Awesome Art Hotels

By Bunny Wong
February 5, 2008
0803_arthotels
Artists and other creative types are having their way with hotel rooms—and they're thinking way outside the box.

Amsterdam
The Winston
Located in the red-light district on the oldest street in Amsterdam, the Winston, now owned by the English hotel group St. Christopher's, has quite a past. The previous owner, the late Frans Verlinden, cultivated a bohemian atmosphere in the 1980s and '90s, with "hookers, journalists, filmmakers, but most of all, artists" as frequent guests, explains manager Donald Kauwoh. Verlinden spearheaded the art-hotel trend and hired artist Aldert Mantje to select colleagues to decorate rooms and install temporary exhibits. While it started out being fairly avant-garde--guests may have encountered dead leaves and even, possibly, an animal corpse on display--the hotel has mellowed somewhat in recent years.

Notable Rooms: The anime-inspired Playnation room, by Adriaan Koster and Menno Schenk, sports psychedelic swirls and patterns on the walls, a Pac-Man-like maze on the ceiling, and a giant 3-D gold robot in the corner. Madelein de Bruijn, meanwhile, envisioned the Energy room as a life-size circuit board: Flow lines track a course along the yellow walls, and there's a lightning-bolt hazard sign on the door. Warmoesstraat 129, 011-31/20-623-1380, winston.nl, from $95.

Singapore
The New Majestic
When hotelier Loh Lik Peng renovated a hotel built from four Chinatown shophouses in 2006, he collaborated with the Asian Art Options collective to find artists to paint murals in all 30 rooms.

Notable Rooms: Marker-and-acrylic murals by Sandra Lee in the Cheshire Suite conjure up a tweaked nursery-book charm; in one, a small red-haired girl flies toward a gigantic turtle. Justin Lee riffs off pop culture in three of the rooms. The one titled Da Jie ("Big Sister," pictured) features Mickey Mouse ears containing double-happiness symbols. 31-37 Bukit Pasoh Rd., 011-65/6511-4700, newmajestichotel.com, from $200.

Berlin
Arte Luise Kunsthotel
After the fall of the Berlin Wall, artists camped out in a neoclassical building in the Mitte district of East Berlin until it evolved into a hotel in 1999. Dozens of artists, mainly German, decorated the rooms. There are now 50 total: A glass-and-concrete addition with nine new rooms opened in 2003.

Notable Rooms: Dieter Mammel placed an oversize oak bed in Mammel's Dream, so guests could reexperience a child's perspective. Thomas Baumgärtel went bananas in the Royal Suite. Andreas Paeslack turned Room 300 into a 3-D version of Poor Poet, a painting of a rustic room by 19th-century artist Carl Spitzweg. In a postmodern wink, Paeslack even depicted spectators on one wall. Luisenstrasse 19, 011-49/30-28-4480, luise-berlin.com, from $197.

Cape Town, South Africa
Daddy Long Legs
The poets, artists, and musicians behind Daddy Long Legs encourage guests to interact with the decor. Kim Stern's Please Do Not Disturb, for instance, has six microphones--including one in the shower--so you can amplify your singing. The neighbors won't mind: The hotel is above a music store.

Notable Rooms: Poet Finuala Dowling stocked the Palimpset room with South African literature in which she underlined favorite passages; guests can add their own marginalia. Bert Pepler's Emergency Room imagines a hospital room in red, with medical supplies as decoration. One of the hotel's more amusing rooms is Andre Vorster's You Are Here. 134 Long St., 011-27/21-422-3074, daddylonglegs.co.za, from $69.

Nice, France
The Windsor
Inspired by a 1987 Belgian exhibition of artist-decorated rooms, Bernard Redolfi commissioned one artist a year to transform one of the Windsor's rooms. The hotel is now owned by his niece Odile Payen-Redolfi, who continues the tradition. So far, 25 of the 57 rooms have received the treatment.

Notable Rooms: French photographer Raymond Hains lived in Room 40 for three years; when he left in 1995, he installed a portrait of himself taken there, amid his clutter. In Room 65, Ben Vautier spray painted phrases in French (such as "I dreamed that I fell in love with the stranger in Room 17") in red, yellow, and blue on the walls. Claudio Parmiggiani resized Room 57 from a standard rectangle into a cube, put a white underlit bed in the center, and covered the walls and ceiling with gold leaf. 11 rue Dalpozzo, 011-33/4-93-88-59-35, hotelwindsornice.com, from $132.

Toronto
The Gladstone
Born into respectability as a boarding house run by a widow with 13 children, the 1889 Parkdale landmark eventually slid into poverty. Six years ago, the Zeidler family, including architect Eberhard and his daughter Christina, bought the building and renovated it. They kept the Victorian plaster moldings and wooden floors, but not much else. Christina, a film-and-video artist in her own right, commissioned local talents to design the 37 rooms, added film screenings, and set up temporary art exhibitions in the hallways.

Notable Rooms: In Faux Naturelle, Allyson Mitchell created a psychedelic fake-fur tapestry featuring nymphs. Snapshot, by Christina, plays with the idea of a forest growing out of furniture: A larger-than-life print of a nearby park aflame with autumn leaves is mounted above the headboard in a Plexi­glas frame and folded like an accordion. 1214 Queen St. W., 800/531-4635, gladstonehotel.com, from $185.

Copenhagen
Hotel Fox
In 2005, Volkswagen hired marketing firm Eventlabs to redo Copenhagen's Park Hotel for the launch of the car company's Fox model. Eventlabs held a contest to select not only the artists who would create the rooms, but also the hotel staff. Many of the winning concepts were from international creative firms whose designs mix slickness (honed through their work for Nike and MTV) with the aesthetics of graffiti and graphic novels.

Notable Rooms: Sleep Seasons, by Australian firm Rinzen, has a tent with a mattress inside; murals of the four seasons are on the walls. Monday (pictured), by Norwegian illustrator Kim Hiorthøy, isn't one for obsessive-compulsives. Jarmers Plads 3, 011-45/33-95-77-55, hotelfox.dk, from $217.

Paris
Hotel Amour
In 2006, graffiti artist and nightclub impresario André Saraiva--a.k.a. M. André--teamed up with businessmen Thierry Costes and Emmanuel Delavenne to open Hotel Amour, a 20-room hotel in the once-seedy Pigalle neighborhood. André enlisted his art-world friends, such as fashion photographer Terry Richardson, to design rooms that eschew televisions, minibars, and even phones--but they do have bedside iPod docks and Kiehl's products in the bathrooms.

Notable Rooms: Alexandre de Betak, the creative force behind Victoria's Secret fashion shows, designed Room 401 with a runway vibe: The 200 disco balls hanging from the ceiling make everything sparkle. Room 405, by M. André himself, boasts a floor-to-ceiling shelf of his line of (occasionally risqué) toys and figurines. 8 rue Navarin, 011-33/1-48-78-31-80, hotelamour.com, from $190.

San Francisco
Hotel des Arts
Manager Hero Nakatani hired local gallery owner John Doffing to curate Hotel des Arts' first exhibition in 2004 and then had Doffing find artists ranging from graffiti taggers to professional illustrators to redesign half of the hotel's 51 rooms; other curators took over from there. Paintings by emerging artists are exhibited in the hallways.

Notable Rooms: Jet Martinez was inspired by the imagery and colors of his native Mexico when he painted a modern fairy story--with a glittering moon and a silver- and gold-leaf forest full of frogs and flowers--on the walls of Room 208. In Room 411, by Dave Kinsey, a man's head and torso cover an entire corner, and tribal graphics are drawn on bedside tables and next to door locks. 447 Bush St., 800/956-4322, sfhoteldesarts.com, from $99.

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Amazon Rain Forest

Stretching 2.3 million square miles across South America, the world's largest rain forest is home to more than a third of all known species, including a staggering 2.5 million different kinds of insects alone. But the Amazon river basin is under threat: The pace of logging and clearing land for agriculture has hastened considerably, creating a sense of urgency in travelers who want to see the forest before it's lost forever. These three options are a good start. Tefé and Tabatinga The main gateway to the Brazilian Amazon is the old rubber boomtown of Manaus (round-trip flights from Miami via Panama City cost about $700 on Copa Airlines). From Manaus, hop another flight to Tabatinga, near the border with Colombia and Peru, and drift back to the city on a riverboat. Most flights allow you to stop for several days in Tefé--a remote town near the Mamirauá nature reserve, where the Solimões and Japurá rivers converge. The park contains an abundance of wildlife, including egrets, herons, ospreys, and bitterns, as well as numerous monkey species. The Pousada Uacari lodge has been built on rafts floating on the water--the grunts of caimans are audible all night long. The minimum three-night stay costs $550 per person, with meals and wildlife trips included (011-55/97-3343-4160, uakarilodge.com.br). The boat ride back to Manaus on the Solimões takes about three days. An upper-deck cabin with bunk beds is $320, meals included, on one of the privately operated boats that usually leave daily from the Tabatinga port. To enjoy the scenery, buy a hammock in town, string it up on the deck, and relax alongside the locals. The Tucano A more comfortable way to explore the Amazon basin is aboard Ecotour Expeditions' Tucano yacht. Run by English-speaking nature experts, the weeklong cruises on the Río Negro go to areas of untouched jungle that other cruise ships don't reach. The exact itinerary depends on the time of year, but all trips include a stop at a kind of forest called the igapó, which is routinely flooded by the river. The area is rich in fauna and flora, including orchids and bromeliads that dangle from tree limbs. Guides also lead tours through a denser part of the jungle where howler monkeys, anteaters, and sloths live. The Tucano has only nine cabins, all of which have air-conditioning. The boat leaves Manaus twice a month on Sundays and costs $2,300 per person for a double-occupancy cabin; singles can team up with another solo traveler or pay a $920 supplement. The price includes meals and side trips (800/688-1822, naturetours.com). Marajó Island Marajó Island, an island the size of Switzerland in the mouth of the Amazon, is less than four hours by ferry from the Atlantic coast city of Belém (round-trip tickets from the Icoaraci port near Belém are less than $10). The wildlife on the island is incredibly diverse, from parrots and marmosets to manatees and giant pirarucu fish in the river. The Hotel Ilha do Marajó in the town of Soure will organize wildlife outings by jeep or horseback ($50 for single, $62 for double occupancy per night, 011-55/91-4006-3850, iaraturismo.com.br). Another option is staying at a water-buffalo ranch, where you can watch cowboys at work and ride buffalo. The Fazenda Nossa Senhora do Carmo runs $97 per person per night, including meals and excursions (011-55/91-9166-1521). Amazon packages Abreu Tours sells two tours aboard a 72-cabin Iberostar ship, both of which include round-trip airfare from New York or Miami to Manaus (800/223-1580, abreu-tours.com). Three nights on the Solimões starts at $1,700 per person, double occupancy (single supplement from $495). Four nights on the Río Negro starts at $2,025 (single supplement from $645).

Ancient Petra

In 1812, Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt was on the ultimate dream trip, crossing Arabia disguised as a trader in search of the fabled "lost city of stone." The ancient city built by the Nabataean tribe of Arab nomads had been the source of many tales, but no Westerner had ever seen it. Burckhardt convinced a guide to take him there, saying he wanted to make an offering, and was astonished by the beauty of the ruins, now known as Petra ("rock" in Greek). Ever since, the buildings--carved into the towering pink sandstone cliffs more than 2,000 years ago--have been a must-see destination. Petra is in the mountains of southwestern Jordan, where it can be blazingly hot in the summer and frigid in the winter--even snow is possible. The best months to go are April and May, when the weather is mild and dry. Visitors typically fly to Amman, the capital, and then drive about three hours south to Wadi Musa, the town next to Petra. Rental cars cost about $45 a day, and the roads are excellent. The ruins are another 15 minutes by car from Wadi Musa. Try to arrive when Petra opens at 6 a.m. to avoid the mid-morning crush of tour groups--for several hours, you'll have the site largely to yourself. Wadi Musa has seen a boom in hotel construction in recent years. One of the most interesting options is the Taybet Zaman (011-962/3-215-0111, jordan-travel.jo/taybet_zaman, from $96 per night), built in the stone houses of a century-old Ottoman village and decorated with traditional Bedouin rugs, blankets, and art. Tickets for Petra are available at the main gate for $28 for one day, $37 for two days, or $44 for three days. While you can see most of the major sites in a day, two or three days will give you ample time to explore the side trails and less-visited tombs. Maps are available at the visitors center; to get a better sense of the history, hire one of the English-speaking guides ($28 for a half day, $70 for a full day including one of the major hikes, such as the High Place of Sacrifice or the Monastery). The sun can be relentless, so bring a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water. The ruins stay open until sunset, and there also are night tours three days a week. The Siq To reach Petra, you first pass through the Siq, the sliver of a canyon that protected the city from invaders for hundreds of years. The half-mile-long path, its cobblestones rutted by carts and chariots, is so narrow that it's almost completely cut off from the sun, making the air feel chilly. The gorge is lined with ancient water channels and has beautiful bas-reliefs on the steep rock walls. The Treasury The 140-foot-high Treasury has greeted visitors to Petra since it was built in the 1st century A.D. As with many of the ruins, its name is misleading: The structure was actually built as a tomb. But according to local folklore, Bedouins believed an Egyptian pharaoh had hidden his treasure inside the urn on top of the building, and they shot at it a number of times to try to break it open. The façade endured the assaults well, and it's been naturally protected from erosion by the canyon walls, preserving it in far greater detail than many other sites at Petra. Street of Façades To the right of the Treasury, the ancient city opens up into the Street of Façades, where more than 40 tombs have been carved into the mountainside. One intricate tomb on the end of a cliff has a regal row of crowns on the top. Near the amphitheater are dozens of unadorned gravesites, most likely for commoners. Royal Tombs Built on the eastern cliffs of Petra, the Royal Tombs give off a dazzling array of reds, purples, pinks, and browns in the sunlight. The Urn Tomb, the largest one, was chiseled out of the rock high on the mountainside, with dozens of steps leading up from the valley. Historians believe the tomb was built around 70 A.D. and is the gravesite of either King Malchus II or King Aretas IV. Farther along the mountainside, the Tomb of Sextus Florentius was constructed to honor the Roman governor of Arabia after the Romans conquered Petra in the 2nd century A.D. It's one of few ruins to have been inscribed with a date; historians don't know for certain when the rest of the city was built. The Monastery The giant tomb known as the Monastery (Al-Deir in Arabic) lies at the end of a 2.5-mile mountain path. The Monastery rivals the Treasury in terms of grandness--the façade is 170 feet wide, and the main doorway is two stories high. The structure was built as a tomb in the 1st century A.D. During the Byzantine era, however, it was used as a Christian church, and crosses were painted inside--which may be why it's called the Monastery. High Place of Sacrifice The path from the valley to the High Place of Sacrifice passes a pair of obelisks dedicated to the Nabataean gods Dushara and Al'Uzza, then rises steeply to Al-Madbah, the flat, stone area where animal sacrifices were performed. The circular stone is surrounded by carved pools, which some historians claim were meant to catch the animals' blood. Don't miss the excellent valley views just past the altar. Petra at night On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, the Siq and the Treasury are lit with 1,800 candles and open to tourists for an hour and a half after dark. If you let most of the other visitors go through the passageway first, you can enjoy a contemplative walk and still have time to catch the Bedouin music concert inside the Treasury courtyard. The tour begins at 8:30 p.m. You can buy tickets ($17) at Petra's main gate or ahead of time at a tour agency.

Trip Coach: February 5, 2008

Amy Langfield: Hi, I'm Amy Langfield and I've signed on to answer some of your questions about NYC. In case you don't know, New York keeps shattering its record-tourism numbers—about 46 million people visited NYC in 2007—but there are still far too few hotel beds. So while crime is also at a record low, you're still likely to feel robbed when it comes to the hotel bill. One key thing you need to know is that you're supposed to walk to the right, preferably a little faster than you're used to. And when you stop to gawk, which is perfectly acceptable, please just step to the side so the 45 million don't bump into you. On to the Qs.... _______________________ Lebanon, Ind.: My adult son and I are registered as contestants in the Crossword Puzzle Tournament to be held at the Brooklyn Bridge Marriott, February 29-March 2, 2008. We will fly into LaGuardia on the evening of February 28, and have reserved a room at that hotel. Since the tournament activities will not begin until 8:00 p.m. on the 29th, we will have most of that day free. Neither of us has experienced NYC. Can you outline a city tour that will include some of the "must see" sites? —Joe Amy Langfield: Hi, Lebanon. The tournament sounds like great fun. The Brooklyn Bridge Marriott is conveniently close to the Brooklyn Borough Hall (and Jay Street) subway lines, which gives you plenty of easy options to get to Manhattan. However, you're also a short walk to the Brooklyn Bridge, which is an easy—and awesome—way to arrive in Manhattan. Just be sure to stay out of the bike lane while walking the bridge. On the Manhattan side, you come out near City Hall and if you like you can turn south and walk to Wall Street, Federal Hall, the New York Stock Exchange and Ground Zero. Conversely, at the base of the bridge you can take a subway to the Upper East Side and work your way back down. There's the Met Museum and Central Park, working back down Fifth Avenue you'll pass The Plaza hotel (still closed for renovations,) hit Rockefeller Center and St. Patrick's Cathedral, and down to the main branch of the NY Public Library for a walk through the main reading room. From there, swing over to Times Square and have a look around. You can take a subway directly back to Borough Hall from there—or hop on the S subway shuttle that goes directly to Grand Central Terminal. After having a look around there, take the 4 or 5 subway to Borough Hall. During the tournament, if you have time to sneak out for food, you can walk down toward the base of the Brooklyn Bridge for pizza at Grimaldi's, or for snacks, hit up the nearby Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory or Jacques Torres chocolate shop. In addition to the knockout views of the bridges and Manhattan, you get a severe dose of history with the old warehouses and plaques detailing the waterfront's important role in the battle of Brooklyn. (Not a good day for Gen. George Washington.) In the nearby park between the Manhattan and Brooklyn bridges, there's actually a wee bit of East River sandy beach. Also by the time you get here, Harlem's much-loved Amy Ruth's should have already opened its new location in the space formerly occupied by the historic Gage & Tollner restaurant which kindly left its gaslamps behind in the restaurant. It's just a short walk from your hotel, just across from the A/C/F trains at Jay Street/Borough Hall. _______________________ New York: Funky place to have brunch or lunch before heading to the MET? We are staying in midtown Manhattan. Amy Langfield: Picnic! Head over to Whole Foods market at the Time Warner Center and grab an assortment of prepared foods to go. Take the escalators up to grab a few extra sweets from the counter at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery. That done, walk across the street and you're in Central Park, where there's always space to be fund to picnic on the grass, on a bench or rock outcropping. From there, walk through the park to the Met. _______________________ Cape Elizabeth, Maine: What would you say is the best high quality hotel in NYC for the price? Amy Langfield: I've been hearing consistently good reports on the Ritz-Carlton, Battery Park. It's on the water near the southern tip of Manhattan and has great views of the harbor, as well as a new spa. Check their specials and packages for better rates. _______________________ New York, N.Y.: What suggestions do you have for activities with 2 six-year-olds in NY from March 3-16? We have tickets to 2 Broadway plays for the evenings of March 13 and 14. Looking for day-time suggestions. Thanks, Elaine Amy Langfield: Hi, Elaine. If you're taking the kids to Broadway both nights, my main concern is that you don't want to wear them out too much during the day. That said, I'd definitely head up to the American Museum of Natural History one morning and let them see the dinosaurs and all the other kid- (and adult-) friendly offerings. (Be aware that their basement cafeteria is far from soothing when crowded, so an early (or late) lunch there is advisable.) When they start getting stir-crazy, merely walk out the front door of the museum, across the street, and they're in Central Park. Take a short path and there are some great rocks to climb on, useful for burning up loads of crazy kid energy. On the other day, I'd consider the Toys R Us in Times Square, FAO Schwarz at the southeast corner of Central Park, a ride on the Staten Island Ferry or a walk across Brooklyn Bridge. For skyscrapers, I'd pick Top of the Rock over the Empire State Building unless you can convince them it's worth the longer line in order to get to the top of the tallest building in the city. And if they're patient enough to do a second museum, do the Met Museum and get the free kids guide. Since you're trying to cram in a lot, I'd suggest making a bee-line for five or six kid-pleasers and head out, such as the Temple of Dendur and the enormous painting of "George Washington Crossing the Delaware." And if you're going to just make a quick walk through, you can go completely guilt-free by ignoring their "suggested admission" and pay less—as little as a penny per person. Actually, you could pay a penny and stay all day, but they don't really advertise that. And in case you are taking the kids to Broadway (or even if you aren't) do whatever you can to avoid needing the restrooms at intermission. The lines are long seemingly before the curtain hits the floor of the stage. _______________________ Charleston, S.C.: Where is a great hotel in the heart of NYC for a young German couple to take their parents also. They are traveling in Feb and need a great rate. Amy Langfield: Hotels are always tough. In September, BudgetTravel.com had Charlie Suisman of Manhattan User's Guide answer questions as the Trip Coach and he suggested a few good options including The Pod Hotel. You may also try your luck with the Hampton Inn at the South Street Seaport, the Holiday Inn Express in Park Slope Brooklyn or the Hotel QT just off Times Square, though its lobby pool parties hardly makes this an ideal family-friendly option. Also you may want to keep an eye on new hotels, which tend to have lower rates during their soft-open phase. However, I strongly discourage against booking into a hotel that hopes to open in time for your arrival. For every new hotel that opens its doors on schedule, there are 10 that end up with six months of delays. While a lot of people think they're going to save money by staying at a cheaper hotel in New Jersey or out by the airports, plenty of them find they make up the difference and then some by blowing it on a cab once a twice a day rather than spend yet another hour on the PATH train/bus/subway from the outer boroughs. In general, you can expect to pay $200 to $300 for a typical NY hotel room. And if you find a $99 a night deal, hit the Internet and see if the shared bathroom is down the hall, if it's in the right state or if it's twice been voted the dirtiest hotel in the country. _______________________ Bellingham, Wash.: My boyfriend & I are planning our first trip to New York April 7 through 11, 2008. We would love some economical recommendations for accommodations in the city. A must see & do list for us first timers would be so helpful as well. Thanks so much! —Michelle Amy Langfield: Hi, Michelle. Again, the Pod Hotel or Hotel QT might be a good choice for you guys. If this is your first trip to NYC and you have a few days, I definitely recommend the Ellis Island/Statue of Liberty trip. My key bit of advice is to book this online ahead of time, choosing the first boat of the day and most importantly—click the box for the free monument pass. It's the only way you can get into the statue's museum, see up into the statue itself and see the "give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses...." Poem. Additionally, if you want to go up to the top of the Empire State Building, when you buy your ticket, tell them you want to spend the extra $15 to get the pass for the 102nd floor. The masses go to the 86th deck, blissfully unaware they could have gone higher. Also, you may want to invest in the fast pass here, which let's you skip much of the absurd lines. But if you truly hate lines, head over to the Top of the Rock at the top of Rockefeller Center, as their timed-ticketing system will whisk you in and out, and give you a heads-and-shoulders view of the Empire State Building. For couples, there's a great semi-secret thing to do down in Grand Central. Find the Oyster Bar and then stand under the wide archway. You and your boyfriend should then walk to diagonal corners and each get your nose deep into your respective corners. Then start in with the sweet nothings—but just in a whisper. The design of the archway "telegraphs" your voice across the wide arch so that only your significant other can hear you. Ice skating in Central Park or at Rock Center is always fun, and if you want to splurge, you can take a private before or after-hours tours of the Museum of Modern Art. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: We're meeting our 18-year-old college student in NYC over President's Day Weekend. Problem: she's a true vegetarian. Other than old standby Anjelica's Kitchen, are there any other legitimate vegetarian restaurants in the city? Doesn't need to be vegan. Thanks! —Lisa Amy Langfield: There are tons of options. We just had a fantastic meal at Red Bamboo in Fort Greene, Brooklyn. Have a look at the Super Vegan guide for NYC. I'm also a big fan of OpenTable.com, which lets you make restaurant reservations online, for free. Just plug in your dates, number in your party, preferred time and select vegetarian (or Italian, Chinese, German, etc.) and it lets you know which restaurants have availability at those times. _______________________ Australia: Hi, my husband and myself—both seniors—are planning to travel from Boston to New York on June 8. We are considering train? What station does the train arrive at? We have 3 nights prior to our flight from JFK airport at 18:00 on the 11th of June. Where could we visit in our 3 days? Also how do we find information on Broadway shows and costs? Accommodation is expensive, booking now in the city. What would be a good area to stay in both central and out of town to save on costs? Or maybe we could wait and book a last-minute hotel? Any web sites would be helpful. I have been told there are volunteer hosts who are available to show visitors around—is that so? Any other information would be welcome. Cheers! —Gwen Amy Langfield: Hi, Australia! Hopefully I've already provided you enough hotel and NY basics above to get you going, but let me tackle a few of your other ones. Amtrak will bring you into NYC's Penn Station. If you're booking the tickets through Amtrak.com, be sure to check their hot deals page for two-for-one tickets and other promotions. Another good option from Boston is the LimoLiner luxury bus. As for Broadway shows, Playbill.com has a full list of all the current Broadway and Off-Broadway shows along with a summary of plots, cast and location. The easiest way to get cheap tickets is to head to the TKTS booth just off Times Square and check the list of tickets available at discount, many half-price. See TKTS online to see what's been available lately. The free volunteer guide service you're thinking of is Big Apple Greeter which you should request in advance. But there are a number of other free walking tours every week, including ones offered by the Central Parks Conservancy, the NYC Urban Rangers, and a number of the business improvement districts such as around Ground Central, Wall Street and Union Square. _______________________ Cleveland, Ohio: We have taken our kids to NYC before and hit all the tourist attractions. What are some little known destinations for kids outside of Dillon's Candy Store and the Children's Museum that you don't read about in the guides and the magazines? Amy Langfield: Cleveland, rock 'n' roll. Not knowing what your kids are into, let me take a shot at a wide range of things that might appeal. The Natural History Museum (mentioned above) and its Rose Center for Earth and Space always have rotating exhibitions and programs, so it's not really the kind of place you can see once and cross off your list for life. (The same goes for the Met Museum, the Bronx Zoo and most of the other museums and galleries.) Since you mention Dylan's Candy Shop, I should point you to two newer ones, directly across the street from each other on the north end of Times Square: Hershey's and the M&M superstores. The new Papabubble candy shop has also been getting lots of good buzz. In the past couple of years there's been a new scene of teen rock bands playing gigs at bars and clubs—often on weekend afternoons. If that appeals, also check out the Willie Mae Rock Camp for Girls. Also look at some of the neighborhoods in the outer boroughs. This past weekend we took my stepson out to Brighton Beach and he was amazed to see all the signs in Cyrillic and to listen to all the native Russian speakers. He had a ball, and bought a T-Shirt that claimed it was "made in Russia." _______________________ Pella, Iowa: What is the cheapest route of transportation from the New Jersey airport to downtown Manhattan? Thanks for your response. Amy Langfield: I think the cheapest is NJ Transit bus. Another option: AirTrain. _______________________ Fairfax, Va.: I am heading to New York City for 2 nights in a few weeks. What restaurant would you recommend that I absolutely eat at without breaking the bank? I love food. Thanks. Amy Langfield: Food lover, let me introduce you to the absurd world of online food pornographers specializing in New York City. You probably know about the stand-by food guides like Zagat, Gayot and Michelin, as well as the reviews in the major print pubs such as the New York Times and New York magazine. But to dive in head first, check out the food blogs and chat boards. Some of my favorites are Eater.com, Slice.com, Grub Street, Chowhound—and the very efficient Midtown Lunch. _______________________ Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada: I am going to visit NYC in September this year with friends. I have been there before but it's been a long time. We'd like to stay in a neighborhood with restaurants and shops in walking distance...a neighborhood with NYers living in it. Which area do you suggest? Thanks, Susan Amy Langfield: Hi, Susan. You might want to immerse yourself in the rapidly changing Lower East Side by staying at the Blue Moon Hotel, which was an immigrant tenement building until not too long ago. The neighborhood is steeped in history, shopping, restaurants and bars. The new and old chafes hard here. _______________________ Waco, Tex.: I will be traveling in NYC 5/8-5/11 before departing on a cruise. I am traveling with a total of 6 people—from my 15-month-old son to my elderly grandfather who tires out easily. This is my first trip to NYC. We are flying into LGA. What's the best way to get from the airport to a hotel near Times Square? Any good advice for where to stay to be close to the regular tourist sites without breaking the bank completely? I found a tour company—The LimoTour—that will take us on a 4-hour tour of the city on Friday morning for $320 including tips, tolls, taxes, etc. That seems like a good price, but how can I make sure I'm dealing with a reputable place? I can't find any reviews for them. Thanks! Amy Langfield: Hi, Waco. Another tough one. Normally I'd say to count on a lot of cab rides to make it easier on your granddad, but you can't cram 6 (or even 5 and a half) info a cab, and hailing two at once isn't always easy. Since I don't know anything about the Limo Tour, I'd be more inclined to stick with the double-decker bus-type tours. Since this sounds like a special family trip, you may want to book a Photo Trek tour, in which a professional photographer is your guide—and photographer. As for other things you can do that won't tire your grandfather, the Yankees have a homestand against Cleveland while you're here, including one afternoon game. You could do one of the harbor cruises—Circle Line's Zephyr is particularly nice—or even the free Staten Island Ferry. Central Park might be a good option, including the zoo, as there are places to sit while a youngin' can roam. And maybe even the revolving restaurant atop the Marriott Marquis Times Square. You'll get a 360 in just an hour. _______________________ Annandale, Va.: Where did "Big Apple" come from? Amy Langfield: There is no shortage of definitive, incorrect answers to that one. The book Naming New York by Sanna Feirstein says it could be a jazz term—or from a New Orleans horse track. Take your pick. _______________________ New York, N.Y.: Can you recommend a laid back sort of bar with a great view of New York City to take out of town friends to? Amy Langfield: If the weather works, I'd hit one of the rooftop bars, such as 230 Fifth. White Horse Tavern in the West Village gets you a slower, street-vibe, but very laid back in a classic New York Bar with a room dedicated to too-frequent guest Dylan Thomas. _______________________ Austin, Tex.: Hello, my daughter (19-years-old) is going to NYC with two girlfriends on March 7. I would really appreciate if you can tell us anything that could be useful for them, like which area to stay in that is safe (we were planning close to Times Square so they are close to attractions and theaters), what to do in 5 days, and mainly how to enjoy NYC without spending too much money! Thank you! —Ida Amy Langfield: Hi, Austin. Crime shouldn't be a problem just about anywhere in Manhattan. She may just want to avoid the late-night clubs at closing time when some fights have spilled out onto the sidewalks as of late. Though if your daughter is anything like I was at 19, I'm sure she'd never ever go near a club where they serve alcohol and boys prowl for scantily-clad girls. So don't worry on that count. As for the not spending too much money, almost all of the museums have free hours each week. Many/most Broadway shows and cultural events have student rush, cheap-seats lotteries or standing-room tickets available. Lots of the city's iconic sights are free—Central Park, the Staten Island Ferry, Times Square, Bryant Park, walking the bridges and the subway's only $2. Oh, and book signings are often overlooked, but they're free and a legit way to get face-time with celebrities. Also, if you want to hit a few "splurge"-type restaurants, do it at lunch rather than dinner. _______________________ Oacoma, S.D.: What time of the year is best to visit NYC without all the crowds, but not freezing weather either? Also, for a first-timer in NYC with 5 days, what are some "must-see" activities you'd recommend? Amy Langfield: You should do OK in April or May with the weather. August feels empty-ish as the New Yorkers head off to the beaches to avoid the heat (but there will still be lots of tourists, in, you know, the tourist spots). September tends to be one of the best months of the year because school vacations are over, everyone's back from the beach and getting down to business. The museums are opening with new exhibitions and the air loses that stench and picks up the first hint of crisp. However, the mood of the city understandably remains melancholy the first half of the month around the September 11 anniversary. I've discussed a number of the top attractions in the earlier questions, so I won't rehash here—except to caution that you're not gonna see all the "must-sees" in one trip, and if you try you probably won't have a lot of fun. NY is indeed a great city for walking, meandering and spontaneity. Yeah, you've probably got to set foot in Times Square and Central Park but beyond that one of the best way to do it is to have a short list of things that sound fun and then sorta go with the flow and know what you might be able to group together in specific neighborhoods. Personally, I love Top of the Rock, the Met, MoMA, Central Park, the Brooklyn Bridge and Ellis Island. And maybe a little shopping in NoLiTa, a drink under the Old King Cole Mural at the St. Regis and a bag of three-for-$1 wedding cookies from City Bakery. But don't let anyone tell you your New York is any less than the next guy's. New York is a lot of things to a lot of people—and it's a whole lot of fun waking up every day finding out what more it has to offer. _______________________ Amy Langfield: And maybe that's a good way to wrap this chat up—on this fine February day when the city is celebrating the NY Giants Super Bowl championship with a ticker tape parade through the Canyon of Heroes. Never mind that they actually play in New Jersey, it's about the New York state of mind today, and hopefully that's where you all are if you've stuck with me this long. Thanks again for the great questions and taking part in this chat. If you want to see more of what I do, check out the NewYorkology Travel blog at Newyorkology.com. Cheers!