An English Gastropub Crawl

By Stephen Heuser
February 27, 2008
0804_gastropub
It used to be that you'd drive the English countryside despite the food, not because of it. Traveling from pub to pub, Stephen Heuser finds out just how deliciously the times have changed. Even bangers and mash has gone upscale.

I'm an hour northwest of London, zipping along a country road, when I'm stopped short by a hay wagon. There's no way to pass, so I watch as flecks of golden hay rain down on my car's hood. Eventually the farmer turns, I punch the gas, and the hay flies off my car in an instant. So goes the strange experience of modern England.

Map pressed against the steering wheel, I tick off the last few miles to the townlet of Bledington. It consists of a small bridge, a flock of ducks that scatters before my car, and exactly one commercial establishment, a celebrated gastropub called The Kings Head Inn.

As pubs across Britain close their doors, victims of shifting populations and chain ownership, a handful are surviving, even flourishing, by transforming into rural gastropubs, where an upscale restaurant is fused to the tradition and atmosphere of an ancient tavern. "Thirty years ago, you'd have thought that staying in a pub was a bit grotty," said my English cousin Catherine when I told her I'd be staying nowhere but pubs for a week. Now, she's jealous.

At the edge of a lush village green, the Kings Head has an almost-blank stone front and a steep slate roof tufted with moss. It looks inviting, picturesque without being twee. I poke my head in the side door. There's a cozy bar with benches hugging the wall, a dining room with chunky wooden chairs, and a fireplace big enough to shelter a family.

Behind the pub is a converted stable with guest rooms, but I'm staying in the oldest part, above the bar. A cheerful young woman walks out from behind the desk, opens a tiny door in the opposite wall, ducks up a narrow stairway, and ushers me to a door propped open with rocks.

The room bears the unmistakable signature of a 400-year-old building. The antique armoire leans one way, the bathroom sink another. The only window, a tiny dormer, looks out on the green. My double bed lies under a white partial canopy. The bathroom, I note happily, is modern, even a bit luxe. (What would the neighboring farmers make of the "stimulating sea rocket body wash"?)

Through the floorboards, a sonorous voice floats from the pub below. I soon discover that it belongs to Arthur, a white-bearded character who keeps cows and runs a cement mixer and is generally full of opinions. When I join him at the bar, he crows that he has managed to do something for the first time. "I've just sent one of those texts," he says, waving a cell phone. "To me granddaughter." At least three generations of locals are crowding in for drinks or dinner, and Arthur knows the names of every one--or at least every young woman.

It's late, so I take dinner in the bar. I order a pint of Hook Norton, a traditional ale made at a family-owned brewery a few miles away. The menu spans the globe--duck spring rolls, mint salsa--but I stick with the home team. I start with a mackerel pâté and then have a plate of deviled lamb's kidneys and a local steak. I offer Arthur one of the kidneys, which glisten pinkly when I cut into them, but he declines, preferring to describe in jubilant detail what it's like to eat a particular part of his bulls.

onsidering its popularity, I expected the Kings Head to feel almost suburban, renovated, inauthentic. It's none of those. "I've known it better," says Arthur of the pub, but I find that hard to imagine. After another pint, or maybe two, I stand up and leave the pub for a walk.

"See you here later?" I ask.

"I wouldn't bet on it," says Arthur. "But then, I wouldn't bet against it."

I booked a room for the next night in a gastropub farther north, in the upland farm country of Herefordshire, so I can't linger. I climb a tower where William Morris once lived, grab lunch at a local cheese shop, and make an impromptu U-turn into a farm stand to buy three plums for 37 pence.

North of Hereford, north of Leominster, I rocket away from civilization along the narrow, brisk A4110 road. The hills grow taller, the hedges dense. Golden stone houses give way to black-and-white Tudor farmsteads. I arrive at the bridge that marks the tiny town of Aymestrey.

The Riverside Inn is a long half-timber building that wouldn't be out of place in a movie about Elizabeth I. The nearest neighbors are a handful of sheep across the River Lugg. For hundreds of years, the Riverside was known as the Crown, until it fell into disrepute. In the 1990s, it was bought and reinvented; those owners then sold it to a former engineering executive and his wife, who runs the kitchen.

I'm staying in the Hayloft, the upper floor of a converted stable. My key opens the broad wooden door to a huge, eclectic aerie--burgundy slipcovers, a rustic wood-framed mirror, a coffee table with smoked glass.

As evening falls, the parking lot starts to fill up. Couples and families from the surrounding towns converge on the Riverside for dinner. They pack a room whose walls and heavy ceiling beams are garlanded with dry hops and hung with enough rustic objects to supply an antique fair. When I sit down for dinner, my head grazes a bugle.

The farm country of Herefordshire is quietly emerging as one of the best places in Britain to eat, and my dinner is like a map of the neighborhood: pork medallions from a pig raised nearby, gravlax made with trout from the nearby river, vegetables plucked a few yards away.

At night, I pull on a sweater and sit on the grassy terrace behind the stable. The sky is remarkably clear. The Milky Way stretches overhead; I see one shooting star, then another. At moments like this, it's hard to imagine that anything of much importance has changed in the past 400 years.

The Riverside felt remote, but it turns out I've only scratched the surface of remoteness. I've left Herefordshire, crossed the massive Severn River, and twisted my way into the highlands of West Somerset. Sue Hinds, at the time one of the owners of The Royal Oak Inn of Luxborough, has insisted I call so I don't get lost, but my cell phone keeps dropping its signal. "After you pass a pub called the Valiant Soldier, turn right," she says when we finally connect. "Keep going, even if it seems like you're lost, and eventually you'll come to about five cottages and a stone bridge. That's us."

This is pheasant-shooting country, and hunting prints line the Royal Oak's walls. One room displays a series of huge mounted river fish, some caught in the 1930s. Most of the 11 guest rooms are along a rambling upstairs corridor and identified by a teddy-bear theme. (My bear is from Harrods.)

There aren't many guests, but at dinner, tables miraculously fill up. The food is rich. A rump of lamb comes with some of the fat left on to give it a startling crackle and moisture. On the side is a bowl of red cabbage, zucchini, carrots, and buttery new potatoes. I order grilled Cornish sardines--a staple of the region, I've been told--with chorizo. The fish defeat even my practiced attempts at deboning.

After dinner, Sue pulls pints at the bar, then joins a table of locals. When I go upstairs, well past the nominal closing hour of 11 p.m., they're still there.

The next morning, Sue explains that the pub makes money on out-of-town guests, on dinners, and on the big lunches it throws for the men who work the pheasant shoots. But at heart, it's still an unofficial living room for the village. On Thursday nights, there are free snacks for neighbors; on Christmas, the owners shut the place to outsiders and throw a party. "Everyone mucks in together," she says. "It's very gregarious."

I can't shake the impression that this whole world, including the ghostly old woman who supposedly haunts Room 4, might just disappear once I drive off. Sue knows what I mean. "It's like Brigadoon," she says.

Well to the east, out of the valleys and into mellow pastureland, is Corton Denham, a sweet village with a square-towered church nestled against a bright green ridge. I feel as if I've walked into a painting by a completely different artist. You wouldn't call Corton Denham the suburbs, but it's only two hours from London, and compared to ­rustic Luxborough, it's almost trendy.

The Queens Arms is a yellow stone building from the 18th century, but the interior is painted in stylish sage and white. Upstairs, in my room, I punch the light switch, and the room illuminates very slowly. The room is country, with pine beds and gingham curtains, but the shower is a modern glass box raining fantastic quantities of water. The college-age pub worker who gives me my key doesn't just apologize that there's no TV in my room--he offers to wheel in a flat-screen.

The staff wear sneakers and talk like foodies. In the dining room, appetizers arrive on smart wooden planks, and for the first time on my trip, when I look at my fellow diners, I see people wearing black. You can't imagine teddy bears in the rooms, or a bugle on the wall, but the inn displays the same mania for local produce as other gastropubs. In fact, the Queens Arms owns its pigs, and one was butchered the previous week. "We're still eating him now," my waiter says. "He's delicious."

No kidding. The humble-sounding potted pork might be the best thing I eat on the trip: Like rillettes, it's shredded meat preserved in its own fat with bits of spice and served with grilled brioche and an apple compote. Instead of beer, I have a glass of chenin blanc from South Africa.

The Queens Arms has been owned for four years by Victoria and Rupert Reeves. Victoria says that the only way to keep a pub alive is to transform it. "The days of the quiet-drinking country pub are over," she says. "The people who live round here now aren't the pint-pounding types."

Still, the pub itself pays serious tribute to beer: A memorial to recently deceased beer expert Michael Jackson hangs on a wall. And after dinner, I sit by the fireplace and have a strong, cask-conditioned ale from nearby Yeovil. One of the great benefits of staying at a pub is that you don't have to drive home.

If the Queens Arms is the offspring of modernity and tradition, The Swan Inn is more like a polished outpost of London. It's in the Surrey town of Chiddingfold, about 10 minutes' drive from a commuter rail station. The village's buildings are clad in elaborately patterned red shingles, and up the road stands the Crown, a pub so old it sheltered King Edward VI in 1552 while his 4,000 men camped on the town green.

The Swan, a renovated 19th-century inn, is a snapshot of where Britain is today: run by a British couple, Daniel and Hannah Hall, but staffed--like all of London--by a mix of Brits and Eastern Europeans, and unapologetically stylish. My room has putty-colored headboards, gauzy Roman window shades, and a bathroom floor of porcelain tiles. Clearly the place is playing to a more upscale crowd: Its two pub rooms are sleek and austere, and through a door I glimpse a dressier dining room.

I'm meeting my friend Peter for dinner, so I order a bottle of Châteauneuf du Pape from the Swan's fancy wine list. We start with a soft pickled mackerel topped with julienned turnips and an airy salmon cake. Then I go for the most homey dish of my trip--bangers and mash, the classic pub dinner of sausage and mashed potatoes, which comes with competing mustards, a bright yellow English one and a grainy brown French.

The Swan is clearly beautifully done, and has Wi-Fi and air-conditioning in all the rooms. If you want a romantic getaway and things to be arranged just right, this is the place. And it's highly accommodating: Peter and I stay up talking into the night, and the Latvian night porter pours us beer until well after 3 a.m. But I'm glad to know that Brigadoon is still out there.

  • The Kings Head Inn Bledington, Oxfordshire, 011-44/1608-658365, kingsheadinn.net, from $139, entrées from $20
  • The Riverside Inn Aymestrey, Herefordshire, 011-44/1568-708440, theriversideinn.org, from $139, entrées from $20
  • The Royal Oak Inn of Luxborough Luxborough, Somerset, 011-44/1984-640319, theroyaloakinnluxborough.co.uk, from $149, entrées from $24
  • The Queens Arms Corton Denham, Somerset, 011-44/1963-220317, thequeensarms.com, from $178, entrées from $18
  • The Swan Inn Chiddingfold, Surrey, 011-44/1428-682073, theswaninn.biz, from $149, entrées from $20

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Trip Coach: February 26, 2008

Maria Burwell: Ah, New York! What can compare to its electric energy, iconic landmarks, and cinematic streets? Just try to stop yourself from humming Frank Sinatra while walking through midtown on your first visit! But keeping up with the ever-changing hot new restaurants and hip museum openings is challenging, even for locals. Thankfully, New Yorkers are spoiled for choice, which means if you're pointed in the right direction, you can expect the best of everything: the best steakhouses, the best musicals, the best boutique shopping. As editor of Fodor's New York City 2009, I'm here to help. Let's get to the good stuff... _______________________ Birmingham, Ala.: My husband and I are taking our 14-year-old daughter for a 3-night visit (her first) to NYC. We'll arrive at LaGuardia at 10 am. Our hotel (70 Park Ave) will store our bags till check-in, so where do you suggest we have brunch or lunch? What do you recommend that we'll have time to do before a 7 p.m. show on March 18? Should we start with a major tourist attraction or a museum? We'll have two full days and evenings to cram in as much as we can of sightseeing, museums, shopping, and good food. That leaves most of Good Friday for last-chance visits before our 10 p.m. departure. Please share your ideas on how to give our young teen a taste of New York without breaking the budget. Maria Burwell: New York is terrific family fun, and at fourteen, your daughter can really appreciate all the pop culture and glitz New York offers. Your hotel is in the East 30's, so a good spot to hit for a simple, filling lunch could be the Turkish Kitchen: puffy, fresh breads, tangy hummus, and piles of grilled lamb. If it happens to be warm (a rare occasion in March) head to the Shake Shack in the middle of Madison Square Park. There you'll find some of the best burgers, fries, and heavenly thick milkshakes in NYC, all served outside. After lunch, you can run up to Rockefeller Center (in the 40's) and check out the home of the Today Show and 30 Rock. If your daughter is a budding fashionista, keep running uptown on 5th Avenue to window shop all the top designer stores: Saks, Henri Bendel (featured in a Gossip Girl episode), Prada, Bergdorf, Louis Vuitton, and Tiffany's. You'll also see Trump Tower and the Plaza Hotel if you walk to 58th. Cut over on 57th to cruise past Chanel, Burberry, hit Barney's (on Madison), walk over to Bloomingdales (on Lexington), and finish at Dylan's Candy Bar on Third Avenue (run by the daughter of Ralph Lauren) where you can cop a huge sugar buzz just inhaling the chocolate-laced air and fortify yourself for a night of Broadway. All of this is free, aside from any Candyland splurge your treat yourself to at the end. If she's not a fashion plate—and you'd rather do less walking—take her downtown after lunch to the Lower East Side. Visit the Lower East Side Tenement Museum that documents the daily life of NYC's early immigrant families, and then swing by Il Laboratorio del Gelato AKA "The Gelato Laboratory" to grab a scoop of some of the richest, most buttery gelato before settling in for Broadway. _______________________ Lancaster, Pa.: Hi, this is Dave from Lancaster, PA. My fiance and I are sushi fanatics, and we were wondering where are some of the best spots for sushi in New York City. Maria Burwell: Sushi-lovers, rejoice! New York is a bona fide sushi capital. Top sushi isn't a budget pursuit, but rest assured you won't be disappointed. Kuruma Zushi is crazy expensive, but they're known for thoughtfully prepared sushi and sashimi. For something more affordable, try Sushi of Gari that ranges from the usual rolls to Japanese Yellowtail. Sushi Yasuda also gets top marks for a beautiful selection with fish delivered daily from Japan. Can't beat that authenticity! _______________________ Seattle, Wash.: Where is the best place to have Easter Brunch in New York for two single gals in their 30's? (That we can still get a reservation for! Seems most places have already booked up.) Thanks! Erika Maria Burwell: Erika, New York makes a great girls getaway! (There's a reason Sex and the City was filmed here¿) It sounds like you've got a fun trip planned. As for Easter brunch, if you're looking for something traditional, Sarabeth's is a popular choice as is Five Points (unfortunately, this was booked up for Easter). Truthfully, I think you should hit a place that doesn't take reservations, like Blue Ribbon Bakery (35 Downing Street) and go on the early side. New Yorkers love their lazy Sundays, and most brunch locations don't get slammed until noon. Camp out at eleven, and I'm betting you'll get a table first thing. Another idea: do a soul food brunch in Harlem. It's certainly a classic NYC experience. Amy Ruth's and Miss Mamie's Spoonbread Too have great stick-to-your-ribs brunch. (Again, reservations not accepted so get there early and you'll be set.) _______________________ Cleveland, Ohio: We're planning a 3 day family trip to NYC in March. Besides the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Bldg., and the Natural History Museum, what are some additional sightseeing ideas for the kids (age 8 & 6)? Matt Maria Burwell: Matt, consider the Big Apple your kids' oversized playground. There's enough family fun to keep kids in this age group busy for three months. On top of what you've mentioned I'd recommend: —Rockefeller Center. Aside from seeing the facade of the Radio City Music Hall, you can tour the NBC studios, skate in the ice rink, indulge in the stores (hello, Maison du Chocolat!), and go to the Top of the Rock (Rockefeller's observation deck ). It's a great vantage point to view the NYC skyline and get a bird's-eye view of the Empire State Building, the Chrysler, etcetera. —The New York Fire Museum. Sadly, you can't climb around on a fire truck, but your kids can get up close with all the sliding poles and candy-apple red trucks that make fire-fighting such a fascinating occupation. —The Sony Wonder Lab. A free interactive tour through cutting-edge technology featuring twinkling fiber optic lights, audio recordings, and screenings of popular movies. —The Lower East Side Tenement Museum. This is a great doable museum for kids. The tenements capture what life was like for early immigrant families in New York, and the family programs illustrate the very real conditions kids lived and worked under. If you're willing to go into the outer boroughs, there are even more great attractions: —The Museum of the Moving Image (in Queens). Take your kids here to play with sound editing equipment, make their own stop animation movie, or play with their video games. Hands-on fun in the best way. —The Bronx Zoo. Lions and tigers and bears, oh my! If your kids like animals, they'll be really happy here. _______________________ Norristown, Pa.: I'm coming to New York for a 2pm show at the August Wilson theatre. How can I get there from Penn Station? How long will it take? Can I walk the distance? Maria Burwell: You could walk it, but it would be a loooong walk. (About 20 blocks.) I'd suggest taking the subway. Take the 1 train uptown from 34th Street Penn Station, get off at 50th Street, and you'll be a block away! (If you need more subway directions, check out hopstop.com.) _______________________ Melbourne, Fla.: My 8-year-old daughter and I will be making our first trip to New York in late July. We read about The Cloisters in one of her Magic Treehouse books and now we HAVE to see the unicorn tapestries! Can you recommend something else to see or do, or somewhere to eat while we're up in that area? Also, in addition to From the Mixed-Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler, is there other fiction we can read to get her excited about NYC? Thanks! Maria Burwell: What a great question! Take a look at the suggestions I made above for Matt for other activities. As for the Cloisters themselves, I highly recommend you take a picnic up there and enjoy it on the grounds. It should be beautiful weather in late July. Swing by the Time Warner Center before you continue north and pick up snacks from either the Bouchon Bakery (terrific French macaroons!) or the local Whole Foods. Or, for an authentic NYC experience, grab some bagels at H&H on the Westside. If you wanted to try to group a few more activities into the day, I'd say you could jump off at the Columbia campus area to explore that or even poke around Harlem on your way back. As for New York based children's books, I recommend the first Kiki Strike book. It's entirely based in New York and has an imaginative plot about a group of renegade girl scouts that discover an underground city below Chinatown. It'll certainly make her want to play urban explorer! _______________________ Brookfield, Mo.: We're a couple in our mid-50's. We'll be leaving Kansas City for New York on 6/2/08 & returning on 6/7/08. We're both afficianados of anything historical or literary & love just seeing the architecture of a new place. I was in NYC for a few days in 1987 & adored the energy & diversity. My husband has never been there, so he wants to see the famous sites—The Statue & Ellis Island, the Empire State & Flatiron buildings, etc. We'd also like to see a Broadway show. We're staying across the Hudson in Weehawken, near the ferry; so we'll have to go into the city each morning & stay for the day. Any tips for other, lesser-known things to do? Our ideas of a vacation is to start early & go nonstop, and come home exhausted, so we need plenty of ideas! Thanks so very much, Denise Maria Burwell: Hi, Denise! I always love hearing about visitors that want to discover the history and architecture of New York City. First let me encourage you to follow in the footsteps of New York's literati. Go visit the peaceful square around Gramercy Park. The garden is enclosed, but in June you'll be able to admire the lush green oasis that is rimmed with buildings dating to the 1800's. Nos., 3 and 4 belonged to the founder of Harper Publishing House. No. 38 was the home of John Steinbeck, and you can tour No. 15, the National Arts Club. Keep strolling downtown on Broadway and you'll pass The Strand, a New York institution for used books that is a beacon drawing booklovers from near and far. You could spend half a day poking through the stacks. If you continue south, you'll hit Washington Mews, a rare cobble-stoned street that looks like it was leftover from Henry James's era. You'll also hit Washington Square Park, a great mix of classic architecture and vibrant modern street life. I also suggest you leave Manhattan altogether. Follow writers like Truman Capote and Norman Mailer and flee Manhattan for Brooklyn Heights. (Take the 2, 3 train to Clark St. or the A, C to High St.) Here you can walk along the Brooklyn Heights Promenade with postcard-perfect views of lower Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty. You can also stroll among the houses that are so stunning, they were declared New York's first historic district. Definitely worth discovering! _______________________ New York City, N.Y.: Where is the best place to shop for womens apparel at great bargain prices? Also, where's an affordable place to hotel to stay for 1 to 2 nights? Thanks Maria Burwell: Century 21 in lower Manhattan has a cult following for delivering dozens of designer goods at marked down prices. You'll have to do some digging to find the keepers, but it's a saving grace for New Yorkers whose taste for the good life reaches beyond their paycheck. Another spot to hunt for discounted Prada is Find Outlet in NoLita. Also check online for sample sales. Barney's New York has a sample sale that makes shopping a competitive sport. As for affordable accommodations, New York has a shortage. Good budget options include the Pod Hotel and the Larchmont Hotel. If you don't mind sacrificing color-coordinated decor, La Quinta Inn has some of the most affordable rates in Manhattan (below $200). _______________________ Huntington Woods, Mich.: Hi Maria- I (50 yr old mom) am taking my 15 year old (musical theater loving) daughter to NY May 23-25 because she "has" to see Spring Awakening. She has been to NY once before to see Wicked and some of the major sites (Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, Tenement Museum, Chinatown, Times Sq.,NBC-Today Show crowd). That time we stayed at the Marriott across from Ground Zero- not a fabulous location but it was ok. I'd like a better location this time. I am fine with small or quirky places- trying to stay under $300/night. Also looking for things that would be special fun for musical theater kind of teenager. We have the show tickets (Friday night) but haven't booked our tickets yet. Ideas for hotel, fun, food? Thanks in advance Maria Burwell: Sounds like you have a future Broadway diva on your hands! First, let's talk lodging. Under $300 a night, you could stay at the Pod Hotel. The rooms are teeny-tiny, but ultra hip and with cool extras, like iPod docks, that your fifteen-year-old might appreciate! Another idea is to stay at Hotel 41, again, the rooms are small, but you'll have DVD players and Aveda bath products. Both of these are more or less in Midtown, closer to all the attractions there. Your best bet might be to stay at the Casablanca Hotel. It's right next to Time Square and even comes with a complimentary breakfast. Aside from the tour I recommended above for a fourteen-year-old fashionista, you could take your theater-loving teen to the Ziegfeld movie theater. This place really ups the bling ratio, and you'll feel like wearing opera-length gloves to the concession stand. (No worries, jeans are just fine here.) You can also take her outside of Broadway for a bit of Off- and Off-Off-Broadway productions. In Brooklyn, BAM (Brooklyn Academy of Music) has brilliant theater with actors like the great Cate Blanchett and chorographers like Mark Morris. Or you can check out Fuerzabruta at the Daryl Roth Theater. If you go to the Daryl Roth Theater, eat at some of the hip places around Union Square. The Stand on 12th Street offers up some mean burgers with artisanal milkshakes, and Republic (on Union Square's Westside) has budget Asian noodles and fried wontons. _______________________ Houston, Tex.: I understand there is a way to get tickets to go directly to the front of the line of the Empire State Building without waiting in line. How do you do that? Thank you! Maria Burwell: Well, buying tickets online (at esbnyc.com) will allow you to skip the first long line for purchasing tickets. Just be aware that tickets are non-refundable, which means if it's a rainy or hazy day, you just have to live with it! _______________________ Silver Spring, Md. : I am planning on visiting NYC for a day trip to get some bargain womens winter clothes. Where do you suggest I go to find these clothes at great clearance prices? Thanks Maria Burwell: If you're looking for budget designer clothes, see my post on Century 21. You could also try Loehmann's and Daffy's. _______________________ Ellenwood, Ga.: Need a hotel room two nights, 2 days, March 15, 16, Times square area. Whats going on that weekend? Maria Burwell: Want a budget hotel? Check out the Casablanca mentioned in my post above. If you can afford to splash out a bit on luxurious accommodations, the W Hotel in Time Square lays it on cashmere-thick with sleek, space-age rooms and a glamorous sushi bar. If you're staying until the following Monday, you'll be able to catch the famous St. Patrick's Day Parade. The weekend before is full of all sorts of related revelry, including several pub crawls, like the one that takes place in the Seaport area. But you can also hop into several Irish pubs around town to enjoy the celebration informally. _______________________ New London, Conn.: I am traveling to New York City with 4 girl scouts who are in their freshman year of high school. We are planning on going from 6/7-6/8 this summer. This is the girls last year in scouts and they want this to be a great trip. We are planning on going to a show and staying overnight. I am looking for suggestions for somewhat affordable suite type lodging for 6, a good dinner spot for teenage girls and another activity that they may enjoy. Also, if you have any suggestions on discounted show tickets that would be great. Maria Burwell: Take a look at the itineraries I've described above for 14 and 15 year old girls. As for accommodations, you could take a look at the suites for the Millennium UN Plaza Hotel New York. They're inexpensive compared to most Manhattan rates, but it is over on the Eastside. Still, you'll be in Midtown (somewhat close to Grand Central Station). You could also look at the Gershwin Hotel. Definitely inexpensive. It could use renovations, but the cheerful riot of colors each wall is painted and the funky Andy Warhol-esque vibe it gives makes up for it. As for discounted shows, if you're willing to be flexible, you can go to the TKTS booth at the Marriot Marques Hotel (W 46th Street in Time Square). Here you can buy tickets for performances that same day at 25% to 50% off. You have to choose from available titles, but they usually have a wide selection. A quick glance on the Web site www.tdf.org shows the tickets that were available last week, including the Tony Award-winner Spring Awakening, which would be my first choice! _______________________ Milwaukee, Wis.: We are traveling to NYC for All-Star week, July 12-16, 2008. I have been researching hotels, and have made multiple reservations with establishments of various price points and locations. The one dilemna we are facing is whether to stay in Times Square (and face the noise issue at night), or venture up toward Central Park area. Most hotels "clubs" have suspended or artificially their points rewards for that week ( IE Marriot raised the rewards bar for a free night from 30,000 to 70,000points for the Courtyard establishment). As well, virtually all hotels have a per person limit of three in a room, except for the Double Tree Guest Suites in Times Square. What is your opinion on Times Square versus the 53rd Street area? Also, we are seeking wonderful restaurants in this same vicinity (48th-57th Streets, Lexington, Park, Broadway) that give a range of menu choices without busting the budget. Maria Burwell: Sounds like you've done your homework! Like most New Yorkers, unless I have out of town visitors, I tend to avoid Time Square. It's bright, loud, and always full of people—which is exactly why it's so fascinating. There's no other place in NYC that says "Big City" quite so clearly. But personally, when I'm ready to crash after a long day, I want a place that's a refuge from all the hustle and bustle! I'd choose the 53rd Street area. It's also closer to the park, which on nice days in July will make for ideal picnic excursions. As for food, there are plenty of places to eat around there that won't stretch your plastic: Try Mint on 50th for delicious, fresh Indian food. P.J. Clarke's on 55th, in an old school New York establishment, serves up burgers, fried oysters, and comforting shepherd's pie. Go over to the Westside at 44th Street to Hallo Berlin for wildly cheap German bratwurst, beet, and fried potatoes that will top you off for another round of walking. _______________________ Williamston, N.C.: I am taking my daughters to New York on March 14-16. We have tickets for The Little Mermaid and Wicked. My girls are 20 and 27. I am looking for a great place for lunch in Soho area on Friday and somewhere special for lunch on Sat. Thank you for your help. Maria Burwell: Venture a little east of SoHo and stroll into the hip streets of NoLita. Unlike the chain stores in SoHo that you'll see back home (J. Crew, M.A.C., etc.) the boutiques in NoLita are one of a kind. Places like Me + Ro for Asian inspired earrings or Resurrection for vintage Pucci prints, will be entirely new to your daughters. Here, on the corner of Elizabeth and Prince St., you can get a terrific lunch at Cafe Habana, serving up Cuban Sandwiches that are, as they say in Spanish, "la muerte" without spending much moolah. You'll also get a peek at the locals in this youthful Never-never-land of a neighborhood. Chances are you'll be sitting next to a model, actor, or model/actor. If you want to treat your girls to a fancy brunch with all the French fixings, take them to Balthazar (also near SoHo on Spring St.). If you keep it simple and stick to sour cream hazelnut waffles (and resist the other more pricy options), you can actually eat here without raiding your savings. _______________________ Columbus, Ohio: I am planning on being in NYC the weekend the Pope will be in town (have had my theater tickets long before I knew was was going to be there.). Any advice on how I can get a nice hotel room in the Times Square area without paying a fortune? I am finding that that weekend is higher priced than normal. Thanks. Maria Burwell: Try the Casablanca Hotel. But as I've mentioned, Time Square doesn't have to be your only option. I'd also look at the Pod hotel. _______________________ Allentown, Pa.: I'm looking for a kid-friendly restaurant for pre-theater Saturday dinner. Thanks Maria Burwell: For this, I'd say hit Carmine's on W 44th Street. Not only is it in the Time Square area and family-friendly, it's also flat-out delicious. Huge portions of linguine with clam sauce or rigatoni will keep you full long after intermission! _______________________ Brookfield, Conn.: Is parking readily available at the Red Hook cruise terminal and is there a fee? Maria Burwell: Yes, there's parking, and yes, there's a fee. It's $6 for short term parking and $20 for 24 hours. _______________________ Rochester, Ind.: My husband is taking me to Manhattan for Mother's Day and we are having difficulty finding reasonably priced rooms that are safe, comfortable, clean and if not in the midtown or Times Square area, a place close to public transportation. I am aghast at the prices of hotels; my last trip to NYC was less than a year ago and before that we have visited often: once or twice a year most years for the last 45 years. Can you help? We are in our early 70s but don't act like it; we enjoy travel adventures and are comfortable practically everywhere in the world on our own alone. Flying in Thurs. May 8th and out Mon. May 12th. Maria Burwell: That's a lovely Mother's Day gift! Well, it's hard to find a hotel for under $300 in New York, as I'm sure you know. But as I mentioned previously, establishments that are less expensive include Hotel 41, Hotel Metro, the Pod Hotel, or Casablanca Hotel. If you're willing to do some walking, consider the Millennium UN Plaza Hotel New York. They're all the way over on the Eastside, but definitely comfortable, safe, and inexpensive. Often the earlier you book, the less expensive the room. (May is a popular month, so book early!) _______________________ Alexandria, Va.: Can you recommend some good places for "fun" when on a short business trip that only leaves a small window in evening hours for dinner/drinks/entertainment? My colleagues and I are staying near Central Park in late March. Maria Burwell: Why not do a little sightseeing while sipping cocktails? At the legendary Rainbow Room, you'll get a stunning view from the 65th floor of Rockefeller Center. Or the Pen-Top Bar & Terrace on the 23rd floor of the Peninsula Hotel is another top tier bar. If that sounds a little too buttoned up, consider some rock n' roll karaoke at Arlene's Grocery, a jazz show at the Blue Note, or just a laid back late night cup of Chai at the indie-tastic cafe Teany on the Lower East Side. _______________________ San Antonio, Texas: My husband and I are taking our almost 16 year old daughter to New York City for 5 days and 4 nights in late July. What type of activities would you recommend? None of us has been to the city for pleasure--I have been once for a very short business trip. We are very comfortable travelers and enjoy a variety of activities! Thank you, Melissa Maria Burwell: Hi, Melissa! Aside from what I've already recommended for teenage girls, I'd also hit the MoMA (the Museum of Modern Art). Too often families focus on the Met, but the MoMA has a contemporary cool that teenagers can relate to (not to mention a really fun gift shop). If you want a museum that's a bit more bite-sized, try the Neue Galerie. The building alone here is a delight with its "grand old New York" palatial foyer. And on the ground floor, Cafe Sabarsky serves rich dark Viennese coffee and authentic Sacher torte in an environment straight out of a European film. (One caveat: the artists on display here—Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele, to name two—have some racy subject matter. If that makes you uncomfortable, stick with a day at the Tenement Museum.) Another idea: take your daughter around the East Village. Walk down St. Marks Place (for the obligatory tour of booth-after-booth of neon sunglasses, sarcastic T-shirts, and studded jewelry), poke around in St. Marks Bookshop (art books galore), and walk down 7th Street to Caracas Arepa Bar for cheap pockets of golden fried cornmeal with cheese, beans, and shredded beef. Heaven! _______________________ New York, N.Y.: Hi Maria: My English boyfriend is coming over to NYC for Easter, and I want to arrange an Easter Brunch for us and several friends. I'd like to give him an "NYC experience," (he has a fascination with Central Park, which we have yet to "do.") but I also refuse to subject my die-hard NYC friends to anything too, too touristy. So 'Tavern on the Green' is out! Is there a middle ground you could recommend? Thanks, Alycia from the West Village Maria Burwell: I hear you! Consider doing the soul food brunch I recommended above. It's an authentic NYC experience without being cheesy. Or you can leave Manhattan entirely and head for Brooklyn. Dine at Applewood, the farmer-centric foodie haven, and then explore the tourist free neighborhood of Park Slope and stroll around Prospect Park. (If your boyfriend has a fascination with Central Park, let him know that the same architect did Prospect Park—and considered it his crowning achievement!) _______________________ Tampa, Fla.: We have only one day May 21 to see the installations of Chinese Artist Guo-Qiang at the Guggenheim in NY. We need a place to stay the night of the 21 and 22 nearby. Can you recommend a B&B or inexpensive hotel within walking distance? Maria Burwell: Oh, his work is incredible—certainly worth the trip to NYC! Well the decor is a little funky, and the rooms can be a touch small, but I think the Franklin will meet your needs. It's on 87th and Lex. (the Guggenheim is on 88th and 5th Avenue) so you really could just roll out of bed and stroll over and, most importantly, it doesn't have stratospheric prices! _______________________ Lebanon, Ind.: My adult son and I are registered as contestants in the American Crossword Puzzle Tournament to be held at the Brooklyn Bridge Marriott, February 29-March 2, 2008. We will fly into LaGuardia on the evening of February 28. Neither of us has been to NYC before. Since the tournament activities do not begin until the evening of Feb 29, we will have most of that day free. Your suggestions, please. Specifically, would the Gray Lines "New York Minute" tour be a good choice? Joe Maria Burwell: Hi, Joe! The Brooklyn Bridge Marriott is near the terrific neighborhood of DUMBO (Down Under the Brooklyn Bridge). Stroll down to the waterfront and you can admire the beautiful view of the New York skyline with the boats passing by. On a clear day, it's stunning. Grab ice cream at the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory right on the pier, its high-quality, thick-n-creamy scoops lure many a sweet-lover over the East River. Or you can walk down Water Street to Jacques Torres Chocolate for a real Willie Wonka moment. You're also steps away from what is (debatably) the best NYC pizza—Grimaldi's Pizzeria (on Old Fulton St.). As for the Gray Line tour, if you haven't been to NYC before, this is a good way to get your bearings. They cover the basic "lay of the land" and will help you and your son get familiar with the different neighborhoods and what each of them have to offer. I would just caution that much of this is simply driving through the neighborhoods, and in winter, there won't be much street life. It's cold out there! _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: I hear a lot about Brooklyn being a good place to visit. Any idea where I could get a good burger while I'm out there? Maria Burwell: I've got to love a question that is not only about Brooklyn but about burgers! Several people swear DuMont, in Williamsburg, serves up the top borough burger. They now have a new location, DuMont Burger, just focused on this popular dish and its sides. _______________________ Richmond, Va.: I'm bringing my ballet-loving 13-year old niece to NYC this spring, and I'm not sure what to buy tickets for. Which do you think is better, NYC Ballet or ABT? And is the Joyce worthwhile? Anything else you'd recommend for her? Maria Burwell: New York is also the capital of dance, among other performing arts, and ballet is no exception. The New York City Ballet (AKA NYCB) has a home at Lincoln Center and holds its season through the winter and spring. In summer, they move away and the touring American Ballet Theatre (AKA ABT) comes to Lincoln Center, so we're never without world-class dance. (They also do a fall season at City Center). Basically, if you're here in the early spring, you'll be able to catch NYCB, and if you're here in the late spring, you can catch ABT. Also, for those of you that like to get Nutcracker tickets (only for NYCB), grab them *early* in the summer and enjoy this classic story ballet! _______________________ Maria Burwell: And that's about all the time we have to chat! Thank you for all your questions! I'm sorry I couldn't answer them all. I hope you all enjoy kicking your heels up in New York, New York! Be sure to check out the Fodor's New York City 2008 guide, a great resource for your trip, and keep an eye out for the new 2009 guide, hitting the shelves in August!

My Marrakech Is Better Than Yours

I'm an American, but for my whole life I've been a nomad. It started in Cairo, where I was born. (My dad, a New Yorker, was on assignment in Egypt.) My travels have continued through more than 70 countries--Cambodia to Colombia, Iran to Italy, Namibia to Nepal--and my work as a specialist in human rights and democracy means the list keeps growing. Every place I've visited has been compelling in its own way, but I never found a city that made me want to settle down until I came to Marrakech. Its appeal comes from so much more than the snake charmers, the fortune-tellers, and the souks--though they help, too. The hospitable people, the delicious food, the mysterious architecture, and the fascinating Moroccan culture all add up to make Marrakech a city like no other. Borrowing the words of little Goldilocks, Marrakech felt "just right" somehow. So two years ago, my husband (an American architect), our two children, and I traded in our nomadic existence for a nine-acre olive grove on the outskirts of Marrakech. We then set out to open The Peacock Nest, an online shop selling beautiful Moroccan things, and to design and build a stylish, ecofriendly boutique hotel called Peacock Pavilions (peacockpavilions.com); both are named after the peacocks that roam the property. If all goes to plan, the 10-room hotel will be ready by July. Somewhere along the way, I decided to start writing a blog, My Marrakesh (mymarrakesh.com), a great big love letter to my new home. I enjoy sharing my passion for Marrakech with anyone who will pay attention. And they do: I'm not exactly sure why, but thousands of people read My Marrakesh every day. Either my mother is paying them all--she always wanted me to be popular in high school--or people are genuinely interested in the enchanting city that I'm lucky enough to call home. Wait, is it Marrakech or Marrakesh? BT's style is to follow Webster's Geographical Dictionary for place-names, so we spell it Marrakech. Montague, however, calls her blog My Marrakesh because that spelling is closer to the way the city's name is pronounced. Eat Morocco is famous for its food, and no wonder. It's mouthwatering and eclectic, and there's something for everyone. The best-known dish is the tagine, a filling stew slow cooked in an earthenware pot with a conical lid. In addition to chicken, beef, lamb, fish, or vegetables, tagines often include stewed fruit, olives, onions, or almonds. Many restaurants also serve couscous, particularly as a traditional family lunch on Fridays. The seven-veggie couscous royale, topped with a raisin/onion concoction, is not to be missed. Brochettes (skewers of meat or chicken) are always a safe bet and are especially popular with the junior set. Harira, a soup made with tomatoes and chickpeas and served with bread and dates, is a warming and often vegetarian alternative. If the food strikes you as a touch blah--you chili fiend!--request harissa, a hot sauce that'll send your taste buds into overdrive. There's a wide variety of places to nibble and dine in Marrakech, from street stalls to opulent restaurants out of The Arabian Nights. And café culture is omnipresent--thanks, no doubt, to the country's history as a French colony. I provide a range of food choices below, from the super cheap to the save-up-your-pennies splurge. Also included are some non-Moroccan options for those who want to mix it up a little. Marrakech's bountiful tangerine and orange trees make for fresh juice everywhere. Yay! By day, head to the orange-juice stalls on the Jemaa el-Fna, the city's famous central square. There are dozens of juice stalls, all of which are numbered. I haven't ever really noticed a difference between the juice at No. 1 and the juice at No. 23. So pick the stand with your lucky number and make a beeline. A smile usually gets you a free half refill. By night, the juice stalls are wheeled away and dozens of open-air kitchens are set up in tidy rows, with communal bench seating. I'm partial to the stall where a chef with a handlebar moustache makes harira. Be sure to check out the stands that specialize in exotica like sheep's head or snails (you slurp them from a cup). Sadly, no beer is on offer at any of the stalls. On the sidelines of the Jemaa el-Fna is Ice Legend, an ice cream shop. It's particularly enticing for the little ones in the group, but adults too will appreciate a scoop of one of the 50 homemade flavors. Café des Épices, in the medina's spice market, is a charming and aromatic spot for breakfast or a glass of hot mint tea. Further down the medina's serpentine alleys is La Terrasse des Épices in Souk Cherifia. (It's owned by the same guy who owns Café des Épices.) Salads start at just $6.50, and you can bask in the sun on the huge terrace. There are four upscale restaurants in the Old City that I happily recommend. The stylish Kosybar, on the place des Ferblantiers, has a mix of Moroccan and continental offerings, as well as inventive cocktails. By day, you can watch huge storks in their nests from the upstairs terrace. Swanky Le Tanjia, a restaurant with rose-filled fountains, is nearby. The Sunday brunch is excellent, as is the tender monkfish available at lunch or dinner. Another chic spot in the Mouassine district is Café Arabe. This Italian-owned riad (courtyard home) boasts not only a restaurant serving homemade pastas from $9, but also a hip rooftop bar. And in the Kasbah area is Tatchibana, where you can break out of the norm with sushi and other Japanese delicacies. Tatchibana is open only for dinner except on Sunday, when it offers lunch, too. Some of Marrakech's coolest eating spots are in the newer parts of the city. In Guéliz, Kechmara has mid-century modern decor with ever-changing art, and a sunny terrace that's a good choice for breakfast and lunch; the restaurant does a fine mixed grill for $12. Café du Livre, also in Guéliz, has free Wi-Fi and a selection of English-language books for you to peruse while ordering coffee, lunch, or an early dinner (entrées from $8). Sushi is served during the evening from Thursday to Saturday, but the café is open only until 9 p.m. And the colonial atmosphere at Grand Café de la Poste provides a nice backdrop for excellent salads, starting at $10, as well as hot meals. Enjoy a Casablanca beer on the covered veranda. In the majorly upscale category is Le Bis-Jardin des Arts, a new restaurant with gorgeous decor. The delicious entrées start at $17. For other überglamorous experiences, hop in a car and head to the city's outskirts. Restaurant L'Abbysin is at the stunning Palais Rhoul, a luxurious palace hotel. The sleek, white outdoor venue is photo-shoot worthy, even if the nouvelle cuisine is more passable than memorable. The Crystal Restaurant Lounge, in the trendy Pacha complex, has artful food arrangements almost too pretty to eat. Make reservations for Friday or Saturday night to listen to jazz. Ice Legend 52 ave. Bab Agnaou, Jemaa el-Fna, 011-212/24-44-42-00 Café des Épices 75 Rahba Lakdima, place des Épices, 011-212/24-39-17-70, https://cafedesepices.ma/ Terrasse des Épices Souk Cherifia, Dar el Bacha, 011-212/76-04-67-67 Kosybar 47 place des Fer­blantiers, Médina, 011-212/24-38-03-24, entrées from $19 Le Tanjia 14 Derb J'did Hay Essalam, Médina, 011-212/24-38-38-36, le-tanjia.com, monkfish $14 Café Arabe 184 rue el Mouassine, Médina, 011-212/24-42-97-28, cafearabe.com Tatchibana 38 Bab Ksiba, Kasbah, 011-212/24-38-71-71, tatchibana.free.fr, sushi plate $20 Kechmara 3 rue de la Liberté, Guéliz, 011-212/24-42-25-32, kechmara.com Café du Livre 44 rue Tarik ben Ziyad, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-21-49, cafedulivre.com Grand Café de la Poste blvd. el Mansour Eddahbi at ave. Imam Malik, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-30-38, grandcafedelaposte.com Le Bis-Jardin des Arts 6-7 rue Sakia el Hamra, Semlalia, 011-212/24-44-66-34, lebis-jardindesarts.com L'Abbysin Km 4, rte. de Fes, 011-212/24-32-85-84, palais-rhoul.com, entrées from $19 Crystal Restaurant Lounge blvd. Mohamed VI, Zone Hôtelière de l'Aguedal, 011-212/24-38-84-00, pachamarrakech.com, entrées from $10 Shop To my husband's dismay, I'm a decidedly enthusiastic shopper. And luckily--for me, anyway--Marrakech is known for its amazing shopping. Cradled within the medina's high fortresslike walls are the traditional markets, or souks. The majority of the souks are located to the north of the Jemaa el-Fna square. Picture a winding labyrinth with hundreds of shoebox-size stores overflowing with ornate lanterns, embroidered caftans, hammered teapots, leather poufs (a kind of ottoman that can also be made with carpet or fabric), and so much more. There's a method to the madness, as the souks are divided into areas of specialty, including metalwork, slippers, carpets, spices, and so on. Bargaining is the name of the game, and despite what vendors say, they do have different prices for tourists and locals. Start by offering one third of the vendor's price (offer even less for carpets), and then gradually work your way to a happy compromise. For the best prices, skip the shops on the outskirts of the Jemaa el-Fna and venture into the heart of the souks. Make a pit stop at the place des Ferblantiers to visit Najib La Joie. You can get tiny lanterns with panes of colored glass for $3 or less; they're so cheap, it's practically criminal not to buy several. For jersey caftans starting at $120--and gorgeous vintage ones--try Kasbek. They're perfect for when you host a Moroccan dinner party. In the Mouassine district, Cadeaux Berberes has some fantastic Moroccan pottery at prices so fair that wholesalers shop there. Take a look at the painted pottery sinks for around $30. Down the road, on the wall of the Mouassine Mosque, you'll find a make­shift gallery of black-and-white photography. You can pick up a copy of a wonderful photo of old Morocco for about $10. If you're interested in Moroccan carpets, Bazar Jouti, in the carpet souk, has a very nice selection. Offer a quarter of the price listed on the tag, and let the bargaining begin! Miloud Art Gallery, in Souk Cheratine, has a well-edited collection of poufs, pillows, clothes, lanterns, and bags. I'll say it again: Bargain! Most of the shops at the Ensemble Artisanal, in the Kasbah district, aren't worth your time. Maison du Cuivre is an exception, with its fine lanterns, mirrors, and bowls. Also in the Kasbah is Light Gallery, which has a reliably hip collection of art. On Thursday and Sunday mornings, you'll find Bab el Khemis market at the gate of the same name. Amid the broken clocks and TV remote controls are genuine treasures, such as vintage teapots and tea trays. I've been known to scout there for The Peacock Nest. In the New City, the shopping is less atmospheric, but there are fewer hassles, as fixed prices are the norm. Elbow your way through the throngs who come to buy designer-inspired leather shoes at Atika Boutique. The $70 pebble-soled driving loafers are particularly coveted. And although the stylish leather goods at Place Vendôme, a well-known shop in Guéliz, aren't as cheap as they are at the souks, the quality is significantly better. Maison Rouge Décoration is a Belgian-run shop with streamlined North African designs. The linens and painted glass plates are pricey but worth a look. About 10 minutes out of the city center is the industrial zone, Sidi Ghanem. Akkal stocks minimalist pottery in striking colors and shapes. To rock the casbah back home, pay a visit to Maison Méditerranéenne, a showroom with everything from ornately carved beds to armchairs that cost less than $150. Go to award-winning Zid Zid Kids, in the Daoudiate district, for embroidered animal-shaped pillows and other perfectly crafted children's stuff. Prices at this, the warehouse, are far less than what you'd pay at fancy stores back home in the U.S. Najib La Joie 44 place des Ferblantiers, Médina, 011-212/41-19-09-50 Kasbek 216 rue Riad Zitoun J'did, Médina, 011-212/63-77-56-90 Cadeaux Berberes 31 Moissine, Médina, 011-212/64-01-32-20 Bazar Jouti 28 Souk des Tapis, 011-212/66-08-89-80 Miloud Art Gallery Souk Cheratine, Talaa 48, Médina, 011-212/24-42-67-16 Maison du Cuivre Ensemble Artisanal, ave. Mohamed V, Kasbah, 011-212/61-50-98-24 Light Gallery 2 Derb Chtouka, Kasbah, 011-212/24-38-45-65 Atika Boutique 34 rue de la Liberté, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-64-09 Place Vendôme 141 ave. Mohamed V, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-52-63 Maison Rouge Décoration 6 rue de la Liberté, Guéliz, 011-212/24-44-81-30 Akkal 322 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem, 011-212/24-33-59-38, akkal.net Maison Méditerranéenne 230 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem, 011-212/24-33-60-00 Zid Zid Kids 338 BI. 71, Unit 2, Daoudiate, 011-212/63-47-72-92, zidzid.com, by appointment only Play When we first moved here, my husband would throw open the curtains every morning and say jokingly, "Another lousy day." It's almost always sunny and, with the exception of July (hot) and August (scorching), there's never a bad time to visit. Not surprisingly, outdoor activities abound, day and night. I always recommend that people take a calèche--a horse and buggy--for a trip around the medina walls. A one-hour ride for up to four people should run less than $20; the calèche operators tend to be found between Koutoubia Mosque and Jemaa el-Fna, across from the Club Med. For those who want more adrenaline-pumping entertainment--or to work off residual work frustrations--go-karting and quad biking are readily available in the surrounding desert. Dunes & Désert Exploration is the group to bring out your inner speed demon. And no North African trip is complete without a camel ride. Book one through Dunes & Désert, or look for a guide near La Palmeraie, on the city's eastern side. A two-hour ride with tea in a village costs $30 or so. Marrakech is also rapidly becoming a golf destination. It's currently home to three golf courses, with three others under construction. A round at the Amelkis Golf Club or the Royal Golf de Marrakech runs about $65. The Royal Golf course is arguably more beautiful, but advanced golfers prefer Amelkis. Reservations are essential for either of the courses. If your idea of vacation is lounging by the pool with a cocktail in hand, La Plage Rouge, approximately five miles outside the city, is going to be your idea of heaven. The dramatic pool complex with restaurant and bar has a $26 entrance fee, but you might just spot a movie star or a model. Marrakech is filled with palm groves and gardens. Named after Jacques Majorelle, the artist who created it, the Jardin Majorelle was later bought by Yves Saint Laurent. With more than 350 types of plants, the small but exquisite garden is a cool respite from the excitement and bustle of the city. The gardens around Koutoubia Mosque are also a lovely (and free) place for an afternoon stroll. If lounging by the pool and walking in gardens leaves you insufficiently relaxed, you may require some spa time. At one of the many hammams, or steam baths, around the city, you can literally be steeped in Moroccan tradition. Les Bains de Marrakech is one of the most picturesque. Luxuriate in a hammam for 45 minutes for $20, or have a 60-minute massage with rose-petal oil for $45. Afterward, loll for a while on the daybeds in the gorgeous central courtyard and you will never want to leave. When the sun goes down, no place says Marrakech like the city's main square, Jemaa el-Fna. It's teeming with life, including an unusual cast of characters who are guaranteed to amaze. Herbalists promise to cure ills with potions made from dried lizards and other strange ingredients. Snake charmers lure sleepy cobras out of baskets. Traditional dentists armed with enormous pliers deal with troublesome molars on the spot. Veiled henna artists paint hands or feet in intricate patterns for the price of a Big Mac. Fortune-tellers read tarot cards. The carnivalesque atmosphere intensifies as the night goes on, with impromptu performances by acrobats, cross-dressing dancers, and trance-inducing musicians. Come with plenty of change in your pocket, as you'll be expected to contribute small amounts to enjoy the shows or take pictures. Anyone craving still more exotica should make a trip to Chez Ali. Although the show, held outside and featuring dozens of performers, is a bit cheesy, the singing and dancing will give you a good feeling for traditional Moroccan culture, and the horsemanship is spectacular. (Save some money by skipping the dinner and just going for the show.) The city also offers many opportunities for partying. Both Comptoir Darna and Palais Jad Mahal, two of the city's hippest hotspots, tap into the Moroccan fantasy theme, complete with belly dancers. You can also dance until dawn at the trendy Pacha, where the action doesn't begin until well after midnight. Dunes & Désert Exploration Hôtel Club Palmariva, Km 6, rte. de Fes, 011-212/61-24-69-48, dunesdesert.com, quad biking $89 Amelkis Golf Club Km 12, Ancienne rte. d'Ouarzazate, 011-212/24-40-44-14 Royal Golf de Marrakech Km 12, Ancienne rte. d'Ouarzazate, 011-212/24-40-98-28 La Plage Rouge Km 10, rte. de L'Ourika, 011-212/24-37-80-86 Jardin Majorelle ave. Yacoub el Mansour, Guéliz, 011-212/24-30-18-52, jardinmajorelle.com, $4 Les Bains de Marrakech 2 Derb Sedra, Bab Agnaou, Kasbah, 011-212/24-38-14-28, lesbainsdemarrakech.com Chez Ali La Palmeraie, 011-212/24-30-77-30, show without dinner $13 Comptoir Darna ave. Echouhada, Hivernage, 011-212/24-43-77-02, comptoirdarna.com Palais Jad Mahal 10 ave. Haroun Errachid, Bab J'did, 011-212/24-43-69-84 Pacha blvd. Mohamed VI, Zone Hôtelière de l'Aguedal, 011-212/24-38-84-00, pachamarrakech.com, cover from $13

Secret Hotels of Big Sur

DAVENPORT Davenport Roadhouse The former whaling town of Davenport isn't much more than a tiny row of buildings right on Highway 1, the two-lane road that winds along the California coast. One of those buildings is the Davenport Roadhouse. Originally a general store, the Roadhouse had evolved into a restaurant and B&B by the time Renée Kwan, a real-estate asset manager, noticed it as she was searching for good waves to surf. She now oversees the place with managers Jesse Katz, Jeff Hansen, and Robin Sirakides, CFO of Newman's Own Organics. The eight guest rooms in the main house have high ceilings and oversize windows, and they share one large balcony with ocean views. Next to the kitchen garden is a former bathhouse with four more rooms, each with photos of the property and the town from the early 1900s. The restaurant uses local, organic ingredients in its salads and thin-crust pizzas, and for dessert there are gigantic slices of ice cream cake. To create a sense of community, the owners showcase folk singers and bluegrass bands in the restaurant and host rotating art exhibits. 831/426-8801, davenportroadhouse.com, from $120, with breakfast. APTOS Sand Rock Farm Kris Sheehan always kept an eye out for arts-and-crafts antiques--and a small inn where she could show them off--as she traveled the coast for her telecom job. When she found a five-bedroom Craftsman-style home in Aptos, 60 miles north of Big Sur, she pounced, and opened it as a B&B in 2000. The rooms have a country aesthetic--rocking chairs and antique beds--and three have their own hot tubs. But the inn's main appeal is its surrounding 10 acres, which include a redwood grove and four gardens. Lilac and camellia bushes flower in one; rose bushes, protected from deer by a redwood fence, grow in another. Beyond the gardens and past a large wooden barn is an 1897 winery built by the original owner, who abandoned it after producing only one year's worth of wine. Guests have the option of eating breakfast--baked French toast with braised pears, for example, or broccoli and sun-dried tomato frittatas--in the dining room or on the deck under towering redwoods. Unless it's raining, there's really no choice. 831/688-8005, sandrockfarm.com, from $185, with breakfast. PACIFIC GROVE Anton Inn When John Enns landed a teaching position in Monterey in 2003, he and his wife, Gail--and all the art in her gallery in Washington, D.C.--moved to Pacific Grove, a sleepy respite from nearby Monterey. "We couldn't find anything that would be suitable for a gallery, so we bought a motel," John says. Soon after, Gail and their daughter Ilana opened Anton Inn as a motel/gallery, using the slow winter months to renovate. The 10 rooms have new electric fireplaces, tile floors, and subdued color palettes that complement the paintings and sculptures. On Thursday nights, the family hosts dinners for artists and any guests and friends who are interested in art. "We've had golfers, Japanese businessmen, an English playwright, an artistic director from an Israeli kibbutz, newlyweds from Egypt, and a wonderful German woman who spoke no English but delighted us all with her personality," says Gail. "One thing's for certain--it's always an experience." 831/373-4429, antoninn.com, from $119, with breakfast. BIG SUR Ripplewood Resort Back in the 1920s, the Fees, a local family, saw promise in the scenic valley formed by the Big Sur River. They built nine redwood-plank cabins along the river and christened them the Ripplewood Resort. (Eight other cabins, added over the next two decades, sit among the trees across Highway 1.) In 1955, Ted Hartman bought the property; two years ago, his son-in-law, Carl Shadwell, took it over. He and his brother Sean run the place. Room features vary from cabin to cabin: Some have decks, fireplaces, and/or skylights above the showers, and most have kitchens. Carl, a former chef, overhauled the restaurant's menu. "People insisted that we keep the potato casserole," says Sean, "so we had to invent a version we'd be happy with." The result--shredded potatoes blended with sour cream and cheese, and then baked or grilled--is the creamiest, most irresistible hash browns ever. 831/667-2242, ripplewoodresort.com, from $95. BIG SUR Glen Oaks In 1955, Doris Fee decided to build a 15-unit motel along Highway 1, next to the Ripplewood Resort. When Basil and Tracy Sanborn took over in 2005, everything was exactly as it had been 50 years earlier. The couple updated the reservations system--guests used to secure a spot by mailing in a check--and then tackled the rooms. "We wanted to maintain the spirit of Big Sur," Tracy says. She kept the adobe walls, added bamboo floors and furniture made of sustainable wood, and had California artists create felted-wool rugs and pillows. Bathrooms now have heated pebble floors and vanities made from recycled sorghum stock. Last fall, the Sanborns installed stairs along the redwood forest trail, and soon they'll put in picnic benches along the Big Sur River. "We have the best swimming hole in Big Sur," says Tracy. 831/667-2105, glenoaksbigsur.com, from $135. BIG SUR Deetjen's Big Sur Inn Deetjen's has been the embodiment of Big Sur for generations. It isn't about the plush amenities (there aren't any) or a feeling of seclusion (single-panel wood walls mean you can hear a neighbor's sneeze), but an appreciation for Big Sur itself. "The whole idea behind Deetjen's is its sense of place," says general manager Torrey Waag. Built in the 1930s by Norwegian immigrant Helmuth Deetjen, the hotel became a haven for artists and writers. These days, the hotel and its café are as much a draw for full-time Big Sur residents as they are for visitors. There are 20 rooms in seven ramshackle cabins, and they're not for everyone. But if the glowing comments in each room's guest book are any indication, there's something deeply satisfying about staying amid all the hand-built furniture, surrounded by a collection of antiques, with trees rustling and surf crashing in the background. 831/667-2377, deetjens.com, from $95. JOLON Hacienda Lodging The drive to the Hacienda, over the Santa Lucia Range, is so narrow and windy that it's impossible to go faster than 20 mph. The 17-mile journey from Highway 1 takes at least an hour, but it's worth it for the views of the Pacific and Los Padres National Forest. Built in the 1920s by William Randolph Hearst, the Hacienda was sold to the Department of War in 1940. A division of the Army now runs the California-mission-style house as a hotel. Rooms retain many original features--carved wooden doors and star-shaped windows--but the furniture is basic at best. Since it's within an active military-training base, the Hacienda has a peculiar set of amenities: Guests can play tennis, go bowling, pick up light meals at a café, and knock back $2 beers at the hotel bar (but only military personnel can shop at the commissary and the gas station). Call ahead to find out about any military exercises, because roads and gates may close. 831/386-2511, from $45, with breakfast. SOUTH BIG SUR Treebones Resort John Handy and his wife, Corinne, spent years searching the central coast for a place to retire. Only after they bought 11 acres in southern Big Sur, however, did they realize that new zoning laws wouldn't allow them to build a house. So they built a hotel. "But we didn't want it to be like a hotel at all," says John. His mother turned the couple on to the idea of yurts, tent-like structures that can be built with very little wood; their simple foundations also wouldn't require bulldozing the steeply sloped land. John commissioned craftsmen to make chairs from unwanted saplings for the main lodge; for the terrace, he had a 65-foot bar built from a redwood that had been cut down and abandoned. The 16 yurts have pine floors and wooden furniture, and best of all, each has a skylight to let the sun and stars peek through. 877/424-4787, treebonesresort.com, from $155, with breakfast. SAN SIMEON Best Western Cavalier Oceanfront Resort As Highway 1 approaches San Simeon, the cliffs of Big Sur mellow into rolling hills and low bluffs--an ideal setting for the oceanfront fire pits at the Best Western Cavalier Oceanfront Resort. The 90 rooms, spread out among five 2-story buildings, share three fire pits, outdoor heated pools, and a hot tub. The property's story is a testament to the area's allure. In 1959, Harris Victor, a butcher in Tacoma, Wash., took his family on a road trip along the California coast. When he noticed all the tourists heading to Hearst Castle, he decided to open a motel--and bought property within the week. "It was quite a surprise," says his daughter, Barbara Hanchett. "We never went back to Tacoma." Harris eventually sold that motel and opened this one, now run by Barbara and her husband, Michael. The family oversaw an extensive renovation of the rooms three years ago; some now boast two-person soaking tubs. All the rooms with views have binoculars for bird-watching--but you don't need anything except your ears to hear the churning waves. 800/826-8168, cavalierresort.com, from $99. Big Sur proper is a town on the Pacific Coast about 150 miles south of San Francisco, but the term also refers to the 90-mile stretch between Carmel and San Simeon. To get there, fly into San Francisco or San Jose, and make your way to Highway 1. Because of high demand, the hotels in this story tend to book up very early, especially in summer, and they often have minimum-stay requirements on weekends. As an alternative, you may want to check out the house rentals and B&Bs listed on Vacation Rentals By Owner's website, vrbo.com.