Honolulu: Beaches

December 14, 2005

SEE Sans Souci Beach
Between New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel (2863 Kalakaua Ave.) and Waikiki War Memorial Natatorium, Waikiki Beach
Nicknamed Dig Me Beach for all the hardbodies on display, its literal French translation is "without a care." Preening Adonises parade along the beach, while out in the water, long-distance swimmers, outrigger paddlers, and triathletes train. Great swimming year-round.

PLAY Gray's Beach
In front of the Halekulani hotel, 2199 Kalia Rd., Waikiki Beach
Find it by following the walkway alongside the Halekulani. There are two surf breaks offshore: Paradise and Threes. The narrow beach can disappear at high tide. Fun for swimming and people watching; gear rentals available.

PLAY Queen's Surf
Enter across from Kapiolani Park, Waikiki Beach, 808/923-1094
Open-air screenings of free movies (both new releases and classics) each weekend. Arrive just before sunset with a towel or beach chair; dinner is sold on site. Call for a schedule.

PLAY Kuhio Beach Park
From the Waikiki Beach Center (corner of Kalakaua and Uluniu Aves.) to Kapahulu Ave.
The protected cove is kid-friendly, and the nearby Waikiki Beach Center offers restrooms, showers, lockers, and equipment rentals. Further west, in front of the Sheraton Moana Surfrider, you can ride the surf in an outrigger canoe (Aloha Beach Desk, 808/922-3111; $10 for 25 minutes). Canoe's, a nearby shore break, is the one of the best beginner surf spots.

PLAY Ala Moana Beach Park
Across from the Ala Moana Center (1450 Ala Moana Blvd.)
After Waikiki, this huge beach park is Honolulu's most popular; weekend family picnics near the barbecue pits give it a local feel. The protective reef creates a lagoon perfect for doing laps.

PLAY Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve
7455 Kalanianaole Hwy., southeast of Honolulu
The reefs of this underwater volcano crater teem with tropical fish, making it a hotspot for snorkeling. One of the country's most beautiful beaches, Hanauma is always packed. To beat the crowds, go early in the morning or in the late afternoon. Rent snorkeling gear at the educational center. No smoking. Closed Tues. Entry fee $5, parking $1.

ESCAPES

Kailua Beach
Enter along Kawailoa Rd., between Lihiwai Rd. and Aalapapa Dr., Kailua
Windsurfing is Kailua's big draw, but this two-mile long beach also has great swimming and sunbathing. Just southeast is Lanikai Beach (access from Mokulua Dr.), where you can paddle out to the tiny Mokulua Islands, home to bird sanctuaries. Rent from Kailua Sailboards & Kayaks (130 Kailua Rd., 808/262-2555, kailuasailboards.com; $39 for half-day single kayak rental, $49 for half-day double; guided tours from $89).

The North Shore
During its October-to-April epic swells, when waves easily reach 20 feet or more, surfers from all corners congregate at Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach, and the notorious Banzai Pipeline. Contests allow enthusiasts to grab a free, safe seat in the sand and watch the pros rip, get barreled, and wipe out. (Swimmers need not despair-there are plenty of summer days when waves are flat and waders rule.) Prime snorkeling in the non-winter months can be found at Shark's Cove in Pupukea, a good alternative to popular Hanauma Bay. One of the Shore's largest towns is Haleiwa, a hippie holdover marked by some surf shops, a few battered shacks, and an occasional handwritten sign (mango pickles for sale). In the back of Celestial Natural Foods lies Paradise Found, a vegetarian café with a local following (66-443 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-4540). The landmark Matsumoto's Shave Ice specializes in a version of what mainlanders call snow cones (66-087 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-4827). There's a staggering selection of mix-and-match bikinis at North Shore Swimwear (66-250 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-7000) and gear of all sorts at Surf N Sea (62-595 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-9887, surfnsea.com).

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Honolulu: Eat & Drink

EAT Diamond Head Market and Grill 3158 Monsarrat Ave., 808/732-0077A health-conscious lunch spot. Order a grilled ahi sandwich to go, or sit inside and nosh on specials like the mochiko chicken bento. The blueberry scones make for a memorable breakfast, too. EAT Kaka'ako KitchenWard Centre, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd., 808/596-7488The best local cuisine ever to be served on a Styrofoam plate, and the most affordable way to sample chef Russell Siu's latest creations. The ingredients used here-Nalo salad greens and fresh ahi, for example-also show up on the menu at 3660 on the Rise (3660 Waialae Ave, 808/737-1177, 3660.com), Kaka'ako's older and more expensive cousin. EAT Eggs 'n Things1911-B Kalakaua Ave., 808/949-0820It's breakfast only at this surfing-themed joint. The egg and pancake specials start flying at 11 p.m. and keep coming until 2 p.m. the next day. Expect all walks of life after hours, from musicians and chefs just off work to famished insomniacs. EAT Jimbo's 1936 S. King St., 808/947-2211Jimbo Motojima's place is a well-kept secret-few tourists know about its awesome homemade rice, soba, and udon noodles, served with smoky broth and extras like shrimp tempura, vegetables, and seaweed. Warning: Lunch lines are long. Advice: Call ahead for take-out. EAT Leonard's Bakery 933 Kapahulu Ave., 808/737-5591An institution since the 1950s, and known for fresh-out-of-the-fryer Portuguese malassadas and malassada puffs. Only the coconut-haupia or guava-custard filling in the malassada puffs lets you know you're not in Lisbon. EAT Ono Hawaiian Foods 726 Kapahulu Ave., 808/737-2275Locals line up here for the authentic pork laulau (the meat is wrapped in taro leaves and steamed) and poke (a seviche-like dish). Ono adds its own twist to poi (a paste made from taro) by fermenting it slightly; add a little sugar and it tastes as good as yogurt. EAT Rainbow Drive-In3308 Kanaina Ave., 808/737-0177A Honolulu favorite since 1961 and one of the best places to try a Hawaiian-style plate lunch: your choice of a main dish (such as teriyaki beef or boneless chicken) plus two sides, usually one scoop of macaroni salad and two scoops of white rice. EAT You Hungry 1695-D Kapiolani Blvd., 808/949-8707Visitors are unlikely to hear much pidgin spoken in the islands-it's more of a private language for locals-but the Hawaiian restaurant You Hungry provides a taste. Instead of regular and large, the menu distinguishes between "sorta hungry" and "hungry" portions; a toothpick jar is labeled like pick teet? SPLURGE Hau Tree LanaiInside the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kalakaua Ave., 808/921-7066Outdoor seating on the Gold Coast of Waikiki (at the Diamond Head end of Kapiolani Park). The Pacific Rim specialties like garlic seared ahi or mango-marinated pork chops are particularly good. Reservations are a must; request one of the romantic oceanfront tables. THE VERY BEST MAI TAIThe quintessential Hawaiian cocktail, the mai tai (Tahitian for "the very best") was actually created in California at the tiki-themed chain restaurant Trader Vic's in 1944. The recipe didn't make its way to the islands until the '50s. Though the fruity rum concoction has gradually devolved into a cough-syrupy mess, a handful of hotel bartenders still know how to mix up the real deal. House Without a Key is the hands-down favorite. Its version has a slight hint of almond, and is served over crushed ice with fresh mint, purple orchid, lime, and a sugar cane stirrer (Halekulani hotel, 2199 Kalia Rd, 808/923-2311). Four runners-up: Hau Tree Lanai (Kaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kalakaua Ave., 808/921-7066), Mai Tai Bar (Royal Hawaiian Hotel, 2259 Kalakaua Ave., 808/923-7311), The Banyan Veranda (Sheridan Moana Surfrider, 2365 Kalakaua Ave., 808/922-3111), and Barefoot Bar (Hale Koa Hotel, 2055 Kalia Rd., 808/955-0555).

Honolulu: Sleep

All hotels are in Waikiki. Rooms have air-conditioning, private baths, and TVs. Aqua Kuhio Village2463 Kuhio Ave., 866/406-2782 or 808/791-7171, aquaresorts.comA very recently renovated "condotel" three and a half blocks from the beach. Some rooms have partial ocean views. Sister property Aqua Bamboo (2425 Kuhio Ave., 866/406-2782 or 808/922-7777) is just down the street. Doubles (at either property) from $99. ResortQuest Coconut Plaza Hotel450 Lewers St., 800/922-7866 or 808/923-8828, resortquesthawaii.comMost rooms at this boutique hotel have balconies, and all but the standard doubles have kitchenettes. Light sleepers should ask for a mountain view facing away from Ala Wai Boulevard. There's a small pool with a sundeck; the beach is four blocks away. Doubles from $79 (book on the hotel's website). The Breakers250 Beach Walk, 800/426-0494 or 808/923-3181, breakers-hawaii.comA perfectly preserved 1950s relic half a block from the beach. Some rooms have Japanese-style-sliding shoji screens that hide tiny kitchens and spacious closets. The back lanais of a few face the Urasenke Tea House, providing a view of traditional tea ceremonies. There's a small pool. Doubles from $99. Hawaiiana Hotel260 Beach Walk, 800/367-5122 or 808/923-3811, hawaiianahotelatwaikiki.comAnother vintage hotel, slightly larger than its neighbor The Breakers. A social clientele hangs around the two small pools, which are surrounded by lava-rock walls and tropical plants. Rooms are nothing special, but all have kitchenettes. Doubles from $105. Queen Kapiolani Hotel 150 Kapahulu Ave., 800/367-2317 or 808/922-4671, queenkapiolani.com The 315 rooms have standard hotel decor; there's a big pool, plus a restaurant and lounge. The cheapest rates ($72) go three months in advance. Spring for a deluxe ocean-view room (from $105)-they're bigger, and the best ones have views of both Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head. A special room-and-rental-car package can be as low as $79 a day. Royal Grove Hotel151 Uluniu Ave., 808/923-7691, royalgrovehotel.comThis hot-pink hotel is Honolulu's best budget bet. Rooms are vast and sunny, with kitchenettes and full-size fridges. The setting feels like something out of Beach Blanket Bingo, with a small courtyard pool and surfboards hanging in the lobby. Doubles from $45 without A/C; from $62 with A/C. SPLURGE ResortQuest Waikiki Beach Hotel2570 Kalakaua Ave., 800/877-7666, resortquesthawaii.comRooms in the main tower have bright aloha prints and lanais overlooking Kuhio Beach, which is across the street. Breakfast is included-borrow a cooler and chairs and eat it picnic-style on the beach. On the second floor, Tiki's Grill & Bar offers live Hawaiian music daily in the mornings. Doubles from $141 (if you book on the hotel's website). SPLURGE Waikiki Parc Hotel2233 Helumoa Rd., 800/422-0450 or 808/921-7272, waikikiparc.comThe best reasons to stay here: location and service. It's 100 yards from the beach-many rooms have spectacular views-and across the street from Honolulu's premier hotel, the Halekulani. They're owned by the same folks, so the operation is flawless. Rooms have the spare, retro vibe common in Waikiki; what makes them memorable are the floor-to-ceiling shuttered windows. Eighth-floor pool and small exercise room. Doubles from $160, including breakfast. GEARING UPThe ubiquitous ABC Stores may have everything Waikiki visitors need, but venture downtown for the best deals. Foodland (Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., 808/949-5044) is the most accessible alternative to the priced-for-tourists Food Pantry grocery store in Waikiki. Wal-Mart, across from Ala Moana Shopping Center, is the place to go for goggles, flippers, boogie boards, beach towels, and coolers (700 Keeaumoku St., 808/955-8441). Keep in mind: Nothing is cheap in Hawaii; prices will be considerably higher on than the mainland. True bargain hunters can stock up upon arrival at Costco, halfway between the airport and Waikiki, just off the N. Nimitz Highway (525 Alakawa St., 808/526-6103, membership required).

Honolulu: Essentials

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Airport Waikiki Express 808/539-9400, robertshawaii.com/hat.htmThe 24-hour shuttle departs just outside baggage claim and makes trips to and from all Waikiki hotels every 30 minutes. Reserve in advance for return trip. $8 one way, $14 round trip. Fare covers two pieces of luggage per person. Additional bag, golf bag, stroller, or boogie board, $3; surfboard, $12; bicycle, $18. Star Taxi800/671-2999 or 808/942-7827, hawaiistartaxi.netAptly named, this company charges the lowest rates of any on the island: $25 for up to five passengers and their luggage traveling between the airport and any hotel in Waikiki (versus $30-plus for any other taxi, plus additional luggage charges). Pickup is outside baggage claim. Book in advance and pay cash. GETTING AROUND TheBus 808/848-5555, thebus.orgA visitor pass, sold at ABC Stores, will grant four days of unlimited rides on public buses all around the island. No more than one carry-on per person permitted; bikes must go on the racks. $2 per ride, $20 for a four-day pass. TaxisHailing cabs on the street isn't allowed (though it's sometimes done). Call for a pickup; wait times can be up to 30 minutes. Up to five passengers; $2.45 for the first 1/8 mile and 35¢ for every 1/8 thereafter, plus 45¢ for each small piece of luggage. Star Taxi (info above) is the best of the lot. Request a taxi that accepts credit cards or one with wheelchair accessibility from TheCab (808/422-2222). BicyclesBig Kahuna Motorcycle Tours and Rentals 407 Seaside Ave., 888/451-5544 or 808/924-2736, bigkahunarentals.comWhile Waikiki is flat, not all its roads have bike lanes, and anyone who wants to cycle farther afield should be experienced with traffic and hills. Big Kahuna's mountain-bike rentals include helmets and road maps. $10 for four hours; $20 for 24 hours. Moped rentals start at $25 for four hours; scooters and motorcycles at $65. A motorcycle license is required for scooter and motorcycle rentals. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN Free on the streets   Honolulu Weekly, honoluluweekly.com At the newsstands   Honolulu Advertiser, honoluluadvertiser.com   Honolulu Star-Bulletin, honolulustarbulletin.com   Honolulu Magazine, honolulumagazine.com Civil Beat, http://www.civilbeat.com Tune in   KINE 105.1 FM (traditional and modern Hawaiian music) TOURS Hawaii Food Tours800/715-2468 or 808/926-3663, hawaiifoodtours.comTour guide Matthew Gray, a former restaurant/food critic for the Honolulu Advertiser, leads "Hole-in-the-Wall," a tour unmasking places (and dishes) tourists rarely try. Two other themed itineraries available. Call for reservations. Daily from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. $59, includes hotel pickup/drop-off. Chinese Chamber of Commerce of Hawaii Chinatown tours42 N. King St., 808/533-3181, ccchi.orgGet the inside story on an exotic area that boomed after Chinese laborers came to work on Hawaii's sugar and pineapple plantations in the 1850s. Though the neighborhood has been devastated by fire twice, it still boasts the best architecture on the island. Two-and-a-half-hour guided tours depart Tuesdays at 9:30 a.m. $10. Oahu Nature Tours808/924-2473, oahunaturetours.comBird-watchers and other outdoorsy types can make the uphill climb to Diamond Head Crater ($20), trek to Manoa Falls ($37), or choose from seven other fully guided hikes. Prices include hotel pickup/drop-off. SPLURGE Wild Side Specialty ToursWaianae Boat Harbor, Slip A-11, 808/306-7273, sailhawaii.comAmong hordes of whale-watching tours and day cruises, Wild Side's small mom-and-pop operation gets points for being one of the most eco-friendly. The four-hour morning tours involve snorkeling near Hawaii's spinner dolphins-and, from December through April, include whale-watching. There's a 16-person limit, so book ahead. $95. SPLURGE Island Seaplane Service85 Lagoon Dr., 808/836-6273, islandseaplane.comGet a bird's-eye view of the dramatic volcanic terrain and a look at the two mountain ranges the Japanese negotiated to attack Pearl Harbor. Takeoffs and landings at Keehi Lagoon. $179 per person for a one-hour tour; $99 per person for a half-hour tour. Includes hotel pickup/drop-off. NUMBERS TO KNOW   Room Service in Paradise 808/941-3463, rsiponline.com   For food deliveries by more than a dozen area restaurants   Surf News Network Surfline 808/596-7873

If You Want That Pillow, You're Gonna Have to Pay

All it took was a few decades of bankruptcies, mergers, fare wars, and government bailouts for the message to finally sink in: The old airline business model just doesn't work. Throughout the industry, carriers are concentrating on efficiency, and that often means free meals, magazines, and pillows are goners. Travelers today are greeted with all-new costs--$2 for curbside check-in, $5 for a sandwich, $25 to fly standby, and more. "If the airlines could get away with it, they'd charge us for the air we breathe," says Christopher Elliott, a consumer travel expert and editor of Tripso.com. "The planes would probably have coin-operated toilets." Food and drink A complimentary hot meal used to be standard on long-haul domestic flights, but now it's the exception. In 2003, US Airways started asking $7 for breakfast and $10 for lunch or dinner. The move proved unpopular enough for the airline to drop prices by a couple bucks, but most competitors eventually followed suit. These days, expect to pay for anything more than a teeny bag of chips. And sometimes, you don't even get that without forking over some cash--Northwest yanked its free half-ounce bags of pretzels last June, saving (according to the airline) $2 million a year. Its passengers now pay $1 for a bag of raisins and mixed nuts; $3 for a snack box with a granola bar, cookies, crackers, and cheese; and $5 for a sandwich. Menus and prices are similar on many American, America West, and United flights. Obviously, bringing your own food or eating before boarding eliminates the expense, and you get to control the menu. With all other factors equal, consider flying Continental. At this point, it's the lone holdout among major carriers, still serving full meals on the longer domestic routes and charging passengers nothing--though some people say that's what the food is worth. Most international flights still include meals and drinks, even booze, but who knows how long it'll last? Air Jamaica used to serve free beer and wine, but as of last July those in coach have to pay $2 for a Red Stripe and $3 for a tiny bottle of wine (though everyone receives a complimentary glass of champagne). Baggage Over the past two years, most airlines quietly lowered their free weight allowance on checked bags from 70 pounds to 50 pounds apiece, and agents are enforcing the rules like never before. The standard fee is $25 for bags that weigh 51--70 pounds, and $50 for those weighing 71-100 pounds. (Many carriers won't accept anything over 100 pounds.) "The airlines say they had to change the weight limits because the heavier bags were a danger to their employees," says Joe Brancatelli, an industry watchdog and editor of joesentme.com. "But I guess if you give them $25, they're willing to put their workers at risk." The restrictions are notoriously tough on Europe's low-fare carriers. EasyJet, for example, allows free checked luggage up to 44 pounds per passenger (not per bag) and charges almost $4 for each additional pound. Ryanair and others regularly enforce carry-on weight limits, too. What's most frustrating about the baggage allowance is that there's little consistency, even within a single airline. On transatlantic connections, British Airways, Alitalia, Iberia, Aer Lingus, and a few other European carriers allow bags weighing up to 70 pounds, free of charge. But if you buy a ticket flying only within Europe, the baggage rules are different. For instance, if you purchased a British Airways flight from London to Rome (but not a transatlantic leg to go along with it), you'd have to pay extra for bags weighing more than 51 pounds. Then again, the days of European airlines allowing 70-pound bags on transatlantic flights seem to be numbered: Lufthansa and Air France lowered their baggage limits to 50 pounds in November, matching the restrictions set by most U.S. carriers. To get around the new rules, check two lighter bags rather than one heavy one, to make sure you don't get hit with a fee. If you'd rather pack a single bag, here's a safety valve: Stick an empty duffel bag in your suitcase; if the airline tries to charge you extra, redistribute weight to the duffel and check it as your second piece of luggage. Inquire ahead of time about bringing anything large or unusual on a flight--you're usually charged for scuba gear and bikes, but not for golf bags or ski equipment. Two airlines offer considerably more leeway. Southwest may have started charging for bags over 50 pounds a year ago, but it continues to allow passengers to check three bags. (Most carriers require $80 for the privilege.) And JetBlue doesn't charge unless a bag weighs more than 70 pounds. Entertainment Free magazines on planes have disappeared, notably on American and Northwest. Still, there are now many more options for passing the time than the old $3 in-flight movie. Alaska Airlines rents digital media players that show first-run movies and reruns of The Simpsons and other programs for $10. Frontier Airlines offers DirecTV for $5 and a choice of movies for $8. JetBlue charges $5 for movies, though it has free DirecTV. For that matter, there's plenty of gratis entertainment: AirTran and JetBlue have XM Satellite Radio (though AirTran charges $3 for headsets, and you keep them); American and Continental offer TV shows and movies at no charge (BYO headphones, or pay $5 or $2 respectively to buy a set); and United has free programming with loaner headsets. Whichever airline you're flying, bring your own headphones--they're bound to be better than the ones onboard. Curbside Check-in After a test period last year in which United charged passengers $2 per bag for skycap service at big, hectic airports such as O'Hare, the airline now makes customers pay for curbside check-in on all flights. Northwest and Alaska Airlines also charge $2 for the service at select airports, as does American, which added on the fee at one of its main hubs, Dallas--Fort Worth, in December. Passengers can either pay the extra cash (along with a tip, because the new fees don't go directly to the skycaps) or wait in line inside the terminal. Flying Standby To officially switch a flight at the last minute, you used to be subject to a fee of $100 or more, even if you were only shifting departure times by a few hours. The other option was to fly standby, which was free but risky--if a flight was full, there was nothing you could do. American, Northwest, and US Airways are now charging $25 to confirm you'll be on an alternate flight leaving the same day. They heralded the $25 charge as a cheaper alternative to the full change fee, but they certainly could confirm standby seats for free if they were chiefly interested in providing better service and making customers happy. There's fine print for the new offer: American Airlines, for example, lets you make the $25 change only if your new flight is within three hours of the original one. Winging it remains an option--go to the airport, ask a nice agent what your chances are, and wait. Or fly JetBlue (change fees start at only $20) or Southwest (which doesn't charge at all). Pillows and Blankets Many airlines removed pillows and blankets as a money saver and now sell all kinds of things on flights, including (surprise) pillows and blankets. In November, Air Canada started offering a $2 kit that includes an inflatable plastic pillow, pillowcase, and lightweight blanket. In December, flight attendants on Ted, United's low-cost carrier, began hawking $10 sleep kits (earplugs, eyeshade, socks, and an inflatable pillow), as well as $20 bracelets, $25 sunglasses, and other merchandise. Independence Air defends its practice of selling blankets and U-shaped pillows for $10 apiece. "It's better to provide amenities à la carte so that they're not automatically added into the cost of services," says Rick DeLisi, director of corporate communications. "These are high-quality products, at prices that are less than those at the airport gift shop or a fancy store in the mall." The airline didn't save enough to keep it from filing for bankruptcy in November. Upgrades and Using Miles It'll sometimes cost more than just frequent-flier miles to get an upgrade--or even a seat. In the past, miles alone were enough to trade for a flight or upgrade. But American Airlines charges 25,000 miles and $250 for upgrades on some international flights, while you'll have to pay a $50 late fee for using miles within two weeks of departure on Continental, Delta, and others. A few airlines sell mini-upgrades. For $15--$100 more than standard coach, Spirit Airlines offers Spirit Plus seats--which have 37 inches of legroom, leather seats, and priority boarding and check-in. Likewise, SAS, Virgin Blue (which flies Down Under and in the South Pacific), and Martinair (offering connections between Amsterdam and Florida) are all charging extra for roomier seats. United's Economy Plus seats, with three to five inches of extra legroom, used to go automatically to loyal customers, but now anyone can pay $299 annually for a shot at the first-come-first-served seats. Instead of assigning seats, Southwest lets passengers choose their own in three rounds, based on who's checked in earliest. Now, even that's for sale. For $5, a company called Boardfirst.com ensures you're in the first round of seating.