A New Way to See Versailles

By Laura MacNeil
October 18, 2006
0610_antoinette
Sony Pictures

Sofia Coppola's film Marie Antoinette, which opens tomorrow (Oct. 20), envelops her characters and her audience in the luxury of Versailles, France's former royal palace.

Coppola got unprecedented access to film its rooms and gardens, but you don't need a royal pedigree or film crew to see the same settings yourself. One-day passes to the whole estate begin at $20--and for the first time as of July, that includes Marie Antoinette's estate and gardens (chateauversailles.fr).

Louis XVI gave his queen the Petit Trianon and its surrounding grounds as a refuge from the strict etiquette of the Versailles chateau. There, she added a theater (for productions starring herself), a Romantic English Garden with a grotto, and a small peasant village with a working dairy farm, known as the Queen's Hamlet. Coppola filmed Marie Antoinette organizing picnics in her estate's fields and leading friends on farm tours, but regular visitors can wander around the buildings and landscape with new, free, digital audio guides that can be downloaded directly onto an iPod in advance (podcast.chateauversailles.fr) or borrowed at the entrance.

The Petit Trianon will close sometime this winter for yearlong renovations, but the rest of the grounds will remain open on a seasonal basis. Certain ironies, however, are best seen on screen: After sipping fresh milk from an expensive porcelain dish, an extravagantly dressed friend of Marie Antoinette's exclaims, "I must do this more often--I love the country!"

Find out more about scenes from the film Marie Antoinette in our December/January issue, which features our annual list of the top movies inspiring us to travel.

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Joan Cusack

On her new TV show, Joan Cusack's Local Flavor, the two-time Oscar nominee traipses through Europe to explore the connections between food, family, and culture. Locals take her shopping at markets, show her how to prepare regional specialties, and invite her over for home-cooked meals. Along the way, Cusack stops at a vineyard in France, an olive farm in Italy, and a pastry shop in Austria. (Catch Local Flavor on the Travel Channel, Thursdays at 9 P.M.) Window or aisle? Depends on if I want to sleep or if I want to drink beverages and do some work. What was the last thing you ate from a minibar? The last thing I ate from a minibar...I think I used a disposable camera for my kids. I won't leave home without... Clothes. The best trip I've ever taken? And why? The best trip I've ever taken was to the hospital to give birth to my sons. And why? Because they make life a special place. My dream trip? To the Oscars to celebrate the movie we are currently producing about Julia Child. The movie or book that inspired me to pack my bags? Frankly, I have not had that experience. My greatest travel pet peeve? Being away from my family for work for too long. How I deal with jetlag? How do you? If I could travel with any living person...? It would be my family. I'll never go back to ___________ and why? My 20's. And why? First of all, it's impossible and second of all, youth is wasted on the young or whatever that great quote is. If I could be anywhere right now? I would be right where I am.

Trip Coach: October 17, 2006

BT Editors: Thanks for joining us. Let's get to your questions. _______________________ Everett, WA: I've wanted to go to Mardi Gras forever! The stars have aligned perfectly to allow me to go in 2007, and I figure it might be a good year, as much will been rebuilt after Katrina, and maybe not as "crazy" in the past due, also, to Katrina. I can leave on the 18th of Feb and can stay as long as the 24th. Probably 2-4 of us will go. Can you tell me how to put together a trip that will get me the best of Mardi Gras, post Katrina, at good prices, and point me in the right direction for the "must-see's" and good places to stay, best deals, etc etc? I"m sure others will be interested in ways to maximize post Katrina Mardi Gras visits, too! Thanks, Valerie BT Editors: We've compiled a handy list of New Orleans resources on affordable places to stay, classic Cajun and French restaurants, and volunteer organizations. For a taste of the post-Katrina Mardi Gras experience, read the account of a Budget Travel editor who made the trip last year. Let the good times roll! _______________________ Milwaukee, WI: My sister and I (both age 26) have the goal of visiting every continent. Next on our list is Africa. We would like to travel for about 10 days total (give or take a few days). We are most interested in the Kenya/Tanzania areas. Obviously, we would like to do this trip on a budget, but feel that "doing it on our own" would be complicated, so we have decided to go the tour route. What are some reputable companies that could provide a budget minded tour? We are interested in both animals and culture, though no certain animal in particular. Also, time of year is not of concern; we are willing to go during shoulder seasons or off season. Thank you. BT Editors: Here are some reliable and affordable tour operators that we recommend: 2Afrika; Lion World Travel; and Swain Tours. We recently ran a Real Deal for airfare, nine nights in Tanzania, safaris, and meals and . Good luck meeting your goal! _______________________ oakland, new jersey: how much more do airline tickets cost if you fly into one european city ie. zurich and fly out of another ie. rome as compared to in and out of the same city. Thank you . rjn BT Editors: As multicity routes have become more common, they've become less expensive. Depending on your destinations and dates of travel, the price difference may be negligible and can save you time and hassle. You can compare different types of fares on websites such as kayak.com. For example, we found multicity flights for New York/Zurich and Rome/New York for $517 in early November. In comparison, the lowest round-trip fare we found between New York and Rome over the same dates is actually slightly more expensive¿$531. _______________________ Charlestown, MA: My wife and I need a hotel in Rome for 4 nights, May 22-25,07. How to decide what area to stay: walking/safety are factors for us. Suggestions? Many thanks, Paul BT Editors: Our Rome Snap Guide makes a great place to start your search. It's full of affordable suggestions for hotels as well as restaurants and shops and it outlines the city's varied neighborhoods. Rome, like most big cities, is best seen on foot. If you want to stay in the heart of the centro storico (historic center), try the Albergo del Sole al Biscione or the Hotel Navona. To be near the Vatican and Sant'Angelo, opt for the Hotel Adriatic. _______________________ Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada: Hi, We are travelling to Las Vegas Nov 30 thru Dec 8. I am wanting to experience it without feeling like one of 'gauking hordes' overwhelmed by the 'largeness' of it all. To achieve this I was thinking that forearmed is pre-planned is the best approach - especially when we have enough time to actually see well beyond the gambling and neon. Suggestions? bg BT Editors: Las Vegas can definitely be overwhelming! Before you go, check out our recent article on how to maximize your time in Las Vegas. We've included a handy walking map to the Strip (you'll need Adobe Acrobat, a free--and easy--plug-in to download the map. _______________________ Annapolis, MD: I am taking my son and a friend to Hawaii in late August. I need help in finding the best island to go to, because my son and friend want to bike/hike/mountain climb and I want to RELAX on a beautiful beach. Is there a happy medium? BT Editors: Look no further than Kauai, hardly a hidden gem, but everything you'd imagine Hawaii would be: beautiful beaches, verdant coastlines, and vast expanses of land all ready to be explored by foot, boat, helicopter, you name it. Remember those beautiful scenes in Jurassic Park? That was Kauai standing in for Dinosaur Island. And the opener in King Kong when the camera cuts to a profile of Kong's face on a cliff? Kauai. Hollywood knows all about this lazy Hawaiian island and it's time you found out too. As for your happy medium, it's up on the island's north shore, smack dab on the Na Pali Coast. It's called Ke'e Beach--if you're a subscriber, you might remember it from our November cover (the one with the guy on it). The beach is perfect: crashing waves, fabulous snorkeling, trees for shade, and a seemingly endless stretch of sand that's great for long walks. Plus your son will be happy because it's where you can begin one of three invigorating hikes along the Na Pali Coast (there's a 4,8, and 22 mile route). It's called the Kalalau Trail and the four-mile version is an easy to moderate cliff-hugging hike that ends up at stunning Hanakapiai Beach. As for a place to stay, consider renting a condo. Not only is it a great way to save money, but you'll have an authentically Hawaiian experience. Try Regency Pacific Realty with great properties in Princeville and Hanalei (800/826-7782, regencypacificrealty.com). And here's a link to our November 2005 cover story on Kauai. _______________________ Los Angeles, California: I'd like to go to Washington DC. for 1 week. How could I go with air fare and Hotel, economically and safe? Kind of like a tour trip. I am 61 yrs, old. BT Editors: Try booking your airfare and lodging together for the best possible price. Site59.com specializes in discounted last-minute weekend getaways. Or, check aggregator sites, such as Cheapflights.com, SideStep.com, or kayak.com. Washington, D.C. is a relatively safe big city, and it's packed with stuff to see and do. For more, check out the travel section of the washingtonpost.com, our partner site, or its recently relaunched City Guide. _______________________ Bend, OR: We would like to go to Puerto Rico, February 2007. Is there a good area to base ourselves out of, or do we need to move around to see the island? We will only have a week and would like to see Old San Juan, El Yunque, some of the south coast and a bioluminescent bay. Should we spend a couple of nights on Vieques? We don't need 5 star lodging. We'll give up a few stars to stay oceanfront. We favor smaller, local flavor places. Thank-you, Lori BT Editors: If you've only got one week--and you're planning to do some exploring¿it's best to stay near San Juan where you're never more than a couple hours drive to almost anywhere on the island (including El Yunque Forest Reserve). Skip the high-rise hotels and opt for something more intimate, like The Gallery Inn in Old San Juan. The hotel was once an 18th century home and in addition to its hidden courtyards and abundant tropical foliage, it's got 22 uniquely decorated rooms, some with private balconies overlooking the Atlantic (thegalleryinn.com, from $145). As for Vieques, get there before the big hotels do¿next year, Starwood will open a W there and will all but ruin it's low-key laid-back vibe. For a list of stylish and unpretentious guesthouses, check out our story on the island's secret hotels. _______________________ Indian Hills CO: We are looking for a house to rent in Provence for a month in June and July - preferrably withing walking distance of a charming small town. Do you have any suggestions as to how to proceed? BT Editors: Large realty companies like Barclay International Group (800/845-6636, barclayweb.com) and Rentvillas.com (800/726-6702) are good resources because they work with huge selections of rental homes, villas, and apartments around the world. But you may want to go with a specialist that really knows the lay of the land. At Home In France rents 350 privately owned homes and apartments all over the country, including dozens in Provence (541/488-9467, athomeinfrance.com). While looking over the options, tell your broker what you want to experience, and ask lots of questions: Is electricity included in the quoted price? How about maid service? Who do you call if the roof leaks, a toilet breaks, or some other problem occurs? Request photos of the interior, exterior, and views in every direction, and ask when the shots were taken. _______________________ Smithfield, RI : I am starting to plan a trip to Montreal for June/July when the Jazz Festival is there. I tried a few hotels, but they are already booked. Any ideas for a very reasonably priced hotel or B&B that is in a safe neighborhood for two people? Where else could we travel to from Montreal for a few days? I have already been to Quebec City, so another location would be better. BT Editors: Accommodations can be scarce in Montreal during the city's Festival International de Jazz de Montréal aka Jazz Fest (June 28--July 8) and Formula One Grand Prix (June 8--10), but affordable hotels and B&Bs are still available. The first place to check is Montreal's official tourism site (tourisme-montreal.org), which has a good database of hotels, B&Bs, hostels, and motels. Other networks, like Bed&Breakfast - A Downtown Network (bbmontreal.qc.ca) and bedandbreakfast.com/montreal-quebec.html, both list dozens of B&B properties in downtown Montreal that have room during the Jazz Fest, along with photographs and rates. But expect slightly higher rates: double rooms with private baths that regularly range from C$125--C$135 start at C$145 during those 10 days of concerts. Nearby Montreal, the Laurentian Mountains, Eastern Townships, and Gaspé Peninsula all have great scenery and cute villages to recommend them. _______________________ Prospect, Kentucky: My husband and I have a trip planned for Maui, HI. We leave on Nov 2 return Nov 11, 2006. Should we cancel our trip. How are things in Hawaii right now? Thank You BT Editors: Don't cancel your trip. Though the October 15th earthquake caused power outages on islands including Oahu and Maui, most of the impact of the earthquake was felt only on the Big Island. Within two days of the earthquake, Maui and Oahu got their lights back, and flights returned to normal schedules. _______________________ BT Editors: Thanks again for all of your great questions. Next week, Rob Hodel will answer your questions on Costa Rica. See you next week! _______________________

20 Tips

1. Dress to be noticed. When you're traveling with a group, make sure one person is wearing an easily identifiable piece of clothing. My husband and I were in London with my parents, and the only way we found each other at busy intersections and tube stations was because I had on a bright-red overcoat. Jennifer Roberts, Morrisville, N.C. 2. Everyone likes toys. In the Middle East, we handed out Matchbox cars and miniature dolls not only to poor kids but also to adults for their children and grandchildren. This made a stern security guard warm up considerably. Pete Ventura, Centerville, Ohio 3. Do an advance passport check. A few weeks before international trips I double-check that my passport is where I think it is. I know several people who have spent the last hours before a trip frantically searching for their passports--one even had to cancel her honeymoon because she never found it. Marsea Nelson, Ocean View, Del. 4. The early bookworm gets the books. My husband and I love to read while on a cruise. When we take our own paperbacks, we always visit the book-exchange shelf in the ship's library on the day of embarkation and usually find some current best sellers to swap with the ones we finished on our way to the port. Margaret Leggett, Hot Springs, Ark. 5. Extra medication is a smart precaution. My boyfriend and I were in Cancún in October 2005, when Hurricane Wilma tore the place to pieces. We were put in shelters for five days (some people were stranded for two weeks). At one point, personnel from our resort realized that my boyfriend is a physician and that I'm a nurse. They asked us to go from shelter to shelter with them, to check on travelers with medical conditions. Many people had run out of their medications, learning the hard way that you should always bring additional medication, because you never know if you'll be away longer than you thought. Caroline DiGiulio, Cranston, R.I. You can find more tips in the November 2006 issue of Budget Travel magazine.