Istanbul kicks off a culture-packed year

By Kate Appleton
October 3, 2012

At 20:10 tomorrow evening, a music and light show over the Golden Horn harbor will broadcast Istanbul's arrival as a European Capital of Culture for 2010. The citywide launch party also calls for fireworks and for concerts by an Ottoman-style military band in historic Sultanahmet, local pop star Tarkan at Taksim Square, and alternative rock band Mor ve Otesi at Kadikoy Square on the Asian side on the Bosporus. Many museums will be free and open until midnight.

In a sure-to-be-appreciated concession, some restaurants in the trendy Beyoglu district have been granted permits allowing them to serve alcohol from 4 a.m. to 7 a.m. all year long, reports the WSJ. Officials also recently abolished a 50 percent surcharge on nighttime taxi rides. (Come back to Beyoglu in daylight to wander buzzed-about contemporary art galleries like Galerist that are located in the Misir Apartments, 311/4 Istiklal Caddesi.)

Hundreds of events fill the 2010 calendar, among them festivals devoted to shadow theater and to Balkan music, dance performances, cultural exchanges, and blockbuster art shows—perhaps the biggest being "From Byzantium to Istanbul," which lands at Sakip Sabanci Museum in September.

You can already explore a new museum complex, Panorama Istanbul 1453, on the grounds of Topkapi Palace, and July brings two more openings. The Museum of Innocence, whose name references a novel by Nobel Prize-winner Orhan Pamuk, documents city life from the '50s to the present. A ferry ride away, on the island of Buyukada, the Museum of the Princes' Islands focuses on the traditions of this sleepy archipelago in the Sea of Marmara, home to many Greeks and Armenians.

Throw into the mix new hotels, renovations to landmarks such as the Hagia Sophia, and a new terminal at Sabiha Gokcen Airport, and you can understand why we considered Istanbul for our list of the Top Budget Travel Destinations for 2010.

It was the budget bit that stopped us. Istanbul may still come out as affordable when compared to some western European capitals (1 Turkish lira = 69 U.S. cents). But prices have risen in step with the city's rising profile—and travelers are noticing. Check out this heated TripAdvisor forum, Istanbul - what a rip-off!

Here's a more fundamental topic for debate: just how European is Istanbul, anyway? MiddleEastOnline.com brings up the political element of the European Capital of Culture accolade and whether it may factor into Turkey's slow-moving quest to become a member of the E.U. club. (This year's two other capitals of culture are already insiders: Essen, Germany, and Pécs, Hungary.)

The Hurriyet Daily News, Turkey's English-language paper, raises its own doubts about the sustainability and choice of cultural projects. The paper quotes Urban Implementations Director Korhan Gumus, who argues that at least Istanbul is bringing something new to the table:

"Istanbul's culture capital process has brought up a question that no other European city could, and that is the process of modernization," said Gumus. "Before, the definition of a cultural capital was set in terms of belonging to the European nation-states. But with Istanbul it has shifted to an awareness of modernization."

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading

Slate asks: How to fix airport security?

Seeing as the TSA hasn't been able to come up solutions, Slate asked readers to offer their suggestions for how to fix airport security. Of the hundreds of ideas submitted, a few were singled out as winners. As explained in Slate's post, a panel of judges that included former homeland security executives and a former airline security director sifted through the submissions and declared a few as the best, most practical and most effective ideas. Slate forwarded its favorite ideas to the TSA, the White House, and Congress. Will the government act on any of these suggestions, or even take note of them? No idea. But the suggested improvements are interesting regardless. The top four ideas, briefly summarized here, are: Redesign our airports. Joyce Hackett of New York believes that America's airports should take their cues from Berlin. "Tegel Airport is built like a big ring—planes on the outside, drivers and parking in the middle," she writes. "Its individually secured gates make it both the most efficient and the most security-effective airport I've experienced." Link the no-fly list with airlines' ticketing systems. Marianne Nassef of Abilene, Texas, proposes stopping potential terrorists before they even get to the airport. "Nothing gets denied faster than a credit card," Nassef reasons. Going by her plan, anyone on a no-fly list would be denied the right to purchase a ticket. Rotate FBI trainees into the TSA. Neil Stelzner of Santa Monica, Calif., and Phil Nettl of South Brunswick, N.J., would like to see G-men manning our airports. "They are dedicated, educated, and trained in law enforcement and have a desire to excel at their jobs," Stelzner and Nettl explain. Live drills for TSA employees. Benton Love of Houston received top marks from the judges for proposing a system of constant tests for TSA workers. Love advocates a carrot/stick approach: Screeners would be paid a bonus for each federal agent they caught trying to sneak a dummy bomb through security and docked for each one they let through. You can read more about why the judges liked these ideas best, and also read the submissions in their entirety, at Slate. So what do you think of the winning ideas? Got any better suggestions?

Help a reader! Know of a travel-ready detergent?

Reader Sara Molnar is looking for a detergent that's not a liquid and not a power for easy passage through TSA checkpoints. I think I've found the answer to my question. Purex makes a detergent/softener/anti-static combo called Purex 3-in-1 which comes in sheets. You can find more info at purex.com. I haven't found it in my local stores yet, but the Purex website indicates many national stores from CVS and Rite Aid to WalMart and Target carry it. Maybe a reader has tried it and will comment? Reader Linda Strand, of Corpus Christi, has tried the Purex 3-in-1's and says they work fine: "You use one sheet per load, and it washes and softens clothes and eliminates static." Here are some other ideas: Doug Dyment, who has studied efficient packing for more than a decade and whose opinion I trust the most on such matters, says: I bow to tradition here: individual foil packets of Woolite cold water laundry detergent. I carry them in doubled Ziploc bags. (Travel Laundry Soap by Woolite $5) There are other options (though I'd avoid those that require carrying bottled liquids), but Woolite has been the traveller's standby for years, and for good reason. Should you take along a conventional detergent of some sort, remember that very little is required to do a sinkful of laundry…or plan plenty of rinse cycles! If you're in Germany or Austria, or live in a city large enough to support a good German deli, try a tube of Procter & Gamble's Rei in der Tube ("cleanliness in a tube"), a handy toothpaste-consistency detergent. If you prefer to use a favourite powdered detergent, a plastic 35mm film canister (if you can still find one in these days of digital photography) is a good way to keep a reasonable quantity dry. —via Doug's packing list at OneBag.com, Reader Joan Burns has the following tip: I discovered a great way to pack powdered detergent for washing clothes in a sink. Clean out one of those plastic spice containers that have a shaker cap under the lid and fill it with detergent. When you're ready to wash clothes, just shake out a little of the detergent into the sink. Please chime in if you have other ideas on travel-friendly detergent.

Inspiration

Italy: An Umbrian hilltown gets a modern art space

As Rome eagerly awaits the May opening of its Zaha Hadid–designed MAXXI museum, there's a more intimate—but still spectacular—experience to be had 95 miles north, at a 5-month-old contemporary art space in the medieval hillside village of Città della Pieve. Collector and founder Massimo Lauro devised the idea for The Garden of Laurels, a nod to his last name and the laurels that grow on the property, in 2004. His attempts to show a conceptual work, a life-size cabin made of sourdough by Urs Fischer, in a major museum were roundly blocked, so Lauro, the son of pop-art collectors, took matters into his own hands. With his wife, Angela, he transformed his family's Umbrian winery into 7,000 square feet of galleries, sculpture gardens, and performance space. It all serves as a showcase for the Lauros' 300-piece collection of paintings, photography, and large-scale installations by artists from Roxy Paine to Dash Snow, as well as the fittingly optimistic entryway sculpture by Swiss mixed-media artist Ugo Rondinone (pictured). ilgiardinodeilauri.it, free, open Fridays and Saturdays, 10 a.m.–6 p.m., or by appointment. From the February 2010 issue of Budget Travel.