I Married a Non-Traveler

By Dana Lucero
April 26, 2008
0806_married
To celebrate our 10th anniversary, we invited readers to pitch us ideas, and we sent five of them on assignment. This writer took her husband to Mexico for a relaxing vacation with a side of adventure.

About the author
Dana Lucero, 32, manages public involvement for light-rail projects in the Portland, Ore., area. Her husband, BJ Moghadam, 33, is a government-affairs rep for an energy utility. "I once said to my husband, 'You know that air that widely traveled people have? I want that.' BJ says he wants it, too, but while my goal is to see and do new things, his is to relax. My travel résumé is modest, but I've had those hysterical, scary, stirring moments. BJ doesn't know what he's saying 'nah' to. So I've made a five-step plan to open his eyes."

***

Go someplace that'll appeal to both of you
When BJ hears "vacation," he sees himself on a beach, holding a cocktail, with no must-sees or must-dos. Tour schedules and crowds give him shivers. But I want to go new places. I crave that palpable aura of history, that evidence of human art and invention. I needed a destination we'd both find fulfilling. I brainstorm, research, and talk to family and friends. With its gorgeous beaches and ample activities, Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula floats to the top. I begin putting together a 10-day itinerary.

Slow down the pace
I have a hunch that Cancún will align with BJ's notion of a getaway. The trip from the airport will be quick and painless, and the amenities and activities (like golf) will be familiar and accessible. Relaxation will commence sooner rather than later.

Our first three nights are at the Ambiance Villas, on the postcard-worthy beach of Kin Ha. The night we arrive, we sit at the palapa-roofed restaurant and alternate between deep sighs of contentment and rounds of belly laughter. Knowing we're 20 paces from what tomorrow will surely be that impossible Caribbean blue is deeply satisfying.

The next morning, we make our way to the open-air breakfast spot. When we see the Caribbean, we gawk like children. And then we hit the beach.

Golf, motorized water sports, massages.... The BJ-friendly activities I planned fade away like my cubicle pallor. I anticipated a slow pace, but I've never seen BJ voluntarily pass up a round of golf. He's content, so I'm content. We'll explore later.

Give him a mission
BJ and I retained remnants of high-school Spanish, and two Christmases ago, he bought us lessons on CD. The unopened box turned as dusty as our Spanish skills. Before our trip, I broached the idea of language classes in Mexico. He consented, and in the subsequent weeks, he even unpacked the CDs and put the files on his iPod so he could brush up at the gym.

I discovered The Pink Iguana Language School on the Internet. Its semi-intensive program (two hours a day for five days, either at our hotel or at the base in Tulúm) seemed right for us.

So three days into our trip—tanner, fatter, and with looser shoulders—we rent a car and drive 80 miles south. After a lunch of fish tacos, we meet Norma, our instructor. The first lesson takes place that day at a little house in Tulúm. By the end of the two hours, we're laughing and joshing like old friends. (Some of my Spanish is evidently rather blue.)

We arrange for the rest of our lessons to be at our hotel. Posada Dos Ceibas is exactly what we both wanted. Eight cabanas dot the intimate beachfront property. Each morning, we wake to the toots and whistles of birds, then meander over to a breakfast of eggs, beans, and fresh bread. And then it's time for a lesson. Norma is a wonderful storyteller, a welcome interjection between conjugation lessons. In five days, our comprehension surprises us all. We're equipped to shop, inquire, and befriend in Spanish.

Ease into new experiences
My pre-trip research turned up a multitude of guided, nature-based activities, but we opt to explore the area on our own, in keeping with BJ's preference for no schedules and no crowds.

Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve is just a few kilometers from Posada Dos Ceibas. The enormous reserve includes lagoons, mangroves, dunes, archaeological ruins, and exotic wildlife. For several hours, we poke around the reserve's beaches and scenic spots along the jungled stretch of road from Tulúm to Punta Allen. We top the hot afternoon off with icy margaritas and crunchy tacos at the Centro Ecológico Sian Ka'an, where, if you are so inclined, you can book half- or full-day tours.

On our one cloudy day, we visit the Mayan ruins at Tulúm. The walled site sits on a bluff above the sea, and the stone buildings date from the 1500s and earlier. Our hotel's staff advises us to go early, before the tourist buses arrive—this is enough to get BJ to commit to an 8 a.m. excursion. We make our way along the low stone wall and through a narrow entrance into the guarded portion of the ancient city. Signs tell the story of what once was a fort and sacred site along an important trade route. We wander, and admire, and take far too many pictures.

The last item on my must-do list is a trip to one of the cenotes—deep natural wells or freshwater cave systems found throughout the Yucatán. If you're like us and prefer to go it alone, many of them are easily accessible from major roads. We visit Gran Cenote and snorkel amid colossal stalagmites, stalactites, and tiny fish. We watch with envy as scuba divers sink deeper into the dark and mysterious cave. We kick ourselves for not buying an underwater camera. The still, fresh water is a nice change from the Caribbean, if such a thing is possible.

Meet halfway
As our time in Mexico comes to a close, we're both very aware that by not traveling more often all these years, we've been missing out. We both know we'll be back—if not to this spot, most certainly to this state of being.

Personally, the biggest lesson that I learn is that while it was easy to think that BJ was the reason we failed to travel, I need to own up to my role. I thought relaxation-themed travel was only for the lazy or unimaginative, and I was certain that I'd be dissatisfied lying around on a beach or lolling in a hammock. But I surrender. On this trip I relished doing nothing almost as much as I loved exploring the Yucatán. Ultimately, we highly recommend both!

Lodging

Ambiance Villas
Blvd. Kukulkan, Km 8.5, Zona Hotelera, Cancún, 011-52/998-891-5400, ambiancevillas.com, from $110

Posada Dos Ceibas
Km 10, Carretera Tulúm-Boca Paila, Tulúm, 011-52/984-877-6024, dosceibas.com, from $60

Activities

The Pink Iguana Language School
011-52/984-124-0034, thepinkiguana.com, five-day course $260

Centro Ecológico Sian Ka'an
Carretera Federal 307, Tulúm, 011-52/984-871-2499, cesiak.org, tours from $50

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading

The No-Frills African Safari

About the author Heather Anne Cunningham, 37, is a lawyer and an animal lover who lives in Boise, Idaho. Her goal is to see as many endangered species in the wild as she can. "I always figured I could never afford a trip to Africa, but once I made it happen a few years ago with a safari to Kenya, I knew I had to go back. Now I'd like to try an all-camping safari in southern Africa. I did a little bit of camping on my previous safari and loved listening to the intense animal sounds at night—I could hear all kinds of dramas being played out!" *** Just before dinner on our first night at a bush camp in Namibia, we hear a lion roar. Looking at the seven other people on the safari, I see apprehensive faces in the light of the lantern. "Sometimes there are hippos, lions, or other wild animals in the camp," says Master, our Botswanan guide. "There is no fence. Don't leave your tent to go to the toilet at night. Don't ever wander from camp. You are safe in your tent." Throughout the night, I hear noises all around me. Two leopards make heavy breathing sounds—huuuuh, huuuuh, huuuuh—to each other across the camp until dawn. Once in a while, I hear the woo-whoop of a hyena or the sharp ack! ack! ack! of a hippo. The frogs sound like glass balls clinking against each other, while the cicadas and crickets hum collectively like an enormous refrigerator in the wild. One night, something is pushing into the small of my back from outside the tent. The pressure stops after a moment, and the tent springs back into place. In the morning, Julian, a German lawyer on the safari, says something rubbed up against his tent, too. There are no footprints beside our tents, but we find hyena tracks in another part of camp. In the rainy season from November to April, the animals in southern Africa are typically harder to see, in part because they're not concentrated around watering holes the way they are during the dry season. But I've come during the rainy season, anyway—I may spot fewer animals, but I'll avoid being around 20 other Land Rovers and a horde of people motioning at the animals to look up. I chose a tour group, World Expeditions, that limits the number of guests on a safari to 12. Only eight of us end up booking the trip: two Americans, five Germans, and a Portuguese woman. The two-week safari starts in Botswana, then loops through Namibia before finishing in Zambia. We travel in a Land Rover with removable sides and top (and very little seat padding), towing a small trailer packed with our tents, mattresses, food, and supplies. On some days, we cover more than 200 miles on roads so flooded that ducks are swimming on them. The tour differs from other African safaris because we camp out in the bush most of the time, as opposed to staying at permanent campsites with running water, toilets, and showers; moreover, we only have a guide, a German translator, and a cook with us. Everyone is responsible for setting up and taking down his or her own tent —and the iron frames make the tents shockingly heavy. "We can't use fiberglass poles, because the baboons and hyenas can break them," says Master. There's a good mix of people in the group—the other American, Al, is in his 70s and is on a trip around the world. Ana, the Portuguese woman, is a medical student in Frankfurt and is traveling on her school break with Julian, her husband. Of the other Germans, Rainer is a civil engineer, Frank and Andreas manage gas stations, and Fritz is a mechanic. Besides me, only Rainer enjoys camping at home—many of the others aren't prepared for the conditions in the bush. Our toilet is a wooden seat on a frame placed over a hole in the ground, and the bush shower (when there is one) is a suspended bucket with a shower spout. At first, there's grousing about the lack of hot water, but by the end of the first week, we're grateful for any shower at all. "Your perspective on luxury changes quite a bit when you have no electricity, no running water, no roof over your head except your tent, and no clean clothes," says Al. Breakfast usually consists of cereal and bread that's been baked in a Dutch oven over a campfire. At lunch, we eat by the side of the road—sandwiches and salads, sometimes made with leftover rice or pasta. The cook, a Botswanan man named Victor, makes delicious dinners, usually a cornmeal paste with meat and vegetables. Desserts, our favorite, include bread-and-butter pudding and roasted bananas with chocolate. I love the camping, and nothing dampens my spirits, even though my luggage doesn't arrive for a week and a half and I have to wear the same grubby clothes every day and comb my hair with a fork. My tent even springs a leak at one point, and everyone laughs at my bad luck, but I still enjoy lying awake at night, listening to all of the animal ­noises in the savanna around me. I just force myself not to think about the wet mattress beneath my back. To my dismay, however, the group votes six to two (me and Rainer) to spend our final two nights of camping at a permanent campsite with flush toilets and hot showers. After two straight days of rain, the others are willing to put up with the sounds of campers and portable radios for a little comfort. Every day, Master warns us that seeing animals at this time of year is pure luck. But we're fortunate. We find hippos everywhere, bathing in pools of water. "The first day, it was amazing to see a hippo, and now I'm saying, 'Ah, it's just another hippo, there are so many,'" says Ana. We watch zebras grazing in magnificently green fields, track families of vervet monkeys and baboons climbing in the trees, and count eight species of antelope, including a sable. ("Very rare!" says Master.) One sunny day in Botswana, we notice a lion's footprints in the road and follow them in our Land Rover. Suddenly, a pair of fran­colin birds cries out in the bush. Everyone is silent, looking for the lion in the grass, and the suspense is palpable. At last, we spot the huge male lion, napping under a tree. When he looks up at me with his amber eyes, I feel as if my heart has stopped beating. Another time, as night is falling, we come upon a shape in the grass ahead. We strain our eyes trying to make out what it is. A jackal? A hyena? "It's a leopard!" Master says. Everyone in the vehicle exhales at the same time. A moment later, the young male—about the size of a dalmatian—crosses in front of our vehicle and walks alongside it, eyeing us curiously before returning to his hunt. He's one of the most beautiful animals I've ever seen, and for a moment, he's so near he doesn't even seem real. We occasionally get out of the car to look at the animals—even dangerous snakes. Once, we come across a highly poisonous puff adder lying right in the middle of the road. Master maneuvers the Land Rover so he can drive over the snake without hitting it, and we all get out and walk back to look at it. Puff adders sometimes play dead in the wild to fool predators, and after a few seconds, we see this one blinking its eyes. On another occasion, while everyone is looking at a snake eagle, I spot a cobra in the grass. It looks like a stick at first, but then I notice it move slightly from side to side. I never thought I'd find snakes so interesting, but these are impressive. On our last day in Botswana, we watch several families of elephants splashing in a river, spraying water on each other, and rolling in the mud. Out of nowhere, a huge female turns to face us, bellows, and starts charging, flapping her ears. Then she stops in her tracks and raises her trunk to trumpet, making a loud noise. I want to take a picture of her, but I can't bring my hands to lift the camera. Our Land Rover doesn't always start easily, but thankfully, this time it does. We drive off quickly, the elephant briefly giving chase to make sure we keep going. I ride a much calmer, orphaned adult elephant near Victoria Falls in Zambia. When the ride is over, the elephant takes treats from my hand and nuzzles me with the tip of her trunk for more. Then she kneels down and allows me to sit on her front leg as she wraps her trunk around me, giving me a big hug. Safari details The 15-day Elephant Trail safari with World Expeditions is $3,190 per person for a double tent (the single supplement is $325, or solo travelers can share a tent with a stranger). The price covers the guide, meals, camping gear, park admission fees, and all transportation except air. 800/567-2216, worldexpeditions.com.

A Treehouse Adventure

About the author Jeremy Gates, 33, is an IT-support specialist and graphic designer who works for a family business in West Chester, Pa., outside Philadelphia. His brother, Tim, 27, is a film and video editor in Philadelphia. "Ever since childhood, I've been drawn to trees. My sense of exploration demanded that I take hold of Grandpa's grandest oaks and climb toward the heavens—at least until Mom summoned me down. I recently learned about treehouse hotels, many of which are in the Pacific Northwest, and I'd like to write about them. They sound like the kind of trees even my mother would climb." *** Driving east from Seattle on a country road, I wonder, Is this happening? Looking to my brother/navigator, Tim, for confirmation, I ask, "Are we really on assignment for Budget Travel?" Tim, the tree-climbing partner of my youth, nods. After a stop at Snoqualmie Falls—a sight Twin Peaks fans would recognize—I begin to get why there's a high concentration of treehouses in the Northwest. As Special Agent Dale Cooper put it, "I've never seen so many trees in my life." We pull in to Treehouse Point in Issaquah, hoping to meet Peter Nelson, who owns the place with his wife, Judy. He's one of the treehouse experts, having recently completed his fifth book on the topic. Peter also builds high-end residential treehouses and teaches laypeople how to do the same. Alas, he's away. The free tour, however, quickly lifts my spirits. The event center can accommodate up to 50 people and has hosted execs from Microsoft and other corporations; it's also available for functions such as weddings. Treehouse Point is in the process of becoming a full-fledged hotel (but because most of the suites haven't been built yet, I chose not to book there). The first suite, Temple of the Blue Moon treehouse, was completed in December. The second one is under construction. Four or five more rooms are being planned, and they'll be linked by wooden suspension bridges. We stop to admire a stairway. Each baluster is a tree branch that's been sanded smooth. "Peter is an artist," declares our guide, Russell. We cross a bridge and enter the Temple of the Blue Moon. Its cedar interior is bathed in light from an abundance of windows. If not for the views, I'd scarcely believe the room is in a tree, what with the electric lighting, stylish leather furniture, and adjacent bathroom. I regret that I didn't book a stay. Late in the afternoon, at Sky Riverhaven in Gold Bar, Tim and I get our first good look at the Cascade mountains. We stand on owner Barb Furlan's deck, where she teaches yoga and tai chi, gazing at a pair of splendid peaks across the Skykomish River. Barb didn't want a treehouse, but her landscaper kept insisting that she had a great cluster of trees and that he'd always wanted to build one. Eventually, with her grandchildren in mind, she gave him the go-ahead. Later, she started a B&B; she donates the proceeds to local charities. (After our visit, we learn that she's putting the property on the market and will take reservations only through June. If the house doesn't sell, she's willing to keep up the B&B.) One hug and two dinner suggestions later and I'm climbing 12 feet up a narrow staircase to a yurt secured to a wooden platform. The room is cheerfully decorated, with colored Christmas lights hanging above a teddy bear that sits on the commode. (There's a shower and another toilet in Barb's house.) With gusts of wind buffeting the treehouse throughout the night, I feel like I'm in a boat being tossed around by waves. Or maybe it feels more like I'm in a wok, being gently stir-fried? Or am I rocking in a cradle, like the "Rock-a-bye Baby" before the gruesome bough-breaking episode? At breakfast, Tim and I sit in a sunroom and look out at the mountains, trees, and river. Barb dances in, bearing blueberry pancakes. The next morning, the dance is repeated—this time with "exotic eggs." And then Barb, who once performed in the jazz clubs of Seattle, slides over to the piano and plays Gershwin to accompany our meal. A scenic ferry ride takes us to Nanaimo, on Vancouver Island's eastern shore. After an hour's drive north, we arrive at Free Spirit Spheres, where we meet Tom Chudleigh, creator of the spherical treehouses. Tom introduces us to his partner, Rosey Cowan, and then takes us on a tour of the five-acre property. Just beyond the bathhouse (with sauna) and near a pond, we enter a patch of trees. Pointing up, Tom introduces us to Eve, the smaller of his two spheres. Her name is appropriate: She's the first of her kind, and like Adam, I can't take my eyes off her, a giant Christmas bulb encased in bent yellow cedar. Eve's younger sister, Eryn, is larger—about 11 feet in diameter—and hangs higher up. A system of ropes tethered to nearby trees holds her 1,500-pound body about 15 feet off the ground. Before Eve and Eryn became hotel rooms, they were only for family and friends. Now honeymooners and pregnant couples who want a "womb-within-a-womb" experience are booking stays. Tom currently has plans to add one more sphere, which is in production. He may move them to a new piece of land, though, if his neighbor continues clear-cutting. We climb up to Eryn. Tom's boatbuilding background is immediately evident. The teak interior and circular windows call to mind a glamorous yacht. There's a coatroom, cupboards, shelving, booth seating with a table, a countertop with a sink, a double bed, and a bunk—and not a hint of unused space. Yet the room doesn't feel cramped and can sleep three. (The nearest toilet is an outhouse down on the ground.) A microwave, a fridge, an iPod docking station, electrical outlets, and reading lights add convenience to the charm. Even modest movement causes the sphere to jiggle, however. When I slide out of the bunk, my brother bounces like he's in a Jolly Jumper. The following morning, Tom shows us his workshop. Except for the windows, each entire sphere is crafted here, including all metal handles, hinges, and brackets. I step through the doorway of Melody, the sphere in production. The acoustics are wacky; words reverberate the moment they leave my lips. As I exit, Tom vocalizes what I've been feeling throughout my incredible journey: It's high time we start thinking outside the box about our living spaces. Lodging Treehouse Point 6922 Preston-Fall City Rd. SE, Issaquah, Wash., 425/441-8087, treehousepoint.com, $149 Sky Riverhaven 17815 433rd Ave. SE, Gold Bar, Wash., 206/465-6797, skyriverhaven.com, $100 Free Spirit Spheres 420 Horne Lake Rd., Qualicum Bay, B.C., 250/757-9445, freespiritspheres.com, from $125

A Family Trip to Hong Kong

About the author Amy Koller, 32, is a finance coordinator who lives in Yucaipa, Calif., with her husband, Robert, 39, a special-education teacher, and their two kids, Christian and Cassidy. "My husband and I have been blessed with two children who are willing to eat more than chicken nuggets, and we're wasting that by not discovering new places. We've cruised in Mexico, and we're on a first-name basis with Shamu in San Diego, but it's time for these would-be world travelers to see the world. We'll go anywhere, and we'll try anything." *** Once we hear we'll be going to Hong Kong, we scream and high-five. Then we rush to the Internet to learn more about the city. The center of Hong Kong is Hong Kong Island; to the north are Victoria Harbour and the mainland, where Kowloon and the New Territories are located. We decide to stay in Kowloon. I look for air/hotel packages on Expedia, double-check on Kayak, and scour TripAdvisor for feedback on the hotels. Then I visit the airline and hotel websites to make sure I have a deal. Our package, with L.A.–Hong Kong flights on United and five nights' hotel, is $5,905. We'd have to pay about $1,400 per ticket if booking the flights separately—so this way, it's like getting the hotel for free. Days One and Two For the 15-hour flight, Robert and I enlist an army of video games and other shiny objects to hold the attention of our 9-year-old son, Christian, and our 8-year-old daughter, Cassidy. Our imaginations help, too. We gape at frozen rivers that resemble albino snakes and look for polar bears sitting on icebergs. Ten AA batteries, four movies, and one change of clothes later—don't ask—we land. We take the Airport Express train to Kowloon and the free shuttle to Harbour Plaza Metropolis, overlooking Victoria Harbour. We drift off, dreaming of dim sum. Day Three I'm nervous about getting everyone out the door by 8 a.m. for the Jetway Express half-day tour of Hong Kong Island that I booked on Expedia, but we're all up early. We hop on the hotel shuttle to Tsim Sha Tsui, the heart of Kowloon. We're happy to learn that only a few other people are on our tour. The first stop is Victoria Peak, where we survey our temporary domain and vow to conquer it. Next, we board a water taxi that putts around Aberdeen, the floating "island" in Aberdeen Harbour. Enormous yachts are docked within feet of the disintegrating shelters that "boat people" have made out of old fishing boats. I look at my daughter, curious about how the inequality is affecting her. "Mom," she says, "did you see the dead ducks at that restaurant? I think they're going to eat them!" Around 1 p.m., we find our way to the open-air Ladies' Market in Kowloon. When we're a few feet in, the clouds part and a ray of sun pokes through. I follow the light and the faint sound of angels' voices. It's then I see them—LeSportsac knockoffs. I drooled over one of the bags at LAX, but couldn't justify the $100 price. Unable to stop myself, I buy six for $60. At Jade Garden Restaurant, we're overrun by small baskets filled with rolls, cakes, and dumplings. It's like Christmas, and each dumpling is like a present, its contents a mystery. Our favorite is the char siu bau, a delicious steamed barbecued-pork bun. Day Four We planned on visiting the Hong Kong Science Museum, since Christian is all about the hands-on experiences (and Wednesdays are free). But there are hundreds of schoolkids at the museum's entrance. Our hearts sink, as we know each exhibit will be packed. So we walk over to the Hong Kong Museum of History, where there are only a few visitors. Amazing life-size displays represent different periods of Hong Kong history. The museum even corrects some of our misconceptions. I, for one, was shocked to learn that opium was an English import to China (and not the other way around). The mall attached to our hotel has a food court with all types of inexpensive Asian food. After a few laps, we decide on a buffet of Thai noodles, sashimi, Korean fried pork, Japanese udon noodles, and boba milk tea. Christian masters chopsticks pretty quickly, but we grab extra plastic forks whenever we see them (as not all restaurants have forks). Then we go to the Goldfish Market—blocks and blocks of small stores selling pets of all kinds: fish, reptiles, puppies, and kittens. Instead of tanks of fish, they have walls of fish, hanging in bags on hooks. Not just small fish—big ones, too! And there are buckets of baby turtles. (We're glad we didn't buy one when we later spot a "No turtles" sign at the airport.) That night, we come upon a ping-pong tournament on TV. At that moment, we know we're in China. Day Five To get to Ocean Park, Hong Kong's answer to SeaWorld, we figure we'll use the metro. But when the train arrives, well.... We're from California. We don't have many opportunities to practice our subway skills. When the next train pulls in, we get into linebacker positions at the front of the line. The doors open, and we surge, motivated by fear of failure and by other riders pushing from behind. It's clear that the locals find us amusing, but we don't mind. Ocean Park straddles a hill on Hong Kong Island. It doesn't hold a candle to SeaWorld—except in one area: giant pandas! The San Diego Zoo has a panda exhibit, but we've never actually seen it. The lines have always been ridiculous. But at Ocean Park, we see four pandas up close. Cassidy declares pandas to be her new favorite animal. Christian is less impressed until one yawns. "It has real teeth!" he says. We hail a (surprisingly cheap) cab and speed off to Stanley Market on Hong Kong Island. In the first hour, we buy so much that we begin to get jelly arms from having to carry it all. Two hours later, we exit the market with two new suitcases laden with clothes, books, purses, jewelry, and anything else we can justify buying. Minutes after leaving the market, I begin to miss it like a long-lost friend. We hop on a double-decker bus back to the hotel. Robert and I follow the kids up top to the front row. The bus goes all over the island before passing through the tunnel to the mainland. It's like a crazy IMAX adventure that lasts almost an hour. I can't believe the ride is only $5 for all four of us. I'll never forget the kids' wide-eyed faces. On the bus, Robert talks to a college student, who lets us know which stop is most convenient for us and even offers to get off and assist us with our loot. We're skeptical, but it turns out he's just a friendly guy who wants to help. We tell him that he has a place to stay if he's ever in California. That night, we go to the Avenue of Stars (Hong Kong's "walk of fame") to watch "A Symphony of Lights," the nightly show along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. The fog that has rolled in adds a bit of drama to the light beams shooting through the sky and the neon swirls on the buildings. Day Six As we walk to the Tsim Sha Tsui terminal to catch the Star Ferry to Hong Kong Island, we come upon kids in matching tracksuits clustered around people who are obviously tourists. The kids are students practicing their English. After we answer their questions, they give us a handmade pamphlet about Hong Kong and their teacher snaps a picture. Our kids love it (which means we help out three groups of students). For less than $1 total, all four of us take the nearly 10-minute ferry ride. The old boats have a vintage feel: The benches are wooden, with a shared metal backrest that can be moved to face either direction. In the Central district, we poke into the nearest mall for picnic fare. Then we jump on the ferry back to Kowloon and eat as we watch cruise liners and fishing boats sharing the harbor. The open-air Jade Market, in the Yau Ma Tei district, is spread out across two blocks, and we're amazed to discover how much cheaper the jade is there than elsewhere. The kids pick out carvings representing their animals from the Chinese 12-year calendar and tie them to their jackets. Christian is then free to shop for a gift for a friend. Vendors present trinkets to him, and he ponders them for a moment before waving them off. Soon he and Cassidy are bartering just like smaller versions of Robert and me. We decide to spend the rest of the day revisiting the places we loved the most. For the kids, that means returning to the buckets of turtles they wish they could smuggle home. Robert has us go back to the food court for more udon noodles and Korean pork. And that night, I go up to the hotel lounge for one last look at the skyline. The trip is already over? There's still so much to see and do. I steel myself for the brutal flight home. This time I have no plan, just a head full of new memories—and three more pieces of luggage. Operators Jetway Express 011-852/2336-6916, jetwayexpress.com, half-day Hong Kong Island tour $22 Transportation Star Ferry 011-852/2367-7065, starferry.com.hk Lodging Harbour Plaza Metropolis 7 Metropolis Dr., Hunghom, Kowloon, 011-852/3160-6888, harbour-plaza.com Food Jade Garden Restaurant 3 Salisbury Rd., Star House, 4th Fl., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, 011-852/2730-6888 Activities Hong Kong Museum of History 100 Chatham Rd. S., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, 011-852/2724-9042, lcsd.gov.hk/hkmh, $1 Ocean Park Aberdeen, Hong Kong Island, 011-852/2552-0291, oceanpark.com.hk, $27, kids $13 Shopping Ladies' Market Tung Choi St. bet. Argyle and Dundas Sts., Kowloon Goldfish Market Tung Choi St. bet. Mongkok and Nullah Rds., Kowloon Jade Market Kansu and Battery Sts., Kowloon

America's Favorite Restaurants

**NOTE: This article was updated on Monday, June 29, 2009 ALASKA NEW! ARCTIC ROADRUNNER in Anchorage, Alaska If you're in Anchorage and you've had your fill of seafood, this old-timey burger joint should do the trick. Don't opt for anything too fancy: The standard combo of cheeseburger, milkshake, and French fries or onion rings is delicious and plenty filling. There's no table service, and the place doesn't take credit cards. Order at the counter, take your number and pay in cash, and then consider eating outside at the tables along Campbell Creek, where the salmon you just spared (well, unless you ordered the salmon burger) are known to spawn. Arctic Roadrunner has been in business for four decades; the walls are covered with photos of patrons who've visited this perennial spot for "the best burger in Anchorage." Information: 2477 Arctic Blvd., 907/279-7311. Price check: A standard burger is $5—if you want something more complicated, the Kodiak Islander is $6, and the Keeneye burger, with mozzarella cheese, is $6.25. Milkshakes start at $4. Thanks for sharing: Reader Scott B was the first to tip us off. ARIZONA NEW! ELOTE CAFE in Sedona, Ariz. It doesn't look like much from the outside, and that's putting it nicely, but if you don't get to Elote before 6 p.m., expect to wait an hour or more for dinner. Bide your time at the bar with perfect margaritas (there are five versions) and servings of free popcorn dusted with chile powder. All of the Mexican dishes are prepared imaginatively, with gourmet overtones: Start with the sopa de elote, and then move on to standout plates like enchiladas, carne asada, chile relleno, tacos with mole sauce, or anything slow roasted. The menu's smaller plates are close to entree size, so visitors often keep prices moderate by eating tapas-style. The patio has great views but can be cold at night, especially during the winter months. Elote knows it's popular; unless you have a party of five or more, no reservations are considered. Information: 771 Hwy. 179., 928/203-0105, elotecafe.com. Price check: Chicken tacos with mole sauce are $9.50, quesadillas are $11, and margaritas start at $7. Of the large plates, the chile relleno is affordable at $16.50. Thanks for sharing: Reader sharonlash was the first to tip us off. NEW! FEZ in Phoenix, Ariz. Just off the Indian School light-rail stop in Central Phoenix, Fez serves traditional American staples with Mediterranean accents in a friendly, contemporary setting. The Fez burger is a massive half-pound sandwich on ciabatta, improbably stacked with pears, crispy onions, feta cheese, and cilantro. Lighter eaters opt for the tasty Fez lettuce wraps with minced chicken and dried fruits, or one of the four kisras, Mediterranean flatbread pizzas with toppings like lamb or grilled chicken. Restaurant acolytes love all four types of fries, heaped into generous baskets, but can't agree about which is best. Bring a crowd and order one of each kind, then top it all off with one of the 20-plus martinis to keep the ensuing French fry debate civil. Information: 3815 N. Central Ave., 602/287-8700, fezoncentral.com. Price check: Salads like the tomato taza run about $6.50 for a small portion (it's plenty big!), while fries are $4.50 a basket. The signature Fez burger costs $11; a martini is $9.50. Thanks for sharing: Reader SuzyA was the first to tip us off. FLANCER'S in Gilbert, Ariz. There's nothing ordinary about the Southwestern food at Flancer's. Sandwiches are dressed with condiments like prickly-pear glaze, orange-cranberry barbecue sauce, chipotle mayonnaise, and New Mexican green-chili mayonnaise. Even the names of the sandwiches are unique: It's About Thyme has balsamic-and-thyme marinated chicken with basil mayo, sautéed mushrooms, melted provolone, lettuce, and tomatoes. Owner Jeff Flancer graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and has worked in high-end restaurants. Information: 610 N. Gilbert Rd., 480/926-9077, flancers.com, sandwiches from $6.75. Jennifer Causey, Chandler, Ariz. GELATO DOLCE VITA in Mesa, Ariz. Before leaving Italy for Arizona, Walter Bergamaschi and Marti Printy took a course at Gelato University, outside Bologna. They're constantly adding to their flavor library, which includes dark chocolate and habanero peppers; desert-flower honey; and kiwi and chardonnay. It's not uncommon for a customer to ask for a telephone call when a favorite flavor is available. Information: 5251 E. Brown Rd., 480/329-2143, gelatodolcevita.com, from $2.50. Nila and Scott Erickson, Mesa, Ariz. HIGHWAY 95 CAFE ASIAN CUISINE in Yuma, Ariz. Nothing about the industrial area on the edge of Yuma says gourmet Asian cuisine, least of all the drab exterior of Highway 95 Cafe. But diners who pull into the dirt parking lot are in for a treat. The menu is mostly Mandarin and Thai: BBQ pork drizzled with a tangy sauce, Beijing ravioli, an array of noodle dishes, and outstanding seafood. Highway 95 is packed year-round, and service is crazy fast. Information: 2585 E. 16th St., 928/329-8882, entrées from $5, cash only. Eliana Osborn, Yuma, Ariz. ARKANSAS TRIO'S in Little Rock, Ark. The lack of a men's restroom (there's a women's and a unisex) at Trio's suits its ladies-who-lunch crowd just fine. The menu seems aimed to please them, too. It's easy to pass the afternoon over hot crab dip served with crostini, or Mediterranean tapenade served with lavosh crackers. But the dessert tray steals the show. The choices include Banana Delight, a concoction of bananas, cream cheese, vanilla pudding, and whipped cream in a pecan-shortbread crust; apple-cranberry pie; several kinds of cheesecake; and seasonal offerings such as sweet-potato pie and pumpkin mousse. Information: 8201 Cantrell Rd., 501/221-3330, triosrestaurant.com, lunch entrées from $6.50, closed Sun. Holly E. Callaway, North Little Rock, Ark. CALIFORNIA OCEAN BEACH PIER CAFÉ in San Diego, Calif. The Pier Café has a knack for choosing the tastiest ingredients and letting them shine. Chunks of lobster make the omelets irresistible, the delicious mahimahi stands out in the tacos, and fresh mango brings the pancakes to a whole new level. The interior is pure San Diego: small, casual, and friendly, with wood-plank tables and a view of the beach and of surfers passing by. Information: 5091 Niagara Ave., 619/226-3474, tacos from $3, closed during heavy surf. John Jost, San Diego, Calif. SHABU in Mission Viejo, Calif. Each seat has a hot plate in front of it with a pot of boiling water. You order seafood, chicken, pork, or beef—all raw—and boil it, along with the accompanying mushrooms, tofu, noodles, and spinach, until everything is cooked. The best part is the special sauces that Kumi (a.k.a. Hot Mama), the hilarious owner, makes fresh daily: ponzu, sesame, ginger, and Hot Mama chili soy sauce. Adjust them to your taste by mixing in scallions, garlic, chilies, and daikon radishes. The restaurant is always packed, so reserving is a good idea. Information: 28715 Los Alisos Blvd., 949/588-3225,entrées from $11, closed Mon. Charlice Arnold, Rancho Santa Margarita, Calif. THE WILD PLUM CAFE & BAKERY in Monterey, Calif. The food is as simple as the decor—rustic wooden furniture, a hand-painted mural, a handwritten menu—but it always has an interesting twist. The roast-beef sandwich, for example, is served on focaccia with Gorgonzola cream, carmelized onions, and garlic aioli. If you don't have time to eat there, pick up a box lunch to go (call ahead to order one). Be sure to try the pastries—the muffins and scones are a treat. Information: 731 Munras Ave., 831/646-3109, sandwiches from $8, closed Sun. Stefanie Kaku, Carmel, Calif. SOUTH BEACH BAR & GRILL in San Diego, Calif. San Diegans know fish tacos, and this joint is considered by many to have the best in town. A lightly grilled flour tortilla is filled with mahimahi, cabbage, pico de gallo, and cheese, and then drizzled with ranch dressing. They're so cheap, you might as well get two orders, plus a cold beer. It takes some time to score a seat, but the tacos are absolutely worth the wait. Information: 5059 Newport Ave., 619/226-4577, southbeachob.com, tacos from $3. Laura Shanley, San Diego, Calif. COLORADO NEW! HEART OF JERUSALEM CAFÉ in Colorado Springs, Colo. Heart of Jersusalem Café, in downtown Colorado Springs, is one of those restaurants where pretty much everything is good. If you can't make the final call between Mediterranean staples like falafel, baba ghanoush, hummus, and tabbouleh—and no one seems to be able to—then order one of the sampler plates, which go for about $6. Dishes are large and filling, but stick around for the baklava and the Turkish coffee—the latter emerges from the kitchen in a traditional pot called an ibik, and is as black as ink and as potent as rocket fuel. Heart of Jerusalem feels like a lunch place; if you're looking for dinner, head to a restaurant where the pace and the preparation is a little more thoughtful. Information: 15 E. Bijou St., 719/477-1777, heartofjerusalemcafe.com. Price check: A falafel sandwich goes for $5, and a single serving of baklava is $1.50. Families can order the special kids' chicken nugget plate with fries and a drink for $6. Thanks for sharing: Reader Andrea was the first to tip us off. WAZEE SUPPER CLUB in Denver, Colo. A comfort-food haven for Denver downtowners, Wazee has broadened its menu in the past few years, but the main draw has always been the Colorado-style pizza—heavy on the toppings, not so much on the cheese. The pizza is good, but really, it's the nicely funky atmosphere that brings people in: exposed brick, high ceilings, checkerboard floors, a bar, and a dumbwaiter that delivers pizzas to the upper level. Information: 1600 15th St., 303/623-9518, wazeesupperclub.com, pizza from $7. Lynn Buschhoff, Denver, Colo. CONNECTICUT CAROLE PECK'S GOOD NEWS CAFE in Woodbury, Conn. Carole builds her big, creative menu on local produce and meats. Her pecan-crusted oyster appetizer with dried cherries, jicama, tomatillo salsa, and chili aioli is alone worth the trip, but once you're there, you'd be crazy not to try one of the entrées, like the wok-seared shrimp with vegetables and garlic aioli, or the free-range rotisserie chicken with mashed potatoes and stir-fried seasonal veggies. Information: 694 Main St. S., 203/266-4663, good-news-cafe.com, entrées from $18, closed Tues. Henry Bissonnette, Woodbury, Conn. FLORIDA E&E STAKEOUT GRILL in Belleair Bluffs, Fla. You can't help but admire the river-rock walls and cherry-wood and copper accents. Once your food has arrived, however, the decor fades and all you can think about is how delicious the rack of lamb is, how fresh the seafood is, and how creative the cooking is. The specials change daily, but if potato-crusted hog snapper with creamy leek-and-garlic sauce is available, order it. Information: 100 N. Indian Rocks Rd., 727/585-6399, 3bestchefs.com, entrées from $14, closed for lunch Sat. and Sun. Phil Meyer, Belleair Bluffs, Fla. PUERTO SAGUA in South Beach, Fla. No South Florida restaurant is more authentically Cuban than Puerto Sagua—just ask the Cubans gathered at the long counter for small plates and café cubanos (also known as Cuban rocket fuel). In the main dining room, there's even an elaborate diorama of a 1950s Havana street scene. The dishes are classic Cuban: arroz con pollo (chicken and rice), ropa vieja (shredded beef), and more. This is Cuban food for Cubans, not tourists—though tourists always love it! Information: 700 Collins Ave., 305/673-1115, entrées from $8. Richard Rosichan, Miami Beach, Fla. GEORGIA TASTY CHINA in Marietta, Ga. Owner Yang Da He hires highly regarded Szechuan cooks and gives them the freedom to cook authentic cuisine with few restrictions and no dumbing down. The result is bold, spicy dishes with a balance of flavors that stand up to the heat. (The menu label "hot and numbing" on some dishes should be taken quite literally.) Skip the two pages of Chinese-American standards on the menu and go straight to the Szechuan specialties. Information: 585 Franklin Rd. SE, 770/419-9849, entrées from $8. Morgan Eubanks, Marietta, Ga. HAWAII NEW! KEOKI'S PARADISE in Koloa, Hawaii Near the southern coast of Kauai, within walking distance of Poipu Beach, Keoki's Paradise restaurant is a campy, fun alternative to eating at the big resorts. Tiki torches, a thatched roof, and the usual assortment of "tropical" cocktails (there are two versions of the mai tai) are a little silly, but it all feels appropriately festive when you're dining in shorts and sandals. Dishes served in the restaurant proper are overpriced, so ask for a seat near the man-made pond in the café and stick with the fresh fish, which the restaurant has mastered. The hula pie dessert is a tasty, gargantuan chunk of macadamia-nut ice cream with hot fudge, big enough for the kids to split. Information: 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808/742-7534, keokisparadise.com. Price check: A large fish taco platter in the café goes for $10; the fresh fish entrée is $16. Tropical cocktails like the lava flow (the menu says it erupts with strawberry) cost $7.25. Thanks for sharing: Reader AncSteve was the first to tip us off. ILLINOIS IRAZÚ in Chicago, Ill. You could easily mistake Irazú for a little spot in Costa Rica where you'd stop for a bite. A mural on one wall shows a cottage under palms and tree frogs. Everyone should try the vegetarian burrito with mushrooms at least once—though the steak sandwich is also spectacular. Order a mango-water shake to wash everything down. You'll leave full, satisfied, and out maybe $15 for dinner. Information: 1865 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773/252-5687, irazuchicago.com, entrées from $9, cash only, closed Sun. Amy Johnson, Chicago, Ill. SCHWA in Chicago, Ill. It's rare to find a restaurant that offers great experimental food with no attitude, but that's exactly what you get at Schwa. Everything about the place tells you the food is the main event: The space is small, the decor is bare bones, and the tasting menu—which is the only menu—is served by the chefs, not waiters. In fact, this restaurant pays so much attention to the food that it doesn't even have drinks on the menu; customers bring their own wine or beer. Information: 1466 N. Ashland Ave., 773/252-1466, schwarestaurant.com, three-course menu $55, closed Sun. and Mon. Charlie Baase, Chicago, Ill. KENTUCKY NORTH END CAFE in Louisville, Ky. The most difficult thing about dining there is choosing which meal to eat. If you go for breakfast, you can savor the house-smoked trout hash. But that means you'd miss the rosemary roasted chicken and dumplings for lunch. Then there's dinner, when you have the option of tapas or an entrée (maybe grilled salmon over Parmesan risotto). Of course, you could just stay for all three meals. Information: 1722 Frankfort Ave., 502/896-8770, northendcafe.com, entrées from $10, closed Mon. Cynthia Birkhead, Bardstown, Ky. MICHIGAN UNION STREET in Detroit, Mich. There are lots of options at Union Street—pastas, sandwiches, salads—but you could be forgiven for never ordering anything but the calamari. The tender squid is julienned, marinated, dusted with seasoned flour, flash fried, and then dressed with a lemon beurre blanc, basil, capers, red onions, and tomatoes. Order extra bread and refuse to give up the bowl until you've mopped up every last drop of sauce. (Ask for the sauce "the old way"—the new version of the dish doesn't come with enough.) Information: 4145 Woodward Ave., 313/831-3965, unionstreetdetroit.com, entrées from $13. Adrien Kant, Cincinnati, Ohio MISSOURI THE AMERICAN RESTAURANT in Kansas City, Mo. Well aware that it has one of the best locations in the city—in Crown Center, with views overlooking downtown and the surrounding area—the American Restaurant has oriented most of its tables toward the big glass walls. At night, the lights are dazzling; around Christmas, they're breathtaking. The restaurant could probably get away with preparing mediocre food for its contemporary American menu, but it wouldn't dare. Information: 200 E. 25th St., 816/545-8001, theamericankc.com, entrées from $17, closed Sun. Brenda Tatro, Kansas City, Kans. NEVADA CAFÉ BLEU in Las Vegas, Nev. In the Semmerlin area, Café Bleu is run by Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts. Except for the executive chef, the entire staff—from the chefs to the servers—is made up of students. The ever-changing menu includes the kind of high-end cuisine you'd expect from the Venetian or the Four Seasons, but at a fraction of the price. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, and it's quite popular; you'll want to reserve well in advance. Information: 1451 Center Crossing Rd., 702/851-5322, vegasculinary.com/onsite_restaurant.asp, entrées from $7, closed Sat.–Mon. Carol A. Shields, Las Vegas, Nev. NEW JERSEY DE LORENZO'S TOMATO PIES in Trenton, N.J. What's tomato pie, you ask? To those in the know (i.e., anyone from Trenton), it's the best darn pizza you'll ever eat: a thin crust topped with tomato sauce, high-quality olive oil, tomatoes, and cheese. Within seconds of coming out of the oven, the pie is on your table, still bubbling, the crust slightly charred. De Lorenzo's is in a converted row house in the Chambersburg neighborhood. In the main room, there are several booths and a pizza oven. The back room—once the owner's living room—has a few more tables. If you're a Mets fan, you're in luck: During baseball season, the game is always on the restaurant's TV. Information: 530 Hudson St., 609/695-9534, delorenzostomatopies.com, pizza from $12, cash only, closed Mon.–Wed. J. Costigan, Trenton, N.J. Stewart's in Tuckerton, N.J. There are three ways to experience this '50s-style drive-in. Take a little boat down Tuckerton Creek, dock in the back of the restaurant, and hang out at one of the canopy-shaded picnic tables; drive up and have your meal delivered on a tray that hangs precariously on your car-window frame; or walk through downtown Tuckerton and take a seat at one of the counter stools. No matter where you are, you'll enjoy a view of Tuckerton Lake and the Tuckerton Seaport. Stewart's makes the most incredible milkshakes—thick, creamy, and expertly blended. Order your favorite flavor with a pork roll sandwich. Information: 102 W. Main St., 609/489-1696, pork roll from $3.75, cash only, open Apr.–Oct. Janet Mihalic, Hermosa Beach, Calif. NEW MEXICO WECK'S in Albuquerque, N.M. The local chain's name doesn't invoke traditional Southwestern fare, and the decor is decidedly plain. It's the Papas that make Weck's a favorite. To get the true experience, order the Original Papas, a huge mound of hash browns topped with diced ham, bacon, sausage, two eggs, and red or green chilies, served with a tortilla. Information: 3913 Louisiana Blvd. NE, 505/881-0019, wecksinc.com, Original Papas $8. Amy O'Donnell, Albuquerque, N.M. BOBCAT BITE in Santa Fe, N.M. Bobcat Bite is a tiny diner in the middle of nowhere, and it serves only a few things, but none of that matters when you sink your teeth into the green-chili cheeseburger. Made from beef that's ground fresh every morning, the burger is so thick and juicy it can be hard to handle. The story behind the name is that bobcats used to come down from the mountains, and the owners of the restaurant would feed them scraps of food. They would warn diners to be careful because "bobcat bite." Information: 420 Old Las Vegas Hwy., 505/983-5319, bobcatbite.com, green-chili cheeseburger $7.50, cash only, closed Sun.–Tues. Valerie Lefler, Tooele, Utah NEW YORK MARYBILL DINER in Merrick, N.Y. MaryBill looks like an old railroad diner car: sliding doors, tile floors, booths that seat two or four, and a counter overlooking the grill where Mary and Nick do the cooking. If you order an omelet (and you should), keep in mind that they're huge—bring an appetite or someone to share with. For lunch, get the turkey salad—it's made from a fresh turkey every day. Information: 14 Merrick Ave., 516/378-9715, from $4.40, cash only, closed Sun. Susan Dillon, Merrick, N.Y. NICK TAHOU HOTS in Rochester, N.Y. People come to this greasy spoon in an old brick train station for the famous Garbage Plate. The base is any combination of home fries, macaroni salad, baked beans, and French fries. For the topping, you can choose from several meat options, including burgers, chicken, sausage, ham, and fish. Follow the locals' lead and order the white hots–like hot dogs but made mostly of pork instead of beef (an upstate New York specialty). The plate is dressed with mustard, chopped onions, and the restaurant's signature sauce. Information: 320 W. Main St., 585/436-0184, garbageplate.com, Garbage Plate from $5, closed Sun. John Domm, Ontario, N.Y. OHIO CASA NUEVA RESTAURANT, CANTINA, & BODEGA in Athens, Ohio Casa, as locals call it, is a slow-food-promoting, worker-owned co-op in the heart of a college town, but it's not your average hippie hangout. For one thing, there's meat—but if you don't want the King Family Farm bacon or spicy sausage, there are plenty of meatless options, too: for brunch, fluffy, lemony cottage cheese pancakes; for dinner, huge burritos made from fresh tortillas and filled with jasmine rice and veggies. The chips and salsa—particularly the black bean version—should be ordered regardless of which meal you eat. Information: 4-6 W. State St., 740/594-8691, casanueva.com, entrées from $6. Maria Surovy, Cleveland, Ohio NAZARETH RESTAURANT & DELI in Columbus, Ohio Despite being in a strip mall, Nazareth is full of character, thanks to the owner, Hany Baransi, who walks around with a baseball bat asking guests how the food is. But there's nothing threatening about Hany. Anyone who's eaten at Nazareth has heard him use his catchphrase, "I love you, man." Customers often give him "I love you" souvenirs—license plates, magnets—which he displays behind the counter. The walls are painted with a scene from Israel, his home. The menu is a combination of Mediterranean and American cuisines, with gyros, French fries, chicken with rice, and more. Information: Columbus Square Shopping Center, 5663 Emporium Sq., 614/899-1177, nazarethdeli.com, gyros from $5, closed Sun. Molly Ray, Columbus, Ohio OKLAHOMA TWO FROGS GRILL in Ardmore, Okla. Two Frogs is in Oklahoma, but it screams New Orleans. It's dark, with a funky party room and bar in the back and bands playing from time to time. Share a Fried Blossom onion to start, and then move on to the fried catfish fillets and red beans. Save room for the apple dumpling with vanilla-custard sauce—one order is enough for two. Information: 2646 W. Broadway, 580/226-3764, twofrogsgrill.com, entrées from $7. Claire Murphy, Ardmore, Okla. OREGON THE RESTAURANT AT KING ESTATE in Lorane, Ore. Just as you begin to second-guess your map or the local who gave you directions, a grand building comes into view—the King Estate Winery visitors center. Many of the fruits, vegetables, and herbs on the restaurant's menu are organically grown on the 1,033-acre estate. Everything else comes from Oregonian farmers, so whether you're eating the beet-and-spinach salad or the delicious pizza with tomatoes and basil, you can rest assured that it's fresh and local. As is, of course, the wine. Information: 80854 Territorial Rd., 541/685-5189, kingestate.com, entrées from $20. Rosemary Gording, Eugene, Ore. PENNSYLVANIA NEW! PAMELA'S P&G DINER in Pittsburgh, Pa. Pamela's breakfast menu breeds the kind of loyalty that sounds a little like addiction. If you're hooked, you dedicate weekend mornings to navigating the long lines and wolfing down huge, debilitating helpings of their pancakes and eggs. The restaurant's signature meal is their crepe-style pancakes, thinner and little more porous than what you see elsewhere—try the banana chocolate chip or the strawberry, both popular with the regulars. If you prefer savory to sweet, the omelets with a side of thick home fries are the best bet. Pamela's, with six branches in Pittsburgh, has little in the way of interior design or ambience, but the friendly service and the great prices (the bottomless coffee pot costs $1.75) more than make up for it. It's cash only, so stop at an ATM before you join the line, which moves mercifully fast. Information: 60 21st St., 412/281-6366. Price check: The crepe-style pancakes go for $4.25 a plate. Most omelets cost about $6.50. The bottomless pot of coffee is served in a thermos table-side for $1.75. Thanks for sharing: Reader robin first tipped us off. TEXAS NEW! GELATO BLU in Houston, Tex. Up to 36 flavors are listed on the gelato and sorbetto menu at Houston's Gelato Blu, and the super-friendly staff lets you sample as many as you'd like before ordering. Homemade cones stuffed with Michelangelo gelato, a unique blend of ricotta and fig, win loyalty from more adventurous palates; others swear by the classics, such as pistachio and hazelnut. The store serves lunch fare and coffee drinks too, but most come for the ice cream—or mix their vices by ordering an affogato, a mound of sweet cream gelato with freshly pulled espresso poured over the top. Information: 5710 Memorial Dr. #B, 713/880-5900, gelatoblu.com. Price check: Small dish for $3.50; medium $4.50; large $5. Add 70¢ for a homemade waffle cone. Nine variations of their affogato drink go for $4.50 each. Thanks for sharing: Member foodie was the first to tip us off. NEW! NIKO NIKO'S GREEK & AMERICAN CAFÉ in Houston, Tex. Niko Niko's, by most accounts, is a Houston institution. Its brusque, no-nonsense efficiency isn't exactly charming, but it's necessary—after all, the lines get long, and you can't wait for your gyro forever. The baby lamb shank and the lemon chicken soup garner high praise, and although the portions are uniformly huge, you should save room for dessert. The homemade baklava and honey balls are terrific. Large plates and a special children's menu, with all items priced affordably, spell "family value." Information: 2520 Montrose Blvd., 713/528-4976, nikonikos.com. Price Check: A gyros sandwich goes for $8. Larger, mixed plates (assortments) average around $13. Thanks for sharing: Members TBowen, djb123, and foodie were the first to tip us off. NEW! MAX'S WINE DIVE in Austin and Houston, Tex. A trendy mini-chain with branches in Houston and Austin, Max's Wine Dive serves food with haute attitude, minus the fussiness. Diners describe plates like the "Texas haute" hot dog with venison chili and the fried egg sandwich with truffle oil as both drippingly messy and unforgettably delicious. Max's tries to keep things local: the chefs get ingredients such as buffalo and alligator meat, and assorted vegetables, from nearby farms. All of the wines from the titanic house list are served by the glass, with a two-glass commitment—you can split the pours with a friend to keep your tippling options open. Information: 207 San Jacinto Ave., Austin, 512/904-0106; 4720 Washington Ave., Houston, 713/880-8737; maxswinedive.com. Price check: Large plates can be expensive, but you can opt for more affordable meals. The popular fried egg sandwich entrée is served with hand-cut potato chips for $13, and a half order of the wild boar pasta is $9. Thanks for sharing: Member jbob was the first to tip us off. NEW! PAPPASITO'S CANTINA in Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Dallas/Fort Worth, and other metropolitan areas in Texas Several readers wrote in last year to complain about the inclusion of Tex-Mex chain Chuy's, of Texas—so we know we'll get flak for tipping our hat to another local chain, Pappasito's Cantina, this year. We're messing with Texas, and we're sorry. A Tex-Mex chain that's part of the Pappas family's restaurant empire, Pappasito's doles out huge plates of food to big, hungry crowds—and still manages to satisfy demanding palates. The fajitas, by most accounts, are the star here, with self-described Texan "fajita snobs" vouching for their tastiness. Entrées can run to the expensive side for Tex-Mex, but most portions are good for two, so you should think about splitting your plate with your favorite hombre. Information: pappasitos.com. Price check: Chicken fajitas for $15—but the menu says it serves two. A two-taco dinner served with rice and beans is $10. Thanks for sharing: Members djb123 and ask4texas were the first to tip us off. CHUY'S in Austin, Tex. In a town where there's Tex-Mex on almost every corner, Chuy's is the best. If you can tear yourself away from the enchiladas—blue-corn tortillas filled with chicken, cheese, and tomatillo sauce and topped with sour cream—take a moment to admire the decor: velvet Elvises, hand-carved wooden fish, vinyl chairs, tables from the 1950s, and pictures of patrons all over the world in Chuy's T-shirts. Information: 1728 Barton Springs Rd., 512/474-4452 (plus four other Austin locations), chuys.com, entrées from $6. Sara Ballon, Austin, Tex. UTAH NEW! BIT & SPUR RESTAURANT & SALOON in Springdale, Utah The Bit & Spur is one of the best restaurants near Utah's Zion National Park: The locally brewed beer is top-notch, and Mexican-inspired basics like the house burrito and fresh fruit margaritas satisfy after a long hike, especially if you've snagged a patio seat. Ingredients are high-quality, and the vibe is festive and always friendly. Still, food quality can be erratic, and the prices are higher than they need to be—the seasonal menu, especially, trends towards expensive options (this spring's bistek asado dish goes for $30, and the special tamales are priced at $21). Keep it simple and you'll walk away happy, and full: Grab a good beer or a margarita, try well-regarded favorites like the tacos or burritos, and down it all on the back patio while contemplating the West Temple Mountains. That's hard to beat after an attempt at nearby Angel's Landing, a legendary hike to one of the best summit views in the National Park system. Information: 1212 Zion Park Blvd., 435/772-3498, bitandspur.com. Price check: The chicken, beef, or pork burrito goes for $12.50. Fajitas go for a pricey $18.25. A children's menu is available: The child's portion for a taco or enchilada plate is $6.25. Thanks for sharing: Reader Lois was the first to tip us off. CROWN BURGERS in Salt Lake City, Utah Crown Burgers has grown to include seven locations throughout the area, but there's nothing chain-like about it. For one thing, the company is run by a family, not a big corporation. For another, the owners pay special attention to the food, whether it's the popular Crown Burger—a man-size patty topped with pastrami, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, and a special sauce—or the gyros, taquitos, broiled chicken, burritos, salads, fries, or shakes. Every outpost is always packed at lunch, but you never have to wait long for your order. Information: 3190 S. Highland Dr., 801/467-6633, Crown Burger from $5, closed Sun. Richard Miles, Tooele, Utah VIRGINIA CORNER BAR & GRILL in Richmond, Va. Not too sweet and not too heavy, the absolutely perfect mashed sweet potatoes at the Corner Bar & Grill fall somewhere between pudding and homestyle creamy mashed potatoes. Order them as a side to any of the classic Southern dishes on the menu—delicately fried catfish, pork chops, sandwiches, fried oysters, or barbecue Jack grilled chicken. Add the restaurant's spectacular collard greens and sweet, moist cornbread, and you're all set. Information: 1301 W. Leigh St., 804/213-3046, thecornerbargrill.com, sandwiches from $7, mashed sweet potatoes $2, closed Sun. Ellen Young, Mechanicsville, Va. WASHINGTON YUMIKO'S TERIYAKI in Redmond, Wash. It seems like there's a teriyaki restaurant in every Eastside strip mall, but Yumiko's teriyaki sauce, with just the right balance of savory and sweet, makes this place stand out. (The recipe has been passed down for generations and remains a family secret.) You can order steak, shrimp, or chicken, all of which are served with rice, sauce, and a little cabbage salad. Servings are generous, so you may want to go for a half portion. The dining area only seats 19. Information: 15003 NE 24th St., 425/562-8916, entrées from $6.50, closed Sun. Megan Rossman, Edmond, Okla. WASHINGTON, D.C. NEW! JALEO On 7th Street, close to Chinatown and only a short walk from the National Mall and the Smithsonian Institution, the festive Spanish tapas restaurant Jaleo should be a tourist mainstay. Somehow, it's not. The abbreviated lunch menu is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; try sandwiches such as the JLT (jamón, lettuce, and tomato) and the roasted lamb for about $9 each. At night, the restaurant fills to capacity by 6:30 p.m.; if you don't arrive early or book a reservation well in advance, expect to wait 30 or 40 minutes at the bar. The paella is justly famous, but small plates like lamb chops, dates wrapped with bacon, and sautéed spinach with pine nuts are more fun to sample. If you over-order, you'll blow the bank; instead, order plates in groups of two or three, and be sure to get your fill of some of the cheaper staples, like patatas bravas ($6) and pan con tomate ($3). Information: 480 7th St., NW, 202/628-7949, jaleo.com. Price check: The tapas plate of Spanish omelet with potatoes and onions goes for $6.50. The paella with chicken and mushrooms, which serves two to four, costs $34. Thanks for sharing: Reader Valerie first tipped us off. AMSTERDAM FALAFELSHOP Order your falafel and then head to the toppings bar to add marinated eggplant, garlic hummus, tomatoes, cucumbers, baba ghanoush, or jalapeño-cilantro sauce. (A sign gives instructions for the best way to add toppings.) Don't forget the garlic cream sauce and tahini, the two items that the staff invites you to reapply as you work your way through the meal. The fries are prepared Dutch-style, meaning they're fried twice. There's ketchup to dip them in, but it's fun to try the more interesting options such as creamy Dutch mayo and sweet-and-spicy peanut sauce. Information: 2425 18th St. NW, 202/234-1969, falafelshop.com, from $4.50, cash only (including euros!). Laura Nixon, Alexandria, Va. MON CHERI CAFE Whether you're a somebody or a nobody, the guys at the counter and behind the grill only care about one thing: your order. Sure, they love to chat, and if the line isn't too long, they will. But chances are, there will be someone behind you itching to order exactly what you should be ordering—a big, fat cheeseburger with mayo, onions, mustard, and tomatoes, a side of fries, and a Coke. The bun is toasted, the lettuce is crisp, the tomatoes are red (not pink), and the burger is always perfectly cooked. Information: 3015 M St. NW, 202/338-2745, burgers from $4. Jason Carey, Charlotte, N.C. WISCONSIN NEW! THE OLD FASHIONED in Madison, Wis. Much of the menu at the Old Fashioned is locally sourced or inspired. The beer-battered perch, for example, is fish pulled from local waters and then fried in a coating of breadcrumbs doused with Wisconsin brews. It's a principle that threads its way through the menu's smallest details: Even the sweet-cream butter that graces the baked potatoes is from the state. Try the fried cheese curds (Wisconsin cheese, of course) or the huge wurst platter with homemade sauerkraut and mustard—the latter is a nod to the area's German ancestry. For a nightcap, order one of the carefully crafted early-20th-century cocktails such as the sidecar or the bourbon old-fashioned. The restaurant is a calorie-counter's nightmare; try not to think about that and resolve to eat healthy tomorrow. Information: 23 N. Pinckney St., 608/310-4545, theoldfashioned.com. Price check: The slow-roasted pork shoulder sandwich goes for $8. The wurst platter is $16. Cocktails start at $4.50. Thanks for sharing: Reader alandrus was the first to tip us off. BONA CASA FOODS in Cumberland, Wis. Don't expect fancy waiters or sommeliers here. In fact, don't expect pretension of any kind. This restaurant is all about Midwestern friendliness. The menu is limited to "cavatills" (rolled pasta with ridges, like cavatelli), two types of ravioli (chicken or cheese and raisin), and spaghetti. Most people go for the sweet, tangy red sauce, but there's a pepper Jack cheese sauce, too. All dishes are served with meatballs or homemade Italian sausage, and a choice of salad or cottage cheese. The restaurant is popular, so you'll probably have to wait—on the lawn in summer, in your car with the heat on in winter. Information: 754 21st Ave., 715/822-8294, bonacasafoods.com, entrées from $9, closed Mon. and Tues. Liz Zappitello, Superior, Wis. WYOMING STONE TABLE in Jackson Hole, Wyo. Run by Julie Zell Suclla and her Peruvian husband, Gustavo Suclla Schiaffino, this Latin-fusion tapas restaurant takes its food seriously. The cocktails and extensive wine list are reasons enough to go, but once you're there, you'd be crazy not to order, say, the potatoes. Delivered as three Gaudí-esque towers, they're served with crab and ají chili peppers and topped with avocado and garlic-lime aioli. Even the vegetarian offerings are well thought out. The yucas fritas—fried yuca root served with an aioli dipping sauce—are absolutely addictive. Information: 850 W. Broadway, 307/732-0500, stonetablejacksonhole.com, tapas from $3.50. Alisan Peters, Jackson, Wyo.