Los Angeles: Santa Monica & Venice

Contemporary architecture and large mall multiplexes define Wilshire Boulevard, a stretch of which is called Miracle Mile. The surrounding streets are filled with independent art galleries and retailers. SEE La Brea Tar Pits 5801 Wilshire Blvd., 323/934-7243, tarpits.org Active tar pits are an unexpected reminder of what was here long before tall buildings. The surrounding park is pleasant for strolls or picnics. There's also a small educational museum with fossils and woolly-mastodon skeletons. $7. SEE LACMA, Los Angeles County Museum of Art 5905 Wilshire Blvd. 323/857-6000, lacma.org The must-see of museum row has old masters and new rebels, with a regular slate of exciting installations. The best time to go is Friday evenings for the jazz series. Closed Wed. $9, free for kids under 18, and for all visitors after 5 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. EAT Flora Kitchen at Rita Flora 468 S. La Brea Ave., 323/931-9900, florakitchen.com A hit with the health-conscious and gourmets alike. Fresh food, mainly hearty sandwiches and salads, is the focus of this flower shop turned restaurant. Most dishes are made with organic ingredients. Start with the Flora Italia--mozzarella on a baguette or olive bread slathered with olive tapenade--and finish things off with an amazing traditional chocolate chip cookie. The dining room is full of beautiful blooms. EAT Mäni's Bakery 519 S. Fairfax Ave., 323/938-8800, manisbakery.com Casual café with outdoor seating that's great for pancakes or burgers any time of day. The fresh breads and homemade desserts are all made with organic whole grains. Most meat dishes can be made with tofu instead, and there are even vegan and sugar-free desserts. The multigrain pancakes are superb, and the gazpacho packs zing. SPLURGE Locanda Veneta 8638 W. 3rd St., 310/274-1893, locandaveneta.com Upscale Italian in understated surroundings. The New York-- style close-quartered seating allows for literal elbow-rubbing with the celebrity clientele (including Dustin Hoffman). You can't go wrong with the fresh pastas and rich sauces, but the daily specials are always a good bet too, with surprises such as pastry-wrapped halibut and spinach-and-ricotta gnocchi. Anything the sage butter sauce touches is a must. DRINK Lola's 945 N. Fairfax Ave., 213/736-5652, lolasla.com Classy and sassy martinis rule at this romantic nightspot; some 60 variations are on the menu. The chocolate mint is sweet and refreshing, and the pumpkin tastes like Thanks- giving in a glass. A fashionable yet mellow crowd. SHOP The Grove 189 The Grove Dr., 323/900-8080, thegrovela.com Shops at the grandiose outdoor mall range from the large Nordstrom department store to little carts selling imitation designer bags and jewelry. There's also a movie theater and a handful of restaurants. SHOP Paul Frank 8101 W. 3rd St., 323/653-6471, paulfrank.com Cool graphic-art T-shirts and accessories for men, women, kids, and babies. The artist's lovable cartoon characters--Julius the monkey, Skurvy the dead pirate, and a new line of Warhol-inspired friends--appear on everything from handbags to housewares. SHOP The Way We Wore 334 S. La Brea Ave., 323/937-0878, thewaywewore.com Hipsters and fashion mavens agree that this is the best vintage collection in L.A. The couture shop upstairs is the place to pick up gowns worn by movie stars past. The store also sells shoes, hats, and antique costume jewelry. SPLURGE Room Service 5901 W. 3rd St., 323/692-9221, roomservice-la.com A housewares dreamland that can give even the most decor-challenged a touch of cool. Large silk-screened canvases adorn the walls, chic minimalist couches conjure martinis and jazz, and the groovy cups and plates are perfect for parties. The staff stays out of the way and lets customers test the repro-Eames furniture. PLAY The El Rey Theatre 5515 Wilshire Blvd., 323/936-6400, theelrey.com An art deco performance space that hosts up-and-coming bands, and also provides a venue for big names like Beck to do surprise concerts. Grand winding staircases, chandeliers, and plush velvet decor make for an interesting spot to catch a favorite act or learn about a new one. Purchase tickets online. From $10. TIP Earthquakes If an earthquake hits while you're inside, protect yourself under a heavy table or stand in a door frame, away from windows and anything that can break or topple over. Outdoors, stay away from trees, buildings, and electrical lines. For more info: lafd.org

When calculating the cost of a trip, don't forget to factor in L.A.'s hefty taxes: 14 percent per room per night on all hotel stays and an 8.25 percent sales tax on food, clothing, and other merchandise. BEVERLY HILLS Beverly Terrace 469 N. Doheny Dr., 310/274-8141, hotelbeverlyterrace.com Quaint tropical retreat with an upscale veneer but a laid-back vibe. Not far from Rodeo and Sunset. Rooms are decorated with Asian and retro influences--straw window blinds, palms, and fresh-cut bamboo stems for luck. The casual, compact swimming pool and garden lounge area often erupts into what feels like a backyard party. From $99, includes continental breakfast and parking. BEVERLY HILLS The Crescent 403 N. Crescent Dr., 310/247-0505, crescentbh.com A no-frills boutique hotel that's surprisingly comfortable. The black-and-white rooms are quiet havens. An entertainment center has CDs and DVDs, and there's an indoor/outdoor fireplace in the lobby lounge. From $165. DOWNTOWN Millennium Biltmore Hotel Los Angeles 506 S. Grand Ave., 213/624-1011, millenniumhotels.com Historic and grand, the 1923 monument makes visitors feel like royalty. Once home to a few Academy Awards ceremonies, this Italian-inspired beauty has towering columns, and frescoes on the ceiling. Guest rooms feature gold and ivory tones and classic furniture. Some have marble bathrooms. From $150. HOLLYWOOD The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel 7000 Hollywood Blvd., 800/950-7667, hollywoodroosevelt.com Said to be haunted by ghosts of Hollywood past. Recent renovations have preserved its Spain-meets--Old Hollywood exterior, and chocolate-brown rooms have been freshened with modern decor. The poolside lounge, Tropicana Bar, is one of the hottest spots in town (see p. 6). From $139. LA BREA / MIRACLE MILE Farmer's Daughter Hotel 115 S. Fairfax Ave., 323/937-3930, farmersdaughterhotel.com The ultranice staff members take pride in their work, and it shows. Country charm fuses with a playful decor that gives a nod to the neighborhood farmer's market. Murals of waving wheat line the walls, and vintage lattice furniture is upholstered in gingham and denim. Formerly a cheap spot for Hollywood hopefuls to get their footing (including Charlize Theron when she first moved to L.A.). From $129. MANHATTAN BEACH Belamar Hotel 3501 N. Sepulveda Blvd., 310/750-0300, thebelamar.com Just a few blocks' walk to downtown Manhattan Beach. Rooms have sumptuous beds with down comforters, as well as flat-screen TVs. Accents include silly portraits of Chihuahuas. The hotel's bar and performance venue, Vibe, features live music most evenings. From $149. WEST HOLLYWOOD The Grafton on Sunset 8462 W. Sunset Blvd., 323/654-4600, graftononsunset.com All of the rooms use feng shui principles and feature ergo-nomic furniture, but the plush, themed suites on the fourth floor are the most fun--options include a cutesy starlet's pad, a Rat Pack hangout, and a graffiti artist's playground. A Medi-terranean courtyard and elegant swimming pool complete the eclectic picture. The hotel provides a free shuttle (a green PT Cruiser) to bars and restaurants within a three-mile radius. From $169. SPLURGE Avalon Hotel 9400 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310/277-5221, avalonbeverlyhills.com The modern, tropically decorated rooms have funky bamboo accents, designer linens and bathrobes, and CD players. In-room spa treatments and 24-hour room service assure guests a true Beverly Hills experience. The balconies and Blue on Blue, the popular poolside restaurant with cabanas, are good for people-watching. From $239. SPLURGE Maison 140 140 Lasky Dr., Beverly Hills, 310/281-4000, maison140beverlyhills.com Looks like a small historic Parisian hotel from the outside. Inside, guests are greeted by chic modern decor, but the ambience isn't cold; it feels like a private Beverly Hills home. Fine Asian reproduction furniture in vibrant colors and abstract art add flair to the 43 rooms. From $189. AREA CODES DECODED In a city infamous for sprawl, it's no surprise that area codes have struggled to keep up. On August 26, 2006, 424 will join L.A.'s three main area codes, and some rules will change. Those in the 310 and 424 regions will need to dial 1, then the area code and the seven-digit phone number, when making all calls. Local and long distance rates will remain the same.   213: Downtown, Financial District, Chinatown, Echo Park, Westlake, Koreatown.   323: Encircles the 213 area, covering most of Hollywood, Huntington Park, and parts of Beverly Hills, Pasadena, and West Hollywood.   310: Coastal areas to the northwest, west, and southwest of the city center, such as Santa Monica, Malibu, and Venice.   424: New phone numbers in the 310 region issued as of August 26, 2006.

TO/ FROM THE AIRPORT Prime Time Shuttle 310/536-7922, primetimeshuttle.com Reliable transportation serving all L.A.-area airports. Sedans, private vans, and luxury cars are all available, but the best choice for the money is a shared van. Prices depend on where you're headed. A shared van that makes drop-offs at any location, provided others are traveling to the same neighborhood, is around $15 per person; a shared sedan for up to three people going to midcity runs around $57. SPLURGE Beverly Hills Rent-A-Car At LAX and all over L.A., 800/479-5996, bhrentacar.com Cruise Rodeo Drive in style or arrive at the hotel like a celebrity in a Lamborghini, Rolls-Royce, or '59 Cadillac convertible. There's even a selection of the latest hybrid models to help save the environment and gas money. From $55/day for a premium model Toyota to $3,995/day for the Rolls. GETTING AROUND Metro Transportation Authority Buses 800/266-6883, mta.net Even though public buses can be crowded and slow, they're a good option if you don't have your own set of wheels, and they run on schedule. Exact change only; tickets also available at Ralphs and Pavilions supermarkets. Purchase day passes from the bus driver. All buses are equipped for bicycles. Check website for routes and schedules. $1.25/ride, $3 for a day pass. City of Los Angeles Taxi Services taxicabsla.org Because L.A. is so spread out, taxis aren't always easy to find, except in prime travel areas like LAX, Downtown, and some of the more popular bar/restaurant neighborhoods, such as the Sunset Strip. Don't get in a cab unless the City of Los Angeles Dept. of Transportation seal is visible on the exterior. These are the only cabs regulated by the city, and anything else is risky. Yellow Cab (310/808-1000) is a safe choice. Major credit cards accepted for rides over $10. Initial fare $2.20, each additional mile $2.20; flat fare for travel between LAX and Downtown $38. ScooterBiz Corner of Venice Blvd. and Ocean Front Walk, 310/450-0669 Rents bikes in Venice Beach for use on, or around, the famed boardwalk. Helmets and locks are not included in the price of rentals, so bring your own. $5/hour, $10 for the day. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN LA Weekly (laweekly.com) for arts and entertainment around town, extensive listings. At most newsstands and in some coffee shops, stores, and restaurants. Free Los Angeles Times (latimes.com) for city and national news, 50¢ Mon.--Sat., $1.50 Sun. Los Angeles magazine (lamag.com) for events, local issues, restaurant reviews, $3.95 TOURS Sony Pictures Studios Tour 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 323/520-8687, sonypicturesstudios.com/tourssection/tours.html Two-hour walking tours of classic soundstages, including The Wizard of Oz and Wheel of Fortune. The rich coverage touches on scene production, props, and the studio's golden days. Reservations recommended. Four tours daily, 9:30 a.m.-- 2:30 p.m., Mon.--Fri. No children under 12. $25, includes parking. Beverly Hills Trolley Tours N. Rodeo Dr. at Dayton Way, 310/285-2438, beverlyhills.org A whirlwind fantasy drive that blends art and architecture with celebrity gossip and glimpses of Rodeo's expensive clothiers. The 40-minute tours also pass art galleries, the Museum of Television and Radio, and the William Morris Agency (whose clients include many of Hollywood's A-list actors). Buy tickets from the trolley guide; space is on a first-come, first-served basis. 11 a.m.--4 p.m., Tues.--Sat., early May through late Dec. Tours depart on the hour, weather permitting. $5, kids $1. Red Line Tours 6773 Hollywood Blvd., 323/402-1074, redlinetours.com Huge variety of senior- and family-friendly walking tours of behind-the-scenes Hollywood and Downtown. Also offers bus drive-bys of stars' homes. Each tour has a different running time and schedule. Check the website or call ahead for specifics. Reservations recommended, especially during school vacations. Walking tours: from $20, kids from $15. Bus tours: from $62, kids from $48. Los Angeles Conservancy Tours 523 W. 6th St. Suite 826, 213/623-2489, laconservancy.org Enthusiastic docents share hidden histories and facts about L.A. architecture. Each two-and-a-half-hour walking tour (departing Saturdays at 10 a.m.) is sprinkled with interesting tidbits, such as rumored hauntings, neighborhood gossip, and protests over renovations. Offerings include Downtown's Art Deco tour and a visit to the industrial port of San Pedro. Reservations required. $10. NUMBERS TO KNOW Information 411   Emergency Police, fire, ambulance 911 Metro Transportation 800/266-6883 Consortium of taxi services 310/808-1000 Sports & concert tickets Ticketmaster, 213/480-3232, ticketmaster.com

Reno, Nevada The Biggest Little City in the World is all about kitsch, which reaches its apotheosis at the Peppermill Hotel Casino. Video poker and slot machines compete for your attention with endless mirrors and neon lights in every imaginable color. Walk into the Fish Bar, where tiki cocktails such as a Blue Hawaiian ($5.50) come surrounded by tropical fish aquariums lining the walls (2707 S. Virginia St., 866/821-9996). At William F. Harrah's antique car collection in the National Automobile Museum, hundreds of vehicles are displayed in vignettes, like a powder blue 1954 Buick Skylark getting a tune-up at a Union 76 station (10 S. Lake St., 775/333-9300, $9). Wind down with a Prom Queen cocktail--made with citrus vodka, rum, and cranberry, pineapple, and lime juices--at the retro lounge Satellite (188 California Ave., 775/786-3536, $6). The Green Room regularly hosts cabaret performances in the back of the bar (144 West St., 775/324-1224, cover $5). If you get kitsched out, the Siena Hotel Spa Casino is more of a boutique hotel (1 S. Lake St., 877/743-6233, sienareno.com, from $100), and Reno has plenty of good restaurants. The daily specials at The Cheese Board include salmon salad with pancetta, blood oranges, and pecans (247 California Ave., 775/323-3115, $10.75). Exposed brick walls help create a country French atmosphere at Beaujolais Bistro, where the duck breast is made with Calvados and apples (130 West St., 775/323-2227, $26). And decadence reigns at the Chocolate Bar; scenes from the original Willy Wonka movie play on miniscreens embedded in the bar, distracting only slightly from the creamy cocoa amaretto martinis (475 S. Arlington Ave., 775/337-1122, martini $8). Palm Springs, California Lounging by a pool in the desert heat with a cocktail in your hand, it's easy to imagine you're back in the Old Hollywood heyday of Palm Springs--especially at one of the city's newly restored hotels with modernist designs from the '50s. Hotel Zoso is the most recent addition to the retro-chic wave; after a multimillion dollar renovation of the 1984-era Marquis, Zoso now contains rooms with plasma-screen TVs and Herman Miller's Aeron chairs. At the poolside bar, a quartzite fire pit heats up chilly evenings (150 S. Indian Canyon Dr., 760/325-9676, rooms from $139). You don't have to pay the $300 price tag for a room at the Parker Palm Springs to sip a fruit-infused vodka martini by the fireplace in the Jonathan Adler--designed lobby (4200 E. Palm Canyon Dr., 760/770-5000, martini $15). One of Palm Springs's most famous modernists, Albert Frey, designed the Tramway Gas Station at the north end of Palm Springs; it now houses the Palm Springs Visitors Center (2901 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 760/778-8418), where you can pick up "A Map of Palm Springs Modern" ($5), listing other midcentury architectural landmarks--or, if you'd rather stare at Liberace's house, a $5 map of 64 celebrity homes. Frey also designed the building that now showcases Trina Turk's swimwear and outerwear lines (891 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 760/416-2856). When you get hungry, stop in at Cary Grant's former estate. It's now a restaurant called Copley's on Palm Canyon. On the stone patio, enjoy the charred prawns and scallops with corn puree and shitake mushroom dressing (621 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 760/327-9555, $14). Memphis, Tennessee Home to Elvis and Sun Studio--where Johnny Cash and B.B. King recorded--Memphis sure knows the value of history. Arcade Restaurant is the oldest café in town. You might recognize its turquoise vinyl booths from one of a dozen films that were shot there, including 21 Grams (540 S. Main St., 901/526-5757). The intersection of Cooper Street and Young Avenue forms the nexus of an area called, appropriately enough, the Cooper-Young District. It's filled with consignment shops, art galleries, restaurants, and antiques stores. Flashback has vintage furniture and clothing (2304 Central Ave., 901/272-2304). On weekends, live music and Pabst Blue Ribbon get double billing at HiTone Café, a venue where Cat Power and Elvis (Costello, that is) have both played (1913 Poplar Ave., 901/278-8663). The former Atkins Beauty Salon, also in Cooper-Young, is now Beauty Shop restaurant. Beehive-wigged waitresses in diner-style uniforms serve international twists on Americana dishes--like ahi tuna pizettes (966 S. Cooper St., 901/272-7111, $10). Sun Studio is still a working studio behind a brick facade in downtown Memphis; on the 40-minute tour, you can listen to master recordings, stand on the masking-tape X where Elvis stood to record his first song, and touch that original microphone (706 Union Ave., 800/441-6249, $9.50). No visit is complete without a tour of the King's remarkably modest castle, declared a National Historic Landmark in March. Lisa Marie's audio recording accompanies you on a tour past the Jungle Room (with a shag-carpeted ceiling) to the raquetball building, where Elvis's rhinestone-studded leather jumpsuits are on display in a glass case. The dozen-plus cars Elvis owned are parked across the street in the Automobile Museum. Also displayed there are Elvis's two planes, including the Lisa Marie jet with its gold-plated seat and belt buckles. All of the buildings have separate entrance fees, but all are fantastic and worthy in their own ways (3734 Elvis Presley Blvd., 800/238-2000, elvis.com, Graceland tours $22; Automobile Museum $12; jets $8). At Heartbreak Hotel, the pool is in the shape of a heart, and channel 17 broadcasts Elvis movies 24 hours a day (3677 Elvis Presley Blvd., 877/777-0606, elvis.com, from $99).