Meet Your New Favorite Beach Town: Montauk, N.Y.

By Sarah Bernard
August 2, 2011
surfers at Ditch Plains
Anna Wolf
Surfers, artists, and adventurous types have made Montauk their summer mainstay for decades. Now it's your turn to fall in love.

Sian Gordon's yoga studio, Love. A Yoga Space, is not your average meditation spot (yoga classes from $18). To start with, there's a 10-foot-tall graffiti mural by Yale art student Carlos Enrique Martinez covering one wall while the floor is painted bright turquoise. The color is meant to evoke the Caribbean Sea, and its visual impact is undeniable—even under all the suntanned surfers, young mothers, and surprisingly flexible older men in their ashtanga, Iyengar, vinyasa, and anusara classes. "We wanted something alive and bright that made you feel awake," says Gordon, on why she decided to give the traditionally sedate yoga studio a good jolt. "Every yoga studio I'd ever been in made me feel sleepy."

See photos of Montauk's Main Street and beaches.

Funny, that's what people used to say about Gordon's adopted hometown: Montauk. The 17-square-mile spit of land bordered by Block Island Sound and the Atlantic Ocean seems designed to weed out the uncommitted. It's the eastern-most point of New York State, a wild bit of nature beyond 110 miles of New York City suburbs and tony Long Island summer communities, a journey that can take as long as four hours by car on peak summer weekends. "Everyone who comes out to Montauk has to slog through the traffic. They have to earn it," says Jeff Schwarz, Gordon's partner in the yoga business and the chef at the newly revamped Crow's Nest restaurant (4 Old West Lake Dr., 631/668-2077, lemon pasta $19). "But that moment when you see the ocean for the first time, you feel like you've been set free." Like his yoga space, Montauk has been going through something of a personality transplant. In the past few years, half a dozen high-profile projects have sprouted up in this former fishing village, the last holdout among the ritzy, citified beach towns of eastern Long Island. The buzziest—and perhaps most divisive—is the Surf Lodge, a Southern California- and Hawaii-themed hotel designed by Robert McKinley, with its sunken living room, basket chairs, continuous loop of surf films on a projector screen, and see-and-be-seen Sunday afternoon parties. Ruschmeyer's, a second McKinley hotel (and hotspot-in-the-making), opened here just last month.

What distinguishes Montauk from so many gentrification-by-the-sea stories is the relative seamlessness of the transition. Sure, some of the old-timers complain that the flashy new neighbors are changing the place by the minute. (And don't get them started on the flood of high-heeled day-trippers!) The influx of cash has prompted some older businesses, such as the waterfront East Deck motel and the Montauket hotel, a beloved 1950s fishing lodge and bar, to put themselves on the block. But most folks say that the changes are working with the area's assets, not against them. "Montauk was always this hidden gem," says Marcia "Mars" Ostarello, a Montauk summer resident who opened the fuchsia Montaco food truck last July, where she serves fresh fish tacos on blue corn tortillas to surfers (and those who watch them) at Ditch Plains Beach. "But there weren't a lot of things to do at night. You'd just go to a friend's place to have a barbecue. It's new to think, Let's make a dinner reservation."

One reason most Montaukers haven't gotten their board shorts in a twist is that their town has been here before and survived. In the precrash 1920s, the rich and famous flocked to the Tudor-style Montauk Manor resort, built by Carl Fisher, the visionary developer responsible for Miami Beach. Then, when Andy Warhol bought a compound in the '70s, friends including Lee Radziwill and Jackie Kennedy came out and made headlines. So what if today Mike D. from the Beastie Boys is standing in line at Ostarello's taco truck? "I'd rather see Montauk fixed up than run down," says Catherine Foley, co-owner with her husband, Stuart, of the surf shop Air and Speed. "We just appreciate and enjoy all the different people who are coming out now. New people bring new interests and enthusiasm."

It also helps that Montauk has some inherent buffers against runaway growth. Of the town's 17 square miles, roughly 40 percent is state or county parkland, which can't be developed. That means most new development hinges on renovation rather than construction—leaving all the more room for travelers to take advantage of deep-sea fishing, horseback riding, stand-up paddle-boarding, and picnics on the miles of broad, sandy beaches backed by rocky cliffs. There's also something of a go-with-the-flow vibe to the town. The Foleys are a prime example. Stuart moved here when he was 18 and ran commercial-fishing boats for 25 years, including a five-year period when he and Catherine operated both the fishing business and the surf shop. As the balance of industry in town has shifted from a primarily fishing-based economy toward tourism (with a strong surfing slant), so have the Foleys. Last year, they even launched their own surf-themed apparel line, also called Air and Speed. Of course, change does bring trade-offs to a place whose charm was always derived from its tight-knit, working-class community and its sleepy pace. Catherine remembers taking a photo of her son Michael, now 27, at Ditch Plains Beach more than two decades ago. "There he was in his little board shorts, and no one was behind him! That would never, ever be the case at Ditch now," she says. "There would be a hundred people in the background."

A crowded beach is one thing; crowded restaurants are another—and all the better for swapping opinions with strangers about who makes the village's best lobster roll, the unofficial signature sandwich of Montauk. On any summer afternoon, East End lifers, seasonal residents, and tourists alike sit elbow to elbow on the patio of the Westlake Clam & Chowder House in the Westlake marina, a happy coexistence made possible by the harmonizing powers of just-caught seafood and sunny, open-air dining (352 West Lake Dr., 631/668-6252, one dozen clams $13). A similar camaraderie is common at Inlet Seafood, a split-level dockside restaurant that Foley opened in 2006 with five other commercial fisherman (sushi from $6). There, the catch of the day is grilled, fried, sautéed, or carved into sushi just a few feet from where it was hauled out of the boat. And even the newly arrived big-city chefs quickly learn that the best burger in town is at the Shagwong Restaurant, a family-run watering hole that's been a mainstay on Main Street since 1927 (burger from $15).

The new-wave culinary love goes both ways: At Schwarz's gig running the Crow's Nest's new kitchen, he brings mealtime variety to a community that's subsisted on fresh but fairly standard fare for years with his "Montauk-meets-Mediterranean" menu of North African-inspired meze, organic chicken kebabs, and lemon pasta. His partner in that venture is Sean MacPherson (of the Bowery Hotel and Ye Waverly Inn in New York City), who renovated the Crow's Nest's 14 guest rooms, all of which overlook Lake Montauk and make their public debut this summer. Another reimagined motor lodge nearby is the 26-room Solé East Beach motel, complete with vintage bathroom fixtures, flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi, and retro, lime-green doors (double rooms from $169). Guests can rent cruiser bikes, an essential amenity in a town that requires parking permits for all beach lots (which cost a whopping $375 annually for nonresidents). They can also take full advantage of the swimming pool, gardens, and beach-volleyball court at the hotel's pricier sister property, Solé East Resort, one mile away. "I see it all as a positive," says Perry Duryea III, who heads up one of Montauk's oldest commercial fishing businesses and the restaurant Duryea's Lobster Deck (lobster roll from $20). "We are kind of the end of the line. People see Montauk as the next frontier—perhaps, the last frontier.



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13 Best Places in the U.S. for Wildlife Viewing

As many of our patriotic songs point out, the United States is home to a wide variety of natural habitats—from purple mountains to fruited plains and redwood forests, all tucked in between a couple of shining seas. Thanks to this diversity, it’s also home to a dazzling array of wildlife, many of which have found refuge in our protected national parks. Every year, close to 70 million visitors head out into the parks to revel in the scenery and try to get the perfect photos of a sleepy-eyed alligator, majestic bison, or even a mama grizzly. Here are our top animals to spot—on land, in the air, and in water—along with tips on how to best capture the moment on film. See the animals in the parks. COYOTES: ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, Colorado The misunderstood coyote finds safe haven in these high-altitude Colorado meadows Talk about a bad rep: Smart, resourceful, and adaptable, these wild canines have historically been the target of farmers and ranchers who view them as a threat to livestock. The campaign hasn't really worked, though, since the coyote continues to thrive in both urban and wilderness areas, especially this peak-filled park about an hour north of Boulder. Coyotes are roughly the size of dogs, so you may be tempted to get up close. Don't. Rangers have been forced to kill coyotes that have displayed threatening behavior after taking food from humans. THE PERFECT SPOT: Though they can be spotted throughout the park, coyotes appear to prefer open meadows and pine woodlands. The aptly named Coyote Valley Trail—an easy, handicap-accessible one-mile loop along the Colorado River in Kawuneeche Valley—is a particularly rewarding spot to search for these wily animals. THE PHOTO TIP: While active throughout the day, coyotes are best spotted here early in the morning or around sunset—the perfect lighting for flash-free photography.   ELEPHANT SEALS: CHANNEL ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK, California The largest colonies of elephant seals gather off the coast of California The northern elephant seal is one of four types of pinnipeds (or "fin-footed" mammals) commonly found in Southern California—others include harbor seals, northern fur seals, and California sea lions. The five isolated islands that make up this national park are home to one of the largest gatherings of these mammals on the planet, with over 50,000 northern elephant seals alone breeding here each year. These unique animals get their name from the long, almosttrunk-like protrusions on males’ faces that are used to make a low, rumbling sound during mating rituals. THE PERFECT SPOT: You can find northern elephant seals on many beaches on Santa Rosa and San Miguel Islands, but the real seal mother lode requires a little extra work. Hiking to Point Bennett on the western tip of San Miguel Island is intense (it's a 15 mile round-trip hike trek), but well worth it. As you come over the Point's rise about halfway through, you'll spot thousands of honking elephant seals camped out on the beach. THE PHOTO TIP: To avoid the glare that can occur when shooting around reflective surfaces like water—or the seals’ glistening, wet bodies—don’t use a flash directly on those areas. Try focusing on a darker part of the scene to prevent overexposure.   FRENCH ANGELFISH: VIRGIN ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK, St. John, Virgin Islands Stunning, multi-colored French angelfish often swim in pairs along the park's shallow reef trails With its striking gold-scale-flecked black body, white chin, bright yellow iris, and blue face, the French angelfish stands out in a crowd. Native to the western Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico, and Caribbean, the fish tend to hang out in pairs, usually around shallow reefs. They are among the more common residents of the Virgin Islands National Park waters, along with barracuda, blue tangs, butterflyfish, and Nassau grouper. THE PERFECT SPOT: Virgin Islands National Park is home to some of the world's first underwater sign-marked snorkel trails, many of which are fairly shallow and ideal for beginners. For example, the self-guided trail in Trunk Bay, on the northwest shore of St. John, is in protected waters 15 feet deep or less, and is an ideal place to begin your search for the angelfish. THE PHOTO TIP: Obviously, tip one for snorkeling photography is to use an underwater camera or protective covering. Once you've got the right equipment, snag a good shot by getting as close as possible to your fishy subject without using a zoom; this ensures you'll best capture the fish's colors and avoid lots of blue water rings. In addition, using a flash tends to illuminate any particles in the water, creating unwanted spots on the image.   BLACK BEARS: GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK, Tennessee and North Carolina Spot American Black Bears in the largest protected habitat in the eastern U.S. Straddling the border between Tennessee and North Carolina, this massive, mountain- and forest-filled national park houses the largest protected American black bear habitat in the eastern U.S. As a result, the furry mammals—which are a bit smaller and more tolerant of humans than their grizzly cousins— are the official symbol of the park. It's estimated that about 1,500 bears currently live here; that comes out to about two bears per square mile. THE PERFECT SPOT: Black bears wander about all day long, especially in or around the edges of forests. Many hang out around the Cades Cove area, an easily accessible valley surrounded by an 11-mile loop road. THE PHOTO TIP: Note that it's illegal to willfully approach within 150 feet, or any distance that disturbs or displaces a bear, and that violation of this federal regulation can result in fines or arrest. Bring along a telephoto lens and a tripod. Without something to steady your camera, any small movement will create a blur when shooting at such long distances.   ALLIGATORS AND CROCODILES: EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK, FloridaThe only area in the world where alligators and crocodiles coexist side-by-side The subtropical wetlands that make up Florida’s Everglades National Park are the only environment in the world where 'gators and crocs live together in harmony, so you’ll need to learn how to tell them apart. Check the face: The alligator has a broad snout, the crocodile a narrow one. And if you can see the large fourth tooth on the bottom when the jaw is closed, you’re looking at a crocodile. THE PERFECT SPOT: The best places to spy sunning alligators, particularly in the winter, are along the Anhinga Trail in the Royal Palm section of the park and along the Shark Valley loop off the Tamiami Trail. Plenty of crocodiles hang out in the saltwater of the Flamingo area, located near Florida Bay at the southern extreme of the park. THE PHOTO TIP: For the best shots of either slow-moving creature, focus on the eyes. If the animal is too much in the shade for the eye to stand out—as is often the case with the darker-skinned alligator—add a flash. Remember that while the creatures might look sleepy, they can move—and snap—very quickly, so keep a healthy distance and obviously don't feed or poke them.   MOUNTAIN LIONS: BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK, Texas The mighty, solitary mountain lion is the king of the Texas desert The majestic mountain lion—also known as the cougar, panther, or puma regionally—is different from its African cousins in that it lacks a furry mane and a loud roar. But this fierce predator is no slouch! In this desert and mountain park in southwest Texas along the Rio Grande, the mountain lion is the definite lord of the manor—a top predator that feasts on deer, javelina, and other herbivores and keeps the whole ecosystem in check. THE PERFECT SPOT: Mountain lions roam throughout the park, including the Chihuahuan Desert and the Chisos Mountains, where they sometimes follow hiking trails. Each year there are about 150 sightings of the elusive wild cats, most of which occur along roadways and sometimes hiking trails, often around dawn or dusk. THE PHOTO TIP: Mountain lion sightings are rarer than sightings of the other animals on this list. If you do see one, you'll want to snap fast. Bring a high-res, auto-focus point-and-shoot—you won’t have time to be fumbling with lenses. You may have more luck snagging a photo of mountain lion tracks: Keep a look out for the distinctive four-toed paw prints which, unlike those of bears or coyotes, don't have a claw mark in front of each toe pad.   ROOSEVELT ELK: OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WashingtonThe largest unmanaged herd of Roosevelt Elk roams this park in the Pacific Northwest Named for Theodore Roosevelt, father of the American national parks system, the largest of the North American elk subspecies can be identified by its dark brown head and pale brown body; males also have light brown antlers. President Roosevelt actually had a direct hand in creating the Mt. Olympus National Monument in 1909 to protect the elk living on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. The area, which officially became a national park in 1938 (under the second President Roosevelt), is a wildly diverse landscape that includes temperate rainforests, sandy beaches, and glaciers. THE PERFECT SPOT: Head to the lowland Hoh Rain Forest, on the western side of the park, where elk like to graze for ferns, shrubs, and lichens grasses. THE PHOTO TIP: These elk tend to stay in herds of about 20, so you've got an excellent chance of getting a group shot with a wide-angle lens. If you do spot one that's alone or in a pair, those are most likely males.   PRONGHORN: WIND CAVE NATIONAL PARK, South DakotaIndigenous pronghorn wander the South Dakota plains Below ground, Wind Cave National Park shelters the fifth longest cave system in the world, with more than 136 miles of underground passages that have actually been mapped. Above these maze-like formations is a rich prairie ecosystem that plays home to the rare pronghorn—commonly known as the “pronghorn antelope” although it doesn’t technically classify as one. Labeled endangered in the 1920s, the pronghorn can reach speeds of up to 60 mph, making it the fastest land mammal in North America. THE PERFECT SPOT: These beauties can be spotted all over the park, but one of the easiest places to find them is the area immediately around the Elk Mountain campground. Chances are you won’t even have to wander far from your sleeping bag to see one. THE PHOTO TIP: Remember that pronghorn have excellent senses of hearing, smell, and sight—and run extremely quickly—so take pictures from afar. If your shutter happens to scare them into a sprint, pan your camera in time with the pronghorn while you click. This technique will often yield an interesting effect: an in-focus animal on a blurred background.   PRAIRIE DOGS: BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK, South Dakota Check out a thriving prairie dog town out in the South Dakota Badlands The Badlands is one of the most fossil-rich spots on the planet; its imposing layered rock formations have yielded the remains of massive ancient rhinoceroses, camels, and even dinosaurs. Now, the stars of the show are much smaller—and decidedly cuter. The highly social prairie dog lives in underground colonies, or "towns," that can include as many as 26 family members. THE PERFECT SPOT: Prairie dogs can be spotted along the park's main loop road. Just listen for the distinctive barking warning call that gave them their canine name. A particularly populated area is Roberts Prairie Dog Town, located five miles west of the Pinnacles entrance along Sage Creek Rim Road. THE PHOTO TIP: You may feel the urge to get up close and personal to snap that perfect prairie dog portrait—after all, they’re so furry and cuddly--but resist the impulse. These critters are extremely territorial and can deliver a painful bite if threatened.   BISON: YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho Spot majestic bison in one of America's most iconic parks Considered the largest land mammal in the United States, the American bison—also called the American buffalo—typically weighs in at 1,000-1,800 pounds, with some males tipping the scales at 2,000 pounds. The area now housing Yellowstone National Park is the only place in the continental U.S. where bison have continually lived since prehistoric times. Though the population dipped severely in the early-1900s, the park now has a healthy bison population that fluctuates between 2,300 and 4,500. THE PERFECT SPOT: Bison are often on the move and are seen in different areas of the park during different seasons. Since they eat mostly grasses, like wheat grass or blue grama, look for verdant fields for the best group shot opportunities. Check out the Lamar and Hayden Valleys; spots along the Madison, Firehole, and Gibbon Rivers; and in Gibbon Meadow. THE PHOTO TIP: Female bison give birth to one calf every year, usually in April or May, so visit in the spring if you want baby photos. Note that while bison may appear docile and slow, they can charge at up to 30 mph. Visitors are gored every year because they venture too near the animals when taking photos, so keep your distance.   BALD AND GOLDEN EAGLES: DENALI NATIONAL PARK, Alaska Both bald and golden eagles soar through Alaska's famous Denali Park Located in the heart of Alaska, Denali National Park contains the country’s highest point, Mount McKinley (Denali means “the high one” in the local Athabaskan language). The sprawling park is also home to two of the country’s most majestic birds of prey: the bald eagle and the no-less-striking golden eagle. Though there are more bald eagles in the northernmost state than in the lower forty-nine combined, the golden eagle is far more common here. In these parts, goldens outnumber balds by 70 percent. THE PERFECT SPOT: Bald eagles can be spotted on the south side of the Alaska Range, especially near water sources like lakes and streams. Golden eagles, which are migratory, can best be seen mid-March through September, before they head south for the winter. They usually build their nests on cliffs or rock outcroppings. THE PHOTO TIP: To best capture a soaring bird in flight, use an SLR camera and set it to continuous focus. As you follow the moving object, your camera will automatically refocus on your subject. Keep clicking, and there’s a good chance one of your shots will be a winner.   MOUNTAIN GOATS: GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MontanaThe stunning (and massive) all-white mountain goat is the official symbol of this Montana park Located on Montana’s northern border with Canada, Glacier National Park is a particularly rugged expanse of snow-capped peaks and untouched alpine meadows. With six mountains over 10,000 feet high, the area is a perfect habitat for the shaggy, white mountain goat. Weighing in at almost 300 pounds, the horned and bearded animal navigates the rocky terrain thanks to hooves that are embedded with excellent traction pads and sharp, slip-preventing dewclaws. THE PERFECT SPOT: Some of the best spots for catching mountain goats in summer and early fall include the appropriately titled Goat Lick Overlook along U.S. Highway 2 near Essex, and Logan Pass on the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road. THE PHOTO TIP: Photographing white objects, like mountain goats, can often lead to overexposure; too much light gets let into your camera’s sensor, making the object appear washed out. To avoid this common mistake, make sure to focus directly on the goat. On a point-and-shoot, hold down your shutter halfway, point at the white object, allow it to focus, and then snap your shot. Your backgrounds may end up appear slightly darker, but the portrait subject will look its best.   BATS: MAMMOTH CAVE NATIONAL PARK, Kentucky A variety of now-endangered bat species have flown around this Kentucky park's dark caves and forests for millions of years This unique national park has forests, rivers, and the world's longest discovered system of underground caves and caverns. At present, about 350 miles and five levels of below-ground passageways have been surveyed, but it's thought that there are hundreds of miles more to be explored. Naturally, these dark, damp caves and waterways are favorites of bats—gray, red, and brown varietals call the park home. THE PERFECT SPOT: While red bats can be spotted in the forest and rarely head underground, most of the other bat species keep mainly to the caves during the day. About 12 species live in Mammoth Cave, the park's largest cavern, though they can be quite difficult to spot.  Bats tend to also roost at cave entrances and in trees, so keep a look out at those spots at dusk. THE PHOTO TIP: Since you're most likely to spot the flying creatures at dusk or after, set your camera's ISO to around 600-800 to allow in more light. If you're inside the caves—some of which have lighting— don't use a flash.  Use a tripod for the best (read: non-blurry) pictures.   SEE MORE POPULAR CONTENT: 4 Common Reasons Airlines Lose Luggage 10 Best Affordable Beach Hotels 26 Stunning Ireland Photos 25 Most Photographed Places on Earth World's Most Amazing Hotel Pools

Beautiful Lakeside Drives

MAINE Moosehead Lake The coast gets all the glory, but Mainers love their lakes—especially Moosehead. This whole area is moose country (in fact, the shoreline looks like it's in the shape of a moose head), and while you may get a sighting from Rockwood Road, your chances are even better from the trillions of little side roads. They'll take you deeper into the woods and past ponds, where moose love to linger. Start at the water's southern tip in Greenville for the quintessential lake-town experience. Most of the action is on Pritham Avenue, where there's a bookshop, a place to rent kayaks and canoes (and get a pretty good coffee, surprisingly), and the Black Frog, a cool little restaurant on the shore and a tradition of customers taking a dip after a beer or two. During the day, you'll see kids jump off the nearby dock. From there, go north on Rockwood Road (Route 6/15), which follows the lake all the way up to the tiny town of Rockwood, where Birches Resort makes a good base for the drive (, from $72). Don't be put off by the word resort—this place was originally built in the 1930s as a hunting and fishing retreat, and it still has an old lodge-y feel. See the beautiful lakeside drives! NEW YORK Finger Lakes With all the wineries, the museums, the horse racing, etc., it's easy to forget what first drew visitors to this green slice of upstate New York: the 11 finger-shaped lakes. They're among the deepest and most scenic in the country—after all, this is the home of the so-called Grand Canyon of the East. Most people drive the more established highways along the points either in the north or south, but to really get into lake country you should weave around them instead. This will put you partly on Routes 5 and 20 (where you'll pass antiques shops, wineries, farms, and a drive-in theater), and partly on hilly country roads (all two-laners, some dirt) that will take you through the most scenic parts of the area. It's nice to start on the western side, where there's almost no development. Work your way over to Canandaigua Lake, where you'll pass through artsy little Naples, then drive over the hills to Keuka Lake, and follow the Keuka Lake wine trail, stopping at vineyards along the way. From there, drive to Watkins Glen then up scenic Route 90 (this is different from the busier Route 90) along Cayuga Lake, and on to Skaneateles, a town Northeasterners use as a summer getaway (Bill Clinton was a regular). If you want to take a breather, the Harbor Hotel in Watkins Glen is both grand and cozy (, from $129). NORTH CAROLINA Lake Lure Despite being the setting for Dirty Dancing, Lake Lure is nowhere near the Catskills. It actually sits in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, and just about every drive you take is gorgeous. The town of Chimney Rock Village (population: 113) provides an ideal entry point to Chimney Rock State Park, where you'll find some great views. Route 64/74 follows the southern and western edges of the lake and takes you through the Hickory Nut Gorge to Chimney Rock Village. For a look at the eastern and northern shores, follow Buffalo Shoals Road; it will eventually turn into Buffalo Creek Road, which goes past Bald Mountain Lake. The pricey resorts are popular with weekenders from Charlotte, but for the real experience, stay in one of the four cabins at the Grafton Lodge (, cabins from $105). WASHINGTON Lake Chelan When even Seattleites can't take the gray skies and drizzle anymore, they head three-and-a-half hours east to the sunny shores of Lake Chelan, in the North Cascades. The area has a little of everything: wineries, state parks, national forests, and a cool little town (Chelan) with restaurants, an ice cream shop, B&Bs, and a historic movie theater. Devote a day to exploring Stehekin, a town at the northern tip of the lake with 95 residents and no road access-you can only get there by ferry. There are two roads leading out of Chelan. Route 971 takes you along the less developed southern shore, eventually reaching Lake Chelan State Park and, farther north, Wenatchee National Forest. State Road 150 follows the northern shore, where you'll find marinas, beaches, and most of the area's wineries. A nice place to spend the night is the Chelan House B&B along Chelan's Riverwalk Trail (, from $130). But you'll want to hit the road early. About halfway up the lake on either side, the water narrows into a fjord-like gorge and the pavement stops. That's where the protected forest—and another world—begins.

5 Easy Overnight Adventures for Kids

As a boy in suburban Boston, Craig Nichols idolized Red Sox left-fielder Carl Yastrzemski—even choosing Yaz's No. 8 for his Little League uniform. That fandom reached new heights just after 6 a.m. one Saturday last March when Nichols, now a 51-year-old Little League coach, awoke in a sleeping bag directly beneath Yastrzemski's copper plaque in the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, N.Y. "We were sleeping on hallowed ground," says Nichols, whose son Ryan, 10, dozed nearby. "You know that when Yaz visits Cooperstown, he stands right where I slept." See 5 places where kids can spend the night. Nichols, along with 37 other fathers and Little League players from Westborough, Mass., was taking part in a Hall of Fame program called Extra Innings Overnights—basically, Night at the Museum with baseball uniforms. The program, offered five times a year, began at 6:45 p.m. on Friday, when the group, which included me and my three children, laid out sleeping bags in the Plaque Gallery. For the next two hours, we had the museum to ourselves, looking at exhibits including Curt Schilling's bloody sock and Lou Gehrig's locker (a Yankee!). After snacks and a movie (Rookie of the Year), the group bedded down in the plaque room, a long, soaring space with thinly carpeted alcoves. (Key advice: If you don't bring an air mattress, you'll envy those who do.) The trip was a bonding experience for all. The dads told stories about long-retired players; the boys sometimes roamed in packs, feeling like they owned the place—which, basically, they did. At lights-out, there was the usual horsing around, along with the 21st-century pastime of texting across the room. But at its core, the trip was a throwback to the old-fashioned pleasures of the father-son sleepover, where surviving for a night without the comforts of home—namely, Mom—lets each generation see the other in a new way. And hear each other: In the morning, the talk focused on the identity of the mysterious high-volume snorer. Our group left the Hall around 8 a.m. so the staff could clean up and reentered after 9 a.m.—the second day's admission is included in the program's cost. Driving home, I reflected on my biggest concern: how my 12-year-old daughter had fared as the sole female in the group. But as we pulled into the driveway, she asked the question every parent wants to hear at the end of a trip: "Can we do that again next year?" That's what I call a home run. Extra Innings Overnights, Baseball Hall of Fame, 888/425-5633,, tickets $40 adults and $50 children ages 7 to 12 (breakfast included).   4 More Action-Packed Overnights to Try With the Kids GEORGIA AQUARIUM, ATLANTAAquarium Sleepoversgeorgiaaquarium.orgFeatures: Animal encounters, behind-the-scenes tours, 3-D movie, and breakfast. Ages 7 to 14.Price: $96 ($72 for members). SAINT LOUIS SCIENCE CENTERFamily Science Camp-Insslsc.orgFeatures: Science or planetarium show, Omnimax movie, activities, pizza, and breakfast. Ages 6 and up.Price: $38 ($35 for members). CARNEGIE MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, PITTSBURGHOvernight Adventurescarnegiemnh.orgFeatures: Tours of Discovery Room, snack, and breakfast. Ages 6 to 14.Price: $40 per person. SPY MUSEUM, WASHINGTON, D.C.Operation Secret Slumberspymuseum.orgFeatures: Code breaking, disguise making, spy games, and breakfast. Ages 9 to 13.Price: $115 ($105 for members).   SEE MORE POPULAR CONTENT: 4 Most Common Reasons Airlines Lose Luggage Top 10 Most Shocking Mummies in the World 10 Coolest Small Towns in America 35 Brilliant Rainbows A Family Field Trip Around the World  


10 Gorgeous Pools You Won't Believe Are Public

Forget every drab, rectangular, over-chlorinated pool you knew as a child: We found 10 shimmering oases across the globe that come with pleasing aesthetics, funky shapes, and naturally sourced water, injecting some novelty into your traditional summer cooldown. Best of all, they're all wallet-friendly, so pack up your crew, practice your cannonball, and dive right in! See the slide show! Sydney, Australia For more than a century, Tasman Sea waves have crashed against—and into—the Bondi Baths, an Olympic-size pool that became the home of the Bondi Icebergs, a winter swimming club, in 1929. Because of its solid concrete construction, the pool is always slightly colder than the ocean, even though it uses the same water—you can follow the fluctuating temps on its Twitter feed. The public is welcome here, but locals who want to become Icebergs (i.e., earn their official stripes as winter swimmers) must log 75 swims here during what most would consider the "off-season" (when pool temps dip below 60ºF in wintry July). Casual visitors favor summertime dips, when the water warms to the high 70s by February. Upon emerging from the striking shoreside pool at the Icebergs, bathers enjoy the amenities of its modernist, beachy clubhouse complex, which includes a gourmet bistro, two bars, fitness facilities, and a 1,600-square-foot sundeck.Accessibility: Year-roundAffordability: Day pass for nonmembers $6Hours: Mon.–Fri., 6 a.m.–6:30 p.m., Sat.–Sun., 6:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Closed for cleaning every Thurs. 1 Notts Ave., Bondi Beach, 011-61/2-9130-3120; Vienna, Austria Perhaps "Krapfenwaldlbad" doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, but it happens to be the name of one of Vienna's loveliest neighborhoods—as well as its renowned park with four heated pools for swimmers, socializers, and families. First opened in 1923 and perched like a leisurely sentinel on a hill, the main pool has become a fixture in the city's summer social scene. Accordingly, amenities run the gamut from a restaurant and a bar to table tennis, soccer, beach volleyball, and a children's playground. While the pools themselves may be standard fare, their exclusive views over the entire city, vineyards, and, well, other bathers, are what make them exceptional.Accessibility: May 2–Sept.Affordability: Adult admission to the park, including pool access, $6.70Hours: Mon.–Fri., 9 a.m.–8 p.m.; Sat., Sun., and holidays, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Krapfenwaldgasse 65-73, Vienna, 011-43/1-320-1501; (German only, see above link for English) Copenhagen, Denmark Kastrup Søbad, a circular wooden pavilion in the Baltic Sea, captures the essence of Danish design with its clean lines and natural finish. Created in 2005, the "sea bath" rises up at the end of a 328-foot boardwalk that connects it to shore (where visitors will find showers and lockers) and spirals in a way that shields bathers from sea winds. The walls of the $1.3 million structure intentionally slope to provide a vantage point for admiring the three miles of beaches nearby. The swimming here is probably most enjoyed by those of hearty Scandinavian stock, given that the clear waters only reach the low 60s at their warmest. But it's a perfect place to experience hygge—an all-encompassing Danish term that means spending quality time with good friends—and it's only a seven-minute train trip from the heart of downtown.Accessibility: June–Sept.Affordability: FreeHours: 24 hours a day, June–Sept. 15; generally supervised from 11 a.m.–8 p.m., but check schedule for times. Amager Strandvej 301, Copenhagen, 011-45/3251-5135; Bath, England The Thermae Bath Spa taps into the same thermal springs that once soothed Roman conquerors in 43 A.D. From the naturally heated rooftop pool on the spa's New Royal Bath building, visitors can take in a panorama that includes the ornate towers of 17th-century Bath Abbey in the center of town. This building also houses the Minerva Bath, the largest and most futuristically stylized of the three on offer, with massage jets, a whirlpool, and a "lazy river." Here, as well as in the more intimate Cross Bath building (erected on a Celtic goddess-worshipping site), the mineral-rich water boils up out of the earth at 113ºF but is mechanically cooled to a comfortable 91ºF. While in town, it's worthwhile to check out the ruins in the nearby Roman Baths museum, where the spirits of those who soaked before you roam.Accessibility: Year-roundAffordability: Two-hour spa usage, including pool access, $40Hours:New Royal Bath, 9 a.m.–10 p.m.; Cross Bath, 10 a.m.–8 p.m.6–8 Hot Bath St., Bath, 011-44/1225-331-234; Montpellier, France Visitors to Montpellier's Piscine Olympique d'Antigone are simultaneously greeted by Antigone and Venus—that is, the Olympic-size lap pool and leisure pool—upon entering the modernist bi-level sports complex. Downstairs, Antigone hosts everything from lap sessions to sports matches—and some of France's elite Olympic athletes train here, if you're looking to bump into the water-polo team. Upstairs at Venus, bathers' diversions include a five-lane pool, a sun terrace beneath the retractable roof, a whirlpool, and the most chic waterslide you've ever seen (leave it to the French).Accessibility: Year-roundAffordability: Adult day pass $7Leisure pool hours: Mon.–Fri., 9 a.m.–9:30 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.–7:15 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.–1:15 p.m. and 3 p.m.–7:15 p.m. 195, Avenue Jacques Cartier, Montpellier, 011-33/4-67-15-63-00; (French only) Berlin, Germany Berliners clamber aboard the Badeschiff (literally, "bathing ship"), which floats southeast of this vibrant cultural hub's city center, in the Spree River. The 90-foot-long, seven-foot-deep, bright blue pool was created in May 2004 from a converted barge and is now open throughout the year. Come summer, yoga classes, concerts, and movie screenings lure hipsters here to hang out on the adjacent floating wood platform, at the cafe, and on the man-made beach. During the winter, a translucent shell protects swimmers, and a pair of saunas materializes alongside the pool.Accessibility: May–Sept., Nov.–Mar.Affordability: $6Hours: Summer, daily, 8 a.m.–12 a.m.; winter, $17 for three hours, opening times vary according to day. Eichenstrasse, 4, Berlin; Budapest, Hungary While the Gellért Thermal Baths buildingdates from 1918, records of the healing waters on-site date back to the 15th century. First opened with an offering of six thermal baths, the complex today is an expansive Eastern European respite decked out in intricate stonework and mosaic tiles on a grand scale. The effervescent swimming pool in the art-nouveau-style main hall is arguably the showstopper, sparkling 98 feet long under the double-height glass roof and inevitably inspiring fantasies of swimming in champagne. The rest of the building encompasses the original mineral-hot-spring baths, plus cold baths, saunas, a steam room, a spa, and two outdoor pools, including a 130-foot-long open-air wave pool.Accessibility: Indoor, year-round; outdoor, summertimeAffordability: Pools only from $20Hours: Daily, 6 a.m.–8 p.m. Kelenhegyi út 4, Budapest, 011-36/466-6166; Grindavík, Iceland The aptly named Blue Lagoon outside of Reykjavík draws more than 400,000 visitors a year to its 1.6 million gallons of approximately 100-degree seawater. Steam rises from these sky blue hot springs across a surreal landscape of black lava mounds, and bathers slather themselves with silica mud, precipitated from the spring water and known for its relaxing (and purported healing) properties. Formed in the 1970s as a by-product of the neighboring geothermal plant (after the plant used the hot water, it was led back to the lava field and formed the lagoon), the Blue Lagoon spawned a wellness center in 1999. With a restaurant, a spa, a dry sauna, and steam baths, the facility draws visitors from around the globe.Accessibility: Year-roundAffordability: Day pass $42Hours: Sept. 1–May 31, 10 a.m.–8 p.m.; June 1–Aug. 31, 9 a.m.–9 p.m. 240 Grindavík, 011-354/4-208-800;   Austin, Tex. The natural springs that feed the 1,000-foot-long Barton Springs Pool were once considered sacred by Native Americans, who believed in their healing powers. A dip in these waters is certainly rejuvenating, as is the time you'll spend lounging poolside on grassy knolls shaded by ancient oak and pecan trees in surrounding Zilker Metropolitan Park. The idyllic 355-acre green sprawl south of downtown is host to the annual Austin City Limits Music Festival and features Frisbee golf, playgrounds, and the Zilker Botanical Garden, which includes the Isamu Taniguchi Japanese Garden.Accessibility: Mar. 12–Jan. 24Affordability: Adults $3Hours: Apr.–Sept., 8 a.m.–10 p.m. 2100 Barton Springs Rd., Zilker Park, Austin, 512/867-3080;   Coral Gables, Fla. Like something out of a watercolor found at a Florida antiques show, Coral Gables Venetian Pool is a man-made, jade green, eight-foot-deep lagoon created in 1924 by the city's founding father, George Merrick. Drained every night and refilled with 820,000 gallons of spring water, the pool—listed on the National Register of Historic Places—is connected to a pair of waterfalls (one of which is 25 feet high!) and grottoes worthy of Michelangelo's eye. Hold court at the poolside cafe during the afternoons; as night descends, Venetian-inspired lampposts bestow a 1920s glamour on this secluded spot, but, sadly, moonlight canoodling is deterred by closing times that precede sunset.Accessibility: Year-roundAffordability: Day pass for nonresident adults $11Summer hours through Aug. 21, Mon.–Fri., 11 a.m.–6:30 p.m., Sat.–Sun., 10 a.m.–4:30 p.m.; Aug. 22–Oct. 31, closes weekdays at 5:30 p.m. 2701 De Soto Blvd., Coral Gables, 305/460-5306; SEE MORE POPULAR CONTENT: World's Most Amazing Hotel Pools Secret Beaches of North America 25 Most Photographed Places on Earth 10 Most Beautiful Churches 26 Stunning Ireland Photos