Stranded by the Volcano: 6 Lessons Learned

By Arianne Cohen
April 30, 2010
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Johannes Eisele/Reuters/Corbis
Arianne Cohen was one of countless travelers stranded in London after officials grounded more than 100,000 flights because of the Icelandic volcano eruption. Heed her advice so you'll be prepared for whatever strikes next.

Go to the airport every day for the best shot at open seats
When the ash cloud lifted, I was on one of the first flights out of London. How did I escape faster than most of the 40,000 other Americans stuck in Britain? And even more mysteriously, why did my London-to-Seattle flight have…lots of empty seats? (A lot of them?!) Here's what happened: The passengers holding tickets for those seats were stuck at other airports and had missed their connections. Americans stranded in London could have grabbed those empty seats had they been at the airport, willing to rebook onto an earlier flight at the last-minute. But they stayed at their hotels instead, or had already been re-ticketed on flights later in the week. The few Americans who did slip onto the early flight with me got on because they were waiting at the airport, waiting. The moral of the story: Chance favors travelers who hang around the airport hoping to take advantage of last-minute opportunities.

Write down the names and addresses of everyone you meet while you're traveling
I have zero friends in England. But my laptop happened to have the contact information for a British friend I had met when traveling in the Laotian city of Luang Prabang in 2003, and for another Briton I had met while touring Germany in 2007. When I contacted them, each offered me a place to stay, which, as hotel nightly rates reached about £400 (or roughly $600) per night, was a lifesaver. In the future, I'll jot down names and phone numbers as I go, storing them in my cell phone, computer, or in notebooks—just in case.

Bring extra medications
Most of the horror stories I heard were from Americans with major health issues who were out of medication. Many had brought a few spare pills but simply never imagined they'd be stuck for upward of 10 days. They spent many anxious hours trying to track down additional pills and then paid through the nose for prescriptions. It was a stressful ordeal, even for people whose health care policies will reimburse them for their purchases. And, yes, ladies, this applies to you: Bring an extra month of birth control pills, always.

Have a backup planfor your family and your pets
The people who were most panicked were those with children and pets at home—and no backup plan. My dog sitter was fantastic, but she also had the name of a friend of mine with keys to my home who is kind enough to take care of Mabel the poodle anytime. Keep an extra house sitter, dog sitter, and babysitter on standby, and make sure they have all of the relevant keys before you go.

Join Skype and Pingo ahead of time
Yes, everyone knows about the free Internet-based telephone service Skype. But old-fashioned discount calling cards, such as those sold by Pingo or Nobel, may be a better way to call internationally, because you don't need Wi-Fi access. I was particularly glad that I was already a member of Pingo (with $5 in my account) the moment the first airports closed. I just picked up any pay phone, dialed the toll-free local access number, and called my boss's cell phone to tell him the situation. As the week dragged on, I reached out to others on Skype, calling people's cell phones and office lines to update them on my predicament and sending text messages for free (because texts on my cell cost 35¢ a pop). Savvy travelers may want to set up Skype Mobile on their phones or iPod Touches before they go abroad to take advantage of free texting-whether there's a crisis or not.

Consider rebooking a flight on an airline with the largest presence at your airport
A travel meltdown in one corner of the globe can create a ripple effect worldwide as planes and flight crews end up scattered far from where they need to be. Airlines make every effort to get their planes back to their hub (or "main airport")—and to get back on schedule. I was booked on British Airways, which was lucky for me because the airline spent the no-fly week running passenger-free flights to get planes back into position at the hub in Heathrow. On the flip side, my boyfriend, who was stranded in JFK en route to London, wasn't so fortunate. He was on an Air France flight, and the airline was trying to get its planes back to its home base…in Paris. Six hours after the airports opened, I was boarding one of the dozens of empty planes at British Airways' hub in Heathrow. My boyfriend was delayed for days. So what's my advice? If you're stuck at an airport, ask an agent which airlines have a hub there. If your airline doesn't have major operations there, consider cashing in your ticket for a refund and rebooking a flight on an airline that has a lot more planes available.

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San Francisco's Best Street Food

Note: The location of these trucks and carts varies from day to day. We've listed where you are most likely to spot the delicious grub, but if you want more-specific locations, sign up for each establishment's Twitter feed. Magic Curry Kart 'Hood: Mission District Pulled together from the spare parts of three bicycles and equipped with a checkered tabletop, two burners, and a Buddha statue for good luck, Brian Kimball's Magic Curry Kart is a roving, oddball kitchen serving up the former psychotherapist's Thai curry. Kimball learned to make the dish while traveling in Southeast Asia, and he limits his menu to chicken or tofu simmered with veggies in a homemade red, green, or yellow pumpkin curry paste, all heaped atop a bed of steaming white rice. Once a month, a Vietnamese rice porridge (or chao) covered with chicken, fried shallots, green onions, and mung beans makes it into the rotation. The best part: Kimball will deduct $1 from the meal if you bring your own food container. Twitter feed. From $6. Crème Brûlée Cart 'Hood: Mission District A carpenter by trade, Curtis Kimball was busy remodeling San Francisco's iconic Edwardian houses before he turned his attention to building the Crème Brûlée Cart over a year ago (inspired by his brother Brian's cart, which debuted one week earlier). Dressed in chef whites and armed with a butane torch, Curtis adds unusual flavors to the basic crème brulee recipe with splendid results: Try the orange creamsicle, the dark-chocolate peppermint, or the Baileys Irish Cream, all of which are listed on a bistro-style chalkboard on the front of his cart. Served in a three-inch tin, the creamy dessert has a caramelized top that cracks delightfully with a spoon. Fabric8 courtyard, 3318 22nd St., between Guerrero and Valencia Sts. 6 p.m–8 p.m. Fridays. Twitter feed. From $4. Liba Falafel Truck 'Hood: The base of Potrero Hill Amsterdam's falafel stands were the inspiration for chef Gail Lillian's 7-month-old Liba-mobile. Decorated with bright flowers and lime-green signage, the truck has a self-serve condiment bar with 15 different toppings made from scratch, like an olive-orange relish with thyme and a dill-and-cardamom pickle. For her own favorite falafel, Lillian uses a wheat pita and layers the organic chickpea fritters with hummus and a kicky harissa; then she adds pickled onions and homemade tomato ginger chutney before tossing in rosemary peanuts for extra crunch. A side of hand-cut sweet-potato fries with cilantro, garlic, and lime makes for a satisfying meal. 155 De Haro St. at Alameda St., 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Fridays. Twitter feed. (Also call 415/806-5422). Falafel sandwich from $5, sweet-potato fries $2. RoliRoti 'Hood: Embarcadero Thomas Odermatt grew up working at his dad's butcher shop in the Swiss Alps. He now operates the RoliRoti rotisserie truck, with its 26 smoothly rotating skewers that can roast up to 80 free-range chickens at a time. Odermatt cooks his meat selections (including seasonal choices like lamb in the spring and duck in the winter) at the same low, even temperature for up to two hours, and the meat bastes itself with the drippings from higher racks. But it's the porchetta sandwich—roasted pork loin wrapped in crisp pork belly and doused in pinot grigio—that has tourists lining up at 8:30 a.m. on Saturdays at his Ferry Building Marketplace location. He can sell about 350 of the juicy sandwiches on a good day. Ferry Building Marketplace, 1 Ferry Building, 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Thursdays, 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Saturdays. Twitter feed. $6–$12. Kung Fu Tacos 'Hood: Financial District Traditional taquerias are plentiful in San Francisco, so when drinking buddies Jonathan Ward and Tan Truong decided to launch a taco truck last August, they went with a Chinese twist and dubbed it Kung Fu Tacos. Their weekly lunchtime spot (in an unassuming parking lot around the corner from the Transamerica building) draws hungry office workers who favor the tortilla packed with lean and juicy roast duck and topped with mango salsa, hoisin sauce, and green onions. Steak and chicken tacos come dressed in a spicy Asian salsa made with ginger and carrot; other taco options are char siu (barbecue pork), mu shu veggies, and the unlisted menu item "dork"—a duck-and-pork combo. Three tacos washed down with a Coca-Cola from Mexico—sweetened with real cane sugar—generally get the job done. Sacramento St. between Montgomery and Kearny Sts., 11:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Twitter feed. From $2. Pizza Politana 'Hood: Embarcadero Chez Panisse alum Joel Baecker and his chef-wife Naomi Crawford were honeymooning in Italy when they got the idea for Pizza Politana. Upon returning, they imported an authentic Neapolitan wood-fired oven and had it mounted on a motorcycle trailer. In no time, they were peddling perfectly blistered nine-inch pies outside trendy bars and at farmers markets in the Bay Area. The pepperoni—made with artisanal sausage—is a staple, and the farmer's pizza is topped with seasonal, local ingredients like Meyer lemon, stinging nettles (no ouch factor here—the nettles don't sting after cooking), and green garlic. Half the fun is standing curbside and watching as Baecker and Crawford stretch and top the dough on your very own pie. Ferry Building Marketplace, 1 Ferry Building, 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Thursdays. Twitter feed. $8–$12. Good Foods Caters 'Hood: Bernal Heights Good Foods Caters owner Dontaye Ball developed his famous pulled pork recipe while working as a cook at Google. He marinates the meat in a spice rub for two days, smokes it for six hours, braises it for another six and a half hours, then pulls it into shreds. The all-natural pork is slathered with a homemade, secret-recipe bacon barbecue sauce and spicy coleslaw, and served up in a dripping kaiser roll. To really up the ante, ask for "The Eliminator": pork, brisket, and bacon piled atop a whole-wheat bun. Ball works over his portable grill at the same farmers market he visited as a kid—when sizzling with hot links, smoked chicken wings, and pork belly chunks, the grill can reach a temperature of 600 degrees Fahreinheit. Alemany Market, 100 Alemany Blvd., 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Saturdays. Twitter feed. $3–$10. Sam's ChowderMobile 'Hood: Varies Manned by chef Kevin Ballantine, who trained at the California Culinary Academy, the big red truck known as Sam's ChowderMobile is the nomadic outpost of Sam's Chowder House, located in Half Moon Bay, 30 minutes south of San Francisco. The lunchtime specialty is a Maine lobster roll that's cooked on the spot and served "naked"—with no mayo to disguise the crustacean's natural flavor. It's a pricey $15, but the toasted hot dog bun is stuffed full of tender meat tossed in a drizzle of melted butter (Ok, so it's not totally naked). A clam chowder loaded with littleneck clams, Yukon gold potatoes, and bacon goes for a more affordable $5, and the delicious fish tacos, fish-and-chips, and calamari are reasonably priced at $5 to $11, too. Twitter feed.

9 Cities, 9 Parties for World Cup Soccer

BERLINThe big party: A mile-long sea of black, red, and gold will stretch from the Brandenburg Gate to the Victory Column when half a million fans fill the Strasse des 17. Juni to watch matches shown on boulevard-wide screens—all 48 of the matches from the second round through the final. Marquee matchup: If all goes according to plan, look for an elimination-round clash between Germany and the U.S. on June 27 at 4 p.m. Sing-along: "Auf geht's, Deutschland, schiesst ein Tor, schiesst ein Tor, schiesst ein Tor!" ("Let's go, Germany; goal, goal, goal!") Sideline tip: For a slightly smaller party, catch first-round action (with bratwurst and pilsners) at Prater Garten, a 173-year-old beer garden with picnic-table seating for 600. BOSTONThe big party: The largest World Cup viewing party in the U.S. will take place at Boston's City Hall Plaza, a red-brick and concrete square with one huge selling point: room for the 300,000 people anticipated to show up and watch the final at July 11 at 2:30 p.m. Marquee matchup: Brazil, Italy, Germany, France, and Spain are the most likely contenders to make the final match. Longer shots include the U.S. Go team! Sing-along: Stick with the universal soccer anthem, "Olé, olé, olé, olé," and you'll be fine regardless of which teams reach the final. Spirit colors: Boston was painted red, white, and green when Italy won its fourth title in 2006—expect a crowd lopsided in that country's favor if the Azzurri reach the final again. Sideline tip: The recently renovated Boston Children's Museum gets in on the South African excitement with a two-day festival of African food, music, and dance, June 11 and 12 (308 Congress St., 617/426-6500). CHICAGOThe big party: The Chicago Bears' house welcomes a different brand of football, with 40,000 people expected to watch the July 11 final on the Jumbotron at Soldier Field. Admission is $20. Marquee matchup: If the U.S. or Mexico makes the final, expect a sellout crowd closer to the stadium's 63,000-person capacity. Sing-along: American soccer fans are still looking for their own fight song. In the meantime, chants of "U-S-A, U-S-A!" are sure to fill the air if our team reaches the championship. Sideline tip: During the rest of game day at Soldier Field, walk around the World Cup Festival, with South African movie screenings and a French Bastille Day feast. On May 10, a couple of months before the key day, catch an early look at the Mexican team in a Soldier Field exhibition match against Senegal. MEXICO CITYThe big party: Up to 100,000 fans will fill the Plaza de la Constitución, a square framed by the National Palace—the baroque building that serves as the seat of the federal government—and the gorgeous Metropolitan Cathedral, to watch Mexico's matches on huge outdoor screens. Marquee matchup: Mexico is the favorite as it takes on host country South Africa in the tournament's opening game, June 11 at 9 a.m. Sing-along: "Cielito Lindo" ("Pretty Sweetheart"), a traditional song adopted as an anthem for the soccer team: "Ay, ay, ay, ay, canta y no llores" ("Ay, ay, ay, ay, sing and don't cry"). Sideline tip: Because of the time difference, games start as early as 6 a.m. in Mexico—a headache that can be treated with a café con leche and sweet pastries from nearby Café de Tacuba. Or a cerveza from Salón Corona ($2) if you want to start the party early. PARISThe big party: In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, 15,000 fans will pile into the grassy mall known as the Trocadéro every match day, watching giant TVs and hoping to cheer the Blues to a third consecutive final. Marquee matchup: If France breezes through the early rounds as expected, look for a quarterfinal showdown with another title contender, England, on July 2 at 8:30 p.m. Sing-along: There's no signature song, but there's plenty of screaming of "Allez les Bleus!" ("Go Blues!"). Sideline tip: Just two days after the final match, the celebration will likely move down the Seine River to Place de la Bastille for an annual dance party that promises to be especially festive if the French squad wins a championship. RIO DE JANEIROThe big party: If celebrating were a competitive sport, five-time World Cup champ Brazil would be unbeatable. Case in point: 32 straight days of 20,000-person Copacabana Beach parties, starting with a pre-Cup concert June 10 and including live beach broadcasts of all 64 matches. Marquee matchup: Clash of the titans against sixth-ranked Portugal, June 25 at 11 a.m. Sing-along: "A Taça do Mundo é nossa! Com Brasileiro, não há quem possa!" ("The World Cup is ours! No one can handle Brazilians!"). Sideline tip: Drop by Estádio do Maracanã, one of the world's largest stadiums and site of the 2014 World Cup. Even if the stadium is closed to tours because of renovations, you can stand in the pavement footprints of soccer greats Pelé and Ronaldo at the accompanying museum (Rua Professor Eurico Rabelo, 011-55/21-2234-1705, $11). ROMEThe big party: There's only a footprint left of the Circus Maximus stadium where ancient Romans gathered to watch chariot races, but it's a large footprint. About 700,000 fans packed into this standing-room-only grassy knoll (and the nearby streets) to watch Italy's team hoist the 2006 World Cup trophy. Feeling bullish about a repeat, Rome will invite fans to watch every 2010 match here. Even Caesar would have been impressed by the anticipated crowds. Marquee matchup: Italy vs. up-and-coming power Paraguay, June 14 at 8:30 p.m. Sing-along: No one is quite sure why Italian fans took to chanting to the tune of the White Stripes' "Seven Nation Army" during the team's 2006 title run, but they liked the result and have stuck with the song ("I'm gonna fight 'em off/A seven-nation army couldn't hold me back"). Fans sing along to the pounding guitar riff: "Po-po-po-po-po-PO-ooh." Sideline tip: The viewing parties are just one part of this year's Estate Romana (Roman summer), a four-month festival of open-air movies, concerts, and sporting events in classic settings like the ancient stone amphitheater at the port of Ostia Antica, including the Golden Gala, a track-and-field event that brings world-class athletes to Stadio Olimpico on June 10 (estateromana.comune.roma.it). SYDNEYThe big party: Australia's enthusiasm for its boys in green and gold will be on full display in Darling Harbour, where two floating Jumbotrons are set to screen every game for the total of 30,000 fans watching for free from adjacent Cockle Bay Wharf and Tumbalong Park. Expect fireworks by the Harbour Bridge if the Australian heroes triumph. Marquee matchup: Australia vs. three-time champ Germany, June 14 at 4:30 a.m. Sing-along: "Waltzing Matilda," a nationalistic ballad about a noble sheep thief, is the raucous anthem belted out during games. Crowds will sing lines about the itinerant worker (called a swagman) who dove into a small lake (a billabong) to escape capture: "Up jumped the swagman and sprang into the billabong, 'You'll never take me alive,' said he." Sideline tip: Stay awake before the late-night (and early-morning) matches with lively experimental music, film and theater events at the Vivid Sydney festival, held at the Sydney Opera House and various other locations May 27 through June 21. TOKYOThe big party: Up to 37,000 fans, many clad in all-blue outfits topped with red-sun headbands, will head to the Saitama Super Arena to watch their Samurai Blue play first-round matches on the big screens, while the national team mascot, a blue-shirted, soccer-playing bird, leads the cheers. Marquee matchup: Japan vs. Netherlands, June 19 at 8:30 p.m., for the home country's likely do or die. Sing-along: Japanese fans are considerate enough to craft chants opponents will understand, as in "Vamos Nippon!" That one just means: "Let's go, Japan!" Sideline tip: Like in the U.S. (but almost nowhere else in the world), baseball is more popular here than soccer is, so even more intense fans are on tap at the Tokyo Dome during Yomiuri Giants games (1-31-61 Koraku, no phone orders, tickets from $11).

The Best Baguette in Paris

Unlike other French icons that have fallen by the wayside—the beret, the cigarette, Brigitte Bardot—the baguette remains a celebrated part of France's national culture. That's especially true in Paris, the birthplace of the baguette, which hosts an annual competition to identify the city's finest loaf. The Grand Prix de la Meilleure Baguette de Paris (the best baguette in Paris) contest has been making headlines every year since it began in 1993. That's the same year the government passed a law to distinguish an authentic baguette de tradition from the frozen imposters that had become a bane on the city. How can you tell which is which? Authentic loaves have a deep golden-yellow hue, a crust that smells nutty or grilled, and an interior texture that is elastic and tender, containing holes of uneven size. If your baguette is fluffy and uniform, you've probably been had. A record number of authentic baguettes were entered into the annual competition on March 22. After ploughing through a pile of 141 loaves and rating each on appearance, aroma, crumb, and taste (no word on the swimsuit part of the competition), the jury handed down the 2010 prize. THE 2010 WINNER LE GRENIER À PAIN ABBESSES 38 rue des Abbesses, 18th arr. Nearest Métro stop: Abbesses (line 12) or Blanche (line 2). Open 7:30 a.m.–8 p.m. Thursday to Monday; closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Baker Djibril Bodian from Le Grenier à Pain bakery, which placed fourth in the 2007 competition and fifth in 2009, snagged a cash prize of $5,400 (€4,000) and a contract to keep French President Nicolas Sarkozy in bread throughout the coming year. Bodian's baguette, which attracts long lines outside the Montmartre bakery, has a crispy and flavorful crust with hints of roasted hazelnut. Its chewy interior is marked by the irregular holes that are a sign of long and traditional fermentation. Beyond the baguette: Bodian's pain de trois—a dark, crusty, and intensely flavored loaf—is fantastic. As the name suggests, it's composed of three flours, including sourdough, and keeps well for several days. The bakery also makes gorgeous glazed breads stuffed with dried fruit and candied nuts. In the 'hood: Climb a few hundred stairs to reach the Sacré-Coeur cathedral, or take a rest while gazing at the nearby "I love you" wall. >> Slide show: See photos of 5 of Paris' best bakeries >> Baguette Protocol: Is there a best way to eat them? How long do they last? How do you ask for one properly? 9 MORE STANDOUTS LE GRENIER DE FÉLIX, baker Franck Tombarel 64 ave. Félix Faure, 15th arr. Nearest Métro stop: Boucicaut (line 8). Open from 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday through Friday and 7 a.m.–1:30 p.m. on Saturdays; closed Sundays. Baguette awards: First place in 2009 and fourth place in 2008. Beyond the baguette: Tombarel's pain Allemand is a darker German bread studded with sunflower seeds. The salty-sweet combination of hazelnut, walnut, and raisin in the céréales aux fruits secs is delicious, as well. In the 'hood: The futuristic Parc André Citroën is far off and makes a nice spot for a Seine-side picnic. For those who are attending a fair or festival, like the Salon International de l'Agriculture, the Paris Expo center is in the same arrondissement. LA PARISIENNE, baker Daniel Pouphary 28 rue Monge, 5th arr. Nearest Métro stop: Cardinal Lemoine (line 10) or Jussieu (line 7). Open 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday through Friday; closed Saturdays and Sundays. Baguette awards: Second place in 2010. Beyond the baguette: Don't miss Pouphary's unusual variety of croissants, including noix de coco (coconut) and chocolat lait noisette (milk chocolate and hazelnut). Substantial sandwiches like ham and chèvre on a poppyseed baguette are packaged into a daily lunch special with a drink and dessert for €3.30 ($4.50). In the 'hood: In the heart of the Latin Quarter, La Parisienne is near the sprawling gardens of the Jardin des Plantes and the mosaic-tiled tearoom of the Paris Mosque. The market street of Mouffetard is just a few minutes away by foot. BOULANGERIE 134 RDT, baker Benjamin Turquier 134 rue de Turenne, 3rd arr. Nearest Métro stop: République (lines 3, 5, 8, 9, 11). Open 7:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Monday through Friday and 8:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m. on Saturdays; closed Sundays. Baguette awards: Second place in 2009. Beyond the baguette: The addictive Schwarzbrot (black bread) from this bakery is a standout and is especially nice paired with cheese or salmon. The pavé des près, dotted with flaxseed and sunflower seeds, is a lovely alternative. In the 'hood: The northern Marais is filled with independent designer shops, especially on rue Charlot. Chocolate junkies should be sure to hit the Jacques Genin boutique and tasting salon—it's directly across the street from the bakery. LA BOULANG'EURY, baker Stéphane Eury 98 rue de Meaux, 19th arr. Nearest Métro stop: Laumière (line 5). Open 7:15 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sundays and Mondays. Baguette awards: Third place in 2009 and Ninth place in 2008. Beyond the baguette: The round loaves stuffed with figs and nuts are the perfect accompaniment for cheese. Eury's apple tart, which won third place in the Meilleure Tarte aux Pommes-de d'Ile de France apple tart competition, is a treat nobody should miss. In the 'hood: This bakery is perfectly situated between two prime picnic spots: the Parc des Buttes Chaumont and the Bassin de la Villette. It's also a short walk from the Parc de la Villette, where you'll find an open-air film festival in July and August. BOULANGERIE RÉGIS COLIN, baker Régis Colin 53 rue de Montmartre, 2nd arr. Nearest Métro stop: Sentier (line 3) and Étienne Marcel (line 4). Open 6:30 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday through Friday; closed Saturdays and Sundays. Baguette awards: Seventh place in 2008 and second place in 2007. Beyond the baguette: Colin has picked up a pile of awards for his croissants beurre, or plain butter croissants. The bakery's galette des Rois—a traditional tart with almond frangipane—is arguably the best in the city. In the 'hood: The Palais Royal, with its secluded interior garden, is just a short stroll away. You can reach this bakery from the Louvre in less than 10 minutes. BOULANGERIE ALEXINE, baker Alexandre Planchais 40 rue Lepic, 18th arr. Nearest Métro stop: Abbesses (line 12) or Blanche (line 2). Open 7 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday; closed Sundays. Closes at 8 p.m. on Saturdays. Baguette awards: 10th place in 2008 and eighth place in 2007. Beyond the baguette: This bakery's famous baguette aux céréales is a delicious departure from the traditional white baguette. The whole-grain loaf is decorated with a confetti of seeds—a sort of long and lean "everything" baguette. In the 'hood: A few doors down from Le Grenier à Pain, this second top bakery in Abbesses allows you to compare and choose your favorite baguette. Alexine is near the spectacular Montmartre cemetery, as well. ARNAUD DELMONTEL, baker Arnaud Delmontel 39 rue des Martyrs, 9th arr. Nearest Métro stop: Saint-Georges (line 12) or Pigalle (lines 2, 12). Open 7 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Wednesday through Monday; closed Tuesdays. Baguette awards: First place in 2007. Beyond the baguette: Try Delmontel's pure-rye round loaf called tourte auvergnate or his Kougelhopf, a sort of Alsatian coffee cake. You can celebrate the neighborhood by ordering the SoPi (named after the South of Pigalle district): a towering red and black cake erected from chocolate and piment d'Espelette (hot peppers). In the 'hood: SoPi is a trendy stretch along the rue des Martyrs and includes a good number of boutiques, cafés, and restaurants. It's a great area for exploring on foot and only a 10-minute walk from Montmartre. GOSSELIN, baker Philippe Gosselin 258 blvd. St.-Germain, 7th arr. Nearest Métro stop: Solférino (line 12). Open 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday through Friday and 7:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. on Saturdays; closed Sundays. Baguette awards: Fifth place in 2010. Beyond the baguette: Desserts like the Everest—a small mountain of cake topped with bright-red gooseberries—are even more tasty when taken and nibbled at one of the nearby monuments. The pain au levain, or sourdough bread, is a simple but delicious option. In the 'hood: The Musée d'Orsay is just around the corner, and the Esplanade des Invalides and the Seine River are only a few minutes away by foot. LA PRAIRIE DE COQUELICOT, baker Thierry Racoillet 50 rue de Douai, 9th arr. Nearest Métro stop: Blanche (line 2) or Place de Clichy (lines 2, 13). Open 7:30 a.m.–2 p.m. and 3:30 p.m.–8 p.m. Monday through Friday and 7:30 a.m.–2 p.m on Saturdays; closed Sundays. Baguette awards: Seventh place in 2009 and sixth place in 2007. Beyond the baguette: Racoillet's baguette de tradition is the one that takes home the ribbons, but locals also adore his Picolla baguette. This hand-worked loaf has a denser and chewier crumb than the fluffy traditional baguette. A second location in Montmartre, called simply Coquelicot, features an upstairs dining room where you can pair the baguette with eggs and bacon. In the 'hood: The prize-winning location in the 9th is just around the corner from the Moulin Rouge.