Guatemala City and Antigua

From the continent that brought you Yellowstone and Yosemite: Astounding scenery! Glaciers you can climb! Swarms of wild butterflies! We do not exaggerate. The National Parks of Canada are among the top touristic destinations in the world. And thanks to a good exchange rate, they also remain a highly affordable vacation for American travelers. Today, we're counting down our picks for the best of the best. Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, British Columbia Vancouver Island's west coast is already Canada's top surfing destination. Add a 46-mile trail through old-growth temperate rain forest, a hundred islands for wilderness kayakers, and 20,000 migrating gray whales each spring, and it's no wonder the 93-mile strip of seashore is so popular that reservations are required to visit certain parts. Inland, it's a temperate rain forest, which means it gets around 120 inches of rain a year. (So pack the rubber stuff!) And don't hike the trails without a buddy--wild cougars are frequently observed in parts of the park. When to go: Late June to early September for the finest weather, but March and April for the whale migration. Wildlife: Killer whales cruise offshore, eagles soar over the Broken Islands, sea lions and seals play in the surf. Bear-watching boats depart from the towns of Tofino and Ucluelet for about $50 a run. (All prices in this article are in U.S. dollars.) Where to stay: The waterfront Whaler's Point Guesthouse in Tofino, a town that's becoming well known for its galleries. Simple private doubles $57, 250/725-3443, tofinohostel.com/. Don't miss: Dipping your toes into tidal pools or exploring the rain forest with the park's free interpretive walks and trails. Nuu-chah-nulth Trail, for one, focuses on the history of the First Nations, the preferred term for Canada's indigenous people. For details, make a stop at the park's recently revamped Wickaninnish Centre at Long Beach. Kids: Teenage girls can learn to ride the waves at Surf Sister's five-day summer camps ($375) and two-day programs ($148). Lessons for anyone 12 and up are $57. 877/724-7873, surfsister.com/. Planning: 250/726-7721; Tourism British Columbia, 800/435-5622, hellobc.com/. Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta Separated by a slashed clearing through the forest, Alberta's Waterton Lakes National Park and neighboring Glacier National Park in Montana form the world's first International Peace Park. The tiny lakeside town of Waterton sits where the Rocky Mountains drop dramatically to rolling prairies, generating winds so strong the historic seven-story Prince of Wales Hotel has to be anchored with huge cables. When to go: The sunniest weather is from June through September. For wildflowers--55 percent of Alberta's wildflowers are found in the park--visit in early summer; for bird migrations and the best animal sightings, go in late fall. Wildlife: Watch for moose at Cameron Valley (a popular canoeing lake); black bear, elk, and bighorn sheep on the prairie portion of the park; eagles on updrafts in the valley; and grizzlies wandering in the wilderness beyond town. Don't miss: The two-hour cruise along the shores of Upper Waterton Lake, which is the deepest lake in the Rockies. It goes to Goat Haunt, a U.S. ranger station just over the border in Montana ($19 adults, $14 ages 13 to 17, $7 kids, Waterton International Shoreline Cruise Company, 403/859-2362). Where to stay: Waterton Lakes Lodge is the only full-service resort in town (from $163 in summer, about $50 less in spring and fall, 888/895-6343, watertonlakeslodge.com/). The historic Prince of Wales Hotel, below, has an undeniably spectacular view--unfortunately, it charges high rates to match. You're better off visiting it for afternoon tea ($19). You need to know: Because there are only 400 hotel rooms available in town, you really do have to book far in advance! Budget secret: Park interpreters from both the United States and Canada lead free cross-border, full-day hikes every Saturday. You only have to pay for the boat fare: $4 to $11, depending on age. Planning: 403/859-2224; regional information, 403/853-2252, watertonpark.com/. Banff National Park, Alberta Canada's oldest national park started with three prospectors poking around the Rockies. They didn't find gold, just a steaming, sulfurous hot spring, but the protection of that discovery, in 1885, led to the creation of a 656-square-mile park of jagged snow-capped mountains, broad U-shaped valleys, turquoise lakes, rich forests, and meandering rivers. More than 4 million visitors pay their respects every year, and with some of the world's best hiking and skiing, peak season never ends. Photo op: For that classic, mountain-reflected-by-the-lake shot, make an early-morning visit to the poppy-filled garden behind the elegant Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise resort. Also stunning is the unbelievably blue Peyto Lake, off the Icefields Parkway, between Lake Louise and the Jasper Park border. Wildlife: Elk were once so prolific that park staffers were issued slingshots in an effort to persuade them to move out of town. Grizzlies, meanwhile, hang out in the mountains, stuffing themselves in summer with up to 100,000 buffalo berries each day. Where to stay: There are roughly 30 inns, including the pleasant Rocky Mountain B&B right in town (from $72, 403/762-4811, rockymtbb.com/). The Banff and Lake Louise youth hostels, made of stone and timber, have been rated in the world's top 10, and they have family rooms (doubles from $55 in Banff, from $65 in Lake Louise, hihostels.ca/, 866/762-4122). Don't miss: The free guided hikes offered by the Friends of Banff Park (friendsofbanff.com/); the 50,000-plant Cascade Gardens, also free, at the foot of Banff Avenue; or the historic Banff Upper Hot Springs, located on Sulphur Mountain--it's a pool with a fabulous setting surrounded by pines and peaks ($5). Fascinating fact: The Trans-Canada Highway between Banff and Lake Louise zips beneath a pair of million-dollar overpasses that were constructed so that animals could cross the highway safely. You need to know: There are lots of additional lodgings by Banff's eastern gate in Canmore's strip of hotels and motels. What they lack in charm, they make up for in convenience. Try the Quality Resort Chateau Canmore (suites from $82, 403/678-6699, chateaucanmore.com/). Planning: 403/762-1550; Banff/Lake Louise Tourism Bureau, 403/762-8421, banfflakelouise.com/. Jasper National Park, Alberta Raging rivers, crashing waterfalls, and one of the world's most accessible glaciers are just three reasons why people drive the 142-mile Icefields Parkway, which winds from Lake Louise to Jasper. Once they arrive, they bike wooded trails, raft on waters that were glacier ice hours earlier, and soak in Miette Hotsprings, the hottest mineral pool in the Rockies. What makes the park particularly appealing, though, is that it's so darn easy to stumble across wildlife. When to go: Mid-June to Sept 1. Ski mid-December through spring. Photo op: Fifty-mile visibility from the Jasper Tramway ($21), just across the river from town. Wildlife: The 29-mile drive to Maligne Lake; you might just catch glimpses of bears, moose, and deer on a single outing. In town, don't be surprised to see elk peeking from between train cars. Where to stay: The central, recently re-furbished Athabasca Hotel has enough mounted critters in the lobby to fill its own museum (from $75, 877/542-8422, athabascahotel.com/). Don't miss: Larger than the city of Vancouver, Athabasca Glacier sends melted snow and ice to three oceans--the Arctic, Atlantic, and Pacific--as well as to powerful Athabasca Falls. The glacier and the falls can easily be seen by car from the dramatic Icefields Parkway. To get in closer go to Icefield Centre, at the Athabasca Glacier, 65 miles south of Jasper, with tours on giant-wheeled buses that crawl onto the ice ($22 adults, $11 children, Brewster Snowcoach, 877/423-7433, brewster.ca/). You need to know: You're most likely to spot roadside animals at dusk and dawn--but that's when it's also easiest to accidentally hit them. Drive carefully. Budget secret: The Friends of Jasper offer nightly, year-round historical walking tours, birding excursions, and moonlight hikes for $1.50 (780/852-4767, friendsofjasper.com/). Planning: 780/852-6176; Jasper Tourism & Commerce, 780/852-3858, jaspercanadianrockies.com/. Bruce Peninsula National Park, Ontario On its west side, the 104-square-mile park, straddling the Niagara Escarpment, slips gently into bogs, beaches, and Lake Huron. On its east side, cliffs plunge into the clear waters of Georgian Bay. When to go: May to September. Photo op: The park's eroded eastern shoreline, particularly the giant stone "flowerpot" column formations. Wildlife: More than 300 species of birds migrate through this peninsula. The massasauga rattlesnake is an elusive resident, and the black bear makes unwelcome appearances when campers leave food lying around. Where to stay: The picturesque fishing village of Tobermory, 10 minutes away, where Innisfree B&B overlooks the harbor (rooms from $50, 519/596-8190, www.bbcanada.com/innisfree). From here, you can see the crystalline waters of Fathom Five National Marine Park of Canada, with its 21 islands, lighthouses, and 22 turn-of-the-century shipwrecks. Don't miss: The half-mile hike from Halfway Rock Point to Overhanging Point. The coastal scenery is staggering: erosion-sculpted cliffs, grottos, and deep-blue waters. Planning: 519/596-2233; Bruce County Tourism, 800/268-3838, naturalretreat.com/; Bruce Peninsula Tourism, 519/793-4734, brucepeninsula.org/. Bruce Peninsula National Park: Some of the stunted eastern white cedar trees that cling to the cliffs along Georgian Bay, above, are over 1,000 years old--and less than five feet tall. The park is also home to more than 30 species of orchids, best seen in early June. Point Pelee National Park, Ontario It's all about birds and butterflies on this tiny peninsula, which pokes into Lake Erie like a dagger. More than two-thirds marsh, the beach-fringed finger of land, measuring just six square miles, is a haven for tired birds and butterflies migrating across the Great Lake to Mexico and beyond. In May, up to 25,000 bird-watchers also land here, for the show. When to go: May for songbirds, which are also plentiful (but less colorful) in autumn. September for monarch butterflies. It's difficult to predict exactly which days they'll flutter in, but updates can be had by calling a special sighting hotline (519/322-2371). Photo op: Take your long lens for the one-mile stroll on Marsh Boardwalk, then climb aboard the free tram from the visitors center for a 10-minute ride to short trails at the park's tip, the hot spot for bird and butterfly shots. In season, the monarch butterflies often spend early mornings and late afternoons huddled by the thousands in the trees, conserving their warmth and energy. Where to stay: The Wild Rose B&B in Wheatley, 15 minutes from Point Pelee, is owned by Tom Hince, a birding expert, and Lily Shuster, a former park employee (rooms from $75, 519/825-9070, www.netcore.ca/~peleetom). Other convenient locations are the communities of Leamington and Kingsville, close by. Fascinating fact: It's the most southerly point in mainland Canada, with approximately the same latitude as both Rome and Boston. You need to know: For May, book at least six months ahead. Budget secret: Point Pelee National Park doesn't have camping, but just 20 minutes away, you can pitch your tent under the towering oak and hickory trees of Wheatley Provincial Park (519/825-4659, ontarioparks.com/). For dinner, pick up fresh perch or pickerel from the roadside fisheries en route. Planning: 519/322-2365; local information, 800/265-3633, visitwindsor.com/. Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, Quebec Gouged out by a glacier, with banks blanketed in thick forest and flanked by rugged cliffs, the spectacular, 60-mile Saguenay Fjord eventually merges its warm waters with the chilly St. Lawrence Estuary, creating one of North America's richest feeding grounds for whales. Settle yourself on the shore, and you may even spot a blue whale--the biggest mammal on earth. When to go: May to October. Photo op: For belugas, head to the viewing platforms at Baie Sainte-Marguerite and Pointe-Noire. On the fjord's south side at Rivière-Éternité, Zodiac boats navigate 1,000-foot cliffs that dwarf even passing cruise ships (adults $22, kids 12 and under $14, Parc Du Saguenay, 877/272-5229). Wildlife: In summer, finback, minke, and enormous blue whales congregate in the area where the waters meet. Humpbacks and sperm whales also visit. Small white belugas stick around all year. Look for birds gathering over the water--it's a telltale sign of whales beneath. Where to stay: Base yourself where the rivers merge, in the French-Canadian village of Tadoussac. Founded as a fur post in 1599, today it trades in tourists and crafts. The 39-room Hotel Le Beluga is simple but central (from $67, 418/235-4784, le-beluga.qc.ca/). Fascinating fact: Remember the 1984 Rob Lowe movie The Hotel New Hampshire? That was shot at the grand, red-roofed Hotel Tadoussac, which was built in 1864. It's got a dining room with gorgeous murals, where there's a huge, $22 evening buffet. You need to know: Interpretation centers run by provincial governments often keep the English translations of park information stashed somewhere in a binder--you may have to ask for it. Planning: 418/235-4703; Tourism Quebec, 877/266-5687, bonjourquebec.com/; Tourisme Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean, 877/253-8387, tourismesaguenaylacsaintjean.qc.ca/. Fundy National Park, New Brunswick When you paddle in deep water past the park's coastal cliffs, it's hard to imagine that you can return later in the day and have a beach stroll in exactly the same spot--here, tides are so massive, they push rivers back upstream. When to go: Late June to mid-September. Photo op: Sumptuous Dickson Falls, where waters cascade down moss-covered boulders. A one-mile loop trail near the headquarters leads you there. For a gripping coastal view of the park, head to Butland Lookoff on Highway 114. Also, during the Bay of Fundy's extreme low tide--which draws 200 billion tons of water--you get the chance to explore the ocean floor with a park interpreter. Walks are offered daily in July and August. Wildlife: Deer, moose, and black bear all live here, and beaver lodges are easy to spot from Highway 114. More than 100 species of birds also nest in the park, including the reintroduced, endangered peregrine falcon. Where to stay: Inside the park at Fundy Highland Inn & Chalets (from $64, 506/887-2930, fundyhighlandchalets.com/) and Fundy Park Chalets (from $45, 506/887-2808, fundyparkchalets.com/). There are more motels and guesthouses located in the village of Alma, at the park entrance. Fascinating fact: The Bay of Fundy's tide draws 200 billion tons of water, which is approximately the same as the daily output of all of the earth's rivers combined. You need to know: Dress for the park's two-climate zone. You can be toasty on an inland trail and chilled by the moist coastal air 10 minutes later. Budget secret: In July and August, every child's park admission includes a one-hour "Junior Naturalist Program" excursion, such as a visit to a beaver pond. Planning: 506/887-6000; Albert County Tourism, 506/734-2660, albertcountytourism.com/; Tourism New Brunswick, 800/561-0123, tourismnbcanada.com/. Prince Edward Island National Park, Prince Edward Island Beyond PEI's rolling green hills, creamy-white churches, and mussel farms are the long, sandy beaches, rust-red cliffs, and giant shifting sand dunes of Prince Edward Island National Park. Spread across 25 miles of the north shore, this is one of Canada's smallest--yet busiest--parks. When to go: Late June to late August. Photo op: Dunes grow to 60 feet at Greenwich, at the park's west end. Don't miss: The state-of-the-art Greenwich Interpretation Centre at the east end has interactive exhibits and hiking trails; nearby archaeological digs have found 10,000-year-old traces of habitation. And visit the turn-of-the-century Green Gables House, which was the inspirational setting for L. M. Montgomery's classic children's novel Anne of Green Gables. Where to stay: You can find cottages for $40 a night through Prince Edward Island Tourism Information (888/734-7529). Dalvay-by-the-Sea, a National Historic Site at the eastern end of the park, is an elegant Victorian home built in 1895 by an oil tycoon. It's now an upscale inn and restaurant (from $115 per person, 902/672-2048, dalvaybythesea.com/) Fascinating fact: The rubbery Irish moss that washes up on the beach is used as a thickener in toothpaste. You need to know: The sand dunes, which host fox dens, are extremely fragile and held in place by the tufts of marram grass. Stick to boardwalks and footpaths. Planning: 902/672-6350; area tourism information, 888/734-7529, peiplay.com/. Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Nova Scotia The highlight of the 367-square-mile park, which stretches across the top of Cape Breton Island, is a driving tour: the spectacular 66-mile section of the Cabot Trail. A roller coaster of a road flanked by ocean and forested highlands, it climbs to heights of 1,200 feet (with breathtaking coastal views), twists around hairpin turns, and sinks down to the shore, threading in and out of the park boundaries and through small communities and fishing villages. You can drive the route easily in a few hours, but with all the scenic pull-offs, hiking trails (ranging five minutes to five hours), beautiful beaches, and opportunities to spot wildlife, consider taking several days. Although the scenery is superb all along the entire Cabot Trail the most awesome coastline views can be found at the lookouts between Pleasant Bay and the southwest border of the park. When to go: Summer or autumn. Leave enough slack in your schedule for days with bad visibility--they occur often. Wildlife: Keep an eye out for roadside moose, gliding bald eagles, and highway scenic stops for whale spotting. Where to stay: The Acadian village of Chéticamp, at the park's west entrance, has a waterfront boardwalk, seafood restaurants, and crafts shops. Laurie's Motor Inn rents rooms from $72 (800/959-4253, lauries.com/). At the east gate, the best choice is the seaside community of Ingonish. Nights at Glenghorm Beach Resort start at $64 (800/565-5660, capebretonresorts.com/). Between the two, try Cape North's Country Haven B&B (from $49, 902/383-2369, bbcanada.com/countryhaven). Budget secret: The park's Highland Links Golf Course, at Ingonish Beach, was rated Canada's best public course in 2002 by Score Golf magazine (top price for 18 holes is $63, 800/441-1118, highlandslinksgolf.com/). Casual lobster meals--with a seaside view--cost just $11.50 at the Chowder House, on the main road in Neil's Harbour. The Highland Sitting Room in historic Keltic Lodge (800/565-0444), a province-run resort on a cliff overlooking Cape Smokey and the dark North Atlantic, is a gorgeous spot for a light lunch. Planning: 902/224-2360; Tourism Nova Scotia, 800/565-0000, explore.gov.ns.ca/; Cabot Trail, cabottrail.com/.

In the five German Lander (states) comprising the former German Democratic Republic, even after over a decade of rapid change, the traveler feels a visceral difference from the west; on a recent visit I had the exhilarating, sometimes disconcerting feeling I was riding in a time machine still switched on, turbulently pushing and pulling me backward and forward simultaneously. Although just a sixth of Germans reside here, things have changed so rapidly that it's impossible to know what to expect from one month to the next. Graffiti-laden, Soviet-style slums molder next to pristine Baroque masterpieces and cutting-edge office towers. And despite a big jump in prices unleashed by the one-to-one swap of the old East German currency for the mighty Deutsche mark during unification in 1990 (leading to prices significantly higher than elsewhere in the former Soviet bloc), some bargain gems still turn up more readily than in the west, like the $6-a-head dinner (with beer) at a beer garden in Dresden or $45 to overnight in one of that city's hippest hotels and neighborhoods. And a little-known fact: Many eastern German hotels offer low rates during the popular summer months in a bid to entice vacationers away from southern Europe. In the dining department, usually huge portions mean that half-portions (at half-price) are generally filling, and many German restaurants don't mind obliging. When most Americans think of the east, Berlin is the first place that comes to mind. But it's the eastern heartland south of Berlin, anchored by larger cities like Saxony's Leipzig and Dresden and smaller ones like Meissen and Weimar (the latter in neighboring Thuringia), that provide the region's true flavor-and all are immensely important in the culture and history of Germany. Dresden: A Baroque Phoenix The legacy of the hammer and sickle is still apparent here, since the Soviets had to pretty much rebuild the city from scratch after the war. Yet strenuous recent efforts have been made to restore much of the glorious architecture that in centuries past drew artists such as Canaletto and now attract increasing numbers of visitors to the Altstadt (old town), home to the famous Zwinger museum and Semperoper opera house. Meanwhile, north across the Elbe River, the Neustadt (new town) is teeming with hotels, restaurants, bars, coffeehouses, and discos, often at half the price of old town. Get around most cheaply by tram; for E16 ($15), the Dresden City Card allows 48 hours of unlimited tram travel and as a bonus provides free entrance or discounts at most museums (it also gets you between town and airport on the S-bahn, the city's metro system, for a $12 savings each way). Much of Dresden's beauty can be attributed to the eighteenth-century ruler and arts patron Augustus the Strong, whose legacies include the majestic Zwinger, a Baroque complex of arcades and pavilions famous for the world's largest clutch of Meissen porcelain, and the Old Masters Gallery, which includes Raphael's Sistine Madonna. Nearby, the Albertinum museum is especially worth a visit for its architecture and its Green Vault, which features an extraordinary jewelry collection. Both are free with the Dresden City Card. Dresden is also home to one of the most famous opera houses in the world: the stunning Semperoper. It's difficult to find ticket deals, but if you buy directly from the box office for same-day tickets, you'll eliminate tax and surcharges; prices will start around E5.50 ($5). Alternatively, the Kreuzchor boys' choir performs vespers concerts at the Kreuzkirche in the city center on Saturdays at 6 p.m. (E1/92>). You'll find plenty of music in Dresden beyond classical; one oddity worth noting is May's Dixieland festival (dixieland.de), the second largest in the world after New Orleans'. Lodging Among the cheaper options in town are private rooms, bookable through the tourist office (see box) for as little as E35 ($32). But Neustadt has recently acquired several hostels. Near the Neustadt train station, Die Boofe (Hechtstrasse 10, 0351/801-33-61, fax /801-33-62, boofe.de) opened in late 2001 with non-air-conditioned accommodations ranging from a few doubles with private bath (E22/$20) to dorms (E17/$16 a head); breakfast's E4.60 ($4.25). My choice, though, is Neustadt's hip G,stehaus Mezcalero (K"nigsbr?cker Strasse 64, 0351/81-07-70, fax /81-07-711, mezcalero.de), a Mexican-themed spot opened in 2001 with 21 vividly painted rooms that lack amenities like A/C, phone, and TV but do have fab touches like mosaic sinks; a double with shared bath is E50 ($46), with private bath E60 ($55), breakfast 44.50 ($4.15). In the same price range are an ever-increasing number of pensions of varying degrees of charm. Those in the vicinity of the Neustadt train station generally run about E25 ($23) per person per night with breakfast. For E68 ($63), the Pension Andreas (Mendelssohnallee 40-42, 0351/31-57-70, fax /31-57-755, pensionandreas.de) is a cut above. A country villa with 16 rooms on the No. 12 tram line 20 minutes from downtown in Blasewitz (an upper-crust suburb where nineteenth-century bourgeoisie once resided), it has no A/C but makes up with plenty of down-home comfort. Probably the best hotel deal in the Altstadt is the 100-room City-Herberge (Lingnerallee 3, 0351/485-99-00, fax /485-99-01, city-herberge.de), a simple but Ikea-stylish hotel conveniently close to the German Hygiene Museum; rooms have phones but no A/C (TV is an extra E3/$2.75 per night), and doubles run E63 ($58) with bath, E23-E26 ($21-$24) without; dorm-style accommodations are also available for E18 ($17). Breakfast is included, and there are a bar and a sauna. A little farther up the line on the main shopping street, Prager Strasse, are three high-rise outposts of France's spiffy no-nonsense Ibis chain (ibishotel.com), each with 306 rooms offering standard amenities, restaurant, and bar. The Ibis Bastei (0351/48-56-66-61, fax /49-54-07-6) lacks in-room A/C and costs E65-E69($60-$64) per double, while the Ibis K"nigstein (0351/48-56-66-62, fax /49-54-05-4) and the Ibis Lilienstein (0351/48-56-66-63, fax /49-52-50-6) both charge E67-E72 ($62-$66). Dining One of Dresden's best-kept secrets is the value of private cafeterias, such as those at the Neustadt train station or at the offices of the S,chsische Zeitung newspaper (Ostra-Allee 20), near the Zwinger. The higher of the two posted sets of prices (the set paid by the public) will net you hearty fare like roast chicken with a vegetable, potatoes, and a drink-all for E4 ($3.70). Or you can go ethnic. Turkish fare is popular all over Germany, and Neustadt's Babos-Kebab-Haus (Katharinenstrasse at Alaunstrasse, 0351/804-06-66) serves a delicious d"ner kebab (similar to a gyro) and other Turkish fare in a dining room with waiter service for E3.50 ($3.20) a person. Join the lively crowd enjoying the fare of the neighboring Czech Republic at the Wenzel Prager Bierstuben (K"nigstrasse 1, 0351/804-20-10), on one of Dresden's top shopping streets, north of the Elbe. Dine upstairs or downstairs or in the covered pedestrian mall outside. Best deals are found on Tuesdays and Thursdays, when you can get a full meal and a beer for E6-E7 ($5.50-$6.45). In the Altstadt, most restaurants are outrageously overpriced, but the Caf, Barococo (Altmarkt 10, 0351/862-30-40) offers a great view over the square and entrees for around E12 ($11). Meissen: Cobblestones & porcelain Although you can easily see Meissen on a day trip from Dresden (about 45 minutes by train), this small Baroque/Renaissance city in the heart of Saxony makes for a romantic overnight, having managed to hold on to much of its historic ambience. Its Albrechtsburg Castle, now a museum (adults E3.50/$3.20) and its Gothic cathedral stand proudly on the hill above town, affording a panorama of the old town's rooftops and medieval streets, now lined with boutique shops, caf,s, and wine bars. The town's main claim to fame, of course, is its Meissen porcelain (a.k.a. Dresden china), made here for centuries (Europe's first porcelain factory was founded here in 1710). The Meissen Porcelain Exhibition Hall and Demonstration Workshop (adults E7.50/$6.90), just outside the city center in Triebischtal, houses over 20,000 pieces, and porcelain church bells ring in the old town's Frauenkirche and Nikolaikirche. For a budget night in Meissen, stay on the outskirts of town at the Pension Triebischtal (Talstrasse 60, tel/fax 03521/45-38-06; E50/$46 per double room, including breakfast), a simple pension located near the porcelain factory; the 13 rooms each have their own baths. Just a short stroll from the center, the amenity-laden Hotel Goldgrund (Goldgrund 14, 03521/4-79-30, fax /47-93-44, hotel-goldgrund-meissen.de, doubles E39-E49/$36-$45) has 22 rooms delightfully set on a hill overlooking town; three smaller rooms near the kitchen go for about 40 percent less than other doubles. For a bigger investment, the payoff is huge at the classic Hotel Am Markt Residenz (An der Frauenkirche 1, 03521/4-15-10, fax /41-51-51, meissen-hotels.com), which is in the center of the old town and fully loaded from E85 ($78) per double room, breakfast included. Resisting the bratwurst vendor in the main square, I once again felt myself pulled into the past at the Domkeller, a seventeenth-century restaurant that has retained its rustic atmosphere on the hill near the palace (Domplatz 9, 03521/45-76-76; dinner E11-E16/$10-$15). The Zum Goldener Anker (Uferstrasse 9, 03521/45-78-72) along the River Elbe, a ten-minute walk from city center, is filled with locals, wrought-iron decor and large portions for E11 ($10) per person. For a snack, stop by Zieger Konditorei (on the walk toward the palace at Rote Stufen 5, 03521/45-31-47). It is only here that you can buy Meissner Fummel (E2/$1.85), a traditional fragile loaf of pastry whose recipe dates back to former ruler Augustus the Strong. Leipzig: Cosmopolitan flair While wandering Leipzig's serpentine streets and glass-roofed arcades, I was reminded that no other German city has changed so much in such a short time, and yet I felt as if I'd returned to Leipzig's glory days, prior to the Soviet blight. A graceful, dynamic center of commerce, music, and publishing for centuries, Leipzig was instrumental in launching the "Peaceful Revolution" of October 1989 when a prayer group at the Nikolaikirche (Nikolaistrasse, town center; free organ concerts Saturdays at 5 p.m.) grew to more than 10,000 people. From Leipzig's Hauptbahnhof, one of the most beautiful train stations in Europe (and the largest), you step directly into the heart of Germany's most musical city. Leipzig was home to many accomplished composers and musicians, from Bach to Wagner. This tradition continues today with the world-renowned Gewandhaus Orchestra, St. Thomas's Boys Choir, and a constant flow of music of all types. Home to Johann Sebastian Bach for over 25 years, Leipzig is perhaps best-known for the St. Thomas's Boys Choir he directed, which today performs at St. Thomas's Church (Thomaskirchhof 18, thomanerchor.de) on Saturdays at 3 p.m.; admission just E1 (92>). The world-famous Gewandhaus Orchestra, once directed by Felix Mendelssohn, performs at its own very modern concert hall on the Augustusplatz (Augustusplatz 8, 0341/12-70-280, gewandhaus.de); for the best deal at this theater-in-the-round, buy E12 ($11) tickets for the Ogelempore section, where you'll view the backs of the musicians' heads, but win a two-thirds savings over other seats. The Leipzig Opera House (Oper Leipzig, Augustusplatz 12, 0341/12-61-0) sets aside one Thursday a month as "opera day," with tickets for E11.50 ($10.60). Leipzig isn't all music. The Forum of Contemporary History museum (Grimmaische Strasse 6, hdg.de/indexeng.html; free), near the old city hall, focuses on the anti-Communist resistance from World War II through 1989. Exhibitions include videos of historic uprisings and background on the building and dismantling of the Berlin wall.As is the case in Dresden, the Leipzig City Card (one day E5/$4.60) allows travel on the entire tram system as well as free or discounted admission to most museums. Lodging Behind an anonymous green facade close to the city center, a good rock-bottom option is the rustic International Guesthouse (Mendelssohn Strasse 7, 0341/22-84-817), which rents three large rooms with up to eight beds in each for E15 ($14) per person. A kitchen is available; breakfast is E3.50 ($3.20). In the Eutritzscher neighborhood, the 80-room Prodomo Hotel (Gr,festrasse 15a, 0341/9-03-50, fax /90-35-113, prodomo-hotels.de) offers standard amenities (except A/C) for E67 ($62), with breakfast. Book directly to avoid fees. About a 15-minute walk from the city center is the Lutherburg Pension (Wittenberger Strasse 26 at Schiebestrasse, 0341/90-15-133), located above a quaint eatery. Each of its five rooms will set you back E49 ($45), with breakfast, phone, TV, and shower (but again, no A/C). Given that it's central and impeccably comfortable, consider paying a little more (E53-E66/$49-$61) for the 126-room Ibis Zentrum (Br?hl 69, 0341/21-86-0, fax /21-86-222, ibishotel.com), located near the main train station. For more luxury without breaking die Bank, the Vivaldi Hotel, not far away (Wittenberger Strasse 87, 0341/90-36-0, fax /90-36-234, hotel-vivaldi.de), is a beautiful Italian-themed hotel in a residential area surrounded by restaurants, a supermarket and bakery; doubles are E66-E75 ($61-$69), including breakfast. Dining Beneath the city hall near the main square, the atmospheric Ratskeller (Lotterstrasse 1/Neues Rathaus, 0341/12-34-567) leavens E3-E7 ($2.75-$6.45) entr,es with E9 ($8.30) all-you-can-eat dinners on Fridays, 5-8 p.m. There's a two-course-plus-dessert dinner menu Monday through Thursday for E10 ($9.20) and a E5 ($4.60) lunch. You can definitely save some cash at Leipzig's popular "potato restaurants," serving spuds accompanied by the likes of bratwurst or broccoli. The Kartoffelhaus, right off the main square near Thomaskirche (Barfussg,sschen 12, 0341/960-46-03) is filled with tchotchkes and potato-loving Germans; though it's not quite gourmet fare, the location and price (E9/$8.30 per meal) are right. Another good choice is the Lutherburg Restaurant (Wittenberger Strasse 26 at Schiebestrasse, 0341/90-15-133), on the ground floor of the pension of the same name. Here neighborhood families pack in plenty of authentic German fare for about E5 ($4.60) a person. You can also get amply fed for about E15 ($14) at one of Leipzig's most famous haunts, the noble Coffe Baum, just behind the main square (Kleine Fleischergasse 4, 0341/96-10-061), which has hosted many of the city's famous residents through the centuries. Germany's first coffeehouse (dating to 1694), this historical spot houses a too-fancy restaurant upstairs but a more casual and less pricey dining area downstairs. Weimar: High culture & low barbarism Impossible to separate from Germany's foremost literary figure, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, this tiny, genteel city about an hour by train from Leipzig is a paradox. Traditionally the center of classical German literature, music, and art, it hosted the likes of Bach, Schiller, Liszt, Luther, and Lucas Cranach the Elder. Yet after giving its name to the famously wobbly Weimar Republic between the World Wars, it was then branded by Hitler, who held the second national congress of the Nazi party here and built the Buchenwald concentration camp three miles from town (take bus No. 6; free admission). Easy to navigate on foot, Weimar is loaded with museums and historic homes, among them Goethe's house in the city center (Frauenplan 1; E6/$5.50); his garden house (Park an der Ilm, E2.50/$2.30); Schiller's house (Schillerstrasse 12, E3/$2.75), where he wrote William Tell; and Liszt's house (Marienstrasse 17, E2/$1.85). It was also in Weimar that the Bauhaus movement formed, and examples of the style can be seen around town as well as at the Bauhaus Museum on the main square (Theaterplatz; E3/$2.75). Yet more Kultur? Weimar's also the site of the second largest collection of the works of Shakespeare in numerous languages (Herzogin Anna Amalia Bibliothek, Platz der Demokratie 1; free) and it was the final home to philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche (Nietzsche Archives, Humboldtstrasse 36, E2/$1.85). In the evening, a bustling local university means great pubs and an active nightlife. The best deal in town is actually on a hill overlooking town: the traditional Pension Villa Gisela (Wilhelm-K?lz-Strasse 35, 03643/88-68-0, fax /88-68-9, doubles E42-E54/$39-$50, including breakfast). Each of its six rooms, including one for disabled guests, provides private bath, TV, and phone, and hosts Gisela and Helmut will pick you up from the train station upon request. In town, not far from that train station, the Pension Savina (Meyerstrasse 60, 03643/86-69-0, fax /86-69-11, pension-savina.de, E55-E73/$51-$67 per person, including breakfast) is rather dark, but its 15 rooms have private baths and ample amenities; you can also fix your own meals in a small shared kitchen. Near the city center and a great base for exploring, the Hotel & Gasthaus "Zur Sonne" (Rollplatz 2, 03643/80-04-10, fax /86-29-32, weimar.de/sonne, E66-E77/$61-71 per double room, with breakfast) offers all amenities except A/C, plus a basic but tasty restaurant which, unusually, boasts a salad bar (three-course lunch E3.50/$3.20, dinner E10/$9.20). My own favorite digs were at the K"stritzer Schwarzbierhaus Restaurant and Pension (Scherfgasse 4, 03643/77-93-37, fax /77-93-39, koestritzer-schwarzbierhaus-weimar.de; doubles E75/$69, including breakfast and parking), housed in the oldest half-timbered building in Weimar's center, with small uneven doors and original wood floors. Its eight, large, newly renovated rooms have private baths, and there's a beer hall/restaurant downstairs with classic German food (meals as little as E12/$11) and jazz music. Go East, junger mann To call the numbers in this article from the United States, drop the initial zero and replace it with 011-49. Before leaving, get information from the German National Tourist Office at 212/661-7200 or visits-to-germany.com. Individual city sites: dresden.de, meiland.de/meissen, leipzig.de, and weimar.de. Your best airfare deals are via Frankfurt; typical round-trip airfares out of New York are roughly $800 in summer and $600 in winter. Onward air connections on Lufthansa (800/645-3880, lufthansa.com) to Dresden will run $85 each way, and to Leipzig $79. Or train it on Deutsche Bahn (bahn.de), which offers a reasonably priced pass ($165 for any four days of second-class travel within one month); the InterCity Express (ICE) from Frankfurt gets you to Leipzig in 31_2 hours and to Dresden in 41_2 hours.

The Real Deal: Roundtrip airfare from Washington Dulles airport to Johannesburg, South Africa for $807 When: July 4-Aug. 15, 2005 Gateways: Washington, D.C. Details: The prices vary depending on the date of travel. Book By: July 29, 2005 Contact: South African Airways, flysaa.com Residents of our capital -- or anyone else departing from D.C. -- save the big bucks when traveling this summer to South Africa. When the average roundtrip ticket from Washington, D.C., starts from $1,788 on multiple carriers (American and South African) with two stops, South African Airways will take you on a direct flight to Johannesburg for less than half the price ($807), if you book by August 9. The sale is valid for travel between July 4 and August 15, given you depart on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday from Washington Dulles airport, and on Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Sunday from Johannesburg and stay between five and 30 days.

Prices in Alaska during summer can be crazy, we won't lie to you (full disclosure: the bugs can be awfully hungry in summer too). Hotels and transportation may be double or more than their winter rates. Alaskan businesses have to make up in the tourist-popular summer what they lose in the locals-only wintertime. But don't worry, we'll show you some of the secrets in visiting the southcentral region of Alaska and Anchorage cheaply in its glorious and, yes, warm summer (temperatures in the 60s to 80s). In this, the state with the lowest population density in the U.S. (less than one person per square mile, compared to over 1,000 people per square mile in New Jersey), and where two-thirds of the land mass is set aside as protective wilderness, the idea of a city is a novelty. But Anchorage is just that--a sprawling, very American metropolis with gleaming buildings built during the oil-rich '80s, and fast food restaurants, mini malls, and an espresso stand on every corner (to help the residents keep up with the eternal summer sunshine, day and night). Sure, its utilitarian aura may not make it the most attractive city in the U.S., but what other city may have moose strolling through its downtown, or bears living in its suburbs? Alaska's epic wilderness may overwhelm the entire state and its inhabitants, but Anchorage puts up a good fight. It's an entire city (and a rather new one, having been established in 1914) carved directly out of nature. Nearly half of the state's population of 600,000 reside here. Rare is the tourist who comes to Alaska just to see Anchorage. But almost every tourist spends a good amount of time here since this is where nearly everyone flies in and out of, and sets up excursions to the wilderness in the surrounding southcentral part of the state. In fact, you can get an excellent dose of nature by simply doing day trips out of Anchorage, which many tourists do. Anchorage is a rambling, friendly town, filled with stoic parking lots, refurbished wooden houses, flashy skyscrapers, and a spacious, mellow atmosphere. And Anchorage has more hidden treasures to it than its first Spartan impression gives you. All that oil money has been put to good use, funneled into arts centers, museums, civic halls, and well-maintained parks. And unlike most tourist towns, the locals love hanging out with people from "Outside" (meaning anywhere outside Alaska) and divulging local secrets. First, when planning to visit Alaska anytime before October (the weather stays nice through September), book early, since this is high high season. Although Anchorage has the largest selection of lodging in the state, even the banal Econolodge starts at $120 a night for a blah room. So stay away from the Sheratons and Days Inns and look to Anchorage's great accommodation secret: B&Bs that are scattered all around town, even in tourist-popular downtown. They're cheaper and lot more fun than brand hotels, and you have built-in hosts to fill you in on the hows and whys of the city. Check out anchorage-bnb.com/ for a complete list of B&Bs. One highly recommended one is the B&B on the Park (800/353-0878, bedandbreakfastonthepark.net/). It's a full fledge log cabin right in the heart of Anchorage, looking somewhat like a wooden fort. Run by long-time residents Helen and Stella, you're served a full homemade breakfast in the dining room, animal skins adorn the walls, and the rates start at just $100 a night. If you're willing to stay a little north of town in the Eagle Creek area, there is the Alaska Chalet B&B (877/694-1528, alaskachaletbb.com/), with summer rates starting at an amazing $55 for their "Rise and Shine" room, paneled in cedar wood and including a private bath, TV, phone and fridge and a quilted, homey feel. The house is wooden too, with an outside deck with mountain views all around. For $95 a night for a double, the popular Oscar Gill House (907/279-1344,oscargill.com/) is a great deal. Built in 1913, this historic downtown B&B offers Body Shop toiletries, family-style breakfasts, and three rooms with clawfoot bathtubs and antique furnishings. Or for a splurge that's worth every penny, check out the Copper Whale (888-WHALE-IN, copperwhale.com/), one of the best B&Bs in the state, with a wonderful garden complete with espresso bar, incredible views of the inlet, spacious rooms, and a super helpful staff. Rooms start at $125 in the summer for a double. And don't just leave Anchorage in a mad rush to see Alaska's stunning wilderness. The city can prep you for your wilderness adventures quite well with its well-oiled infrastructure (pun intended!). Your first stop before you even get to Anchorage should be the excellent web site travelalaska.com/, overflowing with maps, food and lodging info, public parks details, events, packages, and more. After you get your fill online, stop by the visitors center housed in rustic log cabin along 4th Avenue in the heart of the downtown (907/276-4118 anchorage.net/). You can't miss it--it's the only building in Anchorage with tall flowers and grasses growing from its roof! After that, you'll want to check out some of Anchorage's museums and attractions that will educate you about the state so you know what you're looking at later. The Alaska Native Heritage Center (907/330-8000, alaskanative.net/) is a bit expensive at $20.95 a head, but for those interested in the ancient cultures of Alaska, it's a must. You can watch artists at work, and daily programs include traditional storytelling, dances, games, and clothing and canoe presentations. Less interactive but much cheaper is the Anchorage Museum of History and Art (907/343-6173, anchoragemuseum.org/, $6.50), full of contemporary Alaskan art, ancient crafts, and historical photographs. It's fun if for nothing else the fact that you can walk through life-size dioramas of detailed and authentic native homes. It may seem strange to visit a zoo in a city where wild critters roam freely everywhere, but be sure to stop by the Alaska Zoo (4731 O'Malley Road, 907/346-2133, alaskazoo.org/, $9), since it may be your only chance to see a real Alaskan polar bear (they are only found way north of Anchorage). You'll also see other wolverines and native grizzlies here--a much better option than on a hiking trail! For local eats, try the Snow City Café (4th Avenue and L Street, 907/272-2489, snowcitycafe.com/), a low key but hip hangout with lots of windows and fake snowflakes dangling from the ceiling. Prices range from $5-$10 for breakfasts and lunch (it closes at 2 PM), and be sure to try the signature (and huge) Crabby Omelet stuffed with Alaskan Dungeness crab for $9.95. Another must is the Bear's Tooth Theatre Pub (1230 W. 27th Ave., 907/276-4200, beartooththeatre.net/), with Lemon Greek Salads for $7.95, Asian Chicken Wraps for $6.95, and Chipotle Steak Burritos for $7.95. But the best thing about Bear's Tooth is that you can munch on these yummies while watching $3 Hollywood movies in their full-fledge theater! (Leave it to the Alaskans to refine the art of enjoying themselves indoors.) And Anchorage has quite the nightclub and lounge scene too. Stop by Bernie's Bungalow (626 D Street, 907/276-8808, berniesbungalowlounge.com/), a local hotspot with a hopping outdoor patio where the cool of Anchorage sip on martinis and Alaskan brews while listening to live music and gossiping. So don't bolt out of Anchorage just because the hinterland is calling--this American outpost has many hidden budget treasures for those willing to look beyond its no-nonsense façade.