Buenos Aires: Essentials

December 9, 2005

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT

Airport Bus Service
011-54-11/4315-5115, tiendaleon.com.ar
Manuel Tienda León buses run between the international airport and the downtown Retiro station. Its kiosk is located inside Arrivals. Buses into the city leave every half hour until 9 p.m. (Call for the night schedule.) The ride takes 40 minutes. $8.70, one way.

Remises Taxis
Avoid the cabbies who holler at you, and go straight to a remises booth to book a car. Drivers take up to four people per car and operate on a flat rate. $20 for a ride to the city center.

GETTING AROUND

Bus
The bus, or collectivo, system is complicated and chaotic, so don't waste your time trying to figure it out if you're only in B.A. for a few days. Newspaper kiosks sell city-bus guides (Guias T) for 70¢. Buy your tickets onboard (28¢ per ride).

Subwaymetrovias.com.ar
Commonly referred to as the subte, this small subway network makes convenient tourist stops, including Plaza Serrano, the Bosques of Palermo, and Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo. It runs 5 a.m.-10:20 p.m., so it's not an option for late-night transportation. Ask for a free map (mapa) at any station. 24¢ per ride.

Taxis
Taxis are cheap and plentiful. To avoid hailing an unlicensed cab, look for a certified 'Radio Taxi' (written on the car doors). Available cars will have the 'Libre' sign lit in their front windows. Four people per taxi. Rides from $1. (If you need to call: Radio Taxi Ciudad, 011-54-11/4923-7007, radiotaxiciudad.com.ar)

WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN

At newsstands

 

  • Buenos Aires Heraldbuenosairesherald.com
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  • Time Out Buenos Aires, timeout.com/travel/buenosaires
  • TOURS

    Buenos Aires Outdoors
    011-54-11/4797-1143, buenosairesoutdoors.com.ar
    Low-impact outdoor tours, including day trips to Tigre, and to traditional ranches (see Escapes box on page 8). $50 for a half-day tour of the pampas (the provincial grasslands) and local ranches; includes horseback riding.

    Fall in Love With Buenos Aires
    011-54-11/4656-5714, fallinlovewithba.com
    Run by a couple with extensive experience, these historical walking tours put a refreshing emphasis on the porteño perspective. Pedro Porqueras's specialty: Recoleta Cemetery. His five-hour tour by minivan also includes a coffee break at the historic Café Tortoni. $10-$15/person for three-hour walking tour, $30-$50/person for van tour.

    Free city tours
    Buenos Aires Undersecretary of Tourism, 011-54-11/4114-5791, bue.gov.ar/recorridos
    Guided walking and bus tours. Themes are varied and include a good mix of neighborhoods and topics, such as "Notable bars of Recoleta" and "Eva Peron." English tours take place as indicated on the online schedule. Call the office for more information (in English). Space is limited on bus tours; call Mon.-Fri., 9 a.m.-1 p.m. to reserve. Free.

    La Bicicleta Naranja
    Pasaje Giuffra 308 (corner of Balcarce), 011-54-11/4362-1104, labicicletanaranja.com.ar
    Tours leave from San Telmo and focus on the southern or northern sections of B.A., or the riverbank and coastal grassy wetland Reserva Ecológica. Rentals include comfortable orange bikes with helmets, locks, storage bags, maps, and a drink. $19 for four hours with a guide.

    NUMBERS TO KNOW

     

  • Emergency Police 101, Fire 100, Medical Emergency 107
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  • Help in English Tourist Police Station, 0800-999-5000 (or 011-54-11/4346-5748)
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  • International operator 000, Directory info 110
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  • Tourist info 011-54-11/4312-7276 or 011-54-11/4313-5503 (Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-8 p.m.)
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  • Concert, theater, and sports tickets Ticketek, 011-54-11/5237-7200, ticketek.com.ar
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  • For local calls, drop the international access number (011), the country code (54), and the city code (11). All local numbers have eight digits.
  • FUNNY MONEY: HOW TO SPOT FAKE PESOS
    Counterfeit bills are common in B.A., so you should always exchange currency at a reputable place. But to detect phonies, hold the bill up to the light. If it's real

     

  • The ink on the denomination number will change colors.
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  • There will be a metallic thread woven into the border between the picture and white spaces.
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  • The portrait of the historical figure will be clear, not blurry.
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  • The paper will have the same feel as a US dollar bill.
  • Plan Your Next Getaway
    Keep reading

    Trip Coach: Dec. 7: Family Travel

    Candyce Stapen: Hi, I'm Candyce Stapen. One of my latest books is National Geographic Guide to Caribbean Family Vacations. I'm happy to be here and I'm taking questions now. Thanks. _______________________ Bend, OR: My three sisters and I are trying to plan a family reunion cruise for my dad's 60th birthday next June. Between our group, we have 10 adults, 5 children under 12, and will have 2 infants (due February and April). We are scattered throughout the country, so any port of departure would be fine as we will all travel to get there. Do you have any suggestions for a fun, affordable family cruise with something for all ages? Thanks, Michelle Candyce Stapen: Book the Caribbean. With its beaches, snorkeling, diving, kayaking, fishing, hiking, sailing, shopping, and cultural experiences, there's plenty for each age group. What concerns me is the age of the newborns. On most cruise lines, infants must be 4-6 months old in order to cruise. The minimum age on Carnival is 4-months. On Disney ships the minimum age is three months. Disney is a good bet because the line offers a nursery for infants 12 weeks -36 weeks. The hours vary and are limited, but it's a nice option to have. Space is limited so reserve ahead if interested. If the baby to be born in April will be coming aboard, you need to move the cruise to July or later. Also, before an infant can board the ship, you need to show proof of proper inoculations. _______________________ Currituck, NC: My passport expires the middle of February, and I am planning a trip to England for a week the middle of January. Will it be okay to wait until I get home to renew the passport, or do I have enough time to do it now? Also should I go through our Clerk of Court, or handle it myself? Thanks. Candyce Stapen: You should immediately renew your passport. Most countries require that your passport be valid for at least SIX months from your date of entry. That means you should consider your passport as already expired even though it technically is good through mid-February. The good news is that you can start the renewal process online by filling out forms. Click on travel.state.gov/passport Renewal fees are $67 and the process takes about two weeks. Because of the upcoming holidays, I suggest you pay the extra $60 for expedited service plus the overnight mailing costs. It will be worth the peace of mind in getting your new passport back in time for your trip. _______________________ Chapel Hill, NC: We (grandparents, parents and 5 grandchildren ages 7-14)are cruising to Alaska next July. What is the best way to chose shore excursions so that they appeal to the whole group OR is it better to split out and talk about our adventures at dinner? Candyce Stapen: An Alaskan cruise is a wonderful vacation that your family will remember forever. To make sure they think of this voyage fondly, don't try to do everything together, and that especially includes shore excursions. The teenagers may want to bike, hike or kayak while the parents and grandparents may want to visit a museum or stroll through town. In Skagway the ride on the White Pass and Yukon Railroad is suitable for all ages, the scenery is spectacular and the fee is relatively affordable. One beware about Alaska: To see the Alaska that's America's last wilderness, you need to get away from the cruise dock and get on float planes, helicopters, Zodiac rafts and kayaks, something that gets pricey, but is worth it in at least one port. _______________________ Minnetonka, MN: What about a cruise with a large family, but young children? We have 4 children ages 11, 9,7, and 5 so we really can't put them in thier own cabin, and my husband and I don't want to spend the cruise in separate rooms! Is there such a thing as a cabin that sleeps 6 that's not the President's suite? Candyce Stapen: Cruising makes for a great family vacation and there are several strategies for large families that don't want to pay for expensive suites. The least expensive option is to book two adjoining interior cabins. Some Carnival Cruise Lines' ships offer these cabins as do other lines. Disney Cruise Line, along with offering suites that sleep 7, has connecting staterooms and cabins that accommodate five people. NCL's new Pride of America offers family suites and NCL's Star and Dawn have cabins that fit up to five people as well as connecting cabins. Royal Caribbean's Voyager and Radiance class ships have family cabins that can fit six people, but there's still only one bathroom. _______________________ Boise, Idaho: I am planning a trip to Spain this summer, about 10 days in length, with my 15 year old daughter. We have divergent interests, & I want her to enjoy it as much as myself. I love museums & history. My area of interest is the Moorish influence, Granada, Cordoba, Seville, etc. (In St. Petersburg I chose a tour which gave me 3 days in the Hermitage.) Her tolerance for art museums is about an hour. My daughter rides & is very interested in anything horse related. She loves rodeos & thoroughbred racing. We both love biking & hiking. Could you help me plan an itinerary, or suggest tour companies that have families & not just seniors. Thanks for any ideas you can suggest! Kathy Candyce Stapen: Several companies offer guided family trips to Spain. These trips free you from the work of planning and getting around within the country on your own and offer the bonus of other children for yours to be with. However, at 15 your daughter won't want to be around ten-year-olds so check ahead and see if any parent and teen journeys are scheduled and also check to find out what are the ages of the other kids signed up. Companies to consider: Butterfield & Robinson, butterfield.com, Abercrombie & Kent, abercrombiekent.com. Cross Country International offers several horseback riding trips through Spain, but you need to be a good rider. Some trips include instruction. _______________________ Atlanta, GA: My family is spread out across the country: NYC, Dallas, Atlanta and Denver. We range in age from 4 to 67 years old and there are 9 of us. We need your help! We're thinking about meeting in Las Vegas but we have no idea how to figure out the best deal for hotel and flight, etc since we're all coming from different locations. How do you suggest we go about this? Thank you! Heidi Candyce Stapen: Check out the various flights and packages offered by booking engines such as Orbitz.com , Travelocity.com and Expedia.com. _______________________ Wapakoneta, Ohio: My husband and I have finally gotten all the kids out of the house. We have been saving for years for a dream trip to Alaska.We only have 3 weeks so we really don't have time to drive.How can we get the most bang for our buck? We would love to hear your ideas. Dave & Jan Candyce Stapen: An Alaskan cruise coupled with a pre or post land tour will enable you to see a good deal. Booking a voyage at the beginning or end of the summer season will save you some money. Shop around for deals. Check with the cruise lines as well as cruise-only tour agencies for the best rates. Because a cruise covers not only your lodging, but your food, entertainment and transportation between sightseeing ports, it's actually a good budget stretcher plus you get to go in style, something that all dream trips require. Couple your cruise with a land excursion to either Denali National Park or Denali State Park. Most ships depart from Seward, about 120 miles south of Anchorage. Plan to arrive early enough in Seward (or overnight there) so that you can day a day cruise to Kenai Fjords National Park. Because the ships that cruise here carry only about 150-passengers, you get much closer to the glaciers than you do on a big ship. As always in Alaska, bundle up. Wear layers, bring hats and gloves just in case and be prepared for rain. _______________________ toledo, ohio: I am trying to plan a family vacation for 8 adults and 7 grandchildren to Hawaii in December of 2006. I would like to fly to Hawaii and then take a cruise ship from island to island (probably a week). Are these cruises available and if so, what companies offer them Candyce Stapen: NCL America has three ships that sail the Hawaiian Islands: Pride of Hawaii, the newest ship, as well as Pride of America and the Pride of Aloha. All have children's programs and "free style dining," the ability to eat in different restaurants when you want instead of fixed seating dining. _______________________ Ft. Lauderdale, FL: We travel with our 12-year old son and we love Atlantis in the Bahamas because of all the activities and sights that appeal to all of us. What other resorts can you suggest that offer a diverse variety of activities; we do not use the supervised children's programs. Thanks! Candyce Stapen: You don't say whether you want to visit the Bahamas, the Caribbean, the U.S or another destination. Hawaii is a great place for families, especially for active 'tweens. On Maui you can bike down a volcano, on the Big Island you can tour Volcanoes National Park, and on Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island you can enjoy great beaches, as well as hike, swim, snorkel and find out about Hawaiian culture. On Maui, I recommend the Grand Wailea or the Hyatt Regency Maui. On Kauai, try the Grand Hyatt Kauai and on the Big Island, consider the Four Seasons Hualalai or the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. On Oahu, I like the Hilton Hawaiian Village. Another option: consider a family-friendly dude ranch. Along with riding, many ranches offer fly-fishing and hiking. Paradise Guest Ranch, Wyoming, and Rock Springs Guest Ranch, OR, are good ones for families. The Caribbean also has great resorts and island activities. The Westin St. John, USVI, puts you near the beautiful national park and there's always much to see and do in Puerto Rico. Consider the Hyatt Dorado. _______________________ Pittsburgh, PA: What are some tips on keeping expenses down when cruising with 4 children? I have 4 daughters (ages 22, 19, 17, and 16). The 2 oldest are in college with different breaks, the 2 youngest are in high school, soon to also be in collge. They don't need ships with a lot of bells and whistles (which seem to be more expensive) but like cruises with other kids their ages. Thanks Nancy Candyce Stapen: Good cruise choices for families with teens and twentysomethings include Carnival because it often attracts a "younger" crowd and the bigger ships on Royal Caribbean (RCI ) because their onboard activities such as ice skating, rock climbing and with the debut of the new ship, surfing. To keep costs down, look for family cabins that sleep 5 plus people. Some Carnival, RCI, NCL and Disney ships feature these. Also, consider booking two interior cabins. Check to see if you can get adjoining cabins. Another way to keep costs down is to do most shore tours on your own. Research ahead of time where you want to go and how to get there. Taking a taxi to an out-of-the-way but beautiful beach may be much less expensive than booking the ships' beach excursion for 5 -6 people. _______________________ West Lafayette, Indiana: Would you please compare the advantages of visiting Roatan and Utila, the Bay Islands of Honduras. Important to us are the ease of snorkeling access, how far to the reef from hotels, for instance; what else is there to do on the island besides dive, swim, and lie on the beach; are midpriced hotels equally available and livable? Candyce Stapen: Anthony's Key Resort on Roatan, along with offering dive boats, typically features a designated snorkel-only boat, an advantage for snorkel enthusiasts. Snorkeling, diving, and sunning are the prime activities. _______________________ Little Rock, AR: I am planning a safari trip to Africa, and was thinking of Tanzania, so my wife and I can see the serengetti. Are there companies you can recommend or any tips? I have been reviewing packages from 2Afrika, any feedback on that company? Candyce Stapen: I recommend Abercrombie & Kent. Although pricey, the lodges they choose are first --rate. Micato is also a good company. _______________________ San Jose, California: I have vacation for the ENTIRE month of February. We are a family of three, our son will be 4 years old, by then. We are looking to go somewhere warm and that would be FUN for the entire family. A cruise sounds good. Any ideas or places? MIA, MCO?? Thanks!! Jayne Candyce Stapen: Cruises are great family vacations, especially voyages in the Caribbean. Although the Mexican Riviera voyages are closer to your home, I find that destination less family-friendly. Disney, NCL, RCI and Carnival all offer wonderful kids' programs for kids your sons age. Miami and Fort Lauderdale have lots to offer as does the west coast of Florida around Naples and Ft. Myers. In Naples, consider the Naples Grand Resort & Club (formerly the Registry Resort). In Sanibel, try the Sanibel Harbour Resort & Spa. The Best Western Pelican Beach Resort is a new, family-friendly property in Fort Lauderdale _______________________ Toledo, Ohio: I have heard of a trip where you can be part of an archealogical dig... but I can 't find any information? Could you point me in the right direction? Thanks Candyce Stapen: Check out Crow Canyon Archeological Center in Colorado. _______________________ Portland, Oregon: HI, How do you find a good travel agent or tour company who will put together small group tours of appx. 10 t0 20 people to Ireland, Egypt,Japan and Peru? Thank you, Regards, Lynn Candyce Stapen: Adams & Butler organizes customized trips in Ireland, including creating itineraries, and arranging day outings and overnights at castles and country houses. 800-894-5712, www.irishluxury.com. Abercrombie & Kent, www.abercrombiekent, or Butterfield & Robinson, www.butterfield.com, can assist with some of those destinations. _______________________ Stamford, CT: My husband and two teen-age sons want to walk/hike through Switzerland next summer. Can you recommend any inexpensive tour guides or companies that offer inn to inn accommodations? Chris Candyce Stapen: Backroads offers a family biking and walking trip with lodging at "casual inns" to keep the costs down. However, the hiking is rated for ages 5 and older so check that the routes are challenging enough for your teens. Backroads as well as Butterfield & Robinson can arrange custom trips. _______________________ San Diego, CA: Hi Candyce My wife and I, along with my sister and brother in law (ages 29-32) are planning a trip to Peru (Cuzco and Machu Picchu). Our travel dates our flexible (June-August), flying from L.A. or San Diego. We only have about 8-9 days (including travel time); our interest is more in the cultural/historical, not so much the adventure travel, but would like some day hikes. Our budget is about $2000-2500 p/p including flight. Would you recommend planning the trip individually or get a tour package? Any tour operators you recommend? Thank you, Candyce Stapen: Sonesta Hotels and Resorts has properties in Peru. They can arrange multi-city bookings as well as outings. Compare their prices with those who get from a tour operator. _______________________ Belle Fourche, South Dakota: We would like to see the Grand Canyon this summer by car or possibly Amtrak. Where should we start and end what should we make sure not to miss? How much time should we allow. We would be interested in beginner white water rafting and other outdoor activities and moderately priced accommodations along the way. We have children that will be 18, 15, and 9 by the time we hope to go, around Memorial Day 2006 or June 2006. Thanks for your help. Clara Candyce Stapen: The GRand Canyon is a great trip and you are wise to plan ahead as summer is prime time. The park offers avariety of on site lodgings, but you should book these now. You can start in Flagstaff and take the historic Grand Canyon Railway trip to the South Rim if you are not planning on driving to the Grand Canyon. Good overlooks include Mather Point, the Yavapai Observation Station and Desert View. The Bright Angel Trail has afirst fountain and rest area about 1.5 miles down the canyon. You can rest there and continue or hike back out. Remember to conserve your energy because the way back is all uphill and you're tired. A number of companies offer multi-day raft trips. OARS (Outdoor Adventure River Specialists) is a good one. _______________________ cheyenne,wyoming: we want to take a trip to see pengiuns,,either those in south africa or ,,???? who is the best agency to do this thru?? Candyce Stapen: There are penguins in several locales. Your best bet is to contact a nature-oriented travel company. Try Wildland or Natural Habitat Adventures. _______________________ North Platte, NE: Not only is connecting with flights from a major airport a long drive, but also traveling alone including staying in any city in the world for business or vacationing alone has become potentially much more dangerous for professionals especially females. Once a carefree traveler and businesswoman, now my experiences with life have sent me into a cautionary spin which seems to keep me from enjoying the sane adventures and interesting vacations of the distant past of forty years ago. Believe it or not, my objective in the near future is to regain the old bravery without sacrificing common sense. How is traveling alone and staying in large cities and small towns around the globe poissible for an older lady by herself unarmed in this era? Would somehow obtaining a real guard dog be a help? Affiliating with a strange other adult female or male companion on a sign-up basis is absolutely out-f-the-question. New college roomies were difficult enough. Taking chances on predators trailing single travelers would be totally foolish. Candyce Stapen: You're quite right to be cautious when traveling alone, but don't let this prevent you from having an enjoyable trip. One answer would be to join the "solo" (not single)departures offered by several companies. I went on a Backroads "solo" walking trip through the Czech Republic with my sister a few years ago and had a great time. Two other adult sisters had signed up as well as single travelers of all ages. Also consider Elder Hostel trips. Group trips provide you with conversation and companionship at meals as well opportunities to spend time alone. Another option when you are in a big city is to splurge on a well-located, quality hotel. Contact the concierge ahead of time to find out about the services of a private, reputable guide for the day who can take you to attractions and provide insider information and history. I"ve done this in Rome and was happily surprised by the quality of the guide recommended. _______________________ King George, Virginia: Having read Diana Gabaldon's Outlander Novels, we are now eager to visit Scotland. What is the best time of year to visit Scotland? (We would like to avoid the annual Tattoo.) We are planning to fly from Washington to London and go by bus or car to Scotland, doing some sightseeing along the way. Thank you. Helmut Candyce Stapen: Summer is the best time of year to visit Scotland because it's warmer then, although it's never what we might call really warm. Last time I was there in July I needed to buy a hat, scarf and gloves because I didn't pack them. Once out of the major cities, the roads are not crowded and the scenery is beautiful. We drove through the Highlands and took a ferry to islands in the Hebrides. _______________________ Candyce Stapen: Thank you so much for your questions. I've enjoyed chatting with you. Happy travels, Candyce Stapen _______________________

    New York: Financial District

    SEE American Family Immigration History CenterInside the Ellis Island Immigration Museum, 212/561-4500, ellisislandrecords.orgFind out how deep your family roots grow, and search the manifests of ships that brought more than 22 million immigrants to Ellis Island between 1892 and 1924. Open daily, 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; $5 for half-hour genealogical searches. Ferry from Battery Park, $10. SEE Skyscraper Museum39 Battery Pl., on the ground floor of the Ritz-Carlton Battery Park Hotel, 212/968-1961, skyscraper.orgFittingly, this museum's new space was designed by one of the forefathers of modern architecture, the firm Skidmore, Owings & Merrill. Take a virtual tour of Lower Manhattan on the museum's website, and learn everything you ever wanted to know about tall buildings. Open Wed.-Sun., noon-6 p.m.; $5 for adults, free for kids under 12. Pop into the Ritz-Carlton's Rise bar afterward for drinks and stellar harbor views. SEE Tribute Visitors' Center (opening spring 2006)120 Liberty St., 911wvfa.org, projectrebirth.orgThe official visitors' center for Ground Zero. The multimillion-dollar, 6,000-square-foot space will feature guided tours, multimedia kiosks, and a range of exhibits related to the terrorist attacks and their victims. EAT Alfanoose8 Maiden Ln., 212/528-4669, alfanoose.com An impeccable no-frills Lebanese-Syrian joint that has, quite possibly, the best falafel in town. The spicy veggie moussaka and kibbeh (made with Swiss chard and mint) are nothing to sniff at either. Be forewarned: The shop has literally three stools. Closed Sun. EAT Bridge Café 279 Water St., 212/227-3344, bridgecafe.citysearch.comThis red clapboard building is not only the city's oldest drinking establishment (open since 1794), but it also houses an excellent restaurant. Soak up the history (and beer) while you nibble on corn-and-red-onion fritters or crispy fried oysters. EAT Niko Niko80 Wall St., 212/232-0152, nikonikony.comForget the California rolls: It's all about the over-rice (don) dishes. For less than $5, you get a heaping plate of rice with your choice of delicious toppings, such as teriyaki-glazed eel, succulent pork, and Korean bibim bop. Closed Sat. and Sun. SPLURGE Bayard's1 Hanover Sq., 212/514-9454, bayards.comSeasonal cuisine from lauded French-trained chefs is served amid Old World luxe inside the 1851 India House (formerly the New York Cotton Exchange). Even with a stellar wine list, it remains under the radar. Closed Sun. DRINK Ulysses'58 Stone St., 212/482-0400, ulyssesbarnyc.comA stylish, book-themed boîte where you can take your pick of quiet corners to enjoy a pint or two-except after 5 p.m. on Thursday nights, when the bar is packed wall-to-wall with suited traders. SHOP Bowne & Co. Stationers211 Water St., 212/748-8651A charming gas-lit stationer that has been in the printing business since 1775. Its specialty is custom letterpress work, but you can also pick up old-fashioned notecards and postcards printed on Victorian presses. Closed Mon. SAMPLE SALE TIPS   Sign up for mailing lists to get invitations to private presales. We like DailyCandy.com's list.   Sample sales are held in season: Sales on fall and winter merchandise, for example, are generally held from September through November, so you can walk out wearing your finds.   Cash is the preferred method of payment.   Get there early for the best selection, and avoid shopping during lunch hours.   Try things on if you can. Sometimes a strange fit is the reason the garment is on sale. Dress for easy access with slip-on shoes and no-fuss wear.   Most sales are final, so be sure to inspect the merchandise closely!

    New York: Sleep

    FINANCIAL DISTRICT / TRIBECA Cosmopolitan Hotel95 W. Broadway, 888/895-9400, cosmohotel.comOffers 120 smartly decorated, squeaky-clean rooms in an area of town sorely lacking in affordable, nonbusiness hotels. Service reviews are mixed, but who cares when you roll out of bed into the city's hottest hangouts? Doubles from $119. WEST VILLAGE Abingdon Guest House 13 Eighth Ave., 212/243-5384, abingdonguesthouse.comComprised of two homey 1850s town houses, this colorfully painted spot has either private or en suite bathrooms, and many rooms have nonworking fireplaces. Light sleepers should avoid rooms facing Eighth Ave. Check-in is at Brewbar Cafe, the coffeehouse downstairs. Doubles from $159. EAST VILLAGE Second Home on Second Avenue  221 Second Ave., 212/677-3161, secondhome.citysearch.comDon't be put off by the shabby facade of this 1900s town house-fun, even tastefully, appointed accommodations with soundproof windows lie inside. Choose from themed rooms-tribal, modern, Caribbean, and Peruvian. (The owner's from Peru.) Second-floor yoga classes are $20. Doubles from $90. UNION SQUARE / GRAMERCY Hotel 17225 E. 17th St., 212/475-2845, hotel17ny.comFriendly service and its location on leafy (and quiet) Stuyvesant Square Park sets this hotel apart. Perhaps you'll recognize the rooms from Woody Allen's silly film Manhattan Murder Mystery. Doubles from $79. CHELSEA The Chelsea Lodge318 W. 20th St., 800/373-1116, chelsealodge.comThis renovated European-style hotel in the heart of Chelsea has 22 rooms filled with American antiques and eclectic accents. One warning: Rooms have sinks and showers, but no WCs. Book far in advance. From $95. MIDTOWN EAST The Pickwick Arms 230 E. 51st St., 800/742-5945, pickwickarms.comThis beloved Midtown standby just got a face-lift and earns consistently high marks for its professional service, rates, and location. Pack light-rooms are small and some have shared baths, but you can always get some air on the rooftop garden. Doubles from $149. MIDTOWN WEST Ameritania230 W. 54th St., 888/664-6835, nychotels.comChic, comfortable, and quite possibly the best hotel value in Gotham. Extra niceties include Belgian linens, on-demand movies, and a hopping lobby bar. Doubles from $165. MIDTOWN WEST Hotel QT 125 W. 45th St., 212/354-2323, hotelqt.com Steps from Times Square, the latest property from hotelier wunderkind Andre Balazs. Attractively minimalist rooms with flat-screen TVs. And its lobby bar has a swimming pool-really! From $150. UPPER EAST SIDE Bentley Hotel 500 E. 62nd St., 212/644-6000, nychotels.comA sister property to the Ameritania, this modern hotel is decked out in neutral tones, and delivers stylish comfort. Its library, rooftop restaurant with good skyline views, and proximity to Bloomies are big pluses. Doubles from $165. UPPER WEST SIDE Country Inn the City 270 W. 77th St., 212/580-4183, countryinnthecity.comNo, you're not in the Cotswolds, but this English-inspired inn might transport you. Country antiques, four-poster beds, and hunting-lodge accents sing with Old World charm. Downsides are no credit cards and its three-day minimum stay. Reservations only. Doubles from $150. UPPER WEST SIDE Jazz on the Park36 W. 106th St., 212/932-1600, jazzonthepark.comA funky hostel-inn run by a hands-on international crew who put on summer BBQs. Linens, lockers, and laundry facilities provided. Dorm rooms from $25/night, private rooms from $75. SPLURGE Hotel on Rivington107 Rivington St., 212/475-2600, hotelonrivington.com The brainchild of Surface magazine and a United Nations of industrial and interior designers, this ultrafab hotel is the first high-rise (and hotel you'd actually want to stay in) on the Lower East Side, which means 360-degree views from every glass-walled room. Guests coo about the deep egg-shaped Japanese-style soaking tubs. Doubles from $255. TIP Hoofing it in NYC: It takes the average person one minute to walk one "short" (north-south) block, and two minutes to walk one "long block" (east-west) in Manhattan. Do the math.

    New York: Essentials

    TO / FROM THE AIRPORT New York Airport Service212/875-8200, nyairportservice.comShuttle bus between Manhattan (Grand Central Terminal, Port Authority, and Penn Station) and LaGuardia is $12 one way, $21 round trip; JFK is $15/$27. Departs approximately every 30 minutes. There's also a shuttle link between JFK and LaGuardia 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m., $13 each way. Newark Liberty Airport Express Bus Service(Olympia Trails), olympiabus.comShuttle bus transportation from Newark is $13 one way, $22 round trip. Departs every 30 minutes for stops at Penn Station, Grand Central, and Port Authority. AirTrain panynj.gov/airtrainFollow signs at JFK and Newark for connections into the city. Trains run every 10 minutes. Fare to/from JFK is $5, which must be purchased on a MetroCard. Trains stop at connecting subway stations, so add another $2 for subway fare. If coming from JFK, use the MetroCard machine at the train-subway transfer. Rides to/from Newark are free to/from the Newark Rail Link Station, where you get NJ Transit, which takes you to/from Penn Station for $11.55. Trains leave every 30 minutes. GETTING AROUND Subway & Bus mta.nyc.ny.us $2 flat fare; MetroCards available at subway station kiosks. A daily "Fun Pass" is $7; a seven-day pass is $21. Ask for map at booth. Single-use free transfer available if going from bus to bus, bus to subway, or subway to bus. Ask for transfer ticket from bus driver if using change instead of MetroCard. Taxis Initial fare: $2.50; 40¢ each 1?5 mile or for each 90 seconds stopped in traffic. Add 50¢ for rides after 8 p.m.; add $1 Mon.-Fri. from 4 p.m.-8 p.m. Taxis take up to four passengers. PedicabsAverage rate: $1 per minute; operate evenings and weekends. Licensed "peddlers" only. Staten Island Ferry718/390-5253, siferry.comFree; 25-minute ride between Whitehall St. in Lower Manhattan and St. George Terminal on Staten Island. Awesome views of N.Y. Harbor, the skyline, and Lady Liberty. New York Water Taxi212/742-1969, newyorkwatertaxi.comA double-decker, high-speed catamaran that makes 10 stops in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens, including Chelsea Piers, Christopher St., and South St. Seaport. $5 for single rides, $20 for two-day hop-on/hop-off ticket. Hoofing it in NYC It takes the average person one minute to walk one "short" (north-south) block, and two minutes to walk one "long block" (east-west) in Manhattan. Do the math. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN Free on the Street The Village Voice or New York Press At Newsstands   Time Out New York, timeout.com   New York Magazine, nymetro.com   The New Yorker, newyorker.com TOURS Big Onion Walking Tours212/439-1090, bigonion.com Lively, informed historic- and ethnic-themed tours led by guides with advanced degrees in history. Check online calendar or call for meeting spots. Adults $15, seniors $12, and students $10. No reservations required; schedule subject to change in case of inclement weather. Municipal Art Society of NY Tours212/935-3960, mas.org/events/tours.cfmExpert in-depth exploration of city architecture. Weekday walking tours $12; weekend walking/bus combo tour $15. Free tours of Grand Central Terminal only depart Wed. at 12:30 p.m. from the information booth in the Main Concourse. Nosh Walks212/222-2243, noshwalks.comTaste your way from Odessa to Bombay. Most tours are $20 and do not include the cost of food. Sat.-Sun. only. Radical Walking Tours 718/492-0069, radicalwalkingtours.orgSee NYC through the eyes of anarchists, revolutionaries, and good old-fashioned hell-raisers. Summer schedule suspended; call for upcoming tours. $10 per tour. Gray Line New York800/669-0051, graylinenewyork.comFare is $49 for a two-day hop-on/hop-off tour by double-decker bus. Makes 42 stops in all. All tickets must be purchased online, by phone, or at the official start location, 777 8th Ave. at W. 47th St. Pioneer Sailings From South Street Seaport Museum212/748-8786, southstseaport.org Schooner sailing tours of N.Y. Harbor beat the popular but noisy Circle Line any day. $30. Daily sailings May-Sept.; call for times. NUMBERS TO KNOW   Movies Moviefone, 212/777-FILM, moviefone.com   Theater Telecharge, 212/239-6200, telecharge.com   Sports & concert tickets Ticketmaster, 212/307-7171, ticketmaster.com   Directory information 411   Emergencies Police and Fire Departments, 911   Complaints, non-emergencies NYC citizen service line, 311   Mayor's Office for People With Disabilities 212/788-2830