station, and tickets cost $2.60 each way.Visiting: Entrance fees to the town's three castles range from $9.50 to $16.20; visiting the ruins is free. 9. PALMANOVA, ITALY  Founded in 1593 as a stronghold of the Venetian Republic, this UNESCO World Heritage town was built in a unique, 18-sided octadecagon shape. When viewed from above, the fortress community looks like a delicately made paper snowflake, with streets radiating out of the structure like sunbeams. Tucked into a valley with a lagoon running into the Adriatic Sea, the land surrounding Palmanova yields high-quality Chardonnay, while the local waters are stocked with mullet, sea bass, and other delicious fish. In town, look out for the symbol of a leafy bough, or a frasca, hanging outside of restaurants to pinpoint ones serving regionally sourced food, such as the classic Venetian dish baccalà, made with dry-salted cod. At night, the city's earth-and-stone defensive works are lit up like a movie set.Getting There: Palmanova sits between Venice and Trieste in northeastern Italy. It's accessible by car along the A4 and A23 motorways and Highway 352. Venice is 75 miles to the southwest, while Trieste is 34 miles to the southeast. The town also sits close to the Cervignano del Friuli station and is serviced by the Udine railway (prices vary). Visiting: Admission to the town's three castles is free. 10. CARCASSONNE, FRANCE  The beauty of Carcassonne is in the details. The well-restored Romanesque fortress city in southwestern France is known by the locals simply as La Cité. The castle's crenellated walls punctuate the sky, and the double line of ramparts looks wonderfully forbidding. The cone-shaped, slate-roofed towers are postcard-perfect. The town's stone streets have been populated since the fifth century. Carcassonne sits a mere one-hour drive from the Mediterranean Sea, meaning it's thousands of miles from Paris in both distance and attitude. It's an unexpected gastronomic and artistic hotspot, with restaurants dishing up modern takes on classical French cuisine, such as cassoulet with partridge, and a neoclassic Musée des Beaux Arts, which stands out for presenting masterworks by Courbet, Chardin, and Ingres, among others.Getting There: Carcassonne is on the main train line linking Toulouse, 50 minutes away (tickets from $20), with Narbonne, 30 minutes away (tickets from $15), and Montpellier, an hour and a half away (tickets from $29). About a dozen trains a day run on this line. Also, Ryanair is the only airline that offers flights in and out of Carcassonne’s airport, about three and a half miles outside of town. It has daily flights to and from London's Stansted Airport and Brussels's Charleroi Airport. It also offers flights from Carcassonne to Dublin and Liverpool (prices vary). Visiting: There is an $11.50 entrance fee for adults to visit the castle. Once inside, you can join a free, optional 45-minute tour of the ramparts; guides speak English (carcassonne.org).

The Five Busiest Airports in the U.S.

Los Angeles (LAX) FREE WI-FISpotty, but signals sometimes leak from airlines' VIP lounges. Try Air France in terminal 2 and Continental in terminal 6. A REALLY GOOD MEALThe New York Steak, ($28) at space-age-looking Encounter Restaurant, inspired by The Jetsons NEWSSTAND OPEN LATECrews of California (until 1:30 a.m.), international terminal LOCAL SNACK Chili dog ($3.45) at Pink's Hot Dogs, in the international terminal. GYM (AND SHOWER) 24 Hour Fitness, a five-minute walk (or free shuttle) from the Hilton, day pass $10. LATE EATSRoast beef sandwich ($9.75), at Bistro at the Hilton Hotel (24 hours). GREAT PLANE-WATCHING SITELong-term parking lot C. SOME TLCIn the international terminal, reLAX lounge has snacks and Wi-Fi for $15 an hour.   Atlanta (ATL) A REALLY GOOD MEALThe BBQ pork platter ($9) at Paschal's, in concourse A. SOMEWHERE TO NAPPadded loveseats in the Atrium, between the north and south terminals. LOCAL SNACK The Waldorf salad sandwich ($7) at Atlanta Bread Company, in the Atrium, gate C24. SOME TLCThe Minute Suites, near gate B15, have private daybeds, TV, and Wi-Fi, for $30 an hour. GREAT PLANE-WATCHING SPOT The roof of the Terminal South Parking lot. LUGGAGE STORAGEWrap-a-Bag, in the north and south terminals, large bag $8 for 24 hours. NOTABLE ART African sculptures, by the T gates. DECENT BOOKSTORE Buckhead Books, terminals B, C (open until 10 p.m.), and D (until 11 p.m.). FREE WI-FIFood Court in concourse E, especially near the Caribou Coffee Shop.   Chicago (ORD) SOMEWHERE TO NAPCots and blankets provided by the airport's Passenger Assistance Program; check with your carrier. SOME TLCBackRub Hub, in terminal 3, massages $13.50 for 10 minutes. NEWSSTAND OPEN LATEHudson News (until 10:30 p.m.), near gates B18, E4, K12. LATE EATS Sports Edition, at the Hilton Hotel (until 1 a.m.), cheeseburger $15. GYM (AND SHOWER)O'Hare Hilton, day pass $20 LOCAL SNACKCorned-beef sandwich ($8) at Berghoff Cafe, in terminal 1, concourse C. OUTLETS ALMOST NEVER BEING USEDOn either side of the jetway doors, a foot or so off the ground. A REALLY GOOD MEALTortas Frontera, a casual Latino restaurant from Chef Rick Bayless, in terminal 1, gate B11, open-face bacon-and-cheese sandwich $6. STUFF TO DO WITH THE KIDS Chicago Children's Museum play area, in terminal 2, free.   Dallas (DFW) STUFF TO DO WITH THE KIDS Free Pepsi Junior Flyer's Club play areas, gates B12 and C14. A STIFF DRINK Mojito ($8) at Blue Mesa Taco and Tequila Bar, near gate D31. SOMEWHERE TO NAPCouches in the Samsung Mobile Travel Lounges, gates A29, B8, B28, C8, C27, E8, E31. LOCAL SNACKPulled-pork sandwich ($6.50) at Cousins' Bar-B-Q, near gate D27, in terminal D GREAT PLANE-WATCHING SPOTFounders' Plaza Observation Area, at the intersection of Texan Trail and North Airfield Drive. NEWSSTAND OPEN LATEHudson News (until 10 p.m.), near gate B23. KILL LOTS OF TIME Bear Creek Golf Club, on the airport grounds, $7 cab ride, from $25 for a round. LATE EATSCappuccino ($4.75), at Moka Cafe, inside the Grand Hyatt, off terminal D (open 24 hours). NOTABLE ARTSol Lewitt installations, in the international terminal.   Denver (DEN) CATCH UP ON WORKBusiness Center Services, on the mezzanine level of the B gates, offers Internet, a landline phone, and fax machines. GREAT PLANE-WATCHING SPOT Pedestrian bridge connecting Jeppesen and terminal A. A REALLY GOOD MEALTimberline Steaks & Grille, concourse C, 10-ounce rib eye $24. NEWSSTAND OPEN LATEHudson News, Jeppesen terminal, level 5 (open 24 hours). SOME TLC A Massage, gate A49 and mezzanine near concourse B, 15-minute neck-and-shoulder rub $25. LATE EATS Barbecue-chicken pizza ($9.50) at Chef Jimmy's Bistro (open until 11:30 p.m.), in terminal A. NOTABLE ARTLuis Jimenez's 32-foot-tall Mustang (which actually fell on Jimenez and killed him before it was completed). LUGGAGE STORAGEAirport Baggage Center, Jeppesen terminal, level 5, large bag $15 for 24 hours. PLUS: 4 Common Airport Security Questions—Answered!

4 Common Airport Security Questions—Answered!

I'm pretty unhappy about walking through the full-body scanners. What can I do? You can always request a pat-down if you're worried about the radiation exposure, but that can still feel personally invasive. The good news is that the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has begun adjusting the software in its full-body scanners so that they deliver only outlines, not near-naked images of your business. The scanners now search for hidden objects under a passenger's clothes; the torso itself is more of an outline, undefined to the point of being genderless. The software has been used in Washington, D.C., Atlanta, Minneapolis, and Las Vegas and is being rolled out across the country over the next few months. So will I still have to take my shoes off? Yes, for now, though the TSA did say in September that children 12 and younger would now be allowed to keep their shoes on during security screenings. The change came after a successful pilot program in select airports this summer, and the TSA has been testing other potential changes as well. Pre-approved frequent fliers with Delta Air Lines in Atlanta and Detroit as well as frequent fliers with American Airlines in Miami and Dallas are being subjected to fewer security stops as part of a move to a more "intelligence-driven" system focusing on "higher-risk" passengers. You might also notice "behavior detection officers" chatting with passengers in casual conversation, looking for indications of suspicious behavior. Frankly, that all sounds like it will make things more confusing, not less. It's true—the rules change frequently and without notice. During the holidays last year, there was a last-minute warning, based on intelligence at the time, that required extra scrutiny of empty thermoses and insulated coffee mugs. In general, the most familiar requirements haven't changed: Take out your laptop; liquids are limited to 3.4 ounces; shoes come off, etc.  But you should check the TSA's website (tsa.gov) before you fly next. Or download the agency's free mobile app (tsa.gov/mobile), which includes both updated security procedures and the nifty feature of letting people in airports share how long they wait for security in real time.   Any other tips to save time beyond security? Check in online and print your boarding pass at home, or have it sent to your smartphone. If you're checking a bag, you'll also save time going online because you can prepay any baggage fees. When you get to the airport, you may have access to a less crowded bag-drop-off line, reserved for those who have already checked in. Prepaying for your checked bags at major airlines used to be cheaper, too, but not any more. Shocking!   SEE MORE POPULAR CONTENT: 7 Surprising Items That Set Off Airport Security Top Budget Travel Destinations for 2012 8 Items You Never Pack...But Should World's Prettiest Castle Towns 10 Most Interesting Beaches

The Grand Canyon, 3 Ways

#1: THE DRIVE BY, SOUTH RIM For all its stature as an American icon, the Grand Canyon belongs to the world, too. On any given day, the South Rim may be the country's most diverse place, an international village with a population that changes by the hour. Buddhist monks in saffron robes and Mennonite women in black bonnets. Busloads of grand-touring Germans and giggling Japanese teens moving and texting in packs. Even a Scotsman playing bagpipes for an audience of hikers and curious ravens on a promontory. WHERE TO START: Grand Canyon Visitor Center. A short walk to Mather Point, the newly renovated center shows a free, 20-minute orientation film twice an hour in its new auditorium. nps.gov/grca. WHERE TO STAY: Bright Angel Lodge. Less than a hundred feet from the rim, this National Landmark is celebrated for its history-and its ice-cream fountain. grandcanyonlodges.com, rooms from $81, ice-cream $2.65. WHERE TO EAT: Arizona Room Steaks. This is the place for BBQ ribs, chicken, and fish, all served with a Southwestern flavor. grandcanyonlodges.com/arizona-room-418.html, lime-marinated chicken $16.50. WHERE TO GO: Kolb Studio Art Exhibits. Rotating exhibits on canyon art, archaeology, and history, as well as a permanent display of the Kolb Brothers' seminal photos. grandcanyon.org/kolb, admission free. DON'T MISS: Even the quickie canyon visitor to do one thing: Hike below the rim on Bright Angel Trail. That's because as the mile-plus trail drops, it redefines the space. Cliffs that appeared insignificant tower above the trail; woodlands thin out to scrubbier, desert-like vegetation.   #2 THE LONG WEEKEND, NORTH RIM A five-hour drive from the nearest major airport, the North Rim attracts the sort of visitors inclined to linger. They pause a little longer at the lookouts. They store up on provisions for a hike, and along the route, they'll see ecosystems change as if they'd walked from Canada to Mexico, and the rocks on view age more than a billion years. It's a trip through space and time. WHERE TO START: North Rim Visitor Center. Get tips from a park ranger, visit the bookstore, and take in interpretive programs. nps.gov/grca. WHERE TO STAY: Grand Canyon Lodge. The only lodge within the North Rim, it features cabins with stunning views and simpler motel rooms with private baths. foreverlodging.com, from $116. WHERE TO EAT: Grand Canyon Cookout. Experience Slow-cooked brisket, roasted chicken, and an evening of country music under the stars. foreverlodging.com, adults $35, children 6-15 $22, June 1-Sept. 30. WHAT TO DO: Mule Trips. Guided rides from an hourlong trip along the rim to a half-day excursion descending 2,300 feet down into the Supai Tunnel. nps.gov/grca, one-hour trip $40, half-day $75, ages 7 and older. DON'T MISS: The North Kaibab Trail stretches 14 miles and is the only maintained trail that leads to the Colorado River. The rim-to-river round-trip requires one overnight, at least, with ample rest along the way. Refuel at Roaring Springs, a half-mile below the rim, and up camp at the Cottonwood Campground, Bright Angel Campground, or Phantom Ranch.   #3 THE FULL WEEK, NORTH AND SOUTH RIMS After a few days of a weeklong trip, something happens. A moment comes when the canyon ceases to be an icon and finally becomes real. In a world where the instantaneous isn't fast enough, the Grand Canyon measures time not in billionths of seconds but in billions of years. You can't tweet the Grand Canyon. The panoramas keep changing, and with every mile, the canyon becomes a living place, not an extra-wide postcard. WHERE TO STAY/EAT: El Tovar. The dining room is built of pine and native stone, the veranda views are spectacular, and Teddy Roosevelt himself slept here. grandcanyonlodges.com, rooms from $178 (kids under 16 stay free), wild salmon $24. WHERE TO GO: All-Star Grand Canyon Tours. Guided excursions, from a short, no-sweat option in an SUV to longer backpacking hikes. allstargrandcanyontours.com, adults from $120, kids 4-15 $90, toddlers 3 and under $55. WHAT TO DO: Grand Canyon Field Institute. Run by a nonprofit partner of the park, the institute offers single- or multiday classes in photography, natural history, archaeology, and more. grandcanyon.org/fieldinstitute, classes from $195. HOW TO CAMP: Permits can be requested in person or in writing no earlier than four months before a trip. nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountry-permit.htm, $10 fee, plus $5 per person per night spent camping below the rim. DON'T MISS: The most compelling reason for a week in the canyon is to visit both rims. At nearly 9,000 feet, the North Rim sits more than 1,000 feet higher than the South. The extra elevation reverses the familiar perspective and puts you closer to the epic temples and plateaus. Suddenly, amazingly, the Grand Canyon feels new again.