Just Back From... a Girls' Trip to China

August 2, 2010
exitintchina
San Diego resident Jessica Beattie and her cousin Emily Peterson spent two weeks traveling through Beijing, Shanghai, and X'ian, on the lookout for tailored clothes, tea, and authentic food.

Great local meal... Kong Yiji in Beijing. It was the only truly local, non-touristy meal that we had the whole trip, and it was absolutely worth it! Emily and I found it in a New York Times article and had the aniseed-flavored kidney beans, braised rice, and the scallion-oil yellow fish soup. We ordered everything through hand gestures. [PHOTO]

Our favorite part... The South Bund Fabric Market in Shanghai, without a doubt. [PHOTO] The market has row after row and booth after booth of gorgeous, handmade winter dress coats, suit jackets, traditional robes, and slacks. The craftsmanship was impeccable, and everything was at bargain-basement prices—a shopper's paradise! After honing our haggling skills, we had oxford shirts and trench coats made to order for pennies on the dollar. [PHOTO]

Wish we'd known that... Not all restaurants and shopping venues have Western toilets. Eek!

What we should have packed... No regrets here! Emily and I were expert packers on this trip and brought only one bag each. I suppose we could have packed less, but I'm thrilled I brought granola bars and bite-size Snickers to keep me sated between meals.

Worth every penny...The Peony Aroma spa in Shanghai. It was recommended to us by a Brazilian expat we met in a convenience store. (Always talk to the locals!) For about $35 each, we had 90-minute full-body massages—the perfect way to end any long day. [PHOTO]

Fun surprise... A tiny tea parlor in Beijing. We were attempting to go to a steak place one night, but the storefront looked deserted, so we strolled down the street. A few shops down, tucked away, was the shop. The curator spoke no English and we knew no Chinese, but he begged us to come in; we happily obliged and experienced our first tea ceremony. [PHOTO] He heated the electric kettle and poured water over the host cup full of oolong tea leaves. He pointed to maps and spoke passionately about the tea (we assume!), and we laughed and drank and had a grand time. We walked out with a stash of loose-leaf green tea and a great memory.

Overrated...Suzhou, about 90 minutes or so outside of Shanghai. It's commonly known as "the Venice of China." There was a lovely garden, but the air quality was poor, and the canals were full of brown water and crumbling homes. [PHOTO]

Moment when things got tense... When I was adjusting to the time difference. The beginning of the trip was so tough—I was literally waking up when I would normally go to bed, and vice versa. I think there were moments when Emily wished she could have gone out to do some exploring, but couldn't because I was out cold.

We're still laughing about... Our trip to Lotus Thai in Beijing. We were wandering around looking for a place for dinner when we spotted a hotel and decided to get a suggestion from an English-speaking concierge. He said that if we wanted Thai food, we should "turn left, walk to the KFC, and go downstairs." What?! KFC? But those were the exact directions. Thinking of it as an adventure, we forged ahead. Sure enough, we spotted the KFC several blocks later and realized that it was next to the entrance of a gigantic underground mall. Of course, the concierge had not said anything about a giant mall! The mall had several stories full of brightly lit, high-end shops, plus an indoor skating rink. [PHOTO] It was a wonderful find! And there, on the bottom story, was Lotus Thai.

Hotel we liked... The Beijing International Hotel. It had the most comfortable bed of the three hotels we stayed in across the country, and its proximity to great shopping and sightseeing spots like Tiananmen Square was perfect for us.

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12 Most Beautiful Lakes in the World

UNITED STATESCrater Lake Thousands of years ago, the top of a 12,000-foot-high volcano in the Cascade Range exploded. The massive pit left behind became known as Crater Lake, the centerpiece of a national park in southern Oregon that displays nature at its rawest and most powerful. Forests of towering evergreens and 2,000-foot-high cliffs surround the lake, where extraordinarily deep waters—at 1,943 feet, it's the deepest lake in the United States—yield an intense sapphire-blue hue. If winter hiking and cross-country skiing aren't your thing, wait until early July to visit, when the roads have been plowed and the trails cleared. Rim Drive, a 33-mile road that encircles the lake, has picture-perfect views from all sides. For a closer look, follow the mile-long Cleetwood Cove Trail to the shore. Brace yourself before diving in: The water temperature rarely rises above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.Nearby: The laid-back mountain town of Bend, 112 miles away, makes a nice home base for a Crater Lake day trip. SEE THE 12 MOST BEAUTIFUL LAKES IN THE WORLD! CANADAPeyto LakeAlberta's Lake Louise is the famous one, on all the postcards and posters. But Louise's sister lake 29 miles north along Icefields Parkway, a two-laner that winds 142 miles through the Canadian Rockies, is even more picturesque. Thanks to glacial rock flour that flows in when the ice and snow melt every summer, the waters of Banff National Park's Peyto Lake are a brilliant turquoise more often associated with warm-weather paradises like Antigua and Bora-Bora. For the most dramatic views of the 1.7-mile-long stunner, encircled with dense forest and craggy mountain peaks, pull into the lot at Bow Summit, the parkway's highest point, and follow the steep hike to the overlook.Nearby: The town of Banff, the heart of the park, is 62 miles south of Peyto Lake. MALAWI Lake Malawi Home to 1,000 species of fish—estimated to be more than anyplace on earth—Lake Malawi (also called Lake Nyasa) is Africa's third largest lake at 363 miles long and up to about 50 miles wide in spots. Located in a depression 2,300 feet below sea level, it's positioned at the crossroads of Malawi, Mozambique and Tanzania, and supports hundreds of local villages with its rich underwater stock (which is, unfortunately, gradually being depleted due to over-fishing). The lake's southern portion—as well as a bordering nub of wildlife-rich land, Cape Maclear—represents the world's first freshwater national park; it was also named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. A star of the waters here is the mbuna, a native freshwater fish known for eating directly from people's hands. Bring your snorkel gear—as beautiful as the scenery is, the best part about Lake Malawi is what's swimming beneath you in the crystal clear water. Nearby: Cape Maclear, located within Lake Malawi National Park, is a perfect base for exploring the area. PHILIPPINES Taal Lake This dangerous beauty, situated just 37.28 miles south of Manila, has two distinct claims to fame: It is the deepest lake in the Philippines, with a depth of 564 feet. It is also home to one of the world's smallest but most active volcanoes, the Taal Volcano, which sits within its waters on the island of Luzon. The lake itself was formed when a larger volcanic crater here collapsed; now seismologists spend a lot of time monitoring this spot for tremors, and sending out frequent eruption warnings through the country's Department of Tourism. Plenty of tour groups offer trips to the natural wonder—in spite of the fact that it has been declared a permanent danger zone. A safer way to see the volcano is by taking a drive along the Tagaytay-Taal ridge in nearby Tagaytay City. Nearby: Adjacent Tagaytay City offers some well-priced accommodations, in addition to the best views of the lake. GUATEMALALake Atitlán Nearly a mile up in the highlands of Guatemala, Atitlán (Lago de Atitlán) rests at the foot of three massive conical volcanoes. Small Mayan villages line its shores, which are set off by steep hills draped with oak and pine trees and nearly 800 plant species. There's no single, must-see view of the lake, so try several vantage points: from up high on Highway 1; from the town of Panajachel, the buzzing market hub that juts out into the water; or aboard a lancha, one of the many small boats that ferry visitors from village to village. We're saddened to note that the lake has built up high levels of blue-green algae over the years (in October and November 2009, a film of green scum began briefly marring its surface; since then there have been ambitious efforts to solve the problem).Nearby: Panajachel is about 2.5 hours by car from Guatemala City. SCOTLANDLoch Lomond With a backdrop of windswept rolling hills and medieval castles, Loch Lomond feels like it's straight out of a Victorian romance novel. The 24-mile-long lake is dotted with islands, some so small that they disappear when the water levels are high, and others large enough to be (sparsely) inhabited. Most ferries stop at the largest island, Inchmurrin (population 11), so visitors can get a look at the remains of a 7th-century monastery and the 14th century Lennox Castle, used often as a hunting lodge for kings.Nearby: The lake is 24 miles north of Glasgow and 66 west of Edinburgh. ITALYLake Garda If the shape of Italy is a couture boot, think of the imprint of Lake Garda as a design from the funky sister line—long and skinny at the top, opening up toward the bottom. Garda is the country's largest lake and one of the most popular vacation spots among Italians. The southern shore is home to hot springs, resort towns with pastel villas and terra-cotta-roofed hotels, and most of Garda's 28 miles of serene, pebbly beaches. To the north are the jagged peaks of the Dolomites, a magnet for hikers and bicyclists who want to test their endurance. In Malcesine, an adorable speck of a town with cobblestoned streets and a medieval castle, you can board a cable car up to Mount Baldo for one of the best aerial views of the lake.Nearby: Lake Garda is about halfway between Milan (89 miles away) and Venice (109 miles away), but to get the full, relaxing effect, stay in one of the south shore's many small towns. FRANCELake Annecy This alpine lake in the heart of the French Alps is a looker, but don't expect to spend your visit gazing over the water in quiet reflection. Lake Annecy is all about activity—particularly in August, when Paris shuts down and the French take extended holidays. Sailors, kayakers, and water-skiers crisscross the water; bikers and hikers hit surrounding nature trails; and refugees from the city fill the outdoor tables at the lakeside restaurants and bars. Repeat visitors know to plan their trip for the first Saturday of August, when a staggering, nearly two-hour-long fireworks display illuminates the water.Nearby: The closest major city is Geneva, 30 miles north, in Switzerland, but most people stay right on the lake. CROATIAPlitvice Lakes These 16 blue-green lakes, hidden by thick vegetation and connected by hundreds of waterfalls, could be the set for the next Jurassic Park. For adventure as well as killer views, start at one of the lower lakes and work your way up following the sturdy wooden planks that turn what could be a treacherous trek into a fun hike. Take a detour along the 10-minute loop that leads to the region's tallest fall, 230-foot-high Veliki Slap ("Big Waterfall"), a breadth of streaming white water that collects in turquoise pools. While hiking, keep your eyes peeled for deer, wildcats, boars, wolves, and bears—a more likely sighting than a T. rex.Nearby: There are four hotels in Plitvice Lakes National Park, but most people drive in for the day from Zagreb, about 2 hours by car. KENYALake Nakuru The water is blue enough, and the backdrop—grasslands and rocky hillsides—has the makings of a nice photo, but neither is what sets this lake in central Kenya apart. The real draw here is the mass of pink on Nakuru's edges. Flamingos are one of the few species that can withstand the lake's hostile conditions—the water has so much sodium carbonate that it burns nearly everything that touches it —and they flock to the lake en masse. There can be as many as a million birds feeding on algae in the shallows at one time, wading side by side.Nearby: The lake is in the heart of Lake Nakuru National Park, a sanctuary for black-and-white rhinos, three hours by car from Nairobi. NEW ZEALANDLake Matheson Alternately known as Mirror Lake, this South Island lake is famous for its reflections of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. Visiting just after dawn is ideal, when the water is at its calmest and mirror images are impossibly perfect. The lake itself is well worth exploring, too. Park near the Clearwater River suspension bridge and follow the 1-mile loop past kahikatea and rimu trees, which have extra-tall trunks and fanciful bushy tops and look like something from a Dr. Seuss book.Nearby: Fox Glacier township, a village that serves as a base camp for trekkers, is three miles east of the lake. SLOVENIALake Bled Why not get to the good stuff right away? To take in this Slovenian lake's most breathtaking vista, head immediately to Bled Castle, at the edge of a sheer, 460-foot-high cliff. You'll see mountains in every direction—the Julian Alps and the Karavanke range—and below, the Alpine lake and its main attraction, Bled Island, a tiny forested circle that's home to the 17th-century Church of the Assumption and its prominent baroque clock tower. Down on the lake's shore, board a pletna boat (similar to a gondola) to the island. Be sure to ring the church bell and make a wish before returning to the mainland. Mountains shield the water from icy northern winds, so Lake Bled is warm, relatively speaking (79 degrees Fahrenheit). If that's still too chilly, head to the lake's northern section, where three hotels have built pools around natural thermal springs.Nearby: The Slovenian capital of Ljubljana is an easy 35 miles away.

Just Back From... a Music-Themed Drive Through Tennessee

Great local meal... Brunch at Flapjacks Pancake Cabin in Pigeon Forge: wild mountain blueberry pancakes, flaky buttermilk biscuits, and water served in mason jars. [PHOTO] After our hearty meal—at less than $10 a person—we were in Great Smoky Mountain heaven. Our favorite part... The free Sunday-night songwriters' showcase at The Bluebird Cafe in Nashville. [PHOTO] It's located unexpectedly in a strip mall far from downtown Nashville but has jump-started the careers of musicians like Garth Brooks and Kenny Chesney. Two of my friends, Adrian Hardkor and Ken Francis Wenzel, were playing their second show while we were in town, and we brought along my Betsey Johnson associates to cheer them on. It's a place where people go to appreciate the music, not to chat (T-shirts sold with the Bluebird logo on the front read "shhhhh" on the back). What we should have packed... Heavy-duty sunscreen. It was hotter than Hades in the shade in Tennessee—100 degrees every day. What we shouldn't have packed? Our Nashville guidebook. We never used it. Everything we needed was either a happy discovery or on my iPhone. Total rip-off... While we loved Dollywood, at $55 apiece plus $8 for parking, it was too pricey for what we got. We spent most of the day walking around trying to find rides. They were very spaced out, and the park maps only seemed to be located at the entrance. Fun surprise... In Lebanon, we stopped for lunch at Uncle Pete's Super Truck Stop and Restaurant—and who should saunter over to our booth and sit down next to me but Uncle Pete! He told us about his signed photos of country music stars and how Dolly Parton once stopped in during a snowstorm and stayed to sign autographs. Uncle Pete owns over 4,000 mugs, including ones for every state and 40 countries. [PHOTO] He broke the world record in 2000 for the largest mug collection and has drunk out of each one. Best purchases... The $3 guitar-shaped flyswatter I got at Ernest Tubb Record Shop [PHOTO] and the cowboy boots Brenda found at Boots 'N' More on Broadway in Nashville. At Boots 'N' More, we spotted a cardboard box lying on the ground filled with sadly neglected shoes and labeled "everything in this box $20." Brenda came away with a pair of cute, cream-and-pink low-top cowboy boots that were originally $179. Overrated... Beale Street. The street musicians were fantastic, [PHOTO] but it was very touristy. The shops all carried the same overpriced Memphis memorabilia, and the police barricaded the end of the street off and carded everyone who walked through. We felt like we were on spring break in Miami, but without the beach. Worth every penny... The Drive-By Truckers concert, part of Knoxville's Sundown in the City outdoor concert series. [PHOTO] It was free, but I would pay money to see this band! They play southern rock with a twang. Market Square was set up with tents lining the park. We saw people leaning out of the shop and bar windows that overlooked the stage. At dusk, a crowd was dancing on the rooftops. We were front and center and got a good view of an older fan wearing a hat made out of a PBR box [PHOTO] and a girl sitting on her boyfriend's shoulders who flashed the band to the applause of the crowd. It was a "Did that really just happen?" moment. Hotel we liked... The fabulously quirky Hotel St. Oliver in Knoxville. [PHOTO] You take a leather-clad elevator upstairs, where a real metal key lets you in (after a few sticky tries). The rooms are filled with antiques, old framed photos, and a surprise at every turn. We loved the sculpture of a metal eagle on the claw-foot table at the end of the bed and the sepia-toned photos in the bathroom. I felt like I had stepped into the Professor's house in The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe and would discover a wardrobe with Narnia hidden behind some musty, fur coats. The view from the window looked out on Market Square, so we could watch the bands getting ready for sound check.

7 Travel Secrets of Top Show Dogs

SADIE THE SCOTTISH TERRIER (See a photo)The Reigning ChampSadie ranks number one in the U.S., and the terrier from Rialto, Calif., is on the go every other week, three to four days at a time. Her entourage is never short of paper towels, wipes, and grooming tools, because you never know when a fan may request an impromptu photograph.Handlers' tip: Handlers Gabriel and Ivonne Rangel accustomed Sadie to being inside a soft carrier from the age of one. The Rangels say: "Make sure your dog gets used to a crate before a trip. Start by using it daily for just a few minutes at a time. Once he or she is more relaxed (maybe after a week or more), take your dog in the carrier to a favorite spot, like the park." WALKER THE TOY POODLE (See a photo)Mr. High-MaintenanceTraveling to nearly 150 dog shows per year, Walker is like George Clooney in Up in the Air: He expects to be doted upon constantly. "He hates rain, wind, hot, and cold, and he wants everything done in the same way for each show," says his handler, Kaz Hosaka. "He's a sweet, spoiled boy. A sissy boy."Handler's tip: "I once got on a plane without my dog making it. Never again! If one of my dogs has to travel in cargo, I ask a gate agent to communicate with the luggage handlers to confirm the dog is in the hold before I board. The agents are usually nice about checking." MALACHY THE PEKINGESE (See a photo)The Weekend WarriorTo keep his standing as the number one toy dog in the U.S., Malachy hits the circuit every weekend, usually by car. He's a good traveler but—like any Pekingese—is prone to overheating.Handler's tip: If nature calls when there's an airport security checkpoint between you and the outdoors, what to do? "A Wee-Wee Pad [fourpaws.com, from $8] is a way to avoid passing through security twice," says his owner-handler, David Fitzpatrick. Lay a pad on a bathroom floor. TOMMY THE MALTESE (See a photo)Old-World CharmerThis winner of best of breed awards at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show and the AKC/Eukanuba National Championship has visited Italy, France, and Croatia, where he seemed quite at home—perhaps because of his European ancestry.Handler's tip: "Some fliers don't realize that the dog has to come out of the carrier at the security checkpoint," says Tommy's owner-handler Tara Martin Rowell. "My advice is—with shoes and laptop and the rest of your gear—to wait until the last possible moment to let the dog out." UNO THE BEAGLE (See a photo)The Veteran FlierIn 2008, Uno earned his barking rights: He is the first beagle in the century-plus history of Westminster to nab the big prize. His "foster father," David Frei has been Uno's flying companion for years, and he offers this advice: "Be prepared for absolutely anything to happen. Uno was once picked at random for additional screening in the airport. Even the TSA workers, not known for their sense of humor, were smiling about this."Handler's tip: Pets earn rewards on Continental, JetBlue, and Pet Airways, but not on most other airlines. One work-around: Pet carry-on fees can be $100 or so. If you charge them on a rewards credit card, you'll indirectly earn frequent-flier miles toward your next trip. MANFRED OF SWEDEN, THE YORKSHIRE TERRIER (See a photo)The FashionistaBased in Malmö, Sweden, Manfred puts the "trot" back into "globe-trotting." He's recently been to Antwerp, Los Angeles, and New York City. The internationally famous pooch always travels with stylish outfits, such as a lambskin biker jacket or a Rolling Stones hoodie, because he's the mascot for the dog fashion house that bears his name.Handlers' tip: When leaving the country, bring all of your dog's records of shots and vaccines, because no dog owner is immune to being quizzed by the authorities, says Björn and Ann Gärdsby, Manfred's owners. You otherwise risk having your dog quarantined.Bonus tip: When traveling by air, always carry a leash with you—in case the airline loses your checked luggage.

Hidden Corners of Europe

PORTUGALSerra da Estrela Thirty minutes west of the Spanish border, the Serra da Estrela has long been known as Portugal's answer to the Pyrenees for its ragged peaks, fortified towns, and medieval schist villages. Lately, however, the 600-square-mile region has received a makeover from Lisbon and Porto natives who have begun weekending here in place of the more popular coast. Minimalist hotels and high-toned spas sit just up the road from terraced vineyards and olive groves, making for that perfect marriage between old and new. Where to Stay The Casa das Penhas Douradas is a 21st-century take on a traditional Portuguese mountain house. Done in a clean-lined Scandinavian style, the 17-room hotel has timber-paneled walls, an indoor pool, and floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the surrounding peaks. In the evenings, guests gather by the fire for local Dão wine or assemble at a communal dinner table, where owner João Tomás is known to hold court (casadaspenhasdouradas.pt, rooms from $128, includes breakfast). Local Flavor At the Pousada Convento de Belmonte, a refurbished 13th-century convent, Brazilian chef Valdir Lubave blends New World and Old World cuisines in creations like fragrant pea soup with basil ice cream or guava soufflé (conventodebelmonte.pt, entrées from $14). MACEDONIA Ohrid Like Prague and Dubrovnik before it, this lakeside town just north of Greece has all the makings of Europe's next affordable hotspot. Built at the edge of Lake Ohrid, in Macedonia's southwest corner, the city pairs the charm of the Dalmatian Coast (terra-cotta-roofed homes tumble down hillsides to boat slips on the water) with reminders of its Ottoman past. In the Old Bazaar, a warren of labyrinthine streets, merchants hawk silver jewelry and "pearls" made from fish scales. Around town, Byzantine churches sit silently in narrow alleys and on limestone cliffs. During the day, visitors row boats to secluded pebble beaches, while at night, they gather at the waterfront promenade to sip coffee and watch partygoers stream into the dance clubs lining the shore. Where to Stay Opened in 2008, the Grebnos Stone-House Apartments are just two blocks from the shore, and each room comes with a sun-drenched terrace. For the true (if slightly primitive) Lake Ohrid experience, guests can also stay in owner Pavel Pop Stefanija's tiny cabin on a private beach in the nearby village of Trpejca (grebnos.com, rooms from $45, cabin-stay included). Local Flavor Within the Old Bazaar, vendors set up daily to peddle Macedonian street food like leblebija (roasted chickpeas), shopska salata (veggies and sirenje cheese), and greena rakija (spiced brandy). AUSTRIA Dürnstein On the banks of the Danube, in the shadow of a castle from the Middle Ages, Dürnstein is one of those impossibly quaint towns where everything, from the baroque clock tower to the cobblestoned alleys, seems lifted straight from the Brothers Grimm. Just an hour downriver from Vienna, Dürnstein is an under-explored retreat and a gateway to the surrounding Wachau valley, a grape region prized for crisp Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners. To experience the area like a local, take a seat inside a Heuriger, a cozy tavern that sells only indigenous wines, namely those from the most recent harvest. Authentic establishments hang fir branches above their doorways to welcome the thirsty, while Schrammelmusik (traditional fiddle-and-accordion folk music) plays from within. Where to Stay Open from March to November, the 16-room Hotel Restaurant Sänger Blondel, which is named after Richard the Lionheart's legendary minstrel, is located squarely under Dürnstein's clock tower. The Schendl family has owned the house since 1729 and hosts Thursday-evening zither concerts, often under the shade of the chestnut trees out back (saengerblondel.at, from $61). Local Flavor Although the Wachau is known for its grapes, it is the Marille (apricot) that sets the region apart. In early April, the valley erupts in pale-pink blossoms, and the fruit begins showing up in strudels, pork dishes, and Marillenknödel (apricot dumplings rolled in butter-toasted bread crumbs). Wieser Wachau Shop & Café, with locations throughout the valley, sells apricot soap, schnapps, and marmalade (wieser-wachau.at). SWITZERLAND Binn Life moves slowly in the village of Binn—and that's by design. Years ago, the residents of this tiny Alpine town (pop. 150, two and a half hours from Bern) decided to stave off development by preserving the surrounding valley as a park. Today, Binn remains a time capsule of village life. Gravel lanes wind between neat pine chalets. Flower boxes filled with geraniums hang from every window. Up the Binna River, visitors will find even smaller hamlets and picture-perfect meadows, where they can spread out a picnic of local wine and raclette cheese and listen to the cowbells ring down from the high pastures. Where to Stay Built in 1883, the 35-room Hotel Ofenhorn embraces its history. Its four Nostalgic Rooms have original hardwood floors, antique furniture, and art nouveau wallpaper, all of which recall the days when a young Winston Churchill stopped through while on a painting tour of the Alps (ofenhorn.ch, from $108, includes breakfast). Local Flavor About a mile from Binn, the riverside Restaurant Imfeld is a thoroughly traditional establishment with a menu that includes fresh trout and Valais air-dried beef—prepared by rubbing salt, herbs, and spices into raw beef and leaving it to dry in a wooden barn for at least six weeks (011-41/27-971-4596, entrées from $9). FRANCE Pèrigord Noir While provence is justifiably famous for its rosé and rustic gîtes (holiday rental homes), that celebrity comes at a high price. Nearly a straight shot across the country, close to Bordeaux, the cluster of market towns known as Périgord Noir offers weekly cottage rentals at nearly half the cost—and the small-town experience is no less picturesque. Cut through by the sweeping arc of the Dordogne River, the area is best known for its dark oak forests, hillside vineyards, medieval châteaux, truffle-infused cuisine, and, of course, the prehistoric cave paintings at Lascaux. Where to Stay A 20-minute walk from the town of Trémolat (pop. 600), Les Volets Bleus is a restored 300-year-old farmhouse and converted barn with exposed-wood beams, a stone fireplace, and room enough for 12. Guests are free to explore with rental bikes (delivered to your doorstep), paddle a canoe along the Dordogne, dine on duck and crepes at the night market in nearby Cadouin, and stroll the surrounding acres of peach, fig, and walnut trees—the latter used throughout the region to make vin de noix, or walnut wine (myfrenchfarmhouse.com, from $1,596 per week). Local flavor At Les Truffières, a farm-to-table restaurant in Trémolat, Yanick Le Goff serves everything from barbecued duck and lavender-tinged aperitifs to a house-made foie gras (011-33/5-53-27-30-44, six-course family-style meal with wine $34, reservations required).