Canada

February 6, 2007
0703_tc_couple2
Amanda Friedman
A couple from Bosque Farms, N.M., is traveling across Canada by train to celebrate their 33rd wedding anniversary.

Who's Traveling
Robert and Donna Royer
of Bosque Farms, N.M., about 20 miles south of Albuquerque. Bob is a semiretired research professor of organic chemistry at the University of New Mexico School of Medicine. "He's a quiet man, on paper and in person," says Donna. She's a retired mail carrier for the postal service. "I loved it because I got to be outdoors all the time." Donna looks after Czar, the 23-year-old horse they've owned since he was foaled, as well as three cats and a vegetable garden.

Where They're Going
To celebrate their 33rd anniversary, the Royers are traveling across Canada by train. "The trip is enticing because of the scenic beauty," says Donna. Bob is (pardon the pun) totally onboard. "Trains are my favorite way to travel," he says. "You get to see more and it's very relaxing."

The Royers bought 30-day North America Rail Passes from VIA Rail Canada, which they'll use to traverse the 3,700 miles from Vancouver to Halifax (amtrak.com or via.ca, from $709). They'll make some plans in advance, but Donna doesn't want to be locked into a schedule. "A couple of years ago, we visited Utah without any particular itinerary," she says. "While I tended to overplan our trips early in our marriage, Bob has since taught me the beauty of serendipity."

How Can We Help?
The right pass: "Will 30 days give us time for four to six short stopovers?" asks Bob. "We'd like to spend a few days in each city."

Sleeping on the train: Donna has made reservations at B&Bs and hostels here and there, but she'd like more suggestions. "Do we need to book sleeper cars in advance, too?" she wonders.

Sightseeing: Aside from Montreal and Halifax, for the history and food, not much else so far has caught their eye. "Where do you recommend we stop along the route?" asks Bob.

Flexibility: "We'll want to get outside the cities," says Bob. "Will car rentals or public transportation from the train stations present a problem?"

Sticking to a budget: "We're both as tight as the bark on a tree," Donna laughs. "With your ideas, we're really hoping to have a fantastic trip without spending a fortune."

Here's Our Advice
The trains: Bob and Donna's passes allow them unlimited stops in a 30-day period. To get from Vancouver to Halifax, they'll need to take three trains: the Canadian (Vancouver-Toronto), the Corridor (Toronto-Montreal), and the Ocean (Montreal-Halifax). Passes are valid for seats in coach, which recline but don't fold flat.

The Canadian offers two classes of sleeper service: semiprivate (three sets of bunks, separated by curtains, from $200) and private (from $375). All cabins have toilets and sinks; there are shared shower rooms. Fares include meals in the dining car. On the Ocean, meals cost extra, and cabins have either a toilet and sink ($85) or a full bath with a shower ($95). The Corridor doesn't have sleeper cars because the ride from Toronto to Montreal is only five hours. To secure these prices, the Royers must reserve at least five days in advance; late bookings cost $40-$70 more.

If Bob and Donna were traveling in the summer high season, they'd have to make sleeper car reservations within 21 days of travel and pay a $50-$200 premium.

Vancouver, British Columbia: Before boarding the train, the Royers are spending a couple of days in Vancouver. It's a great city, but one of the best things about it is its location--it's surrounded by gorgeous scenery. Just 40 minutes north (SeaBus ferry to the No. 236 bus, $3 for both) is the Capilano Suspension Bridge, which hangs 230 feet above a canyon (604/985-7474, capbridge.com). If the Royers don't want to pay the $21 admission, there's Lynn Canyon Park's suspension bridge instead. It's not as impressive (166 feet high), but it's free (604/981-3103, lynncanyonparkguide.bc.ca).

Jasper, Alberta: "We'd like to see wildlife on our hikes and drives," says Bob. At Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park, snowcapped peaks tower above the brilliant aquamarine water (780/852-6176, pc.gc.ca, $8). It's a 60-minute drive south of Jasper; Hertz, Thrifty, and National rent cars at the train station starting at $35 a day. Alternatively, Maligne Tours sells five-hour excursions that include a round-trip shuttle and boat cruise (780/852-3370, malignelake.com, $57). Either way, the Royers should keep their eyes peeled for bears, deer, and elk--spring and fall are peak viewing seasons.

Winnipeg, Manitoba: Because Donna describes herself and Bob as bookish, they ought to pick up a free copy of Winnipeg's Book Walk at the city's tourism office (259 Portage Ave., 204/943-1970, destinationwinnipeg.ca). The brochure outlines a self-guided walking tour to 10 downtown bookstores, many of which sell used and rare books. Highbrow Books, for example, specializes in the humanities and sciences (310 Donald St., 204/943-5668).

Toronto, Ontario: "Chocolate is a basic food group, as far as I'm concerned," says Donna. "I have a chocolate addiction!" chimes in Bob. The Distillery District, 13 acres of Victorian warehouses converted in 2001 into a pedestrian-only mall (55 Mill St., thedistillerydistrict.com), is a 10-minute bus ride from the train station (No. 72 or No. 172, $2). Inside, the Royers will find Soma Chocolatemaker, famous for its decadent Mayan Hot Chocolate ($9), and the Mill Street Brewery, which makes a popular dark-brown porter with hints of chocolate ($2).

Montreal, Quebec: "I especially like places where you can visit most things on foot," says Bob. "We often wander around just to see interesting buildings." They'll love the oldest part of the city, Vieux-Montreal, where cobblestoned streets are lined with fantastic examples of 18th-century architecture. The area is also home to the gloriously ornate Notre-Dame Basilica, which was built in 1829 (110 rue Notre-Dame Ouest, $4).

Quebec City, Quebec: Bob tells us crepes are "Donna's type of food," but he'll want to give Le Casse-Crepe Breton a try anyway. The couple can build their own with veggies, cheese, and ham--or they can stick with chocolate (1136 rue St-Jean, 418/692-0438, from $4). And although the city should keep them entertained, Montmorency Falls is a 30-minute bus ride away if they get bored (take No. 800 to No. 50, $2). For $7, a cable car deposits visitors at the base of a waterfall that's one and a half times the height of those in Niagara (418/663-3330, sepaq.com).

Halifax, Nova Scotia: The Royers are history buffs, so they'll enjoy a visit to Pier 21, Canada's Ellis Island, which is behind the train station (902/425-7770, pier21.ca, $7). More than a million immigrants entered Canada here between 1928 and 1971; their stories and photos are on display in the exhibition hall. Because the couple loves seafood, a fitting way to celebrate the end of the journey is dinner at Economy Shoe Shop (1663 Argyle St., 902/423-7463, entrees from $9). Despite its odd name, "The Shoe" is one of the most popular restaurants in Halifax, with jazz on Monday nights and a menu that includes a delicious lobster and scallop vol-au-vent.

Expert Advice: Wildlife Photos
Photographer Donald Jones's latest book is Buffalo Country: America's National Bison Range. His tips:

 

  • "Go out in the early morning when the animals are full of energy and light is low and warm."
  •  

  • "To capture animals in motion, use a camera that shoots at least three frames per second. (Mine shoots eight-and-a-half and I still miss things.)"
  •  

  • "Get the entire animal in the frame. Don't cut off its legs!"
  • Plan Your Next Getaway
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    Travel Smart

    1. State of grace. When renting a car, be sure that its license plate is from the state you're in. I travel almost half of the year on business (and another month for pleasure), and over time, I've noticed that police are more likely to give a traffic ticket to a driver with out-of-state tags than to one with their state's tags. James Owens, Lexington, Va. 2. What a bright idea. Print your itinerary details--including all confirmation numbers, telephone numbers, etc.--on colored paper. When you have to refer to them, it's easy to locate that piece of paper among other items you may be carrying. Beverly J. Rettus, Los Gatos, Calif. 3. Say it with Post-its. I'm probably known as the Post-it Lady on cruise ships! I use them to leave notes on the cabin mirror for the steward--asking for more ice, more Kleenex, an extra towel, whatever. It works! Eleanor L. Benedict, Herndon, Va. 4. Who ya gonna call? Before leaving home, place or tape an index card in a pocket in your luggage with your charge cards' emergency telephone numbers that can be called if the cards are lost or stolen. (Not the charge card numbers, just the telephone numbers.) If your cards are missing, you will not have an additional problem of not knowing who or what number to call. This would have greatly helped an elderly couple I met when I was traveling. The wife had had her wallet taken and no idea who to call about credit cards, etc. Nancy A. Charest, Hamden, Conn. 5. Sit on it. When traveling, I always take a three-legged chair, available from Magellan's (search for "packseat" at magellans.com, $25). It weighs almost nothing, and I sewed on a wide woven guitar strap. I slip it over my shoulder and the chair lies flat and light against my back. When I need to sit and listen to a guide during a long walking tour, I simply slide the seat down and it's ready for my tired self. On every tour group I've been with, people ask me where I got my seat. It also fits perfectly in the overhead compartment of a plane. Stephanie Pincson, San Francisco, Calif. You can find more tips in the March 2007 issue of Budget Travel magazine.

    Trip Coach: February 6, 2007

    Paris Permenter & John Bigley: Hi, We're Paris Permenter and John Bigley, a husband-wife team of travel writers ready to answer your questions about romantic getaways around the world. _______________________ Atlanta, GA: I'm looking for an island getaway for us. My husband loves to golf and I'd like to enjoy some spa treatments while he's on the course. We'd both like to hang out on the beach, but we don't want a hectic atmosphere. What would be a good option? We live in Georgia. Paris Permenter & John Bigley: Bermuda is the golf capital of the world with more courses per square mile than any place...and it's also very romantic (and an easy hop from Georgia)! We'd especially recommend Cambridge Beaches, an elegant property that's perfect for a romantic getaway. In fact, we celebrated our 20th anniversary at the resort last year with a stay in one of the cottages. For our anniversary dinner, we had a private, in-room dining which is quite a treat. A private waiter comes to your room with menus, returning throughout the night to bring drinks and multiple courses (don't miss the Bermudian chowder). During warm weather months (remember Bermuda is not part of the Caribbean so temperatures are spring-like except for June through August), one lucky couple at a time can opt for Island Dining, a private evening dinner near the resort on what's deemed Honeymoon Island. The couple is transported by boat, along with a private butler and specially-prepared dinner, to the island then left alone for an evening of romance. The resort is also home to the Ocean Spa, a 10,000-square-foot facility that includes a Roman style solarium as well as elegant spa. Bermuda is a very safe getaway, perfect for exploring on foot, bicycle, and by public bus. (In fact, there are no rental cars on Bermuda so you'll have to rely on other modes of transportation.) _______________________ Houston, TX: I'd like to plan a B&B getaway, but my husband doesn't like B&Bs because of the group breakfasts and the feeling that you're visiting relatives. Do you have any suggestions? Paris Permenter & John Bigley: From Houston, a good option is Fredericksburg, located in the Texas Hill Country. With over 300 B&Bs, Fredericksburg is Texas's B&B capital. What makes it perfect for you are its many guest houses; unlike traditional B&Bs, they don't have onsite hosts so the two of you have the cottage or home all to yourselves! They really have a home away from home feel; some are in traditional homes while others are in log cabins or historic Sunday houses that German farmers once used when they made weekly trips into town. When you arrive in town, you'll go to the local reservation office to pick up your keys and a map to the property then it's all yours! Many of the reservation services leave a microwavable breakfast in refrigerator so these truly are B&Bs. One particular B&B in Fredericksburg is particular popular with guys: Fredericksburg Bed & Brew. Located at the Fredericksburg Brewing Company, the B&B has 12 themed rooms (11 of them over the brewery, one downstairs). And the "B" in this case doesn't stand for bed...but for brew. Guests get a sampler of the brewery's product. The location is great as well; the B&B sits right on Main Street and is just steps away from the many unique shops and restaurants for which Fredericksburg is known. _______________________ Dallas, TX: Hi! My husband and I got married in Cancun nearly five years ago and I would love to go back for our anniversary. I'm worried about damage from Hurricane Wilma, though. What would you suggest? Thanks, Mary Paris Permenter & John Bigley: Definitely go! We were in Cancun in September and the progress since the storm is remarkable. You will see a few properties still undergoing work but many are actually undergoing extensive renovations that they planned for the future. We stayed at the JW Marriott Cancun Resort and Spa which was wonderful; the hotel was in pristine condition for its reopening in September, and we had a great time. (We'd also suggest you check out the hotel's Mayan-inspired spa; we had a couples' massage there and would recommend it!) One of the most remarkable things about Cancun's renovations is its beach recovery. The sand that washed away during the storm was dredged up and brought back in and now the beach is larger than ever. Another plus for romantic travelers: the "new" Cancun is more upscale and elegant than its former self. Once a favorite with spring breakers, Cancun is now attracting more couples and experienced travelers thanks to its renovated hotels that are more elegant than ever before; spas, upgraded rooms, and fine dining are now seen more and more throughout Cancun. _______________________ Springfield, MO: I would like to plan an all-inclusive getaway (possibly in Jamaica) for our anniversary this summer but people have warned me that the all-inclusives really encourage you to stay on property. I think I would like the convenience of an all-inclusive, as we have a limited vacation budget, but I would like to get out and explore, too. Any ideas? Paris Permenter & John Bigley: Sometimes travelers make the mistake of feeling that they have to stay on property at an all-inclusive since their meals and drinks are already paid for as part of their stay. However, we really encourage travelers to get out and explore; even with some day trips and meals off property, you'll find that you're not "wasting" your all-inclusive package and you'll get plenty of benefit from it in terms of transfers, all the other meals you have on property, drinks, and, often, freedom from tipping. Since you'd like to get out and explore, check out the quieter South Coast of Jamaica. Sandals Whitehouse European Village and Spa is the first all-inclusive to be built on the South Coast, and we found that it really makes it easy for couples to get out and explore the region with many optional tours. It's also very easy to set up a private driver for the day to take you to local jerk stands (we recommend Billy's Place, just a short drive from Sandals Whitehouse) and seaside restaurants (check out Little Ochie, a beachside restaurant that's very popular with local residents). Another benefit of the South Coast is that you won't find the hassling that bothers many visitors on the busier North Coast. Because tourist development is new on that side of the island, the pace is very relaxed and visitors feel freer to get out, explore, and take part in the community. There are also several unique attractions on the South Coast like Black River where you can take a cruise up the Black River to spot crocodiles. Appleton Estate offers an excellent tour of its distillery that includes some history about how the island's most popular product was produced in the early days. _______________________ Baltimore, MD: Good day. The coastlines of Italy, Greece and Croatia fascinate me. I can see it now; A beautiful cruise on a small chartered sea vessel along the edge of these most awesome coasts with my fiance (who doesn't know how to swim). Imagine scenes from the movie "The Talented Mr. Ripley". Just not as rich as the characters. An ideal cruise would be as few people on board as possible, maybe 12 or fewer including crew, stops in small ports, maybe some fishing, diving, and plenty of opportunity to enjoy life. September 2007 sounds like a great time to explore. Our gateway would be either Atlanta or NY Kennedy. Thank you so much for your consideraton. Christa Paris Permenter & John Bigley: That region is a great place to explore by boat; for a small cruise of that size, you'll want to look into chartered yachts. Sunsail has a large fleet of bareboat charters (where you crew the vessel yourself) or you can charter a yacht crewed by a skipper (which isn't always as expensive as it might sound if you can get together with other couples and share the cost.) A less expensive option is a small ship cruise; we toured the area aboard Star Clipper, one of several tall ships operated by Star Clippers. The cruise held just over 100 passengers (mostly Europeans) and its size made it possible for it to visit smaller ports than the larger cruise ships. We cruised the Aeolian Islands, very romantic, small islands that see few tourists. _______________________ Los Alamitos, CA: Hello, I am traveling to London to spend Valentine's week with my British boyfriend of 5 years. We've spent several holidays together, but this will be our first Valentine's Day together and I'd like to make it extra special (without breaking the bank). Any suggestions? Thank you! Paris Permenter & John Bigley: London's definitely a romantic city and one with lots of options for lovers. If you'll be booking a hotel room, consider one centrally located to minimize travel time and to maximize romantic strolls. We've enjoyed stays at the Crowne Plaza London St. James; unlike some other hotels in the neighborhood, it's not a budget buster but still has many romantic amenities including a spa, several trendy restaurants and a bar, and a romantic courtyard (plus it's just a five-minute walk from many attractions like Buckingham Palace). A very romantic option in London is a ride aboard the London Eye and they're celebrating Valentine's with several romantic options. You can book the "Valentine's Champagne Flight" after dark and watch the city lights while you enjoy champagne and chocolates (the package also includes a red rose); the 30-minute experience is priced at £59.98 per couple. If you have more to spend, for £299.00 you can book your own private capsule; a host serves champagne and chocolates and, after the 30-minute ride, you enjoy a three-course meal at a partner restaurant. On Valentine's Day only, the London Eye is offering a special adults-only cruise on the Thames; for £40.00 per couple you'll enjoy champagne as you drift by London's landmarks. _______________________ Philadelphia, PA: I'm attending a conference in San Antonio this summer and my wife plans to come along with me. What romantic activities would you suggest for our free time? Paris Permenter & John Bigley: San Antonio is one of our favorite romantic cities! Even though it's a top convention destination, you'll find plenty of romantic attractions, from strolls along the River Walk to sidewalk cafes. Since you'll be attending a convention, River Walk hotels are very convenient for your conference and for free time fun. We recently stayed at the Watermark Hotel and Spa, an elegant hotel with just 99 rooms. It's located on the South Bank, a part of the River Walk that's increasingly known for its dining. The hotel itself is home to Pesca on the River, featuring fresh seafood from around the world. We'd also recommend the hotel's spa and their couple's massage. Just across the river, you'll find a longtime River Walk hotel, Omni La Mansión del Rio, known for its Spanish Colonial style. Be sure to ask for a room with a river view and a balcony if it's available! While you're on the River Walk, be sure to take a ride aboard one of the barges. The tours are fun but for a real romantic treat, have a meal aboard one of the barges. Many of the river restaurants offer meals onboard so just ask at a restaurant that appeals to you if they offer barge meals. For a bird's eye view of the area, head up to the top of the recently renovated Tower of the Americas. There's a bar at the top as well as a revolving restaurant, perfect for a romantic dinner. _______________________ Salem, Ore.: Hello--My husband and I are planning a trip to New York and Washington D.C. this fall. We'd love some advice on romantic hotels, romantic but inexpensive restaurants and romantic things to do. This will be our first vacation together since getting married five years ago, so we'd like to make it special and fun. Thank you, Sally Paris Permenter & John Bigley: The key to any romantic getaway is a romantic spirit you bring to the trip so don't feel that you have to spend a lot of money to have a memorable, romantic getaway. (After all, romantic fun like hand-in-hand strolls don't cost a cent!) NYC & Company, the tourism department for the city, has a long list of free activities here. From free trolley rides to free museums and gardens to free special events, you'll find fun to make your vacation budget stretch further. Another budget stretcher we love? Pack a picnic for Central Park (then splurge on a snuggly carriage ride!) Similarly, the official Washington DC tourism site also includes many free attractions. Both resources can be good starting points for budget saving packages. And don't rule out business hotels for romantic weekend getaways; rates are often far lower on the weekends so you can splurge at a hotel might have thought was out of reach. _______________________ Paris Permenter & John Bigley: Thanks so much for all your questions! You can always find us over at Lovetripper.com and our Texas travel site, TexasTripper.com. Happy Valentine's Day! Paris & John

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