London: Sleep

November 7, 2005

BAYSWATER

Vancouver Studios 30 Prince's Sq., 20/7243-1270, vancouverstudios.co.uk
The large but simple rooms are self-contained apartments, with full kitchens and antique-style decor, but the real draw is the secluded, leafy garden out back--a fountain-filled oasis away from the bustle of the streets nearby. Friendly staff, doubles from £90.

BLOOMSBURY

Harlingford Hotel 61-63 Cartwright Gardens, 20/7387-1551, harlingfordhotel.com
Recently spruced-up budget hotel with a vaguely heraldic vibe (and even a roaring fire in the lounge). Bedrooms are smart but small, while the snazzy bathrooms boast brand-new, hyper-designed fixtures. Breakfast includes a full English fry-up. Doubles from £99.

BLOOMSBURY

The Jenkins Hotel 45 Cartwright Gardens, 20/7387-2067, jenkinshotel.demon.co.uk
Comfy, traditional B&B in a Georgian town house with a low-key, friendly vibe; large, if overly floral bedrooms; and an affable owner who'll happily help with tips on London. Doubles from £85.

CLERKENWELL

The Zetter Restaurant & Rooms 86-88 Clerkenwell Rd., 20/7324-4444, thezetter.com
London's trendiest hotel du jour, the Zetter was fashioned from a disused warehouse, so think minimalist, industrial chic in the smallish rooms. But it's smart touches, like vending machines dispensing gin and tonics in the corridors, that really count. Rooms from £158.

EARL'S COURT

Rushmore Hotel 11 Trebovir Rd., 20/7370-3839, rushmore-hotel.co.uk
Gorgeous, gloriously over the top, and like the boudoir of an Italian princess: Walls are covered with trompe l'oeil paintings, while beds are festooned with heavy drapes. Great fun and great value. Doubles from £79.

HYDE PARK

Pavilion Hotel 34-36 Sussex Gardens, 20/7262-0905, pavilionhoteluk.com
Release your inner rock star at this kitschy hotel. Rooms have different names and themes--try the Honky Tonk Afro (disco ball, heart-shaped headboards) or the Highland Fling (tartan, tartan, and more tartan). Doubles from £100.

MARYLEBONE

Sherlock Holmes Hotel 108 Baker St., 20/7486-6161, sherlockholmeshotel.com
Rooms look like a Savile Row tailor's pied-a-terre: pin-striped sheets, plenty of leather, and a neutral color scheme--Sherlock Holmes would be proud. The snazzy on-site bar is a great place for a drink or two. Doubles from £133.

SOUTH BANK

The Mad Hatter Hotel 3-7 Stamford St., 20/7401-9222, fullershotels.com
This no-fuss, homey spot close to the Tate Modern is owned by a brewery and pub chain. Rooms are large, if a little too reliant on chintz. Prices often drop on weekends. Doubles from £95.

SOUTH KENSINGTON

Hotel 167 167 Old Brompton Rd., 20/7373-0672, hotel167.com
Stashed in a Victorian town house, this artsy, offbeat hotel combines modern touches--black-and-white tiling, contemporary art--with ramshackle pine-and-wicker furniture for a Sloaney, boho vibe. Doubles from £99.

HOT GOSSIP

Forget Us Weekly and People: The real home of celebrity gossip is London. A raft of celeb-tastic weeklies documents the loves, lives, and misbehaviors of every B- and C-list star imaginable. Pick up a copy or two to learn about England's celebrity obsession.

Heat is the granddaddy of them all, with a mischievous sense of fun and a witty, ironic take on even the most sacrosanct movie stars--its "Celebrities Uncensored" section spotlights unflattering and revealing paparazzi shots.

With page after page of "at home with..." celebrity photo spreads, Hello! and OK! are like valentines to the stars they feature: adoring, uncritical, and soft-focused. Most Brits, though, read them for the unintentionally hilarious interviews.

Zoo and Nuts are both aimed at men--an unusual target for celeb weeklies. Soft-core photo shoots and sports coverage are standard fare.

As for Closer and Now, they're by far the trashiest options, usually packed with D-list TV stars and reality-show types.

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London: Essentials

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT Gatwick and Heathrow Express Trains Gatwick (LGW): 845/850-1530, gatwickexpress.com Heathrow (LHR): 845/600-1515, heathrowexpress.comThese two high-speed rail services connect the main airports with central London. Heathrow Express runs about every 15 minutes from 5 a.m. until 12 a.m. daily; £14 one way, £26 round trip; the journey lasts around 15 minutes and terminates at Paddington Station. Gatwick Express runs every 15 minutes or so from 5 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. daily; £12 one way, £23.50 round trip; the journey lasts half an hour and terminates at Victoria Station. London Underground 20/7222-1234, tfl.gov.uk At Heathrow, a slower but cheaper option is to hop on the London Underground's Piccadilly line. It costs £3.80 one way to get into central London. The downside is the duration (budget at least an hour for the journey) and current engineering works related to the construction of Heathrow's Terminal 5, which means that a free shuttle bus replaces the Tube at the line's final stop at Terminal 4. Bus 870/580-8080, nationalexpress.com National Express bus service runs from central London's Victoria Station to Heathrow, though it's not as handy as the express trains (see above). It leaves roughly every 30 minutes from 7 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily and costs £10 each way. GETTING AROUND Underground and Bus 20/7222-1234, tfl.gov.ukThe London Underground network comprises 12 lines; it runs from 5 a.m. until at least 12 a.m. The bus network runs 24 hours. London is divided into six zones; a one-way ticket within central London (Zones 1 and 2) costs £2.30. A one- or three-day Travelcard allows unlimited journeys after 9:30 a.m. on bus and Tube. One-day Travelcards cost £4.70, and the three-day version £15. Pick up Travelcards at any London Underground station. London Rail 20/7222-1234, tfl.gov.uk The overground rail network that connects London to the rest of England is also handy within the city limits, especially if you're exploring south of the river. Travelcards are also valid on these services within the same zones. Taxis 871/871-8710 The minimum fare for a ride in a black cab--a misnomer, since they're often wrapped in multicolored adverts--is £2.20; rates are then variable by mileage and speed, but expect a premium of 60p to £1 on nights and weekends. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN Free in Tube Stations   Metro newspaper, Mon.--Fri. At Newsstands   Time Out magazine, timeout.co.uk   MetroLife magazine, free with the Evening Standard newspaper every Thursday, thisislondon.co.uk   The Guide magazine, free with The Guardian newspaper every Saturday, guardian.co.uk TOURS The Original London Walks 20/7624-9255, walks.comExhaustive, wide-ranging selection of historical tours on foot. The Jack the Ripper walk is arguably the best known, but it's worth exploring some of the more esoteric options: Shakespearean actor Edward Petherbridge still leads occasional theatrical jaunts, for example. Price: £5.50. Original London Sightseeing Tour 20/8877-1722, theoriginaltour.com Traditional tour by bus--in a double-decker, no less--which hits all the city's major sights in 90 minutes or so. You can hop on and off at any point on the route; tickets are available at most hotels or London Transport offices. Price: £15. Silvercane Tours 772/071-5295, silvercanetours.com Simon Rodway is a qualified Blue Badge guide, with unbeatable historical knowledge; what sets him apart is his wit and the offbeat topics of his tours, which range from Bridget's Big Knickers Walk to the forgotten bohemian enclave of Fitzrovia. Price: £100 for private individual or group tours NUMBERS TO KNOW   Directory inquiries 118-500   Emergencies Police, fire, ambulance, 999   Theater See Tickets, 871/220-0260   Sports & concert tickets Ticketmaster, 870/534-4444   Tourist info 20/7234-5800   International access code 011   Country code 44   City code 20 All London phone numbers start with "7" (central) or "8" (outer neighborhoods). Add a "0" before numbers when dialing within the U.K.

Travel Blog Directory

Go to: General | Air Travel | Dispatches & ReflectionsPage 2: Food, gear & gadgets, hotels, mapsPage 3: News & deals, sports, and more Page 4: International destinations Page 5: U.S. cities and destinations GENERAL TRAVEL Boot Blog, bootblog.org; Travel blog for BootsnAll.com, a site dedicated to advice, stories, discussions, and networking for independent travelers. The main page has links to hundreds of other travel blogs. Cloud Travel, cloudtravel.typepad.com; Travel guide and tips. The Cool Hunter, thecoolhunter.net; Global trends in travel, gadgets, and design. Gridskipper, gridskipper.com; Helps travel sophisticates find discount flights and covers galleries, museums, and other happenings in cities around the world. Travel and Leisure, travelsonline.blogspot.com; Travel destinations ranging from the sophisticated to the unconventional. Travel Sapien, travelsapien.blogspot.com; News, gossip, and tips, from how to travel safely to where to find the best martinis. Travelpost.com, blog.travelpost.com; News, deals, tips, and destination ideas. AIR TRAVEL Airfare Watchdog, airfarewatchdog.com; Comes out with unadvertised fare reductions and other airfare sales for domestic and international travel. It also fields questions on air travel problems. Online Travel Review, onlinetravelreview.com; Former travel analyst looks at what's happening now in the airline industry. Today in the Sky, usatoday.com/travel/flights/today/sky.htm; USA Today reporter Ben Mutzabaugh posts airline news Monday-Friday, including travel specials. View From The Wing, blogs.flyertalk.com/blogs/viewwing; Gary Leff's dispatches on the airline and hotel industry, and analysis of its mile points and rewards programs. DISPATCHES & REFLECTIONS Andy Hobo Traveler.Com Travel Blog, hobotraveler.com/blogger.html; Reflections of an Internet travel writer as he wanders the world. Be Our Guest, gonomad.com/beourguest; Writer Kent St. John's thoughts on the trials and tribulations of domestic and international travel. Cross That Bridge, sonyss.blogspot.com/, Around-the-world travel adventures with Semester-At-Sea videographer Sony Stark. Expedition 360, expedition360.com/x360_indonesia_journal; Journal entries of one man who's circumnavigating the globe by human-powered means solo. Gadling, gadling.com; Missives for the "engaged" traveler, those who throw themselves into the travel experience with unusual or extreme expeditions. Gristmill, gristmill.grist.org; The blog for Seattle-based, nonprofit Grist Magazine delivers frank and spirited commentary on environmental issues. Journeys Near and Far, traveldreamsite.blogs.com; Travel stories, tips, and information from a woman traveling from Mumbai to Maine. Ribbons of Highway, ribbonsofhighway.blogspot.com; Around-the-world adventures with vagabond Lori Hein, who on any given can be found cruising the street markets in Bolivia or hiking in Katmandu. Road Weary, blog.holtz.com/index.php/roadweary; A business traveler gripes about life on the road and his less fortunate dealings with airlines and hotels. This Is Vlad, thisisvlad.com/werd; Ongoing trans-continental travel journal. Vlad is currently working his way through South America. Travel Blips, travelblips.blog-city.com; Travel adventures from a self-professed nomad who's exploring all seven continents. Travel Tips and Tales, smartweblog.com/travelwisdom; Inside travel information and secrets from a former flight attendant. Vagablog, blogs.washingtonpost.com/vagablog2; The Washington Post publishes posts from husband-and-wife team Meredith and Cindy Bragg, who are on a year-long sabbatical traveling around the U.S. Vagabonding,vagablogging.net; Ralf Potts' ruminations on what it means to be a world traveler. He offers an insider's view on travel destinations. World Hum, worldhum.com; Adventure travel dispatches from around the planet. Covers everything from surfing in hurricanes to biking in Holland. Ya Rayi Our Rai, mybookofrai.typepad.com/my_weblog; Global reflections on food, art, culture, travel, and more. Do you have a travel blog? Let us know! E-mail us at Letters@BudgetTravelOnline.com Page 2: Food, gear & gadgets, hotels, mapsPage 3: News & deals, sports, and more Page 4: International destinations Page 5: U.S. cities and destinations

Trip Coach: Nov. 1, 2005

Budget Travel Editors: Thanks for joining us. Let's get to your questions! _______________________ Layton, UT: Do you have suggestions for areas, cities in Spain to visit. I do not like beaches. This trip is for cultural, historical and family reasons. I have never been to Spain. I want to go there to see where my family came from. Is spring a good time to go? I would like to see the northeast, because I believe that is where my family came from (around Burgos). Budget Travel Editors: Burgos itself has a wealth of history, and especially if you're looking into the homeplace of your ancestors you'll want a full day to explore. Most likely you'll get started in Madrid, where you can get into the Spanish way of life with tapas in one of the older cave-like mesons around Plaza Mayor. You can visit the Palacio Real as well for a taste of royal life and luxury. Madrid has an absolute ton to explore, so if you'd like a bit more in depth knowledge about the different historical elements of the capital city, try a guided tour through the Tourism Office (descubremadrid.com). North of Madrid, on your way up to Burgos, Segovia is definitely worth a visit. Its most notable landmark, the Roman aqueduct, is largely believed to date back to the first century BC. The Alcázar in the old town is reputedly the inspiration for the castle at Disneyland (though it vies for this title against Neuschwanstein in Germany). The House Museum of Antonio Machado is also worth a visit if the early 20th century Spanish poet's life and work interests you. Moving further north you can also stop into Valladolid, a bustling university town now, it was at one point home to Cervantes, Spain's famed son who penned Don Quijote de la Mancha. On to Burgos, a city laid out around the Arlanzón River. It's easy to orient yourself in the city as the main cathedral is visible from most parts. I hope these suggestions get you started, but also look into spain.info for more in depth trip planning, and check out the podcasts on notesfromspain.com for historical and cultural insight into many different parts of the country. And as for your inquiry about spring travel, the capital city is mostly warm and sunny in April and May (temperatures in the 60s and not very rainy), but you can check temperatures in more detail on weather.com or wunderground.com. _______________________ Fairfax, Va: I am taking a cruise at the end of April 2006 out of San Diego. I have never been to San Diego and thought I may go early and spend 2 nights there before getting on the ship. Any suggestions for a nice hotel which would be close by the port but still convenient for seeing the city? Budget Travel Editors: A short walk from the Bay, the revitalized restaurant-heavy Gaslamp Quarter, and Little Italy, the W San Diego is a convenient jumping off point--if you're in the mood for an indulgent blow-out stay (with the $250+ nightly rates to match). The lobby doubles as a throbbing nightclub on weekend nights, there's an outdoor, tropical-themed bar dubbed the Beach for its sandy floor, plus a tiny pool with an open-air gym and a spa. For something more wallet-friendly, try the quaint Victorian Horton Grand Hotel, four-story European-style La Pensione, or the no-frills Comfort Inn, all reliable downtown options. _______________________ Glendale, CA: What is the time difference between Vietnam and California? Budget Travel Editors: There is a 15 hour time difference between California and Vietnam, (ie, when it is 8AM in California it is 11PM in Vietnam). The website timeanddate.com is a great, simple resource for figuring out time differences around the globe. Another great resource for making international phone calls across time zones is countrycallingcodes.com. _______________________ Weehawken, NJ: What is the best online website for discounts on Cruise vacations? Budget Travel Editors: By far one of the best websites for cruise deals is cruisecompete.com. Submit a ship name and sail date and travel agencies across the country will compete to offer you the best package for your vacation. You'll be contacted via email with a price quote for your trip, then simply contact the agency directly to book your cruise. There's no obligation to purchase a cruise once you're quoted a price, the service is totally free, and if you're flexible with your travel dates and itinerary, you'll get some of the best bargains around. _______________________ New York, NY: My boyfriend's job requirements mean we usually only have about a one week notice to plan a trip. We would love to get away to someplace warm that isn't only about sitting on a beach. I'd love to have some ideas in my back pocket for where to go and the best way to find last minute getawaways for the next time we have a week to plan an escape. Budget Travel Editors: The next time you're looking for ideas for a great last-minute vacation, be sure to check out Site 59 (site59.com). Named for the 59th minute, the website allows you to book up to three hours before takeoff and is packed with bargains. Search by destination (Europe, the Caribbean, South America), by lifestyle (sun & beach, food & wine, casino), or sign up for its Top Picks email where you'll receive notifications of its best deals right in your inbox. _______________________ Los Angeles, CA: Is there a resource to compare the pertinent measurements, ie leg room, # of rows? , etc , etc in the Coach cabins of different airlines?? In otherwords, does the consumer have a resource to see which airlines have the best legroom in Coach? Budget Travel Editors: Frequent Flyer's website has compiled seating charts for every airline: frequentflyer.oag.com/airlines_airports/seating.asp Leg room (or "seat pitch") can vary from plane to plane, but here's a chart from cheapflights.com cheapflights.com/travel-tips/legroom.html _______________________ San Miguel de Allende, Mexico: I remember reading something about searching for the best airfare on some sites (I think airline sites) and then not being able to find the lower fare later. But the recommendation was to do something...eliminate history?...go in to eliminate cookies? and then the lower fares would come up again. Can you please tell me something about this. It might have been a situation where a flight was already booked and someone was trying to find a better fare. Thanks. Budget Travel Editors: Your memory is correct. "Cookies" are small files that certain websites send to your computer while you are browsing their site. Each "cookie" is a record of your visit to that specific website, and includes information such as your login information, time of your visit, and any other information you give up willingly, like a password or e-mail address. The next time you visit that website, your computer "remembers" your preferences, password, and other information. It's similar to Caller ID for your telephone. Unfortunately, this saved information can also include the airfare prices you've previously searched on. Try eliminating cookies from your web browser if you get the same search results from a website. Here's how: If you're using Internet Explorer, go to "Tools" and then "Internet Options". Click on "Delete Cookies" and then click "OK". _______________________ Harwich, MA: Do I now need to have a passport to go to St. Maarten in Jan? Budget Travel Editors: Not yet. The U.S. government postponed the implementation dates of its plan to require all travelers (including U.S. citizens) within the Americas, Caribbean, and Bermuda, to have a passport to enter or re-enter the United States by one year. The Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative, as this plan is called, will now be put into effect December 31, 2006 for air and sea travel between Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda. The requirement will be extended to all land-border crossings on December 31, 2007. For updates and more information, go to the U.S. State Department website travel.state.gov. _______________________ Charlotte, NC: How do I find out if there are any travel restrictions to Turkey from the USA? Also, If a person wanted to visit the USA from Turkey, what requirements would have to be met? Budget Travel Editors: The best place to find out information on both topics is on the US State Department's website: travel.state.gov. The short answer is that U.S. citizens traveling to Turkey need a valid passport and visa. Tourists can buy a 90-day sticker visa at a port of entry to Turkey for $20 cash. For more information, contact the Turkish embassy at 202/612-6700 or check their website turkey.org. In general, the State Department posts travel warnings about specific countries; currently there are no travel warnings concerning Turkey. For more detailed information about individual countries, read the site's consular information sheets. To travel to the United States, Turkish citizens will need a non-immigrant visa. For specific details about the procedure (including application forms, fees and a mandatory interview) travelers should contact the closest US embassy or consulate to them (links to U.S. embassies and consulates around the world are also on the travel.state.gov website). _______________________ Rye Brook, NY: I have booked tickets on Iberia Airlines and now I am concerned. Many people I have mentioned the airline to say that it has the poorest safety record. True? Untrue? What do I do? Budget Travel Editors: Your instinct to doublecheck an airline's safety ranking before getting on board is the right one, but unfortunately safety rankings don't mean quite as much as we might hope. According to a recent study prepared for the FAA (Federal Aviation Administration): "While there may be apparent differences in carrier safety records at any particular time, due largely to the infrequent but catastrophic nature of an air accident, there is no evidence that such distinctions persist nor that they are predictive of future safety performance. Rankings of airlines based on past accident records therefore provide no information to consumers seeking to make safety-enhancing comparisons for current or future travel choices." That said, I'd like to ease your mind a bit: I just returned (under a week ago) from a trip to Spain and Portugal. I took a total of four Iberia flights, and apart from the shaky television monitors (I'm not sure why they weren't more securely fastened) it was smooth sailing. And, they give you free socks. _______________________ Menlo Park, CA: Why are so many hotel/resort prices quoted "per person" based on double occupancy? I'm single & don't understand why room cost depends on 2 users, not 1. I use less water/electricity/linens than 2 people would in a room, yet I have to pay a supplement. Please suggest sources for single cabin cruises or where i can book a 4 star resort without the penalty. And no, I don't want to be "matched" with potential roommates. Budget Travel Editors: It's annoying, but the hotel and resort business is based on making the maximum amount per room. If they rent a room for two people at $200 and one person at $100, they're effectively losing out on $100 (minus whatever small amount of water, electricity, towels, etc. the second person would use up during the stay). It's not really a penalty if you look at it from their perspective. During shoulder seasons -- fall or late spring in the Caribbean for example -- some resorts are desperate for rooms and will charge singles half the price of a double room. But they offers are rare. Try the Real Deals on our website, as well as sites such as travelzoo.com and smartertravel.com, but don't get your hopes up. _______________________ Roslyn, PA: i am flying on a "embraer jet" on USAIR.Do they have room for carry on luggage or does it have to be checked? We leave Nov.5th and fly from Phila to BWI Budget Travel Editors: Every commercial plane allows passengers to bring carry-on luggage. For the specifics of what's allowed and what's not on a given airline, call them up (800-371-4771) or visit their website. Here's a link to US Airway's baggage policy. _______________________ Ferndale, MI: Any advice for parents travelling with two older teenagers to Prague. We are looking for activities that will stimulate them with culture, yet not be too overwhelming that they will be bored. We are travelling from November 20th through the 28th of this year. Budget Travel Editors: Prague seems a natural choice for teen and child travelers: picture-perfect spires, towers and castles, a rich and tumultuous history, and foreboding winter weather suited to hearty meals and hot chocolate. As we wrote in a similar Trip Coach reply a few weeks ago, its Old Town Square is outfitted with a beautiful astronomical clock whose shuttered windows open to reveal figures that animate on the hour from 8 AM to 8 PM. At Prague Castle, be sure to stroll down adjacent Golden Lane, marked by brightly colored 15th century houses, some of which now showcase period armor and textiles. You can even learn to shoot a crossbow--it's heavier than you think. Next to the Old Jewish Cemetery, Ceremonial Hall depicts poignant sketches made by children at the Terezin concentration camp during World War II. For a more recent dose of history, you can scout out the Lennon Wall, a symbol of youthful resistance to Communism. Board a funicular for a ride up to Petrin Hill, topped by a mini replica of the Eiffel Tower. The park contains the Labyrinth, a mirror maze, and the Stefanik Observatory with a telescope for stargazing. _______________________ Budget Travel Editors: Thanks for all of your great questions. See you next week! _______________________