Cape Town: Mountains

April 17, 2006

Table Mountain National Park bisects the long Cape Peninsula, rising up from miles of beaches and dividing warm waters from cold. It's covered with animals and bushy indigenous plants called fynbos.

SEE Cape Point
011-27/21-780-9204, capepoint.co.za
Often called the southern tip of Africa (actually, that would be Cape Agulhas), this is where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans converge. But the reserve also has mountains that beg to be explored, as well as untouched beaches. Watch for mountain zebras, antelope, and wandering troops of baboons. $7.50. Drive time: one hour.

SEE Chapman's Peak Drive
011-27/21-791-8222, chapmanspeakdrive.co.za
Recently rebuilt after severe rockfalls, this white-knuckler of a road from Hout Bay to Noordhoek hugs sheer cliffs overlooking rough Atlantic waters. After five and a half miles and 114 curves, you'll need a drink, and the pub at Chapman's Peak Hotel (Main Rd., Hout Bay, 011-27/21-790-1036) is a good choice. Tip: The best views are on the return trip. Outbound toll $3.60.

SEE Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens
Rhodes Dr., Newlands, 011-27/21-799-8783, nbi.ac.za
As one of the world's six Floral Kingdoms, the Cape Peninsula has thousands of plant species that aren't found anywhere else on the planet. A favorite local picnic spot. Tours depart 10 a.m. on Tues. and Sat. Admission $4. Buses run three times a day in both directions, weekdays only, from Golden Acre Terminus in Cape Town, $1 each way. Call for timetable (011-27/21-507-8800, gabs.co.za), or take Hop On--Hop Off bus. Drive time: 15 min.

SEE Table Mountain Aerial Cableway
Lower Cable Station, Tafelberg Rd., 011-27/21-424-8181, tablemountain.net
Ascend or descend Table Mountain by an aerial cable car that slowly spins around. It only operates in good weather. Prepare to stand on line, and bring a sweater, as you'll climb above the clouds. Departs every 15 minutes. $10 one way, $19 round trip. Check the website for seasonal discounts.

EAT Lister's Place
Tokai Arboretum, 011-27/21-715-4512
Before you set out on a walk through Tokai Forest or hit one of the peninsula's few mountain-biking trails (based here), fortify yourself with a homemade chicken pie or toasted sandwich at the simple yet sweet restaurant housed in a stone cottage shaded by centuries-old trees at the trailhead. Closed Mon. Drive time: 30 min.

SHOP Open-Air Sculpture Market
M65, between Scarborough and Cape Point Reserve
Shortly after Atlantic Road to Cape Point curves inland, in the middle of nowhere, you'll come face-to-face with an entire army of Shona sculptures--an art form perfected by the Shona tribe from neighboring Zimbabwe. The smooth sculptures are carved from local stone into animal, human, and spiritually significant shapes. Pull over and bargain.

PLAY Lion's Head
011-27/21-689-4441, tmnp.co.za
A short yet steep climb above the city is well worth the effort. Even beginners can do it, and the reward is the bird's-eye view of the city and Atlantic seaboard. Some ardent hikers do it by moonlight. The climb takes about an hour and a half.

PLAY Silvermine
Ou Kaapse Weg, between Noordhoek and Tokai, 011-27/21-780-9002, tmnp.co.za
One of the highest points in vast Table Mountain National Park, and accessible by car. Some parts resemble moonscapes; others are covered with proteas. Picnic by the dam close to parking, or climb up to the lookout on the Noordhoek Circuit for views of endless Long Beach surf. Admission $1.50. Drive time: 45 min.

PLAY Solole Game Reserve
6 Wood Rd., Sunnydale, Noordhoek Valley, 011-27/21-785-3248, solole.co.za
Urban conservation reserve located a half hour's drive from the city center. Cape buffalo and nine antelope species roam freely on mountainous terrain. Learn about indigenous animal and plant life on game drives and guided walks. Closed Mon. Walks $16, game drives $5.

SPLURGE Para-Pax Tandem Paragliding
011-27/82-881-4724, parapax.com
Tandem paragliding with licensed pilots. Jump from Lion's Head or Signal Hill. No experience required. $123 for 50-minute flight, add $16.50 for midair pics of screams and grimaces and $16.50 for round-trip shuttle to/from Cape Town.

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Cape Town: Victoria & Alfred Waterfront

A commercial yet still working waterfront with attractions, shops, and restaurants galore. It's not just for tourists; locals come for movies and the boutiques, cafés, and bars. SEE Robben Island Museum Nelson Mandela Gateway, 011-27/21-413-4200, robben-island.org.za Dramatic and uplifting tour of the maximum-security prison on nearby Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for 18 years. Guides are ex--political prisoners who share their harrowing memories. The museum chronicles the anti-apartheid struggle. $25, includes round-trip ferry ride. EAT Quay Four Quay 4, V&A Waterfront, 011-27/21-419-2008, quay4.co.za Casual, perpetually busy place for great fish and chips and a brew on the pier. Grab an outdoor seat next to the water and watch the boats and frolicking seals in the harbor. EAT Simply Asia & Noodle Bar Food Court, Victoria Wharf, 011-27/21-425-5555, simplyasia.co.za For healthy fast food that's full of Asian flavor and spice, sample the take-out noodles from this Thai/Chinese stir-fry joint. Be sure to ditch the food court and eat outside, where you can listen to frequent concerts at the nearby amphitheater. DRINK Alba Lounge Pierhead, 011-27/21-425-3385, albalounge.co.za One of the V&A Waterfront's few watering holes that attract mostly locals, Alba has comfy couches and good drinks, like the Harbour Sunset, made with tequila, peach schnapps, mango juice, and grenadine. DRINK Bascule Whisky Bar and Wine Cellar Cape Grace Hotel, West Quay, 011-27/21-410-7100, capegrace.com Stocks more than 460 types of whiskey, and holds regular tastings and live jazz concerts every Wednesday, 7 p.m.--9 p.m. There are even private lockers where members can store their liquid gold. Prices go up with age: from $2.30 for basic J&B to $2,485 for 50-year-old Glenfiddich. DRINK Waterfront Boat Company Sunset Cruise Quay 5, 011-27/21-418-5806, waterfrontboats.co.za Hour-and-a-half twilight booze cruise of the harbor and nearby beachfronts. The choice is yours: Either sail on a yacht or whiz around on a motorboat. Departure times change with the season. Reservations recommended. $29, sparkling wine and soft drinks included. SHOP African Art Factory Block E, Old City Hospital Complex, 2 Portswood Rd., 011-27/21-421-9910, africanartfactory.co.za Retail outlet for international craft trading operation that helps local entrepreneurs with development, marketing, and export. It sells imaginative beadwork and high-quality ceramics, textiles, and glassware. Short walk from the V&A Waterfront up Portswood Rd., entrance opposite Breakwater Lodge. SHOP Carrol Boyes Functional Art Store 6180 Victoria Wharf, 011-27/21-418-0595, carrol boyes.co.za S.A.'s most famous designer makes addictively collectible pewter tableware adorned with whimsical illustrative touches, such as serpents or couples locked in an embrace. Although she now has a shop in New York City, it's worth coming here for the fantastic selection and better prices. SHOP YDE 225 Victoria Wharf, 011-27/21-425-6232, yde.co.za Short for Young Designers Emporium. One of a national outlet of chic clothing boutiques that showcase local prêt-à-porter designs for 20- and 30-something tastes. Stocked with garments from some of the country's best labels, like Flava and Superstar. SPLURGE Civair Helicopter Flight E. Pier Rd., 011-27/21-419-5182, civair.co.za View the splendor of the Cape from above on a private helicopter flight that passes over City Bowl, Signal Hill, Twelve Apostles, Constantia vineyards, beaches, and more. Twenty-minute flights start at $294 for one or two people. Note: The per-person price comes down if there are more people on board. TIP There are more cell phones than landlines in South Africa, so if you need to stay connected, rent a cell at the airport when you arrive. Go to Vodashop Rentafone in the domestic or international Arrivals Lounges, or book online at rentafone.net. Rates run $3.75 per day for phone and SIM card rental, and 39¢ per minute for outgoing calls; incoming calls are free.

Cape Town: Beaches

Beaches run the length of the Peninsula on both sides. Atlantic beaches are tonier with colder water, False Bay beaches more family-oriented and warmer, and many in between are still wild and often deserted. SEE The Boulders M4 south of Simon's Town, 011-27/21-786-2329, tmnp.co.za About 4,000, once nearly extinct, African penguins live in this reserve of massive boulders and sheltered beaches. Elevated walkways allow you to see the birds, up close. You can also swim (with penguins) in the warmish calm waters. If the penguins don't tempt you to visit, the panoramic views of False Bay might. Admission $2.50. Drive time: 60 min. EAT Biggsy's Coach & Wine Bar Cork Bay, 011-27/21-788-7760 A restaurant train that travels two and a half hours from the city to Simon's Town, hugging the False Bay coast along the way. A fun outing any time of day, it's best in the morning, when it serves full English breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, sautéed tomato, and hearty toast. Reservations a must. Round-trip Cape Town--Simon's Town $4. Breakfast Tues.--Fri. $6, champagne breakfast Sat.--Sun. $8. Lunch and late afternoon trains also available. EAT Olympia Café & Deli 134 Main Rd., Kalk Bay, 011-27/21-788-6396 Offbeat, artsy café with unbeatable omelets and sandwiches on potato focaccia that burst with fresh fillings like goat cheese and arugula. Its cinnamon twists are also excellent. Drive time: 30 min. SPLURGE Azure Restaurant The Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa, Victoria Rd., Camps Bay, 011-27/21-437-9000, 12apostleshotel.com Cape Town's best-positioned hotel is sandwiched between the Twelve Apostles Mountain Range and the pounding surf of the Atlantic just outside Camps Bay. Its innovative chef uses a rosemary-like indigenous herb called fynbos to create truly South African dishes such as fynbos springbok loin. Drive time: 15 min. DRINK Café Caprice 37 Victoria Rd., Camps Bay, 011-27/21-438-8315 Cape Town's young and bronzed compare tan lines and exchange text messages over icy mojitos on an overflowing patio facing Camps Bay Promenade on the Atlantic coastline. It also serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Drive time: 10 min. SHOP Main Road, Kalk Bay Funky shops, galleries, and cafés line the main artery of Kalk Bay, a bohemian beach town. You can pick up anything from odd culinary utensils to vintage Cape mementos at the antique and secondhand shops. Try Clementina Ceramics (20 Main Rd., 011-27/21-788-8718, clementina.co.za, closed Mon.) for handmade treasures. Drive time: 30 min., or take the train from Cape Town Central Station. PLAY Clifton and Camps Bay Beaches Cape Town's Atlantic coastline is also its platinum strip. Bungalows once given to returning servicemen have been replaced with millionaire's apartments. Clifton's four beaches attract a more upmarket and single crowd; Camps Bay is more for families and commoners. Both beaches are beautiful, but the water's almost always cold. Drive time: 15 min. PLAY Gary's Surf School Surfer's Corner, Muizenberg, 011-27/21-788-9839, garysurf.com Most locals ride their first waves at the beach, known for its easy swells. For lessons or equipment rental, Gary's the man. He and five other instructors give two-hour lessons. After, they let you keep your board and wet suit for the rest of the day. Reservations recommended. $62, includes equipment rental. Drive time: 30 min. PLAY Imhoff Equestrian Center Imhoff Farm, M65, Kommetjie, 011-27/82-774-1191, horseriding.co.za Good for picture-perfect guided horse rides across endless Noordhoek Beach, between Kommetjie and Noordhoek. Rides last two hours. $28 for 9 a.m. and noon rides; $36 for 4 p.m. Sunset Ride in winter, 5 p.m. in summer. Drive time: 30 min. PLAY Llandudno Beach South of Camps Bay, at the base of a steep, noncommercial enclave of upmarket homes, is a smaller beach with a long Welsh name. Utterly romantic, with bleached white sands that abut rocky outcrops, and ideal for body boarding and summer sundowners. Drive time: 30 min. BEATING THE SOUTH AFRICAN TAXMAN Save your receipts! In S.A., the 14% Value-Added Tax (VAT) is added to nearly all goods and services, and is almost always included in advertised prices. Visitors can reclaim VAT paid on goods only (minus an administration fee of 1.5%), provided total value is 250 Rand ($41) or more. This excludes meals, hotels, and services. If you wish to claim, you must request a tax invoice whenever you purchase goods. Upon departure, submit to an inspection of all goods you are claiming at the VAT refund office at Cape Town International Airport before you check your bags, unless you plan to repack the goods in your carry-on bag. Allow a minimum of 30 minutes extra for this process. If approved, the inspector will give you a rand check, which you can cash in the desired currency at an airport banking facility. Depending on how many souvenirs you're lugging back, it can be worthwhile. Tip: Don't bother filing your claim at the tax refund office at the V&A Waterfront. You're still required to submit to an inspection at the airport. In addition to VAT, all hotels charge a nonrefundable 1% tourism levy. For more info and downloadable forms, go to taxrefunds.co.za.

Cape Town: City

Cape Town's urban area is small, with a compact Central Business District (CBD). Charming residential neighborhoods, like Gardens and Oranjezicht, creep up toward Table Mountain. SEE Gold of Africa Museum 96 Strand St., 011-27/21-405-1540, goldofafrica.com Dynamically curated exhibits that celebrate the history and artistry of African gold. Hundreds of gleaming artifacts from ancient African civilizations are paired with interesting narratives. There's also a lovely tea garden. Closed Sun. $3.30 EAT Ginja 121 Castle St., 011-27/21-426-2368, diningout.co.za (search: ginja) Grain house turned restaurant with a strong foodie following. Dishes have original flavor combos, like prawns with chili and coriander foam. Outstanding spicy concoctions include crocodile curry with grilled langoustines. Dinner only. Closed Sun. EAT Haiku 33 Church St., 011-27/21-424-7000 Busy, dimly lit Asian restaurant known for its dim sum, wok-fried veggies, and sushi. There's even a robata (Japanese open-flame grill), where you can cook your choice of marinated meats. Closed Sun. EAT Melissa's 94 Kloof St., 011-27/21-424-5540, melissas.co.za Urban deli near the top of steep Kloof St. It sells pain au chocolat and other pastries, a weigh-before-you-pay salad buffet, and mega sandwiches. Order the roast beef with red onion marmalade served on hearty ciabatta bread. Pick up picnic stuff for mountain hikes or sundowners on the beach. Open until 8 p.m. daily. EAT Mt. Nelson Hotel Afternoon Tea Buffet 76 Orange St., 011-27/21-483-1737, mountnelson.co.za No place captures colonialism in Cape Town better than the grand old hotel with pink exterior. Afternoon tea in the lounge or on the terrace is a must. It has a lavish spread of desserts, scones, and petite crustless finger sandwiches. It's a little touristy but worth doing for the ultimate colonial Cape experience. Served 2:30 p.m.--5:30 p.m. daily. $20 per person. DRINK Caveau Wine Bar & Deli 50 Bree St., 011-27/21-422-1367, caveau.co.za Cozy wine bar in the old Heritage Square cellar with an extensive wine list and many South African wines by the glass. Its unconventional descriptions of wines--by mood rather than varietal--are user-friendly. The deli can whip up an accompanying plate of local cheeses and cured meats. Closed Sun. DRINK Relish 70 New Church St., 011-27/21-422-3584, relish.co.za Enjoy the best view of looming Table Mountain over cocktails such as Relish Bull, made with Absolut Citron, pineapple and cranberry juices, and Red Bull. The city's trendiest like to gather at the triple-story glass-walled bar and restaurant for post-work unwinding. There's a gastropub menu, too. SHOP African Music Store 134 Long St., 011-27/21-426-0857 No dreads required at the shrine to African music, which houses an impressive collection of mostly South African CDs. The store sells it all, from kwaito, the township hip-hop mix that has South African youth on its feet, to the Soweto String Quartet. SHOP Atlas Trading 94 Wale St., 011-27/21-423-4361 An aromatic spice shop in Bo-Kaap, the city's old Malay quarter, that's the same as it ever was--full of local gossip, as well as masalas, curry powders, and other ingredients for the community's curry pots. Like most other Muslim-run shops, it's closed on Fridays noon to 2 p.m. SHOP Imagenius 117 Long St., 011-27/21-423-7870, imagenius.co.za Inviting boutique crammed with contemporary handcrafted goods in a riot of colors and off-the-wall designs. You'll find a range of iridescent-hued springbok-hide cushions, striking jewelry, bath goodies, and more. PLAY Artscape Theatre D.F. Malan St., 011-27/21-410-9800, artscape.co.za Original South African plays, such as dramatic works by playwright Athol Fugard, and the earthy stand-up comedy of Cape Town's own Kurt Schoonraad, as well as familiar productions like La Bohème with an African twist. Tickets from $8. SPLURGE Africa Nova Cape Quarter Shopping Centre, 72 Waterkant St., Green Point, 011-27/21-425-5123 High-end Afro-gallery whose craftsmanship is unrivaled in the Cape Quarter. Finds include contemporary ceramics by South African artists such as Helen Vaughan and handmade potato-printed fabrics by Kudhinda. The central courtyard outside is a Capetonian favorite. ROADWORTHY ADVICE   South Africans drive on the left side of the road.   Local drivers vigilantly adhere to the keep-left rule. Only drive in the right-hand lane if you are passing a car.   South Africans don't honk (or hoot, as they call it). Rapid flashing of emergency lights at your car can be either a sign of irritation or a gesture of thanks. If a car flashes lights behind you, it wants to overtake you, and you should move left. A repeat of flashing after it passes you means "thank you."   Leave a big gap between your car and any minitaxis; the drivers believe they control the roadways.   Gasoline, called petrol, is full-service everywhere. Always the tip the attendant at least a rand or two.   Parking on central Cape Town streets is controlled by licensed parking monitors who must show their ID. Rates are 25¢ for 30 minutes, 50¢ for an hour.   Everyone jaywalks in Cape Town, so beware of pedestrians.

Cape Town: Sleep

Accommodations don't come cheap in Cape Town. The closer to the beach, the more you pay. Best bets are City Bowl guesthouses, which are cute, pleasant, and well-priced. Rates exclude 14% VAT. and 1% Tourism Levy. Breakfast included, unless otherwise indicated. CITY An African Villa 19 Carstens St., Tamboerskloof, 011-27/21-423-2162, capetowncity.co.za/villaWall-mounted Zulu hats and giant proteas adorn the 12-room Afro-Zen guesthouse with colorful, comfortable rooms. There's a splash pool, and A/C in all rooms. From $100. CITY De Tafelberg Guesthouse 68 Molteno Rd., Oranjezicht, 011-27/21-424-9159, detafelberg.com A well-appointed guesthouse suspended above the city on the upper slopes of Table Mountain. Earthy African tones, platform beds, and stone basins inside; pristine pool and Jacuzzi outside. Breakfast is served on the outdoor deck. Amazing views. From $114. CITY Dunkley House 3b Gordon St., Gardens, 011-27/21-462-7650, dunkleyhouse.com A small guesthouse that's a hidden haven in a gentrified neighborhood of narrow one-way streets and Victorian homes. The decor is classic with art deco details. Homemade cookies and fresh fruit are delivered to rooms daily. There's a big pool, too. From $114, includes full breakfast and taxes. CITY Metropole Hotel 38 Long St., 011-27/21-424-7247, metropolehotel.co.za Cape Town's first inner-city boutique hotel, and its sleekest. Chic lighting and minimalist luxury reign in what was once a dumpy hotel. The handsome rooms feature neutral tones and dark furniture. The white-on-white Veranda restaurant serves modern South African dishes like seared shrimp with watermelon and chili, and the red-hot M-Bar pours stiff drinks. Both attract a well-heeled crowd. From $162 in low season, $211 in high season. CITY Table Mountain Lodge 10A Tamboerskloof Rd., Tamboerskloof, 011-27/21-423-0042, tablemountainlodge.co.za Once a farmhouse, the blue-and-white lodge built in 1885 has antique furniture and modern bathrooms. The kitschy Scottish bar has tartan-covered stools. Its plunge pool and lovely veranda are surrounded by a slightly overgrown Cape garden with yellow hibiscus and creeping vines. A quick stroll to many restaurants. From $126. CITY The Village Lodge 49 Napier St., De Waterkant, 011-27/21-421-1106, thevillagelodge.com High-style digs in the superfashionable De Waterkant area. The sexy chocolate-walled rooms come with slate showers, and there's a private pool/bar and sundeck on the roof. The Soho Restaurant downstairs serves breakfast, sandwiches, and salads for lunch, and Thai food for dinner. Want to hit the neighborhood clubs? Check out Opium (6 Dixon St., 011-27/ 21-438-8315), a couple of blocks away. From $106 in low season, $196 in high season. BEACH La Splendida 121 Beach Rd., Mouille Pt., 011-27/21-439-5119, lasplendida.co.za Comfortable new all-suite hotel with a fantastic seaside location across from the Promenade, close to the V&A Waterfront and beaches. Rooms are corporate African in style with Big Five animal-print upholstery on the chairs and some sofas. Most rooms have sea or mountain views. From $107. BEACH Rosedene Lodge 3 Rosedene Rd., Sea Pt., 011-27/21-439-7037, rosedenelodge.com A small guesthouse on a quiet lane behind Sea Point's busy main road, just a couple of blocks from the water. It oozes good taste with its minimalist decor, crisp linens, artwork, and personal service. Details such as mosaic-tiled or slate bathrooms, outside reading lights on private terraces, and movie night twice a month, with a big screen in the pool area, make it a standout. The staff can even arrange car rentals at good rates. From $92 in low season, $180 in high season. WINELANDS Résidence Klein Oliphants Hoek 14 Academie St., Franschhoek, 011-27/21-876-2566, kleinoliphantshoek.co.za Once called Oliphants Hoek for the elephants that freely roamed the valley. The guesthouse is in an 1888 missionary station on a quiet back street, and looks out over mountains and a landscaped garden with flowers and herbs. Depending on how full the guesthouse is, the chef/owners prepare extraordinary five-course gourmet meals ($48) on a wood-burning stove, and serve such dishes as scallops with cucumber and yogurt. The restaurant is open to the public, but guests get first preference for dinner reservations. From $84 in low season, $98 in high season, includes breakfast. SPLURGE Winchester Mansions Hotel 221 Beach Rd., Sea Pt., 011-27/21-434-2351, winchester.co.za Gracious colonial-style hotel built in 1922 across from Sea Point Promenade. Palm trees, bougainvillea, and a tranquil, shady colonnaded courtyard blend with warm South African hospitality. There are numerous affordable treatments at the on-site Gingko Health and Wellness Spa, such as the Gingko De-Stress Express ($77). Quote these special rates offered to BudgetTravelOnline: Colonial-style doubles from $126 in low season, $270 in high season. Modern doubles from $143 in low season, $302 in high season. Some suites for under $240.