Buenos Aires: Microcentro

December 9, 2005

The business and banking center of the city, with a bustling downtown atmosphere. Because it's also the national nexus for demonstrators from around the country, protests are common.

SEE

Centro Cultural Borges
Calle Viamonte and Calle San Martin, 011-54-11/5555-5359, ccborges.org.ar
Art exhibitions, independent films, and musical shows featuring everything from rock to flamenco fill the calendar at this eight-year-old center. It's located in the same 1896 building as the Galerías Pacífico, an upscale mall. (See listing below.) Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sun. 12 p.m.-9 p.m. Entrance to exhibits $1.

SEE

Manzana de las Luces (Block of Enlightenment)
Calle Perú 272, 011-54-11/4342-6973, manzanadelasluces.gov.ar
A block of buildings that form what was historically the intellectual center of Buenos Aires. A network of tunnels connects different sites, including the Jesuit Iglesia de San Ignacio (built in 1675), an elite high school, and a reconstruction of the original Sala de Representantes, Argentina's first legislature.

EAT

Café Tortoni
Avenida de Mayo 829, 011-54-11/4342-4328, cafetortoni.com.ar
A porteño institution. If you can ignore the outlandish prices and throngs of tourists, you can almost imagine yourself sipping coffee with literati at the dawn of the 1900s. Founded in 1858, it's Parisian to the core with marble tabletops, wood paneling, pillars, and brusque male waiters. A visit is well worth the price of a café con leche, $1.50.

EAT

El Claustro
Calle San Martin 705, 011-54-11/4312-0235, santacatalina.org.ar/Restaurant.htm
The menu features enormous, ridiculously cheap portions of basic porteño fare such as grilled meat and chicken. Ask for the traditional chimichurri sauce-made from olive oil, garlic, basil, thyme, oregano, and chili-to accompany your meats. The real draw here is the outdoor seating, on the patio of the Santa Catalina Convent (built in 1745), with its white colonial arches and lush palm trees. Service can be slow. Open for lunch only.

EAT

Sabot
Calle 25 de Mayo 756, 011-54-11/4313-6587
Excellent well-priced porteño food in an upscale B.A. dining hall with austere dark wood-paneled walls and white tablecloths. Its specialty is the tender cabrito al horno (roast baby goat). It's popular with the business crowd, so make a reservavation. Closed Sat. and Sun.

EAT

Vasco Frances
Calle Moreno 1370, 011-54-11/4381-5415
Seafood specialties have been flying out of the kitchen at this classic salon-style restaurant tucked into the Basque French Center for 110 years. Try the arroz negro Vasco Frances-black rice (tinted with squid ink), lobster, and mussels. A full meal runs $15.

DRINK

La Cigale
Calle 25 de Mayo 722, 011-54-11/4312-8275
A French-owned favorite with B.A.'s young after-work crowd. The très dark bar features DJs and/or live music on weeknights. Tuesdays are dedicated to French-accented house and dance tunes. Ask about the daily drink specials. No cover.

SHOP

Calle Florida
There's a Hong Kong-meets-Lima feeling on this chaotic pedestrian shopping street/outdoor mall, where the main focus is footwear (all styles). Clothing, book, and music stores are interspersed among the plentiful shoe shops. Warning: Don't get lured by the aggressive people selling leather jackets; save your pennies for cheaper "leather alley," as Calle Murillo is known.

SHOP

La Librería de Avila
Calle Adolfo Alsina 500, 011-54-11/4331-8989, libreriadeavila.servisur.com
B.A.'s oldest bookstore, dating from 1785. A vast collection of new and used titles, in Spanish and other languages, specializes in Argentinean history. Its jumbled, dusty veneer gives it character, and its many chairs invite lingering.

SHOP

Winery
Avenida Corrientes 302, 011-54-11/4394-2200, winery.com.ar
A high-end chain of wine stores. The knowledgeable staff will even pack your bottles for travel. The best part: You don't have to spend more than 30 pesos ($10) for a fine Argentinean wine-try a malbec or a torrontes.

SPLURGE

Galerías Pacífico
Calle Florida at Avenida Córdoba, 011-54-11/5555-5110, galeriaspacifico.com.ar
The Sistine Chapel of shopping malls. Murals by artists such as Antonio Berni adorn the cupola of this majestic 1896 building. You'll find brand names such from Levi Strauss & Co. to Yves Saint Laurent, but it's more interesting to see which local brands catch your eye. Check out Akiabara for sophisticated, hip women's wear, or Portsaid for an ultra-feminine look.

PLAY

Cinemas on Calle Lavalle
Step into the past at one of these cinemas, just west of Calle Florida. Modern movie complexes are now a dime a dozen in B.A., but the older cinemas have quaint fold-down seats and concession vendors who hawk popcorn and chocolate from trays slung around their necks. You'll also see high, rounded ceilings and grand balconies from the bygone days. Hollywood movies have Spanish subtitles. $2.40.

Plan Your Next Getaway
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Buenos Aires: Sleep

CONGRESO Casa MontserratCalle Salta 1074, 011-54-11/4304-8798, casa-monserrat.comDating from the 1870s, this house has a beautiful courtyard garden; interiors highlight the building's colonial grandeur-antique tile work, fresco paintings, and a stone fireplace. All five bedrooms have en suite bathrooms. Doubles from $52, includes breakfast and airport pickup. MICROCENTRO Hotel CastelarAvenida de Mayo 1152, 011-54-11/4383-5000, castelarhotel.com.arLocated on the historic Avenida de Mayo, Castelar's claim to fame is that Spanish poet Federico García Lorca lived there in 1933. The charm of the exterior and public lounges eclipses the rooms, which are comfortable, with heavy drapes and charming, light-filled en suite bathrooms, but otherwise basic. Rates include breakfast and access to the on-site spa's sauna and steam baths. A half-hour massage is just $11. Doubles from $68, triples from $85. MICROCENTRO NH Jousten HotelAvenida Corrientes 280, 011-54-11/4321-6750, nh-hotels.comA 1920s-style hotel with art deco detailing that enjoys an ultra-central location. Large, ornate headboards, unusual four-legged room lamps, and a soft sandy color scheme contrast with the overall minimalist motif. Ask for a window-filled corner room for the most-and best-views. Doubles from $111, includes continental buffet breakfast. PALERMO 1555 Malabia House Calle Malabia 1555, 011-54-11/4833-2410, malabiahouse.com.arAn upscale, self-described "design bed-and-breakfast" that combines hotel comfort with neighborhood authenticity. Most of the 15 bright, spacious rooms come with A/C and en suite bathrooms, and display a modern decorator's touch-neutral colors, animal-skin throw rugs, and whimsical wall frescoes. Its reading rooms and communal greenery-filled patio make calming city oases. Doubles from $105. PALERMO Bo Bo HotelCalle Guatemala 4882, 011-54-11/4774-0505, bobohotel.com Six of the seven rooms in this 1920 mansion are themed to modern art movements. The Minimalist Room has ecru walls and white bedspreads; the Pop Room references the 1960s with a plastic orange chair and a photo of a Ford Falcon. Each morning, a free breakfast of croissants, yogurt, and café con leche is served in the on-site restaurant. Free Wi-Fi throughout hotel. Doubles from $80. PALERMO Posada Palermo Bed-and-BreakfastCalle Salguero 1655, 011-54-11/4826-8792, posadapalermo.comIn one of Palermo's rapidly disappearing old stone houses. Run by an architect, this cozy, cultured home has mismatched rugs, multi-colored walls, loads of artwork, and three resident cats. There is A/C, cable TV, Internet access, and en suite baths in each of the four rooms. Doubles from $60, includes breakfast. PALERMO Solar Soler Bed-and-BreakfastCalle Soler 5676, 011-54-11/4776-3065, solarsoler.com.arA recently remodeled home with spare, modern accommodations featuring hardwood floors and white bedcovers accented by colorful regional woven pillows and blankets. Each of the seven rooms has cable TV, A/C, and a bathroom en suite. Cozy up by the fireplace in the living room, or eat your breakfast on the sunny patio. Doubles from $47. RECOLETA Hotel Bel AirCalle Arenales 1462, 011-54-11/4021-4000, hotelbelair.com.arThe elegant white facade of this small hotel suggests five-star glamour, but on the inside the comfortable rooms are relatively basic. However, the amenities give it an edge: A/C, cable TV, minibar, and gym. Doubles from $110, includes breakfast. RECOLETA Hotel Lion D'orJosé A. Pacheco de Melo 2019, 011-54-11/4803-8992, hotel-liondor.com.arRooms are no-frills, but have old-world character-bulky armoires, moldings, and old-fashioned high-arched windows-which gives this small hotel some charm. While there's no A/C, there are ceiling fans to cool you off in summer months. Every room comes with cable TV and central heating. Doubles from $38. RECOLETA Recoleta GuesthouseCalle Laprida 1821, 011-54-11/4803-5474, recoletaguesthouse.comA gracious Tudor-style brick guesthouse in a historically ritzy neighborhood. Its defining attribute is the personal attention given by the chatty and informative Cossovich family, who make you feel right at home. Rooms are simple, with whitewashed walls, colorful woven blankets, and oak floors. All have en suite bathrooms. Doubles from $40, includes breakfast. SPLURGE Park Château Kempinski Hotel Calle Talcahuano 1253, 011-54-11/6777-0400, parkplazahotels.com/chateau This gorgeous boutique hotel has antique furniture from various eras, and Persian rugs span the hallways. The ample, regal rooms have large, inviting beds framed by brass headboards. Reasonably priced decadence. Doubles from $127.

Buenos Aires: Essentials

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT Airport Bus Service 011-54-11/4315-5115, tiendaleon.com.ar Manuel Tienda León buses run between the international airport and the downtown Retiro station. Its kiosk is located inside Arrivals. Buses into the city leave every half hour until 9 p.m. (Call for the night schedule.) The ride takes 40 minutes. $8.70, one way. Remises TaxisAvoid the cabbies who holler at you, and go straight to a remises booth to book a car. Drivers take up to four people per car and operate on a flat rate. $20 for a ride to the city center. GETTING AROUND BusThe bus, or collectivo, system is complicated and chaotic, so don't waste your time trying to figure it out if you're only in B.A. for a few days. Newspaper kiosks sell city-bus guides (Guias T) for 70¢. Buy your tickets onboard (28¢ per ride). Subwaymetrovias.com.ar Commonly referred to as the subte, this small subway network makes convenient tourist stops, including Plaza Serrano, the Bosques of Palermo, and Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo. It runs 5 a.m.-10:20 p.m., so it's not an option for late-night transportation. Ask for a free map (mapa) at any station. 24¢ per ride. TaxisTaxis are cheap and plentiful. To avoid hailing an unlicensed cab, look for a certified 'Radio Taxi' (written on the car doors). Available cars will have the 'Libre' sign lit in their front windows. Four people per taxi. Rides from $1. (If you need to call: Radio Taxi Ciudad, 011-54-11/4923-7007, radiotaxiciudad.com.ar) WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN At newsstands   Buenos Aires Herald, buenosairesherald.com   Time Out Buenos Aires, timeout.com/travel/buenosaires TOURS Buenos Aires Outdoors011-54-11/4797-1143, buenosairesoutdoors.com.arLow-impact outdoor tours, including day trips to Tigre, and to traditional ranches (see Escapes box on page 8). $50 for a half-day tour of the pampas (the provincial grasslands) and local ranches; includes horseback riding. Fall in Love With Buenos Aires011-54-11/4656-5714, fallinlovewithba.comRun by a couple with extensive experience, these historical walking tours put a refreshing emphasis on the porteño perspective. Pedro Porqueras's specialty: Recoleta Cemetery. His five-hour tour by minivan also includes a coffee break at the historic Café Tortoni. $10-$15/person for three-hour walking tour, $30-$50/person for van tour. Free city tours Buenos Aires Undersecretary of Tourism, 011-54-11/4114-5791, bue.gov.ar/recorridosGuided walking and bus tours. Themes are varied and include a good mix of neighborhoods and topics, such as "Notable bars of Recoleta" and "Eva Peron." English tours take place as indicated on the online schedule. Call the office for more information (in English). Space is limited on bus tours; call Mon.-Fri., 9 a.m.-1 p.m. to reserve. Free. La Bicicleta Naranja Pasaje Giuffra 308 (corner of Balcarce), 011-54-11/4362-1104, labicicletanaranja.com.arTours leave from San Telmo and focus on the southern or northern sections of B.A., or the riverbank and coastal grassy wetland Reserva Ecológica. Rentals include comfortable orange bikes with helmets, locks, storage bags, maps, and a drink. $19 for four hours with a guide. NUMBERS TO KNOW   Emergency Police 101, Fire 100, Medical Emergency 107   Help in English Tourist Police Station, 0800-999-5000 (or 011-54-11/4346-5748)   International operator 000, Directory info 110   Tourist info 011-54-11/4312-7276 or 011-54-11/4313-5503 (Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-8 p.m.)   Concert, theater, and sports tickets Ticketek, 011-54-11/5237-7200, ticketek.com.ar   For local calls, drop the international access number (011), the country code (54), and the city code (11). All local numbers have eight digits. FUNNY MONEY: HOW TO SPOT FAKE PESOS Counterfeit bills are common in B.A., so you should always exchange currency at a reputable place. But to detect phonies, hold the bill up to the light. If it's real   The ink on the denomination number will change colors.   There will be a metallic thread woven into the border between the picture and white spaces.   The portrait of the historical figure will be clear, not blurry.   The paper will have the same feel as a US dollar bill.

Trip Coach: Dec. 7: Family Travel

Candyce Stapen: Hi, I'm Candyce Stapen. One of my latest books is National Geographic Guide to Caribbean Family Vacations. I'm happy to be here and I'm taking questions now. Thanks. _______________________ Bend, OR: My three sisters and I are trying to plan a family reunion cruise for my dad's 60th birthday next June. Between our group, we have 10 adults, 5 children under 12, and will have 2 infants (due February and April). We are scattered throughout the country, so any port of departure would be fine as we will all travel to get there. Do you have any suggestions for a fun, affordable family cruise with something for all ages? Thanks, Michelle Candyce Stapen: Book the Caribbean. With its beaches, snorkeling, diving, kayaking, fishing, hiking, sailing, shopping, and cultural experiences, there's plenty for each age group. What concerns me is the age of the newborns. On most cruise lines, infants must be 4-6 months old in order to cruise. The minimum age on Carnival is 4-months. On Disney ships the minimum age is three months. Disney is a good bet because the line offers a nursery for infants 12 weeks -36 weeks. The hours vary and are limited, but it's a nice option to have. Space is limited so reserve ahead if interested. If the baby to be born in April will be coming aboard, you need to move the cruise to July or later. Also, before an infant can board the ship, you need to show proof of proper inoculations. _______________________ Currituck, NC: My passport expires the middle of February, and I am planning a trip to England for a week the middle of January. Will it be okay to wait until I get home to renew the passport, or do I have enough time to do it now? Also should I go through our Clerk of Court, or handle it myself? Thanks. Candyce Stapen: You should immediately renew your passport. Most countries require that your passport be valid for at least SIX months from your date of entry. That means you should consider your passport as already expired even though it technically is good through mid-February. The good news is that you can start the renewal process online by filling out forms. Click on travel.state.gov/passport Renewal fees are $67 and the process takes about two weeks. Because of the upcoming holidays, I suggest you pay the extra $60 for expedited service plus the overnight mailing costs. It will be worth the peace of mind in getting your new passport back in time for your trip. _______________________ Chapel Hill, NC: We (grandparents, parents and 5 grandchildren ages 7-14)are cruising to Alaska next July. What is the best way to chose shore excursions so that they appeal to the whole group OR is it better to split out and talk about our adventures at dinner? Candyce Stapen: An Alaskan cruise is a wonderful vacation that your family will remember forever. To make sure they think of this voyage fondly, don't try to do everything together, and that especially includes shore excursions. The teenagers may want to bike, hike or kayak while the parents and grandparents may want to visit a museum or stroll through town. In Skagway the ride on the White Pass and Yukon Railroad is suitable for all ages, the scenery is spectacular and the fee is relatively affordable. One beware about Alaska: To see the Alaska that's America's last wilderness, you need to get away from the cruise dock and get on float planes, helicopters, Zodiac rafts and kayaks, something that gets pricey, but is worth it in at least one port. _______________________ Minnetonka, MN: What about a cruise with a large family, but young children? We have 4 children ages 11, 9,7, and 5 so we really can't put them in thier own cabin, and my husband and I don't want to spend the cruise in separate rooms! Is there such a thing as a cabin that sleeps 6 that's not the President's suite? Candyce Stapen: Cruising makes for a great family vacation and there are several strategies for large families that don't want to pay for expensive suites. The least expensive option is to book two adjoining interior cabins. Some Carnival Cruise Lines' ships offer these cabins as do other lines. Disney Cruise Line, along with offering suites that sleep 7, has connecting staterooms and cabins that accommodate five people. NCL's new Pride of America offers family suites and NCL's Star and Dawn have cabins that fit up to five people as well as connecting cabins. Royal Caribbean's Voyager and Radiance class ships have family cabins that can fit six people, but there's still only one bathroom. _______________________ Boise, Idaho: I am planning a trip to Spain this summer, about 10 days in length, with my 15 year old daughter. We have divergent interests, & I want her to enjoy it as much as myself. I love museums & history. My area of interest is the Moorish influence, Granada, Cordoba, Seville, etc. (In St. Petersburg I chose a tour which gave me 3 days in the Hermitage.) Her tolerance for art museums is about an hour. My daughter rides & is very interested in anything horse related. She loves rodeos & thoroughbred racing. We both love biking & hiking. Could you help me plan an itinerary, or suggest tour companies that have families & not just seniors. Thanks for any ideas you can suggest! Kathy Candyce Stapen: Several companies offer guided family trips to Spain. These trips free you from the work of planning and getting around within the country on your own and offer the bonus of other children for yours to be with. However, at 15 your daughter won't want to be around ten-year-olds so check ahead and see if any parent and teen journeys are scheduled and also check to find out what are the ages of the other kids signed up. Companies to consider: Butterfield & Robinson, butterfield.com, Abercrombie & Kent, abercrombiekent.com. Cross Country International offers several horseback riding trips through Spain, but you need to be a good rider. Some trips include instruction. _______________________ Atlanta, GA: My family is spread out across the country: NYC, Dallas, Atlanta and Denver. We range in age from 4 to 67 years old and there are 9 of us. We need your help! We're thinking about meeting in Las Vegas but we have no idea how to figure out the best deal for hotel and flight, etc since we're all coming from different locations. How do you suggest we go about this? Thank you! Heidi Candyce Stapen: Check out the various flights and packages offered by booking engines such as Orbitz.com , Travelocity.com and Expedia.com. _______________________ Wapakoneta, Ohio: My husband and I have finally gotten all the kids out of the house. We have been saving for years for a dream trip to Alaska.We only have 3 weeks so we really don't have time to drive.How can we get the most bang for our buck? We would love to hear your ideas. Dave & Jan Candyce Stapen: An Alaskan cruise coupled with a pre or post land tour will enable you to see a good deal. Booking a voyage at the beginning or end of the summer season will save you some money. Shop around for deals. Check with the cruise lines as well as cruise-only tour agencies for the best rates. Because a cruise covers not only your lodging, but your food, entertainment and transportation between sightseeing ports, it's actually a good budget stretcher plus you get to go in style, something that all dream trips require. Couple your cruise with a land excursion to either Denali National Park or Denali State Park. Most ships depart from Seward, about 120 miles south of Anchorage. Plan to arrive early enough in Seward (or overnight there) so that you can day a day cruise to Kenai Fjords National Park. Because the ships that cruise here carry only about 150-passengers, you get much closer to the glaciers than you do on a big ship. As always in Alaska, bundle up. Wear layers, bring hats and gloves just in case and be prepared for rain. _______________________ toledo, ohio: I am trying to plan a family vacation for 8 adults and 7 grandchildren to Hawaii in December of 2006. I would like to fly to Hawaii and then take a cruise ship from island to island (probably a week). Are these cruises available and if so, what companies offer them Candyce Stapen: NCL America has three ships that sail the Hawaiian Islands: Pride of Hawaii, the newest ship, as well as Pride of America and the Pride of Aloha. All have children's programs and "free style dining," the ability to eat in different restaurants when you want instead of fixed seating dining. _______________________ Ft. Lauderdale, FL: We travel with our 12-year old son and we love Atlantis in the Bahamas because of all the activities and sights that appeal to all of us. What other resorts can you suggest that offer a diverse variety of activities; we do not use the supervised children's programs. Thanks! Candyce Stapen: You don't say whether you want to visit the Bahamas, the Caribbean, the U.S or another destination. Hawaii is a great place for families, especially for active 'tweens. On Maui you can bike down a volcano, on the Big Island you can tour Volcanoes National Park, and on Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island you can enjoy great beaches, as well as hike, swim, snorkel and find out about Hawaiian culture. On Maui, I recommend the Grand Wailea or the Hyatt Regency Maui. On Kauai, try the Grand Hyatt Kauai and on the Big Island, consider the Four Seasons Hualalai or the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. On Oahu, I like the Hilton Hawaiian Village. Another option: consider a family-friendly dude ranch. Along with riding, many ranches offer fly-fishing and hiking. Paradise Guest Ranch, Wyoming, and Rock Springs Guest Ranch, OR, are good ones for families. The Caribbean also has great resorts and island activities. The Westin St. John, USVI, puts you near the beautiful national park and there's always much to see and do in Puerto Rico. Consider the Hyatt Dorado. _______________________ Pittsburgh, PA: What are some tips on keeping expenses down when cruising with 4 children? I have 4 daughters (ages 22, 19, 17, and 16). The 2 oldest are in college with different breaks, the 2 youngest are in high school, soon to also be in collge. They don't need ships with a lot of bells and whistles (which seem to be more expensive) but like cruises with other kids their ages. Thanks Nancy Candyce Stapen: Good cruise choices for families with teens and twentysomethings include Carnival because it often attracts a "younger" crowd and the bigger ships on Royal Caribbean (RCI ) because their onboard activities such as ice skating, rock climbing and with the debut of the new ship, surfing. To keep costs down, look for family cabins that sleep 5 plus people. Some Carnival, RCI, NCL and Disney ships feature these. Also, consider booking two interior cabins. Check to see if you can get adjoining cabins. Another way to keep costs down is to do most shore tours on your own. Research ahead of time where you want to go and how to get there. Taking a taxi to an out-of-the-way but beautiful beach may be much less expensive than booking the ships' beach excursion for 5 -6 people. _______________________ West Lafayette, Indiana: Would you please compare the advantages of visiting Roatan and Utila, the Bay Islands of Honduras. Important to us are the ease of snorkeling access, how far to the reef from hotels, for instance; what else is there to do on the island besides dive, swim, and lie on the beach; are midpriced hotels equally available and livable? Candyce Stapen: Anthony's Key Resort on Roatan, along with offering dive boats, typically features a designated snorkel-only boat, an advantage for snorkel enthusiasts. Snorkeling, diving, and sunning are the prime activities. _______________________ Little Rock, AR: I am planning a safari trip to Africa, and was thinking of Tanzania, so my wife and I can see the serengetti. Are there companies you can recommend or any tips? I have been reviewing packages from 2Afrika, any feedback on that company? Candyce Stapen: I recommend Abercrombie & Kent. Although pricey, the lodges they choose are first --rate. Micato is also a good company. _______________________ San Jose, California: I have vacation for the ENTIRE month of February. We are a family of three, our son will be 4 years old, by then. We are looking to go somewhere warm and that would be FUN for the entire family. A cruise sounds good. Any ideas or places? MIA, MCO?? Thanks!! Jayne Candyce Stapen: Cruises are great family vacations, especially voyages in the Caribbean. Although the Mexican Riviera voyages are closer to your home, I find that destination less family-friendly. Disney, NCL, RCI and Carnival all offer wonderful kids' programs for kids your sons age. Miami and Fort Lauderdale have lots to offer as does the west coast of Florida around Naples and Ft. Myers. In Naples, consider the Naples Grand Resort & Club (formerly the Registry Resort). In Sanibel, try the Sanibel Harbour Resort & Spa. The Best Western Pelican Beach Resort is a new, family-friendly property in Fort Lauderdale _______________________ Toledo, Ohio: I have heard of a trip where you can be part of an archealogical dig... but I can 't find any information? Could you point me in the right direction? Thanks Candyce Stapen: Check out Crow Canyon Archeological Center in Colorado. _______________________ Portland, Oregon: HI, How do you find a good travel agent or tour company who will put together small group tours of appx. 10 t0 20 people to Ireland, Egypt,Japan and Peru? Thank you, Regards, Lynn Candyce Stapen: Adams & Butler organizes customized trips in Ireland, including creating itineraries, and arranging day outings and overnights at castles and country houses. 800-894-5712, www.irishluxury.com. Abercrombie & Kent, www.abercrombiekent, or Butterfield & Robinson, www.butterfield.com, can assist with some of those destinations. _______________________ Stamford, CT: My husband and two teen-age sons want to walk/hike through Switzerland next summer. Can you recommend any inexpensive tour guides or companies that offer inn to inn accommodations? Chris Candyce Stapen: Backroads offers a family biking and walking trip with lodging at "casual inns" to keep the costs down. However, the hiking is rated for ages 5 and older so check that the routes are challenging enough for your teens. Backroads as well as Butterfield & Robinson can arrange custom trips. _______________________ San Diego, CA: Hi Candyce My wife and I, along with my sister and brother in law (ages 29-32) are planning a trip to Peru (Cuzco and Machu Picchu). Our travel dates our flexible (June-August), flying from L.A. or San Diego. We only have about 8-9 days (including travel time); our interest is more in the cultural/historical, not so much the adventure travel, but would like some day hikes. Our budget is about $2000-2500 p/p including flight. Would you recommend planning the trip individually or get a tour package? Any tour operators you recommend? Thank you, Candyce Stapen: Sonesta Hotels and Resorts has properties in Peru. They can arrange multi-city bookings as well as outings. Compare their prices with those who get from a tour operator. _______________________ Belle Fourche, South Dakota: We would like to see the Grand Canyon this summer by car or possibly Amtrak. Where should we start and end what should we make sure not to miss? How much time should we allow. We would be interested in beginner white water rafting and other outdoor activities and moderately priced accommodations along the way. We have children that will be 18, 15, and 9 by the time we hope to go, around Memorial Day 2006 or June 2006. Thanks for your help. Clara Candyce Stapen: The GRand Canyon is a great trip and you are wise to plan ahead as summer is prime time. The park offers avariety of on site lodgings, but you should book these now. You can start in Flagstaff and take the historic Grand Canyon Railway trip to the South Rim if you are not planning on driving to the Grand Canyon. Good overlooks include Mather Point, the Yavapai Observation Station and Desert View. The Bright Angel Trail has afirst fountain and rest area about 1.5 miles down the canyon. You can rest there and continue or hike back out. Remember to conserve your energy because the way back is all uphill and you're tired. A number of companies offer multi-day raft trips. OARS (Outdoor Adventure River Specialists) is a good one. _______________________ cheyenne,wyoming: we want to take a trip to see pengiuns,,either those in south africa or ,,???? who is the best agency to do this thru?? Candyce Stapen: There are penguins in several locales. Your best bet is to contact a nature-oriented travel company. Try Wildland or Natural Habitat Adventures. _______________________ North Platte, NE: Not only is connecting with flights from a major airport a long drive, but also traveling alone including staying in any city in the world for business or vacationing alone has become potentially much more dangerous for professionals especially females. Once a carefree traveler and businesswoman, now my experiences with life have sent me into a cautionary spin which seems to keep me from enjoying the sane adventures and interesting vacations of the distant past of forty years ago. Believe it or not, my objective in the near future is to regain the old bravery without sacrificing common sense. How is traveling alone and staying in large cities and small towns around the globe poissible for an older lady by herself unarmed in this era? Would somehow obtaining a real guard dog be a help? Affiliating with a strange other adult female or male companion on a sign-up basis is absolutely out-f-the-question. New college roomies were difficult enough. Taking chances on predators trailing single travelers would be totally foolish. Candyce Stapen: You're quite right to be cautious when traveling alone, but don't let this prevent you from having an enjoyable trip. One answer would be to join the "solo" (not single)departures offered by several companies. I went on a Backroads "solo" walking trip through the Czech Republic with my sister a few years ago and had a great time. Two other adult sisters had signed up as well as single travelers of all ages. Also consider Elder Hostel trips. Group trips provide you with conversation and companionship at meals as well opportunities to spend time alone. Another option when you are in a big city is to splurge on a well-located, quality hotel. Contact the concierge ahead of time to find out about the services of a private, reputable guide for the day who can take you to attractions and provide insider information and history. I"ve done this in Rome and was happily surprised by the quality of the guide recommended. _______________________ King George, Virginia: Having read Diana Gabaldon's Outlander Novels, we are now eager to visit Scotland. What is the best time of year to visit Scotland? (We would like to avoid the annual Tattoo.) We are planning to fly from Washington to London and go by bus or car to Scotland, doing some sightseeing along the way. Thank you. Helmut Candyce Stapen: Summer is the best time of year to visit Scotland because it's warmer then, although it's never what we might call really warm. Last time I was there in July I needed to buy a hat, scarf and gloves because I didn't pack them. Once out of the major cities, the roads are not crowded and the scenery is beautiful. We drove through the Highlands and took a ferry to islands in the Hebrides. _______________________ Candyce Stapen: Thank you so much for your questions. I've enjoyed chatting with you. Happy travels, Candyce Stapen _______________________

New York: Financial District

SEE American Family Immigration History CenterInside the Ellis Island Immigration Museum, 212/561-4500, ellisislandrecords.orgFind out how deep your family roots grow, and search the manifests of ships that brought more than 22 million immigrants to Ellis Island between 1892 and 1924. Open daily, 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; $5 for half-hour genealogical searches. Ferry from Battery Park, $10. SEE Skyscraper Museum39 Battery Pl., on the ground floor of the Ritz-Carlton Battery Park Hotel, 212/968-1961, skyscraper.orgFittingly, this museum's new space was designed by one of the forefathers of modern architecture, the firm Skidmore, Owings & Merrill. Take a virtual tour of Lower Manhattan on the museum's website, and learn everything you ever wanted to know about tall buildings. Open Wed.-Sun., noon-6 p.m.; $5 for adults, free for kids under 12. Pop into the Ritz-Carlton's Rise bar afterward for drinks and stellar harbor views. SEE Tribute Visitors' Center (opening spring 2006)120 Liberty St., 911wvfa.org, projectrebirth.orgThe official visitors' center for Ground Zero. The multimillion-dollar, 6,000-square-foot space will feature guided tours, multimedia kiosks, and a range of exhibits related to the terrorist attacks and their victims. EAT Alfanoose8 Maiden Ln., 212/528-4669, alfanoose.com An impeccable no-frills Lebanese-Syrian joint that has, quite possibly, the best falafel in town. The spicy veggie moussaka and kibbeh (made with Swiss chard and mint) are nothing to sniff at either. Be forewarned: The shop has literally three stools. Closed Sun. EAT Bridge Café 279 Water St., 212/227-3344, bridgecafe.citysearch.comThis red clapboard building is not only the city's oldest drinking establishment (open since 1794), but it also houses an excellent restaurant. Soak up the history (and beer) while you nibble on corn-and-red-onion fritters or crispy fried oysters. EAT Niko Niko80 Wall St., 212/232-0152, nikonikony.comForget the California rolls: It's all about the over-rice (don) dishes. For less than $5, you get a heaping plate of rice with your choice of delicious toppings, such as teriyaki-glazed eel, succulent pork, and Korean bibim bop. Closed Sat. and Sun. SPLURGE Bayard's1 Hanover Sq., 212/514-9454, bayards.comSeasonal cuisine from lauded French-trained chefs is served amid Old World luxe inside the 1851 India House (formerly the New York Cotton Exchange). Even with a stellar wine list, it remains under the radar. Closed Sun. DRINK Ulysses'58 Stone St., 212/482-0400, ulyssesbarnyc.comA stylish, book-themed boîte where you can take your pick of quiet corners to enjoy a pint or two-except after 5 p.m. on Thursday nights, when the bar is packed wall-to-wall with suited traders. SHOP Bowne & Co. Stationers211 Water St., 212/748-8651A charming gas-lit stationer that has been in the printing business since 1775. Its specialty is custom letterpress work, but you can also pick up old-fashioned notecards and postcards printed on Victorian presses. Closed Mon. SAMPLE SALE TIPS   Sign up for mailing lists to get invitations to private presales. We like DailyCandy.com's list.   Sample sales are held in season: Sales on fall and winter merchandise, for example, are generally held from September through November, so you can walk out wearing your finds.   Cash is the preferred method of payment.   Get there early for the best selection, and avoid shopping during lunch hours.   Try things on if you can. Sometimes a strange fit is the reason the garment is on sale. Dress for easy access with slip-on shoes and no-fuss wear.   Most sales are final, so be sure to inspect the merchandise closely!