Le café in Paris: A buyer's guide

Trips to cheer up those winter blues, whether you're looking to flee the cold or embrace it European Ski VillagesWe're spotlighting three storybook ski villages, in Switzerland, Austria, and Italy. Each is authentic to its roots, more affordable than people imagine, and perfect in its own way. Grand Bahama IslandThe choice is yours: sitting in your cubicle watching the clock tick or sipping a bahama mama on the deck at rumrunners Kauai, HawaiiHow do we love Hawaii's greenest slice of paradise? Michael Endelman counts the top 25 ways, in no particular order LondonLearning to love London sounds so easy, right? The city's charms are legendary. But as Dave Herndon found out when he moved there for all the right reasons, the dropping dollar has London playing hard to get MiamiA our seven-page mini-guide to all things Miami, including hotels, restaurants, and attractions New York CityThere are 8 million experts in New York City--and counting. Charlie Suisman, the man behind Manhattan User's Guide website, agreed to cherry-pick a few places you mustn't miss Quebec CityThe soul of New France is now a sophisticated city of one million. Head north of the border to discover its charms for yourself Reno, NevadaThe poor man's Vegas is having a moment. Sleek new bars are mixing with existing kitsch to make Reno an ideal three-day weekend destination The Sea Islands, GeorgiaThe Georgia coastline--yes, Georgia has a coastline--is a many-splendored place. And the vibe changes dramatically from island to island to island St. LuciaFor three men raised on the Caribbean island of St. Lucia, growing up meant getting out. But each found his way home--and now runs a small hotel there. Whitney Pastorek finds out what drew them back

1. Fruit loopy Every day of the week--except on Sundays--there's a farmer's market happening somewhere on the island (for a schedule, see realkauai.com/FarmersMarkets). Hanalei's (pictured) is especially sweet, with dreadlocked, barefoot moms buying lychees, mountain apples, and eggfruits in a pretty jungle clearing. Kuhio Hwy., Tuesdays at 2 p.m. 2. Nature's alarm clock Legend has it that 1992's Hurricane Iniki freed hundreds of roosters and chickens from their coops. They scattered all over Kauai and started breeding with impunity. Because they don't have any natural predators (Kauai is the only Hawaiian island without mongooses), roosters now roam everywhere, even on the fanciest of golf courses. Regardless of how they managed to get the run of the place, your wake-up call will likely be a feathered friend crowing as soon as the sun rises. 3. Fifty miles of sand Kauai claims more than 40 white-sand beaches, so you never need to fight for a spot. Many of the established beaches (Poipu, Kee, Lydgate) have changing rooms, bathrooms, and freshwater showers; remote, secluded bays offer a more rustic experience. Just look for a cluster of cars pulled over on the highway--a beach is probably nearby. For descriptions, directions, and safety information, buy a copy of the Kauai Underground Guide (explorekauai.com, $13). 4. Friday night lights Hanapepe is an oasis of sorts: It's the unofficial art capital of the island and, as a highway sign touts, KAUAI'S BIGGEST LITTLE TOWN. It's no metropolis, but an actual main drag is lined with small shops and art galleries in plantation-era wooden storefronts, and they all stay open until 9 p.m. for a Friday Night Art Walk. That's considered very late in these parts. And, notable for the west side of Kauai, there's some excellent vegetarian food at the Hanapepe Café (3830 Hanapepe Rd., 808/335-5011; reservations essential for dinner Fridays, entrées from $16), best followed by ice-cream at the original location of local favorite Lappert's (1-3555 Kaumualii Hwy., 808/ 335-6121, $3.35 for one scoop). 5. Cottage living In 1983, the Waimea Sugar Mill Company plantation--on the sleepy west side of Kauai--was turned into a resort. Waimea Plantation Cottages, as it's now known, features 54 spacious, tastefully renovated 1930s-era cottages (each with kitchens, grills, and lanais), as well as five hotel-style rooms and two studios. After a morning of scrambling through Waimea Canyon or hiking the nearby Na Pali Coast, the resort's shaded hammocks are the best possible reward. Note: The surf at the hotel's black-sand beach is too rough for swimming. 9400 Kaumualii Hwy., 808/338-1625, waimea-plantation.com, from $140. 6. All the island's a stage With scenery like this, it's no wonder that directors favor Kauai when they need a stand-in for an exotic Asian destination or a spooky jungle lair. So many films have been shot here that there's a five-hour minibus tour that points out locations used in South Pacific, Jurassic Park, Honeymoon in Vegas, Blue Hawaii, and other motion pictures. 808/822-1192, hawaiimovietour.com, $101, includes hotel pickup/drop-off and lunch. 7. Five-star sundowners Don't blow your nest egg on a $500 room: The Princeville Resort's famous view of crescent-shaped Hanalei Bay (with the emerald Bali Hai coast rising above it) is available for $9--the price of a mai tai at the Living Room, Princeville's indoor/outdoor lobby bar. Brilliant purple-orange sunsets bring out the shutterbugs, so get there early for a seat. Live music starts nightly at 7 p.m. 808/826-9644, princeville.com. 8. Hawaii untamed Kauai's premier attraction is the 15-mile Na Pali Coast, a dramatic stretch in the island's wild northwest corner. Waimea-based Na Pali Explorer leads a five-hour tour on a 48-foot, hard-bottomed Zodiac that's small enough to maneuver into sea caves and isolated snorkeling spots. Upon reaching Na Pali's westernmost point, you'll be dazzled by cliffs, waterfalls, beaches, and emerald valleys. When the captain declares, "Welcome to my office," you'll cry with envy. 808/338-9999, napali-explorer.com, $125. 9. Mark Twain's approval The 3,567-foot-deep Waimea Canyon was impressive enough to the well-traveled Twain for him to call it "the Grand Canyon of the Pacific." Lazy sightseers can pull over at any of the lookouts along Highway 550, but the alternately barren and lush landscape is best explored on the many trails in Kokee State Park. Pick up a map at the Kokee Natural History Museum (on Hwy. 550, just past the 15-mile marker; 808/335-9975, kokee.org, free). If you get an early enough start, drive to the end of the road for a peek into the Kalalau Valley and the Na Pali Coast beyond. Later in the day, however, rain and fog are likely to ruin the IMAX-worthy view. 10. Quicker and easier Both American and United offer nonstop service to Lihue, eliminating that frustrating transfer in Honolulu. There are daily flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco, which makes getting to paradise that much less of a hassle. 11. Pigging out To fill up like a local, find a "plate lunch," an only-in-Hawaii experience that matches a hefty portion of protein (maybe teriyaki chicken or barbecue ribs) with two sides (usually giant scoops of rice, potato salad, or macaroni salad), for under $10. The plate lunch at the Koloa Fish Market is a gourmet experience hidden inside a Styrofoam container: roasted kalua pig with sides of ahi poke--raw ahi tuna tossed in soy sauce and spices--and salt-cured lomi salmon salad (5482 Koloa Rd., Koloa, 808/742-6199). In Hanalei, the simply named Mixed Plate serves a kind of hippie-fied version, with brown rice and tofu stir-fries alongside the salty and deep-fried entrées that Hawaiians love (5-5190 Kuhio Hwy., 808/826-7888). 12. Boobies on parade Red-footed boobies are some of the countless rare seabirds that flock to the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge--and if you're lucky, you'll also spot seals and whales. Home to the 1913 Kilauea Point Lighthouse, the refuge is the northernmost spot on the island, as well as the first sight of land for ships sailing in from Asia. End of Kilauea Rd., 808/828-1413, $3. 13. King Kong Browse for minimalist, Asian-style housewares at Kong Lung Co., which describes itself as a "Pacific Rim emporium" (Lighthouse Rd., Kilauea, 808/828-1822). The adjoining boutique, Cake, might be the only place in Kauai where fashionistas can feel truly comfortable (808/828-6412). Just down the road in Hanalei, the Yellowfish Trading Co. sells a mix of vintage beach-inspired furnishings, kitschy exotica, and aloha shirts (Hanalei Center, 808/826-1227). 14. Condomania The south side of the island has plenty of giant resorts and chain hotels, but 65 percent of repeat visitors gravitate toward cottage or condo rentals. A condo is almost a necessity on the North Shore, where it can be difficult to nail down a hotel room for under $200. Regency Pacific Realty is a good place to begin looking; it represents lots of North Shore properties, including condos beginning at $99, and most important, it has a website with up-to-date photos and virtual tours of every rental. 800/826-7782, regencypacificrealty.com. 15. Hello, Mrs. Chips In a dilapidated Hanapepe house, Shizuko Nagamine and her son, Dale, hand-fry taro, sweet-potato, and potato chips to a perfect crisp. Bet you can't eat just one (bag, that is). Taro Ko Chips factory, 3940 Hanapepe Rd., 808/335-5586, $2.50. 16. Summer school Plenty of tourists attempt to live out their Endless Summer fantasies by taking two-hour lessons at easy-going Poipu Beach (Kauai Surf School, 808/651-6032, kauaisurfschool.com; $75, includes surfboard rental). Those who'd rather try windsurfing can opt for three hours with Celeste Harvel, who has 25 years of teaching experience and the tan to prove it. "The most important thing is that you won't embarrass yourself," she says at the beginning of the lesson at the North Shore's Anini Beach, which has a shallow, sandy bottom and a steady wind. Two hours later, the entire class is smoothly skipping across the bay, while Harvel scoots around giving pointers with her dog, Kahili, riding shotgun on her board (Windsurf Kauai, 808/828-6838, $85, includes equipment rental). 17. The bright side You don't get a nickname like the Garden Island without plenty of rain. Even in the drier summer months an afternoon shower is common, but don't let it bum you out--the drops won't come down for more than 30 minutes. Stronger storms do occur in the winter, but even then, an hour's drive to the opposite shore will usually find sunny, clear skies. 18. Poke dokey The raw-fish dish poke--pronounced po-keh--is a revelation to anyone who thinks Hawaiian food begins with sour poi (fermented mashed taro) and ends with dry, salty kalua pig. Meaning "to slice" or "cut" in Hawaiian, poke is similar to seviche, consisting of raw fish mixed with marinade and spices. The typical version features tuna cubes with soy sauce, chili pepper, seaweed, roasted kukui nuts, and green onions, but even supermarket deli counters have new-school versions throwing in everything from octopus to kimchi to oysters. Then there are the ahi nachos at Hukilau Lanai, which slickly represent Hawaii's cross-cultural Asian-Californian fusion: Ahi poke is layered with crunchy wonton chips, avocado, and wasabi dressing. Kauai Coast Resort, 4-484 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa, 808/822-0600, $11. 19. A touchy subject Debbie Erickson, a relocated Brooklynite, sells fruit and veggies on Tuesdays at the Hanalei farmer's market, but she's also a massage therapist. She'll deliver an excellent 60-minute rubdown on your hotel-room or condo lanai that mixes in traditional Hawaiian lomi lomi massage, a deep and slow application of pressure at precise points on your body. 808/828-1174 or 808/635-2857, from $75 (price depends on how far she has to drive). 20. Bean there, done that The Big Island's Kona region gets all the attention, but there's quality coffee grown on the Garden Island as well. The earthy-crunchy Java Kai chain, which roasts its coffee on Kauai, has four locations on the island (and several in California). Or go to the source and visit the Blair Estate, an organic farm in the hills above Kapaa. Founded by mainland transplants Les and Gigi Drent in 2001, the couple (and their 18-month-old daughter, Jessica) have a wood house on five acres of land where they grow, roast, package, and then ship beans around the globe. It's proved to be so popular that their second crop sold out in two months, so they've been roasting Kona-grown coffee until their new batch of beans is ready this winter. Call ahead for the weekly tour schedule, and the couple will give you a taste and show you around. "Everyone offers a tour, right?" says the plain-spoken Gigi. "So, whatever, we'll do a tour. But it's not much." Barefoot and with Jessica on her hip, Gigi strolls through the fields, picking fresh lychees, petting the Drents' goatlike sheep, and telling stories of the struggles of a tropical homestead. It's worth a visit for the commentary alone, though their rich, heady coffee is the best on the island. Just don't ask for sugar. 6200-B Kawaihau Rd., 808/822-4495, blairestatecoffee.com, one-pound bag $17-$35. 21. Star trek To get a close look at the mythic Na Pali Coast, take a hike on the Kalalau Trail, which begins at Kee Beach, at the very end of Kuhio Highway on the North Shore. The full 11-mile trip is only recommended for very experienced hikers--the Sierra Club rates the trail as a 9, with 10 the most difficult--but the two miles to secluded Hanakapiai Beach aren't so hard. Start early to avoid the crowds. After climbing through deep jungle gullies and scaling windy cliffs, you'll reach Hanakapiai, a sight to be thankful for. The pristine beach is buffeted by unrelenting waves, though, so resist the urge to dive in. Swimming there is highly dangerous. 22. Sushi burrito That's the simple concept of the ahi nori wrap at the Mermaid Cafe in Kapaa, a small outdoor restaurant with a few tables and one incredible dish that attracts fans from around the island. A hefty tortilla is rolled around barely seared ahi, a sheet of dried seaweed, vinegary sushi rice, cucumber, and a wasabi cream sauce. It's the perfect lunch: spicy and sweet, healthy and filling, crunchy and creamy. 1384 Kuhio Hwy., 808/821-2026, $9. 23. Up a creek Four hours kayaking up and hiking beyond the Wailua River isn't relaxing: Arms ache, shoes get covered in mud, and bug bites itch like mad. But the payoff midway through--a swim in a freshwater pool under a thundering waterfall--makes the journey worthwhile. Bring a picnic. Kayak Wailua, Kapaa, 808/822-3388, kayakwailua.com, $40. 24. Really cool food When body-conscious Hollywood types come to Kauai, they dine at Kapaa's upscale vegan-fusion restaurant Blossoming Lotus, where they can choose from several "live food" dishes--nothing gets cooked above 116 degrees--and eat in a private room upstairs. True to Kauai's accommodating nature, the food is also organic and kosher (and pretty tasty). The Garden Island salad, studded with cucumbers and maple-toasted almonds, is best accompanied, of course, by Green Goddess dressing ($8). 4504 Kukui St., 808/822-7678. 25. A drive divine Except for the one consistently backed-up stretch in Kapaa, Kauai's sleepy highways are a dream for gridlock-weary commuters. Of all the great roads on the island, the best is Highway 550, which parallels Waimea Canyon and climbs up into Kokee State Park. The ride down is worth savoring: With a gaping canyon to the left, deep-blue ocean straight ahead, and fields of sugarcane to the right, tight, steep switchbacks give way to gentle, undulating S-curves.

1. Keys to a mansion In Tamboerskloof, a warren of streets winding up Signal Hill, dozens of 19th-century mansions have been converted into guesthouses. An African Villa, co-owned by Jimmy van Tonder and Louis Nel, is decorated in a Modern African style; a lamp in the lobby (pictured) is shaped like the head of an oryx, a type of antelope (19 Carstens St., 011-27/21-423-2164, capetowncity.co.za/villa, from $135). Further uphill, 1 on Queens imports Tuscan style with a terra-cotta patio and simple rooms (1 Queens Rd., 011-27/21-422-0004, 1onqueens.co.za, from $80). 2. Regal flora Cape Town is part of what's called a Floral Kingdom, a region with thousands of plant species that aren't found anywhere else. This kingdom is by far the smallest of the world's six, with more than 5,800 endemic species in a 35,000-square-mile area. The crown jewel is the king protea, an armored tulip that looks like it's been around since the dinosaurs. Most of the foliage, including the protea, comes to life in spring and summer (September through March), though at least one plant from every variety is always on display at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, on the side of Table Mountain. Rhodes Dr., Newlands, 011-27/21-799-8783, nbi.ac.za/frames/kirstfram.htm, $3.50. 3. When the "tablecloth" suddenly lifts In a region of fickle weather, there's one thing you can almost always count on: a thick pillow of clouds atop 3,560-foot-tall Table Mountain. The "tablecloth," as locals call it, often lasts for days and then disappears overnight. Keep one eye on the mountain, so you can head up the moment the cloud cover clears. The mountain's website has a ticker with up-to-the-minute visibility news. Tablemountain.net. 4. Cosmic sunsets In 1997, the cableway that takes visitors up Table Mountain added a twist, literally: The tram slowly revolves as it rises. Hiking trails also wind up through the mountain's crevasses; the Platteklip Gorge path, from Tafelberg Road, was the first known ascent (in 1503), and the two-hour hike is still the easiest way up on foot. The top is cosmic--the gray sandstone plateau looks like the surface of another planet. Expect to reach the summit by sunset, and bring a bottle of wine. (The only restaurant at the top, Dizzie Dazzie, closes before the sunset is over.) Note: Resist the urge to linger. The last tram down follows the final sliver of sun, between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. depending on the season. 011-27/21-424-8181, tablemountain.net, round trip $17. 5.  The big bang, daily At noon, a gun goes off on Signal Hill--the blast can be heard all around the city. It was originally intended to herald the arrival of ships into port. Today, it heralds brunch. 6. Snacks with wanderlust Sold from carts in most neighborhoods and at many 7-Elevens, Cape Town's street food reflects the city's diversity. Try bobotie, a curried mince pie originally made by the Cape Malay people; biltong, a thick South African jerky cured from beef, kudu, or ostrich; and Indian samosas, deep-fried pastry pockets of spicy meats. 7. March of many penguins A sign on the walk approaching Boulders Beach reads: the easiest place in the world to make the acquaintance of penguins. It's no joke. There's a real colony of more than 4,000 African penguins, waddling around and fishing and paying absolutely no attention to the many pasty sunbathers competing for the sand. 1 Kleintuin Rd., Simon's Town, 011-27/21-786-2329, $2.25. 8. Backseat drivers Hundreds of minibus taxis hurtle around town, stopping at random to pick up anyone ready for a little risk and a tight squeeze. Flag one almost anywhere (though for safety's sake it's best to stay in well-populated areas), and grab a seat with the other passengers. A guy in the back serves as a sort of carnival barker, shouting out the next stop from an open window. You can figure that most destinations in the city cost under a few bucks. A less alarming way to get oriented is a topless double-decker bus. The bright red Cape Town Explorer buses stop at 15 major attractions--from the city center to the Atlantic beach communities--and allow riders to get on and off at their leisure (011-27/21-511-1784, hyltonross.co.za, full day $14). 9. Oceans that kiss It's a popular misconception that Cape Point, a.k.a. the Cape of Good Hope, is the southernmost tip of Africa. (That distinction actually belongs to Cape Agulhas, a few hours to the east.) Nonetheless, Cape Point, a finger of rocky land 45 minutes south of town, where the Atlantic and Indian oceans abut, is spectacular. To get to the top, you hike 15 minutes uphill or take the five-minute ride on the funicular (look out for--but do not feed--the precocious chacma baboons, which roam free around the area). A lighthouse is one of the only buffers between you and constant 50-mile-per-hour winds, which add to the whole land's-end feeling of it all. Capepoint.co.za, $5.30. 10. Prison for a day It's impossible to visit South Africa without acknowledging apartheid and its aftereffects. The notorious Robben Island prison, a dusty spit of land in Table Bay where Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years behind bars, is a 30-minute ferry ride away. The island became a national monument in 1997; former political prisoners now run 21/2-hour tours that take in, among other things, the maximum-security facility and the garden Mandela started as a way to stay sane. The tours tend to fill up early, so it's best to book well in advance. 011-27/21-413-4220, robben-island.org.za, tour $23. 11. Lobster by another name Just about every menu in town features "line fish," meaning whatever's fresh off the boat that day. Yellowtail and kingklip are both common, as is crayfish--which is actually what locals call lobster. At the beachside restaurant Paranga, in Camps Bay, succulent tails are chopped and served atop a bed of crispy lettuce. Shop No. 1 The Promenade, 011-27/21-438-0404, crayfish salad $25. 12. Pith helmet not included Capetonians' colonial heritage runs deep. Nowhere is that more apparent than at The Mount Nelson Hotel, a vast pink complex in the city's Garden section. A longtime haven for rich travelers, it also welcomes rubberneckers to an all-you-can-eat afternoon tea ($17), a mass of cookies, crumpets, and crustless sandwiches. 76 Orange St., 011-27/21-483-1000, mountnelson.co.za, 2:30 p.m.--5:30 p.m. 13. Reincarnated rubbish Every day, artisans from countries all across the continent gather at the city's largest outdoor market, in Greenmarket Square, to hawk handmade toys, sculptures, and boxes crafted from discarded materials. You might find a radio cobbled together from Fanta soda cans and bits of scrap wire, or a bag made of Amstel beer bottle caps. A couple blocks away, African crafts--masks, instruments, jewelry--are sold in the Pan-African Market, three stories of well-curated miniboutiques (76 Long St., between Longmarket and Shortmarket Sts., 011-27/21-426-4478). 14. Language gaps People in Cape Town speak English, but it's their own version. One marvelous example: They call traffic lights "robots." 15. Downhill shopping Kloof Street, starting near the intersection of De Lorentz Street, attracts the stylish set. Browse swank home interiors at Klooftique (87 Kloof St., 011-27/21-424-9458), mid-century modern furniture at Karizma (39 Kloof St., 011-27/21-424-0289), and locally designed men's streetwear at A Suitable Boy (43 Kloof St., 011-27/82-357-5097). Downhill, when Kloof changes to Long Street, the vibe becomes more bohemian, à la San Francisco's Haight Street, with skate shops, used bookstores, and one of the city's most popular bars, Jo'Burg (220 Long St., 011-27/21-422-0142). 16. Umpteen beaches The Cape is one big peninsula, and every few miles, sandy bays peek out between rocky cliffs. The city's Atlantic coast, called the Cape Riviera, attracts all types: Surfers opt for Llandudno (pictured); the uninhibited go to clothing-optional Sandy Bay; beautiful people spend their lunch break strutting on the promenade at Camps Bay; and hardbodies congregate at Fourth Beach, one of four numerically named beaches in Clifton. Not that the point is to get wet; the water arrives by way of the South Pole. 17. Crocopaccio! It is entirely possible to vist Cape Town and feel like you're nowhere near the bush--that is, until you enter Khaya Nyama, a restaurant that puts an haute spin on wildlife with unusual dishes like crocodile carpaccio ($5.50) and grilled zebra steak ($14). 267 Long St., 011-27/21-424-2917. #18 Helicoptering qualifies as a sport A fleet of pilots along the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront peddle helicopter tours of the Cape. A 20-minute flight generally runs about $100 and takes in the city, the Clifton beaches, and Table Mountain. Sport Helicopters, run by Ernest McDonald, was the first outfitter around. The hour-long ride is a splurge at $300, but if you ask nicely the pilot might take you for a detour over Robben Island, which helps put its isolation in even greater perspective. 011-27/21-419-5907, sporthelicopters.co.za. 19. A head trip Like the nature-loving natives of San Francisco--it's pretty much impossible not to compare Cape Town to San Francisco, by the way--people in Cape Town don't take their dramatic geography for granted. The local tourism website has information about the many trails within city limits. Among the best: the 90-minute hike up Lion's Head. It's hard going, but the 360-degree views of the city and the Atlantic at the top make the haul worth it. Tourismcapetown.co.za. 20. Jewelry makers on house call Terri van Schaik at Pure Africa works with local artisans to make traditional jewelry with a modern spin--and a conscience: A quarter of the company's profit is reinvested in the artisans' often impoverished communities. Pure Africa's pieces are sold at a number of local gift shops, but Terri will also come to you, bringing her latest line to hotels and inns around town. 011-27/82-370-9694, pureafrica.co.za. 21. A road best driven in reverse A six-mile succession of hairy switchbacks cut into cliffs above the Atlantic, Chapman's Peak Drive gives the Pacific Coast Highway a run for its money. Rock slides closed the road from 2000 until last year; now, elaborate catch fences and concrete overhangs deflect stray boulders. The road runs from Hout Bay, southwest of the city center, to Noordhoek, and you can drive it either direction, or go both ways (chapmanspeakdrive.co.za, $3 toll). The reverse route from Noordhoek to Hout Bay is best for two reasons: better views from the left side of the road (South Africans follow British traffic rules), and the opportunity to finish in Hout Bay, home of the stately Chapman's Peak Hotel. On a balcony overlooking a horseshoe beach, reward yourself with a cold Lion beer on draft, and calamari seared and served in the same cast-iron pan (Chapman's Peak Dr., Hout Bay, 011-27/21-790-1036, calamari $9). 22. A taste of townships Residents of local townships Langa, Nyanga, and Guguletu lead four-hour tours that provide an up-close look at South Africa's massive underclass. Amid the overpopulated, tin-roofed, dirt-floored shacks are informal bars known as shebeens, where women stir pots of homemade grain beer that they serve while it's still steaming hot. Daring visitors are invited to pass around a communal metal bucket and sample the beer. Thuthuka Tours, 011-27/21-433-2429, half-day tour $38. 23. Alternative medicine Every township has a sangoma, or traditional healer, who treats ailments through a variety of herbs, powders, tinctures, and animal skins. Any township tour (see #22) will include a stop at his hut, typically a dim shack that's adorned with skins, critter skulls, and desiccated snakes hanging from the ceiling like the world's creepiest party streamers. Upon request, he'll even treat tourists' ills. 24. Swimming with sharks Great white sharks congregate in large numbers in nearby waters, which might help to explain how the odd sport of shark diving started here. The idea is pretty simple: You're inside a cage, surrounded by fish entrails and bloody water; the sharks take the bait and gnash at your cage. It's safe--as long as you keep your hands inside--but terrifying. The capital of shark diving is two hours east of Cape Town in Gansbaai, a town that's also known as Shark Alley. White Shark Diving runs full-day trips that keep you underwater for a short but ample 15 minutes, and they'll drive you back and forth from Cape Town. 011-27/21-532-0470, white-shark-diving.com, $182, includes breakfast and lunch. 25. A grape of the Cape Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault grapes, originated in South Africa. The best place to sample it is Stellenbosch, a 45-minute drive from Cape Town, where more than 100 vineyards blanket the countryside. Stellenbosch is South Africa's second-oldest town, and its beautiful whitewashed Cape Dutch homes are exactly as they've been for the last 300 years. Wine Enthusiast bestowed 89 points on the 1999 Pinotage from Warwick Estate, a Spanish-style hacienda surrounded by clementine groves (pictured). The winery offers free tastings of its Pinotage, along with its bordeaux, chardonnay, and sauvignon blanc. On R44, west of Stellenbosch, 011-27/21-884-4410, warwickwine.co.za.

Kykuit in Sleepy Hollow, N.Y. Built in 1913 by John D. Rockefeller, flush with Standard Oil's real-life Monopoly money. What you'll see With soaring views of the Hudson River Valley toward Manhattan, 25 miles to the South, Kykuit (pronounced kye-cut) is the hilltop centerpiece of Pocantico Hills, the 2,000-acre playground of the Rockefeller dynasty. The house itself is more architectural mishmash than streamlined marvel, with a neoclassical façade and romantic details on the interior. The real treasure is grandson Nelson's extensive modern art collection, including striking wool tapestries by Picasso, as well as important works by David Smith, Louise Nevelson, and Henry Moore, two of whose sculptures adorn formal gardens designed by William Welles Bosworth. Pssst! The books lining one wall of the study are fake. Nelson, vice president in the 1970s, wasn't much of a reader--he preferred to unwind by watching TV shows like All in the Family. Tip The three-hour Estate Life Tour ($34) adds an exploration of the nearby Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, John D. Rockefeller Jr.'s 80-acre preserve of woodlands and sustainable farming (and home to chef Dan Barber's expensive but splurgeworthy Blue Hill at Stone Barns restaurant). The Hudson Valley website has info on the estate as well as train and boat tickets from Manhattan. Info: 914/631-9491, hudsonvalley.org, $19. The Breakers in Newport, R.I. Built in 1895 by Cornelius Vanderbilt II, grandson of railroad tycoon Commodore Vanderbilt. What you'll see During the Gilded Age, Society summered in Newport, leaving behind several glorious mansions. The Breakers is considered the most magnificent, in part due to Cornelius' wife, Alice, trying to one-up her sister-in-law Alva's nearby Marble House. Family architect Richard Morris Hunt designed the 70-room palazzo after those found in 16th-century Genoa. Highlights include a 2,400-square-foot, two-story dining room in alabaster and gilded bronze, and the music room, constructed (furnishings and all) by artisans in Paris and reassembled on site. A behind-the-scenes tour, debuting in August, opens up the labyrinthine basement, among other areas. Pssst! Cornelius died only four years after construction was completed, following a stroke suffered while fighting with one of his sons over money. Tip The Gilded Age Experience ticket includes access to four other properties: The Elms, Marble House, Rosecliff, and Green Animals Topiary Garden ($31). Info: 401/847-1000, newportmansions.org, $15. Shangri La in Honolulu, Hawaii Built in 1938 by tobacco heiress and surfer girl Doris Duke. What you'll see Oahu's most elaborate Spanish Mediterranean-inspired structure is where Doris Duke, known then as "the richest girl in America," hid from her money-grubbing relatives, and amassed one of America's premier Islamic art collections. Throughout much of her turbulent life, Duke found solace studying the order and symmetry of Near Eastern design (and purchasing it, of course). Highlights among her 3,500 objects: a 13th-century Iranian mihrab, or prayer niche, and an entire wooden room, carved and painted in Syria in the mid-19th century. Pssst! At age 75, Duke adopted a 35-year-old Hare Krishna, Chandi Heffner. The two became estranged when Duke suspected Heffner of poisoning her food. Claiming a toothache, Duke said she was going to the dentist, but instead hopped her 737 to L.A. and had her staff boot Heffner from Shangri La. Tip Opened to the public in 2002, Shangri La is still a tough ticket--advance reservations are a must (the 8:30 a.m. tour is the easiest to book last minute). There's also an extensive one on the website. Info: Tours begin at the Honolulu Academy of Arts, 866/385-3849, shangrilahawaii.org, $25. Fair Lane in Dearborn, Mich. Built in 1915 by Auto baron, curmudgeon, and old-time dance enthusiast Henry Ford. What you'll see The 56-room, prairie style-cum-English Gothic mansion, designed by architect William Van Tine, reveals Ford's taste for rustic hominess with cypress, oak, and walnut walls and staircases. The controversial industrialist retreated here as assembly lines at nearby Highland Park churned off scores of Model Ts every hour, minting him millions. Ford felt most at home in spaces beyond the main house--particularly the Thomas Edison--designed powerhouse, which generated hydroelectric power from the Rouge River and made the property self-sufficient; and of course, the garage, which holds six of Ford's historic car models. Pssst! In his old age, Ford became increasingly eccentric. It's been said that he cultivated rust on old razors in his bathroom sink to use as a hair restorative. Tip The on-site restaurant, in the room that once housed the Fords' 50-foot lap pool, is only open weekdays for lunch. Several dishes include soybeans, a crop Ford was fanatic about. Info: 313/593-5590, henryfordestate.org, $10. Aiken-Rhett House in Charleston, S.C. Built in 1817 by John Robinson, a shipping merchant, who sold it to cotton tradesman William Aiken Sr. in 1827. What you'll see The prosperous Aikens clan kept the estate in the family for nearly 150 years. Over the decades, as the family's numbers dwindled, they sealed up rooms they no longer needed, beginning in 1898. Thus, much of the house remained untouched to this day: Faded paints, peeling wallpaper, worn carpets, and gaslight chandeliers all lend a time-capsule aura. Many of the original working outbuildings also survived--including slave quarters, a kitchen, and stables. Pssst! In the first-floor parlors, the spots of gray paint on the walls aren't the result of aging. They're a remnant from the filming of Swamp Thing, Wes Craven's 1982 horror flick, parts of which were shot in the house. Tip The $14 combo ticket also gets you into the nearby Nathaniel Russell House, a grand neoclassical building noted for its flying spiral staircase and elaborate plasterwork. And don't miss Charleston's sprawling Magnolia Cemetery, the final resting place of the Aikens, as well as many other grand families from the area. Info: 48 Elizabeth St., 843/723-1623, historiccharleston.org, $8. Winterthur in Wilmington, Del. Built in 1839 by Jacques and Evelina Bidermann (née du Pont). But the name worth knowing is that of her nephew's son, Henry Francis du Pont. He was born and raised in the house and inherited it when he came into the family's gunpowder fortune. What you'll see Once a modest Greek Revival structure, the house went through several revisions until Henry Francis, an avid gardener and collector of American decorative arts, doubled its size in the 1920s to make room for his collection of 63,000 objects and furnishings. The collection of American decorative arts, dating from 1640 to 1860, now totals 89,000 pieces in 175 period displays. It's so valuable that 26 employees are certified as firefighters. Pssst! Henry was neurotic about maintaining the furniture. In the 1930s, he hosted scores of weekend guests; those he considered careless got lesser-quality linens. And he often told them what couldn't be touched: One visitor was rumored to be so nervous, she slept in the bathtub to avoid disturbing anything. Tip Henry took his flowers seriously; he maintained a weekly list of the ones in the height of bloom at the estate, a practice the gardeners continue today (call 302/888-4856 for updates). The nearby Hagley Museum, site of the family's early gunpowder mill, provides an explanation of how the du Ponts could afford all that art (hagley.org). Info: 5105 Kennett Pike (Rte. 52), 800/448-3883, winterthur.org, $20. Biltmore Estate in Asheville, N.C. Built in 1895 by George Washington Vanderbilt II, grandson of railroad tycoon Commodore Vanderbilt (and Cornelius II's brother). What you'll see Lest he land in the shadow of his siblings' palaces in Newport and Manhattan, this Vanderbilt took his share of the family fortune south--and outdid them all. Architect Richard Morris Hunt designed the 250-room French Renaissance--style château, a confection of Indiana limestone that featured early electric lights, indoor plumbing, and water channeled from a reservoir five miles away. Frederick Law Olmsted sculpted 75 acres of gardens. The public has been welcome since 1930, but in July, several rooms--including an observatory--open for the first time. Pssst! Not all of Vanderbilt's guests left bowled over. A visiting Henry James once wrote that the château was "strange, colossal, heartbreaking...in effect, like a gorgeous practical joke." Tip Asheville's AAA branch (800/274-2621) offers members $5 off admission. And the website has discounts--as much as 30 percent off--on the property's Inn on Biltmore Estate (from $179). Info: 1 Approach Rd., off Highway 25, 800/624-1575, biltmore.com, $39. Monticello in Charlottesville, VA Built in 1769 by Founding Father Thomas Jefferson. What you'll see Jefferson made filling Monticello--"little mountain," roughly translated--his life project. Construction started in 1769 when he was 26 years old and ended when he was 66. It's the details that are most intriguing: Antlers in the entrance hall were a gift from Lewis and Clark; a bottle-sized dumbwaiter travels from the wine cellar to the dining room; a contraption copies letters as they're being written. Newly restored this year is the 1809 kitchen, an upgrade Jefferson started after returning from the White House. Pssst! Jefferson considered his affair with slave Sally Hemings part of a therapeutic regimen using sex, exercise, and vegetarianism, according to Jefferson's Secrets: Death and Desire at Monticello, by University of Tulsa professor Andrew Burstein. Tip The Presidents' Pass ($26) includes admission to Monticello, the 1784 Michie Tavern museum and restaurant, and Ash Lawn-Highland (President James Monroe's home). The pass is available at any of the museums or the local visitors center. Info: 931 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy., 434/984-9800, monticello.org, $14. Hearst Castle in San Simeon, Calif. Built in 1919 by Publishing magnate William Randolph Hearst, the real-life Citizen Kane. What you'll see The 165-room Mediterranean Revival palace was designed by architect Julia Morgan, and was a work in progress for 28 years. Its proud owner first brought in the world, shipping in European treasures such as Roman tapestries and a 400-year-old Italian carved wood ceiling. Then he brought in the stars, hosting Charlie Chaplin, Joan Crawford, and many others. Pssst! On certain summer nights, after the tourists go home, the estate's employees (and a few of their guests) are given access to swim in the marble-lined, 345,000-gallon Neptune pool. Tip The castle schedules evening tours in spring and fall--docents in period clothing act as though Hearst had invited them. For contrast, visit the nearby town of Cambria, home to the poor man's Hearst Castle. Nitt Witt Ridge, a 51-years-in-the-making hodgepodge of Busch beer cans and other discarded materials, was dreamed up by deceased eccentric Art Beal (805/927-2690). Info: 800/444-4445, hearstcastle.com, $24. Oak Alley Plantation in Vacherie, LA. Built in 1839 by J. T. Roman, a sugarcane planter and French Creole socialite, as a wedding gift to his bride, Celina Pilie. What you'll see Two rows of 300-year-old live oaks line the quarter-mile drive from the Mississippi River up to the colonnaded Greek Revival mansion. (You may recall the view from Primary Colors and Interview with the Vampire.) Inside, guides in period dress--hoopskirts, Confederate uniforms--lead a half-hour tour focusing on the Romans' day-to-day doings, their elegant parties, and the courting traditions of the era. Afterward, visitors are invited to purchase mint juleps and relax on the porch and grounds. Pssst! The romance between J.T. and Celina may have been less than steamy. Celina preferred to spend her time at parties in New Orleans, while J.T. stayed home at Oak Alley. He signed many letters, "Kiss the children for me. Your Friend, J.T. Roman." Tip Oak Alley has simple accommodations in the late-1800s outbuildings--no phones or TVs, but there are flashlights for late-night graveyard tours (from $115, with breakfast). Info: 800/442-5539, oakalleyplantation.com, $10. Five more mansions that you may not have heard about Some will recognize the Gamble House in Pasadena, Calif., as the domain of Doc in Back to the Future. But design junkies are far more impressed by the overall American Arts & Crafts style: stained glass, hand-finished oak, Burmese teak. The mansion was built in 1908 for David Gamble (of Procter & ...) by architects Greene & Greene (626/793-3334, gamblehouse.org, $8). In Natchez, Miss., a town rich with antebellum mansions, Longwood rises above, if only for its shape. It's the largest octagonal house in America--a fad in 1860, when it was designed by architect Samuel Sloan for cotton planter Haller Nutt (601/442-5193, $8). Confederate General William Giles Harding inherited his father's Belle Meade Plantation, in Nashville, and built a world-class 1853 Greek Revival mansion. After guided visits through the house, self-guided tours take in the slave quarters and storied stud farm stable (615/356-0501, bellemeadeplantation.com, $11). At Lyndhurst, a romantic 1838 Gothic Revival castle designed by Alexander Jackson Davis, pointed turrets tower over the Hudson River Valley. Three powerful New York families lived there in the 1800s. The most famous resident was railroad tycoon Jay Gould, who preferred to take his yacht from New York City to Tarrytown rather than board a train owned by his nemesis, Cornelius Vanderbilt I (914/631-4481, lyndhurst.org, $10). Captain Frederick Pabst, a steamship captain turned brewmaster, financed the Pabst Mansion in Milwaukee in 1892 with proceeds from his company, which at the time was the world's largest manufacturer of lager. The 37-room Flemish Renaissance mansion demonstrates his taste for the finer things--including custom-built Louis XV-style furniture and 19th-century European oil paintings (414/931-0808, pabstmansion.com, $8).